![Wire
CIRC-02
WHAT WE’RE DOING:
THE CIRCUIT:
Parts:
Schematic
pin 2 pin 3 pin 4 pin 5
pin 6 pin 7 pin 8 pin 9
10
.:8 LED Fun:.
.:Multiple LEDs:.
We have caused one LED to blink, now it's time to up the
stakes. Lets connect eight. We'll also have an opportunity to
stretch the Arduino a bit by creating various lighting
sequences. This circuit is also a nice setup to experiment with
writing your own programs and getting a feel for how the Arduino works.
Along with controlling the LEDs we start looking into a few simple programming methods to
keep your programs small.
for() loops - used when you want to run a piece of code several times.
arrays[] - used to make managing variables easier (it's a group of variables).
5mm Yellow LED
x8
330 Ohm Resistor
Orange-Orange-Brown
x8
2 Pin Header
x4
CIRC-02
Breadboard Sheet
x1
gnd
gnd
The Internet
.:download:.
LED
resistor
330ohm
LED
resistor
330ohm
breadboard layout sheet
http://ardx.org/BBLS02S
.:view:.
assembly video
http://ardx.org/VIDE02](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/ardx-eg-spar-web-rev10-141018212035-conversion-gate02/85/arduino-12-320.jpg)
![CODE (no need to type everything in just click)
NOT WORKING? (3 things to try)
Some LEDs Fail to Light
It is easy to insert an LED
backwards. Check the LEDs
that aren't working and ensure
they the right way around.
MAKING IT BETTER
Switching to loops: Extra animations:
In the loop() function there are 4 lines. The last Tired of this animation? Then try the other two
three all start with a '//'. This means the line is sample animations. Uncomment their lines and upload
treated as a comment (not run). To switch the the program to your board and enjoy the new light
program to use loops change the void loop() animations. (delete the slashes in front of row 3 and then 4)
code to:
Testing out your own animations: //oneAfterAnotherNoLoop();
oneAfterAnotherLoop(); Jump into the included code and start changing
//oneOnAtATime(); things. The main point is to turn an LED on use //inAndOut();
Upload the program, and notice that nothing has
changed. You can take a look at the two it off use digitalWrite(pinNumber, LOW); .
functions, each does the same thing, but use Type away, regardless of what you change you won't
different approaches (hint: the second one uses break anything.
a for loop).
MORE, MORE, MORE:
Operating out of sequence
With eight wires it's easy to cross
a couple. Double check that the
first LED is plugged into pin 2 and
each pin there after.
CIRC-02
digitalWrite(pinNumber, HIGH); then to turn
11
Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE02 )
(and then copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions:
http://ardx.org/CIRC02
Starting Afresh
Its easy to accidentally
misplace a wire without
noticing. Pulling everything out
and starting with a fresh slate
is often easier than trying to
track down the problem.
//LED Pin Variables * will then turn them off
int ledPins[] = {2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9};
//An array to hold the void oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(){
//pin each LED is connected to int delayTime = 100;
//i.e. LED #0 is connected to pin 2 / / t h e t i m e ( i n m i l l i s e c o n d s ) t o p a u s e
//between LEDs
void setup() digitalWrite(ledPins[0], HIGH); //Turns on LED #0
{ //(connected to pin 2)
for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//this is a loop and will repeat eight times ...
pinMode(ledPins[i],OUTPUT); ...
//we use this to set LED pins to output digitalWrite(ledPins[7], HIGH); //Turns on LED #7
} //(connected to pin 9)
} delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
//Turns Each LED Off
void loop() // run over and over again digitalWrite(ledPins[7], LOW); //Turns off LED #7
{ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds
oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(); ...
//this will turn on each LED one by
//one then turn each oneoff -----more code in the downloadable version------
//oneAfterAnotherLoop();
//this does the same as onAfterAnotherNoLoop
//but with much less typing
//oneOnAtATime();
//inAndOut();
}
/*
* oneAfterAnotherNoLoop() - Will light one then
* delay for delayTime then light the next LED it](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/ardx-eg-spar-web-rev10-141018212035-conversion-gate02/85/arduino-13-320.jpg)
![CODE (no need to type everything in just click)
Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE06 )
(copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch)
/* Melody
* (cleft) 2005 D. Cuartielles for K3
* digitalWrite(speakerPin,
* This example uses a piezo speaker to play melodies. It sends LOW);
* a square wave of the appropriate frequency to the piezo, delayMicroseconds(tone);
* generating the corresponding tone. }
* }
* The calculation of the tones is made following the
* mathematical operation: void playNote(char note, int duration) {
* char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b', 'C' };
* timeHigh = period / 2 = 1 / (2 * toneFrequency) int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136, 1014, 956
*
* where the different tones are described as in the table: };
* // play the tone corresponding to the note name
* note frequency period timeHigh for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
* c 261 Hz 3830 1915 if (names[i] == note) {
* d 294 Hz 3400 1700 playTone(tones[i], duration);
* e 329 Hz 3038 1519 }
* f 349 Hz 2864 1432 }
* g 392 Hz 2550 1275 }
* a 440 Hz 2272 1136
* b 493 Hz 2028 1014 void setup() {
* C 523 Hz 1912 956 pinMode(speakerPin, OUTPUT);
* }
* http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Melody
*/ void loop() {
int speakerPin = 9; if (notes[i] == ' ') {
int length = 15; // the number of notes delay(beats[i] * tempo); // rest
char notes[] = "ccggaagffeeddc "; // a space represents a rest } else {
int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 4 }; playNote(notes[i], beats[i] * tempo);
int tempo = 300; }
void playTone(int tone, int duration) { delay(tempo / 2); }
NOT WORKING? (3 things to try)
MAKING IT BETTER
MORE, MORE, MORE:
CIRC-06
for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) {
// pause between notes
Tired of Twinkle Twinkle
The code is written so you can
easily add your own songs,
check out the code below to
19
Can't Think While the
Melody is Playing?
Just pull up the piezo element
whilst you think, upload your
program then plug it back in.
Little Star?
get started.
More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions:
http://ardx.org/CIRC06
No Sound
Given the size and shape of
the piezo element it is easy to
miss the right holes on the
breadboard. Try double
checking its placement.
Playing with the speed: char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b',
The timing for each note is calculated based on 'C' }; int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136,
variables, as such we can tweak the sound of each note 1014, 956 };
or the timing. To change the speed of the melody you Composing your own melodies:
need to change only one line. The program is pre-set to play 'Twinkle Twinkle Little Star'
int tempo = 300; ---> int tempo = (new #) however the way it is programmed makes changing the song
Change it to a larger number to slow the melody down,
easy. Each song is defined in one int and two arrays, the int
or a smaller number to speed it up.
Tuning the notes: length defines the number of notes, the first array
If you are worried about the notes being a little out of notes[] defines each note, and the second beats[]
tune this can be fixed as well. The notes have been defines how long each note is played. Some Examples:
calculated based on a formula in the comment block at Twinkle Twinkle Little Star int length = 15;
the top of the program. But to tune individual notes just char notes[] = {"ccggaagffeeddc "};
int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, adjust their values in the tones[] array up or down 1, 1, 2, 4 };
until they sound right. (each note is matched by its Happy Birthday (first line)
int length = 13; name in the names[] (array ie. c = 1915 ) char notes[] = {"ccdcfeccdcgf "};
int beats[] = {1,1,1,1,1,2,1,1,1,1,1,2,4};
for (long i = 0; i < duration * 1000L; i += tone * 2) { }
digitalWrite(speakerPin, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(tone);](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/ardx-eg-spar-web-rev10-141018212035-conversion-gate02/85/arduino-21-320.jpg)
arduino
- 2. ABOUT OPEN SOURCE HARDWARE All of the projects at SparkFun and .:oomlout:. are open source. What does this mean? It means everything involved in making this kit, be it this guide, 3D models, or code is available for free download. But it goes further, you're also free to reproduce and modify any of this material, then distribute it for yourself. The catch? Quite simple, it is released under a Creative Commons (By - Share Alike) license. This means you must credit .:oomlout:. in your design and share your developments in a similar manner. Why? We grew up learning and playing with open source software and the experience was good fun, we think it would be lovely if a similar experience was possible with physical things. More details on the Creative Commons CC (By - Share Alike) License can be found at http://ardx.org/CCLI We’re a plucky little design company focusing on producing “delightfully fun open source products” To check out what we are up to http://www.oomlout.com A Few Words ABOUT THIS KIT The overall goal of this kit is fun. Beyond this, the aim is to get you comfortable using a wide range of electronic components through small, simple and easy circuits. The focus is to get each circuit working then giving you the tools to figure out why. If you encounter any problems, want to ask a question, or would like to know more about any part, extra help is only an e-mail away help@oomlout.com. ABOUT .: OOMLOUT :. ABOUT SPARKFUN SparkFun is an energetic young company seeking to make electronics fun, accessible, and approachable to everyone - from kids in elementary school to PhD-toting engineers. http://www.sparkfun.com/ ABOUT PROBLEMS We strive to deliver the highest level of quality in each and every thing we produce. If you ever find an ambiguous instruction, a missing piece, or would just like to ask a question, we’ll try our best to help out. help@oomlout.com (we like hearing about problems it helps us improve future versions) Thanks For Choosing .:oomlout:. and SparkFun
- 3. TBCN .: WHERE TO FIND EVERYTHING :. table of contents Before We Start {ASEM} Assembling the Pieces 02 {INST} Installing the Software 03 {PROG} A Small Programming Primer 04 {ELEC} A Small Electronics Primer 06 The Circuits {CIRC01} Getting Started - (Blinking LED) 08 {CIRC02} 8 LED Fun - (Multiple LEDs) 10 {CIRC03} Spin Motor Spin - (Transistor and Motor) 12 {CIRC04} A Single Servo - (Servos) 14 {CIRC05} 8 More LEDs - (74HC595 Shift Register) 16 {CIRC06} Music - (Piezo Elements) 18 {CIRC07} Button Pressing - (Pushbuttons) 20 {CIRC08} Twisting - (Potentiometers) 22 {CIRC09} Light - (Photo Resistors) 24 {CIRC10} Temperature - (TMP36 Temperature Sensor) 26 {CIRC11} Larger Loads - (Relays) 28 {CIRC12} Colorful Light - (RGB LED) 30 {CIRC13} Measuring Bends - (Flex Sensor) 32 {CIRC14} Fancy Sensing - (Soft Potentiometer) 34 01
- 4. 01 ASEM assembling the 02 pieces Breadboard x1 Arduino x1 Arduino Holder x1 .: PUTTING IT TOGETHER :. .: For an introduction to what an Arduino is, visit :. .: http://ardx.org/INTR :.
