The db Dispatch
by James Bayley
A volatile week for global drinks: Trump’s tariffs shake trade routes, Rioja bucks the red wine trend and Champagne sharpens its labour standards. Plus, cocktail culture hits a new price peak in Dubai.
The red wine region defying the odds
As global wine consumption continues to dip and red wine sales stumble, Rioja is going against the grain. The Spanish DO saw modest growth in 2024 — up 0.6% in volume — thanks to resilient red wine sales and a surge in exports to key markets like the UK and US.
José Luis Lapuente, general manager of the DOCa Rioja, told db that “Rioja has maintained its position” by focusing on export growth and strong brand recognition. While domestic demand dropped, export markets helped the region outperform others in Spain, with UK sales up 12% and US up 17%.
Bourbon dodges a bullet in EU tariff war
In a rare moment of transatlantic pragmatism, the EU has removed Bourbon from its latest tariff list, sidestepping what could have become a full-blown trade war with the US. Brussels was preparing a 50% duty on American whiskey in retaliation for US steel and aluminium tariffs — until President Trump threatened to hit EU wine and spirits with a 200% levy.
Facing potential losses of up to €1.6 billion for European exporters, the EU pulled back. Industry groups on both sides breathed a sigh of relief. As DISCUS CEO Chris Swonger put it, “The US spirits sector has been the model of success for fair and reciprocal trade for decades.”
Champagne steps up on seasonal worker standards
As global scrutiny intensifies over working conditions in vineyards, Champagne is leading a proactive push to protect seasonal workers and uphold the region’s reputation. In 2024, Comité Champagne rolled out the “Together for the Champagne Harvest” initiative — co-developed with state authorities, growers and labour organisations.
From the launch of the contractor-compliance tool VitiArgos to daily harvest inspections led by the Marne Prefecture, the framework signals a shift towards greater transparency and accountability. “There is no such thing as zero risk,” said a Comité spokesperson, “but we are committed to continual improvement and safeguarding worker welfare.”
Cocktail culture’s most extravagant creations
From gold-dusted margaritas to diamond-studded martinis, the world’s most expensive cocktails are pushing the boundaries of luxury drinking. Dubai’s NAHATÉ bar recently unveiled the world’s priciest cocktail — served in a rare 1937 Baccarat glass and auctioned for over £32,000.
Other entries on the high-roller list include the Ritz Carlton Tokyo’s ‘Diamonds Are Forever’, which comes with a one-carat diamond, and London’s historic ‘Salvatore’s Legacy’, made with pre-French Revolution cognac. Opulence, it seems, is always in fashion — especially when it’s served over ice.
Reflections on the ‘Judgement of Düsseldorf’
The wine trade loves to argue over which bottles and regions are the very best, and db got tongues wagging at this year’s ProWein by pitting 12 star reds from five continents against each other.
In a newly released video interview, Patrick Schmitt MW reflects on the tasting’s more eye-catching results – proof that even the world of fine wine can still offer surprises.
For more exclusive reports, analysis and behind-the-bottle insight, head to thedrinksbusiness.com and stay ahead of the trade.