Fabric Cutting .ppt
- 1. Lecture 2 Adnan Mazari, Ph.D
- 2. Imagination Places People Professions Romantic America cooking
- 4. • Textile includes any industry with fibrous raw materials ( excluding some fiber from food industry) • It is NOT limited to spinning , weaving , knitting etc… • Traditional textiles • Non traditional Textiles (Technical)
- 6. Geo Textiles
- 13. Medical textiles
- 15. Buyer • Tomy Hilfiger Merchandizer • Sampling • Coordination with owner and buyer Production • Spreading/Cutting manager • Production manager • Stitching In-charge • Quality/ Shipment
- 16. Responsibilities of a merchandiser Merchandiser Internal & external communication Sampling Preparing internal order sheets Accessories & trims Preparing purchase orders Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms Advising and assisting production and quality department Mediating production and quality departments Helping documentation Taking responsibility for inspections Giving shipping instructions and following shipment Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an- apparel-industry1.asp
- 17. Sections of garment industries • Marketing and Ordering • Sample section • Cutting section • Sewing section • Finishing section
- 19. Pattern Making Pattern Making Patternmaking is the science of designing patterns. Pattern A template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting.
- 20. Pattern Grading & Marker making Pattern Grading Increasing the pattern dimension according to garment Size like S,M,L,XL,XXL What is a Marker? The Marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread. There are three basic types of orientation: i. Nonwovens= neither the orientation nor the direction ii. Cretonne= orientation is important iii. Corduroy= orientation and direction are both important(knitted)
- 22. Spreading and cutting flow process Planning Spreading Cutting Preparation for sewing
- 23. • Fabric in roll form
- 24. Before we spread • Fabric Inspection:
- 25. Fabric Relaxation: • Relaxation Period: • Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also may vary according to the buyer’s recommendation.
- 26. • Fabric Spreading: Fabric spreading is a method where piles of fabric are spread a specific length and width wise according to the garment marker measurement. Marker??
- 27. • Number of plies depends on: Capacity of the cutting machine, • Volume of production, • Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery) and • Thickness of fabric. • Types of Fabric Spreads
- 28. Fabric Spreading Process • There are two methods applied in garment industry for fabric spreading process. • Manual Method Totally hand spreading method therefore this process is quite slow. . By hand b. By hook Mechanical Method They are semi-automatic and full automatic
- 31. Preparation before spreading • Fabric Length and Weight: • Fabric Tension: • Fabric Splicing: • Static Electricity: • Fabric Ply Direction: • Ply Number • Stripe and Check Matching: • Fabric Faults removing
- 32. Fabric Splicing
- 33. Fabric Splicing • Splicing is the technique used in the cutting room during the process of spreading. It basically incorporates cutting the fabric across its width to overlap layers in between the ends of the lay. It can be used for different reasons • 1. Firstly, to accommodate for fabric defects, • 2. Splicing is also used when the fabric roll being spread ends in the middle of the marker, and the end bit length is sufficient to cut one complete garment piece. • Lastly, it is used when there is a change in the size, i.e. the pattern pieces of each
- 34. Type of Splice marks 1. Straight splices: • A straight splice line is marked across the marker width on the spreading table. This is used in cases where pattern pieces meet edge to edge across the fabric width, with no pieces sticking out of the straight line. For this method, the fabric is overlapped, 5cm on either side of the splicing line
- 35. 2. Interlock splices: These crossed marks indicate the ends of the pattern pieces overlapping on the marker. The start and finish of the pattern pieces sticking put are marked with two splice lines, and the fabric is overlapped 5cm on both sides of interlock splice mark. Splicing Loss The fabric that is used as the spicing overlap is a waste generated during the process. This overlapped fabric waste is known as the Splicing Loss Splicing should preferably be done for smaller pattern pieces and should be avoided for larger garments like trousers. For bigger garments, adjustments using end bits prove more efficient than splicing.
- 36. Loss at Spreading section • 1. Marking Loss • 2. Spreading Loss • 1. End of Ply Loss • 2. Edge Losses • 4. Splicing Losses • 5. length Losses
- 37. Avoid during spreading • Fabric must be flat • Elimination of fabric faults: • Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability • Avoidance of fusion of plies: • Mixing pieces
- 38. Types of Lay Plan/marker • Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher. • multiple Size Lay • Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics. • Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces, for example, one side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics.
- 39. Types of Spreading • Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples • A multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other • Stepped Lay is multiple lays in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric. Objectives: i. To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width and without tension. ii. To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment marker plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time. iii. To make every ply plain and flat.
- 40. Forms of Spreading • One Way Cutting is when the fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. The fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. • The fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction. • Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one-directional printed fabric.
- 41. • 1. Fabric Put-up; Open and Rolled
- 42. Fabric Put-up; Folded and Rolled
- 43. Fabric Put-up; Tubular Fabric Rolled
- 44. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W, N/O/W)
- 45. preading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
- 46. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
- 47. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)
- 48. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)
- 49. Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines: • All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic spreading machines. Their features include:Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric rolls. • Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay. • Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment. • Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run. • Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension. • Automatic lay height sensing elevator. • Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying. • Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.
- 50. valuation of Spreading Cost: • The two cost determinations related to spreading are The labour cost for the time to spread • The cost of fabric engaged in the spreading of garments as well as the fabric cost of ends and damages
- 51. Labor cost per garment during spreading • = labor cost(hourly) *time required for each spread( hours) Number of garment obtained from each spread Example: A marker has 7 garments(all patterns) on 70 layers of fabric, the worker took 3 hours to do the spreading process and receives 2USD per hour.
- 52. cost of ends and damages • = Fabric cost (per meters)X (1-marker efficiency)* total fabric used for spreading Number of garment obtained from each spread Example: Total number of garments obtained from spreading process are 1000, the total fabric consumed in 150 meters and cost of fabric per meter is 2USD. The marker efficiency is 95%. Calculate cost of ends per garment.
- 53. Wake Up
- 55. Types of Lay •Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples •Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other •Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric. SMALL size Medium
- 56. • Forms of Spreading • One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply. • Face to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the same direction. • Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.
- 57. Cutting It is the second section of apparel manufacturing. The main purpose of this section is to cut the fabric according to the pattern of approved sample. Cutting Methods of fabric cutting:- There are mainly three methods of cutting are as follows: 1. Fully manual: Hand operated scissor 2. Manually operated power knife: Straight knife Band knife Round knife Die cutting Notcher Drill 3. Computerized methods of fabric cutting: Computer controlled knife cutting Cutting by Laser beam Cutting by Water jet Cutting by Plasma torch
- 58. A basic sewing machine consists of the fundamental parts required to form a stitch , sew a seam or stitching or to perform a particular sewing operation. • The major components of a basic sewing machine include; 1. The casting 2. Lubrication system 3. Stitch forming system 4. Feeding system Sewing
- 59. Finishing section: It is the last step of garment making. All of the finishing processes are done here. Let yourself know what kinds of work are to be carried out in this segment- a) Pressing/ Ironing b) Packing c) Cartooning & d) Arranging final inspection and shipment After complication of sewing garments are send to the finishing section. This section does the following things. WASHING (OPTIONAL) CLEANING CHECKING IRONING TAGGING
- 60. Defects in Garments For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, designs and the final finished garments. Quality control in terms of garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects should never be over looked.
- 61. Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color garment but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of. Color defects - Color defects that could occur are difference of the color of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces. Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too. Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors. Inspection
- 62. Thank you