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22. the others repeated the story with such asseverations, and so many
plausible corroborations, that I partly believed them. On arriving at
Sooroo these knaves assumed a high tone, and frightened the poor
old kardar who did not come near me for some time; but having
appeased the shikarries by a 'douceur,' as I suppose, they told him I
would receive him, and forgive him on apologising. Now I believe
the whole story to have been false from beginning to end, and
actually plotted and devised to extort something from the kardar.
Verily, in these parts, all men are liars.
We continued our route, and plodded on, the sun now hot, finally
arriving at our camping place, the village of Shazgool, a Buddhist
place, with the lama's house curiously built into the face of a
perpendicular rock looking down on the village, a shabby tumble-
down place, and some tombs or shrines tawdrily painted with clumsy
devices of hideous demons on them. These are paltry looking
constructions, of mud principally.
This was a small village of some nine or ten houses in a dilapidated
condition; but they are all apparently in like bad case, the
inhabitants miserably poor, judging from their appearance and
surrounding indications. But they seem to be stout, healthy, and
cheerful. The women, I fancy, do most of the work, as with all
barbarians. A large wicker basket seems to be a fixture on their
backs, and with this appendage they are seen busy in the fields,
weeding, putting every shred of herbage so gathered into the said
basket which by evening is filled, when they return, and the produce
of their industry serves for fodder for cow, sheep, or goat, every
blade of vegetation being of value in these barren regions, where
nothing grows but what is actually extorted from reluctant nature.
How different from the adjoining country of Cashmere, where, on
the other hand, nature is profuse in her gifts, covering mountain and
valley with the richest herbage, and yielding heavy crops of cereals
to the merest scratches of the plough. Both are wonderful countries:
Cashmere, for its beauty and fertility; Thibet, for its savage
desolation and sterility. The natives of each land, too, partake
23. strongly of the relative characteristics of their native land: the
Cashmiries, famous for personal beauty,—the Thibetans, as
notorious for ugliness. Strange, though, they possess some taste; for
almost every individual of the numbers met travelling yesterday and
to-day had a bunch of yellow roses, or other bright flowers stuck in
his greasy cap.
10th July. On the march at 5 A.M.—the path as ever in these
mountainous regions running by a stream threading the narrow
valley. Here and there was a strip of green cultivation, with brown
mountains, mounts, huge hillocks, all barren, some craggy, others
smoothly rounded, heap on heap, pile on pile, here falling sloping
back, allowing the eye to range over many successive wave-like
summits, there rising up abruptly with crags, and clefts, and dark
ravines, closing in upon and overshadowing the narrow valley. I tried
to find some mode of description by which one might give a person
verbally some tolerable idea of the combined desolation and
grandeur of these scenes; but all in vain.
We had a long and fatiguing ascent, prior to which we passed
through the village of Waka, near which abutting on the path, is a
sculptured rock standing alone, representing a Hindoo deity. The
figure is carved on the face of the rock which is of granite, I think,
the height about thirty feet, and the workmanship the average of
what one sees in Hindostan. A small mud building closes in the lower
extremities of this idol, in which is a shrine; and I found within
garlands, and signs of recent worship, some few professors of
Hindooism residing close by. The natives call this idol, Mohir
Chamba, and say it is of great antiquity; but to me the chiselling
appeared fresh and sharp. This, however, from the hard quality of
the stone would be the case for a length of time, especially in this
dry climate. There are few Hindoos now in Thibet, Buddhism being
the prevailing creed. Many mussulmans are scattered among them.
Men are now met with wearing pig-tails, Chinese fashion. They have
a different cap, too—a long bag of black woollen stuff which is
24. turned over, covering the top and one side of the head. The Maltese,
if I recollect right, wear one precisely similar.
Finding no shelter from the sun after breakfast, having halted an
hour we continued our route, now downwards, until we descried one
or two willows in a hamlet; for which we made, and glad enough we
were to escape the sun's scorching rays, and rest ourselves. We
moved on again about two o'clock—much too soon; and, after two
or three miles, further grilling, we stopped at Karbo, our halt.
There are many Buddhist monuments here, rude tombs of mud and
loose stones. The principal feature is a thing like a great sugared
cake, perhaps intended to represent an urn: adjoining and
connected with this is a raised oblong, varying in length—some are
ten feet, some twenty, others fifty—built up of stones, about four
feet high, the top flattish, and covered all over with loose flat stones,
all sculptured, both in figures and letters. These tombs contain the
bones of sainted lamas, I believe. They are very inferior to the
tombs and pagodas met with in Burmah, some of which are
beautiful specimens of architecture, and extremely picturesque. All I
have seen here as yet are mean and paltry. These monuments are
whitewashed, the wash remarkable for its lustrous quality. I
questioned Phuttoo as to the composition. He said it was a
substance dug out of the earth. I observed that it differed much
from that in use in India. He said, it was not 'chunani.' I imagine it to
be a kind of chalky pigment.
11th July. Away, with the dawn, though we had not so long a march
in prospect as those of the two previous days, which must have
been over twenty miles. But it is well to start early to enjoy the
freshness of morn, and avoid the excessive heat of the sun which I
really think I endure better than the shikarries. The scenery of to-
day was similar to that of yesterday, which is, I imagine, the type of
the entire region, unless the banks of the Indus present any variety:
if so, it will only be in the height and formation of the mountains.
There was a gradual ascent, with a sharp pitch at the end, to the
summit of the hill on which was a stone Buddhist monument, and in
25. its shade I stopped to breakfast. From this eminence the view was
extensive and interesting, the adjacent mountains possessing
peculiar features, and being so distributed as to afford good
distances.
I stopped till the small building no longer protected me from the
sun; then, perforce, braved his potent rays, and pursued my route
on to Lama Yurru, our intended bivouac.
