Identication of textile fibers
- 1. IDENTIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS IRIN AKTER MATERIAL MANAGER G-STAR RAW
- 2. TEXTILE FIBER Textile Fiber; Fiber is a near microscopic hair-like substance that may be natural or manmade. Fibers suitable for textile use possess adequate length, fineness, strength, and flexibility for yarn formation and fabric construction, for withstanding the intended use of the completed fabric. Other properties affecting textile fiber performance include elasticity, crimp (waviness), moisture absorption, reaction to heat and sunlight, reaction to the various chemicals applied during processing and in the dry cleaning or laundering of the completed fabric, and resistance to insects and micro-organisms.
- 4. https://www.bettermeetsreality.com/ COMMONLY USED FIBERS IN TEXTILE Stats On Fiber Production & Consumption, & Most Common Fibers/Fabrics (By Type) 55% 27% 7% 4% 5% 2% 1% In 2015, the global mill consumption of fibers Polyester Cotton Cellulosic Fibres Polypropylene Nylon Acrylics Wool – waterfootprint.org 64.20% 24.10% 6.20% 4.40% 1.10% In 2017, the distribution of fiber consumption worldwide synthetic fibres cotton wool based fibres other natural fibres wool fibres – statista.com
- 5. It Aids Communication With Fabric Suppliers Fabric Content Affects Fabric Price You Know WhatYou’re Getting Why is identifying fiber important?
- 6. IDENTIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBERS A number of methods are available for characterization of the structural, physical and chemical properties of fibers. The Non-technicalTest Feeling test BurnTest TheTechnicalTest Microscopic test Chemical test
- 7. THE NON-TECHNICAL TEST Non-technical testing doesn’t require any special equipment or setting for identification of fiber.
- 8. FEELING TEST The feeling test requires perception if it is to be of any value. Skilled perception is acquired only after handling many different fabrics over a period of time. Limitations of this test become apparent when examining and comparing fabrics of different fiber content. Feeling test involves touching a fabric and feeling the fabric to know its component fibers. However, it requires a long experience of handling different fabrics over a period of time for such skillful perception. Also, it is difficult to examine and compare the fabrics made of different fiber contents with the feeling test because the handling properties can be changed due to applying finishing chemicals. As example cotton gives cooling feeling in touch where wool fiber gives warm feel.
- 9. BURN TEST The primary purpose of the burn test is to determine if the fabric swatch is made of natural or synthetic fibers. The flame, smoke, odor and ash all help us to identify the fabric being burned. The burning test is more efficient than the feeling test but it also has its limitations. We can only identify the fabric fiber when the fiber is 100% pure. If a number of different fibers or yarns are blended together, it is hard to distinguish the individual elements. In addition, if the fabric swatch has undergone a post- finishing process, this might also affect the test result.
- 10. HOW TO CONDUCT THE BURN TEST Cut the fabric swatch into a small 3-4cm square. Pull fibers from the fabric swatch Use a tweezer to hold one end of the fiber ball https://youtu.be/gwx2-NRAtjo
- 11. BURN TEST RESULTS OF NATURAL FIBERS Cotton Cotton ignites and burns quickly. The flame is round, calm and yellow. The smoke is white. After removing the flame, the fiber will continue to burn. The odor is like burning paper. The ash is dark gray and can be crushed into a powder easily. Hemp A cellulose fiber, burns quickly with bright flame. It leaves no melted bead and after burning no sign of flame is seen. It smells like burning leaves or wood. The ash is gray and smoke has no fume hazard. Jute Also a cellulose fiber, doesn’t shrink from flame. Other characteristics are similar to those of hemp fabric. Linen (Flax) A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are similar to hemp and jute. Silk Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves a dark bead which can be easily crushed. It is self- extinguishing and leaves ash that is a dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like burned hair or charred meat. It gives out little or no smoke and the fume has no hazard. Wool Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto fingernail. It leaves beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves harsh ash from crushed bead. It gives out a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark smoke and moderate fume.
