116|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011
Dummy Slug
ESCAPE
Asfashionrevisits1970sMorocco
andmake-upiconBobbiBrown
turnstoMarrakechforher
A/W11beautyinspiration,
Harper’s Bazaarchecksintothe
citywhereeasternexoticism
meetsEuropeanelegance
majorelle
magical
Photography by LACHLAN BAILEY
words:louisenicholandrosenamckeown.Fashioneditor:AlastairMcKimm.Model:MarynaLinchuk
moments
260|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011 October 2011|Harper’s BAZAAR|261
arrakech might be
known as the red city,
but in Bazaar’s eyes it
would be more
accurate to describe it
as a perfect creamy pink, which just so happens
to be our favourite colour. Indeed, the
bohemian 1970s glamour that runs through
the autumn/winter collections steps straight
out of Morocco’s second city and its glamorous
heritage, marrying Parisian elegance with
African authenticity. As well as the rosy ochre-
hued buildings nestling at the foot of the snow-
capped Atlas mountains, drink in the vibrant
blue accents painted in homage to artist
Jacques Majorelle, whose blue-walled cactus
garden was saved by Yves Saint Laurent and
now hosts a memorial to the late designer as
well as his impressive Islamic art collection.
In the city centre, one-humped dromedaries
jostle with 1970s Mercedes-Benz cabs (which
are licensed to carry five passengers, so prepare
to be squeezed). Alternatively, take an elegant
horse-drawn carriage to the legendary Djemaa
El Fna square and marvel at the dramatic
Koutoubia mosque. The square leads to the
treasure-trove souks, where you can have your
own Sex and the City moment among the
leather, carpet and metalwork sellers (Bazaar
recommends visiting with a hotel-approved
guide). Here’s where to stay, shop and spa...
M
LA MAMOUNIA
Even the water flowing from the taps seems
laced with fragrance, such is the sensory
envelopment of La Mamounia. Five senses
hardly seem enough to fully experience this
mythical place, built in 1923 and renovated
over three years to reopen in 2009.
Your sense of sight is instantly soothed by
escaping into eight hectares of 18th century
gardens blooming with bougainvillea and
700-year-old olive trees, all tended to by the
green-jacketed Atelier Vert gardening team.
Even the gym, two converted squash courts
painted in the blue of Yves Saint Laurent’s
nearby Majorelle gardens, is a visual delight,
while an in-house Dior store is decorated with
pictures of traditional Berber dress. Every view
is chic, from the chocolate brown Havaianas
lying pool side, which are provided in guest
rooms, to the Moroccan artworks in the lobby.
The Berber craft techniques used in the
Jacques Garcia-designed interiors create surface
texture crying out to be touched, while outside
you’ll be caressed by the water in the swimming
pool, which is cleansed with ozone rather than
chlorine for a properly purifying dip. But for
the ultimate contact experience, opt for an
intense hammam ritual in Le Spa and emerge
as soft and fresh as a baby.
Smell is just as precious as sight and touch,
particularly in the spa, which has such a
heavenly scent that the temptation is to never
Bestfor... extremeluxury
stop inhaling. Indeed all public spaces are
scented with a signature fragrance created by
renowned nose Olivia Giacobetti. Delicious.
That the only sound is the occasional purr of
the hotel’s Daimler chauffeuring guests up to
the gate, and the light chirruping of birds
hopping from fountain to patio, is an
achievement in itself, given the hotel’s
proximity to Djemaa el Fna, the insanely
bustling square in the medina. Silence, a rare
commodity in Marrakech, is golden.
Finally, taste the lobster pastille at Le
Morocain restaurant for an haute cuisine take
on the local staple. Thirty types of vegetable
and 15 varieties of tomato are grown in the
grounds, so the hotel’s six eateries serve dishes
that are about as fresh and local as is possible.
Upon checking out, use your sixth sense to
foresee a return visit as soon as possible.
