Approach and Philosophy of On baking technology

On Baking
A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS | FOURTH EDITION
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Revel for On Baking Fourth Edition
New for this edition, On Baking is
now available in Revel—an engag-
ing, seamless, digital learning experi-
ence. The instruction, practice, and
assessments provided are based on
learning science. The assignability
and tracking tools in Revel let you
gauge your students’ understanding
and engagement in and out of the
classroom. This visibility into student
performance, paired with your stu-
dents’ renewed energy for the mate-
rial, empowers you to spend your
class time on the meaningful instruc-
tion that only you can deliver. For
more details, see the Comprehensive
Teaching and Learning Package
page ix.
Approach and Philosophy of
On Baking
This new fourth edition of On Baking: A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals
follows the model established in our previous editions, which have prepared thousands
of students for successful careers in the baking and pastry arts by building a strong foun-
dation based upon proven techniques. On Baking focuses on learning the hows and
whys of baking. Each section starts with general procedures, highlighting fundamental
principles and skills, and then presents specific applications and sample recipes or for-
mulas, as they are called in the bakeshop. Core baking and pastry principles are explained
as the background for learning proper techniques. Once mastered, these techniques can
be used to prepare a wide array of baked goods, pastries and confections. The baking
and pastry arts are shown in a cultural and historical context as well, so that students
understand how different techniques and flavor profiles developed.
Chapters are grouped into four areas essential to a well-rounded baking and pastry
professional:
❶ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field with material
on culinary and baking history, food safety, tools, ingredients and baking science.
❷ Breads Five chapters focus on breadmaking, from basic quickbreads to yeast breads
and advanced artisan specialties such as sourdough breads and laminated doughs.
❸ Desserts and Pastries Fundamental baking techniques used in the preparation of
cookies, pies, creams, custards, cakes and frozen desserts are explained and then
demonstrated with a wide range of formulas for components and finished products.
A chapter on healthy baking and special dietary needs concludes this section.
❹ Advanced Pastry Work Chapters on tortes and entremets, petits fours, chocolate,
plated desserts, sugar work and confections demonstrate advanced concepts and
techniques.
UPDATES
◾ Three new chapters expand coverage of yeast breads, cake assembly and sugar work.
◾
More than 375 new photographs and illustrations provide clear representations of
core preparations that are the foundation of any good baking textbook.
◾
Over 60 new formulas and variations reflect up-to-the-minute trends in bakeries and
foodservice operations.
◾
New step-by-step photographs emphasize stages in making key products such as
yeast and sourdough breads, doughnuts, laminated dough, cake batters and pie crust,
as well as cake decorating, torte assembly and advanced confectionery techniques.
◾
New photographs illustrate contemporary plate presentation styles to help stu-
dents in their mastery of plating and presentation.
◾ Content revisions and updates were written to improve readability and align proce-
dures, photos and recipes more closely.
◾
Content updates reflect current trends in the world of baking and pastry, such as the
interest in food safety, gluten-free baking, use of whole grains, plant-based foods and
advanced bread, pastry and confectionary techniques.
◾ Enhancedfoodsciencecoverage highlights the functions of ingredients with additional
information on flavor wheels.
◾
Expanded tables and troubleshooting content is included throughout the text to
help students master fundamental bakeshop items such as puff pastry, pies, éclair
paste and pastry cream.
ii

iii
Visual Guide
Easy to navigate, On Baking is divided into bite-sized subsections to optimize
the learning process. We invite you to explore this new edition with the follow-
ing guided tour through the features included.
120 C H A P T E R F I V E
After studying this chapter,
you will be able to:
▶ describe and use various mixing
methods, and explain the importance
of gluten and moisture in mixing
▶ describe the three primary forms of
heat transfer and explain how heat
affects batters and doughs
▶ describe the various baking and cook-
ing methods employed in the bakeshop
▶ describe the stages of the baking process
▶ explain the science of taste and basic
flavor principles
▶ apply the science of taste and basic
flavor principles
B
aking is a science that relies upon chemistry and the physics of heat transfer, plus
a dash of microbiology. The actions that take place for a mixture of flour, fat
and water to become a finished product are a function of scientific principles.
Understanding this allows you to select ingredients and work with formulas more easily.
Though a degree in chemistry or physics is not a prerequisite for working in the bake-
shop, a good understanding of the everyday science of the kitchen is fundamental to
success. You will find different aspects of the principles discussed in this chapter demon-
strated and expanded upon throughout this text.
MIXING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES
The first step in the production of breads, pastries and other bakeshop products is the
measuring of ingredients as discussed in Chapter 4, Mise en Place. Once measured,
ingredients must be mixed or combined correctly in order to achieve the desired results.
The techniques used to mix or combine ingredients affect the baked good’s final volume,
appearance and texture. Mixing assists with the following:
▪
▪ Even distribution of dry and liquid ingredients.
▪
▪ Breakdown of fats and liquids, causing them to blend or emulsify. Fats do not
readily combine with water. Various mixing methods help fats to emulsify with
liquids into a homogenous mixture (a mixture that is consistent throughout).
▪
▪ Activation of the proteins in wheat flour, causing the formation of the elastic
structure called gluten. Gluten development is affected by factors including
mixing technique, fat, moisture, formula type and ingredients.
▪
▪ Incorporation of air into a mixture (aeration) to help it rise and develop a light
texture when baked.
Correctly employing a variety of different mixing methods can accomplish many things
with only a few basic ingredients. (See Table 5.1.) For example, mixing methods such
as blending, folding, sifting and stirring ensure that ingredients are properly combined.
Cutting also combines ingredients, in this case solid fat and dry ingredients, in a specific
way to ensure that a dough bakes into a flaky crust or cookie. Beating, creaming,
kneading and whipping incorporate air into a batter, dough or foam during mixing.
Pockets of air (air cells) gives baked goods their final texture after baking. A buttery
cake batter or tender sandwich bread has many tiny, even air cells, which give a slice of
the cake or bread a uniform fine texture or crumb. These air cells are created exclusively
during the mixing process.
Normally, fats do not blend with water. Beating, blending, creaming, kneading and
stirring break up fats into tiny particles, allowing them to blend with liquids into a homog-
enous mixture. Learn the difference in the mixing techniques described in Table 5.1,
then use the designated method with the appropriate equipment or tool to ensure a
good-quality finished product. Subsequent chapters in this book explore how using these
mixing techniques, combined with various production methods and ingredients, creates
a variety of distinct baked items.
The Importance of Gluten
Gluten is the tough, rubbery network of proteins created when wheat flour is mixed with
liquids. Gluten helps make country bread chewy and pound cake light and tender. Flour
does not contain gluten; only a dough or batter can contain gluten. Gluten is formed
when the proteins glutenin and gliadin in wheat flour are moistened or hydrated during
the mixing process.
Gluten development is affected by a number of factors, including mixing technique
and the presence of fat and moisture. Generally, the longer a substance is mixed, the
emulsify to combine a fat and a liquid into a
homogeneous mixture by properly blending
ingredients
aerate to incorporate air into a mixture
through sifting and mixing; to whip air into
a mixture to lighten it, such as beating egg
whites to a foam
crumb the interior of bread or cake; may be
elastic, aerated, fine or coarse grained
The fine crumb in sandwich bread.
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Chapter Introduction
▲
Introductory paragraphs summarize
the main themes in each chapter
and help reinforce topics.
Margin Definitions
▲
Important terms are
defined in margin notes
to help with retention
of new vocabulary and
terminology.
flavor principles
flavor principles
B
▪
▪
▪
▪
texture when baked.
ingredients
whites to a foam
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flavor principles
flavor principles
B
▪
▪
▪
▪
texture when baked.
when the proteins glutenin and gliadin in wheat flour are moistened or hydrated during
the mixing process.
Gluten development is affected by a number of factors, including mixing technique
and the presence of fat and moisture. Generally, the longer a substance is mixed, the
ingredients
whites to a foam
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Safety Alerts
Brief notes highlight safety
issues and stress the impor-
tance of incorporating food
safety and sanitation into
regular kitchen activities.
P R O F E S S I O N A L I S M A N D F O O D S A F E T Y 15
Proper cleaning procedures prevent cross-contamination. The following steps can
help kitchen staff decrease the risk of an illness being spread by poor personal hygiene:
▪
▪ Wash hands frequently and thoroughly. Gloves are not a substitute for proper
hand washing.
▪
▪ Wash hands after using cell phones, tablet and laptop computers, shared pens or
pencils and other objects that can harbor harmful bacteria and microorganisms.
▪
▪ Keep fingernails short, clean and neat. Do not bite nails or wear nail polish,
which poses a chemical contamination hazard.
▪
▪ Keep cuts or wounds antiseptically bandaged. An injured hand should also be
covered with a disposable glove.
▪
▪ Bathe daily, or more often if required.
▪
▪ Keep hair clean and restrained.
▪
▪ Wear work clothes that are clean and neat. Avoid wearing jewelry or watches.
▪
▪ Do not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in food preparation areas.
Safety Alert
Single-Use Gloves
Wearing clean single-use disposable
gloves is the best way to avoid bare hand
contact with ready-to-eat foods such as
pies and sandwiches, or when garnishing
or portioning baked goods such as cook-
ies, cakes or brownies.
Procedure for Proper Hand Washing
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▲
168 C H A P T E R S E V E N
B
read making dates back to ancient times. Over the centuries, bakers have learned
to manipulate the basic ingredients—flour, water, salt and leavening—to produce
a vast variety of breads. Thin-crusted baguettes, tender Parker House rolls, crisp
flatbreads and chewy bagels are created by careful selection and handling of the same key
ingredients. A renewed interest in the traditional craft of baking has seen many new artisan
bread bakeries open in recent years. Customers are demanding, and more restaurants are
serving, exciting bread assortments at every meal. Although few baked goods intimidate
novice bakers as much as yeast breads, few are actually as forgiving to prepare. By master-
ing basic procedures and techniques, bakers and pastry chefs can offer their customers
delicious, freshly-baked goods made with yeast.
We divide yeast breads into three major categories: basic lean doughs, naturally-
leavened and rye breads, and rich doughs. Basic lean doughs, such as those used to make
crusty French and Italian breads, rolls and sandwich loaves, contain little or no sugar
or fat. Such doughs are the focus of this chapter. Naturally-leavened and rye breads are
made from lean doughs that require special handling to bring out their unique flavor.
They are discussed in Chapter 8, Preferments and Natural Starters. Rich doughs, such as
brioche and challah doughs, contain significantly more sugar and fat than lean doughs.
Rich doughs bake into softer products with a tender crust and interior crumb. These are
discussed in Chapter 9, Enriched Yeast Breads. A specific type of rich, flaky dough is made
by incorporating layers of fat and flour, referred to as lamination. This dough is covered in
Chapter 10, Laminated Doughs.
This chapter covers in detail the basic production techniques for making lean doughs
and basic yeast bread products. The principles in this chapter apply to working with all
types of yeast-raised products, including naturally leavened sourdough breads discussed in
Chapter 8, Preferments and Natural Starters. To set yourself up for success, you may want
to reread the discussion of the function of ingredients in Chapter 3, Bakeshop Ingredients,
before beginning this chapter.
YEAST
Yeast breads are made from dough prepared with yeast. Under the right conditions, yeast
acts as a leavener in dough, causing it to rise and become less dense. Yeast is a living
organism, a one-celled fungus. It is a biological leavening agent, as opposed to a chemi-
cal leavening agent. Chemical leavening agents are discussed in Chapter 6, Quick Breads.
Various strains of yeast are present virtually everywhere. Yeast feeds on carbohydrates
present in the starches and sugars in bread dough, converting them to carbon dioxide
and ethanol, an alcohol, in a process known as fermentation:
Yeast 1 Carbohydrates 5 Alcohol 1 Carbon Dioxide
When yeast releases carbon dioxide gas during bread making, the gas becomes
trapped in the dough’s gluten network. (See Chapter 5, Principles of Baking, page 119.)
The trapped gas leavens the bread, providing the desired rise and texture. The small
amount of alcohol produced by fermentation evaporates during baking.
Temperature, Moisture and Salt
As with most living things, yeast is very sensitive to temperature and moisture. It prefers
temperatures between 75°F and 95°F (24°C and 35°C). At temperatures below 34°F (2°C),
fermentation the process by which yeast
converts starch and sugar into alcohol and
carbon dioxide; it also refers to the time that
yeast dough is left to rise—that is, the time
it takes for carbon dioxide gas cells to form
and become trapped in the gluten network
▶ select and use yeast properly
▶ describe and carry out the 10 stages
involved in yeast bread production
▶ prepare a variety of yeast breads,
bagels, flatbreads, and other bread
varieties
▶ identify the qualities of well-crafted
bread
▲
Learning Objectives
Each chapter begins with clearly
stated objectives that focus on
what students can achieve by
completing the material.

