Manicure preparations ppt
- 2. “YOUR NAILS ARE A WAY TO SPEAK YOUR STYLE WITHOUT HAVING TO SAY A WORD.” -Tammy Taylor MANICURE TREATMENT GUIDED BY.., VANITHA.N, RAJESHWARI.V, ASHWIN.A, B.PHARMACY, KMCH COP.
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- 4. ANATOMY OF NAIL FREE EDGE (FOR FRENCH MANICURE) NAIL PLATE (FOR NAIL LACQUERS, NAIL ENAMEL REMOVER) LANULA – HALF MOON SHAPED (FOR FRENCH MANICURE) LATERAL FOLD CUTICLE (FOR CUTICLE REMOVER & SOFTENER)
- 5. INTRODUCTION.., • Nails are transparent protective coverings on finger tips and toes of feet. • The care of nails is referred to as manicure. • Manicure is a cosmetic treatment of the hands involving shaping and often painting the nails, removal of cuticles and softening of skin. Manicure preparations include: 1) Nail lacquers/ enamel/paint/varnish 2) Enamel remover 3) Cuticle remover 4) Cuticle softener 5) Nail cream 6) Nail bleach 7) Powder polish
- 7. NAIL LACQUERS • NAIL POLISH is actually a wrong name for nail care products since no actual polishing is involved. In this application so technically the correct name is NAIL LACQUER. • However the terms nail polish, nail enamel, nail varnish , nail paint and nail lacquer are used interchangeably. • These products are applied by painting the nail with a brush. The product is composed of dissolved resins and dries to a hard glossy coat.
- 8. DEFINITION: Nail lacquers are viscous preparations intended to decorate nails for fingers and toes. In best manicure practices : • first a base coat is applied followed by two coats of coloured nail lacquers and finally a top coat layer . • the base coat increases adhesion of coloured nail lacquer to the nail while the top coat increases the chip resistance characteristic of nail lacquer.
- 9. It should have proper viscosity wetting and flow properties. It should have uniform colour. It should have good gloss and good adhesive properties. It should have sufficient flexibility so that it does not crack (or) become brittle. It should have sufficient hard surface which is resistant to impact and scratch. It should have reasonable drying time(1-2 minutes) without developing bloom. It should be able to maintain the above mentioned properties for a reasonable time (about 1 week). IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS..,
- 10. CLASSIFICATION
- 11. CLASSIFICATION OF NAIL LACQUERS PEARLED NAIL LACQUERS • Lacquer base • Colourants • Pearl essence CREAMY NAIL LACQUERS • Lacquer base • Organic & inorganic pigmants.
- 12. FORMULATION
- 13. FORMULATION LAQUER BASE • Film former • Resin • Solvent • Plasticizer COLOURING AGENTS • Dyes • Lakes • Pigments • Pearl essence • Colour stabilisers OTHER FORMULATING AGENTS • Thixotropic agents • Opacifying agents • UV absorbers • Perfumes
- 14. LACQUER BASE FILM FORMERS • Impart hardness, toughness, resistance to abrasion, viscosity to some extent. Ex: Nitrocellulose is widely used, based on viscosity. SR Nitrocellulose : 10.7 – 11.2% nitrogen RR Nitrocellulose : 11.2 – 12.8% nitrogen Others include cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butyrate, ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers and various polymers of methacrylate. PLASTICIZERS • Keep the resins flexible, softener and less lightly to chip. Eg: Camphor, castor oil, Dibutyl phthalate. • Hence other plasticizer used are triphenyl phosphate , timethylpentanyl diisobutarate, acetyl tributylcitrate.
- 15. RESINS • It hold the ingredients together while forming a strong film on the nail. • Resins are polymers which are long chain molecules solid and gummy in the pure state . • Two types of resins are used Hard glossy resin which give the lacquered nail its desired appearance. Example: Nitro cellulose, methacrylate polymers and copolymers Soft pliable resin which enhance adhesion and flexibility. Example: Tosyl amide, formaldehyde resins, polyvinyl butyral, poly ester resins. COMMERCIAL RESINS: Santolite MHP, Santolite MS 80%.