From Dhs3,000 a night (+212 524 388 600;
mamounia.com)
Also try:
ROYAL MANSOUR
Owned by His Majesty the King of Morocco,
the world’s first handmade hotel is made up of
a village of 53 private riads. Each riad is on
three storeys arranged around a courtyard with
a top floor tented roof with private heated
swimming pool. Chanel products are used in
the spa – we rest our case. From Dhs8,000 a
night (+212 5 29 80 80 80; royalmansour.com)
SECRET GARDEN
Part of the giant Palmeraie Golf Palace & Spa
complex, Secret Garden combines all the
mod cons and convenience of a super-resort
with the privacy and personal touches of a
private residence. Which means that your
live-in butler is not only available to serve up
sorbet while you bake by the private pool or
whip up any breakfast you desire, he can also
install Wi-Fi boosters in any of the villa’s
seven-plus rooms that you desire, all in the
blink of an eye. The 600sq-m residences
comfortably sleep six in three ensuite
double rooms, although you could
happily double that number and still
have room to spare, thanks to the lavish
majlis, library and spacious roof terrace
(complete with Jacuzzi). If you’re really
pushed for space, there’s also the in-villa
spa and hammam. Secret Garden is set
away from the main resort, tucked away at
the end of a long drive way, its entrance
concealed by a picturesque chandelier-lit
gateway framed by blue and white drapes.
So while you can observe the resort’s golf
course, a stone’s throw from your terrace,
you’re saved the post-round dissection in
the corridors and bars of the main hotel.
Bestfor...
boutiquechic
That said, the resort’s facilities, including a
world-class gym and spa and a happening
Nikki Beach franchise, are a mere golf buggy
hop away. The perfect compromise between
solitude and convenience? We think so. Villas
from Dhs5,370 a night including airport transfers
(+212 524 33 43 43; palmeraiemarrakech.com)
Also try:
lodge k
A tented Arabian nights dream property in the
heart of the Palmeraie palm grove with
exceptional mature gardens. Each of the five
rooms is a decadent luxury tent from 80 to
200sq-m, with fabulous ornate bathrooms.
The Lodge’s main salon and restaurant has
views over the impressive circular swimming
pool making it a really exclusive chill-out
destination. From Dhs1,500 a night (+212 660
15 39 24; lodgek.com)
Best...
partypalace
SOFITEL MARRAKECH PALAIS
IMPÉRIAL and SOFITEL
MARRAKECH LOUNGE & SPA
The perfect detox/retox destination,
Marrakech’s double-hitting Sofitel property
combines the pool-centric Palais Impérial,
where well-heeled locals come to pose and play,
and the more zen Lounge & Spa, where they
recover the next day. Start your day with lunch
at the Palais pool where a trio of classical
guitarists segue into dance tracks at the zenith
of afternoon before fading into chill out tunes
as the sun sets over the Atlas mountains.
After dark, the pretty people descend on
‘For the ultimate contact
experience opt for an intense
hammam ritual in the spa
at La Mamounia’
Princess Lalla Soukaïna Filali
and her mother Lalla
Meryem (below) are
becoming international style
icons, thanks to their exquisite
way with a kaftan. Get the
Moroccan look with these
inspired finds.
INTO THE
BLUE Le Spa at
La Mamounia is
feted for its world
class facilities
HOME
COMFORTS
Secret Garden
provides a perfectly
private retreat
kaleidoscopic
NIGHTS Sofitel
Marrakech Palais
Imperial (above)
provides the perfect
backdrop for parties
escape
Terra Indigo
palette, Dhs270,
Guerlain
Suitcase,
Dhs13,950,
Tod’s
Argan oil,
Dhs125,
Kiehl’s
Berberbuys
Moroccan bag,
Dhs800,
Day Birger et
Mikkelsen
afp/gettyimages
Desert Plum
lipstick,
Dhs130,
Bobbi
Brown (from
November)
➤
262|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011 October 2011|Harper’s BAZAAR|263
So Night Lounge for live music in a multi-level
venue with loungey white tables and sofas. At
the opposite end of the hedonism scale, the Spa
half of the hotel is an altogether more chill
proposition. With an impressive art gallery and
book shop, its focus is more cerebral than
celebratory and the neutral toned décor is
especially reviving after the red and gold of the
Palais. The starlight-sprinkled entrance to
Le Spa heralds a space where mind and body
will be eased back to bliss. Opt for the
traditional hammam, Dhs275, to really blitz
out the bad stuff. A steam bath is followed by a
body scrub with traditional black soap made
with olive paste and bay leaves to moisturise
the skin and prepare it for exfoliation with a
traditional glove. For an extra treat, ask for the
Ghassoul wrap to really replenish skin with
minerals. From Dhs730 a night (+212 524 42
56 00; sofitel.com)
Also try:
bab hotel
A funky design hotel in the heart of Marrakech’s
new town, the décor mixes Moroccan artisans
with Miami chic and its DJ bar and restaurant
is one of the most hip nightspots in town. The
hotel has a spa in the basement, boutique and
library on the ground floor, courtyard
swimming pool and rooftop cocktail venue,
Skybab. From Dhs805 a night (+212 524 43 52
50; babhotelmarrakech.com)
Bestfor...family
FourSeasonsmarrakech
Because this is a Four Seasons property you
know you’re getting a classy, considered resort
– perfect for calming down excitable children
after the chaos of nearby Djemaa El Fna
square. With clay tennis courts, two pools –
one for adults and one for families – and a
dedicated Kids for all Seasons club for little
ones, Four Seasons is the perfect base from
which to explore the cultural cacophony of
Marrakech en famille, while still squeezing in
time to relax, safe in the knowledge that the
children are having a wonderful time in the
Insider’s
viewRosena and Fred McKeown,
owners of concierge firm
Boutique Souk, have lived in
Marrakech for 10 years and
reveal their top tips
escape
hands of the hotel’s enthusiastic staff. Set over
a whopping 40 acres, the hotel is filled with
walkways, courtyards and arcades, designed to
mirror the maze-like interior of the medina.