As we descended to the level of the valley, opening a bend I
detected some wild looking animals moving from among some
cattle. Subhan, after a while, declared them to be shâpu, wild sheep;
so guns were got ready, and with small prospect of success, the
ground being level and bare, we prepared to stalk them. The game,
numbering some twenty-five head, rufous coloured animals, of deer-
like form and action, with two small upright horns curving
backwards, were gamboling, moving here and there; nor did they
become aware of dangerous neighbours, until we were about a
hundred yards from them, when they stood gazing for some
seconds, presenting a fair mark. But, alas! my lungs were heaving so
that I could not take aim, Subhan, in spite of my oft-repeated
lectures and warnings, hurrying on 'ventre a terre,' so that with the
attitude I was quite distressed, and only looked and longed at the
inviting target before me, entertaining a sort of hope that they
would give me time. But not so; a few seconds only to gaze, and
away they cantered in a string across us. Rising, I aimed at the line;
the ball struck true in direction but low, I think, the scared animals
dashing aside right and left. A thud, however, was heard, and we all
thought that one was hit; when looking some little distance beyond,
there stood an unfortunate bullock, one hind leg slightly raised from
the ground, and blood trickling down. There was only time for an
exclamation or two as we followed the herd now making for a hill,
when they were on which I fired my battery at them, the distance
three or four hundred yards, the balls striking right amongst them—
wonderful how they all missed!
26. Now came full upon me the sense of my misfortune and ill luck.
There stood the hapless bullock patiently and silently enduring his
wrongs, his poor wounded leg still shrinking from the ground on
which the oozing blood was frothing. I was much annoyed and
grieved at this mishap. The poor wounded creature looked so
melancholy in its patient, silent attitude, and I feared the wound was
mortal. The ball from Whitworth, striking the ground, had doubtless
glanced, and so struck the wrong animal. I loudly deplored my ill
luck: the shikarries dumbfounded muttered together, attributing such
a strange accident to the undue influence of evil spirits; and we
pursued our way down the dusty path, until the green vale of Lama
Yurru greeted our aching eyes—a remarkable place, a stronghold of
Buddhism, a monastery and other dwellings of lamas being perched
on the top of a singular ridge of rocks of some hundred and fifty feet
perpendicular, scooped and hollowed out here and there, divided
into buttresses over which were laid the floors of these curious
buildings which themselves appear well constructed of sun-dried
brick, of two or three stories in height—one the principal mansion of
four. Some have little balconies projecting; all have windows, some
good-sized and regularly placed, while a number of small loopholes
are scattered about the walls. These buildings slope inwards from
the base slightly, on the pyramid principle, as I believe all the houses
of this country do. Many monuments and tombs are here. Long rows
of them stretch along parallel with the path, looking just like a line of
huge chess pawns with square pedestals.
A considerable extent of terraced fields along the stream attest the
comfortable circumstances of this community. Clumps of yellow and
common roses are numerous; but sad havoc has been played with
the willows, the stump of many a fine tree recently felled being
conspicuous: but about half-a-dozen remain standing. I have not
ascertained for what purpose this unusual cutting has taken place:
perhaps, some new building or extensive repairs are in
contemplation. My tent is pitched on a nice bit of turf, a stream of
clear water close at hand, guided to turn a small mill which rumbles
away beside me.
27. On reaching this place I threw myself down disconsolate beneath a
shady willow, the shikarries endeavouring to divert me from my
gloomy mood by anecdotes of accidents and mishaps of a far more
melancholy colour than mine;—how a shikarry had shot a man in his
own field for a bear, this very man having indicated that identical
spot as the place the bear would be found in, then by fate being led
thither himself, and, concealed by the high grain, there slain. Several
similar instances were narrated. Phuttoo, the most eloquent and
storied of the trio, winding up with an astounding accident that
befell his father who, when with Golab Sing and his army, in some
unaccountable manner shot a bear; the ball, passing clean through
the bear, killed outright six sepoys, all in a lump, and wounded a
seventh in the arm. The Maharajah conducted an inquest personally
on this lamentable slaughter of his warriors, and found the
circumstances so marvellous, and Phuttoo senior's 'kizmet' so
wonderful in effecting such destruction with one ball, that he over-
looked the loss of his men, and presented him with two hundred
rupees, backsheesh;—a nice, veracious, little narrative this. The
other shikarries, of course, vouched for its accuracy.
On arrival I despatched a man to ascertain the nature of the wound
of the bullock, and to whom it belonged, in order to compensate the
owner. Resolved not to hunt to-morrow, needing some repose after
these long marches, I arranged to send out two villagers to scout.
After dinner the messenger returned, bringing intelligence of the
wounded beast which turned out to be a cow, less valuable in these
parts than a bullock; which latter, being used for carriage of
merchandise, are more highly prized. The wound he seemed to think
not mortal. I differ: a Whitworth bolt is no trifle, and the frothing
blood a bad symptom.
All the natives of the place came to look at us, and visit the
shikarries, Phuttoo being known to some of them. One of the group
had in his waist-belt a double flageolet, or rather whistle, which I
requested him to play. He made an attempt or two, but failed except
to produce some unsatisfactory notes, excusing himself on the plea
28. of nervousness and alarm at performing before so great a dignitary.
The two pipes are in unison, I think.
I am going to remain here three or four days; certainly over Sunday,
whether sport is found or not, as I want my servants and things
from Sirinuggur to join me. My original plan was for them to meet
me at Kargyl; but the shikarries made such a bad bunderbus,
dissuading me from sending orders from Shugkenuz, as I proposed,
that they could only have started from Sirinuggur on the 6th, and we
reached Kargyl on the 8th, to which place it is ordinarily eight days'
march from the former place. A longer delay is likely to take place
owing to a deficiency of coolies, as the messenger of a saheb 'en
route' to Ladâk informed us. He said, the Maharajah was sending his
whole army to subdue the Gylghit tribes who were in open revolt
against his authority, and that all available means of transport had
been taken up to accompany the force. He told me there were fears
entertained that my baggage could not be sent on at present. This
would be unfortunate as I am out of powder nearly, and should have
to send in and wait the return of the messenger ere proceeding
further. But the Baboo would have written in such an extremity: so I
hope, four or five days hence, to welcome my belongings. This
messenger overtook us on the march from Kargyl: he is in the
employment of Lieut. Brinckman, 94th, who has gone into Chan-
than, beyond Ladâk, on a shooting expedition; where I had thought
of going but for the strong dissuasions of Phuttoo who represented
that country as a most sterile, dusty, and difficult region to traverse,
everything—even to grass—having to be carried, and the wild yâk,
the only object worth the trouble and risk, even if seen, which was
exceedingly doubtful, a most difficult creature to approach.