- 12. Rayon Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up. Unless there is a fabric finish, it doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous. Acrylic Acrylic shrinks quickly when the flame approaches. The flame sputters and the smoke is black. After removing the flame, the fiber will continue to burn. The ash is yellow-brown, hard and of an irregular shape. Polyester Polyester shrinks quickly when the flame approaches. It then melts and burns slowly. The smoke is black. After removing the flame, the fiber will not continue to burn. It has a chemical odor, similar to burned plastic. The residue forms into round, hard, melted black beads. Nylon Nylon shrinks quickly when the flame approaches. It then melts and burns slowly. There will be small bubbles when burning. The smoke is black. After removing the flame, the fiber will not continue to burn. It has a celery-like, chemical odor. The residue forms into round, hard, melted black beads. BURNTEST RESULTS OF MAN-MADE FIBERS
- 13. FIBER BURN CHART
- 15. MICROSCOPIC TEST The microscopic test reveals the macroscopic features of the fiber. When observed along the length (longitudinal section), the surface features are revealed. When a fiber is cut in the perpendicular direction and a thin cross-section examined on the microscope, the shape of the cross-section and the macroscopic features in the cross-section can help identifying some fibers. The microscopic test is a technical test that involves identifying the fabric with the help of a microscope with a magnification of minimum 100 power. The test can easily distinguish between fibers. The test identifies the natural fibers more easily as compared to man-made ones. Synthetic fibers are very similar in appearance and the increase in the number of varieties makes it a little tough to distinguish the fibers even under a microscope.
- 16. COTTON Longitudinal view : Mature cotton looks like a flat, twisted, ribbon or a collapsed twisted tube. A large number of convolutions are usually found. Immature cotton also looks like a flat twisted ribbon but has a lower number of convolutions. Mercerised mature cotton is almost cylindrical in shapes and has very few convolutions. Cross – sectional view : Mature cotton has been or kidney – shaped cross section, and a small lumen. Immature cotton also has a bean – shaped cross section but a larger lumen. Mercerised cotton looks almost round to oval, a small point at or near the centre representing the lumen.
- 17. Flax: Longitudinal View: Long, transparent, cylindrical, sometimes striated appearance. It has harrow lumen running through centre. Cross – sectional view : The cell wall appears thick and polygonal in shape. Jute: Longitudinal View: Cross wise marks called nodes or joints. Cross – sectional view : The fibers have a small central canal similar to the lumen in cotton. Several sided or polygonal with rounded edges. Hemp: Longitudinal View: Smooth and cylindrical with a cross marking nodes, no lengthwise striations, broad lumen Cross – sectional view : Partly polygonal JUTE FLAX HEMP
- 18. Wool: Longitudinal view : Irregular and roughly cylindrical,prominent scale marking or flattened plates. Cross – sectional view : Oval to circular with variation in diameter medulla is concentric and variable in size. Silk: Longitudinal view : Uniform diameter with striation running parallel to the fibre axis. Cross – sectional view : Differ in cross sectional appearance according to the process used.Basically has a irregular cross section. Viscose: Longitudinal view : Uniform diameter with striation running parallel to the fibre axis. Cross – sectional view : Differ in cross sectional appearance according to the process used.Basically has a irregular cross section. WOOL SILK SILK TUSSAH ‘GALAXY’- a Y-shaped viscose rayon ‘Viloft’- a flat cross- sectional viscose rayon
- 19. Polyester: Longitudinal view : Very regular, rod like appearance. Cross – sectional view : Circular in cross section. Nylon: Longitudinal view : Very regular, rod like appearance. Cross – sectional view : Circular in cross section. Acrylic : Longitudinal view : Rod like with smooth surface and profile. Cross – sectional view : Nearly round or bean shaped. POLYESTER NYLON ACRYLIC
- 20. MICROSCOPICAL VIEW OF VARIOUS TEXTILE FIBERS FIBER LONGITUDINAL CROSS-SECTIONAL Cotton Ribbon shaped with periodic twists called convolutions. After mercerization, the fibers become cylindrical. Collapsed tube or bean shapes, central channel or lumen may be visible. For mercerised cotton, the corss-section is approximately circular. Flax, Jute Multiple fibers cemented together, bamboo-like with cross-markings called nodes. Bundles of polygons with large lumen in the centre. Wool Crimped solid rod with fish-like scales on the surface. Circular or eliptical, vairable in diameter. Raw Silk Rough filaments cemented in pairs, separated in places. Triangular with rounded corners, in pairs. Degummed Silk Structure-less, like a hollow glass rod. Sparated fibers, triangular, runded corners. Viscose Rod-like with striations Commonly serrated Polyester, polyamide, and acrylic Featureless rod-like, depends o spinneret shape and spinning conditions. Circular or other shape depending n spinneret shape and spinning conditions.
