Stats Data and Models 3rd Edition Richard D. De Veaux
Stats Data and Models 3rd Edition Richard D. De Veaux
Stats Data and Models 3rd Edition Richard D. De Veaux
Stats Data and Models 3rd Edition Richard D. De Veaux
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5. Stats Data and Models 3rd Edition Richard D. De Veaux
Digital Instant Download
Author(s): Richard D. De Veaux, Paul Velleman, David E. Bock
ISBN(s): 9780321692559, 0321692551
Edition: 3
File Details: PDF, 50.72 MB
Language: english
9. EDITION
3
Richard D. De Veaux
Williams College
Paul F. Velleman
Cornell University
David E. Bock
Cornell University
Stats
Data and Models
Addison-Wesley
Boston Columbus Indianapolis New York San Francisco Upper Saddle River
Amsterdam Cape Town Dubai London Madrid Milan Munich Paris Montréal Toronto
Delhi Mexico City São Paulo Sydney Hong Kong Seoul Singapore Taipei Tokyo
11. To Sylvia, who has helped me in more ways than she’ll ever know,
and to Nicholas, Scyrine, Frederick, and Alexandra,
who make me so proud in everything that they are and do
—Dick
To my sons, David and Zev, from whom I’ve learned so much,
and to my wife, Sue, for taking a chance on me
—Paul
To Greg and Becca, great fun as kids and great friends as adults,
and especially to my wife and best friend, Joanna, for her
understanding, encouragement, and love
—Dave
12. Meet the Authors
Richard D. De Veaux is an internationally known educator and consultant. He has taught at the
Wharton School and the Princeton University School of Engineering, where he won a “Lifetime Award for
Dedication and Excellence in Teaching.” Since 1994, he has been Professor of Statistics at Williams College.
Dick has won both the Wilcoxon and Shewell awards from the American Society for Quality. He is a fellow
of the American Statistical Association. Dick is also well known in industry, where for the past 20 years he
has consulted for such companies as Hewlett-Packard, Alcoa, DuPont, Pillsbury, General Electric, and
Chemical Bank. He has also sometimes been called the “Official Statistician for the Grateful Dead.” His real-
world experiences and anecdotes illustrate many of this book’s chapters.
Dick holds degrees from Princeton University in Civil Engineering (B.S.E.) and Mathematics (A.B.) and
from Stanford University in Dance Education (M.A.) and Statistics (Ph.D.), where he studied with Persi
Diaconis. His research focuses on the analysis of large data sets and data mining in science and industry.
In his spare time he is an avid cyclist and swimmer. He also is the founder and bass for the “Diminished
Faculty,” an a cappella Doo-Wop quartet at Williams College. Dick is the father of four children.
Paul F. Velleman has an international reputation for innovative Statistics education. He is the author
and designer of the multimedia statistics CD-ROM ActivStats, for which he was awarded the EDUCOM
Medal for innovative uses of computers in teaching Statistics, and the ICTCM Award for Innovation in
Using Technology in College Mathematics. He also developed the award-winning statistics program, Data
Desk, and the Internet site Data And Story Library (DASL) (http://dasl.datadesk.com), which provides
data sets for teaching Statistics. Paul’s understanding of using and teaching with technology informs much
of this book’s approach.
Paul has taught Statistics at Cornell University since 1975. He holds an A.B. from Dartmouth College in
Mathematics and Social Science, and M.S. and Ph.D. degrees in Statistics from Princeton University, where
he studied with John Tukey. His research often deals with statistical graphics and data analysis methods.
Paul co-authored (with David Hoaglin) ABCs of Exploratory Data Analysis. Paul is a Fellow of the American
Statistical Association and of the American Association for the Advancement of Science.
Outside of class, Paul sings baritone in a barbershop quartet. He is the father of two boys.