On these and other similar representations, I abandoned the idea,
limiting my travels eastward to Leh and its environs, where I
propose remaining a few days, giving Suleiman an opportunity of
offering his Scriptures, &c.; thence to make my way to Iskardo,
returning to Cashmere through the Tilyl valley, by which time the
bara sing will be in season.
29. 12th July. I took a saunter along under the lamas' dwellings, then
down into the barley fields—very pleasant this leisurely stroll after
my three days' hard, broiling work. The two villagers, sent out at
dawn to scout, returned with the unsatisfactory information that
they had searched far and wide, but seen nothing. However, we did
not place much dependence on them.
In the evening, taking my glass, I went off myself in the direction in
which it was stated the game would be found, if anywhere. But not
a vestige of shikar could I discover. I saw Subhan go by on the same
errand, and returned to dinner. On coming back he reported a
barren country without a trace of game.
I had great doubt about trying to-morrow, but after some
consultation determined to convince myself on the question of game
or no game; and, if none should be found, to shift camp on Saturday
across the Indus to Kalsee, reported by the shikarries to be a nice
village, with many trees, and undoubted shikar in the
neighbourhood; so that will be a pleasanter locale in which to await
my things, and it is but eight or nine miles off.
The owner of the wounded cow came to report on the health of that
unfortunate quadruped which by his statement is alive, but in a bad
way, lying down and eating nothing. I fancy something definite will
be known to-morrow.
13th July. I started at dawn with not very pleasant anticipations of
my day's work, expecting very hard walking in a barren stony
country, with hardly a chance of sport. And so it turned out. We
ascended hills, and traversed table lands, and peered into gullies
right and left, but saw not a glimpse of game: so, after some three
hours and a half of this unsatisfactory toil, we descended to a
stream on the road, hard by where I shot the cow; there
breakfasted, and returned to camp.
We again passed some of those curious Buddhist erections—long,
oblong, tomb-shaped piles. There were two about fifty yards long
30. each, with an interval of some thirty yards. The tops were slightly
slanted from the centre, and covered with the smooth, flat, water-
worn stones, except a few yards left to be filled in by them. These
stones were all inscribed with figures, or Thibetan characters; and I
endeavoured to ascertain from the two native attendants, through
the interpretation of the shikarries, the meaning of the inscriptions,
and the object with which they were so placed. But my gleanings
were very scanty, the shikarries having but a limited stock of
Hindostani phrases, not a general knowledge of the language, and
only a few words of Thibetan. But thus much I made out; that every
stone was similar in its inscription, bearing the words—as well as I
can letter the sounds—Mâni, Pâni, Pudma-hoo—which I understood
to be one of the titles of their divinity, and that these engraved
stones were thus presented as an oblation and offering acceptable
to their god—being an act of faith and devotion from which as a
consequence prosperity is looked for. More I could not discover, the
shikarries being very obtuse in apprehending an idea on such
subjects. These are not tombs, then, but rather altars.
On return I announced my intention to move to-morrow. The
lumbadar came to see me. He had just returned from Leh, had a
decided Thibetan face, and wore some ornaments, necklace, ear-
rings &c., of red coral and turquoise. These appear to be the
fashionable jewels here, nearly all—the poorest even, in rags and
tatters—having a bit or two stuck about them. He showed me a card
written by poor Moorcroft who perished so sadly in Bokhara, bearing
date June 16th, 1822, stating that he had presented a coral to the
monastery, as a token of his visit. This lumbadar was an interesting
fellow, evidently very bashful and sensitive, but quick in
apprehension and intelligent.
The cow case came up for final adjudication, the animal in the same
condition; so after some discussion I gave the owner the full price of
the cow, as stated, viz: six Maharajah rupees—only five shillings
English—and, if it recovered, so much the better, he would be a
31. lucky fellow. So ends this sporting episode. It has not been without
its good results in establishing the European character for justice.
14th July. We got away at 5 A.M., and took the path onwards to
Kalsee. It threads a narrow gorge giving exit to the waters of a
torrent, the scenery grand and savage—towering cliffs, beetling
crags, shutting out the sky. The path was conducted in the most
irregular evolutions and zigzags, and occasionally running almost
into the river; so much so that I was reduced to mounting Subhan at
two places to keep dry. We crossed several well-constructed bridges,
and came upon a much larger stream, which we followed through its
devious windings to the Indus. In one place it rushed along a
channel cut in the solid rock, each side level and scarped as though
by man, the depth being some twelve feet, and the width about six.
At length this ravine, opening out a little, debouched upon the valley
of the Indus running at right angles to our course, and here a dirty,
shabby-looking river, of some twenty or thirty yards in width, in a
narrow and sterile valley, the mountains on either side shelving
down so close to the river as to leave little more than a few yards of
level on which was the path. We saw on the opposite side men
working at a hole, and on our own met others with gold-washing
implements,—a wooden, flat, boat-shaped affair, with a cane-work
frame, and ladles of gourd. I believe the yield is very scanty.
On, about a mile, to a bridge over the Indus, on this side of which is
a Buddhist shrine; on the Ladâk side is a small fort of sun-dried
brick, very insignificant—a three-pounder would knock it into
'smithereens' in half a dozen rounds. There are three or four sepoys
here. All goods are weighed here, and pay duty before crossing.
It was about half a mile further to Kalsee: and pleasant, indeed, it
was to see the green trees and fields. The place appeared quite
civilised after the savage country we had traversed. There were
large gardens and fields fenced in by stone walls, fruit trees thickly
interspersed amid the grain, principally standard peaches, the fruit
now at about half its size. The whole wore a charming aspect of
32. industry and improvement. Passing along the walls, we came under
the village which, built on the side of a rocky hill, overlooks its
smiling terraced fields and orchards, now beautifully green. The path
now led under some fine spreading walnuts, affording delicious
shade, a most grateful relief to my aching eyes, parched and
bloodshot from the burning glare of the barren rocky regions I have
been crossing.
No level spot of sufficient space, devoid of grain, being available for
my tent, I resolved to purchase the crop under a walnut tree, so
ordered the attendance of the Zemindar, with whom the shikarries
and sepoy bargained, the price being fixed at a pukka rupee. While
this was going on, an alarming attack was made upon the intruders
from above. The proprietor's better half, having got tidings from
some busy-body of what was going on, descending took up a
position above us, and began to wag her tongue violently, as some
of the dear creatures can do. Not relishing this music, and fearing
that, if she was not satisfied, we should have a constant repetition of
it, I offered an additional half-rupee, explaining my reason for this
excessive liberality. This being interpreted to the Zemindar caused
him and the bystanders much merriment, for I fancy that I made a
hit in attributing a voluble tongue to this howling harridan. All was
now serene, and I was installed in my barley field under the fine
walnut tree; and much did I relish my homely meal, reposing under
its pleasant shade.