Product Identification
▲
Hundreds of original photographs that identify
ingredients, tools and equipment are provided.
Written descriptions explore a huge variety of
foods, such as fruits, sugars, nuts and chocolates, as
well as portioning tools, cookware and bakeware.
iv
Procedures for …
Featured procedures for doing a specific technique
include step-by-step instructions and photographs
of various stages in preparing ingredients or ex-
ecuting a technique. These summaries encourage
proper mise en place and organization.
▲
blind. To help crusts retain their shape, bakers may prick small holes in the pie shell
dough with a fork or paring knife, a technique known as docking, before baking. The
unbaked pie shell should be lined with parchment paper or greased aluminum foil
(greased side down) and filled with pie (baking) weights, dry raw rice or dried beans. An
empty pie or tart pan may be used as a baking weight when making blind-baked pie or
tart shells. (Weights are needed to keep the sides of the pie or tart shell from collapsing.)
Bake the pie shell at 350°F (180°C) until the crust has set so it will not puff up. This typi-
cally takes 10–15 minutes or longer, depending on the size of the pan and the thickness
of the dough. After the crust is set, remove the weights, dock the dough again if needed
and return the shell to the oven to finish baking for approximately 10–15 minutes more.
Note that the rice or beans may be reused several times for future pies or tarts, but should
not be cooked and consumed.
To help retain crispness once filled, the crust may be coated with a thin layer of egg
wash during the final minutes of baking. A baked crust can also be brushed with a thin
layer of caramel or melted chocolate for the same effect. Unfilled baked crusts can be
stored at room temperature 2–3 days, or wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen as long as
3 months.
dough or crust to allow steam to escape and
to prevent the dough from rising when baked
Placing a second tartlet pan on top of the
dough to prevent it from puffing as it bakes.
❶ Line the pie or tart pan or ring mold
with dough. Dock the dough with a fork,
if desired. Chill for 1 hour to maintain the
shape during baking. Cut a piece of parch-
ment paper into a round that is slightly
larger than the pan. Using scissors, cut
the edge of the paper into ½-inch-
(1.2-centimeter-) wide strips the depth of
the pan so that it will fit into the shell.
❷ Press the parchment paper against the
walls of the shell, allowing a portion of it
to extend above the pan. Fill the pan with
pie weights, raw rice or dried beans. Bake
the weighted crust at 350°F (180°C) for
10–15 minutes.
❸ Lift off the paper to remove the weights.
Dock the crust with a fork and return it
to the oven. Bake until golden brown,
approximately 10–15 minutes. Cool, then
fill as desired.
Procedure for Blind Baking a Pie or Tart Shell
a shallow rim on only one side; this makes it easy to
making cookies, bright, shiny baking sheets promote
pans may be used when baking bread and pastries
allow more air to come in direct contact with the
Adjustable frames, called pan extenders, made from s
the same dimension as sheet pans, are available. Pa
the product during baking and increase the height
for baking large sheet cakes.
Hotel Pans
Hotel pans (also known as steam table pans) are rectan
less steel pans designed to hold food for service in s
tables. Hotel pans are also used for baking, roast-
ing or poaching inside an oven. Perforated hotel
pans, which are useful for draining, steam-
ing or cooling foods down with ice, are also
available. The standard full-size hotel pan is
12 inches × 20 inches (30 centimeters × 50
centimeters). Hotel pans that are one-half, one-
third, one-sixth and other fractions of this size are
also available. Hotel pan depth is standardized at
2 inches (referred to as a “200 pan”), 4 inches, 6 inches
8 inches (5, 10, 15 and 20 centimeters).
Tart Pans
Tart pans come in individual and large sizes and in rou
Some have fluted edges or removable bottoms, makin
the pan easier.
Cake and Bread Pans
Properly designed cake pans heat evenly to allow de
batters to rise properly. Most commercial cake pans
are made from a heavy 16–20 gauge aluminum and
come in a variety of sizes. Angel food, Bundt and
kugelhopf pans are round pans with hollow cones
in their center; they are also known as tube pans.
This design brings heat to the interior of the batter
and is beneficial when baking heavy batters, as well as
delicate egg foam cakes.
Most bread pans are made from heavy-gauge a
minum or coated steel in a variety of rectangular
When bread pans are joined together in a frame, the
sign allows the baker to easily move a large numbe
at one time.
Springform pans have a removable bottom and s
spring mechanism. Cheesecakes and fragile desserts th
often baked in springform pans.
Flan rings, which are also called ring molds, are
formed into rings. They look like bottomless cake pans
pan and are used to mold or contain mousses and ice
baked cake and filling may be placed in a ring mol
which would be difficult to unmold from a standard ca
the mousse or torte maintains the mold’s shape.
Muffin pans make it possible to bake a number o
cakes at one time. Large sheets of smaller molds, such
tartlets or madeleine cookies, speed the production of
Full- and half-size sheet pans
Assortment of bread pans, strap pans,
tube pans and specialty cake pans
Tart pan with removable
bottom
Springform pan
Flan rings or ring molds
26 C H A P T E R T W O
Balance or baker’s scale
10
0
20
0
300
40
0
500
60
0
70
0
800
90
0
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
40
60
80
20
GRAMS
0 1 2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
34
33
40 60
80
0
oz.
kg.
1
1000g. x 5g.
340z. x 1/4oz
Portion scale
Electronic digital scale
reinforced to take pressure. Most kitchens have a set of round cutters in graduate
and a rolling cutter. Rolling cutters consist of one or more round blades mount
handle. They are used to portion pizzas, trim edges on pastry before bak-
ing or leave a decorative impression on dough. Also known as pastry
wheels, rolling cutters with multiple blades cut several strips of dough
at one time. A doughnut cutter is a 4-inch (10-centimeter) round cutter
with a smaller circular cutter mounted in the center. On some doughnut
cutter models, a lever releases the small center piece of dough, which
becomes the doughnut hole once fried (see page 253).
MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICES
The precise measurement of ingredients is important, especially in the bakeshop
racy in measurement is key to producing high quality and consistent results. Batt
doughs are measured before baking to provide uniform baking times and to
portion size and cost. Scales, measuring devices and temperature gauges are e
equipment in a well-equipped kitchen.
Measurements may be based on weight (e.g., grams, ounces, pounds) or volum
teaspoons, cups, liters) as we discuss in Chapter 4, Mise en Place. Therefore, it is
sary to possess several measuring devices, including a variety of scales as well a
and dry measuring cups. Thermometers and timers are also measuring devices,
include them in this discussion. When purchasing any measuring device, look for
construction and accurate markings.
Scales
Scales determine the weight of an ingredient or a portion of food (e.g., individua
of dough for dinner rolls). Weighing ingredients in the bakeshop ensures th
accurate results. Balance scales (also known as baker’s scales) employ a two-t
free-weight counterbalance system. A curved scaling bowl, called a hopper, ho
ingredients on one side of the scale. Counterweights graduated in ¼-ounce (7
increments balance the weight on the other side. A desired weight is set using th
terweights and then dry ingredients are added to the scaling bowl. When both tr
level, the desired quantity has been measured (see page 103).
Portion scales use a spring mechanism, round dial and single flat tray. They ar
able calibrated in grams, ounces or pounds. Capacity varies; portion models accom
up to 2 pounds in ¼-ounce increments, while larger-capacity scales measure in ½
increments up to 25 pounds (or the metric equivalent). Electronic scales also use a
mechanism but provide digital readouts in ½0-, 1∕10- or 1∕5-ounce (1-, 2- or 5-gram
ments. An automatic tare feature allows the user to ignore the weight of any co
used to hold loose ingredients on the scale. This feature makes accurate measurin
convenient. A scale’s accuracy depends on the model and precision, not its const
Digital electronic scales, for example, may be readable to 0.05 ounce (1 gram). This
Doug
cut
Rolling cutter
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74 C H A P T E R T H R E E
Kumquats
Kumquats are bite-sized oval fruits with a soft, sweet skin and slightly bitter flesh. They
can be eaten whole, either raw or preserved in syrup or jam.
Lemons
The most commonly used citrus fruits are the oval, bright
yellow lemons (Fr. citrons). Their strongly acidic flavor
makes them unpleasant to eat raw but perfect for fla-
voring desserts and confections. Lemon zest is can-
died or used as garnish. The round, smooth-skinned,
juicy Meyer lemon has a sweet, less-acidic flavor and
a strong aroma.
Limes
Limes (Fr. citrons verts; Sp. limóns verdes) are similar to lem-
ons in appearance, but they have thin skins ranging from
yellow-green to dark green. Limes are too tart to eat raw;
they are sometimes used interchangeably with lemons. Their
juice adds its distinctive flavor to ices, curds and sorbet. Lime
zest can be grated and used to give color and flavor to a variety
of dishes. The key lime is a smaller tart lime variety native to South
Florida used to make key lime pie.
Oranges
Oranges (Sp. naranjas) are round and have juicy, orange-colored
flesh and thin orange-colored skins. They can be either sweet or
bitter.
Valencia oranges and navel oranges (a seed-
less variety) are the most popular sweet oranges.
The juice is used for beverages, as the liquid in
cake batter and for sauces and sorbets. Orange
flesh may be eaten raw, cooked in desserts and
used as a garnish. Orange zest may be grated or
julienned for use as a flavoring or garnish. Blood
oranges are also sweet but are smaller, with a rough,
reddish skin. Their flesh is streaked with a blood-red color.
When selecting sweet oranges, look for fruits that feel plump and
heavy, with unblemished skin. The color of the skin depends
on weather conditions; a green rind does not affect the flavor
of the flesh.
Bitter oranges, such as the Seville and bergamot,
are used primarily for the essential oils found in their
zest. Oil of bergamot gives Earl Grey tea its distinc-
tive flavor. Oil of Seville is essential to flavor the
liqueurs Curaçao, and Grand Marnier as well as orange
flower water. Seville oranges are also used to make
marmalades.
Mandarin Oranges
Mandarin oranges are a group of small citruses, 3–4 inches (7.5–10 centimeters) in size,
characterized by their loose, thin peels and intense flavor. Clementines, satsuma manda-
rins and tangerines have dark orange to red-orange skin. Their rinds are loose and eas-
ily removed to reveal sweet, juicy, aromatic segments. Mandarin oranges are most often
eaten fresh and uncooked but are available canned.
Lemons
Limes
Key limes
Kumquats
Navel oranges
Valencia oranges
Blood oranges
Tangerines
Icons
Formulas are marked with various icons to indicate at a glance those addressing health and dietary concerns. The
icon shown here identifies formulas that are good choices for health-conscious diners.
▲
ORTE
3 14 cm) each
1 full sheet 1 full sheet
9 fl. oz. 270 ml
3 fl. oz. 90 ml
2 lb. 6 oz. 1140 g
1 fl. oz. 30 ml
12 oz. 360 g
into three 16-inch 3 8-inch (41-centimeter 3
nt paper–lined sheet pan.
and moisten the cake strip with 4 fluid ounces
xtract. Place slightly more than one-third of the
evenly using an offset spatula.
Moisten it with one-third of the syrup. Spread
strip.
n with the remaining syrup.
rface of the assembled cake layers.
nce the icing is firm, divide the cake into three
rnish the cakes with Candied Almonds.
, Saturated fat 10 g, Cholesterol 110 mg, Sodium 200 mg,
MONDS
2 oz. (2 whites) 60 g
2 oz. 60 g
8 oz. 240 g
lmonds. Toss with a rubber spatula to coat the
sheet pan. Bake at 325°F (160°C) until lightly
tch closely to prevent burning.
s during baking.
up to 10 days.
walnut halves for the sliced almonds. Bake
y, 25–30 minutes.
Saturated fat 1 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 10 mg,
Good Choice
8899_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_BAKING_AND_PASTRY_FUND ...
H E A L T H Y B A K I N G A N D S P E C I A L D I E T S 625
E (VEGAN)
eans have been cooked. Like Ital-
to decorative designs on the top of
chment. Whip on low speed.
a candy thermometer and bring
up approaches 230°F (110°C),
eaches 250°F (121°C), increase
GF Gluten Free Vegan
Vegetarian
aquafaba the thick liquid produced by
cooking legumes, especially chickpeas, in
water or the liquid drained from canned
chickpeas; used to replace egg whites in
some preparations
/209/PH03649/9780135238899_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_BAKING_AND_PASTRY_FUND ...
Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan icons identify formulas in Chapter 18, Healthy Baking and Special Diets.
Tables
▲
Tables and figures offer
visual support and organize
material to enhance
instruction and learning.
534 C H A P T E R S I X T E E N
CRÈME CHANTILLY (CHANTILLY CREAM)
YIELD 2–2½ qt. (2–2.4 lt)
Heavy cream, chilled 1 qt. 1 lt
Powdered sugar 2 oz. 60 g
Vanilla extract 0.3 fl. oz. (2 tsp.) 10 ml
1 Place the cream in a chilled mixing bowl. Using a balloon whisk, whisk the cream until slightly
thickened.
2 Add the sugar and vanilla and continue whisking to the desired consistency. The cream should be
smooth and light, not grainy. Do not overwhip.
3 Crème Chantilly may be stored in the refrigerator several hours. If the cream begins to soften, gently
rewhip as necessary.
Variations:
Chocolate Chantilly—Place 6 ounces (180 grams) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate in a
medium bowl. Bring 1 quart (1 liter) heavy cream, 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliters) milk
and 3 ounces (90 grams) sugar to boil. Pour half of the boiled mixture onto the chopped
chocolate. Whisk until smooth. Add the remaining cream and cover. Refrigerate over-
night before whipping.
Stabilized Whipped Cream—Soften 0.25 ounce (7 grams/2¾ teaspoons) granulated gelatin
in 2 fluid ounces (60 milliliters) cold water. Melt the gelatin over very low heat or in a
bain marie. Add to the cream just as it begins to form soft peaks. Whip to the desired
consistency.
Note: Unsweetened cream that breaks can be turned into butter. Continue whipping until the cream decreases in volume
and separates into lumps of butter and watery liquid called whey. Place the mixture in a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a
bowl. Knead it briefly to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the liquid and use the butter that remains for sautéing
foods or greasing pans.
Approximate values per 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 60, Total fat 6 g, Saturated fat 3.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg,
Sodium 5 mg, Total carbohydrates 2 g, Protein 0 g
CREAM (CRÈME) COMPONENTS TABLE 16.2
FOR A BEGIN WITH A BASE OF THICKEN WITH THEN FOLD IN
Bavarian Custard Gelatin Whipped cream
Chiffon Custard or starch-thickened
fruit
Gelatin Whipped egg whites
Mousse Melted chocolate, puréed
fruit or custard
Nothing or
gelatin
Whipped cream, whipped
egg whites, whipped egg
yolks or all three
MI SE EN PL ACE