- 5. .: INSTALLING THE IDE :. This is the program used to write code for the Arduino. It may seem a little daunting at first but once you have it installed and start playing around, its secrets will reveal themselves. Step 1: Download the software http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software download the software for your operating system Windows XP Mac OSX Step 2: Unzip the Software Unzip rr(rr- version #) arduino-00 -win.zip Recommended Path c:Program Files Step 3: Shortcut Icon Open rr (rr- version #) c:program filesarduino-00 Right Click Arduino.exe (send to>Desktop (create shortcut)) Step 4: Plug In Your Arduino Plug your Arduino in: Using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a free USB port. Wait for a box to pop up Step 5: Add new Hardware Skip searching the internet (click the next box when prompted to do so) Install from a specific location (click “Install from a list or specific location (Advanced)") Choose the Location Duemilanove Board c:program filesarduino-00 rrdriversFTDI USB Drivers Uno Board c:program filesarduino-00 rrdrivers Finished Vista, Seven Step 5: Add new Hardware Run Device Manager Start > Run > devmgmt.msc Choose the Arduino Other Devices > Arduino Uno (Uno) Update Driver click “Update Driver” Select Driver click “Browse My Computer for Driver Software” c:program filesarduino-00rrdrivers 02 INST installing (software and hardware) Step 2: Open The .dmg Open (mount) arduino-00rr-mac.dmg (rr- version #) Step 3: Copy The Application Go to "Arduino" (in the devices section of finder) Move "Arduino" Application to the "Applications" folder Step 4: Install Drivers .:Duemilanove Boards Only:. Go to "Arduino" device Double Click & Install FTDI Drivers for Intel Macs ( _ _ ).pkg rrrr (FTDI Drivers for PPC Macs ( _ _ ).pkg rrrr Restart Step 5: Plug In Your Arduino Plug your Arduino in: Using the included USB cable, plug your Arduino board into a free USB port. Finished .: NOTE: :. .: Encountering problems? :. .: Would like more details? Using Linux? :. .: http://ardx.org/LINU :. Go to Finished 03
- 6. ARDUINO PROGRAMMING IN BRIEF // (single line comment) It is often useful to write notes to yourself as you go along about what each line of code does. To do this type two forward slashes and everything until the end of the line will be ignored by your program. { } (curly brackets) Used to define when a block of code starts and ends (used in functions as well as loops). 03 PROG programming 04 primer .:A Small Programming Primer:. The Arduino is programmed in the C language. This is a quick little primer targeted at people who have a little bit of programing experience and just need a briefing on the idiosyncracies of C and the Arduino IDE. If you find the concepts a bit daunting, don't worry, you can start going through the circuits and pick up most of it along the way. For a more in-depth intro, the Arduino.cc website is a great resource. STRUCTURE void setup(){ } All the code between the two curly brackets will be run once when your Arduino program first runs. Each Arduino program (often called a sketch) has two required functions (also called routines). void loop(){ } This function is run after setup has finished. After it has run once it will be run again, and again, until power is removed. SYNTAX ; (semicolon) Each line of code must be ended with a semicolon (a missing semicolon is often the reason for a program refusing to compile). One of the slightly frustrating elements of C is its formatting requirements (this also makes it very powerful). If you remember the following you should be alright. /* */(multi line comment) If you have a lot to say you can span several lines as a comment. Everything between these two symbols will be ignored in your program. A program is nothing more than instructions to move numbers around in an intelligent way. Variables are used to do the moving. long (long) Used when an integer is not large enough. Takes 4 bytes (32 bits) of RAM and has a range between -2,147,483,648 and 2,147,483,647. int (integer) The main workhorse, stores a number in 2 bytes (16 bits). Has no decimal places and will store a value between -32,768 and 32,767. boolean (boolean) A simple True or False variable. Useful because it only uses one bit of RAM. char (character) Stores one character using the ASCII code (ie 'A' = 65). Uses one byte (8 bits) of RAM. The Arduino handles strings as an array of char’s. float (float) Used for floating point math (decimals). Takes 4 bytes (32 bits) of RAM and has a range between -3.4028235E+38 and 3.4028235E+38. VARIABLES
- 7. 03 PROG programming 05 primer MATH OPERATORS = (assignment) makes something equal to something else (eg. x = 10 * 2 (x now equals 20)) % (modulo) gives the remainder when one number is divided by another (ex. 12 % 10 (gives 2)) + (addition) - (subtraction) * (multiplication) / (division) Operators used for manipulating numbers. (they work like simple math). COMPARISON OPERATORS == (equal to) (eg. 12 == 10 is FALSE or 12 == 12 is TRUE) != (not equal to) (eg. 12 != 10 is TRUE or 12 != 12 is FALSE) < (less than) (eg. 12 < 10 is FALSE or 12 < 12 is FALSE or 12 < 14 is TRUE) > (greater than) (eg. 12 > 10 is TRUE or 12 > 12 is FALSE or 12 > 14 is FALSE) Operators used for logical comparison. CONTROL STRUCTURE if(condition){ } else if( condition ){ } else { } This will execute the code between the curly brackets if the condition is true, and if not it will test the else if condition if that is also false the else code will execute. Programs are reliant on controlling what runs next, here are the basic control elements (there are many more online). for(int i = 0; i < #repeats; i++){ } Used when you would like to repeat a chunk of code a number of times (can count up i++ or down i-- or use any variable) DIGITAL digitalWrite(pin, value); Once a pin is set as an OUTPUT, it can be set either HIGH (pulled to +5 volts) or LOW (pulled to ground). pinMode(pin, mode); Used to set a pin's mode, pin is the pin number you would like to address 0-19 (analog 0- 5 are 14-19). The mode can either be INPUT or OUTPUT. int digitalRead(pin); Once a pin is set as an INPUT you can use this to return whether it is HIGH (pulled to +5 volts) or LOW (pulled to ground). ANALOG int analogWrite(pin, value); Some of the Arduino's pins support pulse width modulation (3, 5, 6, 9, 10, 11). This turns the pin on and off very quickly making it act like an analog output. The value is any number between 0 (0% duty cycle ~0v) and 255 (100% duty cycle ~5 volts). The Arduino is a digital machine but it has the ability to operate in the analog realm (through tricks). Here's how to deal with things that aren't digital. int analogRead(pin); When the analog input pins are set to input you can read their voltage. A value between 0 (for 0 volts) and 1024 (for 5 volts) will be returned. .:For a full programming reference visit:. http://ardx.org/PROG
- 8. 04 ELEC electronics Diode What it Does: No. of Leads: The electronic equivalent of a one way 2 valve. Allowing current to flow in one Things to watch out for: direction but not the other. - Will only work in one direction (current will Identifying: flow if end with the line is connected to ground) Usually a cylinder with wires extending from More Details: either end. (and an off center line indicating polarity) http://ardx.org/DIOD Hobby Servo What it Does: No. of Leads: Takes a timed pulse and converts it into 3 an angular position of the output shaft. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - The plug is not polarized so make sure A plastic box with 3 wires coming out one it is plugged in the right way. side and a shaft with a plastic horn out More Details: the top. http://ardx.org/SERV DC Motor What it Does: No. of Leads: Spins when a current is passed through it. 2 Identifying: Things to watch out for: This one is easy, it looks like a motor. - Using a transistor or relay that is rated Usually a cylinder with a shaft coming out for the size of motor you're using. of one end. More Details: http://ardx.org/MOTO 06 primer .:A Small Electronics Primer:. ELECTRONICS IN BRIEF No previous electronic experience is required to have fun with this kit. Here are a few details about each component to make identifying, and perhaps understanding them, a bit easier. If at any point you are worried about how a component is used or why it's not working the internet offers a treasure trove of advice, or we can be contacted at help@oomlout.com COMPONENT DETAILS LED (Light Emitting Diode) What it Does: No. of Leads: Emits light when a small current is 2 (one longer, this one connects to positive) passed through it. (only in one direction) Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Will only work in one direction Looks like a mini light bulb. - Requires a current limiting resistor More Details: http://ardx.org/LED Resistors What it Does: No. of Leads: Restricts the amount of current that can 2 flow through a circuit. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Easy to grab the wrong value (double Cylinder with wires extending from either check the colors before using) end. The value is displayed using a color More Details: coding system (for details see next page) http://ardx.org/RESI Transistor What it Does: No. of Leads: Uses a small current to switch or amplify a 3 (Base, Collector, Emitter) much larger current. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Plugging in the right way round (also a Comes in many different packages but you current limiting resistor is often needed on the base pin) can read the part number off the package. More Details: (P2N2222AG in this kit and find a datasheet online) http://ardx.org/TRAN
- 9. 04 ELEC electronics What it Does: No. of Leads: Packages any range of complicated 2 - 100s (in this kit there is one with 3 (TMP36) and electronics inside an easy to use package. one with 16 (74HC595) Identifying: Things to watch out for: The part ID is written on the outside of the - Proper orientation. (look for marks showing pin 1) package. (this sometimes requires a lot of More Details: light or a magnifying glass to read). http://ardx.org/ICIC 07 primer Piezo Element What it Does: A pulse of current will cause it to click. A No. of Leads: stream of pulses will cause it to emit a 2 tone. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Difficult to misuse. In this kit it comes in a little black barrel, More Details: but sometimes they are just a gold disc. http://ardx.org/PIEZ IC (Integrated Circuit) Pushbutton What it Does: No. of Leads: Completes a circuit when it is pressed. 4 Identifying: Things to watch out for: A little square with leads out the bottom - these are almost square so can be and a button on the top. inserted 90 degrees off angle. Potentiometer More Details: http://ardx.org/BUTT What it Does: No. of Leads: Produces a variable resistance dependant 3 on the angular position of the shaft. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Accidentally buying logarithmic scale. They can be packaged in many different More Details: form factors, look for a dial to identify. http://ardx.org/POTE Photo Resistor What it Does: No. of Leads: Produces a variable resistance dependant 2 on the amount of incident light. Things to watch out for: Identifying: - Remember it needs to be in a voltage Usually a little disk with a clear top and a divider before it provides a useful input. curvy line underneath. More Details: http://ardx.org/PHOT RESISTOR COLOR CODE LEAD CLIPPING first digit second digit # of zeros tolerance Examples: green-blue-brown - 560 ohms red-red-red - 2 200 ohms (2.2k) brown-black-orange - 10 000 ohms (10k) 0 - Black 5 - Green 20% - none 1 - Brown 6 - Blue 10% - silver 2 - Red 7 - Purple 5% - gold 3 - Orange 8 - Grey 4 - Yellow 9 - White Some components in this kit come with very long wire leads. To make them more compatible with a breadboard a couple of changes are required. LEDs: Clip the leads so the long lead is ~10mm (3/8”) long and the short one is ~7mm (9/32”). Resistors: Bend the leads down so they are 90 degrees to the cylinder. Then snip them so they are ~6mm (1/4”) long. Other Components: Other components may need clipping. Use your discretion when doing so. COMPONENT DETAILS (CONT.)