We had some talk on the prospect of sport here. There are ibex and
shâpu a few miles off, but not in any numbers, and the ground very
difficult: the latter information I regard little, feeling now equal to
anything. I despatched a villager, professing to know the haunts of
the animals, to procure accurate information; and on Monday mean
to try my fortunes in the chase again. I fancy myself now inured to
disappointment and ill-luck.
My tree did not effectually protect me from the sun when declining
from its meridian height; so about 2 P.M. it was oppressively hot, and
continued so long after sunset. I had not calculated on so sudden a
33. change of temperature, and was really unwell from its effects. Lama
Yurru always afforded a cool refreshing breeze; and there is a
considerable difference in the altitude of the two places, which gives
that place the advantage of the cooling influence of the snows on
the neighbouring mountain heights, from which Kalsee is too distant
to benefit at this season.
I turned into my little oven of a tent, the heat very great, and
innumerable sandflies adding their torments to its discomforts.
15th July. Sunday. After a restless night I arose not feeling much
refreshed, but taking a stroll, and ascending a hill, the fresh morning
air and fine bold scenery gradually had its beneficial effect on mind
and body. I mounted some distance, expecting a prospect in the
direction we should proceed to-morrow, where, by the way, Subhan
and Mooktoo have gone on their own suggestion to look about and
make enquiries. I found the view intercepted by an elevation too
considerable to encounter as I felt, so sat down amid the boulders,
still having a splendid prospect up the Indus, not seeing much of the
river but the adjacent mountains which were more varied in form
and broken up than usual here; and the colouring was this morning
rich, and yet subdued and toned down under the effects of a
delicious haze, the soft morning light sobering the too glaring
browns of these naked rocks, leading them away from the
foreground by imperceptible variations of shade—here and there a
suspicion of olive green—until they were lost in the pervading blues
and greys of distance. The tone was soft and mellow yet cool. I was
charmed; and my mind soon took that devotional phase which such
influences are so apt to produce.
I returned in mind serene and cheerful to camp. I had directed my
tent to be shifted a few feet, by which move it was in shade all day,
and consequently I felt the heat less. Indeed, I did not experience
any discomfort from it, as a strong breeze from northward was
blowing, rustling among the leaves overhead, and sweeping with
pleasant music over the green crops bending and waving to its
pressure, which would have imparted an idea, if not a reality, of
34. coolness to one, had it been actually hotter. The shikarries returned,
reporting the ground to be entirely devoid of even the tracks of
game. They had extended their search over an extensive range, and
had interrogated some native shikarries shooting partridges, but the
result ever the same—nothing. We agreed, therefore, to shift camp
to-morrow some eight miles further towards Leh, and there try our
luck. This country, however, is so barren and desolate that I despair
of sport here.
After dinner the shikarries came for a chat. I was interested in their
account of the brothers Schlagentweit who were some time in
Cashmere, prosecuting their explorations in natural science. Subhan
had been in their employ for some months, collecting specimens for
them; and his account thereof, and his amazement at such, to him,
worthless rubbish being thus treasured and sent to Europe, was very
droll. It escaped in the course of his narrative, that these talented
naturalists were, from their mysterious experiments, more than
suspected of connection with the Evil One, and of practising
sorceries, &c.
Subhan, trying to put on an air of unconcern and incredulity, evident
uncertainty and suspicion evincing themselves in his tone and
manner, described how these 'savans' mysteriously and with cautious
secrecy dug holes in a garden at night, covering them over, and
leaving a candle or lamp burning near, he and others being ordered
to watch and see that no one meddled. "Nobody," said Subhan, "was
ever allowed to see what was put into these holes, and, when
questioned, the sahebs told them the matter was beyond their
comprehension," But, he added, it got about, and was confidently
asserted, that these strange operators had purchased a slave to
whom they administered doses of 'shrâb' (spirits) till he was
insensible: they then buried him in the ground, in order to make a
good specimen to add to their collection. The shikarries all eyed me
in that peculiar manner denoting a partial belief in a wonder, with a
certain sense of its improbability. I burst out laughing, of course, at
this extraordinary misconception of some scientific experiments, and
35. believe I removed this lurking suspicion of black deeds on the part of
the innocent philosophers from their deluded minds.
I understand that search is still being made after the effects of the
unfortunate one of these three, whose death in the wild regions
north-east of Simla is yet enveloped in obscurity. I heard just before
leaving the Punjab, that some tidings had been received, and there
were hopes of recovering the poor fellow's effects and papers, the
latter of which would, doubtless, prove valuable to science.
All arranged for a move to-morrow.
36. CHAPTER IX.
LEH.
16th July. We got off early as usual on such occasions: without
making any effort to start at a fixed time, we are always punctual to
5 A.M. within a minute or two. It was a cloudy morning, such as in
any other country would indicate rain. Our route lay along the Indus,
the surrounding scenery mountainous and barren, with no
redeeming features, until we had completed some six miles, which
brought us to the considerable village of Noorla, looking nice and
flourishing with its green fields and abundant fruit trees, apple and
peach, scattered about. We passed through this village, and then
turned up a watercourse to the left—north-east—and a mile or two
further on arrived at the village of Tahmoos, exhibiting a long stretch
of corn fields along the stream, with numbers of apple and peach
trees generally interspersed, also some fine flourishing walnuts.
Houses were grouped here and there, some on the hill-sides on
whose summits are visible what appear to be remains of an
extensive fort, but may only be the appurtenances of the Buddhist
monasteries and shrines which stand out conspicuously amongst
them.
