The Mikado Japanese restaurant, located in the Royal Princess Hotel, tries to offer more than what you might expect from your average Japanese dining experience. They succeed because oftheir great attention to detail and the fact that their chef, a Thai, has been preparing Japanese food for 22 years. The simple, traditional interior of the restaurant, white plaster walls with lots of black lacquer trim and pink upholstery, creates a look of stark simplicity that is contrasted by the rich complexity of the menu. Most people think of tempura, sushi, teriyaki and maybe sashimi and yakitori when Japanese food comes to mind. All that is here at Mikado, but also much more. The 18-page menu contains everything from set meals ta ala carte sushi to traditional desserts. There are also noodle selections, steak choices and pages for deep-fried and vinegared delicacies, along with much more. With the wide variety of dishes comes a wide variety of prices. The set meals, for example, range from 150 baht to 600 baht depending on the items and quantity in each meal. Our own meal started with fish head soup, buri kabutoni, which thankfully did not have fish eyes staring out of it. Instead were large chunks of delicious salmon and yellowtail tuna in a hearty, savory broth with some vegetables. As a first-time experience, it proved to be surprisingly tasty and satisfying. Then came a number of dishes, ordered by our hostess, one of which was unfamiliar. However Chef Ed was present and happy to provide information about the inoki mushrooms that were served us. Imported from Japan, they are long, match­stick thin, and have tops barely bigger than their stems. They are also uniquely delicious, served in a light brown marinade.Some sushi arrived in the form of Mikado and California rolls, the latter identified by the asparagus bud tucked into each one. Both were covered with tiny, orange crab roe that provided a tasty, crunchy addition. The fish was super-fresh, having been purchased that morning at local markets, according to Chef Ed, a practice that occurs every day. The result was delicious. Miso soup had been served earlier in what looked like a miniature teapot and poured into a small saucer-like cup. Our ubiquitous waitress refilled the cup each time it was emptied during the meal, providing a constant supply of tasty broth that freshened the palate continually.  An old favorite appeared when a bowl of prawn tempura was brought to the table. The batter was extremely light and crunchy and managed not to smother the taste of the prawns as some tempuras do. Tempura, Chef Ed explained, is only cooked for about 30 seconds, if done properly, which is the amount of time it takes for the prawn (or whatever  else) to rise to the top of the cooking oil. These must have been done properly because they were tender enough to melt in the mouth. It was a shame that more of the menu couldn't be sampled but there are physical limits that must occasionally be obeyed. However, since relatively few of the 125 menu items were tried on this particular day, it left many more visits available to continue exploring. And, considering the fact that the menu ios so authentically Japanese, any visit to Mikado will not only be tasty but also educational if you’re not already an expert. Also, since 85% of the customers in Mikado are locals, you'll be one of the few out of towners there, a rarity in most quality hotels. A tourists' mecca this is not, which may help to account, at least in part, for the authenticity. Whatever the reason, a visit (or two) to Mikado will provide you with a  was great experience and show you more about the wide diversity of Japanese food at prices that won't make you think you're in Tokyo. Getting the small details right and employing an expert chef have made Mikado a destination worth journeying to more than once.

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Mikado

  • 1. The Mikado Japanese restaurant, located in the Royal Princess Hotel, tries to offer more than what you might expect from your average Japanese dining experience. They succeed because oftheir great attention to detail and the fact that their chef, a Thai, has been preparing Japanese food for 22 years. The simple, traditional interior of the restaurant, white plaster walls with lots of black lacquer trim and pink upholstery, creates a look of stark simplicity that is contrasted by the rich complexity of the menu. Most people think of tempura, sushi, teriyaki and maybe sashimi and yakitori when Japanese food comes to mind. All that is here at Mikado, but also much more. The 18-page menu contains everything from set meals ta ala carte sushi to traditional desserts. There are also noodle selections, steak choices and pages for deep-fried and vinegared delicacies, along with much more. With the wide variety of dishes comes a wide variety of prices. The set meals, for example, range from 150 baht to 600 baht depending on the items and quantity in each meal. Our own meal started with fish head soup, buri kabutoni, which thankfully did not have fish eyes staring out of it. Instead were large chunks of delicious salmon and yellowtail tuna in a hearty, savory broth with some vegetables. As a first-time experience, it proved to be surprisingly tasty and satisfying. Then came a number of dishes, ordered by our hostess, one of which was unfamiliar. However Chef Ed was present and happy to provide information about the inoki mushrooms that were served us. Imported from Japan, they are long, match­stick thin, and have tops barely bigger than their stems. They are also uniquely delicious, served in a light brown marinade.Some sushi arrived in the form of Mikado and California rolls, the latter identified by the asparagus bud tucked into each one. Both were covered with tiny, orange crab roe that provided a tasty, crunchy addition. The fish was super-fresh, having been purchased that morning at local markets, according to Chef Ed, a practice that occurs every day. The result was delicious. Miso soup had been served earlier in what looked like a miniature teapot and poured into a small saucer-like cup. Our ubiquitous waitress refilled the cup each time it was emptied during the meal, providing a constant supply of tasty broth that freshened the palate continually. An old favorite appeared when a bowl of prawn tempura was brought to the table. The batter was extremely light and crunchy and managed not to smother the taste of the prawns as some tempuras do. Tempura, Chef Ed explained, is only cooked for about 30 seconds, if done properly, which is the amount of time it takes for the prawn (or whatever else) to rise to the top of the cooking oil. These must have been done properly because they were tender enough to melt in the mouth. It was a shame that more of the menu couldn't be sampled but there are physical limits that must occasionally be obeyed. However, since relatively few of the 125 menu items were tried on this particular day, it left many more visits available to continue exploring. And, considering the fact that the menu ios so authentically Japanese, any visit to Mikado will not only be tasty but also educational if you’re not already an expert. Also, since 85% of the customers in Mikado are locals, you'll be one of the few out of towners there, a rarity in most quality hotels. A tourists' mecca this is not, which may help to account, at least in part, for the authenticity. Whatever the reason, a visit (or two) to Mikado will provide you with a was great experience and show you more about the wide diversity of Japanese food at prices that won't make you think you're in Tokyo. Getting the small details right and employing an expert chef have made Mikado a destination worth journeying to more than once.