- 10. CIRC-01 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Schematic Arduino pin 13 longer lead LED (light emitting diode) resistor (330ohm) (orange-orange-brown) gnd (ground) (-) 08 .:Getting Started:. .:(Blinking LED):. LEDs (light emitting diodes) are used in all sorts of clever things which is why we have included them in this kit. We will start off with something very simple, turning one on and off, repeatedly, producing a pleasant blinking effect. To get started, grab the parts listed below, pin the layout sheet to your breadboard and then plug everything in. Once the circuit is assembled you'll need to upload the program. To do this plug the Arduino board into your USB port. Then select the proper port in Tools > Serial Port > (the comm port of your Arduino). Next upload the program by going to File > Upload to I/O Board (ctrl+U). Finally, bask in the glory and possibility that controlling lights offers. If you are having trouble uploading, a full trouble shooting guide can be found here: http://ardx.org/TRBL Wire 5mm Yellow LED x1 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x1 2 Pin Header x4 CIRC-01 Breadboard Sheet x1 Parts: The Internet .:download:. + breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS01S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE01
- 11. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) CIRC-01 09 File > Examples > 1.Basic > Blink (example from the great arduino.cc site, check it out for other ideas) /* Blink * Turns on an LED on for one second, then off for one second, * repeatedly. * Created 1 June 2005 By David Cuartielles * http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink * based on an orginal by H. Barragan for the Wiring i/o board */ int ledPin = 13; // LED connected to digital pin 13 // The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output: pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); } // the loop() method runs over and over again, // as long as the Arduino has power void loop() { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // set the LED on delay(1000); // wait for a second digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // set the LED off delay(1000); // wait for a second } LED Not Lighting Up? LEDs will only work in one direction. Try taking it out and More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC01 twisting it 180 degrees. (no need to worry, installing it backwards does no permanent harm). Changing the pin: Control the brightness: The LED is connected to pin 13 but we can use any of Along with digital (on/off) control the Arduino can control the Arduino’s pins. To change it take the wire plugged some pins in an analog (brightness) fashion. (more details on into pin 13 and move it to a pin of your choice (from 0- this in later circuits). To play around with it. 13) (you can also use analog 0-5, analog 0 is 14...) Change the LED to pin 9: (also change the wire) Then in the code change the line: ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = 9; int ledPin = 13; -> int ledPin = newpin; Replace the code inside the { }'s of loop() with this: Then upload the sketch: (ctrl-u) analogWrite(ledPin, new number); Change the blink time: (new number) = any number between 0 and 255. Unhappy with one second on one second off? 0 = off, 255 = on, in between = different brightness In the code change the lines: Fading: digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); We will use another included example program. To open go to delay(time on); //(seconds * 1000) File > Examples > 3.Analog > Fading digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); delay(time off); //(seconds * 1000) Then upload to your board and watch as the LED fades in and then out. Still No Success? A broken circuit is no fun, send us an e-mail and we will get back to you as soon as we can. help@oomlout.com Program Not Uploading This happens sometimes, the most likely cause is a confused serial port, you can change this in tools>serial port> MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 12. Wire CIRC-02 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: Schematic pin 2 pin 3 pin 4 pin 5 pin 6 pin 7 pin 8 pin 9 10 .:8 LED Fun:. .:Multiple LEDs:. We have caused one LED to blink, now it's time to up the stakes. Lets connect eight. We'll also have an opportunity to stretch the Arduino a bit by creating various lighting sequences. This circuit is also a nice setup to experiment with writing your own programs and getting a feel for how the Arduino works. Along with controlling the LEDs we start looking into a few simple programming methods to keep your programs small. for() loops - used when you want to run a piece of code several times. arrays[] - used to make managing variables easier (it's a group of variables). 5mm Yellow LED x8 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x8 2 Pin Header x4 CIRC-02 Breadboard Sheet x1 gnd gnd The Internet .:download:. LED resistor 330ohm LED resistor 330ohm breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS02S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE02
- 13. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) Some LEDs Fail to Light It is easy to insert an LED backwards. Check the LEDs that aren't working and ensure they the right way around. MAKING IT BETTER Switching to loops: Extra animations: In the loop() function there are 4 lines. The last Tired of this animation? Then try the other two three all start with a '//'. This means the line is sample animations. Uncomment their lines and upload treated as a comment (not run). To switch the the program to your board and enjoy the new light program to use loops change the void loop() animations. (delete the slashes in front of row 3 and then 4) code to: Testing out your own animations: //oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(); oneAfterAnotherLoop(); Jump into the included code and start changing //oneOnAtATime(); things. The main point is to turn an LED on use //inAndOut(); Upload the program, and notice that nothing has changed. You can take a look at the two it off use digitalWrite(pinNumber, LOW); . functions, each does the same thing, but use Type away, regardless of what you change you won't different approaches (hint: the second one uses break anything. a for loop). MORE, MORE, MORE: Operating out of sequence With eight wires it's easy to cross a couple. Double check that the first LED is plugged into pin 2 and each pin there after. CIRC-02 digitalWrite(pinNumber, HIGH); then to turn 11 Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE02 ) (and then copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC02 Starting Afresh Its easy to accidentally misplace a wire without noticing. Pulling everything out and starting with a fresh slate is often easier than trying to track down the problem. //LED Pin Variables * will then turn them off int ledPins[] = {2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9}; //An array to hold the void oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(){ //pin each LED is connected to int delayTime = 100; //i.e. LED #0 is connected to pin 2 / / t h e t i m e ( i n m i l l i s e c o n d s ) t o p a u s e //between LEDs void setup() digitalWrite(ledPins[0], HIGH); //Turns on LED #0 { //(connected to pin 2) for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds //this is a loop and will repeat eight times ... pinMode(ledPins[i],OUTPUT); ... //we use this to set LED pins to output digitalWrite(ledPins[7], HIGH); //Turns on LED #7 } //(connected to pin 9) } delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds //Turns Each LED Off void loop() // run over and over again digitalWrite(ledPins[7], LOW); //Turns off LED #7 { delay(delayTime); //waits delayTime milliseconds oneAfterAnotherNoLoop(); ... //this will turn on each LED one by //one then turn each oneoff -----more code in the downloadable version------ //oneAfterAnotherLoop(); //this does the same as onAfterAnotherNoLoop //but with much less typing //oneOnAtATime(); //inAndOut(); } /* * oneAfterAnotherNoLoop() - Will light one then * delay for delayTime then light the next LED it
- 14. CIRC-03 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: CIRC-03 Breadboard Sheet x1 Transistor P2N2222AG Parts: Collector Emitter 12 .:Spin Motor Spin:. .:Transistor & Motor:. The Arduino's pins are great for directly controlling small electric items like LEDs. However, when dealing with larger items (like a toy motor or washing machine), an external transistor is required. A transistor is incredibly useful. It switches a lot of current using a much smaller current. A transistor has 3 pins. For a negative type (NPN) transistor, you connect your load to collector and the emitter to ground. Then when a small current flows from base to the emitter, a current will flow through the transistor and your motor will spin (this happens when we set our Arduino pin HIGH). There are literally thousands of different types of transistors, allowing every situation to be perfectly matched. We have chosen a P2N2222AG a rather common general purpose transistor. The important factors in our case are that its maximum voltage (40v) and its maximum current (200 milliamp) are both high enough for our toy motor (full details can be found on its datasheet http://ardx.org/2222). (The 1N4001 diode is acting as a flyback diode for details on why its there visit: http://ardx.org/4001) Wire Transistor P2N2222AG (TO92) x1 10k Ohm Resistor Brown-Black-Orange x1 2 Pin Header x4 Toy Motor x1 Arduino pin 9 resistor (10kohm) gnd (ground) (-) Base Motor +5 volts The transistor will have P2N2222AG printed on it (some variations will have different pin assignments!) Diode (1N4001) x1 Diode .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS03S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE03 .:NOTE: if your arduino is resetting you need to install the optional capacitor:. Schematic The Internet