The lamas are evidently strong in this neighbourhood. They, like the
monks of old in our native land, are to be found congregated in the
most fertile and richest spots in the country. The mode of life and
habits of these Buddhist recluses assimilate very much also to those
of the monks. They live in sloth and idleness on the labours of an
ignorant and superstitious population, in requital for their
maintenance and comfort performing such religious rites as their
formulary directs, and repeating prayers. But their principle
occupation, I am told, is blowing copper horns—from which I have
experience of their producing awful sounds—and drinking tea, which
37. they render a substantial article of food by mixing it with butter to
the consistency of batter. They wear a monastic dress of a dull red
colour. I saw one of the fraternity to-day—and a very ugly specimen
he was—pass by, two or three times, with a bright copper concern in
his hand about the size and shape of a cook's flour-dredging tin, to
which a string and tassel were attached which he kept twirling round
as he went. This was probably some devotional act.
We took up a narrow strip of ground shaded by walnut and peach
trees—not bad quarters—and here I breakfasted; which meal did not
pass over so pleasantly as usual. My milk brought with me was sour:
it was carried as usual in a soda-water bottle. I directed fresh to be
brought, and when it arrived it was very dirty, as is everything here.
Mooktoo and Subhan set to work to prepare it for my use, the
process as follows:—Subhan's turban was taken off and two end
folds used as a strainer, a portion being depressed into the neck of
the soda-water bottle; but as the milk did not run through freely
Mooktoo expedited its progress by stirring it up with his finger. This
not answering their expectations, the milk was strained into an
utensil belonging to them, and then poured into the bottle,
Mooktoo's fist encircling the neck answering the purpose of a funnel.
All this was openly operated before me, and the bottle, thus 'nicely'
replenished, presented to me with a satisfied smile of successful
ingenuity. Well, it was as good as usual. Believing that such modes
of remedying difficulties are constantly in use with our servants, I
determined not to be squeamish,—but must confess that my dog,
Sara, had most of the milk.
This spot is surrounded by rocky mountains, huge, bare, and
rugged. Little prospect of shikar, I think: so I declined Subhan's
suggestion to go forth and try my luck to-morrow, not relishing the
thoughts of the tremendous exertions with so little hope to cheer me
up, but preferring that Subhan and Mooktoo should experimentalise
alone, and on their report I go or not. I expect nothing from their
explorations.
38. 17th July. I enjoyed a pleasant stroll before breakfast, descending to
the stream and following its course upwards some little distance,
then turning and passing through the verdant crops, so fresh and
pleasant, with their many willow trees and numerous rose-bushes
scattered about in the divisions or fences. The fields were full of
people industriously engaged weeding, &c., all of whom saluted me
respectfully.
Mooktoo, pleading illness, had not accompanied Subhan in the
exploration; following whose direction in the afternoon I thought I
might meet him on return, but having gone two or three miles I
returned and found him at camp, he having come back by a different
route. He had seen neither animals nor their traces throughout the
wide tract he had examined.
There was no use remaining here, so I gave directions for moving on
to-morrow to Hemschi, a place reported to be good for shikar. But
we have information of a saheb being there, who has come from
Simla by the Roopschoo road.
After dinner Subhan and Mooktoo came to chat; and as we
discussed the demerits of this miserable country, Subhan hinted the
advantage of a trip to the Karakorum mountains on the road from
Leh to Yarkand, provided we could procure authentic information of
the shikar being as abundant there as travellers reported. A friend of
Mooktoo, a merchant whom he met in the Wurdwan, had
recommended him to take me there, assuring him that animals of
several kinds were not only very abundant but tame. I readily
entertained this project; and we remained considering and planning
a long time, all three quite elated by the glowing pictures of
successful sport we conjured up. We set down Phuttoo as too old
and unsound for this arduous enterprise, strengthening this
disqualification by a strong suspicion we all held of his bad luck, as,
somehow or other, my failures always take place when he is present,
my successes during his absence—strong presumptive evidence of
his kizmet not being prosperous.
39. I turned in, excited by the visions of the mighty yâks I should
encounter in this field unexplored by European hunter.
18th July. A long, tedious ascent of some six or seven miles, and
then a moderate descent brought us to Hemschi, a straggling village
in a wilderness of stones covering a valley through which a stream
wanders to the Indus. The fields have been cleared with immense
labour, and are fenced in by the rounded stones simply placed one
on the other to the height of three feet. Just as we arrive at the
cultivation, are found surrounding a small rocky eminence a number
of strange looking trees of the fir species, which at first I conceived
to be cedars, but on a close examination in the evening believe them
to be junipers of unusual proportions and of an antiquity dating
centuries back. These are the first trees of the sort I have seen in
the country, and there are none others to be heard of. This would
induce the belief that they are not indigenous.
I fixed the site of my bivouac on a barren rocky hill, the best the
place afforded, and breakfasted beneath the shade of a spreading
rose bush, bearing an abundance of fine blossoms of a large, full,
double kind, but wanting in fragrance—still a most agreeable canopy.
My effects to day, as yesterday, were in part borne on the shoulders,
not delicate, of women, they always bearing their share of like
burdens, their share by far the largest. They appeared quite at home
at the labour, and seemed rather to like it, laughing and chatting
cheerfully—the hideous, good-humoured wretches. They, one and
all, here wear a remarkable coiffure:—a black leather or cloth flap or
lappet being worn under the hair so as to protect the ears, to this a
fringe is appended, and the frowzy locks in plaits are brought over it
in loops, and are tucked up behind, having much the appearance our
own dames might have, if after adjusting their chevelure they
rubbed their heads for a considerable time in the coal skuttle, and
then were dragged through a furze bush. Still there was a sort of
resemblance to the style. In every individual the hair is parted in the
centre, and over this central division is placed an ornament, a black
band on which are fastened pieces of turquoise, some very large—
40. the biggest often as large as a walnut—in front over the forehead,
from which they are continued in regular order to the nape of the
neck, where further observation is cut short by the goat skin cloak
from beneath which a tuft appears, which is to all appearance the
tail appendage of the hair and said band which, I fancy, are in some
measure connected and twisted together, hanging down the back,
like that of the Cashmiries.
No prospect of sport here, the saheb we had heard of having, as we
were informed, unsuccessfully hunted the neighbourhood.
19th July. The early part of to-day's march was very trying and
fatiguing. The road, crossing two or three minor ranges of the
system of mountains, was nothing but climbing steep hills—again,
after descending, to repeat the same monotonous toil; all around
barren and desolate as usual. We passed two small cultivated
patches, and reached Leiker, a good-sized village with one or two
quite imposing looking houses, well-built of sun-dried brick, with
rows of small windows. Subhan reported this to be Bazgoo, the
place we designed to halt at. But after breakfast it was discovered to
be Leiker, and Bazgoo some distance on.