Book a horse-drawn carriage tour and be
collected from the lobby by your guide who
will accompany you to the square, hopping off
to delve into the incredible metalwork, lighting
and textiles shops by foot. The souks offer layer
upon layer to explore, and having a guide who
knows the ins and outs makes an enormous
difference. Fortunately, Four Seasons’ concierge
knows the best in the business. Extravagantly
dressed water sellers, eerie snake charmers and
colourful monkey handlers may look intriguing
but all will be after your dirhams in the flash of
a camera. Don’t be perturbed by the constant
jangling of coins, however, it doesn’t come
from beggars but heralds men selling individual
cigarettes to those trying to cut back on the
smokes by not buying full packs. If the street
food of the square does not appeal, drive back
to the hotel for dinner at Bleu d’Orange and a
taste of Southern France, then head upstairs for
drinks at rooftop bar Zest once the kids have
gone to bed. From Dhs1,960 a night (+212 524
359 200; fourseasons.com/marrakech)
  
Also try:
riad dar karma
Book all six of the bedrooms in Dar Karma for
an indulgent family escape. Located in the
ancient Kasbah district of Marrakech’s old
town, the riad has been beautifully restored
with many original features, spectacular
ceilings, doors and columns, so you can be sure
the kids are getting a feel for authentic
Morocco. Individual rooms from Dhs500 a
night (+212 524 38 58 78; dar-karma.com) n
ART OF CALM
The Four Seasons
Marrakech
is a haven of
relaxation
‘Have your own Sex and the City
moment among the leather, carpet and
metalwork sellers in the treasure trove souks’
Where to eat
n For romantic dining head to
Le Fondouk. Located in a beautifully
restored riad in the heart of the medina,
this contemporary Moroccan restaurant
has a menu with a mix of French and
Moroccan cuisine; the service is
impeccable and décor intimate yet chic.
In summer, dining on the roof is a must.
(+212 524 37 81 90; fondouk.com)
n For atmosphere, people watching and great
music the hot spot in town is Le Comptoir,
the Momo of Marrakech. Every night there is
traditional music, oriental dancers and then
cool tunes to 1am from the resident DJ and
often some special guests (Claude Challe of
Buddha Bar regularly pops up behind the
decks). There are both Moroccan and French
options on the menu and guaranteed
ambience every night of the week. Don’t miss
the very cool boutique, Kulchi, in the garden.
(+212 524 437 702; comptoirmarrakech.com)
n Bô&Zin, on the Route de l’Ourika, has a
very Ibizan vibe. It is a very stylish restaurant
that is host to many parties. There are Thai,
French and Moroccan menu dishes and it is
open seven nights a week. Saturday night is
always rocking for cocktails and dancing the
night away in the hip garden bar.