- 15. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE03 ) (then simply copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) int motorPin = 9; //pin the motor is connected to void setup() //runs once void motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(){ { int onSpeed = 200;// a number between pinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT); //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed) } int onTime = 2500; int offSpeed = 50;// a number between void loop() // run over and over again //0 (stopped) and 255 (full speed) { int offTime = 1000; motorOnThenOff(); analogWrite(motorPin, onSpeed); //motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(); // turns the motor On //motorAcceleration(); delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds } analogWrite(motorPin, offSpeed); // turns the motor Off /* delay(offTime); // waits for offTime milliseconds * motorOnThenOff() - turns motor on then off } * (notice this code is identical to the code we used for void motorAcceleration(){ * the blinking LED) int delayTime = 50; //time between each speed step */ for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){ void motorOnThenOff(){ //goes through each speed from 0 to 255 int onTime = 2500; //on time analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed int offTime = 1000; //off time delay(delayTime);// waits for delayTime milliseconds digitalWrite(motorPin, HIGH); } // turns the motor On for(int i = 255; i >= 0; i--){ delay(onTime); // waits for onTime milliseconds //goes through each speed from 255 to 0 digitalWrite(motorPin, LOW); analogWrite(motorPin, i); //sets the new speed // turns the motor Off delay(delayTime);//waits for delayTime milliseconds delay(offTime);// waits for offTime milliseconds } } } Still No Luck? NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) If you sourced your own motor, double check that it will work with 5 volts and that it does not draw too much power. CIRC-03 Still Not Working? Sometimes the Arduino board computer. Try un-plugging and then re-plugging it into your 13 Motor Not Spinning? If you sourced your own transistor, double check with the data sheet that the pinout will disconnect from the USB port. MAKING IT BETTER More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC03 is compatible with a P2N2222AG (many are reversed). Controlling speed: In the loop() section change it to this We played with the Arduino's ability to control the // motorOnThenOff(); brightness of an LED earlier now we will use the same motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(); feature to control the speed of our motor. The Arduino // motorAcceleration(); Then upload the program. You can change the speeds by does this using something called Pulse Width changing the variables onSpeed and offSpeed. Modulation (PWM). This relies on the Arduino's ability to operate really, really fast. Rather than directly Accelerating and decelerating: controlling the voltage coming from the pin the Arduino Why stop at two speeds, why not accelerate and decelerate will switch the pin on and off very quickly. In the the motor. To do this simply change the loop() code to read computer world this is going from 0 to 5 volts many // motorOnThenOff(); times a second, but in the human world we see it as a // motorOnThenOffWithSpeed(); voltage. For example if the Arduino is PWM'ing at 50% motorAcceleration(); we see the light dimmed 50% because our eyes are not Then upload the program and watch as your motor slowly quick enough to see it flashing on and off. The same accelerates up to full speed then slows down again. If you feature works with transistors. Don't believe me? Try it would like to change the speed of acceleration change the out. variable delayTime (larger means a longer acceleration time). MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 16. CIRC-04 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: CIRC-04 Breadboard Sheet x1 Schematic signal (white) gnd (black) The Internet 14 .:A Single Servo:. .:Servos:. Spinning a motor is good fun but when it comes to projects where motion control is required they tend to leave us wanting more. The answer? Hobby servos. They are mass produced, widely available and cost anything from a couple of dollars to hundreds. Inside is a small gearbox (to make the movement more powerful) and some electronics (to make it easier to control). A standard servo is positionable from 0 to 180 degrees. Positioning is controlled through a timed pulse, between 1.25 milliseconds (0 degrees) and 1.75 milliseconds (180 degrees) (1.5 milliseconds for 90 degrees). Timing varies between manufacturer. If the pulse is sent every 25-50 milliseconds the servo will run smoothly. One of the great features of the Arduino is it has a software library that allows you to control two servos (connected to pin 9 or 10) using a single line of code. Wire 3 Pin Header x1 Mini Servo x1 2 Pin Header x4 Arduino pin 9 gnd (ground) (-) +5v (red) Mini Servo +5 volts (5V) .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS04S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE04
- 17. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) // Sweep // by BARRAGAN <http://barraganstudio.com> #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; // create servo object to control a servo int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position myservo.attach(9); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object Still Not Working A mistake we made a time or two was simply forgetting to connect the power (red and brown wires) to +5 volts and ground. CIRC-04 15 File > Examples > Servo > Sweep (example from the great arduino.cc site, check it out for other great ideas) void setup() { Servo Not Twisting? Even with colored wires it is still shockingly easy to plug a servo in backwards. This might More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC04 be the case. Potentiometer control: void loop() { We have yet to experiment with inputs but if you would like int pulseTime = 2100; //(the number of microseconds to read ahead, there is an example program File > Servo > //to pause for (1500 90 degrees // 900 0 degrees 2100 180 degrees) Knob. This uses a potentiometer (CIRC08) to control the digitalWrite(servoPin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(pulseTime); servo. You can find instructions online here: digitalWrite(servoPin, LOW); delay(25); http://ardx.org/KNOB } Self timing: Great ideas: While it is easy to control a servo using the Arduino's included Servos can be used to do all sorts of great things, here are a few of library sometimes it is fun to figure out how to program our favorites. something yourself. Try it. We're controlling the pulse directly Xmas Hit Counter so you could use this method to control servos on any of the http://ardx.org/XMAS Arduino's 20 available pins (you need to highly optimize this code before doing that). Open Source Robotic Arm (uses a servo controller as well as the Arduino) http://ardx.org/RARM int servoPin = 9; void setup(){ Servo Walker pinMode(servoPin,OUTPUT); } http://ardx.org/SEWA } void loop() { for(pos = 0; pos < 180; pos += 1) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees { // in steps of 1 degree myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position } for(pos = 180; pos>=1; pos-=1) // goes from 180 degrees to 0 degrees { myservo.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' delay(15); // waits 15ms for the servo to reach the position } } Fits and Starts If the servo begins moving then twitches, and there's a flashing light on your Arduino board, the power supply you are using is not quite up to the challenge. Using a fresh battery instead of USB should solve this problem. NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 18. There is a half moon cutout, this goes at the top CIRC-05 .:8 More LEDs:. WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: Schematic +5 volts 74HC595 +5V The Internet 16 .:74HC595 Shift Register:. Time to start playing with chips, or integrated circuits (ICs) as they like to be called. The external packaging of a chip can be very deceptive. For example, the chip on the Arduino board (a microcontroller) and the one we will use in this circuit (a shift register) look very similar but are in fact rather different. The price of the ATMega chip on the Arduino board is a few dollars while the 74HC595 is a couple dozen cents. It's a good introductory chip, and once you're comfortable playing around with it and its datasheet (available online http://ardx.org/74HC595 ) the world of chips will be your oyster. The shift register (also called a serial to parallel converter), will give you an additional 8 outputs (to control LEDs and the like) using only three Arduino pins. They can also be linked together to give you a nearly unlimited number of outputs using the same four pins. To use it you “clock in” the data and then lock it in (latch it). To do this you set the data pin to either HIGH or LOW, pulse the clock, then set the data pin again and pulse the clock repeating until you have shifted out 8 bits of data. Then you pulse the latch and the 8 bits are transferred to the shift registers pins. It sounds complicated but is really simple once you get the hang of it. (for a more in depth look at how a shift register works visit: http://ardx.org/SHIF) Wire Shift Register 74HC595 x1 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x8 CIRC-05 Breadboard Sheet x1 Red LED x8 LED resistor (330ohm) gnd (ground) (-) pin 4 pin 3 pin 2 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 data clock latch gnd .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS05S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE05