David E. Bock taught mathematics at Ithaca High School for 35 years. He has taught Statistics at Ithaca
High School, Tompkins-Cortland Community College, Ithaca College, and Cornell University. Dave has
won numerous teaching awards, including the MAA’s Edyth May Sliffe Award for Distinguished High
School Mathematics Teaching (twice), Cornell University’s Outstanding Educator Award (three times), and
has been a finalist for New York State Teacher of the Year.
Dave holds degrees from the University at Albany in Mathematics (B.A.) and Statistics/Education
(M.S.). Dave has been a reader and table leader for the AP Statistics exam, serves as a Statistics consultant
to the College Board, and leads workshops and institutes for AP Statistics teachers. He has recently served
as K-12 Education and Outreach Coordinator and as a senior lecturer for the Mathematics Department at
Cornell University. His understanding of how students learn informs much of this book’s approach.
Dave relaxes by biking and hiking. He and his wife have enjoyed many days camping across Canada
and through the Rockies. They have a son, a daughter, and three grandchildren.
13. vii
PART
I
PART
II
PART
III
PART
IV
Preface ix
Index of Applications xix
Exploring and Understanding Data
Chapter 1 Stats Starts Here 1
Chapter 2 Data 6
Chapter 3 Displaying and Describing Categorical Data 18
Chapter 4 Displaying and Summarizing Quantitative Data 44
Chapter 5 Understanding and Comparing Distributions 80
Chapter 6 The Standard Deviation as a Ruler and
the Normal Model 109
Review of Part I Exploring and Understanding Data 141
Exploring Relationships between
Variables
Chapter 7 Scatterplots, Association, and Correlation 150
Chapter 8 Linear Regression 178
Chapter 9 Regression Wisdom 213
Chapter 10 Re-expressing Data: Get It Straight! 237
Review of Part II Exploring Relationships between Variables 257
Gathering Data
Chapter 11 Understanding Randomness 267
Chapter 12 Sample Surveys 281
Chapter 13 Experiments and Observational Studies 305
Review of Part III Gathering Data 330
Randomness and Probability
Chapter 14 From Randomness to Probability 336
Chapter 15 Probability Rules! 355
Chapter 16 Random Variables 381
Chapter 17 Probability Models 404
Review of Part IV Randomness and Probability 425
Contents
14. viii C O NTE NTS
From the Data at Hand to the World
at Large
Chapter 18 Sampling Distribution Models 431
Chapter 19 Confidence Intervals for Proportions 457
Chapter 20 Testing Hypotheses about Proportions 477
Chapter 21 More about Tests and Intervals 499
Chapter 22 Comparing Two Proportions 525
Review of Part V From the Data at Hand to the World
at Large 544
Learning about the World
Chapter 23 Inferences about Means 550
Chapter 24 Comparing Means 580
Chapter 25 Paired Samples and Blocks 611
Chapter 26 Comparing Counts 633
Review of Part VI Learning about the World 664
Inference When Variables Are Related
Chapter 27 Inferences for Regression 673
Chapter 28 Analysis of Variance 713
Chapter 29 Multifactor Analysis of Variance 750
Chapter 30 Multiple Regression 784
Chapter 31 Multiple Regression Wisdom 813
Review of Part VII Inference When Variables Are Related 849
Appendixes
A Answers A-1
B Photo Acknowledgments A-47
C Index A-49
D Tables A-63
PART
V
PART
VI
PART
VII
16. All interior floors, such as floors of cellar, barns and stables
require no contraction joints. They are made by laying a solid
continuous sheet of concrete. All outside floors should have
contraction joints forming slabs not over 6 feet square. These are
provided the same as in sidewalks. A feeding floor is formed merely
by sidewalk pavements set side by side. Instead of using a template
for crowning the surface, use a straight edge, each end resting on
the extreme outside forms to give a slope to the feeding floor.
Contraction joints for exterior floors are formed in the same way as
for sidewalks. The concrete is also placed in alternate slabs and
finished in the same way as sidewalks. When completed the walk or
floor must be continuously protected from the rays of the sun and
from the wind for at least three days, so that it will not dry out at
any time. This can be easily done by covering the concrete when it is
hard with hay, straw, or old carpet. This covering should be
thoroughly soaked with water, and kept wet for three or four days or
longer if economy will permit.