Chill cream, mixing bowl and whisk.
Properly whipped Crème Chantilly.
Gluten Free
GF Vegetarian

v
Measurements
All formulas include ingredient quanti-
ties in both U.S. and metric measure-
ments. U.S. and metric measurements
for all temperatures, pan sizes and other
quantities are provided throughout the
text.
Baker’s Percentage
A way of expressing the ratio of ingredi-
ents unique to professional baking, bak-
er’s percentages are used primarily with
breads, cakes and dough products and
are provided with all of those formulas.
Variations
Variations provided at the end of some
formulas show how to modify that for-
mula to create different flavor profiles
and new dishes.
Nutritional Analysis
All formulas include a nutritional analy-
sis prepared by a registered dietitian.
C O O K I E S A N D B R O W N I E S 337
❸ Stacking the striped layers of dough to
form a checkerboard pattern.
❹ Wrapping a layer of chocolate dough
around the block of checkerboard dough.
❺ Slicing the block of checkerboard
dough into cookies before baking.
Bergamot Shortbread
Pecan Shortbread
TRADITIONAL SHORTBREAD
YIELD 84 Cookies, approximately
½ oz. (15 g) each
METHOD Icebox Cookies
Unsalted butter, softened 1 lb. 480 g 84%
Powdered sugar 8 oz. 240 g 42%
Vanilla extract 0.5 fl. oz. 15 ml 3%
Salt 0.2 oz. (1 tsp.) 5 g 1%
Pastry or all-purpose flour 1 lb. 3 oz. 570 g 100%
Egg wash as needed as needed
Total dough weight: 2 lb. 11 oz. 1310 g 230%
1 Blend the butter and powdered sugar in a mixing bowl without creaming. Stir in the vanilla and salt,
mixing thoroughly. Add the flour and mix until just combined.
2 Divide the dough into four equal portions. Roll each piece of dough into 8-inch (20-centimeter)
disks. Wrap in plastic. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes.
3 Remove from the freezer and unwrap, then lightly brush each disk with egg wash. Cut each disk of
dough into eight wedges. Dock the wedges with a fork. Place on parchment paper–lined sheet pans.
4 Bake at 375°F (190°C) until pale golden brown, approximately 15–20 minutes.
Variations:
Bergamot Shortbread—Add 12 drops oil of bergamot with the vanilla in Step 1. Divide the
dough into four equal portions. Roll each piece into a 10-inch- (25-centimeter-) long cylin-
der. Freeze until hard, approximately 30 minutes. Brush each cylinder with egg wash, then
roll in granulated sugar. Cut the cylinders into ½-inch- (1.2-centimeter-) thick slices and
place slices cut side down on parchment paper-lined sheet pans. Dock the cookies with a
fork and bake.
Pecan Shortbread—Add 7 ounces (210 grams/37%) of finely chopped pecans to the dough
in Step 1.
Approximate values per cookie: Calories 70, Total fat 4.5 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 10 mg, Sodium 30 mg,
Total carbohydrates 8 g, Protein 1 g
▲
456 C H A P T E R F O U R T E E N
POUNDCAKE
YIELD 3 Loaves, 9 in. 3 5 in. (23 cm 3 13 cm) METHOD Creaming
Cake flour 1 lb. 5 oz. 630 g 100%
Baking powder 0.37 oz. (2½ tsp.) 11 g 1.8%
Baking soda 0.04 oz. (¼ tsp.) 1 g 0.1%
Unsalted butter, room temperature 15 oz. 450 g 71%
Granulated sugar 1 lb. 7 oz. 690 g 109%
Corn syrup or additional
granulated sugar
1 oz. 30 g 5%
Salt 0.37 oz. (1½ tsp.) 11 g 1.8%
Eggs, room temperature 1 lb. (10 eggs) 480 g 76%
Vanilla extract 0.25 fl. oz. (1½ tsp.) 7.5 ml 1.2%
Almond extract (optional) 0.25 fl. oz. (1½ tsp.) 7.5 ml 1.2%
Lemon zest, grated 0.04 oz. (½ tsp.) 1 g 0.2%
Orange zest, grated 0.04 oz. (½ tsp.) 1 g 0.2%
Buttermilk, room temperature 8 fl. oz. 240 ml 38%
Total batter weight: 5 lb. 5 oz. 2559 g 405%
1 Sift the flour, baking powder and baking soda together. Set aside.
2 Cream the butter until light and lump-free. Add the sugar, corn syrup, if using, and salt. Cream on
medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs a few at a time, allowing them to be completely
incorporated before adding more eggs. Scrape down the bowl after each addition.
3 Add the vanilla and almond extract, if using, and the lemon and orange zests.
4 Fold in the dry ingredients alternately with the buttermilk in three additions each.
5 Divide the batter evenly into three 9-inch 3 5-inch (23-centimeter 3 13-centimeter) greased loaf
pans. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).
Bake until the centers of the cakes bounce back when lightly pressed, approximately 45–55 minutes.
If the cakes begin to darken as they bake, cover them loosely with aluminum foil.
6 Cool the cakes in their pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Unmold and cool completely.
Variations:
ChocolatePoundcake—Reduce the flour to 1 pounds 2 ounces (530 grams/85%). Sift 3 ounces
(90 grams/14%) cocoa powder with the remaining flour.
French-Style Fruitcake—Add 2.25 fluid ounces (67.5 milliliters/10%) rum to the buttermilk.
Fold 9 ounces (270 grams/43%) finely diced nuts, raisins and candied fruit into the batter
after the dry ingredients. After baking, brush the cake with additional rum.
Approximate values per 1∕12-cake serving: Calories 240, Total fat 11 g, Saturated fat 7 g, Cholesterol 80 mg, Sodium 170 mg,
MISE E N P L ACE

Allow butter, eggs and buttermilk to come
to room temperature.

Zest lemon and orange.

Grease pans.

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
❶ The creamed butter. ❷ Adding the eggs to the creamed butter
and sugar.
❸ The poundcake batter.
Mise en Place
French for “put in place,” the mise en place list
accompanying in-chapter formulas points out
what needs to be done before starting to pre-
pare the formula, such as preheating the oven,
chopping nuts or melting butter.
Formulas
Recipes, more appropriately called formulas in
professional bakeshops, demonstrate techniques
and provide delicious laboratory experiments
for all skill levels.
▲
BRAN MUFFINS WITH RAISINS
YIELD 18 Muffins, 3½ oz. (105 g) each METHOD Muffin
Buttermilk 16 fl. oz. 480 ml 152%
Wheat bran 5 oz. 150 g 47%
Salt 0.4 oz. (1¾ tsp.) 10.5 g 3.5%
All-purpose flour 10.5 oz. 315 g 100%
Baking powder 0.3 oz. (2 tsp.) 8 g 3%
Baking soda 0.3 oz. (2 tsp.) 8 g 3%
Cinnamon, ground 0.2 oz. (1 Tbsp.) 6 g 2%
Eggs 3.3 oz. (2 eggs) 100 g 31%
Vegetable oil 6 fl. oz. 180 ml 57%
Brown sugar 12 oz. 360 g 114%
Raisins, conditioned 8 oz. 240 g 75%
Streusel Topping (page 145; optional) as needed as needed
1 Combine the buttermilk, wheat bran and salt. Set aside for 15 minutes. (The mixture will look
deceptively dry.)
2 Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and cinnamon.
3 In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until completely smooth. Add the oil and brown sugar. Stir into
the soaked bran mixture.
4 Fold in the conditioned raisins. Then fold in the dry ingredients and combine without overmixing.
5 Portion into prepared muffin cups. Sprinkle with Streusel Topping, if using. Bake at 400°F (200°C)
until the center bounces back when lightly pressed, approximately 18–22 minutes.
Approximate values per 3½-oz. (105-g) muffin: Calories 290, Total fat 11 g, Saturated fat 1.5 g, Cholesterol 20 mg,
Sodium 450 mg, Total carbohydrates 48 g, Protein 5 g, Claims—good source of fiber
Vegetable oil 4.5 fl. oz. 135 ml 53%
Vanilla extract 0.15 fl. oz. (1 tsp.) 5 ml 2%
Orange or pineapple juice 2 fl. oz. 60 ml 23.5%
Grated peeled carrots 7 oz. 210 g 82%
Grated peeled apple 3.5 oz. 105 g 41%
Raisins 2 oz. 60 g 23.5%
Shredded coconut 2 oz. 60 g 23.5%
Pecan or walnut pieces 2.5 oz. 75 g 29.4%
1 Sift the dry ingredients together.
2 In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and oil together. Stir in the vanilla and orange juice.
3 Stir in dry ingredients. Fold in the grated carrots, grated apple, raisins, coconut and pecans.
4 Portion into prepared muffin cups.
5 Bake at 400°F (200°C) until the center of the muffins bounce back when lightly pressed with a
finger, approximately 25 minutes.
Approximate values per 3½-oz. (105-g) muffin: Calories 330, Total fat 18 g, Saturated fat 3 g, Cholesterol 45 mg,
Sodium 450 mg, Total carbohydrates 42 g, Protein 5 g, Vitamin A 60%, Claims—good source of fiber and iron; excellent
source of vitamin A
Good Choice

vi
Troubleshooting Charts
Troubleshooting charts enhance
the learning experience by clarify-
ing why a problem occurred and
how an error can be corrected or
avoided in the future.
▲
C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S A N D S A U C E S 531
Bread Pudding
Bread pudding is a rustic dessert in which chunks of bread, flavorings and raisins or other
fruit are mixed with an egg custard and baked. The result is somewhat of a cross between
a cake and a pudding. It is often served with custard sauce, ice cream, whipped cream or
a whiskey-flavored butter sauce. Bread pudding is a delicious way to use stale or leftover
bread or overripe fruit. In fact, croissants, brioche, gingerbread, spongecake or a savory
product such as cornbread can be used to make sweet or savory bread puddings. A for-
mula for Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce appears on page 554.
Soufflés
A soufflé consists of a custard base, often thickened with a starch, that is lightened with
whipped egg whites and then baked. When heated, air in the egg whites expands to create
a light, fluffy texture and tall rise. During baking, the egg proteins set, giving some struc-
ture to the finished soufflé. A soufflé is very unstable, however, and collapses quickly as
the air inside it cools. For this reason, do not open the oven door while the soufflé bakes.
Soufflés can be prepared in a wide variety of sweet and savory flavors. The flavor-
ings can be incorporated into the custard, as in the formula presented on the next page.
Alternatively, an unflavored pastry cream can be used as the base, and liqueur, fruit or
chocolate added to each portion separately. The base can be prepared in advance and
kept refrigerated for one or two days.
When making a soufflé, the custard base and egg whites should be at room tempera-
ture. This is because the egg whites will whip to a better volume at room temperature.
In addition, if the base is approximately the same temperature as the egg whites, the two
mixtures can be more easily combined. A portion of the sugar is whipped with the egg
whites to provide stability. The egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks, and then gently
folded into the base immediately before baking.
A soufflé is baked in a straight-sided mold or individual ramekins. Keep the mixture
from touching the top edge of the mold so it will rise evenly. The finished soufflé should
be puffy with a lightly browned top. It should rise well above the rim of the baking dish.
Do not touch a soufflé to test doneness, as it may collapse. A soufflé must be served
immediately, before it collapses. A warm custard sauce, crème anglaise, is often served
as an accompaniment to a sweet soufflé.
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART FOR CUSTARDS TABLE 16.1
PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION
Custard sauce watery Custard overcooked Adjust temperature; remove from heat promptly; cook in a bain marie;
chill over an ice bath.
Custard sauce lumpy Improper mixing of sugar and yolks Whisk yolks and sugar together properly.
Pastry cream lumpy Starch not incorporated properly Blend starch with sugar before adding liquid; stir cream while cooking.
Pastry cream runny Insufficient starch Adjust formula; measure ingredients properly.
Undercooked starch Cook longer.
Wrong starch used Adjust formula.
Overstirred after pastry cream has set Avoid stirring once pastry cream has set.
Baked custard
curdled, lumpy or
watery
Custard overcooked Adjust oven temperature; remove from oven promptly; remove from
water bath to prevent carryover cooking.
Insufficient water in bain marie Increase water in bain marie.
Custard greasy Too much fat Adjust formula; use a combination of heavy cream and milk; use more
whole eggs than yolks.
Cheesecake grainy Overcooked Adjust oven temperature or baking time.
Batter overmixed Soften cream cheese before using; blend batter on low speed.
Cheesecake cracks Baked cake cooled too quickly Cool slowly.
Batter overmixed Soften cream cheese before using; blend batter on low speed.
MI S E EN PL ACE

Grate lemon zest.

Prepare mealy pie dough.

Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) while
filling rests.
BLUEBERRY PIE WITH LATTICE CRUST
YIELD 1 Pie, 9 in. (23 cm) METHOD Baked Fruit Filling
Filling:
Blueberries, fresh or IQF, thawed 1 lb. 8 oz. 720 g
Granulated sugar 4 oz. 120 g
Lemon zest, grated 0.14 oz. (2 tsp.) 4 g
Lemon juice 1 fl. oz. 30 ml
Salt 0.02 oz. (⅛ tsp.) 1 g
Instant tapioca 1.25 oz. 37 g
Cinnamon, ground 0.02 oz. (¼ tsp.) 0.5 g
Unsalted butter 0.5 oz. 15 g
Mealy pie dough 1 lb. 1 oz. 510 g
1 Combine the blueberries, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, tapioca and cinnamon in a bowl.
Allow the filling to stand for 15 minutes. (If using unthawed frozen berries, allow the filling to stand
for 45 minutes.)
2 Using 11 ounces (330 grams) of the pie dough, roll a circle just large enough to fill the pie pan.
3 Gently pour the filling into the unbaked shell. Arrange small lumps of the butter on top of the filling.
4 Roll the remaining pie dough ⅛ inch (3 millimeters) thick and form a lattice over the fruit.
5 Bake at 350°F (180°C) until the filling is bubbly and the crust is well browned, approximately
50 minutes.
Approximate values per ⅛-pie serving: Calories 390, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 55 mg, Sodium 260 mg,
Total carbohydrates 54 g, Protein 4 g, Vitamin A 15%, Vitamin C 15%
Custard Fillings
A custard pie has a soft filling that bakes along with the crust. Popular examples of
custard pies include pumpkin, egg custard and pecan pies. As explained in Chapter 16,
Custards, Creams and Sauces, custards are liquids thickened by coagulated egg proteins.
To make a custard pie, an uncooked liquid containing eggs is poured into a pie shell.
When baked, the egg proteins coagulate, firming and setting the filling.
The procedure for making custard pies is straightforward: Combine the filling ingredi-
ents and bake. But there is often a problem: baking the bottom crust completely without
overcooking the filling. For the best results, start baking the pie at 400°F (200°C). After
10–15 minutes, reduce the heat to 325–350°F (160–180°C) to finish cooking the filling
slowly. Or prepare custard pies in crusts that have been baked blind and then bake them
at a lower temperature throughout.
To determine the doneness of a custard pie:
❶ Shake the pie gently. It is done if it is no longer liquid. The center should show
only slight movement.
❷ Insert a thin knife approximately 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) from the center. The
filling is done if the knife comes out clean.
▲
Photographs
Formulas are illustrated with
step-by-step photographs show-
ing procedural techniques and
photographs of finished products
or plated desserts.
656 C H A P T E R N I N E T E E N
MASCARPONE CHOCOLATE
RASPBERRY DOME CAKE
YIELD 2 Entremets, 8 in. (20 cm) each
Mascarpone Cream Mousse
(page 564)
3 lb. 3 oz.
Coconut Shortbread Tart Dough
(page 395) tart shells, 8 in. (20 cm),
made with hazelnut flour, baked
2 shells
Raspberry Ganache (page 632) 12 oz.
White Chocolate Mirror Glaze
(page 645)
1 lb. 4 oz.
Red gel food coloring as needed
White chocolate ribbons
(page 696)
2
Raspberries as needed
1 Divide the Mascarpone Cream Mousse between two domed silicone molds 7 i
in diameter. Refrigerate or freeze for 4 hours or overnight.
2 Divide the Raspberry Ganache evenly between the two tart shells. Refrigerate
3 Cover a full-sheet pan with plastic wrap, and set a wire rack on top.
4 Unmold the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse onto the wire rack. Return
the freezer for 10–15 minutes.
5 Heat the White Chocolate Mirror Glaze in a bain marie over simmering wate
enough red food coloring to achieve the desired effect.
6 Remove the frozen Mascarpone Cream Mousse from the freezer. Pour the he
the frozen molded mousse. Spread it into a thin layer using a metal spatula.
and set for 3–5 minutes.
7 Using a metal spatula, lift each glazed mousse off the wire rack and place i
tart shell.
8 Decorate each glazed mousse with a white chocolate ribbon and fresh
entremets sit in the refrigerator to temper for 30–60 minutes before serving.
Approximate values per ⅛-torte serving: Calories 660, Total fat 48 g, Saturated fat 28 g, Cholester
Shortbread Tart Shell
Raspberry Ganache
Chocolate Glaze
Chocolate Décor
Fresh Berries
❶ Unmolding the frozen Mascarpone
Cream Mousse.
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656 C H A P T E R N I N E T E E N
M
R
YIELD 2 Entremets, 8 in. (2
Mascarpone Cream Mous
(page 564)
Coconut Shortbread Tart
(page 395) tart shells
made with hazelnut fl
Raspberry Ganache (page
White Chocolate Mirror G
(page 645)
Red gel food coloring
White chocolate ribbons
(page 696)
Raspberries
1 Divide the Mascarpone Cr
in diameter. Refrigerate or
2 Divide the Raspberry Gan
3 Cover a full-sheet pan wit
4 Unmold the frozen Masca
the freezer for 10–15 minu
5 Heat the White Chocolate
enough red food coloring
6 Remove the frozen Masca
the frozen molded mouss
and set for 3–5 minutes.
7 Using a metal spatula, lif
tart shell.
8 Decorate each glazed m
entremets sit in the refrige
Approximate values per ⅛-torte serv
Total carbohydrates 56 g, Protein 1
Shortbread Tart Shell
Raspberry Ganache
Chocolate Glaze
Chocolate Décor
Fresh Berries
❶ Unmolding the frozen Mascarpone
Cream Mousse.
❷ Pouring the heated mirror glaze over ❸ Spreading the heated m
M19_LABE5000_04_SE_C19.indd Page 656 17/10/19 2:11 PM ganga
Color Illustrations of Torte
and Entremet Assembly
▲
Full-color illustrations accompany
torte formulas to show the internal
assembly of these finished desserts.

vii
▲
Sidebars
Sidebars present additional information on food
history, food in culture and the background of
professional food service. Flavor sidebars discuss
how flavorings and other ingredients may be used
to change the character of a product. Convenience
product sidebars present prepared ingredients
available to help streamline production. These side-
bars help explain baking and pastry arts in a wider
social context and provide additional resources that
support a students work in the bakeshop.
ng baking results in a thin-
e spread in cookie dough.
at spread less. Flour with a
oven temperature increases
gues cookies, discussed on
esired, examine the options
Strong Thin dough Bake until well done;
cool on sheet pan.
Weak Thick dough Use parchment-lined
pan; underbake.
Strong Thickness not relevant;
chilled dough
Underbake; cool on
rack.
ally Weak Thickness not relevant;
room-temperature dough
Use greased pan, low
temperature.
amed. A long creaming time
g time (center) produces
read.
The Story Behind the
Chip
History was made in 1930 when Ruth
Wakefield, innkeeper of the Toll House
Inn in Whitman, Massachusetts, cut up a
semisweet chocolate bar and added the
pieces to cookie dough. She was disap-
pointed that the pieces kept their shape
when baked—until her first bite, that is.
Mrs. Wakefield contacted Nestlé
Foods Corporation, which published
her cookie recipe on the wrapper of its
semisweet chocolate bars. The recipe’s
popularity led Nestlé to create and begin
selling chocolate chips in 1939.
Today’s cookie maker can now choose
from milk, white, sweet or bitter choco-
late chips, along with mint, butterscotch,
peanut butter, cinnamon and other flavor
chips, offered in several sizes by a variety
of manufacturers.
ent and a lower proportion
e. The proteins in the eggs
develop gluten in the flour.
ually bake into a chewier
▲
Questions for Discussion
Questions for Discussion located at the end of each chapter are aligned with
the chapter’s Learning Objectives. These questions encourage the integration
of theory and technique for a broader understanding of the material presented.
Some questions require library or online research to emphasize the importance
of assimilating information and seeking solutions beyond primary classroom
materials.
P T E R O N E
Some accidents inevitably occur, and it is important to act appropriately in the event
of an injury or emergency. This can mean calling for help or providing first aid. Every
bakeshop and food service operation should be equipped with a complete first-aid kit.
Local regulations may specify the exact contents of the kit. Be sure that the kit is conve-
niently located and well stocked at all times.
The American Red Cross and public health departments offer training in first aid, car-
diopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) and the Heimlich maneuver used for choking victims.
All employees should be trained in basic emergency procedures. A list of emergency
telephone numbers should be posted by each telephone.
QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION
1 Describe important influences on the baking industry in the 21st century.
2 Many contemporary confections and pastries are rooted in ancient recipes. Use the
internet and library resources to research a product such as a cake, cookie or candy that
was originally popularized in the 19th or 20th century and discuss how its taste and
preparation technique have evolved over time.
3 List three different types of bakery operations and explain their similarities and differences.
4 What are the roles of the executive chef and the pastry chef in the modern kitchen brigade?
5 Describe the key attributes of a baking and pastry professional, and things you can do to
develop the skills, taste and judgment required to advance your career.
6 Review the 2017 Food Code and discuss its impact on sanitary practices in the bakeshop.
7 What precautions should you take to ensure that food allergens do not contaminate baked
goods, pastries and other foods?
8 Numerous professional organizations hold competitions for pastry chefs and bread makers
each year. Use the internet to research recent bread-making and pastry competitions.
Discuss the winning entries and the people who succeeded in these competitions.
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FOR THE INSTRUCTOR
Imagine what you could do if every student came to class ready to learn.
Revel is an engaging, digital, learning environment that prepares your students
for class through a continuous experience—anytime, anywhere, on any device.
Using this learning-science based technology, your students will be able to:
▪
▪ Read, or listen to, the On Baking content on any device
▪
▪ Practice concepts through multiple interactivities that check their understanding
▪
▪ Stay engaged using videos and writing exercises
▪
▪ Finish each chapter with an auto-graded quiz
With the assignability and performance tracking tools in Revel, you can:
▪
▪ Set the pace for progress: Revel allows educators to indicate precisely which
reading must be completed by which dates. This clear, detailed calendar
helps students stay on task by eliminating ambiguity as to which material
will be covered during each class. When students understand exactly what
is expected of them, they are better motivated to keep up.
▪
▪ Focus your time and resources on students’ needs: Using the performance
dashboard, educators can monitor class assignment completion as well as
individual student achievement. Actionable information, such as points
earned on quizzes and tests and time on task, helps educators engage
with their students in meaningful ways. For example, the trending column
in the performance dashboard reveals whether students’ grades are improv-
ing or declining, helping educators identify students who might need help
staying on track.
▪
▪ Provide easy access on the first day of class: LMS integration provides institu-
tions, instructors, and students easy access to their Revel courses via Black-
board Learn™ and Canvas™. With single sign-on, students can be ready to
access Revel’s interactive blend of authors’ narrative, media, and assess-
ment on their first day.
INSTRUCTOR TEACHING RESOURCES
Online Instructor’s Manual
Includes chapter outlines, objectives and summaries, a list of figures and key
terms, and problem-based learning exercises.
PowerPoint Lecture Presentations
This comprehensive set of slides can be used by instructors for class presenta-
tions or by students for lecture preview or review. There is a presentation for
each chapter, including a selection of full-color photographs from the book.
Available through the Revel platform or the Instructor Resource Site.
TestGen (Computerized Test Bank)
The TestGen program contains preloaded text-based questions for instructors to
use to create their own exams and quizzes.
Comprehensive Teaching and Learning Package
viii

ix
FOR THE STUDENT
Revel for On Baking brings concepts to life!
Revel was designed to help every student come to class ready to learn. Using
this seamless, digital, learning experience, students are continuously engaged in
reading, learning with interactives, exploring key topics with videos, and prac-
ticing with flashcards and check your understanding questions. Each chapter
includes a shared writing activity covering a key topic, and ends with a quiz
assessing mastery of the learning objectives.
This engaging presentation has been designed to encourage students to com-
plete their assigned reading and retain what they’ve read, so they can show up
to class better prepared to participate and learn.
▪
▪ Provides an all-in-one solution: Fully digital and highly engaging, Revel gives
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Photographs by Richard Embery, Nick de la Torre and Eddy Van Damme
Drawings by Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram
SARAH R. LABENSKY | PRISCILLA MARTEL | EDDY VAN DAMME
330 Hudson Street, NY, NY 10013
On Baking
A TEXTBOOK OF BAKING AND PASTRY FUNDAMENTALS | FOURTH EDITION

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About the Authors
SARAH R. LABENSKY
Chef Sarah is a culinary educator with an extensive background as an academic
administrator, restaurateur, caterer and advocate for culinary professionalism. She
is currently a chef-instructor for Oceania Cruises. From 2014 to 2019, Chef Sarah
was a professor at Woosong University’s Sol International Culinary Arts School in
Daejeon, Korea. She was also Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute at
Mississippi University for Women and a professor of culinary arts at Scottsdale
(Arizona) Community College. While in Mississippi, Chef Sarah owned two
restaurants and worked as food and beverage director for a country club. Before
teaching, Chef Sarah spent many years as a pastry cook and caterer.
In addition to On Baking, Chef Sarah is coauthor of On Cooking; The Prentice
Hall Dictionary of Culinary Arts and Applied Math for Food Service. She holds a
J.D. from Vanderbilt University, is a past president of the International Association
of Culinary Professionals (IACP) and is a charter member of the Southern
Foodways Alliance. Chef Sarah’s passions include travel and mentoring young
people along their own professional paths.
PRISCILLA MARTEL
Chef Priscilla is a professional chef, educator and food writer with a special interest
in almonds, Mediterranean cuisines and artisan baking. She honed her cooking
skills at Restaurant du Village, a country French restaurant she opened in Chester,
Connecticut, in 1979. Today she operates All About Food, which holds several
baking patents and collaborates with food manufacturers and restaurants to create
innovative products, menus and marketing programs.
Chef Priscilla is a visiting instructor at Boston University’s certificate program in
the culinary arts and in the Hospitality Management Program at Gateway
Community College in New Haven, Connecticut. She is also a contributing writer
for Gourmet Retailer among other food trade publications. To honor her
commitment to help young people prepare for their culinary careers, Chef Priscilla
advises Pro Start Culinary teams in Connecticut. She is coauthor of On Cooking: A
Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals (Pearson, 6th edition, 2019) and Math for
Bakers (DVD).
EDDY VAN DAMME
Chef Eddy Van Damme, born in Belgium, studied Baking and Patisserie in Belgium
and France. As a teenager he wanted nothing more than to come to America, which
he loves and where he has made his home. He is a passionate baking professor at
Houston Community College, where he inspires students to reach their maximum
potential. Chef Eddy constantly researches, innovates and perfects recipes. He has
won numerous competitions and awards and holds five ACF Gold medals. He
travels at least twice a year to Europe to remain current in the latest patisserie
trends. He creates recipes for Imperial Sugar, Dixie Crystals and other companies.
Chef Eddy has been featured on American and European television shows.
When asked what his favorite baking subject is, he answers “The entire bakery/
patisserie/confectionery field is extraordinarily spectacular to me and I deeply
treasure it all”. Currently he is developing allergen-free and nutrition-enhanced
bakery goods.