About half-past ten we again set out, and endured a dreadful
scorching over some arid sandy plains. A village, seen far in the
distance, seemed to fly from us. I supposed it to be Bazgoo, and
was surprised to find on reaching the top of a gentle rise a sudden
deep declivity descending into an extensive valley, and immediately
below us a large thriving village. This was Bazgoo. But we had to
proceed, passing along by houses and many Buddhist structures of
more than ordinary size and dignity, until gaining the end of the
village we halted under a fine large apple tree, offering the only
shade in an uncultivated spot. We were huddled up close together,
which was not satisfactory, and led to my having to enforce silence
after enduring the annoyance of much jabber passively, long after I
had retired to bed.
41. 20th July. We got away this morning at half-past four, having a long
and difficult march to accomplish. About four miles of level sandy
plain, passing some Buddhist monuments of very great length, some
three or four hundred yards long, the extremities finished by large
urnlike masses of masonry on step-formed pedestals, the sides of
the latter ornamented with figures in plaister—many of these
structures were met with during the day, all being covered with the
sculptured stones already described—to a large and flourishing
village, that seen from the distance yesterday, Mimah. We then
ascended through a ravine twisting and winding, ploughing our way
through heavy sand and grit—three-quarters of an hour's most
tiresome labour—when, reaching the top, a more open, level country
presented itself; which gradually widening opened out into extensive
plains of barren sand gradually dipping the Indus, and what looked
like a swampy country in the distance, with many snow-capped
mountains filling in the background.
We passed a lama fort-like building perched on a hill in the middle of
cultivation, on the left, and a small village, on the right (Piang); then
descended to the very brink of the Indus which here, instead of
rushing violently between high precipitous banks, meanders in
divided waters through an expanse of flat meadows covered with
grassy turf, a small village dotting the surface here and there. An
enormous bank, of miles in length apparently, and one or two in
breadth, slopes down in one unbroken line from the mountains to
the river's brink on the other (the southern) side; producing a
singular effect, looking like an enormous mud bank solidified—
brown, barren, and stony. Turning the spur of a range coming right
down to the river, an expanse of green turf opens before one, a fort-
like building on a high rock in front, and an enclosed garden near it.
For this I made, now rather knocked up, my right foot being sore
from chafing, causing me to limp heavily. I forced open the door of
the garden which only contained willows and poplars, and, finding a
tolerable house in the middle empty, took possession of the same,
well satisfied with such good shelter, and anxious for refreshment
after five hours' most fatiguing tramp.
42. I sent out to find some messenger to send in to Leh with orders to
the thanadar, Basti Ram, to send me a tattoo on which to complete
my journey in the afternoon. Coolies under the sepoy made their
appearance, and were ordered on, but exchanged at a village close
by—this was the third change to day—and, soon after, Subhan
trotted up with four tattoos which he had engaged for our party.
I remained under shelter till 4 P.M.; then mounted and took the route
to Leh; which place we soon sighted on crossing an elevation, its
remarkable fort, formerly the palace of the Rajahs of Ladâk,
standing out conspicuous, looking out from the top of a rocky hill
under which the city appears to repose.
There was now a dreary plain of gritty sand to be traversed which
was unspeakably tiresome, being four or five miles in extent, the sun
and glare cruelly strong. This passed, we reached rugged, irregular,
cultivated ground, where a good strong nag, of the Bokhara breed, I
fancy, sent by Basti Ram, met me; on which I was glad to mount,
having with difficulty urged the little mare I was on to a smart walk,
she constantly stopping to look after the safety of a small foal,
following whinnying behind.
Some way further on a 'posse' appeared, comprising the two sons of
Basti Ram in gay attire, with some sepoys in dirty ditto, waiting to
receive and welcome me to the city of Leh. We exchanged courteous
greeting; and I pursued my way thus escorted to the outskirts of the
city (so called), over an infamous path of stones, ditches, and drains,
running over the partitions of the fields, when I accorded 'congée' to
the gentlemen attending me, and, preceded by an official, made my
way to a garden, or enclosure, containing poplars and willow trees,
where I found my tent and belongings awaiting me, and was heartily
glad of a good wash, nor at all disinclined for dinner afterwards. This
was a very long day. I have now reached another prominent point in
my travels, where I must, perforce, remain some days, until my
effects from Sirinuggur arrive, of which I have no tidings.
43. Leh is certainly picturesque, but further than that I can say nothing
at present in its favour: but imagine it to be a dirty, insignificant
place, the fitting capital of a miserable country, and a low degraded
population. We shall see.
By the way, I must not omit that, in the narrow ravine on this side
Mimah, whose sandy depths caused us so much exertion to traverse,
we overtook a party of villagers proceeding with asses laden with
firewood to Leh. This being distant some fourteen miles was pretty
strong testimony to the nakedness of the environs of Leh. With this
party was one in ordinary attire as themselves, but of the clergy—in
fact, a lama; and in his hand he carried one of those bright copper
affairs I had noticed at Tahmoos. This article was in shape like a
child's rattle of large size, the upper or box portion revolving on its
axis, the handle. To the box was attached a string some two or three
inches long, with a tassel at the end. I now had a good opportunity
of ascertaining the use of this singular instrument; and the lama
without more ado sat down by the way, and commenced revolving
the box, at the same time rolling his eyes about, and mumbling
uncouth sounds, stated to be sentences of prayer and adoration, the
number of which were calculated by the revolutions of the
instrument, indicated by the swinging tassel.
21st July. I arose vigorous and fresh, the night having been cool and
pleasant, and just loitered about this enclosure in which I find a tent,
horse, and dogs, and attendants of Major Tryon, 7th R.F., who, they
tell me, has been in these parts some twenty days, and is now
across the Indus shooting, having been away eight days.
About eleven o'clock a saheb rode into the enclosure with many
attendants. He turned out to be a Mr. Johnstone, of the Survey, at
work in this vicinity. I asked him up to my tent, where we had a long
chat; to me a great treat, as I have not seen an European since I
left Sirinuggur, now nearly ten weeks. I asked my new acquaintance
to share my humble fare at 6 P.M.