(+212 524 388 012; bo-zin.com)
n A romantic rendezvous for design lovers,
Le Crystal, the French fine dining
restaurant at Pacha, offers great gastronomic
food in a stunning dining room. The menu
designed by the Pourcel brothers has a range
of French/world food options and the
environment is very relaxed chic. (+212 524
38 8400; crystal.pachamarrakech.com)
n Le Grand Cafe de La Poste in Gueliz,
the new town, is a colonial style French
brasserie and the number one meeting place
for the fashionable Marrakech set. Open from
8am for breakfast until after midnight for
dinner, its upstairs bar lounge has a DJ every
evening and is an ideal spot for a relaxed
drink. (+212 524 43 30 38;
grandcafedelaposte.com)
Where to shop
1. Ministero de Gusto
Alessandra Lippini, a former editor of Italian
Vogue, curates great vintage jewellery and
accessories, including gorgeous Chanel,
Pucci and Yves Saint Laurent. The gallery is a
truly funky space and Alessandra and her
architect partner Fabrizio are two of the city’s
most charming and interesting people. (+212
24 42 64 55; ministerodelgusto.com)
2. Atelier Moro
Owned by Colombian ex-pat
Vivianna Gonzalez, Atelier Moro is
an eclectic mix of traditional
Moroccan clothes and
accessories, with some
Colombian and world travel finds.
Look for number 114 on Place de
Mouassine and knock to gain
access to the second floor store.
(+212 24 39 16 78)
 3. Akbar Delights
The first foreign-owned store in
Marrakech’s souks, this is a seriously
luxurious collection; many of the tunics and
coats are made of imported silks
but all made locally by top
artisans. Over in the new
city, Akbar also has a
showroom by private
appointment and a
diffusion line boutique
called Moor selling
beautiful cotton tunics
and djellabas. (+212
671 66 13 07;
akbardelights.com)
4. 33 Rue
Majorelle
Opposite Yves Saint
Laurent’s Majorelle
gardens, this is a hot
new concept store with
a carefully edited
collection of some of
the best Moroccan
designers – djellabas,
accessories and small
furnishings – excellent!
(+212 524 31 41 95; 33ruemajorelle.com)
5. Fadila el Gadi
Fadila el Gadi is perhaps the foremost
designer of contemporary Moroccan
womenswear. Her very beautiful work is on
show at a private showroom in the new city.
(+212 537 81 16 29; fadilaelgadi.com)
6. Mustapha Blaoui
The Moroccan Ikea! This is an Aladdin’s cave
of homewares, really worth a visit especially
with his newly extended showroom.
(+212 524 385 240; 142-4 Bab Doukkala)
SOUK IT UP
Fred and Rosena
McKeown at their
home in Marrakech
Shops in the souk within the
medina are open from 9am
to around 8 or 9pm.
Avoid shopping on Fridays
when businesses close
up for prayer.
Insider
tip
Luxurious
tunics at
Akbar
Ministero de
Gusto is owned
by a former
Vogue editor
Emirates operates daily flights
to Casablanca for around
Dhs4,380 return. Arrange a hotel
transfer for the two-hour drive
to Marrakech from around
Dhs750 each way.
Getting
there
lachlanbailey

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Bazar Arabia kim Kardashian in LodgeK Marrakech

  • 1. 116|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011 Dummy Slug ESCAPE Asfashionrevisits1970sMorocco andmake-upiconBobbiBrown turnstoMarrakechforher A/W11beautyinspiration, Harper’s Bazaarchecksintothe citywhereeasternexoticism meetsEuropeanelegance majorelle magical Photography by LACHLAN BAILEY words:louisenicholandrosenamckeown.Fashioneditor:AlastairMcKimm.Model:MarynaLinchuk moments
  • 2. 260|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011 October 2011|Harper’s BAZAAR|261 arrakech might be known as the red city, but in Bazaar’s eyes it would be more accurate to describe it as a perfect creamy pink, which just so happens to be our favourite colour. Indeed, the bohemian 1970s glamour that runs through the autumn/winter collections steps straight out of Morocco’s second city and its glamorous heritage, marrying Parisian elegance with African authenticity. As well as the rosy ochre- hued buildings nestling at the foot of the snow- capped Atlas mountains, drink in the vibrant blue accents painted in homage to artist Jacques Majorelle, whose blue-walled cactus garden was saved by Yves Saint Laurent and now hosts a memorial to the late designer as well as his impressive Islamic art collection. In the city centre, one-humped dromedaries jostle with 1970s Mercedes-Benz cabs (which are licensed to carry five passengers, so prepare to be squeezed). Alternatively, take an elegant horse-drawn carriage to the legendary Djemaa El Fna square and marvel at the dramatic Koutoubia mosque. The square leads to the treasure-trove souks, where you can have your own Sex and the City moment among the leather, carpet