Does Natural Mean Better?

We automatically get that warm fuzzy feeling when we think of the word natural. Natural things come from the earth, so they must be good, right? Actually, no! If you think about it, poison ivy is about as natural as it comes, and you wouldn’t want to rub that all over your face.  Now, think of the word chemical.  Did it make you cringe?  Chemicals often make us think of scary substances crafted in mad scientist labs or the impossible-to-pronounce list of ingredients on the back of your bathroom cleaner.  The funny thing is that everything is a chemical, even water.  Water is just a naturally occurring chemical. Feeling better now?

Natural is a tough word to define. There is no consensus on what natural means in terms of products but generally accepted is the idea that natural means that the active ingredient comes from plants rather than a lab. The term isn’t regulated and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not actually say what’s in natural skin care products.  Non-toxic, is another term often seen on labels, isn’t regulated either and acts as a marketing tactic to make consumers feel like the product is safe. The designation of organic is a little different.  This typically refers to skincare products that use ingredients that are grown without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. Organic is regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and products can get different labels based on the definitions below:

• USDA Organic Seal: To display the USDA Organic Seal, a product must be made with at least 95% organic agricultural ingredients.
• “Organic” or “100% organic”: Products that say this may or may not bear the USDA Organic Seal. But they do have to display the name and address of the agency that certified their organic status.
• “Made with organic ingredients”: Any product labeled with this term must be made with at least 70% organic ingredients.

When patients ask me for a chemical-free product, the answer is, “Not possible.”  I tell them to change their mindset and accept that all ingredients are chemicals. It’s hard when some people have gotten used to the word chemical having such a negative vibe.  So this is what I tell them--Think about the word chemical as just a neutral term, and two main types of chemicals exist: 1. Natural and 2. Synthetic.  Natural and synthetic chemicals can be beneficial or harmful based on their own unique characteristics.  For example, the oil in poison ivy, known as urushiol, is a natural chemical. But it isn’t so great for the skin. On the other hand, hyaluronic acid, a synthetic ingredient, has amazing moisturizing properties.  It is possible to like and see the value in both natural and synthetic ingredients, or should I say chemicals? 

The trend toward clean, responsible products has renewed interest in natural products, but keep in mind that natural does not mean something is more effective, safer to treat your skin, or better for the environment.  Moreover, your idea of natural may not be exactly the manufacturer’s definition.  The reality is that sometimes synthetic ingredients may actually be safer and more effective than their natural counterparts. When synthetic, you can make a product free of impurities, control its concentration, and extend its shelf life.  Take, for example, retinol. Retinol is a synthetic form of vitamin A known for its anti-aging benefits and a staple for a skincare routine. 

As for essential oils, everyone goes for something natural on the skin; they can also not be natural in the way you think they are. Essential oils are often classified as safe, natural products to moisturize the skin or treat conditions like psoriasis or eczema.  However, the FDA does not regulate essential oils and they can vary with concentration. Some can be highly potent, while others may be diluted with fillers. Some essential oils may be processed with chemicals or exposed to pesticides during the growing process, making their way into the final product.  One study showed a link between lavender and tea tree oil use and boys with abnormal breast growth. What might be even more shocking is that some essentials have been shown to contain carcinogenic (cancer-causing) ingredients. 

Natural chemicals can also have unintended consequences. Often, patients may use oil for anti-aging, but the oil is occlusive and causes a secondary problem: acne. Some patients may also develop contact dermatitis (remember that poison ivy?)  or an allergy to a natural ingredient. So, no.  Natural isn’t always better. It’s just another option to explore. 

Trotter’s Take:  Make the word chemical neutral in your mind and start looking at synthetic or natural ingredients on a more individual level to decide if they are right for you. Try not to let the fact that it is natural just make you feel better. Make sure the chemicals, whether natural or synthetic, are actually going to make your skin better.