xv
PART ONE
PROFESSIONALISM
AND THE BAKESHOP
1 Professionalism and Food Safety_________1
BAKERS, CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS 2
Bread Making Since Ancient Times 2
Refined Sugar and the Art of Confectionery 3
The Birth of the Bakery and Restaurant 4
The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique 5
The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine 5
The Return to Craftsmanship and the Artisan Bread Movement 6
The Late 20th and Early 21st Century—An American Culinary
Revolution 6
BAKESHOP OPERATIONS 9
Baking Business Segments 9
Bakeshop and Pastry Kitchen Organization and Staffing 9
THE PROFESSIONAL PASTRY CHEF AND BAKER 10
Knowledge 10
Skill 11
Taste 11
Judgment 11
Dedication 12
Professional Ethics 12
Pride 12
Careers 13
SAFETY AND SANITATION 13
Safe Food-Handling Practices 13
Preventing Cross-Contamination 14
Cleaning and Sanitizing 16
Food Storage and Labeling 17
Controlling Pests 18
Food Allergies and Intolerances 18
Ensuring Employee Safety 19
2 Tools and Equipment for the
Bakeshop________________________________________ 21
STANDARDS FOR TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 22
KNIVES 23
Knife Construction 23
Knife Shapes 23
HAND TOOLS 24
Graters 25
Pastry Brushes 25
Rolling Pins 25
Baker’s Peels 25
Cutters 25
MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICES 26
Scales 26
Volume Measures 27
Ladles 27
Portion Scoops 27
Thermometers and Gauges 27
Timers 28
STRAINERS AND SIEVES 28
Contents
COOKWARE AND BAKEWARE 29
Materials and Heat Conduction 29
Common Cookware 31
Common Bakeware 31
DECORATING AND FINISHING TOOLS 33
PROCESSING EQUIPMENT 33
Slicers 34
Mandoline 34
Food Processors 34
Blenders 34
Immersion Blenders 34
Juicers 34
Whipping Siphon 35
WORK SURFACES, STORAGE AND ORGANIZATION 35
Storage Containers 35
Racks 35
MIXING AND DOUGH HANDLING 36
Mixers 36
Automated Make-Up Equipment 36
Sheeters 37
Proof Boxes 37
Retarders 37
BAKING AND COOKING 37
Ovens 37
Wood-Burning Ovens 38
Microwave Ovens 39
Cook Stoves 39
Broilers, Salamanders and Propane Torches 39
Deep-Fat Fryers 39
REFRIGERATION AND CLEANING 40
Refrigerators and Freezers 40
Ice Cream Freezers 40
Dishwashers 41
SAFETY EQUIPMENT 41
Fire Extinguishers 41
Ventilation Systems 42
First-Aid Kits 42
WORK STATIONS IN THE PROFESSIONAL BAKESHOP 42
Measuring and Mixing Work Station 42
Dough Make-Up Work Station 43
Baking Work Station 43
Assembly Work Station 43
Other Important Areas in the Bakeshop 43
Maximizing Flow in the Bakeshop 43
3 Bakeshop Ingredients_______________________ 45
FLOURS 46
Wheat Flour 46
Types of Wheat Flour 50
Specialty Flours and Meals 51
Purchasing and Storing Flour 52
SUGAR AND SWEETENERS 52
Sugar 52
Liquid Sweeteners 54
Sugar Syrups 55

xvi C O N T E N T S
FATS 58
Butter 58
Lard 59
Margarine 59
Shortenings and Oils 59
MILK AND DAIRY PRODUCTS 60
Milk Processing Techniques 60
Concentrated Milks 61
Cream 62
Cultured Dairy Products 63
Cheese 64
EGGS 65
Egg Composition 65
Egg Grading 66
Egg Storage 66
Egg Sanitation 67
Egg Products 67
Whipped Egg Whites 67
THICKENERS 68
Starches 68
Gelatin 69
Vegetable Gums 71
FRUITS 71
Berries 72
Citrus 73
Specialty Fruits 76
Melons 78
Pomes 79
Stone Fruits 81
Tropical Fruits 83
Purchasing Fresh Fruits 86
Preserving Fruits 87
Juicing Fruits 88
FLAVORINGS 89
Salt 89
Emulsions and Extracts 89
Vanilla 89
Chocolate 90
Coffee and Tea 90
Herbs and Spices 91
Nuts 94
Alcoholic Beverages 96
4 Mise En Place___________________________________ 99
FORMULAS AND RECIPES 100
Standardized Formulas 100
Working with Formulas 100
Production Planning 101
MEASURING INGREDIENTS 101
Measurement Formats 101
Scaling Ingredients 103
Measurement Systems 104
Converting Grams and Ounces 104
Temperature Measurements 105
CONVERTING FORMULAS 106
Converting Total Yield 107
Converting Portion Size 107
Additional Conversion Challenges 108
Baker’s Percentage 109
Yield Percentage 112
KNIFE SKILLS 112
Using Knives Safely 113
Caring For and Sharpening Your Knives 113
PREPARING EQUIPMENT 113
PREPARING INGREDIENTS 114
Ensuring Ingredients Are at the Proper Temperature 114
Making Bread, Cake or Cookie Crumbs 114
Clarifying Butter 115
Toasting Nuts and Spices 115
Blanching Nuts 115
Preparing Nut Flour 116
Flavoring Ingredients 116
Steeping 116
Conditioning 117
Blanching and Parboiling 117
Making an Ice Bath 117
Making a Hot-Water Bath 117
5 Principles of Baking_________________________119
MIXING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES 120
The Importance of Gluten 120
The Importance of Moisture 121
HEAT TRANSFER AND THE SCIENCE OF BAKING 122
Conduction 122
Convection 123
Radiation 123
BAKING AND COOKING METHODS 124
THE BAKING PROCESS AND THE STAGES
OF BAKING 124
Fats Melt 125
Gases Form 125
Gases Are Trapped 126
Microorganisms Are Killed 126
Starches Gelatinize 126
Proteins Coagulate 127
Water Evaporates and Gases Escape 127
Sugars Caramelize 127
Carryover Baking Occurs 128
Staling Begins 128
FLAVOR AND TASTE 128
Tastes: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Umami 129
The Trigeminal Effect 130
Texture and Mouthfeel 130
Perception of Flavors 131
FLAVORING FOOD IN THE BAKESHOP 132
Describing Aromas and Flavors in Food 132
Bakeshop Flavor Combinations 133
PART TWO BREADS
6 Quick Breads__________________________________135
CHEMICAL LEAVENING AGENTS 136
Baking Soda 136
Baking Powder 137
Baking Ammonia 137
Purchasing and Storing Chemical Leavening Agents 137
MIXING METHODS FOR QUICK BREADS 138
Biscuit Method 138
Muffin Method 140
Creaming Method 144
Storing Quick Breads 145
Troubleshooting Quick Breads 146
GRIDDLECAKES 146

C O N T E N T S xvii
7 Basic Yeast Breads___________________________167
YEAST 168
Temperature, Moisture and Salt 168
Types of Yeast 169
PRODUCTION STAGES FOR YEAST BREADS 171
Stage 1: Scaling the Ingredients 171
Stage 2: Mixing and Kneading the Dough 172
Stage 3: Fermenting the Dough 175
Stage 4: Folding (Punching Down) the Dough 176
Stage 5: Portioning the Dough 177
Stage 6: Rounding the Portions 177
Stage 7: Make-Up: Shaping the Portions 177
Stage 8: Proofing the Products 180
Stage 9: Baking the Products 181
Stage 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Products 183
PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING YEAST BREADS 183
QUALITIES OF BREAD 186
8 Preferments and Natural
Starters__________________________________________207
PREFERMENTS 208
Types of Preferments 208
Ingredients for Preferments 209
Mixing Dough with Preferments 209
NATURAL STARTERS 215
Making a Natural Starter 215
Mixing Bread Made with Natural Starters 218
FERMENTATION, MAKE-UP AND BAKING WITH
PREFERMENTS AND NATURAL STARTERS 220
QUALITIES OF BREADS MADE USING
PREFERMENTS AND NATURAL STARTER 220
9 Enriched Yeast Breads_____________________239
ENRICHED YEAST DOUGH 240
Mixing Enriched Yeast Dough 241
Make-Up: Shaping Enriched Yeast Dough 241
Proofing Enriched Yeast Dough 243
Baking Enriched Yeast Dough 243
Cooling, Finishing and Storing Enriched Yeast Dough
Products 243
PROCEDURES FOR PREPARING ENRICHED YEAST
DOUGH 243
Basic Sweet Dough or Bun Dough 245
Brioche 247
DEEP-FRIED ENRICHED YEAST DOUGH AND SPECIALTY
DOUGH PRODUCTS 250
Fats for Deep-Frying 250
Deep-Frying Enriched Dough Products 251
Doughnuts 251
10 Laminated Doughs________________________277
PREPARING LAMINATED DOUGH 278
Preparing the Dough for Laminated Products 278
Selecting and Preparing the Fat for Lamination 279
Enclosing the Fat into the Base Dough 279
Rolling and Folding the Dough to Develop Layers 280
Shaping Laminated Dough for Baking 282
PUFF PASTRY 282
Making and Folding Puff Pastry Dough 282
Shaping Puff Pastry 285
YEAST-RAISED LAMINATED DOUGH 288
Production Stages for Yeast-Raised Rolled-In Doughs 289
Croissants 291
Danish Pastry 294
PART THREE DESSERTS AND PASTRIES
11 Cookies and Brownies___________________315
COOKIES 316
Mixing Methods for Cookies 316
Make-Up Methods for Cookies 318
Panning Cookies 322
Baking Cookies 322
Cookie Formula Balance 322
Finishing Cookies 324
Storing Cookies 327
BROWNIES 328
Brownie Formulas 328
Flavoring Brownies 329
Storing Brownies 330
12 Pies and Tarts_______________________________371
PIE CRUSTS AND TART SHELLS 372
Flaky and Mealy Pie Doughs 372
Sweet Tart Dough (Pâte Sucrée) and Shortbread Tart Dough
(Pâte Sablée) 375
Crumb Crusts 376
Shaping Crusts 377
Baking Pies and Crusts 381
FILLINGS FOR PIES AND TARTS 382
Starches for Pies 382
Cream Fillings 383
Fruit Fillings 385
Custard Fillings 388
Chiffon Fillings 389
ASSEMBLING PIES AND TARTS 389
STORING PIES AND TARTS 392
13 Pastry and Dessert
Components_________________________________421
ÉCLAIR PASTE 422
Preparing Éclair Paste 422
Filling Éclairs 425
Finishing Éclairs 425
MERINGUE 427
Meringue Preparations 428
Browning Meringue 432
Nut Meringue Preparations 432
Filling and Storing Baked Meringue 433
STRUDEL DOUGH 433
PHYLLO DOUGH 436
CRÊPES 437

14 Cakes___________________________________________451
INGREDIENTS FOR CAKES 452
MIXING METHODS FOR CAKES 453
High-Fat Cakes 454
Whipped Egg Cakes 458
PANNING, BAKING AND COOLING CAKES 466
Preparing Cake Pans 466
Filling Cake Pans 466
Baking Cakes 467
Cooling Cakes 468
STORING CAKES 469
15 Icings and Cake Assembly______________479
PREPARING ICINGS 480
Buttercream 480
Foam Icing 486
Fudge Icing 486
Fondant 486
Glaze 488
Royal Icing 489
Ganache 490
ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES 492
Assembling Cakes 492
Simple Cake Decorating Techniques 494
Piping Techniques 495
Covering and Decorating a Cake with Rolled Fondant 501
SPECIALTY CAKES 503
Specialty Cakes and Fillings 504
Assembling Specialty Cakes 504
Decorating Specialty Cakes 505
Constructing Extreme Specialty Cakes 505
CUTTING AND PORTIONING CAKES 506
STORING ASSEMBLED CAKES 508
16 Custards, Creams and Sauces________517
CUSTARDS 518
Handling Eggs in Custards 518
Stirred Custards 518
Baked Custards 525
Soufflés 531
CREAMS 533
Crème Chantilly 533
Bavarian Cream 534
Chiffon 536
Mousse 537
DESSERT SAUCES 542
Fruit Purées 543
Caramel Sauce 544
Chocolate Syrup 544
17 Ice Cream and Frozen Desserts______571
CHURNED FROZEN DESSERTS 572
Ice Cream and Gelato 573
Sorbet and Sherbet 576
Serving Suggestions for Ice Cream and Sorbet 579
Granita 580
STILL-FROZEN DESSERTS 582
FROZEN TORTES AND BOMBES 583
18 Healthy Baking and Special Diets___597
PRINCIPLES OF HEALTHY BAKING 598
Portion Size 598
Ingredient Selection 599
Developing and Modifying Formulas 599
ACCOMMODATING SPECIAL DIETS 600
Low-Sodium Diets 600
Low-Sugar Diets 600
Low-Fat Diets 603
Dairy-Free Diets 604
Gluten-Free Diets 605
Allergen-Free Diets 606
Vegetarian and Vegan Diets 606
Weight Loss Diets 607
COMMUNICATING WITH THE HEALTH CONSCIOUS
CUSTOMER 607
PART FOUR ADVANCED PASTRY WORK
19 Tortes and Entremets____________________633
TORTES AND ENTREMETS 634
Cakes for Tortes and Entremets 635
Fillings for Tortes and Entremets 638
ASSEMBLING AND GARNISHING TORTES AND
ENTREMETS 639
Assembling Tortes and Entremets 639
Garnishing Tortes and Entremets 641
PORTIONING TORTES AND ENTREMETS 642
STORING TORTES AND ENTREMETS 642
20 Petits Fours__________________________________657
PETIT FOUR VARIETIES 658
Fresh Petits Fours 659
Iced Petits Fours 661
Dry Petits Fours 663
Glazed Fruit Petits Fours 666
Petits Fours Prestige 666
SERVING PETITS FOURS 666
21 Chocolate_____________________________________681
CHOCOLATE PRODUCTION 682
Types of Chocolate 683
Chocolate Labeling 686
Storing Bulk Chocolate 686
MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE 687
Melting Chocolate 687
Tempering Chocolate 688
Handling Tempered Chocolate 691
CHOCOLATE DECORATIONS 691
Tempered Chocolate Decorations 691
Modeling Chocolate Decorations 698
xviii C O N T E N T S

