Until today, wool is considered as the most recycled fiber in the apparel industry. Despite wool recycling is a widespread technique since the early 1800s, no one ever calculated up to how many times it can be done exactly.
Manteco, an Italian high-quality textile manufacturer committed to circular economy practices, and University of Leeds, carried ahead a study that investigated on this topic.
Until today, wool is considered as the most recycled fiber in the apparel industry. Despite wool recycling is a widespread technique since the early 1800s, no one ever calculated up to how many times it can be done exactly.
After carrying ahead this study, published in the Journal of Cleaner Engineering, they explained how often they can do it.
The study revealed that, provided the wool fibers maintain a minimum length of 20 mm, they can be recycled up to a maximum of six times through the carding process. However, when the fibers become too short for spinning, they can still be recycled in open-loop systems, being transformed into raw materials for other sectors or into lower-quality textile products. Such a result points out how versatile wool is in reducing waste and extending its product lifecycles.
The recyclability of wool fibers strongly depends on the initial fiber length, fabric structure, and recycling machine settings, while the ability of wool fibers to withstand multiple recycling processes largely depends on their initial length. For instance, shorter wool fibers like merino, compared to longer cross-bred wool fibers, are more resistant to fiber breakage during mechanical recycling.
The structure of the wool fabric, either knitted or woven, plays a significant role in determining recyclability. Knitted fabrics tend to experience less fiber breakage than woven fabrics, leading to better fiber retention during the recycling process. Essentially, recycling post-consumer knitted garments yields better results in terms of quality retention.
Not all wool recycling systems are the same. Different machines and configurations produce different results for recycled fibers. The know-how of wool recyclers, including machine settings and processing techniques, can significantly impact fiber properties and the environmental footprint of the recycling process.
The study has also demonstrated that mechanical recycling has a minimal impact on the tensile strength of wool fibers. Tests indicated that, after being recycled, wool fibers retain over 92% of their strength compared to their initial values (essentially unchanged), confirming the durability and quality of the recycled material.
“Wool is already the most recycled fiber in the apparel industry, and this study highlights its immense potential to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry. Thanks to its ability to be recycled multiple times, wool is a crucial resource for adopting circular economy models, contributing to the creation of sustainable products without compromising quality,” commented Marco Mantellassi, co-CEO, Manteco.
“They commonly believe that wool fabrics can only be mechanically recycled once in a closed loop before they need to be discarded, but our research has shown the potential of knitted wool fabrics to be recycled in a closed loop multiple times, depending on the conditions. Such in-depth research provides useful insights for optimizing production and could add significant value to circular supply chains,” added Stephen Russell and Mary Glasper from the University of Leeds.
Manteco is a family-run business founded in 1943 and produces 100% in Tuscany, in a specialized, zero-kilometer, fully traced, transparent and certified supply chain called MSystem.
This network involves more than 56 partner textile companies that follow the Supply Chain Commitment Charter drawn up by Manteco.
Manteco is particularly keen about circular fashion, which is why it has developed several projects like, for instance, a Zero-Waste system to recover all industrial wool waste from production processes, a Sustainable Design philosophy to create durable and recyclable wool fabrics, along with other projects that recycle wool fabric waste produced during the garment making phase, along with unsold or second-grade wool garments.
The company is also involved in other projects meant to spread a circular economy culture and encourage the use of high-quality recycled wool fabrics.
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