Fixing linings
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This document discusses different methods for fixing wall linings, including: - Using different fixing methods depending on the type of lining, such as screws or nails. - Preparing surfaces by checking frames for straightness and plumbness before installing linings. - Using battens to provide a surface to fix linings if the wall framing is unsuitable or for masonry walls. - Installing timber lining boards by measuring wall dimensions to determine layout, installing boards straight, and secret nailing to hide fixings.
Fixing linings
- 2. Types of fixing Depending on the type of lining, you will use different fixing methods. Some will leave holes that must be filled, like plasterboard screws, and others need no further preparation, like secret nailed lining boards or proprietary clip systems.
- 3. Preparation •Before any linings are cut you must prepare the surface, this is called pre-sheeting. •If the studs of the wall frame orient the right way to fix your linings to them, you will pre-sheet the studs themselves. •If the studs don’t align or it is a masonry wall you may batten out the wall, or put in additional nogging or framing.
- 4. Pre-sheet Part1/2 The aim is to make the surface “flat”. Imagine pulling a sheet over your bed and making sure there are no wrinkles. Check plates for straight Check the top and bottom plate for straight. Use a straight edge or stringline. Move the frame if you need to, if you can’t move it, pack with strips of Masonite or plane off the high spots. Check frame for plumb Check the top and bottom plates for plumb. Use a straight edge and a spirit level on a space between studs to make sure the top plate is directly above the bottom plate. Check outside studs for straight Check your outside studs for straight. Pick two studs (internal corner studs, studs next to window or door openings, or as far as your straight edge will reach) and pack or plane them until they are straight.
- 5. Pre-sheet Part2/2 Check all studs for straight Check the rest of the wall. Run your straight edge up the wall horizontally between the two studs or battens you already checked. They are your guides. . Pack and plane If any part of a stud or batten sticks out, plane it down. If any don’t touch the straight edge, pack them out with Masonite strips, or if you are using battens, put more packing behind the fixings. Cripple If studs are too bent that planing them would significantly reduce their width, use the crippling method described in the wall framing module.
- 6. Crippling studs If studs are too bent, they can be crippled to straighten them. Cut no more than half the depth of the stud in the concave side. Wedge the cut open. Reinforce both sides of the stud with 42mm x 19mm x 600mm minimum plates and fix with 4/50mm nails in each. You can cripple 20% of the studs (1 in 5) but not studs next to openings or supporting concentrated loads.
- 7. Battening •If you are fixing to a masonry wall or there is not enough framing to fix to, you can install battens. •Battens are strips of timber or steel furring channels spaced according to your lining material requirements. •They are typically spaced at 600mm centres and are fixed wherever they cross studs or fixed to masonry walls with plugs and screws every 600mm or more if the lining material requires it. •It is often quicker to pack behind battens to form a straight surface than to pre-sheet them or the wall their mounted too.
- 8. Battening •The orientation of your battening depends on the lining. •Horizontal battening will allow vertical lining boards. •Laminating battens to the side of metal studs and letting them protrude slightly will allow timber fixings to be used with a metal structural frame. •If fixings are going to be seen then even spacings should be a factor when setting out battens.
- 9. Split battens With the innovation of secret hinges split battens are becoming less common but are still useful for mounting panels or cabinets that may need to be removed to access services like water or electricity. A split batten is made up of a batten with a bevel on the bottom mounted to the removable panel and a batten mounted to the frame with a bevel on the top so that the weight of the panel locks them together.
- 10. Split Battens – set out A gap the same size as the height of the bevel (plus some) must be left above the panel or cabinet to be able to lift it off. The gap at the top can be covered with a pelmet, crown mould, or lighting recess.
- 11. Direct stick fixing Quick-grab adhesives allow linings to be mounted directly to the substrate with no visible fixings. This is useful for laminated panels where the surface is pre-finished or a masonry wall that is relatively straight. Instead of pre-sheeting, blocks of packers may be adhered in low points to bring the wall in plane. Bracing of sheets is required while adhesives cure.
- 12. Timber Lining Boards – Set out •Before the first board is installed you should work out the effective cover of the lining boards and how many rows you will need. •Measure the wall in the opposite direction to how the boards will run and divide this by the effective cover. •If the result isn’t an exact number (which is common) you may need to rip down boards. •Try to “balance” the aesthetic of the lining boards. This may mean ripping down the first and last boards to keep the start and finish even. •If the boards are butting into an uneven surface, like a floor, scribe the board to suit so the next board can be installed straight. Effective Cover Board width
- 13. Lining boards - Installing •Take care to install the first lining board straight. •If it is not installed straight this will lead to saw-toothing at the ends of the boards and can mean ripping a wedge into the final board. •Check every few runs by measuring to the opposite wall or a datum marks. •Keep checking as you install, it is common for some joints to be tighter at one end and for creep to develop during installation.
- 14. Lining boards - Fixing •Most lining boards have some ornamentation at the edges. •This gives the surface texture but also hides any irregularities in the thickness of the boards. •When secret nailing, the fixings are driven through the base of the tongue of board angled backwards to prevent splitting and compress the joint below. •Boards can be face nailed too. This is used with larger boards, usually over 120mm in width. •One fixing is recommended for smaller boards to allow movement and reduce splitting.
- 15. Timber Lining Boards - Fixing •The tongue of the board underneath holds the bottom of the board above. •This hides the nail heads and allows the boards to move with heat and humidity without cupping. •Board can also held in with proprietary clips or loose tongues/splines.
- 16. Lining sheets – Set out It is important to consider the aesthetic style when setting out for timber veneered panels, plywood sheets, laminated imitation stone, or any sheet material which has patterns or textures. •Do the patterns match? •Are they similar but not exactly the same? •Do they go together as a set? •How do the edges meet? (Shadow lines or flush?)
- 20. Fibre cement sheeting - Fixing •Precautions should be taken when cutting fibre cement as the dust is harmful. •Sheets can be scored and snapped or cut with sheers to minimise dust. •If cutting with a saw, a dust extraction system and a fibre cement blade or wet cutting system must be used. •Nails or screws can be used to fix sheets. •Fibre cement is very brittle so pre-drilling holes is advised. •Edges of boards are recessed so they can be joined like plasterboard •Sheets are commonly tiled over. The weight of the tiles affects the number fixings which affects the stud spacing.
- 21. Spandrel and soffits Spandrels are panels that enclose the space underneath staircases Soffits are linings that close in the underside of staircases. Typically spandrels are framed out and panelling or access doors are installed to the frame
- 22. Soffits Soffit linings can be directly fixed to stair stringers with a batten or carriage piece to support the centre of the lining if required. Rebated mouldings cover the transition from stair stringer to soffit lining or the stringer may be rebated to accept them.