17. While the walk or floor is hardening it should be so protected as
to prevent persons or animals from disfiguring the surface by
walking on it.
18. A Foundation Gutter and Walk
Foundation gutters catch the water from off the rain-beaten side
of the building, quickly carry it away, and, by preventing “seepage,”
keep the cellar, basement, or ground-floor dry. In sloppy, muddy
weather, they also serve as convenient walks around the out-
buildings.
Determine the grading or sloping of the gutter bottom from
observation of direction of the flow of surface water during rain
storms, or from local conditions, such as location of outlet into
underground drain. Excavate a trench 1 foot 6 inches in width, 10
inches deep on each side, and hollowed out to 13 inches deep in the
middle. Use a straight edge or a grade cord, together with a spirit
level, to give the bottom of the trench the desired slope or “fall.” For
each foot of length a slope of one-eighth inch will be sufficient.
Clean the dirt off the foundation wall with a stiff broom or brush.
19. In the bottom of the trench place a 6-inch foundation of
well-“tamped” gravel, brickbats or crushed stone.
Make a one-bag batch of concrete in proportions, 1: 2½: 5. Have
the mixture just wet enough to tamp well.
Place a 4-inch thickness of concrete to form a dish-shaped gutter
3 inches deep in the middle. Every five feet, make an expansion joint
⅛ of an inch wide by inserting a metal strip not less than 7 inches
wide and 18 inches long, or by cutting a joint entirely through the
concrete with a straight spade. Smooth the surface with a wooden
float.
20. Materials Required
One cubic yard crushed rock or screened gravel;
½ cubic yard sand;
6 bags of Portland cement, for a 50-foot section.
21. Repairs to Farm Buildings
Since wood always fails first at the ground, the use of concrete
on the farm has developed from the ground up. After a farmer has
had to replace several sills or blocks of wood, he begins to look
about him for a new material which will not rot or will not have to be
replaced. Concrete is his natural selection.
Support the building by temporary struts, alongside of the post to
be removed. Saw off post entirely above rotten part. Dig a hole
directly under the post 2 feet deep, and slightly larger than the post
itself. Build a box with sides only, with the same inside measurement
as the hole already dug. The box must be long enough to reach from
the ground to a few inches above the bottom of post.
22. Fill hole with concrete, mixed
1: 2: 4. Then place the box in
position, and fill it with concrete
until the bottom of the sawed-
off post is embedded about ½
an inch in the mixture. Leave
the forms in place for one week
and after two weeks remove the
struts which have been used as
temporary support for the
building. The concrete should be
mixed fairly wet, and churned
with a stick while being placed.
The bottom of the
foundation may be made larger
than the top, by simply sloping one side of the box form—giving the
effect shown in the photograph.
Why Concrete Should be Used to Repair Farm
Buildings
Repairs to foundations of this kind vary greatly in size and shape.
Concrete is the only material which can be used for any purpose,
whether large or small, without first having to be cut to the shape
and size desired. Consequently there is no cheaper known material
for this kind of work.
23. Replacing an Entire Foundation with Concrete
The work can be done by the farmer, with the help of his own
farm labor, at times when more important work is not claiming his
attention.
Foundations of concrete are indestructible.
At necessary points, remove a few stones or bricks, as the case
may be, inserting short pieces of heavy timber to wedge or jack up
the building. Carefully raise the building, by this means, until it
stands free of all foundations. Remove all the old stone or brick
foundation to be replaced, and set in place the forms for the
concrete.
Small buildings can usually be raised high enough to allow
working room, whereby the form may be filled right up to the top
24. with concrete. The mixture should be a wet one. (Proportions, 1: 2:
4.)