and metalwork sellers (Bazaar recommends visiting with a hotel-approved guide). Here’s where to stay, shop and spa... M LA MAMOUNIA Even the water flowing from the taps seems laced with fragrance, such is the sensory envelopment of La Mamounia. Five senses hardly seem enough to fully experience this mythical place, built in 1923 and renovated over three years to reopen in 2009. Your sense of sight is instantly soothed by escaping into eight hectares of 18th century gardens blooming with bougainvillea and 700-year-old olive trees, all tended to by the green-jacketed Atelier Vert gardening team. Even the gym, two converted squash courts painted in the blue of Yves Saint Laurent’s nearby Majorelle gardens, is a visual delight, while an in-house Dior store is decorated with pictures of traditional Berber dress. Every view is chic, from the chocolate brown Havaianas lying pool side, which are provided in guest rooms, to the Moroccan artworks in the lobby. The Berber craft techniques used in the Jacques Garcia-designed interiors create surface texture crying out to be touched, while outside you’ll be caressed by the water in the swimming pool, which is cleansed with ozone rather than chlorine for a properly purifying dip. But for the ultimate contact experience, opt for an intense hammam ritual in Le Spa and emerge as soft and fresh as a baby. Smell is just as precious as sight and touch, particularly in the spa, which has such a heavenly scent that the temptation is to never Bestfor... extremeluxury stop inhaling. Indeed all public spaces are scented with a signature fragrance created by renowned nose Olivia Giacobetti. Delicious. That the only sound is the occasional purr of the hotel’s Daimler chauffeuring guests up to the gate, and the light chirruping of birds hopping from fountain to patio, is an achievement in itself, given the hotel’s proximity to Djemaa el Fna, the insanely bustling square in the medina. Silence, a rare commodity in Marrakech, is golden. Finally, taste the lobster pastille at Le Morocain restaurant for an haute cuisine take on the local staple. Thirty types of vegetable and 15 varieties of tomato are grown in the grounds, so the hotel’s six eateries serve dishes that are about as fresh and local as is possible. Upon checking out, use your sixth sense to foresee a return visit as soon as possible. From Dhs3,000 a night (+212 524 388 600; mamounia.com) Also try: ROYAL MANSOUR Owned by His Majesty the King of Morocco, the world’s first handmade hotel is made up of a village of 53 private riads. Each riad is on three storeys arranged around a courtyard with a top floor tented roof with private heated swimming pool. Chanel products are used in the spa – we rest our case. From Dhs8,000 a night (+212 5 29 80 80 80; royalmansour.com) SECRET GARDEN Part of the giant Palmeraie Golf Palace & Spa complex, Secret Garden combines all the mod cons and convenience of a super-resort with the privacy and personal touches of a private residence. Which means that your live-in butler is not only available to serve up sorbet while you bake by the private pool or whip up any breakfast you desire, he can also install Wi-Fi boosters in any of the villa’s seven-plus rooms that you desire, all in the blink of an eye. The 600sq-m residences comfortably sleep six in three ensuite double rooms, although you could happily double that number and still have room to spare, thanks to the lavish majlis, library and spacious roof terrace (complete with Jacuzzi). If you’re really pushed for space, there’s also the in-villa spa and hammam. Secret Garden is set away from the main resort, tucked away at the end of a long drive way, its entrance concealed by a picturesque chandelier-lit gateway framed by blue and white drapes. So while you can observe the resort’s golf course, a stone’s throw from your terrace, you’re saved the post-round dissection in the corridors and bars of the main hotel. Bestfor... boutiquechic That said, the resort’s facilities, including a world-class gym and spa and a happening Nikki Beach franchise, are a mere golf buggy hop away. The perfect compromise between solitude and convenience? We think so. Villas from Dhs5,370 a night including airport transfers (+212 524 33 43 43; palmeraiemarrakech.com) Also try: lodge k A tented Arabian nights dream property in the heart of the Palmeraie palm grove with exceptional mature gardens. Each of the five rooms is a decadent luxury tent from 80 to 200sq-m, with fabulous ornate bathrooms. The Lodge’s main salon and restaurant has views over the impressive circular swimming pool making it a really exclusive chill-out destination. From Dhs1,500 a night (+212 660 15 39 