CHOCOLATE CANDIES 701
Dipped Chocolate Candies 701
Molded Chocolates 704
Storing Filled Chocolates and Chocolate Candies 707
CHOCOLATE SHOWPIECES 707
22 Plated Desserts____________________________723
DESSERT SERVICE 724
Serving Desserts 724
Creating New Items for a Dessert Menu 725
PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR DESSERTS 726
Choosing Plates 726
Arranging Desserts on the Plate 726
Composing Plated Desserts 728
Garnishing Plated Desserts 731
23 Sugar Work and Confections_________749
SUGAR WORK 750
Caramel 750
Isomalt 754
CONFECTIONS 755
Nougatine 756
Marzipan 758
ADVANCED SUGAR WORK 761
Pastillage 761
Pulled and Blown Sugar 768
Appendix I_________________________________________787
Appendix II________________________________________790
Appendix III_______________________________________791
Glossary____________________________________________ 795
Bibliography and Recommended
Reading_____________________________________________ 807
Recipe Index_______________________________________ 811
Subject Index______________________________________ 821
Credits_______________________________________________ 830
C O N T E N T S xix

Lemon Tea Bread 163
Sour Cream Coffeecake 164
Flour Tortillas 165
American-Style Waffles 166
Pecan Waffles 166
Whipped Honey, Orange
Cardamom Butter 166
Blueberry Almond Butter 166
7 Basic Yeast Breads
Soft Yeast Dinner Rolls 184
Whole-Grain and Oat
Dinner Rolls 184
White Sandwich Bread 189
Whole-Wheat Sandwich Bread 189
Cloverleaf Rolls 189
Pullman Loaves 190
Oatmeal Bread 191
Hamburger or Hot Dog Rolls 192
Potato Herb Rolls 193
Potato Herb Pull-Apart Loaf 193
Olive Herb Potato Rolls 193
Potato Cheddar Cheese Bread 194
Jalapeño Cheese Bread 195
Cheddar Bacon Bread 195
Kaiser or Vienna Rolls 196
French or Italian Bread 197
Nine-Grain Bread 198
Grissini (Dry Italian-Style
Bread Sticks) 199
Plain Bagels 200
Long-Fermented Bagels 201
Tomato Basil Bagels 201
Cinnamon Raisin Bagels 201
Pita Bread 201
Focaccia (Roman Flatbread) 202
Garlic Focaccia 202
Blue Cheese and Red Onion
Focaccia 202
Cherry Tomato and Basil
Focaccia 202
Pizza Dough 203
Swiss Chard and Ricotta Calzone 204
Tarte Flambée (Alsatian
Onion Tart) 205
Decorating Dough 206
8 Preferments and
Natural Starters
Basic Old Dough 210
Carrot Bread with Herbs 211
Light Rye Bread 212
Basic Poolish 214
Formulas
3 Bakeshop Ingredients
Simple Syrup (Heavy) 56
Crème Fraîche 63
4 Mis En Place
Pan Coating 114
6 Quick Breads
Country Biscuits 140
Basic Blueberry Muffins 142
Yogurt or Sour Cream Muffins 143
Pecan or Walnut Spice Muffins 143
Mango Coconut Muffins 143
Cranberry and Dried
Apricot Muffins 143
Cherry Almond Muffins 143
Raspberry Lemon Muffins 143
Apple Beet Muffins 143
Sour Cream Muffins 144
Streusel Topping 145
Buttermilk Pancakes 147
Blueberry Pancakes 147
Apple Pecan Pancakes 147
Cream Scones 149
Savory Greek-Style Scones 149
Chocolate Cherry Scones 150
Cinnamon Orange Scones 150
Cranberry Sour Cream Scones 151
Shortcakes 152
Irish Wheaten Bread 152
Whole Grain Morning Glory Muffins 153
Bran Muffins with Raisins 153
Pumpkin Muffins 154
Sweet Potato Muffins 154
Cranberry and Chocolate
Chip Pumpkin Muffins 154
Cocoa Pear Muffins 155
Corn Muffins 156
Southern-Style Cornbread 156
Jalapeño Cheddar Corn Muffins 156
Bacon Cheddar Corn Muffins 157
Hush Puppies (Deep-Fried
Cornbread) 157
Orange Cranberry Bread 158
Zucchini Bread 158
Zucchini Muffins 159
Dark Gingerbread Cake 159
Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 160
Apple Cranberry Sour Cream
Muffins 161
Banana Bread 162
Chocolate Chip Banana Muffins 162
Strawberry Banana Muffins 162
Artisan Wheat Bread 214
Natural Starter (Chef) 217
Italian Country Sourdough Loaves 219
Traditional French Baguettes with
Old Dough 222
Olive Bread 223
Fougasse with Olives 224
Plain Fougasse 224
Multigrain Oat Bread 225
Artisan Baguettes 226
Rye Bread 227
Country Rye Bread with
Currants 227
Ciabatta 228
Black Olive Ciabatta 228
Artisan Sprouted-Wheat Loaves 229
Onion Walnut Bread 230
Pretzels 231
English Muffins 232
Naan (Indian-Style Flatbread) 233
Garlic Naan 233
Simple Natural Starter 234
Pain au Levain (Traditional
French Sourdough Bread) 235
Pain au Levain with Nuts 235
Pain au Levain with Garlic
and Herbs 235
Pain au Levain with Three
Cheeses 235
Pain au Levain with Walnuts
and Cranberries 235
Rustic Long-Fermented
Sourdough Bread 236
Multigrain Sourdough Bread 238
9 Enriched Yeast Breads
Challah 244
Sweet Bun Dough 246
Quick Fermented Sweet
Bun Dough 247
Cardamom Sweet Bun Dough 247
Brioche 248
Raisin Brioche 248
Savory Cheese and Herb Brioche 248
Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 252
Soft Yeast-Raised Doughnuts 253
Filled Doughnuts 253
Bismarcks 253
Cinnamon Swirl Raisin Bread 256
Jumbo Cinnamon Buns 257
Cream Cheese-Glazed
Cinnamon Buns 257
Cinnamon Bun Coffeecake 257
Powdered Sugar Glaze 257
Formulas printed in blue can be prepared in a 2–3 hour class period.
xx

11 Cookies and Brownies
Chocolate Chunk Cookies 317
Apricot Fruit Spread 326
Decorative Cookie Icing 327
Fudge Brownies 329
Blueberry Fruit Spread 331
Strawberry and Cranberry
Fruit Spread 331
Cherry and Cranberry
Fruit Spread 331
Oatmeal Cookies 332
Chocolate Chewies 332
Carrot Cake “Cookies” 333
Lime and Pineapple Coconut
Macaroons 334
Chocolate Drizzled Coconut
Macaroons 334
Coconut Raspberry Macaroons 334
Chocolate Coconut Macaroons 334
Snickerdoodles (Cinnamon
Butter Cookies) 335
Checkerboard Cookies 336
Traditional Shortbread 337
Bergamot Shortbread 337
Pecan Shortbread 337
Green Tea Shortbread 338
Lemon and Black Sesame
Shortbread 338
Black Currant Shortbread 338
Blueberry-Filled Ginger Cookies 339
Chewy Ginger Cookies 339
Cuccidati (Sicilian Fig Cookies) 340
Biscotti 341
Orange Biscotti 341
Anise Biscotti 341
Chocolate Biscotti 341
Oat Chocolate Chip Bar Cookies 342
Lemon or Lime Bars 342
Pecan Squares 343
Granola Bars 344
Whole Wheat and Oatmeal
Crumble Bars 345
Alfajores (Dulce de Leche
Cookies) 346
Mirror Cookies 347
Raspberry Streusel Squares 347
Luxembergers 347
Almond Macaronnade 347
Sugar Cookies 348
Linzer Cookies 349
Salted Caramel Linzer Cookies 349
Gingerbread Cookies 350
Speculaas (Belgian Spice Cookies) 351
Speculaas Spices 351
Dijon Mustard Black Pepper
Crackers 352
Whole-Wheat Crackers 352
Graham Crackers 353
Rugelach Cookies 354
Spritz Cookies 355
Citrus Spritz Cookies 355
Pain De Mie (Sandwich Bread) 258
Milk Bread 259
Cinnamon Babka Twist Loaf 260
Sweet Dough Coffeecakes 261
Sugar-Glazed Coffeecakes 261
Hot Cross Buns 262
Bun Glaze 263
Pecan Sticky Buns 264
Conchas 265
Parisian Brioche 266
Kugelhopf 267
Chocolate-Glazed Kugelhopf 267
Rum Babas with Crème Chantilly 268
Stollen 269
Panettone 270
Bienenstich (Bee Sting Pastry) 271
Apple Fritters 272
Banana Fritters 272
Cake Doughnut Holes 273
Buñuelos (Mexican-Style
Doughnuts) 274
Beignets (French-Style
Doughnuts) 275
Belgian Waffles 276
10 Laminated Doughs
Puff Pastry 284
Croissants 292
Danish Pastry Dough 294
Cream Cheese Filling 299
Frangipane 299
Green Tea Frangipane 299
Chocolate Frangipane 299
Pistachio Frangipane 299
Almond Paste Filling 300
Pistachio Almond Paste Filling 300
Ricotta Cheese Filling 300
Thickened Cherries 301
Coconut Cream Filling 301
Pineapple Coconut Moons 301
Quick Puff Pastry 303
Apple Turnovers 304
Cherry Turnovers 304
Individual Puff Pastry Fruit Tarts 305
Gateau Pithiviers 305
Palmiers 306
Puff Pastry Fans 307
Cream-Filled Napoleons 308
Two-Toned Croissants 309
Cocoa-Colored Pain au
Chocolate 309
Almond Orange Croissants 310
Chocolate Pistachio Croissants 310
Ham and Cheese Croissants 310
European Danish Dough 311
Cinnamon Rolls 312
Cinnamon Roll Paste 312
Custard Cherry Roll 313
Apricot Pistachio Pinwheels 313
Almond Raspberry Bear Claws 313
Kouign Amann (Breton Butter Cake) 314
Cinnamon Spritz Cookies 355
Chocolate Spritz Cookies 355
Amaretti 356
Whoopie Pies 357
Gingersnaps 358
Butter Cookies 358
Almond Horns 359
Peanut Butter Sandies 360
Swedish Yule Logs 361
Polvorones (Mexican Wedding
Cookies) 361
Chinese-Style Almond Cookies 362
Tuile Batter (Tulipe Cookies) 363
Russian-Style Cigarette Cookies 363
Almond Tuiles 364
Coconut Tuiles 365
Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownies 366
Cream Cheese Sun-Dried Cherry
Brownies 367
Cream Cheese Topping 368
Sun-Dried Cherry Jam 368
German Chocolate Layered
Brownies 369
Blondies 370
12 Pies and Tarts
Basic Pie Dough 374
Sweet Tart Dough (Pâte Sucrée) 376
Basic Crumb Crust 377
Basic Cream Pie 384
Banana Cream Pie 385
Coconut Cream Pie I 385
Coconut Cream Pie II 385
Meringue-Topped Cream Pie 385
Apple-Cranberry Pie 386
Apple-Rhubarb Pie 386
Cherry Pie 387
Blueberry Pie with Lattice Crust 388
Pumpkin Pie 389
Fresh Fruit Tart 391
Shortbread Tart Dough
(Pâte Sablée) 394
Coconut Shortbread Tart
Dough (Pâte Sablée à
la Noix de Coco) 395
Sweet Almond Tart Dough
(Pâte Sucrée Aux Amandes) 396
Coconut Almond Tart Dough 396
Chocolate Tart Dough
(Pâte Sucrée au Chocolat) 396
Pâte Brisée 397
Neutral Glaze 398
Lemon Meringue Pie 398
Chocolate Cream Pie 399
Meringue-Coated Chocolate
Cream Pie 399
Peanut Butter Pie 400
Individual Fresh Strawberry Pies 401
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie 402
Blackberry Crumble 403
Summer Berry Cobbler 404
F O R M U L A S xxi