Where buildings are too cumbersome to be raised by “jacking,” to
a sufficient height to give head-room, it will be found necessary to
make the foundations 3 inches wider than the sill. Carry the forms to
the desired height and utilize this extra 3 inches of width for placing
the concrete in the forms. The top board of the forms may also be
left off until you are ready to place the last of the concrete. In this
case the last batch of the concrete should be very wet. Tamp the
concrete until it comes up flush with the bottom of the sill, to the
entire width of the wall.
Be sure to leave a space in the concrete wall, under and on the
sides of the underpinning support, so that the building may later be
lowered back onto the new foundation and the timber removed. This
opening must be slightly larger than the underpinning support. After
the building has been lowered fill these openings with concrete.
Lower the building after the foundation has been in two weeks.
25. A Concrete Entrance Floor
At a point 3 feet from the
building, dig a trench 6 inches
wide and 18 inches deep—the
length of this trench to be 2 feet
greater than the width of the
doorway of the building. From
the edge of the trench nearest
to the building, dig away the
earth between trench and
building to a depth of 1 foot,
and place here, to a depth of 6
inches, a fill of either coarse gravel or crushed rock. Do not,
however, place any of this gravel fill in the trench. Mix concrete 1:
26. 2½: 5, and lay same, first in the trench, and then on top of the
gravel fill; sloping the surface so that it just meets the floor level at
the doorway. Before the concrete has had time to set, provide a
runway slot for the sliding doors—or better, build little guides or
humps with the concrete, to hold the doors in position. If the doors
happen to be swinging ones, place a gas pipe or iron socket in the
soft concrete, for a “shove-fastener.”
Note the concrete curb on the right of entrance door. This
prevents the gravel that surrounds the building from washing down
onto the approach and getting in the way of the doors. To build this
curb, use 1-inch planks placed on top of the concrete floor, to serve
as forms to hold concrete in place.
Materials Required
One cubic yard of crushed stone or screened gravel;
2½ cubic yards of sand;
5 bags of Portland cement.
This entrance floor was constructed in half a day, by one man.
28. Farm Buildings Should be
Connected by a Concrete Driveway
By using concrete to connect up buildings, this farmer has a
solid, substantial roadway that will last for all time—instead of the
usual muddy, untidy space that ordinarily separates such buildings.
To construct a driveway between the various buildings of a farm,
first excavate a trench 12 inches deep, this trench being the exact
width that you wish the finished driveway to be. Six feet is a
convenient width; but the drive should be made slightly wider than
this at the corners to provide for turning of vehicles.
Place in the trench a fill of gravel to a depth of 6 inches and tamp
it well. On top of the gravel fill, place your concrete mixture, to a
depth of 6 inches on the sides, and 7 inches at the center.
For this work, concrete should be mixed in proportions 1: 2½: 5,
and wet enough to pack well.
29. To finish, no mortar is needed. Leave the surface rough, so as to
afford a better footing for the horses and cattle.
Materials Required
5 bags of Portland cement
make a section of roadway 6
by 10 feet
½ cubic yard of sand
1 cubic yard of crushed stone or
screened gravel
Approximate cost, at current prices of materials, 6 cents per
square foot of surface.
30. Alleyways Between Buildings
The farmer of to-day plans for comfort and convenience. About
the home, mud is the greatest of all nuisances. In the spring and
winter, the driveways from the public road and the alleyways
between buildings become so muddy that they are often impassable.
As a result the grassy lawns and lots are driven over, cut to pieces,
and the general appearance of the farm is ruined. Moreover, in bad
weather the chores cannot be done unless the “hands” wear rubber
boots. The women and children are unable to get out to gather the
eggs and to see after the poultry. Muddy feet track up the house
walks and floors.
Alleyways between buildings are built of concrete similar to
driveways with this exception—they are made dish-shaped to the
same extent that the driveway is crowned. This carries the roof
water away from the buildings instead of letting it soak in around
the foundation walls.
32. Carriage Washing Floors
Nothing will take the sticky mud off the wheels and body of a rig
except water. People have at times tried to remove this mud by
scraping, but have found that after the mud has once dried a large
amount of the varnish comes off with it and the “looks” of the
carriage is ruined.