24; lodgek.com) Best... partypalace SOFITEL MARRAKECH PALAIS IMPÉRIAL and SOFITEL MARRAKECH LOUNGE & SPA The perfect detox/retox destination, Marrakech’s double-hitting Sofitel property combines the pool-centric Palais Impérial, where well-heeled locals come to pose and play, and the more zen Lounge & Spa, where they recover the next day. Start your day with lunch at the Palais pool where a trio of classical guitarists segue into dance tracks at the zenith of afternoon before fading into chill out tunes as the sun sets over the Atlas mountains. After dark, the pretty people descend on ‘For the ultimate contact experience opt for an intense hammam ritual in the spa at La Mamounia’ Princess Lalla Soukaïna Filali and her mother Lalla Meryem (below) are becoming international style icons, thanks to their exquisite way with a kaftan. Get the Moroccan look with these inspired finds. INTO THE BLUE Le Spa at La Mamounia is feted for its world class facilities HOME COMFORTS Secret Garden provides a perfectly private retreat kaleidoscopic NIGHTS Sofitel Marrakech Palais Imperial (above) provides the perfect backdrop for parties escape Terra Indigo palette, Dhs270, Guerlain Suitcase, Dhs13,950, Tod’s Argan oil, Dhs125, Kiehl’s Berberbuys Moroccan bag, Dhs800, Day Birger et Mikkelsen afp/gettyimages Desert Plum lipstick, Dhs130, Bobbi Brown (from November) ➤
  • 3. 262|Harper’s BAZAAR|October 2011 October 2011|Harper’s BAZAAR|263 So Night Lounge for live music in a multi-level venue with loungey white tables and sofas. At the opposite end of the hedonism scale, the Spa half of the hotel is an altogether more chill proposition. With an impressive art gallery and book shop, its focus is more cerebral than celebratory and the neutral toned décor is especially reviving after the red and gold of the Palais. The starlight-sprinkled entrance to Le Spa heralds a space where mind and body will be eased back to bliss. Opt for the traditional hammam, Dhs275, to really blitz out the bad stuff. A steam bath is followed by a body scrub with traditional black soap made with olive paste and bay leaves to moisturise the skin and prepare it for exfoliation with a traditional glove. For an extra treat, ask for the Ghassoul wrap to really replenish skin with minerals. From Dhs730 a night (+212 524 42 56 00; sofitel.com) Also try: bab hotel A funky design hotel in the heart of Marrakech’s new town, the décor mixes Moroccan artisans with Miami chic and its DJ bar and restaurant is one of the most hip nightspots in town. The hotel has a spa in the basement, boutique and library on the ground floor, courtyard swimming pool and rooftop cocktail venue, Skybab. From Dhs805 a night (+212 524 43 52 50; babhotelmarrakech.com) Bestfor...family FourSeasonsmarrakech Because this is a Four Seasons property you know you’re getting a classy, considered resort – perfect for calming down excitable children after the chaos of nearby Djemaa El Fna square. With clay tennis courts, two pools – one for adults and one for families – and a dedicated Kids for all Seasons club for little ones, Four Seasons is the perfect base from which to explore the cultural cacophony of Marrakech en famille, while still squeezing in time to relax, safe in the knowledge that the children are having a wonderful time in the Insider’s viewRosena and Fred McKeown, owners of concierge firm Boutique Souk, have lived in Marrakech for 10 years and reveal their top tips escape hands of the hotel’s enthusiastic staff. Set over a whopping 40 acres, the hotel is filled with walkways, courtyards and arcades, designed to mirror the maze-like interior of the medina. Book a horse-drawn carriage tour and be collected from the lobby by your guide who will accompany you to the square, hopping off to delve into the incredible metalwork, lighting and textiles shops by foot. The souks offer layer upon layer to explore, and having a guide who knows the ins and outs makes an enormous difference. Fortunately, Four Seasons’ concierge knows the best in the business. Extravagantly dressed water sellers, eerie snake charmers and colourful monkey handlers may look intriguing but all will be after your dirhams in the flash of a camera. Don’t be perturbed by the constant jangling of coins, however, it doesn’t come from beggars but heralds men selling individual cigarettes to those trying to cut back on the smokes by not buying full packs. If the street food of the square does not appeal, drive back to the hotel for dinner at Bleu d’Orange and a taste of Southern France, then head upstairs for drinks at rooftop bar Zest once the kids have gone to bed. From Dhs1,960 a night (+212 524 359 200; fourseasons.com/marrakech)    Also