Cocoa
- 1. fresh outlook COCOA I Should Cocoa sometimes used, but in general smallholders still carry out the process manually. Case study: Cafédirect After they’ve been opened, the beans Cafédirect was founded in 1991 and is the and their surrounding pulp are extracted UK’s largest 100 per cent Fairtrade hot drinks from the pods and piled together to allow company. They have direct trading with 37 micro-organisms such as yeast to develop, Fairtrade-registered grower organisations across initiating fermentation. The yeasts convert the 12 countries. What sets them apart from other Nikki Haynes finishes her series on the nation’s favourite hot drinks with a sugars in the pulp to alcohol, carbon dioxide and water, and this process produces heat, Fairtrade companies is that their growers hold shares in the company, sit on the board of warming mug of something sweet . . . which helps the cell wall of the beans break directors and have a say in how the business is PHOTOGRAPHY CAFÉDIRECT AND GREEN&BLACK’S | RECIPE PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON WALTON | RECIPES AND STYLING NADIA ARUMUGAM down, allowing certain chemical reactions to run. They work with small-scale growers who get take place that enhance the natural flavour paid fair prices; for example cocoa prices are set and colour of the bean. After fermentation D by taking the world market price and adding a IDN’T YOU know? These discovered that adding milk made it infinitely northern areas of South America but the the beans are dried, either by the sun or premium. The growers are also able to develop days, hot chocolate isn’t just more palatable. largest producing countries are Côte d’Ivoire, artificially; it’s generally believed that sun- their business, from 2003 to 2006 Cafédirect for kids. Rich, indulgent Ghana and Indonesia. Two to three years after dried beans are the best quality. The moisture reinvested about 60 per cent of its profits into cocoas aimed specifically Planting gold planting, the cocoa trees will start to flower. content is reduced from about 60 per cent to the growers’ businesses through training and at adults are becoming Cocoa is only grown and produced in The developing fruit is called the ‘cherelle’ seven and a half at this point. development programmes. Dominican Republic more and more popular and it’s your choice countries near the equator (within 10° north and it takes about six months from pollination farmer Eusebio Bellen said: “With the Fairtrade whether you add a little bit of chilli to give and 10° south), or in the Tropics of Cancer for the cocoa pods to be ready for harvesting. From bean to chocolate certification, not only do we as growers receive direct benefits, but the community also it some oomph, drink it straight, or for the and Capricorn. This region of tropical The best way to open the ripe, rugby ball- Beans are cleaned and then roasted. The benefits as a whole. Moreover, we have been able to establish a direct relationship with sweet-toothed out there (like me), add a rainforest is the perfect habitat for the plant; shaped pods is to use a wooden club to temperature, time and degree of moisture Cafédirect, which is very important to us.” generous helping of whipped cream and a moist, windless climate with constant split the fruit in half; machetes are also used involved all depends on the type of beans For more information visit www.cafedirect.co.uk marshmallows. With brands such as Green & warmth. The oldest plantations are in the but often damage the beans. Machinery is used and also what sort of chocolate they are Black’s, Whittard of Chelsea and Cafédirect going to produce. providing the dark magic, these hot A winnowing machine is used to remove chocolates are strictly for grown-ups only. Case study: Green & Black’s the shells from the beans, leaving cocoa nibs. Green & Black’s has always been a brand The nibs are milled to make cocoa liquor Mayan origins synonymous with high quality. All their (cocoa particles in cocoa butter). Cocoa has always been an important products are organic and certified by the Soil The liquor is pressed to extract the cocoa commodity; it is thought to have been a Association, the UK’s leading organic certifier. butter, leaving a solid mass called cocoa favourite of the Mayan traders of Central They source their cocoa principally from presscake. The butter is used to make America as early as 400 BC. The Aztecs placed Belize and the Dominican Republic, where chocolate and the presscake is broken up and much emphasis on the sanctity of cocoa, both it’s grown using sustainable and bio-diverse sieved to make cocoa powder. as a drink and as a currency: an early visitor farming methods, thus supporting a balanced To make chocolate, other ingredients such found out that four cocoa beans could buy ecosystem as well as not adding any chemicals as sugar and milk are added to the cocoa you a pumpkin, 10 a rabbit and 100 a slave! to the natural environment. They believe that, butter. The mixture is then refined by a series Once visiting merchants discovered its value, by treating their ingredients this way, they will produce a better overall result. They also of rollers to make a smooth paste. they began to trade it for cloth and