Convenience in washing means that the wagon is pulled just
outside of the barn and quite near the pump or other source of
water supply. All of the carriages are washed in exactly this same
spot, and, as this is done day after day the washing place very
shortly becomes nothing more nor less than a mud hole. To avoid
this a concrete floor should be built.
This floor should be of the size to take not only the wheels of the
rig but the shafts or tongue as well. Unlike feeding and other floors,
this floor is built with a slope toward the center, with a catch basin
under the middle, from which a drain leads. Thus all of the water,
together with the mud coming off the wagon, flows into the basin.
This basin should be protected with a grating, with holes in same
not less than ¼ of an inch. This grating should be removable so that
the mud, which is bound to flow into the basin, can be removed. A
pipe less than 6 inches should not be used to connect this basin up
with a sewer or ditch outlet. This will prevent the stoppage of the
drain for many years. A slope from the edges of the floor to the
drain of ⅛ of an inch to the foot should be made. To lay the floor
proceed exactly as described in “Sidewalks,” and, as the floor is
exposed to the weather, contraction joints must be provided, as in
Feeding Floors.
After the floor is finished and while the concrete is yet soft, make
grooves in it, running from the basin to the edges of the floor. This
can be done by taking a V-shaped strip of wood and driving it into
33. the concrete at regular intervals by means of a tamper. This strip of
wood should be thoroughly greased so that it may be removed
without having the concrete stick to its surface.
34. Feeding Floors and Barnyard
Pavements
The saving principle of feeding floors has long been recognized
by successful breeders and feeders of live stock. The trouble,
heretofore, has been to obtain an entirely satisfactory material for
floor construction.
Disadvantages of Wooden Floors
Wooden floors kept the feed out of the mud and dust and not
only saved every particle of grain but also prevented wheezing
coughs and otherwise temporarily improved the health of the animal.
However, in a short time, the best wooden floors rotted out and
became infected with disease germs. Often floors had to be burned
to free the farm of hog cholera.
Advantages of Concrete
In concrete the farmer and ranchman have found an ideal floor
material. Such floors not only effect a saving in feed, a shortening in
the time of fattening and a decrease in labor, but also afford perfect
protection to the health of the animal. Concrete floors do not soak
up water and therefore cannot become infected with disease germs.
Their surfaces can be easily cleaned and thoroughly disinfected with
oils and dips. Rats cannot nest under them. Careful tests have
shown that concrete floors, through the saving of grain and manure
alone, pay for themselves in the short period of one year.
How to Build Feeding Floors
35. Feeding floors are merely several sidewalks laid side by side, and
the same general rules of construction (given under Sidewalks,page
28) apply to them. Choose a site in the lot where the ground is
slightly sloping, well drained and wind protected, and convenient to
feed and water.
Drainage Foundation
Excavate to a depth of 12 inches for the drainage foundation,
and around the outside edges of the entire floor dig a trench 12
inches wide and 18 inches deep. (This trench, filled with concrete,
prevents hog wallows from undermining the floor and keeps the rats
from nesting under it.) Fill all of this space (except the trench) to the
natural ground level with well tamped coarse gravel, crushed rock,
tile culls or brickbats. This fill forms the drainage foundation as
described for sidewalks.
Grading the Floor
The floor must be graded or sloped so that water will not collect
on it in the winter and so that the manure washings may be caught
by the gutters and run to the water-tight concrete manure pit. (To
shape the gutter, make a mold or template by rounding the corners
on the flat side of a 6-foot length of a 4 by 6-inch timber.) A gentle
slope, toward the low corner, of ¼ of an inch for each foot of length
or width is sufficient. This is secured by the use of a heavy grade
stake at each corner of the floor, a straight edge or a grade line, and
a spirit level.