try: riad dar karma Book all six of the bedrooms in Dar Karma for an indulgent family escape. Located in the ancient Kasbah district of Marrakech’s old town, the riad has been beautifully restored with many original features, spectacular ceilings, doors and columns, so you can be sure the kids are getting a feel for authentic Morocco. Individual rooms from Dhs500 a night (+212 524 38 58 78; dar-karma.com) n ART OF CALM The Four Seasons Marrakech is a haven of relaxation ‘Have your own Sex and the City moment among the leather, carpet and metalwork sellers in the treasure trove souks’ Where to eat n For romantic dining head to Le Fondouk. Located in a beautifully restored riad in the heart of the medina, this contemporary Moroccan restaurant has a menu with a mix of French and Moroccan cuisine; the service is impeccable and décor intimate yet chic. In summer, dining on the roof is a must. (+212 524 37 81 90; fondouk.com) n For atmosphere, people watching and great music the hot spot in town is Le Comptoir, the Momo of Marrakech. Every night there is traditional music, oriental dancers and then cool tunes to 1am from the resident DJ and often some special guests (Claude Challe of Buddha Bar regularly pops up behind the decks). There are both Moroccan and French options on the menu and guaranteed ambience every night of the week. Don’t miss the very cool boutique, Kulchi, in the garden. (+212 524 437 702; comptoirmarrakech.com) n Bô&Zin, on the Route de l’Ourika, has a very Ibizan vibe. It is a very stylish restaurant that is host to many parties. There are Thai, French and Moroccan menu dishes and it is open seven nights a week. Saturday night is always rocking for cocktails and dancing the night away in the hip garden bar. (+212 524 388 012; bo-zin.com) n A romantic rendezvous for design lovers, Le Crystal, the French fine dining restaurant at Pacha, offers great gastronomic food in a stunning dining room. The menu designed by the Pourcel brothers has a range of French/world food options and the environment is very relaxed chic. (+212 524 38 8400; crystal.pachamarrakech.com) n Le Grand Cafe de La Poste in Gueliz, the new town, is a colonial style French brasserie and the number one meeting place for the fashionable Marrakech set. Open from 8am for breakfast until after midnight for dinner, its upstairs bar lounge has a DJ every evening and is an ideal spot for a relaxed drink. (+212 524 43 30 38; grandcafedelaposte.com) Where to shop 1. Ministero de Gusto Alessandra Lippini, a former editor of Italian Vogue, curates great vintage jewellery and accessories, including gorgeous Chanel, Pucci and Yves Saint Laurent. The gallery is a truly funky space and Alessandra and her architect partner Fabrizio are two of the city’s most charming and interesting people. (+212 24 42 64 55; ministerodelgusto.com) 2. Atelier Moro Owned by Colombian ex-pat Vivianna Gonzalez, Atelier Moro is an eclectic mix of traditional Moroccan clothes and accessories, with some Colombian and world travel finds. Look for number 114 on Place de Mouassine and knock to gain access to the second floor store. (+212 24 39 16 78)  3. Akbar Delights The first foreign-owned store in Marrakech’s souks, this is a seriously luxurious collection; many of the tunics and coats are made of imported silks but all made locally by top artisans. Over in the new city, Akbar also has a showroom by private appointment and a diffusion line boutique called Moor selling beautiful cotton tunics and djellabas. (+212 671 66 13 07; akbardelights.com) 4. 33 Rue Majorelle Opposite Yves Saint Laurent’s Majorelle gardens, this is a hot new concept store with a carefully edited collection of some of the best Moroccan designers – djellabas, accessories and small furnishings – excellent! (+212 524 31 41 95; 33ruemajorelle.com) 5. Fadila el Gadi Fadila el Gadi is perhaps the foremost designer of contemporary Moroccan womenswear. Her very beautiful work is on show at a private showroom in the new city. (+212 537 81 16 29; fadilaelgadi.com) 6. Mustapha Blaoui The Moroccan Ikea! This is an Aladdin’s cave of homewares, really worth a visit especially with his newly extended showroom. (+212 524 385 240; 142-4 Bab Doukkala) SOUK IT UP Fred and Rosena McKeown at their home in Marrakech Shops in the souk within the medina are open from 9am to around 8 or 9pm. Avoid shopping on Fridays when businesses close up for prayer. Insider tip Luxurious tunics at Akbar Ministero de Gusto is owned by a former Vogue editor Emirates operates daily flights to Casablanca for around Dhs4,380 return. Arrange a hotel transfer for the two-hour drive to Marrakech from around Dhs750 each way. Getting there lachlanbailey