The Most Remarkable City in the World

Rio de Janeiro is the most remarkable city in the world right now. Faced with an onslaught of real challenges and awful publicity before the Olympics, the city nonetheless possesses a number of stunning characteristics that make it both, a truly exceptional city and one that also reflects features found in other cities of its size and prominence. A good overview of this unique city is found here: http://bit.ly/2a0sx56 I have just returned from my fourth—and longest—visit to Rio de Janeiro and in this photo essay, I highlight five such notable characteristics: natural beauty, hidden gems, energy of people, favelas as solutions, and a unique ensemble.

1a. Natural Beauty: The first thing that strikes one about Rio de Janeiro is its stunning natural setting. Four of these of these are Pão de Açúcar [i.e. Sugar Loaf, foreground right], Cristo Redentor on Corcovado mountain [i.e. Christ the Redeemer, background right], and Copacabana beach [background left], all of which are surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and Baía de Guanabara [i.e. Guanabara Bay, on the right]: http://bit.ly/2a8YgAx  This mix of mountains, hills, beaches and water is stunning, with some of the best views of the city being from the favelas [i.e. informal settlements] on the hillsides.

1b. Natural Beauty: Rio de Janeiro embraces and engages with its natural beauty in unique and striking ways. For example, at Copacabana beach there is a stunning view of Sugar Loaf and other hills in the background. The simple yet beautiful paving pattern on the promenade by the beach is inspired by traditional Portuguese patterns representing ocean waves. On an everyday basis, this public space is primarily a setting for social interaction among residents. More information on landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx’s design for Copacabana beach can be found here: http://bit.ly/29T3eAr

2a. Hidden Gems: Like many cities of its size [metropolitan population 12 million], Rio de Janeiro faces challenges such as traffic and pollution. In the midst of its hustle and bustle, one discovers a multitude of hidden gems, many of which are free and open to the public. For example, the Parque das Ruínas is a public park with an art gallery built around the ruins of a mansion in the Santa Teresa neighborhood. It is a venue for live outdoor performances: http://bit.ly/29ODAv1

2b. Hidden Gems: Another hidden gem is the landscaped courtyard of the Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro [UFRJ] – Praia Vermelha campus, which is often filled with students, faculty, staff and visitors. UFRJ is the largest federal university in the country and has operated continuously since 1792. More information about this public university can be found here: http://bit.ly/2agA9T5

3a. Energy of People: While the political and corporate leadership of Brazil may be in crisis, people keep on making and remaking their lives and their cities. The public square, Praça XV de Novembro, is located in the historical center of Rio de Janeiro and is flanked by the Palácio Tiradentes, the seat of the Legislative Assembly of Rio de Janeiro and the Paço Imperial, which was built in the 18th century to serve as residence for the Portuguese governors of colonial Brazil. Now, people are creating their own histories of the present by appropriating the space regularly for skateboarding, street vending and other forms of social interaction: http://bit.ly/2aunmbX 

3b. Energy of People: While walking along Rua das Laranjeiras in Rio de Janeiro, one comes across yet another of one of the hundreds of examples of everyday grassroots interventions in the city: muro de gentileza [i.e. wall of kindness]. First invented in Iran and a brilliant example of south-to-south learning [http://bit.ly/29UNKcZ], the wall of kindness takes a private wall and makes it a shared space. Here, one sees clothes, books and other items [including sometimes food] donated freely for people—usually meant for the poor—to take as they please: http://glo.bo/29M3kfL

4a. Favelas as Solutions: The favelas [i.e. informal settlements] of Rio de Janeiro are solutions, not problems. They fulfill the urgent need for shelter and infrastructure that neither the government, nor the private sector, nor the non-profit sector is able to provide. What is also remarkable is that since the 1800s, people have been designing, building and maintaining these mini-cities with no professional training or usual resources. Thus, while the favelas—such as Rocinha [in the image]—are confronted with serious problems, they are also exemplars of great resourcefulness and innovation. A history of Brazil’s first favela, Morro do Providencia, can be found here: http://bit.ly/2atmWm4

4b. Favelas as Solutions: Rio de Janeiro’s favelas, such as Maré, are also the locus of resident organization and mobilization. One example is the Observatório de Favelas, which connects universities and research institutions to favelas and engages favela residents directly in the production, dissemination and application of knowledge. A network of students who grew up and continue to live in favelas leads the Observatório’s research efforts, building more accurate statistical databases, shaping more appropriate public policies, and working with media to disseminate this information to the public. An excellent article on residents of the Vila Autódromo favela organizing and fighting for their housing rights can be found here: http://bit.ly/29Te2CJ

5a. Unique Ensemble: What makes Rio de Janeiro the city that it is the unique—and evolving—assemblage of natural beauty, hidden gems, energy of people, favelas as solutions, and more. In this image, for example, one sees the ensemble of the beautifully redesigned new wing of the Museu de Arte do Rio [http://bit.ly/29U1YkA], from where this photograph is taken, with the older Palacete Dom João on the left, the Praça Mauá square in the foreground with the tracks of the new light rail line running through it, new Museu do Amanhã by Santiago Calatrava which is the white structure in the background, and finally the old port and the bridge to Niteroi in the far background. The redevelopment of the Porto Maravilha, which is not without controversy, can be found in this video: http://bit.ly/29UTe7N

5b. Unique Ensemble: Rio de Janeiro is a large, growing and complex city with many contradictions. At the same time what is truly remarkable about it is the incredible resilience and creativity of its residents. Even with the political scandals and economic recession, life goes on, albeit under extremely difficult conditions. My primary argument in this photo-essay is to understand the city in its amazing fullness and its multifaceted beauty by reaching beyond over-simplified urban narratives. Yes, in the five ways I’ve captured and much more, Rio is truly one of the most beautiful cities in the world: http://bit.ly/29U01EI