- 19. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) Not Quite Working Sorry to sound like a broken record but it is probably something as simple as a crossed wire. CIRC-05 17 The Arduino’s power More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC05 LED goes out This happened to us a couple of times, it happens when the chip is inserted backwards. If you fix it quickly nothing will break. Doing it the hard way: //between LED updates An Arduino makes rather complex actions very easy, shifting out data is for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ changeLED(i,ON); one of these cases. However one of the nice features of an Arduino is delay(delayTime); you can make things as easy or difficult as you like. Let's try an } for(int i = 0; i < 8; i++){ example of this. In your loop switch the line: changeLED(i,OFF); updateLEDs(i) -> updateLEDsLong(i); delay(delayTime); Upload the program and notice nothing has changed. If you look at the } Uploading this will cause the lights to light up one after another and then off code you can see how we are communicating with the chip one bit at a in a similar manner. Check the code and wikipedia to see how it works, or time. (for more details http://ardx.org/SPI ). shoot us an e-mail if you have questions. Controlling individual LEDs: Time to start controlling the LEDs in a similar method as we did in More animations: Now things get more interesting. If you look back to the code from CIRC02 (8 CIRC02. As the eight LED states are stored in one byte (an 8 bit value) LED Fun) you see we change the LEDs using digitalWrite(led, state), this is for details on how this works try http://ardx.org/BINA. An Arduino is the same format as the routine we wrote changeLED(led, state). You can use very good at manipulating bits and there are an entire set of operators the animations you wrote for CIRC02 by copying the code into this sketch and that help us out. Details on bitwise maths ( http://ardx.org/BITW ). changing all the digitalWrite()'s to changeLED()'s. Powerful? Very. (you'll also Our implementation. need to change a few other things but follow the compile errors and it works Replace the loop() code with itself out). int delayTime = 100; //the number of milliseconds //to delay Frustration? Shoot us an e-mail, this circuit is both simple and complex at the same time. We want to hear about problems you have so we can address them in future editions. help@oomlout.com Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE05 ) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) //Pin Definitions //The 74HC595 uses a serial communication //link which has three pins int data = 2; digitalWrite(latch, LOW); int clock = 3; int latch = 4; //Pulls the chips latch low shiftOut(data, clock, MSBFIRST, value); void setup() //runs once //Shifts out 8 bits to the shift register { pinMode(data, OUTPUT); pinMode(clock, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(latch, HIGH); pinMode(latch, OUTPUT); } //Pulls the latch high displaying the data } void loop() // run over and over again { ---------- More Code Online ---------- int delayTime = 100; //delay between LED updates for(int i = 0; i < 256; i++){ updateLEDs(i); delay(delayTime); } } /* * updateLEDs() - sends the LED states set * in value to the 74HC595 sequence */ void updateLEDs(int value){ NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 20. CIRC-06 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: Schematic Arduino pin 9 Piezo Element gnd (ground) (-) The Internet 18 .:Music:. .:Piezo Elements:. To this point we have controlled light, motion, and electrons. Let's tackle sound next. But sound is an analog phenomena, how will our digital Arduino cope? We will once again rely on its incredible speed which will let it mimic analog behavior. To do this, we will attach a piezo element to one of the Arduino's digital pins. A piezo element makes a clicking sound each time it is pulsed with current. If we pulse it at the right frequency (for example 440 times a second to make the note middle A) these clicks will run together to produce notes. Let's get to experimenting with it and get your Arduino playing "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star". Wire Piezo Element x1 2 Pin Header x4 CIRC-06 Breadboard Sheet x1 .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS06S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE06
- 21. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE06 ) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) /* Melody * (cleft) 2005 D. Cuartielles for K3 * digitalWrite(speakerPin, * This example uses a piezo speaker to play melodies. It sends LOW); * a square wave of the appropriate frequency to the piezo, delayMicroseconds(tone); * generating the corresponding tone. } * } * The calculation of the tones is made following the * mathematical operation: void playNote(char note, int duration) { * char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b', 'C' }; * timeHigh = period / 2 = 1 / (2 * toneFrequency) int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136, 1014, 956 * * where the different tones are described as in the table: }; * // play the tone corresponding to the note name * note frequency period timeHigh for (int i = 0; i < 8; i++) { * c 261 Hz 3830 1915 if (names[i] == note) { * d 294 Hz 3400 1700 playTone(tones[i], duration); * e 329 Hz 3038 1519 } * f 349 Hz 2864 1432 } * g 392 Hz 2550 1275 } * a 440 Hz 2272 1136 * b 493 Hz 2028 1014 void setup() { * C 523 Hz 1912 956 pinMode(speakerPin, OUTPUT); * } * http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Melody */ void loop() { int speakerPin = 9; if (notes[i] == ' ') { int length = 15; // the number of notes delay(beats[i] * tempo); // rest char notes[] = "ccggaagffeeddc "; // a space represents a rest } else { int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 4 }; playNote(notes[i], beats[i] * tempo); int tempo = 300; } void playTone(int tone, int duration) { delay(tempo / 2); } NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: CIRC-06 for (int i = 0; i < length; i++) { // pause between notes Tired of Twinkle Twinkle The code is written so you can easily add your own songs, check out the code below to 19 Can't Think While the Melody is Playing? Just pull up the piezo element whilst you think, upload your program then plug it back in. Little Star? get started. More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC06 No Sound Given the size and shape of the piezo element it is easy to miss the right holes on the breadboard. Try double checking its placement. Playing with the speed: char names[] = { 'c', 'd', 'e', 'f', 'g', 'a', 'b', The timing for each note is calculated based on 'C' }; int tones[] = { 1915, 1700, 1519, 1432, 1275, 1136, variables, as such we can tweak the sound of each note 1014, 956 }; or the timing. To change the speed of the melody you Composing your own melodies: need to change only one line. The program is pre-set to play 'Twinkle Twinkle Little Star' int tempo = 300; ---> int tempo = (new #) however the way it is programmed makes changing the song Change it to a larger number to slow the melody down, easy. Each song is defined in one int and two arrays, the int or a smaller number to speed it up. Tuning the notes: length defines the number of notes, the first array If you are worried about the notes being a little out of notes[] defines each note, and the second beats[] tune this can be fixed as well. The notes have been defines how long each note is played. Some Examples: calculated based on a formula in the comment block at Twinkle Twinkle Little Star int length = 15; the top of the program. But to tune individual notes just char notes[] = {"ccggaagffeeddc "}; int beats[] = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, adjust their values in the tones[] array up or down 1, 1, 2, 4 }; until they sound right. (each note is matched by its Happy Birthday (first line) int length = 13; name in the names[] (array ie. c = 1915 ) char notes[] = {"ccdcfeccdcgf "}; int beats[] = {1,1,1,1,1,2,1,1,1,1,1,2,4}; for (long i = 0; i < duration * 1000L; i += tone * 2) { } digitalWrite(speakerPin, HIGH); delayMicroseconds(tone);
- 22. CIRC-07 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: Schematic The Internet 20 .:Button Pressing:. .:Pushbuttons:. Up to this point we have focused entirely on outputs, time to get our Arduino to listen, watch and feel. We'll start with a simple pushbutton. Wiring up the pushbutton is simple. There is one component, the pull up resistor, that might seem out of place. This is included because an Arduino doesn't sense the same way we do (ie button pressed, button unpressed). Instead it looks at the voltage on the pin and decides whether it is HIGH or LOW. The button is set up to pull the Arduino's pin LOW when it is pressed, however, when the button is unpressed the voltage of the pin will float (causing occasional errors). To get the Arduino to reliably read the pin as HIGH when the button is unpressed, we add the pull up resistor. (note: the first example program uses only one of the two buttons) Wire Pushbutton x2 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x1 CIRC-07 Breadboard Sheet x1 Red LED x1 10k Ohm Resistor Brown-Black-Orange x2 Arduino pin 13 LED resistor (330 ohm) gnd (ground) (-) Arduino pin 2 pin 3 +5 volts resistor (pull-up) (10k ohm) pushbutton .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS07S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE07
- 23. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) Light Not Turning On The pushbutton is square and because of this it is easy to put it in the wrong way. Give it a 90 degree twist and MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: Light Not Fading A bit of a silly mistake we constantly made, when you switch from simple on off to fading remember to move the LED wire from pin 13 to pin 9. CIRC-07 No worries these circuits are all super stripped down to make playing with the components easy, but once you throw them together the sky is the limit. 21 File > Examples > 2.Digital > Button (example from the great arduino.cc site, check it out for other great ideas) /* * Button * by DojoDave <http://www.0j0.org> * * Turns on and off a light emitting diode(LED) connected to digital * pin 13, when pressing a pushbutton attached to pin 7. * http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Button */ int ledPin = 13; // choose the pin for the LED int inputPin = 2; // choose the input pin (for a pushbutton) int val = 0; // variable for reading the pin status void setup() { pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // declare LED as output pinMode(inputPin, INPUT); // declare pushbutton as input } void loop(){ val = digitalRead(inputPin); // read input value if (val == HIGH) { // check if the input is HIGH digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn LED OFF } else { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // turn LED ON } } Underwhelmed? More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC07 see if it starts working. On button off button: Fading up and down: The initial example may be a little underwhelming (ie. I Lets use the buttons to control an analog signal. To do this don't really need an Arduino to do this), let’s make it a you will need to change the wire connecting the LED from pin little more complicated. One button will turn the LED on 13 to pin 9, also change this in code. the other will turn the LED off. Change the code to: int ledPin = 13; ----> int ledPin = 9; int ledPin = 13; // choose the pin for the LED Next change the loop() code to read. int inputPin1 = 3; // button 1 int value = 0; int inputPin2 = 2; // button 2 void loop(){ if (digitalRead(inputPin1) == LOW) { value--; } void setup() { else if (digitalRead(inputPin2) == LOW) { value++; } pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // declare LED as output value = constrain(value, 0, 255); pinMode(inputPin1, INPUT); // make button 1 an input analogWrite(ledPin, value); pinMode(inputPin2, INPUT); // make button 2 an input delay(10); } } void loop(){ if (digitalRead(inputPin1) == LOW) { Changing fade speed: digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn LED OFF If you would like the LED to fade faster or slower, there is only } else if (digitalRead(inputPin2) == LOW) { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // turn LED ON one line of code that needs changing; } } delay(10); ----> delay(new #); Upload the program to your board, and start toggling the To fade faster make the number smaller, slower requires a LED on and off. larger number.