jewels. encourage the cocoa farmers of Belize by supporting the Toledo Cacao Growers Association The paste goes through conching; a The sweet, indulgent drink that we so love (TCGA). Toledo is one of the poorest areas in Belize and the company is keen to help the local kneading or smoothing process, which affects today isn’t what they enjoyed in those days; community to provide a better way of life for the future. the flavour and texture of the product. the original was made with roasted cocoa For more information visit www.greenandblacks.com beans, water and spices, giving a foamy, fragrant and bitter beverage. The first foreigner to drink cocoa is said to have been Christopher Columbus on reaching Nicaragua in 1502, but it was Hernán Cortés (who instigated the conquest of the Aztec empire and was also part of the Spanish It then goes through a heating, cooling and Cocoa is rich in explorers who colonised the Americas) in reheating process to prevent discolouration 1528, who returned to Spain with the recipe and unsightly ‘fat bloom’. antioxidants, which help for xocoatl (chocolate drink). Chocolate didn’t The chocolate can then be packaged. to keep us healthy reach England till the 1650s and because of the high import duties it was very expensive, Cocoa delight but recent research shows that the higher the so consumption was confined to the upper From ancient Mayans and British aristocracy cocoa content, the better chocolate is for you. classes. In 1657 London’s first Chocolate to children on the streets around the world, Cocoa is rich in antioxidants, which help to House, run by a Frenchman, opened. cocoa has been loved for thousands of years. keep us healthy and protect the body against The drink was still quite bitter compared Over time our tastes have developed and various diseases, including cancer. As if we to today’s standards, but in 1700 they our palates now crave a sweeter chocolate, ever needed an excuse to eat chocolate! 82 fresh www.fresh-magazine.co.uk www.fresh-magazine.co.uk fresh 83
- 2. Spiced Jaffa Hot Cocoa v Makes 2 large mugs Prep 2 minutes + 30 minutes to infuse Cook 5 minutes 500ml / 18fl oz cold milk, ideally full-fat 5tbsp good quality cocoa powder Zest 1 large orange Tiny pinch of chilli flakes 6tbsp soft brown sugar 2 long cinnamon sticks, to serve 1 Combine the milk and cocoa powder in a saucepan and place over a gentle heat, whisking until the mixture is smooth and comes to the boil. Reduce the heat and add the orange zest, chilli flakes and soft brown sugar, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. 2 Remove from the heat and set aside for 20–30 mins for the chilli and orange to infuse the hot cocoa. 3 When you are ready to serve, reheat the cocoa until piping hot, strain through a fine sieve into a jug and pour into 2 large mugs. Place a cinnamon stick in each mug for a stirrer and serve immediately. Nutritional values (per serving): Cal 352 | Fat 15g | SFA 9g For a child-friendly version, reduce the cocoa to 3 tbsp, the sugar to 4 tbsp and omit the chilli. Chocolate Sandwich Cookies with Milk Chocolate & Peanut Butter Filling 1 v Makes about 35 sandwich cookies Preheat oven to 190ºC / gas 5 and line a occasionally, until the chocolate is completely Prep 30 minutes + chilling time large baking tray with parchment paper. melted. (Alternatively place the bowl over a Cook 12 minutes Place the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, saucepan of boiling water until the chocolate salt, sugar and butter in a food processor and has melted.) Leave the chocolatey cream to For the chocolate cookies whizz for about 15–20 secs until the mixture is cool a little then stir in the peanut butter, icing 225g / 8oz plain flour dark brown and crumbly. sugar and salt. Chill in the fridge for 30 mins or 4tbsp cocoa powder 1tsp baking powder ¼tsp salt 2 Turn the mixture out into a bowl and pour over the egg and vanilla extract. Using a wooden spoon or palette knife, bring the until thickened to a spreadable consistency. 5 Place a teaspoon of the filling on the flat surface of half the cookies then top with 185g / 6½oz sugar mixture together into a soft, pliable dough. Roll the remainder, pressing down lightly, to make 125g / 4½oz cold butter, diced teaspoon-sized nuggets of dough into balls and little sandwiches. Serve with hot milk or a mug 1 large free-range egg, lightly beaten and arrange on the tray leaving at least 2½cm (1in) of hot cocoa. The cookies are best eaten on the combined with 2tsp milk of space between them. Lightly flatten the balls day they are made. 1tsp vanilla extract and bake for 10–12 mins or until firm on top. Nutritional values (per serving): 3 Remove from the oven and leave for Cal 155 | Fat 10g | SFA 5g For the peanut butter filling 5 mins for the cookies to firm up then 140g / 4¾oz milk chocolate transfer to a cooling rack. Throw in 110g (4oz) milk, 200ml / 7fl oz double cream 150g / 5oz smooth peanut butter 40g / 1½oz icing sugar, sieved 4 Make the filling by placing the chocolate in a non-metallic bowl with the double cream and heating in the microwave white or dark chocolate chips to the cookie mix before you add the egg. Pinch of salt on medium power for 2 mins, stirring 84 fresh www.fresh-magazine.co.uk