44. I was visited by a nephew of my friend Ahmet Shah of Islamabad,
who is in a similar position here to his uncle at that place, being
kardar of a large pergunnah, adding to this office the important
duties of government moonshi. This rencontre is fortunate as he can
give me reliable information of the Karakorum road and country, and
also aid me in my purchases and arrangements. As yet the caravan
of merchants from Yarkand has not arrived; but they are within five
or six stages of Leh. On their arrival he will make searching enquiries
as to the chance of success in those regions.
The shikarries, it strikes me, are not so keen now the time
approaches to carry out our project, as they were when it was only
in embryo. I notice a perceptible lengthening of visage and a
melancholy tone in discussing the question, which I attribute to
rumours afloat of the Yarkand road being frequented by robbers. It
is certain that a merchant of this place was, not long since,
plundered of all his property somewhere between here and Yarkand.
But that they are afraid of my reproaches, and aware of the
uselessness of such a course, I verily believe they would attempt to
dissuade me from going now, and I must be careful not to let them
humbug me with false reports. I know them to be capable of any
amount of falsehoods, of any calibre. Phuttoo wears a particularly
suspicious sneaking look to-day, from which I surmise him to be
plotting some deceitful trick or other.
I strolled just outside the enclosure in the afternoon, and find Leh to
be situated within an arc, almost a complete circle, formed by
rugged, naked hills, spurs of a lofty range of mountains—running to
all appearance north and south, or thereabouts, in the rear of Leh—
from which these spurs stretch down to the Indus, embracing the
plain of Leh, leaving open the space debouching on the Indus, up
which I came. Leh itself is built upon a ridge which projects from the
centre of this arc some short distance into the plain, occupying its
extremity—that is, the large building before-mentioned does; but the
town is placed on the southern face of the ridge. With the exception
of the comparatively small extent of irrigated fields, all around is
45. bare and desolate. Looking from Leh across the Indus, is seen a
tract of cultivation of considerable extent, running up into a valley,
clusters of houses here and there giving it a cheerful, prosperous
aspect. This, I am told, is the village of the rightful owner of Ladâk,
where he resides in humble obscurity.
22nd July. Sunday. I find no place to walk to out of this enclosure, all
outside being either fields or rough barren ground with difficult
paths. The town looks uninviting, so I remained in my tent.
The jemadar, a civil, obliging, intelligent man, in the afternoon
informed me that Basti Ram, the thanadar, was waiting in his house,
prepared to pay me a visit, if I could receive him. I, of course,
assented; and ere long, preceded by a dirty band of soldiery, he
made his appearance, seated in a janpan, which being halted at the
requisite respectful distance, the old gentleman was assisted
forward, and I requested him to be seated on a 'rizai' which had
been spread for him. He is a pleasing-looking old man, of mild
aspect, bodily infirm, but with a voice still strong. We chatted a long
time; and I hinted at the Karakorum with regard to shikar, but he
evidently disapproves of my going in that direction, saying, that the
road was bad, the country barren, and no shikar, but that in the
Chan-than and Roopschoo country game abounded. He politely
assured me of his desire to furnish me with all I required, to any
extent, in money, horses, or men.
I questioned him about the sad fate of the poor Schlagentweit
brother; and he gave me a long narrative, from which I gather that
the unfortunate traveller was plundered on the way to Yarkand; that
he reached that place, and thence proceeded on to the Kokand
country, where he rode into the presence of a chief, Walli Khan, who,
feeling or pretending to feel insulted, ordered his attendants to cut
him down, which was instantly done; and thus the unfortunate M.
Schlagentweit was murdered, and all his effects plundered. But
these had been previously seized, and probably he was then in
search of justice, and the restoration of his property. Walli Khan has
since denied all share in the death of the saheb; and as he is a
46. powerful chief, with a strong fortress on a steep hill, the thanadar
said, "What can be done?" Several men have been sent to try and
recover the effects, and procure unmistakable testimony to the
circumstances of the murder; but they state all the property to have
been scattered here and there in remote parts of Turkistan, and
have discovered nothing further as to the foul deed. I am in hopes
of yet ascertaining more, when the Yarkand merchants arrive, but it
must be acquired through tact and judgment, all enquiries being
regarded suspiciously, as perhaps connected with ulterior designs.
After a satisfactory interview Basti Ram took leave, the jemadar
remaining behind, and giving some interesting particulars of the
country north of Leh, through part of which the road to Yarkand
runs. The district is called the Lobrah pergunnah; and the jemadar,
who once travelled there with a saheb, Dr. Thomson, declares it to
abound with game. It is a fertile country, he says, highly cultivated,
with abundance of everything. It is reached in three days; in three
more a place, called Gopoor, where are upland plains abounding with
wild animals; but the yâk is not there met with. Four or five days
further travelling in an uninhabited tract will bring one to grassy
plains, called Moorgaby: there are yâk, and kyang, and other
animals. I requested the jemadar to try and find a resident of
Lobrah, who could give me precise information as to the best
shooting grounds. This he promised to do.
23rd July. I sent the shikarries and Abdoolah into the town to try and
get good reliable information about the Lobrah country, roads, &c.
They still bring only vague reports; but all unite in describing the
country as possessing much game. There is an evident disinclination
to supply information of this part of the country; but through Ahmet
Shah's relative, and the jemadar, his friend and subordinate, I
believe that I shall succeed in extracting it.
A cloudy day, and a heavy thunderstorm across the Indus, which in
time found its way here, describing a semicircular sweep, and
coming down upon us with violent gusts of wind, making the poplars
and willows bend double. After a time there were heavy drops; then
47. an undecided rain keeping on and off, ever threatening to come
down in torrents.
After dinner the jemadar came to report progress; but, further than
that the thanadar was willing to further my views in that direction,
he merely repeated what he had said before as to game in the
Lobrah country. But the bridge over a large river on the way having
been broken down, the thanadar had sent his son to have it
repaired, and to give orders for my reception, as also to get ready
some men acquainted with the haunts of game. So all goes well—if
my things would but arrive, of which as yet no tidings. A rainy
evening keeping me in till bed-time, I took refuge early in my
blankets.