- 24. CIRC-08 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Schematic Potentiometer Parts: The Internet .:Twisting:. .:Potentiometers:. Along with the digital pins, the Arduino also has 6 pins which can be used for analog input. These inputs take a voltage (from 0 to 5 volts) and convert it to a digital number between 0 (0 volts) and 1024 (5 volts) (10 bits of resolution). A very useful device that exploits these inputs is a potentiometer (also called a variable resistor). When it is connected with 5 volts across its outer pins the middle pin will read some value between 0 and 5 volts dependent on the angle to which it is turned (ie. 2.5 volts in the middle). We can then use the returned values as a variable in our program. Potentiometer Wire 10k ohm x1 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x1 CIRC-08 Breadboard Sheet x1 Yellow LED x1 Arduino pin 13 LED (light emitting diode) resistor (330ohm) (orange-orange-brown) gnd (ground) (-) +5 volts Arduino analog pin 0 .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS08S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE08 22
- 25. CIRC-08 CODE (no need to type everything in just click) File > Examples > 3.Analog > AnalogInput (example from the great arduino.cc site, check it out for other great ideas) /* Analog Input * Demonstrates analog input by reading an analog sensor on analog * pin 0 and turning on and off a light emitting diode(LED) connected to digital pin 13. * The amount of time the LED will be on and off depends on the value obtained by * analogRead(). * Created by David Cuartielles * Modified 16 Jun 2009 * By Tom Igoe * http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/AnalogInput */ int sensorPin = 0; // select the input pin for the potentiometer int ledPin = 13; // select the pin for the LED int sensorValue = 0; // variable to store the value coming from the sensor void setup() { pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); //declare the ledPin as an OUTPUT: Not Working Make sure you haven't accidentally connected the potentiometer's wiper to digital pin 2 rather than analog pin 2. (the row of pins beneath the power pins) } void loop() { sensorValue = analogRead(sensorPin);// read the value from the sensor: digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // turn the ledPin on delay(sensorValue); // stop the program for <sensorValue> milliseconds: digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn the ledPin off: delay(sensorValue); // stop the program for for <sensorValue> milliseconds: } Sporadically Working This is most likely due to a slightly dodgy connection with the potentiometer's pins. This can usually be conquered by taping the potentiometer down. Threshold switching: Then change the loop code to. Sometimes you will want to switch an output when a value void loop() { int value = analogRead(potPin) / 4; exceeds a certain threshold. To do this with a analogWrite(ledPin, value); potentiometer change the } loop() code to. Upload the code and watch as your LED fades in relation to void loop() { int threshold = 512; your potentiometer spinning. (Note: the reason we divide the if(analogRead(sensorPin) > threshold){ value by 4 is the analogRead() function returns a value from 0 digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);} else{ digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);} to 1024 (10 bits), and analogWrite() takes a value from 0 to } 255 (8 bits) ) This will cause the LED to turn on when the value is above Controlling a servo: 512 (about halfway), you can adjust the sensitivity by This is a really neat example and brings a couple of circuits changing the threshold value. together. Wire up the servo like you did in CIRC-04, then open Fading: the example program Knob (File > Examples > Servo > Let’s control the brightness of an LED directly from the Knob ), then change one line of code. potentiometer. To do this we need to first change the pin int potpin = 0; ----> int potpin = 2; the LED is connected to. Move the wire from pin 13 to pin Upload to your Arduino and then watch as the servo shaft turns 9 and change one line in the code. as you turn the potentiometer. int ledPin = 13; ----> int ledPin = 9; More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC08 Still Backward You can try operating the circuit upside down. Sometimes this helps. 23 NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 26. CIRC-09 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: 24 .:Light:. .:Photo Resistors:. Whilst getting input from a potentiometer can be useful for human controlled experiments, what do we use when we want an environmentally controlled experiment? We use exactly the same principles but instead of a potentiometer (twist based resistance) we use a photo resistor (light based resistance). The Arduino cannot directly sense resistance (it senses voltage) so we set up a voltage divider (http://ardx.org/VODI). The exact voltage at the sensing pin is calculable, but for our purposes (just sensing relative light) we can experiment with the values and see what works for us. A low value will occur when the sensor is well lit while a high value will occur when it is in darkness. Wire Photo-Resistor x1 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x1 CIRC-09 Breadboard Sheet x1 Yellow LED x1 10k Ohm Resistor Brown-Black-Orange x1 Parts: Schematic Arduino pin 13 LED resistor (330ohm) gnd (ground) (-) +5 volts photo resistor Arduino analog pin 0 resistor (10k ohm) The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS09S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE09
- 27. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE09 ) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) CIRC-09 /* * A simple programme that will change the //output * intensity of an LED based on the amount of } * light incident on the photo resistor. /* * * loop() - this function will start after setup */ * finishes and then repeat //PhotoResistor Pin void loop() int lightPin = 0; //the analog pin the { //photoresistor is int lightLevel = analogRead(lightPin); //Read the //connected to // lightlevel //the photoresistor is not lightLevel = map(lightLevel, 0, 900, 0, 255); //calibrated to any units so //adjust the value 0 to 900 to 0 to 255 //this is simply a raw sensor lightLevel = constrain(lightLevel, 0, 255); //value (relative light) //make sure the value is betwween 0 and 255 //LED Pin analogWrite(ledPin, lightLevel); //write the value int ledPin = 9;//the pin the LED is connected to } NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) LED Remains Dark This is a mistake we continue to make time and time again, if only they could make an LED that worked both ways. Pull it MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: Still not quite working? You may be in a room which is either too bright or dark. Try turning the lights on or off to see if this helps. Or if you have a flashlight near by give that a try. */ It Isn't Responding to Changes in Light. Given that the spacing of the wires on the photo-resistor is not standard, it is easy to misplace it. Double check its in the right place. More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC09 up and give it a twist. Reverse the response: Light controlled servo: Perhaps you would like the opposite response. Don't Let's use our newly found light sensing skills to control a worry we can easily reverse this response just change: servo (and at the same time engage in a little bit of Arduino analogWrite(ledPin, lightLevel); ----> code hacking). Wire up a servo connected to pin 9 (like in analogWrite(ledPin, 255 - lightLevel); CIRC-04). Then open the Knob example program (the same Upload and watch the response change: one we used in CIRC-08) File > Examples > Servo > Night light: Knob. Upload the code to your board and watch as it works Rather than controlling the brightness of the LED in unmodified. response to light, let's instead turn it on or off based on Using the full range of your servo: You'll notice that the servo will only operate over a limited a threshold value. Change the loop() code with. void loop(){ portion of its range. This is because with the voltage dividing int threshold = 300; circuit we use the voltage on analog pin 0 will not range from if(analogRead(lightPin) > threshold){ digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); 0 to 5 volts but instead between two lesser values (these }else{ digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); values will change based on your setup). To fix this play with } the val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 179); line. For hints on what to } do visit http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/Map . //we are controlling brightness so //we use one of the PWM (pulse //width modulation pins) void setup() { pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); //sets the led pin to 25