- 16. SOLVENTS • It is the carrier for lacquers. • They must dissolve the resin, suspend the pigments and evaporate leaving a smooth film . • The drying speed must be controlled to prevent bubbling and skinning. • Optimum drying rate requires a blend of solvents. • All solvents have a dehydrating and defatting action on the skin . • Solvents are in 3 inter-related categories: ACTIVE SOLVENTS: true solvents. EX: esters, ketones and glycol ethers. COUPLERS: increase the strength of other solvents but not as solvents. DILUENTS: non-solvents for nitrocellulose. Used to stabilise viscosity. Example : Ethyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol, n- butyl acetate.
- 17. COLOURANTS • Impart acceptable shade to the lacquer base. • The colourants must comply with the terms of DCA. • Should disperse well. Be resistant to light, acids and alkali. • Be non-stain and produce a good gloss. DYES It is now abandoned due to stain on surface & surrounding of nail. EX: Eosin, erythrosine, rhodamine. LAKES It is used in the lake form organic colourants are adsorbed (or) co-precipitated on inorganic substrate such as silicates, oxide. PIGMENTS Insoluble in lacquers. EX: Titanium dioxide, iron oxide, ultramarine blue, chrome oxide green, etc.., COLOUR STABILIZERS: Benzophenone 1 and etocrylene are added to prevent shifting of colour upon exposure to UV light, they are known as sunscreens since they protect the colour.
- 18. OTHER FORMULATING AGENTS THIXOTROPIC AGENTS It provide flow control and keep the colourant dispersed. EX: Clay derivatives like stearalkonium bentonite (or) hectorite. OPACIFYING AGENTS These are whitening agents which to develop shades which will reflect the same colour on the nails as they are in the bottle. EX: Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. UV ABSORBERS To prevent deterioration of ingredients due to UV light. EX: Benzophenones. PERFUMES Used mainly to counteract the unpleasant odour of the solvents. EX: Synthetic perfumes are preferred. ANTIFUNGAL AGENTS ARE ADDED FOR THERAPEUTIC PURPOSE.
- 19. PREPARATION
- 20. FORMULA FOR RED COLOUR N LACQUER • NITROCELLULOSE – FILM FORMER • BUTYL ACETATE - SOLVENT • TOLUENE - SOLVENT • TOLUENE SULPHONAMIDE FORMALDEHYDE RESIN - RESIN • DIBUTYL PTHALATE - PLASTICIZER • CAMPHOR - PLASTICIZER • STEARYLKONIUM HECTORITE – THIXOTROPIC AGENT • BENZOPHENONE – UV ABSORBER • CALCIUM LAKE - COLOURANTS • ALUMINIUM LAKE - COLOURANTS • BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE - COLOURANTS • IRON OXIDES - PIGMENT
- 21. MANUFACTURE • GRINDING OF PIGMENTS • MANUFACTURE OF NAIL LACQUERS • MIXING OF PIGMENTS WITH LACQUER • SAFETY ASPECTS
- 22. • Add 75% of the solvent & whole diluent in a mixer. Mix well with agitation. • Nitrocellulose is then added with stirrer. Solvent, plasticizer &resin is added. • Mixing is continued for several hours until solution of all ingredients is complete. Clear liquid is formed. • Passed through filter press (or) centrifuged. • Pigmented chips (or) concentrated tinters are added & mixing is continued. • Nail lacquer product is formed.
- 23. EVALUATIONS
- 24. • COLOUR • SURFACE SHINE OR GLOSS • DRYING RATE • NON VOLATILE CONTENT • APPLICATION • VISCOSITY • SMOOTHNESS • ADHESION • WATER RESISTANCE • STABILITY EVALUATIONS
- 25. COLOUR Colour of each batch is checked by comparing it with master colour standard. SURFACE SHINE (or) GLOSS Surface shine (or) gloss is determined visually. DRYING TIME • Apply a thin flim of the sample with a 0.006”applicator under controlled condition of temperature and humidity at 25 degree Celsius and 50% RH to a completely non porous glass plate or melamine coated paper. • Note the time required to form a dry to touch film • Dry to touch is a condition in which a film may be touched with a clear finger tip without transfer of any material to the tip.
