Rodent control used to control home side and out side home controlee of paste by using different biochemical methods
- 1. Rodents prevention and control Rodents (from Latin rodere, "to gnaw") are mammals of the order Rodentia, which are characterized by a single pair of unremittingly growing incisors in each of the upper and lower jaws. About forty percent of all mammal species are rodents; they are found in vast numbers on all continents except Antarctica 1 What rodents are?
- 2. 2 Capybara grazing Eastern chipmunk North American beaver Prairie dog "town" Patagonian maras Caviomorpha: North American porcupine
- 3. Gnaw constantly to create holes and pathways (can cut wood, plastics, hoses, sheetrock, copper, wires, etc.) Are most active during the first two hours after dusk Travel the same paths nightly, staying close to walls, or any items that give them cover. 3
- 4. Characteristics The distinguishing feature of the rodents is their single pair of continuously growing, razor-sharp incisors Rodents generally have well-developed senses of smell, hearing and vision. Nocturnal species often have enlarged eyes and some are sensitive to ultraviolet light. Many species have long, sensitive whiskers or vibrissae for touch or "whisking” 4
- 5. Most rodents are small animals with robust bodies, short limbs and long tails. They use their sharp incisors to gnaw food, excavate burrows and defend themselves. 5
- 6. 6 Rats Will travel up to 450 feet(140m) from their burrow, but prefer to live close to food and water sources Exterior infestations are usually associated with trash In high-rise buildings, rats will infest ceilings if the compactor chute is not kept in clean and in good repair Crawl spaces become infested if food trash collects along the exterior foundation Norway rat burrow
- 7. 7 One day old mouse pups Breed rapidly • A single pair can become an infestation quickly! • Take action when evidence of ONE mouse is seen or heard.
- 8. 8 January December One One pregnant pregnant mouse mouse May September Stopping one mouse does a lot! 650 40 1 One mouse, one year… 4,500 • Life span is 2-3 years
- 9. Signs of rodents Sightings Noise Gnaw marks Nests Rat burrows Droppings Dog or cat alerts Holes and rub marks Indicator pests 9
- 10. 10 Droppings and urine stains Rodent urine stain in drop ceiling Mouse droppings by a power strip
- 11. 11 Holes and rub marks
- 12. 12 Found near grain or bait stored in walls Found near dead animals or trash Indicator Pests Blow Fly Hide Beetle Grain Beetle Indian Meal Moth
- 13. 13 Public Health importance Carry infectious diseases May cause asthma attacks Bite Damage food and property Can attract other pests
- 14. Rat bite: Bites inflicted by rats can cause serious injuries to the victims. Infants, children and adults may be exposed to the risk of rat- bite, 14
- 15. Salmonellosis Rodent(s) involved Rats and mice Agent Bacteria Where the disease occurs Worldwide How the disease spreads Eating or drinking food or water that is contaminated by rat feces 15
- 16. Rat-Bite Fever Rodent(s) involved Rats and possibly mice Agent Bacteria Where the disease occurs Worldwide; Streptobacillus moniliformis in North America and Europe; Spirillum minue in Asia and Africa 16
- 17. Plague Rodent(s) involved Wild rodents, including rock squirrels, prarie dogs, wood rats, fox squirrels and other species of ground squirrels and chipmunks Agent Bacteria Where the disease occurs Western US, South America, Africa, Asia 17
- 18. How the disease plague spreads Bite of an infected flea Direct contact with infected animal Plague symptoms depend on how the patient was exposed to the plague bacteria. Plague can take different clinical forms, but the most common are bubonic, pneumonic and septicemic. 18
- 19. 19
- 20. Lymphocytic Chorio-meningitis (LCM) Rodent(s) involved House mouse (Mus musculus) Agent Virus Where the disease occurs Worldwide 20
- 21. How the disease spreads Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings Direct contact with rodents or their urine and droppings Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequentl 21
- 22. Leptospirosis Rodent(s) involved Rodents and other animals Agent Bacteria Where the disease occurs Worldwide 22
- 23. How the disease spreads Eating food or drinking water contaminated with urine from infected animals Contact through the skin or mucous membranes (such as inside the nose) with water or soil that is contaminated with the urine from infected animals 23
- 24. Hemorrhagic Fever with Renal Syndrome Rodent(s) involved Striped field mouse (Apodemus agrarius), brown or Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus), bank vole (Clethrionomys glareolus), yellow-necked field mouse (Apodemus flavicollis) Agent Virus 24
- 25. 25 Prevention and control: Dumpsters Dumpsters should be – free of holes – covered – placed on cement Screen drain holes Empty dumpsters regularly; they should never overflow
- 26. 26 Eliminate harborage, food, and water especially in any areas that are warm Prevention and control: Sanitation Clutter in a corner
- 27. 27 Prevention and control: Exclusion For a hole, crack, or gap… Stuff it Seal it Check it often
- 28. 28 Prevention and control: Traps Effective and reusable Check often Placement is key Trap bounced away from the wall when it snapped
- 29. 29 Trap placement is key Place the trap against the wall where rodents travel. (The bait side of the trap should touch the wall.) Trap set correctly so it snaps towards the wall
- 30. 30 Sanitation—eliminate food source to eliminate the rodents Exclusion—as important as sanitation Traps—proper placement is critical Rodenticides—last resort and not highly effective without sanitation and exclusion General control methods
- 31. 31 THANK YOU
Editor's Notes
- #6: Because it is a constant battle to exclude rodents, it is best to exclude and trap at the same time. Rats love to burrow, usually outdoors, and prefer to live in secluded areas. If there is plenty of food available, however, they will burrow and nest inside buildings. Rats will travel further than mice for sustenance, but still prefer to stay within 150 feet of their burrow if possible. Unlike mice, rats need to drink water daily. Action should be taken when evidence of even one rat is seen.