- 28. CIRC-10 .:Temperature:. WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: Parts: 26 .:TMP36 Precision Temperature Sensor:. What's the next phenomena we will measure with our Arduino? Temperature. To do this we'll use a rather complicated IC (integrated circuit) hidden in a package identical to our P2N2222AG transistors. It has three pin's, ground, signal and +5 volts, and is easy to use. It outputs 10 millivolts per degree centigrade on the signal pin (to allow measuring temperatures below freezing there is a 500 mV offset eg. 25 ° C = 750 mV, 0 ° C = 500mV ). To convert this from the digital value to degrees, we will use some of the Arduino's math abilities. Then to display it we'll use one of the IDE's rather powerful features, the debug window. We'll output the value over a serial connection to display on the screen. Let's get to it. One extra note, this circuit uses the Arduino IDE's serial monitor. To open this, first upload the program then click the button which looks like a square with an antennae. The TMP36 Datasheet: http://ardx.org/TMP36 Wire TMP36 Temperature Sensor x1 2 Pin Header x4 CIRC-10 Breadboard Sheet x1 Schematic +5 volts TMP36 (precision temperature sensor) +5v signal the chip will have gnd (ground) (-) Arduino analog pin 0 gnd TMP36 printed on it The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS10S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE10
- 29. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) Download the Code from ( http://ardx.org/CODE10 ) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) /* --------------------------------------------- void loop() * | Arduino Experimentation Kit Example Code | // run over and over again * | CIRC-10 .: Temperature :. | { * --------------------------------------------- float temperature = getVoltage(temperaturePin); * //getting the voltage reading from the * A simple program to output the current temperature //temperature sensor * to the IDE's debug window * For more details on this circuit: temperature = (temperature - .5) * 100;//converting from 10 //TMP36 Pin Variables mv int temperaturePin = 0;//the analog pin the TMP36's //per degree wit 500 mV offset to //Vout pin is connected to //degrees ((volatge - 500mV) times //the resolution is //10 mV / degree centigrade 1 0 0 ) //(500 mV offset) to make Serial.println(temperature); //printing the result //negative temperatures an delay(1000); //waiting a second Gibberish is Displayed This happens because the serial monitor is receiving data at a different speed than expected. To fix this, click the pull-down box that reads "*** baud" and change it to "9600 baud". CIRC-10 Temperature Value is Serial.println(" degrees centigrade"); voltage we simply display the result of getVoltage(). The change to the first line means when we next output it delete the line temperature = (temperature - .5) * 100; w i ll a ppear on the same line, then we add the informative Outputting degrees Fahrenheit: text and a new line. Again this is a simple change requiring only math. To Changing the serial speed: go degrees C ----> degrees F we use the formula: If you ever wish to output a lot of data over the serial line ( F = C * 1.8) + 32 ) time is of the essence. We are currently transmitting at 9600 add the line baud but much faster speeds are possible. To change this temperature = before Serial.println(temperature); Serial.begin(9600); ----> Serial.begin(115200); Upload the sketch turn on the serial monitor, then change More informative output: the speed from 9600 baud to 115200 baud in the pull down Let's add a message to the serial output to make what 27 Nothing Seems to Happen This program has no outward indication it is working. To see the results you must open the Arduino IDE's serial monitor. (instructions on previous page) Outputting voltage: do this first revert to the original code then change: This is a simple matter of changing one line. Our Serial.println(temperature); ----> sensor outputs 10mv per degree centigrade so to get Serial.print(temperature); (((temperature - .5) * 100)*1.8) + 32; change the line: menu. You are now transmitting data 12 times faster. is appearing in the Serial Monitor more informative. To More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC10 Unchanging Try pinching the sensor with your fingers to heat it up or pressing a bag of ice against it to cool it down. } option /* void setup() * getVoltage() - returns the voltage on the analog input { * defined by pin Serial.begin(9600); //Start the serial connection */ //with the computer float getVoltage(int pin){ //to view the result open the return (analogRead(pin) * .004882814);//converting from a 0 //serial monitor //to 1024 digital range //last button beneath the file // to 0 to 5 volts //bar (looks like a box with an //(each 1 reading equals ~ 5 //antenna) } millivolts } NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE:
- 30. CIRC-11 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: com NO 28 .:Larger Loads:. .:Relays:. This next circuit is a bit of a test. We combine what we learned about using transistors in CIRC03 to control a relay. A relay is an electrically controlled mechanical switch. Inside the little plastic box is an electromagnet that, when energized, causes a switch to trip (often with a very satisfying clicking sound). You can buy relays that vary in size from a quarter of the size of the one in this kit up to as big as a fridge, each capable of switching a certain amount of current. They are immensely fun because there is an element of the physical to them. While all the silicon we've played with to this point is fun sometimes, you may just want to wire up a hundred switches to control something magnificent. Relays give you the ability to dream it up then control it with your Arduino. Now to using today's technology to control the past. (The 1N4001 diode is acting as a flyback diode, for details on why it's there visit: http://ardx.org/4001) Parts: CIRC-11 Breadboard Sheet x1 10k Ohm Resistor Brown-Black-Orange x1 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x2 Relay (SPDT) x1 Red LED x1 Schematic Arduino pin 2 resistor (10kohm) Base Transistor P2N2222AG Collector Emitter Diode (flyback) +5 volts gnd (ground) (-) Diode (1N4001) x1 the transistor will have P2N2222AG printed on it (some variations will have the pin assignment reversed) Transistor P2N2222AG (TO92) x1 Yellow LED x1 coil - NC The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS11S .:view:. assembly video http://ardx.org/VIDE11
- 31. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER CIRC-11 Not Quite Working The included relays are designed to be soldered rather than used in a breadboard. As such you may need to press it in to ensure it works (and it may pop out occasionally). Watch the Back-EMF Pulse Replace the diode with an LED. You’ll see it blink each time it “snubs” the coil voltage spike when it turns off. Controlling a Motor In CIRC-03 we controlled a motor using a transistor. However if you want to control a larger motor a relay is a good option. To do this simply remove the red LED, and connect the motor in its place (remember to bypass the 330 Ohm resistor). MORE, MORE, MORE: No Clicking Sound The transistor or coil portion of the circuit isn't quite working. Check the transistor is plugged in the right way. 29 File > Examples > 1.Basic > Blink (example from the great arduino.cc site, check it out for other great ideas) /* * Blink * * The basic Arduino example. Turns on an LED on for one second, * then off for one second, and so on... We use pin 13 because, * depending on your Arduino board, it has either a built-in LED * or a built-in resistor so that you need only an LED. * * http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink */ int ledPin = 2; // *********** CHANGE TO PIN 2 ************ void setup() // run once, when the sketch starts { pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // sets the digital pin as output } void loop() // run over and over again { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // sets the LED on delay(1000); // waits for a second digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // sets the LED off delay(1000); // waits for a second } More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://ardx.org/CIRC11 Nothing Happens The example code uses pin 13 and we have the relay connected to pin 2. Make sure you made this change in the code.
