How the humble Indian Dal could save the planet

Growing up in a southern Indian household, I remember how Dal, a thick, savory soup like dish, was staple food. In fact, in my community of Konkani people, the signature dish is “Dalitoy”, a mildly spiced preparation of pigeon pea. No festival, marriage or important meal is complete without this dish being served. And nothing reminds a Konkani of home like the aroma of freshly cooked Dalitoy. The same applies to almost every community in India, each with their favorite Dal dish.

When I started traveling internationally for work, and eventually relocated to the USA, I remember being surprised at how much meat was eaten at every meal. And despite my fondness for the occasional meat, fish, or poultry dish, I always craved my traditional meal of Dal, rice and vegetables. Often, my co-workers and other people I met would ask me how we got our protein if we did not eat meat every day. It was inconceivable for people raised on a diet of meat that a vegetarian or vegan meal could be tasty, satiating, and nutritious. I could understand their confusion because in most restaurants the only vegetarian or vegan option was a salad, usually comprising raw vegetables and leaves. When aware of Indian food, most people knew about chicken tikka masala or some other meat dish, but rarely thought of Dal as a main source of protein.

Dal, Pulses and Legumes - SuperFood

Dal is the Indian name for split pulses, which are dried edible seeds from a family of plants called legumes. Examples of legumes include soy, peanuts (or groundnuts), fresh peas, green beans, and many more familiar plants. But what sets apart pulses among legumes is their low-fat and high-protein content. Pulses have been a traditional source of food worldwide for thousands of years. They include lentils, pigeon peas, garbanzo beans (chickpeas), etc. In India, they are mostly consumed in the form of Dal, the cooking of which has been raised to an art form. They are cooked into soupy, spiced dishes, usually accompanied by rice or roti (Indian bread), powdered into flour, fried as snacks, or fermented in a batter to make dosas (thin pancakes) or idlis (steamed rice cakes). According to one estimate, there are over 100 different types of Dals available. A search for “Dal recipes” on Google throws up over 180 million results. And any Indian will tell you that the most delicious way to get plant protein is through a cup of Dal. 

Apart from great taste, Dals are an excellent source of plant-based nutrition. According to experts, Pulses are a rich source of dietary fiber for gut health, protein, complex carbohydrates for satiety, and a variety of essential minerals. All this comes at a very affordable price point and is easy to store in a pantry for years in its dried form. Compare this to meats which require refrigeration or freezing and tend to be an expensive luxury for all but the wealthiest communities in the world. 

While pulses are a familiar feature at mealtime in India, the Middle East, and parts of Africa, they are less commonly consumed in the West in their natural form. If you live in the USA, you have probably had baked beans from a can, which is a form of pulse. What many people may not know is that the commonly available vegetarian or bean burger is made from pulses, and now some meat alternatives are being made from engineered pea protein. In recent years I have seen other forms of pulses grow in popularity with the spread of Mediterranean cuisine (Hummus from Chickpeas) and Mexican food with their varieties of bean dishes. Though Dals are always seen in Indian restaurants, they are yet to breakthrough into mainstream society. 

Pulses and the Environment

Where pulses stand out is their lower environmental impact per gram of protein compared to meats, eggs, and dairy products. Whether you look at Greenhouse gas emissions or water usage, Pulses cause far less damage to the planet compared to animal proteins. In fact, a simple back of the envelope calculation indicates that if everyone replaced one of their meat entrées with a Dal or Pulse-based dish, just once a week, it could reduce millions of acres of farmland, liters of water, and tons of carbon emissions. Add to that, the improved productivity of farms that intercrop with pulses, leguminous plants that fix nitrogen in the soil, naturally fertilizing it. 

Unfortunately, the global per capita consumption of pulses has declined in the past 50 years, while meat consumption has risen drastically. This is driven by a combination of consumer taste preferences, lack of a strong global commodity market for pulses, and low support from governments who prioritize carbohydrate rich grains to maximize calories. Also, there is a belief that plant-based proteins are inferior in nutrition or less easy to digest than animal proteins. While this is partially true, it can be addressed by consuming a wide variety of pulses and legumes, and cooking them in ways that improve digestibility. Of course, taste and mouthfeel are a matter of personal preference, but I challenge anyone to eat a well-made "Dal Makhani" and not be delighted by the burst of flavors that it provides.

Popularizing Pulses

What would it take to increase the share of pulses in the global diet, and make it a potent weapon in our fight against climate change and land degradation? It begins with farmers. They need all the support they can get to ensure that adding pulses to their crop mix will be profitable. This requires government policies that add pulses to the list of price supported or subsidized crops. Efficient commodity markets will create a stable and predictable price band for long-term planning. Associations and organizations like Pulses.org can help with consumer, farmer, and trade education. The UN declared 2016 as the International Year of Pulses, partially leading to more investor interest in plant protein startups in recent years.

Another opportunity is to enrol celebrity chefs and the restaurant trade. Almost every cooking show I see celebrates meat as the main entrée. What if we could convince them to also show how pulses, lentils and other legumes could be used to produce a tasty, nutritious, and satiating meal. What if we could get mainstream restaurant chains to introduce a Dal or Pulse recipe (some like Chipotle already do with their vegan bowl). It will not happen overnight, but just as chicken meat overtook beef as America’s favorite protein, it is not impossible for pulses to contribute 5 – 10% of the future mix.

The Planet on your Plate

I am often asked by people - what can they do to help fight climate change, water scarcity, and food security? Now you know the answer is a simple step that we can all take in our homes. The next time you want to make a difference to the planet, try a bowl of the humble Indian Dal. I can promise that you will love it!