xxii F O R M U L A S
Dried Apricot and Pistachio
Dacquoise 446
Pistachio Dacquoise 446
Chocolate or Macadamia Nut
Dacquoise 446
Gluten-Free Dacquoise 446
Lemon Dacquoise Cake 447
Phyllo Dough Apple Strudel 448
Strawberry Basil Phyllo Napoleon 449
Phyllo Crisps 449
Crêpes Suzette 450
14 Cakes
Poundcake 456
Chocolate Poundcake 456
French-Style Fruitcake 456
Two-Stage Yellow Butter Cake 457
Spice Cake 457
Classic Genoise 460
Chocolate Genoise 460
Classic Spongecake 462
Chocolate Spongecake 462
Angel Food Cake 464
Chocolate Angel Food Cake 464
Lemon Angel Food Cake 464
Orange Chiffon Cake 465
Lemon Chiffon Cake 465
Gluten-Free Orange Chiffon
Cake 465
Yellow Cake 471
Chocolate and Almond Flour Cake 472
White Chocolate Chunk Flourless
Chocolate Cake 472
Pistachio or Hazelnut Flourless
Chocolate Cake 472
Marble Cake 473
Devil’s Food Cake 474
Sticky Toffee Pudding 475
Almond Genoise 476
Pistachio Almond Genoise 476
Vanilla Spongecake 476
Swiss Jelly Roll 477
Pistachio Spongecake 477
Ladyfingers 477
Ladyfinger Bands 477
Matcha Ladyfingers 477
Chocolate Lava Cakes 478
15 Icings and Cake Assembly
Simple Buttercream 482
Light Chocolate Buttercream 482
Lemon or Orange Buttercream 482
Peanut Buttercream 482
Italian Buttercream 483
Chocolate Italian Buttercream 483
Lemon Italian Buttercream 483
Coffee Italian Buttercream 483
Traditional French Buttercream 484
Mocha French Buttercream 484
Citrus French Buttercream 484
White Chocolate Buttercream 484
Baked Streusel for Crumble 404
Peach Pie with Decorative Crust 405
Pear Hazelnut Crisp 406
Freeform Apple Tarts 406
Hand Pies 408
Deep-Dish Apple Crumb Pie 409
Pecan Pie 410
Sweet Potato Pie 411
Buttermilk Pie 411
Lemon or Lime Curd Tart 412
Key Lime Pie 414
Lime Mango Tartlets 414
Strawberry Cream Tartlets 415
Black and Blueberry Tartlets 415
French-Style Apple Tart 416
Tarte Bourdalou (Pear
Frangipane Tart) 416
Apricot Tart 416
Linzer Tart 417
Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart 418
French-Style Onion Tart 418
Rustic Vegetable Galettes 419
Quiche Lorraine 420
13 Pastry and Dessert
Components
Éclair Paste (Pâte à Choux) 424
Smooth Surface Éclairs 425
Chocolate Éclairs 426
Coffee Cream-Filled Éclairs 426
Raspberry Cream-Filled Éclairs 427
Éclair Glaze 427
Common (French) Meringue 429
Chocolate Meringue 429
Coffee Meringue 429
Lemon or Orange Meringue 429
Coconut Meringue 429
Almond Meringue 429
Meringue Drops and Sticks 429
Swiss Meringue 430
Italian Meringue 432
Apple Strudel 434
Baklava Pastries 436
Crêpes 438
Savory Crêpes 438
Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce 440
Paris-Brest 440
Paris-Brest Cream 441
Individual St. Honoré Pastries 441
Streusel-Topped Cream Puff Shells 442
Churros (Fluted Mexican
Doughnuts) 442
Fruit Meringue Decorations 443
Merveilleux Pastries 444
Rochers (Meringue Cookies) 444
Chocolate-Dipped Rochers 445
Chocolate Nib Rochers 445
Mocha Rochers 445
Individual Pavlova 445
Dacquoise 446
Nougatine Dacquoise 446
Basic Fudge Icing 486
Cocoa Fudge Icing 486
Basic Poured Fondant 487
Basic Rolled Fondant 488
Basic Sugar Glaze 489
Basic Chocolate Glaze 489
Royal Icing 490
Silky Ganache Deluxe 491
Cream Cheese Icing 509
Reduced-Fat Cream
Cheese Icing 509
French Mousseline Buttercream 509
Chocolate Mousseline
Buttercream 509
Fondant Glaze 510
Orange Fondant Glaze 510
Raspberry Fondant Glaze 510
Caramel Nut Filling or Icing 510
German Chocolate Cake 511
Coconut Pecan Icing 511
Carrot Cake 512
Devil’s Food Layer Cake 513
Tres Leches Cake 514
Coconut Lemon Cake 515
Mocha Torte 516
Candied Almonds 516
Candied Pecans or Walnuts 516
16 Custards, Creams
and Sauces
Vanilla Custard Sauce 520
Chocolate Custard Sauce 520
Coffee Custard Sauce 520
Earl Grey Custard Sauce 520
Frangelico Custard Sauce 520
Ginger Custard Sauce 520
Pistachio Custard Sauce 520
Saffron Custard Sauce 520
Pastry Cream 522
Chocolate Pastry Cream 522
Coffee Pastry Cream 522
Coconut Pastry Cream 522
Mousseline Pastry Cream 522
White Chocolate Mousseline
Pastry Cream 522
Chocolate Buttercream
Filling 522
Lemon or Lime Curd 524
Orange Bergamot Curd 524
Passion Fruit Curd 524
Champagne Sabayon 525
Toffee Caramel Flan 526
Baked Crème Brûlée 528
Chocolate Crème Brûlée 528
Hazelnut Crème Brûlée 528
Lavender Crème Brûlée 528
Red Wine Crème Brûlée 528
Lactose-Free Crème Brûlée 528
New York Cheesecake 530
Grand Marnier Soufflé 532
Coffee Soufflé 532

F O R M U L A S xxiii
Panna Cotta (Italian Cooked
Cream Pudding) 561
Buttermilk Panna Cotta 561
Earl Grey Panna Cotta 561
Panna Cotta with Blueberry
Gelée 561
Dark and White Chocolate
Panna Cotta 562
Milk Chocolate Panna Cotta 562
Raspberry Mousse 562
Lemon-Lime Mousse 563
Mascarpone Cream Mousse 564
Cream Cheese Mousse 564
Hazelnut Cream Filling 565
Minted Peach Coulis 565
Mint Coulis 565
Pineapple Sauce 566
Lemon Butter Sauce 566
Chunky Blueberry Sauce 567
Warm Wine Sauce 567
Cold Wine Sauce 567
Butterscotch Sauce 568
Clear Caramel Sauce 568
Fruit Caramel Sauce 568
Kumquat Sauce 569
Candied Citrus Peel Sauce 569
Chocolate Caramel Sauce 570
Vegan Chocolate Caramel Sauce 570
Chocolate Fudge Sauce 570
Mint Chocolate Fudge Sauce 570
17 Ice Cream and Frozen
Desserts
Ice Cream Base 575
Chocolate Ice Cream 575
Cappuccino Ice Cream 575
Brandied Cherry Ice Cream 575
Mango Sorbet 578
Coconut Sorbet 578
Coffee Granita 581
Lemon, Lime or Grapefruit
Granita 581
Coffee Rum Parfait 582
Pistachio Apricot Bombe 584
French Ice Cream Base 586
Anise Ice Cream 586
Banana-Nut Ice Cream 586
Chestnut Ice Cream 586
Coconut Ice Cream 586
Coffee Ice Cream 586
Ginger Ice Cream 586
Hazelnut Ice Cream 586
Indian Cardamom and
Pistachio Ice Cream 586
Mint Ice Cream 586
Pistachio Ice Cream 586
Roasted Peach Ice Cream 586
Vanilla Ice Cream 586
Gelato Base 587
Candied Orange Gelato 587
Coffee Gelato 587
Crème Chantilly (Chantilly Cream) 534
Chocolate Chantilly 534
Stabilized Whipped Cream 534
Bavarian Cream 535
Milk Chocolate Bavarian Cream 535
Rum Bavarian Cream 535
Blueberry or Raspberry
Bavarian Cream 535
Charlotte 536
Lime Chiffon Pie 537
Lemon Chiffon 537
Orange Chiffon 537
Classic Chocolate Mousse 538
Contemporary Chocolate Mousse 540
Flavored Chocolate Mousse 541
Apricot Mousse 542
Fruit Coulis 543
Caramel Sauce 544
Salted Caramel Sauce 544
Vegan Caramel Sauce 544
Caramel Filling 544
Dark Chocolate Syrup 545
Chocolate Cremeux 546
Cocoa Streusel 547
Chocolate and Mango Cremeux 547
Mango Gelée 547
Diplomat Cream Filling 548
Crème Chiboust 548
Passion Fruit Chiboust Tarts 549
Passion Fruit Crème Chiboust 549
Raspberry Cream Filling 550
Cherry Clafouti 550
Crème Brûlée for Tarts 551
Crème Brûlée 551
Coffee Crème Brûlée 551
Ginger Crème Brûlée 551
Chocolate Pots de Crème 552
Caramel Nut Cheesecake 552
Individual Vanilla Cheesecakes 553
Cappuccino Cheesecakes 553
Milk Chocolate Cheesecakes 553
Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce 554
Banana Bread Pudding 554
Apricot Brioche Bread Pudding 554
Chocolate Bread Pudding 554
Bourbon Sauce 554
Pain Perdu (French Toast) 555
Rice Cream Pudding with
Cherry Gelée 556
Cinnamon Raisin Rice
Cream with Strawberry Gelée 556
Rice Pudding 556
Chocolate Soufflé 557
Dairy-Free Chocolate Soufflé 557
One-Step Lemon Curd 558
White Chocolate Frangelico Bavarian 558
Chocolate Chiffon Pie 559
Orange Milk Chocolate Mousse 559
Raspberry Mousseline 560
White Chocolate Mousse 560
White Chocolate Mousse Bars 560
Simple Chocolate Mousse 561
Stracciatella 587
Matcha Gelato 587
Chocolate Gelato 588
Strawberry Ice Cream 588
Apricot, Peach, Pear or Pineapple
Sorbet 589
Lemon or Lime Sorbet 589
Basil Lemon Sorbet 589
Banana or Kiwi Sorbet 589
Raspberry, Cherry, Blackberry
or Three Red Fruit Sorbet 589
Green Apple or Wild Strawberry
Sorbet 589
Blueberry, Red Currant or
Black Currant Sorbet 589
Passion Fruit Sorbet 589
Mandarin or Orange Sorbet 589
Champagne Sorbet 589
Champagne-Rose Sorbet 590
Lemon Sorbet 590
Grapefruit Sorbet 591
Raspberry Sorbet 591
Sorbet Sandwiches 591
Coffee Sherbet 592
Champagne Spoom 592
Pineapple Granita 593
Frozen Orange Soufflé 593
Bananas Foster 594
Baked Alaska 595
Individual Baked Alaska 595
Chocolate Semifreddo 596
18 Healthy Baking and
Special Diets
Pears Poached in Red Wine 609
Fresh Raspberry Jam 610
Warm Baked Peaches or
Nectarines 610
Gratin of Fresh Berries with
Crème Fraîche 611
Sautéed Apricots 611
Chia Pudding (Vegan) 612
Hazelnut Shortbread (Sugar-Free) 612
Mango Ginger Jam
(No-Sugar-Added) 613
Apple-Almond Poundcake
(No-Sugar-Added,
Reduced-Fat) 613
Mango Mousse Torte (Nonfat) 614
Carrot Cake Squares
(Reduced-Fat) 615
Strawberry and Mango
Parfait (Reduced-Fat) 616
Trifle Cream (Reduced-Fat) 616
Chocolate Silk Pie (Lactose-Free) 617
Gluten-Free Flour Mix 617
Flaxseed Bread (Gluten-Free) 618
Chocolate Chip Cookies
(Gluten-Free) 619
Peanut Butter Cookies
(Gluten-Free) 619

xxiv F O R M U L A S
Palomo Entremet 652
Bergamot Entremet 653
Empress Torte 654
Tiramisu Torte 655
Mascarpone Chocolate Raspberry
Dome Cake 656
20 Petits Fours
Lemon Tartlets 660
Iced Raspberry Petits Fours 662
Raspberry Petits Fours 662
French Almond Macarons 664
Chocolate Macarons 665
Apricot Passion Fruit Ganache
Tartlets 668
San Diegos 669
Valencias 669
Opéra Cake 670
Langues de Chat (Cat’s Tongue
Cookies) 671
Lemon Sandwich Cookies 671
Bokkenpootjes (Dutch Goat’s
Feet Cookies) 672
Madeleines 673
Cherry-Almond Florentines 674
Chocolate Pecan Cakes 675
Financiers 676
Stroopwafels (Caramel-Filled
Waffles) 677
Crêpes Dentelles (Lacy Crêpe Cookies) 677
Cocoa Nib Tuiles 678
Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Bites 679
White Chocolate Mousse Bites 680
21 Chocolate
Dark Modeling Chocolate 699
White Modeling Chocolate 699
Dark Chocolate Truffles 703
Chocolate Flower and Pillar
Showpiece 708
Cocoa Butter Modeling Chocolate 711
White Modeling Chocolate
Made with Corn Syrup 711
Gianduja 712
Mendiant (Bittersweet Chocolate,
Nut and Dried Fruit Disks) 713
Ruby Chocolate Mendiants 713
Palets d’Or (Bittersweet and Vanilla
Chocolates) 714
Irish Cream (Chocolate, Coffee
and Whiskey Ganache Squares) 714
Vioni (Milk Chocolate and Vanilla
Squares) 715
Rochers (Caramel, Almond and
Orange Chocolates) 716
Hazelnut Crisps 716
Nougatine Slivers 717
Chocolate, Fruit and Nut Bars 717
Noble (Raspberry Ganache
Chocolates) 718
Brownies (Gluten-Free) 620
Apple Pie (Gluten-Free) 621
Pie Dough (Gluten-Free) 621
Italian Cream Cake (Gluten-Free) 622
Almond Milk (Vegan) 623
Nut Milk Creamer 623
Vanilla Cake (Lactose-Free, Vegan) 624
Aquafaba Italian Meringue (Vegan) 625
Pie or Tart Dough (Vegan) 626
Lime or Lemon Tartlets (Vegan) 626
Pumpkin or Sweet Potato Pie
(Vegan) 627
Fruit-Flavored Pastry Cream
(Vegan) 627
Chocolate Mousse with Mango Coulis
(Vegan) 628
Coconut-Milk Chocolate Cream
(Vegan) 628
Coconut-Milk Chocolate Cream with
Raspberry Coulis and Vanilla
Cake (Vegan) 629
Hazelnut Streusel (Vegan) 629
Chocolate Hazelnut Streusel
(Vegan) 629
Maple Cashew Ice Cream (Vegan) 630
Maple Cashew Ice Cream with
Salted Pecans 630
Chocolate Raspberry Torte
(Vegan) 631
Raspberry Ganache 632
19 Tortes and Entremets
Joconde Cake 636
Fruit and Nut Joconde Cake 636
Patterned Joconde Cake 637
Patterned Joconde Cake with
Cocoa Décor Paste 637
Raspberry or Mango Gelée 638
Apricot, Black Currant,
Blueberry or Peach Gelée 638
Almond Biscuit 643
Almond Biscuit with Hazelnuts 643
Pistachio Biscuit 643
Strawberry Gelée 644
Cherry Gelée 644
Cocoa Gelée 644
Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645
Milk Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645
White Chocolate Mirror Glaze 645
Bûche de Noël (Yule Log) 646
Mocha Rum Yule Log 646
Passion Fruit Yule Log 646
Meringue Mushrooms 647
Sacher Torte 647
Nobilis Torte 648
Hazelnut and Cherry Meringue
Cake 648
Mango Mascarpone Torte 649
Rio Torte 650
Coconut Macadamia Cake 650
Fraisier (French-Style Strawberry Cake) 651
Faun (Hazelnut Ganache
Chocolates) 719
Ceylon (Milk Chocolate and Cinnamon
Ganache Chocolates) 719
Passion (White Chocolate and
Passion Fruit Ganache
Chocolates) 720
Baho (Ginger, Lime and Caramel
Cream–Filled Chocolates) 720
Caravelle (Marzipan, Raspberry
and Hazelnut Chocolates) 721
Pona (Orange Cream–Filled
Chocolates) 722
22 Plated Desserts
Candied Citrus Peel 737
Chocolate Coconut “Dirt” 737
Toasted Coconut Curls 738
Fruit “Pearls” 738
Lemon Lace Cookies 739
Raspberry Lace Cookies 739
Pistachio Ice Cream Filled
Profiteroles 740
Brownie with Orange Marshmallow
and Mandarin Sorbet 741
Lime Banana Verrine 741
White Chocolate Mousse on
Rhubarb with Strawberry
Ice Cream 742
Warm Rhubarb in Orange
Syrup 742
Domed Cheesecake with Pineapple
Skewer and Mango Sorbet 743
Cheesecake Domes 743
Lemon-Lime Mousse with Black
Currant Sorbet 744
Deconstructed Black Forest Cake 744
Cheesecake with Black Currant
Sorbet 745
Flambéed Pineapple in Crêpes with
Blackberry Sorbet 746
Palmiers with Baked Nectarines,
Peach Sorbet and Champagne
Sabayon 747
S’mores on a Plate 747
Chocolate Mousse with Strawberry
Sorbet 748
23 Sugar Work and Confections
Caramel 751
Decorating Caramel 752
Isomalt Lace 755
Basic Nougatine 757
Hazelnut or Walnut Nougatine 757
Cocoa Nougatine 757
Sesame Seed Nougatine 757
Coffee Nougatine 757
Marzipan 758
Marzipan Pear 760
Marzipan Happy Pig 761