- 26. APPLICATION Application is tested by evenness , smoothness of brushing and streaking. VISCOSITY Viscosity is determined by Brookfield viscometer. NON-VOLATILE CONTENT • 1 to 2g of the sample is placed in a flat tarred dish sample is spread and the dish placed in the oven at 105 degree Celsius for 1hour. • Remove the dish and weigh. • Reheat for 1hour and reweigh. • The greater weight loss value is used to calculate non volatile content.
- 27. DIRECTION Apply it over the nail with two coat for better finish. STORAGE Store in a well closed air-tight container. LABELLING Flammable. Keep away from heat and light. FOR MAKEUP PREPARATION. FOR EXTERNAL USE ONLY.
- 28. CONTAINERS OF NAIL LACQUERS
- 29. EXAMPLES
- 31. CUTICLE REMOVER
- 32. CUTICLE REMOVER • CUTICLE REMOVER is a substance used to remove the cuticle fro around the base of one’s nail. • Cuticle is a variety of tough but flexible , non mineral outer covering of an organism especially nails , that provide protection • The cuticle is the thick layer of skin surrounding finger nails and toe nails consisting of dead cells. • It protects the skin underneath from moisture and germs. • It mainly composed of insoluble proteins called cuticlins.
- 33. CUTICLE REMOVER TOOLS •Cuticle remover wrap tool •Cuticle pusher •Cuticle peeler •Cuticle scrapper •Cuticle eliminator •Cuticle exfoliater
- 34. CUTICLE PUSHER CUTICLE WRAPER CUTICLE ELIMINATOR CUTICLE EXFOLIATOR
- 35. FORMULATION TYPES •Gel remover •Liquid remover •Cream remover •Oil •Cuticle oil
- 37. METHODS The cuticle can be removed •Mechanically •Chemically ( liquids or creams that contain an alkali to destroy cuticle keratin).
- 38. FORMULATION • Sodium hydroxide – 2 to 5 % • Potassium hydroxide – 2 to 5 %(active agents) • Propylene glycol or glycerine – q.s. (humectant) • Methyl paraben ( preservative) • polymers • Perfume • Flavouring agents
- 39. • USE: Cuticle remover , callus softener , removes dead skin from nail plate, softens dry and tough callus area . • LABELLING: -Flammable . -Keep away from heat and flame. Keep out reach of children. -Harmful if taken internally .do not breath vapours. -For external use only. • STORAGE: Store in a well closed air tight container. • DIRECTION: Apply directly onto cuticle .pork with an orange stick , wraped in a peace of cotton wool for extra protection .wash hands after use to eliminate all traces of product from nails.
- 40. CUTICLE SOFTENER: • Milder preparations can be made with trisodium phosphate or tetra sodium phosphate but they are less effective. • They are some times combine with urea. FORMULATION: Tri sodium phosphate- 8% Glycerine-12g Water -80ml Perfume – q.s
- 42. NAIL ENAMEL REMOVER: • Nail removal or nail cleanser are defined as the mixture of solvents containing small amount of fat intended to remove the nail enamel. • The pH range should be in basic. Mainly at 7.
- 43. IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS • It should not be non irritant and non toxic to the surrounding skin. • It should not be too volatile to evaporate during application . • It should not leave the nails fatty or sticky. • It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails brittle . • It should not have unpleasant and obstructive odour .
- 44. TYPES OF POLISH REMOVER: ACETONE POLISH REMOVER • It is the most effective way to remove nail polish. • It is harsh and very drying to nails ,cuticle and skin. • It is best for infrequent polish removal and women who use very dark nail polish.
- 46. NON-ACETONE POLISH REMOVER •It is less drying effect to nails compared to acetone. •It require more effort to rub off the nail polish. •It is best for frequent polish remover and women with sensitive skin .
- 48. FORMULATION • SOLVENT – Acetone is most commonly used solvent which dissolves the lacquer more quickly and easily .Other solvents like methyl ethyl ketone ,ethyl acetate ,ethyl butarate ,liquid alkyl ester of higher acid and amino alcohols. • FATTING AGENTS-Most solvent has a strong drying effect. To avoid it some fat is usually added to the remover. eg: vegetable oil ,lanolin and its derivatives. • PERFUME- If the product contains large amount of acetones it is difficult to mask the odour .The easiest way to over come this problem is to add perfume.eg: orange turpine , turpeniol etc..
