Axolight
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Axolight is an innovative skin lightening ingredient derived from wheat that inhibits melanogenesis in two ways. It partially inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase but also works through another pathway by inhibiting TRP-1, a protein involved in melanin production. In vitro and ex vivo tests demonstrated Axolight significantly reduces melanin content and the number of melanocytes compared to the positive control kojic acid. An in vivo test also showed Axolight to be more effective and faster acting at lightening skin than a cream containing 2% arbutin. Axolight is classified as readily biodegradable and approved for use in Ecocert products between 2-3% for its skin lightening benefits.
Axolight
- 1. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com AXOLIGHT Innovative lightening active ingredient • Ecocert approved • New mode of action in melanogenesis
- 2. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com2 • The pigmentation of the skin results from the presence of eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (yellow-orange) in the epidermis • Melanin is synthesized, in 4 steps, in specialised cells, the melanocytes, which transfer them to the keratinocytes. Biologicalcontext DERMISEPIDERMIS Maturation stages of melanosomes into the melanocytes.
- 3. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com3 AXOlight : ArabinoXylo-Oligosaccharides Structure : Xylose chain substitued by Arabinose Mean degree of Polymerization : 4 Structure
- 4. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com4 Fabrication process is composed in 5 major steps : Raw material destarching (without solvent) Enzymatic hydrolyse of hemicelluloses (specific) Separation of arabinoxylanes Purification Standardization of the concentration Productionprocess
- 5. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com5 In Vitro test- Protocol Normal human melanocytes are incubated 72 hours at 37°C, on a humid atmosphere with 5% of CO2. Incubation is made with: - Culture medium only - with Kojic acid at 0,003% (positive reference) - or with increasing concentration of Axolight Melanin dosage is measured with a spectrophotometer at 405 nm. Axolight inhibits melanogenesis more efficiently than kojic acid Axolightinhibitsthemelanogenesis Inhibition of melanogenesis Axolight inhibits melanogenesis with a dose effect
- 6. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com6 In Vitro test - Protocole Tyrosinase activity is quantified with a spectrophotometer, with L-DOPA (substrate of tyrosinase). After the action of the tyrosinase, L-DOPA is transformed in dopachrom which is a colored compound detectable by spectrocolorimeter at 490 nm. Axolight inhibits melanogenesis via tyrosinase and another pathway Inhibitionofmelanogenesis: tyrosinaseakeyenzyme Even though Axolight significantly inhibits melanogenesis, it is only partially due to its inhibition of tyrosinase indicating that it works in another metabolic pathway melanogenesis. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
- 7. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com7 Melanogenesis:newdata 1. If tyrosine is at a low concentration, TRP-1 can induce transformation of tyrosine in L-DOPA. 2. The augmentation of L-DOPA quantity induce the activation of tyrosinase. 3. TRP-1 forms a complex with activated tyrosinase to stabilize it and increase its activity. References: Human tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) Tyrp1 and Oculocutaneous Albinism Type 3 Human TRP-1 Has Tyrosine Hydroxylase but no DOPA Oxidase activity Protein kinase C-b-mediated complex formation (TRP-1) 1 2 3
- 8. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com8 Ex Vivo test - Protocol Skin explants (33 year old Caucasian woman) were treated with different treatments during 10 days: - Application of a cream containing 3% of Axolight every 2 days - Irradiation by UV every day. Number of TRP-1 positive melanocytes is measured by immunolabelling Axolight efficiently inhibits melanogenesis via TRP-1 InhibitionofmelanogenesisviaTRP-1 With Axolight positive TRP-1 melanocytes are reduced by 88%* TRP-1 positive melanocytes Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight Ingredients % Xyliance 4 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12 Aqua Qsp 100 Preservative Qs Glycerin 1 Axolight 3
- 9. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com9 Ex Vivo test - Protocol Lightness of the skin (L*) is measured by chromameter Measure of melanine is done by image analysis Axolight inhibits melanogenesis and prevents UV-induced coloration Inhibitionofmelanogenesis Inhibition of explant color > Axolight maintains luminosity of the skin despite UV irradiation Visualization of melanin at D10 a. Control batch b. Batch treated with 3% of Axolight a b > Axolight reduces melanin quantity by 18%* Composition of the cream with 3% of Axolight Ingredients % Xyliance 4 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 12 Aqua Qsp 100 Preservatives Qs Glycerin 1 Axolight 3
- 10. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com10 Melanogenesis:adoubleeffect
- 11. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com11 In Vivo test - Protocol Efficacy of Axolight is evaluated on a panel of volunteers (22 Asian-type women, medium age of 37 years old) Application twice a day during 56 days, on the forearm, of 1 cream with 3% of Axolight or 1 cream with 2% of arbutin. The coloration of the skin is measured with a mexameter and a spectrocolorimeter (A mexameter mesures melanin quantity; the lower the mexametric index is, the lighter the skin is.) Axolight works faster than arbutin Lighteningeffect-InVivotest Variation of mexametric index (lightening effect) 91% of volunteers have shown a lightening effect (vs 82% for cream with arbutin) Axolight presents significant results from 28 days. Variation of luminosity L* vs D0
- 12. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com12 Biodegradability ECOCERT Ecocert approved Axolight is environmentally friendly Environment Pourcentage de biodégradation par rapport à la DThO Axolight is classified as readily biodegradable
- 13. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com13 Caracteristics INCI Name: Water (and) Hydrolyzed wheat flour Aspect : yellow to amber liquid Odor: odorless Preservative : none Dosage : 2-3% Cosmetic uses Axolight is recommended in : • lightening products • Anti-aging products, for age spot prevention • ECOCERT products Cosmeticuses APPLICATIONS BENEFITS EXEMPLES Sun Protection PREVENT Sun screen UV Protection Age spot prevention care Day cream Night cream Cleansing gel Foam Lotion Mask Whitening care LIGHTEN Complexion lightening Tinted cream nude make-up After-sun EXTEND Cream
- 14. Export presentation Axolight 05/2012 | www.soliance.com14 • Patented and Ecocert validated • Efficacy proved • Double inhibition of melanogenesis • Innovative mode of action • Environment friendly Put the light on your beauty! Conclusion