- 32. CIRC-12 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x3 2 Pin Header x4 CIRC-12 Breadboard Sheet x1 Parts: Schematic Arduino pin 11 pin 10 pin 9 The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS12 30 .:Colorful Light:. .:RGB LEDs:. When you first started with CIRC01 you were happy just to get a red LED blinking away. But you're past that now, right? You want orange, you want teal, you want aubergine! Fortunately there's a way to shine multiple colors from a single LED without having to stock up on every shade of the rainbow. To do this we use a RGB LED. An RGB LED isn't a single LED it's actually three LEDs in one small package: one Red, one Green and one Blue. When you turn them on their light mixes together and you get other colors. The color you get is a result of the intensity of the individual red, green and blue LEDs. We control the intensity with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) which we've used before to control LED brightness and motor speed. Wire 5mm RGB LED x1 resistor (330ohm) common (gnd) red green blue gnd blue green red longest lead flat side
- 33. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) /*Cycles through the colors of a RGB LED*/ NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: 31 Download the Code from (http://ardx.org/CODE12S) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) Seeing Red The red diode within the RGB LED may be a bit brighter than the other two. To make your colors more balanced, use a higher ohm resistor. Or adjust in code. analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redIntensity); to analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redIntensity/3); Looking For More? More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://sparkfun.com/RGB (shameless plug) If you’re looking to do more why not check out all the lovely extra bits and bobs available from http://www.SparkFun.com LED Remains Dark or Shows Incorrect Color With the four pins of the LED so close together, it’s sometimes easy to misplace one. Try double checking each pin is where it should be. // Cycle color from green through to blue // LED leads connected to PWM pins for (blueIntensity = 0; const int RED_LED_PIN = 9; blueIntensity <= 255; const int GREEN_LED_PIN = 10; blueIntensity+=5) { const int BLUE_LED_PIN = 11; greenIntensity = 255-blueIntensity; // Used to store the current intensity level analogWrite(BLUE_LED_PIN, blueIntensity); int redIntensity = 0; analogWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, greenIntensity); int greenIntensity = 0; delay(DISPLAY_TIME); int blueIntensity = 0; } // Length of time showing each color // Cycle cycle from blue through to red const int DISPLAY_TIME = 100; // milliseconds for (redIntensity = 0; redIntensity <= 255; void setup() { redIntensity+=5) { // No setup required. blueIntensity = 255-redIntensity; } analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redIntensity); analogWrite(BLUE_LED_PIN, blueIntensity); void loop() { delay(DISPLAY_TIME); // Cycle color from red through to green } for (greenIntensity = 0; } greenIntensity <= 255; greenIntensity+=5) { ---------- More Code Online ---------- redIntensity = 255-greenIntensity; analogWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, greenIntensity); analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redIntensity); delay(DISPLAY_TIME); } Using HTML-style color codes A land of diffusion If you're familiar with making web pages you One disadvantage of using a RGB LED made up of might prefer to specify colors using "hex triplets" three separate LEDs to generate our colors is that like you do when you use HTML and CSS. A hex sometimes it's possible to see the color of the triplet specifies a color using a series of letters individual lights. One way to workaround this is to find and numbers like `#FF0000` for red or a way to make the light more diffuse (or scattered) so `#800080` for purple. You can learn more about that the individual colors mix together better. The LED how this works on Wikipedia supplied with your kit is diffused rather than clear to (http://ardx.org/HEXCOL) and find a list of help improve the effectiveness of the color mixing. If colors with their associated hex triplets so you the light still isn't diffuse enough you can try putting don't need to work it out yourself. the LED behind some paper or acrylic; or inside a ping Download the code from: pong ball or polystyrene ball. http://ardx.org/RGBMB CIRC-12
- 34. 10k Ohm Resistor Brown-Black-Orange x1 2 Pin Header x4 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: CIRC-13 Breadboard Sheet x1 Parts: signal (white) gnd (black) The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS13S 32 .:Measuring Bends:. .:Flex Sensor:. In life it's important to be flexible. But what do you do if you want to measure how flexible an object is? You use a flex sensor. A flex sensor uses carbon on a strip of plastic to act like a variable resistor or potentiometer (CIRC-08) but instead of changing the resistance by turning a knob you change it by flexing (bending) the component. We use a "voltage divider" again (CIRC-08 & 09) to detect this change in resistance. The sensor bends in one direction and the more it bends the higher the resistance gets--it has a range from about 10K ohm to 35K ohm. In this circuit we will use the amount of bend of the flex sensor to control the position of a servo. Wire Flex Sensor x1 CIRC-13 3 Pin Header x1 Mini Servo x1 Schematic +5 volts flex sensor analog pin 0 resistor (10k ohm) pin 9 gnd (ground) (-) +5v (red) Mini Servo
- 35. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) CIRC-13 // Based on } // File > Examples > Servo > Knob // Controlling a servo position using a void loop() // potentiometer (variable resistor) { // by Michal Rinott // val = analogRead(potpin);// reads the value <http://people.interaction- // of the potentiometer NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) Servo Not Twisting? Even with colored wires it is still shockingly easy to plug a servo in backwards. This might be the case. MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: 33 Download the Code from (http://ardx.org/CODE13S) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) //(value between 0 and 1023) Servo Not Moving As Expected The sensor is only designed to work in one direction. Try flexing it the other way. (where the striped side faces in on a convex curve) More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://sparkfun.com/ Servo Moves Once You may need to modify the range of values in the call to the map() function (details in the making it better section below) ivrea.it/m.rinott> Serial.println(val); val = map(val, 50, 300, 0, 179); #include <Servo.h> // scale it to use it with the servo // (value between 0 and 180) Servo myservo; // create servo object to myservo.write(val); // sets the servo // control a servo // according to the // scaled value int potpin = 0; // analog pin used to // connect the delay(15); // waits for the servo // potentiometer // to get there int val; // variable to read the } //value from the analog pin void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); myservo.attach(9);// attaches the servo // servo on pin 9 to the servo object Calibrating the Range 300) value with the fully bent value. While the servo is now moving chances are its Applications range isn’t quite perfect. To adjust the range we With sensors the real fun comes in using them in neat need to change the values in the map() function. and un-expected ways here are a few of our favorite map(value, fromLow, fromHigh, toLow, toHigh) flex sensor applications. For full details on how it works: One Player Rock Paper Scissors Glove http://ardx.org/MAP A glove that lets you play RPS against yourself. http://ardx.org/RPS To calibrate our sensor we can use the debug window (like in CIRC-11). Open the debug Electronic Plant Brace window then replace the Monitor if your plant is bending towards light fromLow value (default 50) with the value displayed when the sensor is and fix it. http://ardg.org/BRACE un bent. Then replace the fromHigh (default
- 36. 2 Pin Header x4 330 Ohm Resistor Orange-Orange-Brown x3 WHAT WE’RE DOING: THE CIRCUIT: CIRC-14 Breadboard Sheet x1 Parts: Schematic Arduino pin 11 pin 10 pin 9 The Internet .:download:. breadboard layout sheet http://ardx.org/BBLS14S 34 .:Fancy Sensing:. .:Soft Potentiometer:. A "soft pot" (short for "soft potentiometer") is like a regular potentiometer of the style seen in CIRC-08 except, it's flat, really thin, flexible and doesn't have a knob. A potentiometer is also known as a "variable resistor" and for a soft pot the resistance it provides is determined by where pressure is applied. Pressure can be applied with your finger, a stylus or a hard plastic "wiper". By pressing down on various parts of the strip, the resistance varies from 100 to 10k Ohms allowing you to calculate the relative position on the strip. You can use this to track movement on the softpot or discrete "button style" presses. In this circuit we’ll use it to control the color of an RGB LED. Wire 5mm RGB LED x1 CIRC-14 Soft Potentiometer x1 resistor (330ohm) gnd blue green red longest lead +5 volts Arduino analog pin 0 wiper V+ gnd soft-pot
- 37. CODE (no need to type everything in just click) CIRC-14 // CIRC-14 Example Code int greenValue = constrain( // Will fade an RGB LED from Red-Green-Blue map(sensorValue, 0, 512, 0, 255),0,255)- // in relation to the soft pot value constrain( NOT WORKING? (3 things to try) MAKING IT BETTER MORE, MORE, MORE: 35 Download the Code from (http://ardx.org/CODE14S) (copy the text and paste it into an empty Arduino Sketch) Seeing Red The red diode within the RGB LED may be a bit brighter than the other two. To make your colors more balanced, use a higher ohm resistor. Or adjust in code. analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redValue); to analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redValue/3); More details, where to buy more parts, where to ask more questions: http://sparkfun.com/ Bizarre Results The most likely cause of this is if you’re pressing the potentiometer in more than one position. This is normal and can actually be used to create some neat results. LED Remains Dark or Shows Incorrect Color With the four pins of the LED so close together, it’s sometimes easy to misplace one. Try double checking each pin is where it should be. map(sensorValue, 512, 1023, 0, 255),0,255); // LED leads connected to PWM pins //calculate the green value (0-255 const int RED_LED_PIN = 9; //Red LED Pin //over 0-512 & 255-0 over 512-1023) const int GREEN_LED_PIN = 10; //Green LED Pin int blueValue = constrain( const int BLUE_LED_PIN = 11; //Blue LED Pin map(sensorValue, 512, 1023, 0, 255),0,255); //calculate the blue value 0-255 over //512-1023 void setup() { //no need for any code here // Display the requested color } analogWrite(RED_LED_PIN, redValue); analogWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, greenValue); void loop() { analogWrite(BLUE_LED_PIN, blueValue); int sensorValue = analogRead(0); } //read the Soft Pot int redValue = constrain( map(sensorValue, 0, 512, 255, 0),0,255); //calculate the red Value (255-0 //over the range 0-512) HSB Color (Hue, Saturation & Brightness) Now when you use the soft pot you’ll notice a much Our RGB LED displays colors using RGB color cleaner and fuller fade from red through to violet. codes. However this is often not the easiest way Faux Buttons of working with colors (as noted by the less than Because of the way the soft pot works it can also be reader friendly code above). A much more used to make custom buttons. To do this you define a intuitive system is HSB. range of values corresponding to a discrete button. Full Details: Use the code snippet below and the debug window to http://ardx.org/HSB determine desired values. To convert from RGB to HSB all that is required is some slightly complicated math. For an example if(analogRead(0) > minValue && analogRead(0) < maxValue){ program visit: buttonAction() http://ardx.org/CODE14MB } based on www.kasperkamperman.com's original Then cover the soft pot with a drawn/printed button code: http://ardx.org/KASP pattern
- 38. NOTE 36 notes .:Notes:. .:Room for a Few Notes:.
- 39. NOTE 37 notes .:Notes:. .:Room for a Few Notes:.
- 40. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported License To view a copy of this license visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ Or send a letter to: Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California 94105, USA.