F O R M U L A S xxv
Assembling Pulled and Blown
Sugar Flower 775
Caramel-Dipped Fruits 776
Sugar-Based Nougatine 777
Hazelnut or Walnut Nougatine 777
Coffee Nougatine 777
Nougatine Cups 777
Nougat Montélimar 778
Caramel Candies 779
Peanut Brittle 780
Hazelnut Brittle 780
Pastillage 762
Matisse-Inspired Showpiece 764
Showpiece Tube Supports 765
Showpiece Base 766
Showpiece Philodendron Leaves 766
Hibiscus-Style Flowers 767
Showpiece Assembly 767
Basic Pulled and Blown Sugar 770
Making the Pulled Sugar Flower Petals 773
Making the Blown Sugar Sphere
(Core of the Flower) 774
Tua-Tad (Thai-Style Peanut-Sesame
Brittle) 780
Pecan Pralines 781
Marshmallows 782
Flavored Marshmallows 782
Raspberry Pâte de Fruit 783
Gum Paste 784
Green Marzipan Bombe 785
Marzipan Flowers 785
Pastillage Calla Lilies 786

On Baking: A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals builds on the successful
approach developed in On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals. This is a
carefully designed text intended to teach both the principles and practices of baking and
the pastry arts. The baking information presented in On Cooking is suitable for culinary
students seeking a general knowledge of baking. On Baking takes the same clear, organ-
ized approach and expands the material into far greater depth, covering techniques and
formulas required for core and advanced baking and pastry programs.
This text aims to teach professional culinary students core baking principles and the
skills necessary to produce a wide array of baked goods, desserts and confections. Our
goal is not merely to offer a collection of recipes or formulas, although there are over 750
formulas and variations for a wide variety of baked goods and confections. We include
these formulas to illustrate the techniques presented in the teaching sections of each
chapter. Throughout the text, we discuss both the “how” and “why” of baking. Extensive
step-by-step photographs help illustrate techniques used to, for example, form bread
dough, shape cookies or temper chocolate, while complete formulas present the baking
principles and procedures. Throughout the text we provide extensive illustrated sections
identifying bakeshop ingredients and equipment. We believe that a thorough understand-
ing of the function of ingredients will serve you well throughout your baking career.
Winner of the 2004 Gourmand World Cookbook Award as the “Best Book for Food
Professionals in the World,” On Baking has been uniformly praised for its organization,
clarity, ease of use and use of quality photography to illustrate professional techniques.
This fourth edition seeks to further enhance the content included in prior editions.
THE STORY BEHIND THIS UPDATE
Much of the feedback received since On Baking was first published indicates that stu-
dents and instructors appreciate a text with clear, thorough explanations of fundamental
techniques used in professional bakeries. Users also look for an assortment of formulas
for making classic pastries and items served at modern bakery cafés as well as dishes that
reflect an interest in plant-based cooking and wider cultural influences. We have edited
this text to improve readability for today’s student and to align procedures, formulas and
photos more closely. New and revised formulas speak to current trends. New photo-
graphs clearly illustrate baking procedures and techniques. Because pastry and baking
programs vary in content and depth, we incorporated material appropriate for a range of
skill levels and interests. Expanded coverage of advanced yeast bread, confectionary and
pastry work addresses the needs of a variety of pastry and baking programs.
A NOTE ON RECIPES AND FORMULAS
The featured formulas, as recipes are called in the bakeshop, are designed to reinforce
and demonstrate techniques presented within each chapter. Many of these formulas
intentionally produce smaller yields, which are more appropriate for students beginning
to learn about baking and for small schools and teaching kitchens. Professional bake-
shops prefer to measure ingredients by weight, so volume measurements are used only
when the quantity of an ingredient is difficult to weigh without specialized equipment:
less than ½ ounce (30 grams) of salt, leavening or spices, for example. All ingredients are
listed in both U.S. and metric measurements with the metric equivalents rounded to
even, easily measured units when possible.
Preface
xxvi

It is important to understand that the U.S. and metric quantities of ingredients are
actually separate formulas; do not measure some ingredients in the metric amounts and
other ingredients in the U.S. amounts, or the ratios will not be accurate and the intended
result will not be achieved. We provide yields in either total batch weight or total yield
and offer suggested portion sizes where appropriate.
Baker’s percentages are included with many formulas, especially those for breads and
flour-based products. Widely used in the professional bakeshop, baker’s percentages are
very useful for increasing or decreasing yields as needed.
We present detailed procedures for standard techniques, then generally do not repeat
them in each formula (for example, “apply egg wash” or “divide the dough”). A mise en
place feature is included with formulas that appear in the front section of formula chap-
ters. Ingredients that require preparation before beginning to assemble the formula are
listed in the margin. Consult this brief checklist after you read the formula but before you
begin to bake. No matter how detailed the written formula, however, we must assume
that you possess certain knowledge, skills and judgment.
Variations appear at the end of selected formulas. These variations enable you to see
how a set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different dishes or new
flavors with only minor modifications. Variations also provide the advanced baker or
pastry chef the opportunity to customize formulas for different applications. Headnotes
that describe the cultural or historical background of a bread or pastry or the unique tech-
niques used in its preparation appear with many of the formulas. This short text should
enhance your understanding of a baking style or technique.
Baking instructions are based on the use of a conventional oven. If a convection oven
is used instead, you may need to reduce the temperatures by 25–50°F (15–30°C) from
those recommended in the recipes. Watch the baking time as well because convection
ovens can cook as much as 20 percent faster than conventional ovens.
A registered dietitian analyzed each formula using nutritional analysis software that
incorporates data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, research laboratories and food
manufacturers. The nutrient information provided here should be used only as a refer-
ence, however. A margin of error of approximately 20 percent can be expected because
of natural variations in ingredients. Preparation techniques and serving sizes may also
significantly alter the values of many nutrients. In the nutritional analysis for a formula
that offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient is the one used unless
stated otherwise. Ingredients listed as “as needed” are omitted from the analysis. Corn oil,
whole milk, unsalted butter and table salt are used throughout for “vegetable oil,” “milk,”
“butter” and “salt,” respectively. In cases of a range of ingredient quantities or numbers of
servings, the average was used.
Throughout this text the Good Choice symbol highlights formulas that are particularly
low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; if appropriate, these formulas may also be
a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium. Gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan
formulas found in Chapter 18, Healthy Baking and Special Diets, are indicated with the
symbols shown here.
Good Choice
Vegetarian
Bakeshop products are often challenging to produce from start to finish in a single
two- to three-hour class session. Formulas that can be produced in a limited amount of
time are printed in blue in the master formula list on pages xx through xxv. If a dough,
pastry or frozen component must rest or chill overnight before it can be used, that formula
P R E F A C E xxvii
Gluten Free
GF
H E A L T H Y B A K I N G A N D S P E C I A L D I E T S 625
NGUE (VEGAN)
which beans have been cooked. Like Ital-
piped into decorative designs on the top of
0 ml
0 g
0 ml
hip attachment. Whip on low speed.
Attach a candy thermometer and bring
ugar syrup approaches 230°F (110°C),
e syrup reaches 250°F (121°C), increase
e in a steady stream between the side of
GF Gluten Free Vegan
Vegetarian
aquafaba the thick liquid produced by
cooking legumes, especially chickpeas, in
water or the liquid drained from canned
chickpeas; used to replace egg whites in
some preparations
/209/PH03649/9780135238899_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_BAKING_AND_PASTRY_FUND ...

will not be highlighted even if the final preparation can be made quickly. Should compo-
nents such as tart dough or puff pastry be readily available, more of the formulas in this
text may be prepared in a two- to three-hour class. As in restaurant and bakery settings,
however, many breads and pastries will need to be made in stages. For example, puff
pastry can be produced one day, then refrigerated for baking and assembly on a later day.
This reinforces the component approach to pastry preparation, in which fillings, doughs,
toppings, icings and such can be prepared in advance and assembled in various ways to
complete desserts and pastries. Similarly, starters for yeast breads, doughs and fillings for
Danish pastries and many dessert sauces can be prepared days in advance of final use.
Baking is both an art and a science. It is best learned through hands-on experience
combined with study of the principles that underlie each technique. As a student, you
should rely on the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although some
skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no
book can substitute for repeated, hands-on preparation and observations. We hope you
enjoy On Baking!
xxviii P R E F A C E

Acknowledgments
This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many
people. Special thanks go to photographers Richard Embery and Nick de la Torre for their
talent, professionalism and commitment to quality; to Eddy Van Damme for his artistry
with both recipes and photographs; and to Pierre Edouard Banry for his skills with sugar
work and photography. The nutritional analysis was prepared by Mindy Hermann, MBA,
RD, whose thoroughness and prompt replies were greatly appreciated. Thanks also go to
Stacey Winters Quattrone, Bill Ingram and Anna Moreno for their artistry. We are grateful
to the many chefs, restaurateurs, writers and culinary professionals who provided formulas
and essays for this text. We extend our special thanks to the baking and pastry profession-
als who took time out of their busy schedules to contribute to this edition. Among them:
Will Goldfarb, En-Ming Hsu, Miranda Loveless, Emily Luchetti, Alex Miles, Craig Nielsen,
Morgan Winkelmann and Tina Powers, CEC CEPC CMB.
Sarah offers her sincere thanks and appreciation to her co-authors for adding their
expertise, insight and artistry to this edition. Many thanks go to Eddy for both his con-
temporary, accessible formulas and his professionalism behind the camera lens. Sarah is
especially grateful to Priscilla for her friendship as well as her many contributions to this
project, including her ability to organize and synthesize mountains of information and
express a clear vision for the text.
Eddy would like to thank his parents for gently guiding him into the amazing field of
baking, Patricia for being the best sister anyone could ask for and Kyle for being the
greatest. He would like to sincerely thank Chancellor Cesar Maldonado, PHD, PE, PMP;
President Muddassir Siddiqi, EdD, PMP, CPLP; and Dean Suzette Brimmer for their relent-
less support, dedication and vision of excellence for the Pastry Arts, Culinary Arts and
other programs at Houston Community College. Eddy feels honored to be part of the
college and thanks the entire H.C.C. family and truly talented team of culinary and pastry
professors. He also would like to thank Hyuna Lee, Quynh Luu Ha and the Imperial
Sugar Company for their friendship and generous support to the H.C.C. Pastry Arts Pro-
gram. Thanks also go to Kimberley O’Quinn with Storyteller Communications for her
friendship and pushing his creativity. Eddy is immensely thankful and thrilled to be
working with Priscilla and Sarah.
Priscilla would like to recognize the personal and professional support of Victor Frumolt,
Harbinder Mann, Jacques Pépin, Carole Pierce, J. Patrick Truhn, Sylvia Barnes and James
Trimble with this project. She would also like to thank Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director
ICE; Miriam Madrigal, Marketing Manager, Callebaut; Warren Patterson, General Mills; Sara
Saltiel, Marketing Coordinator, NSF International; Bill Weekley, CMB, General Mills; and
William “Bill” Yosses, former White House Executive Pastry Chef, for their professional help
with this project. She wishes to thank her co-authors and friends, Sarah and Eddy. Without
Sarah’s keen eye for details and Eddy’s vast knowledge and artistry, On Baking wouldn’t be
possible. And thanks go to Charlie van Over for always keeping the wood oven stoked.
The authors wish to thank Houston Community College, Houston, TX, for the use of
its kitchens.
Finally we wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Pearson Education, includ-
ing Pamela Chirls, former Portfolio Manager for Culinary; Jenifer Niles, Manager Content
HE, Careers Professional; Rinki Kaur, Content Producer; Rachele Strober, Product Mar-
keting Coordinator; Tara Warrens, Senior Content Analyst Trades, Culinary, Hospitality;
Erin Mulligan, Developmental Editor; John Christiana for his award-winning design skills
and patience during our color selections; and Kelly Ricci and her team at Aptara.
We also remain indebted to Robin Baliszewski, Acquisitions Editor of the first edition
of On Cooking and current Managing Director for Higher Education Sales at Pearson, for
her support and friendship.
xxix

xxx A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
We would like to offer our sincere thanks to the following chefs and instructors who
took the time to provide their detailed feedback on the content in our text book over the
four editions.
Leslie Bartosh CEC, FMP Alvin Community College
Dorothy Chen-Maynard, California State University
San Bernardino
Elizabeth Dickson, Bossier Parish Community College
Debbie Foster, Ball State University
Wendy Gordon, Rockland Community College
Jeff Hamblin, Brigham Young University–Idaho
Robert Hansen, Bob Jones University
James Haynes, Glendale Community College
Dorothy Johnston, SUNY-Erie
Cynthia Kruth, Naugatuck Valley Community College
Joseph LaVilla, College of Marin
Marilyn Lowers, Cape Fear Community College
Allan Okuda, Hawai’i Community College
Virginia Olson CWPC, CHE, Anne Arundel Community College
Anthony Pisacano, Ogeechee Technical College
Cindy Schwanke, College of the Canyons
Armando Trujillo, Pima Community College

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