24th July. There was much rain during the night, and a cloudy
morning of which I took advantage to visit the town, with a view to
select a site for a sketch. The air was cool and fresh, and the roads
cleansed by the rain. There are some curious buildings in the town
which is very small—a mere village: but there is a good wide street
in which is the bazaar,—the shops, small dens in an uniform row on
either side. This street is about three hundred yards long, and opens
into the serai, a yard surrounded by other dens in which were some
dirty travellers. Through this we went, and, passing by the burial
ground, ascended a small isolated hill on the top of which is a
nondescript building. From the side of this hill is a good view of the
town, with the Rajah's residence towering over it; and higher again
than that, some way removed up the same ridge, is a lama
monastery. Others are on the side of the hill. The whole scene is
extremely curious and picturesque. I peeped into some of the little
shops, and saw there, of course, Manchester cottons of the most
brilliant hues. But nearly every shop was empty, this place being
really but an 'entrepôt' affording accommodation to the traffic
between Yarkand, Cashmere, and the plains. By all accounts Yarkand
is a place of much importance, and a great mart, merchants from all
the surrounding regions meeting there for trade and exchange of
commodities.
48. I visited Bella Shah, the principal merchant, who has a comfortable
house in the Eastern style—an intelligent-looking man. I had an
interesting conversation with him. By the way, had I not applied
myself to the study of Hindostani, how much I should have lost. He
had been to Yarkand, and described the country as most fertile, the
town as a grand place, rich and populous. He further told me that,
eight days' journey from Yarkand, on this side, large herds of yâk are
met with, and that the country generally abounds with game; that
the road is not so very difficult; wood scarce certainly in places, but
always something, sticks, weeds, or horsedung to be got for a fire
large enough to cook with. This is the information I was wanting;
and my mind is now settled to cross the Karakorum range, the pass
over which, he assures me, is a very easy one.
After a long and profitable visit I departed, the shikarries, who had
attended me, greatly elated at the news. I returned to breakfast
very 'koosh,' my domestics listening with glistening eyes to Bella
Shah's 'kubbur,' evidently sharing the pleasure I experienced. I was
busy writing after breakfast, preparing letters, and bringing up
journal to this point, when consciousness of some one near me
caused me to look up, and there stood Suleiman, Catechist. I was
delighted to see him. He had preceded my baggage, being mounted.
He was well, and reported well of my other people, animals and
property. He had distributed nearly all the books in Sirinuggur, both
to Cashmiries and others: he had once been all but involved in a
serious disturbance, some bigoted mussulman, with whom he was
disputing, having denounced him as an enemy of the faith, worthy
of death. But a pundit, whose friendship he had happily acquired,
interfered, and peace was restored.
There was heavy rain in the afternoon; such a down-pour is very
rare here. My things did not arrive until five; my two tattoos in fair
condition, considering the journey and privations endured in such a
country. Little Fan, thin and amazed, did not recognise me: her three
pups are thriving. I received some letters, and lots of papers;
favourable reports of all my property from the sirdar.
49. About dinner time Bella Shah was announced, and with him a
propitiatory 'nuzzur' of sugar candy and dried fruit. We had a long
conversation, in the course of which he confirmed the account given
by Basti Ram of the fate of poor Schlagentweit; and again gave me
glowing accounts of the abundance of yâk on the other side the
Karakorum range. Most exciting were his reminiscences. He laughed
at the idea of danger from the Yarkandies; who, he said, came
constantly to hunt the yâk, taking the flesh back to Yarkand for sale.
He declared that, far from interfering with me, if I offered them a
rupee or so, they would shew me the best grounds, and assist me in
my hunting. He said that the Yarkand people would never attack an
European, though close to the town, or even in the streets; but if he
entered a house, then they would set upon him.
The shikarries, who were listening attentively to all that was said,
and occasionally joining in, became very merry at this welcome
intelligence; and after Bella Shah's departure were vehement in their
desire and determination to go over the Karakorum. Before leaving,
Bella Shah promised to find me a man well acquainted with the
road, and the places where the yâk are to be found; though he
assures me there is no difficulty about that, as they abound
everywhere. We are all very 'koosh,' every thing promising
auspiciously, and so much unexpected aid offering in furtherance of
my project.
25th July. I set to work casting bullets before breakfast. It is strange,
but these shikarries cannot be trusted to cast any but ordinary
spherical bullets. They are too indolent to learn anything, and too
careless to be depended upon. I had to dismiss Phuttoo from even
attending the ladle to clear away the dross, and install Buddoo in his
place, so negligent was he. I continued at this tedious work till
breakfast time, by which time I was quite baked, the fire blazing in
front of me, and the sun equally hot on my back. Buddoo and my
bearer continued the operation, and, to my relief and satisfaction,
succeeded capitally.
50. Suleiman and my servants being urgent for me to send off letters,
including theirs, I set to work and wrote for six hours at a stretch,
which, as I wrote with paper on knee, stooping over it, gave me a
headache; but I managed to finish nine letters in all, including one
to General Windham urgently soliciting a month's extension of leave,
to enable me to carry out my schemes comfortably. I continued very
dizzy; talked over arrangements, and decided to settle and pack up
to-morrow, and start the day following.
26th July. An awful night, never to be forgotten! Having read till I
was sleepy, I gave way to nature, glad enough to feel the
inclination; but awoke after an hour or two with a racking head-ache
—terrible agony—such as I remember to have experienced only
twice before, and then was driven nearly mad. I tried in vain to find
alleviation, or to court repose. Hours passed in agony indescribable;
when, as a last resource, hoping to obtain relief in sleep, I got up,
and in the dark helped myself to brandy and water. Had I had
laudanum, I should have swallowed it readily. This remedy seemed
only to increase the malady; but, after a time, its influence threw me
into a slumber, and I awoke at daylight—and how thankful to find on
collecting myself that the acute pains had subsided, and but an
ordinary head-ache remained! I had a cup of tea, and strolled about
inspecting my property. Having had everything unpacked for
selection, I set aside as few things as possible, wishing to avoid the
necessity of many coolies in the inhospitable deserts we should
traverse.
I was looking at my tattoo, when two respectable-looking natives
approached, and divining their purpose I entered into conversation
with them. They were merchants from Kokand, now five years from
their native country, having been impeded in their trade and
movements by the late rebellion. They described their country as a
delightful region, abounding in the most delicious fruits, &c.
After breakfast I called Suleiman, and, taking with me some physic
and Holloway's ointment, went to see a servant of Major Tryon's,
who, they told me, had some days since run a nail into his hand,
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