- #8: Mice can mate when they are one month old. The gestation period is 19 days. There are 4–7 young per litter, eight litters per year, 30–35 young weaned per female per year….This growth rate is the same as that of cockroaches! This graph assumes six litters of six per year, 50% female in each litter, and all survive. This is not realistic (all will never survive), but it is a vivid picture that one mouse will build a large family very quickly.
- #9: Mice and especially rats, are more difficult to spot in the building than cockroaches. To inspect, trainees must know to look for evidence of their presence. You have already touched on live rodents. With this slide, discuss noise, gnaw marks, nests, and burrows. The next three slides will cover droppings, holes and rub marks, and indicator pests.
- #10: Droppings are the most distinctive evidence of rodents. This photo shows mouse droppings next to a power strip on a desk. Pointed feces usually indicates a rodent. Mouse feces are about the size of fat ice cream sprinkles; rat droppings are larger—about the size of olive pits. The urine often smells.
- #11: Rodents are active mostly at night and do not have fantastic eyesight. They get around by feeling with their whiskers and keeping the sides of their bodies in contact with a wall. They memorize paths. Note the rub marks along the wall in the lower picture. Have trainees guess what kind of rodent made these marks. Answer is a roof rat: up high. Suggestion: If students need a stretch break, have them navigate the room like a rodent…trying to keep their shoulders in contact with a wall at all times.
- #12: Other pests might help to identify a rodent infestation. Rodent bait is made of high-quality grains (so the rodents will eat it) and if it is left in walls, grain pests will live off of it. Insects don’t have blood, so the anticoagulants in rodent bait that make rodents bleed internally do not harm insects. Shiny blue or green flies are evidence of old trash or dead animals (they lay their eggs in the rotting stuff). Hairy beetle larvae (hide beetles) feed on dried carcasses or dead insects. Indian Meal Moths are a common pest of stored products. Either there is infested grain in the cupboards or the moth larvae are feeding from the grain that mice have brought into their nests. Other beetles will also feed on stored grain, but must be properly identified to be useful indictors.
- #13: Rats and mice carry various infectious diseases, including Salmonella and Lymphocytic Choriomeningitis (LCMV) a serious disease for pregnant women. Mice leave little drops of urine wherever they go. Mouse urine can trigger asthma attacks in sensitive people. Rats may bite people when threatened. Babies are especially at risk since the rat may be in the crib with them, feeding on spilled milk. Both rats and mice instinctively gnaw on things. This is damaging to property and can be dangerous if gnawing results in wires sparking and starting a fire.
- #25: The dumpster on the left needs to be switched for one without rust. The dumpster pictured on the right should be further from the building, covered, on a concrete pad at least 30' away from the building, and larger so that it doesn't overflow (or it should be emptied more often).
- #26: Proper housekeeping (inside and out) is essential to rodent control. The piles pictured are perfect harborage—that is, hiding space—for mice. And the cardboard boxes could also be harborage for cockroaches who love the spaces created by the edge of the boxes, and the paper and glue, which they can eat. These kinds of mess should be cleaned out. Get rid of cardboard and neatly store other items on shelving at least 6" off the floor and preferably 6'' away from walls. 6'' is not high enough to keep mice (much less rats!) from climbing up, but it does make inspection and trapping possible. Broken compactor chutes and machines in basements are prone to rodent infestations. A door sweep on exterior doors may prevent rodent entry and subsequent infestation. Reference: Preventing Rats on Your Property, pp 4–6.
- #27: Stuffing holes with copper mesh discourages rodents from gnawing through repairs and is essential for gaps caulk could not bridge. (Stainless steel may also be used, but avoid regular “steel wool," which will rust and deteriorate over time). Then seal over the mesh with caulk, putty, or spackle to deter rodents and cockroaches. The photo on the right shows a completed repair. Reference Preventing Rats on Your Property pages 7–10.
- #28: Traps come in several forms, demonstrate traps and pass them around. Snap traps. Cheap, easy, and effective. The newer style is much easier to set, clean, and empty the rodent. These traps work like binder clips. Glue traps. Cheap and easy, but the rodent takes a long time to die and makes noises that can be disturbing to residents. Adult mice and rats will usually avoid glue traps. They can be made more effective by using box-style traps or putting the glue board inside short sections of PVC pipe; mice prefer tunnels and dark areas, and will not detect the glue boards until they cannot get away. Curiosity traps. Can be very effective. They come in many styles, but you must check them often and may be left with a live animal that needs to die. Electronic traps. Expensive. Electrocutes a mouse with a small electrical charge. One can dump out the mouse without touching it. Live traps are available but not recommended. What does one do with the mouse once it is caught? Or an angry rat? Ultrasonic devices. Have not been shown to be effective. Baits could be: fabric, dental floss, food…rodent populations will have preferences for the food that is normally available to them (e.g. rats next to a restaurant that throws away a lot of chicken will prefer chicken). Reference: Preventing Rats on Your Property, pp 11–12.
- #29: Always place snap traps against walls, ideally in corners, or in known runways. Traps may be doubled up, and the more traps used the more effective they will be. The reason for this placement is twofold: Rodents are likely to travel the same paths along walls every night. Setting traps where they already travel increases the chance of one running over the trap. Rodents get a lot of information from their hairs and have a very fast response time. If a trap is along a wall, the wall blocks them from reacting to the trap closing by running out to the side.