- 21. CHEMICAL TEST Chemical tests are another technical means of identifying fibers. But chemical tests are not intended for the general consumers. Different types of chemical tests are undertaken to establish the identity of the fibers used. These tests give accurate and precise analysis and conducted in research laboratory. Stain Test Solvent Test
- 22. STAIN TEST Also known as the Double Barrel Fiber Identification (DBFI), the test is based on the theory that each fiber has its own distinct two- color reaction when treated with stain. A fiber will turn to a particular color in the presence of dilute acetic acid and to some other specific color when stained in the presence of a mild alkali. Stain method is applicable for those fiber which shows specific behavior in acid and alkali. Fibers have differing dyeing characteristics and affinities dependent on the chemical and morphological structure of the fiber.
- 23. SOLVENT TEST The test involves treating the fibers in certain solvents for identifying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to conduct as most of the manufactured fibers and their blends are chemically similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test for separating or identifying the fibers in combinations. The chemical structure of polymers in a fiber determines the fiber’s basic solubility characteristics.
- 24. SOLVENT TEST FIBER TYPE SOLVENT IDENTIFICATION OF FIBERS Vegetable + Animal Acid Vegetable fiber destroyed Alkali Animal fiber destroyed Cotton + Linen Sulphuric acid & weak ammonia Cotton dissolved and linen unaffected Iodine & Zinc Chloride Cotton stained reddish purple and linen stained blue to purple Caustic Soda (NaoH) Cotton remains white and linen turns to yellowish Silk + Wool Concetrated cold hydrochloric acid (HCl) Silk will dissolved in the solvent Wool fiber become swell Viscose Rayon + Acetate Sulphuric acid & equal amount of iodine Dark-blue color indicqates viscose rayon Yellow color indicaes acetate Di-acetate + Tri-acetate/ Modacrylic 80% Acetone Di-acetate will dissolve Tri-acetate/ Modacrylic will not dissolve Nylon + Acetate Acetone Acetate will dissolve Nylon will not dissolve Nylon + Wool Boiling solution of NaOH Wool will dissolve Nylon will not dissolve Polyester + Other Fiber Hot metacresol/ Acetone/ Formic Acid Polyester, acetate, nylon soluble in hot metacresol Acetate soluble in acetone but not polyester Acrylic + Other Fiber 70% solution of Ammonium thiocyanate Acrylic will dissolve but cotton, wool, silk, rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester will not dissolve
- 26. SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST Fiber density or specific gravity test may be used as an aid to fiber identification. A series of solvent mixtures of varying density may be prepared. If the specific gravity of the fiber is greater than that of a particular solvent mixture, it will sink, and if less, it will float.
- 27. OTHER ANALYTICAL TESTS In addition to the discussed simple tests, a number of sophisticated analytical methods ae in use for the thorough characterization of structural, physical and chemical properties of the fibers, such as: Optical and electron microscopy X-ray diffraction Infra-red spectroscopy Ultraviolet-Visible spectroscopy Thermal analysis Elemental and end-group analysis, etc.
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