- 49. TYPE–1 REMOVEROROILREMOVER: It contains solvent blends and a small percentage of oily materials. FORMULA • Castor oil – 2.5% (moisturizer) • Diethylene glycol or mono ethyl ether – 14.5% (plasticizer and solvent) • Acetone -83% ( used for thinning of substances and solvent) DIFFERENT FORMS OF REMOVER
- 51. TYPE– 2 REMOVERORNON-SMEARINGENAMELORLIQUID REMOVER It contains water and water miscible solvents FORMULA: Ethyl acetate - 90% ( solvent and it has a sweet smell) Water – 10% METHOD: A simple remover prepared by mixing water and ethyl acetate. HOWTOUSE? It can be used with cotton ball or cotton pads dipped into the liquid remover and rub it gently.
- 53. TYPE–3 ORCREAMTYPEENAMELREMOVER It contains solvent , waxes and soap FORMULA Bees wax -3% ( shiny appearance) Micro crystalline wax – 1%( viscosity agent ,binder and emollient) Acetylated mono glycerides- 10% (surfactant ) Diethylene glycol -52% ( solvent and plasticizer) Ethyl acetate -15% (sweet odour) Stearic acid -15% ( fragrance, surfactant, emulsifier) Triethanol amine- 4% ( buffering agent , fragrance , surfactant) METHOD: Melt all ingredients except triethanol amine , add triethanol
- 55. TYPE–4 ORGELENAMELREMOVER It contains mainly hydroxyl propyl cellulose FORMULA • Hydroxy propyl cellulose -1% (prevents drying) • Butyrol acetone -75% (cleansing agent) • PPG 12 or PEG 50 or lanolin -1% ( smooth) • Pigment – 0.1% ( colouring) • 5% Sodium hydroxide –q.s ( alkali or destroy the nail matrix) • Water – 100ml
- 57. TYPE–5 ORCONDITIONINGNAILPOLISHREMOVER It contains malleated soya bean oil and acetone FORMULA • Malleated soya bean oil -10%(surfactant) • Acetone-90%( solvent) METHOD Simple mixing of oil in the solvent
- 59. EVALUATION • Non-volatilecontent : Take known amount of remover and apply on a plate of flat surface. weight of the residual film after evaporation of solvent will indicate the non volatile content. • Dryingrate: Take product on flat surface and note down the time required for complete evaporation of the solvent. • Smoothness and hardness • Adhesion: It is by removing the flim by mechanically and noting down the force required to remove . • Viscosity : Can be measured by any viscometer.
- 60. PACKAGING • The product are best packed in plastic bottle with inner seal . • Glass and metal bottles are alternative packaging material but they are very expensive and bulky. LABELLING: • Keep in tightly closed container . • Keep away from heat and flame. • Keep out reach of children. • Keep in cool and dry place. CATEGORY: Decolourising agent
- 61. NAIL ART
- 62. DEFINITION • NAIL ART is a creative way to paint, decorate, enhance and embellish the nails. • It’s a type of artwork that can be done on fingernails and toe nails, usually manicure and a pedicure. • A manicure and a pedicure are beauty treatments that trim, shape and polish the nail.
- 64. STEP 1 • Remove old nail polish. Make sure you're starting with a clean slate by removing any old polish still lingering on your nails.
- 65. STEP 2 • Trim and file your nails. • Shape your nails to make them neat. Since you're creating nail art, try not to trim them too short. It's better to have more space to work with.
- 66. STEP 3 • Apply a basecoat. Basecoats are usually clear or bluish in color, and can be purchased wherever nail polish is sold. Basecoats protect your nails from getting stained or damaged by nail polish and other nail art materials. Apply one layer of basecoat and allow it to completely dry before proceeding.Some basecoats remain tacky after drying. This texture is meant to help the next layer, the polish, stay in place longer without chipping. Choose whichever basecoat you like best.
- 67. VARIOUS TYPES OF NAIL
- 68. VARIOUS NAIL ART