It is an advantage to have a feeding floor its full thickness above
ground. Make light floors 4 inches and floors subject to heavy loads
6 inches thick. For the forms use 2-inch lumber of a width equal to
the floor thickness. Begin on a low side of the floor. Mark the grade
height on each corner stake and set the forms to a grade cord
36. stretched from stake to stake. Use only good materials and mix the
concrete 1: 2½: 5 according to direction on page 15.
Placing the Concrete
Always begin placing the concrete on the low side of the floor, so
that the rain from sudden showers will not run from the hard onto
the newly placed concrete. Fill the trench and the slab section of the
forms with concrete. Bring the surface to grade by drawing over it a
straight edge with its ends on the opposite forms or with one end on
the form and the other on the finished concrete. Four inches in from
the edge, on each of the low sides, temporarily embed the rounded
4 by 6-inch gutter mold and tamp it down until its square top is even
with the surface of the slab section of the floor. Remove the mold,
finish with a wooden float and cure the floor as described on pages
31-34. Connect the gutters with the manure pit by means of a
trough, another gutter, or by large drain tile laid underground.
On the next page is given an itemized bill of materials necessary
for a 6-inch floor 24 by 36 feet, amply large to accommodate 50
hogs.
Materials Required
Crushed rock or screened gravel, 20 cubic yards @ $1.10 $22.00
Sand, 10 cubic yards @ $1.00 10.00
Portland cement, 28 barrels @ $2.50 70.00
37. Materials Required
$102.00
Mixing the concrete by hand, 5 men can usually finish this floor
in two days. Depending upon the price of labor and materials and
the thickness of the concrete, the floor will cost 6 to 12 cents for
each square foot of surface.
38. Manure Pits and Cisterns
For restoring the fertility of the fields, there is nothing better than
barnyard manure. By the ordinary methods of piling it on the ground
or storing it in wooden pens, from 30 to 50 per cent. of the manure’s
strength is wasted. This loss is brought about in two ways:
First—By “leaching” or washing out, due to heavy rains.
Second—By heating or “firing,” caused by lack of sufficient
moisture.
Since concrete pits are waterproof, manure can be kept in them
as moist as necessary. Moreover, with concrete pits the supply of
manure is increased, as all the liquid manure, from the gutters of the
barns, barnyard pavements and feeding floors, is saved.
How to Build
Locate the manure pit handy to the barn and so as to catch the
manure from the outside floors. Two pits may be better than one.
Excavate the hole to the desired size and depth. (Manure pits are
seldom over 4 feet deep.) Dig a sump hole 3 feet square and 2 feet
deep at one corner of the pit. Slope the floor toward this hole, from
which a pump will draw the liquid manure. Frame forms of 1-inch
siding on 2 by 4-inch studding spaced 2 feet, so as to mold a wall 8
inches thick. If the dirt sides stand firm, they will serve for the
outside form and nothing but an inside form will be required. Mix the
concrete 1: 2: 4 (see page 11). Lay the floor so that it will be one
solid piece 6 inches thick. No contraction joints will be necessary.
Without delay, set up the forms, brace them firmly and fill them with
concrete as directed under Dipping Vats, pages 76-80. If a very large
pit is needed, build it with sloping concrete ends sufficiently wide to
39. accommodate a manure spreader. Let the inclines be gentle, and, to
give the horses a firm footing, embed iron cleats every 18 inches in
the slopes, the same as for dipping tanks. Cisterns for liquid manure
only, may be made like ordinary Cisterns, page 68. However, the
solid manure rots more quickly and is better for the fields if both
solids and liquids are kept in the same pit. An ordinary pump, with a
pipe leading to the sump hole, covered with a grating, is a
convenient means of removing the liquid. Liquid manure is especially
good for the vegetable and flower garden, since it contains no weed
seed. Cover the pits or keep the manure well soaked with water, so
as to remove the principal breeding places of the house and barn fly.
The manure pit shown in the photograph is located in the side of
a little hill. It is 21 feet long, 14 feet wide, 10 feet deep on the
hillside and 6 feet deep on the low side. The bottom is 6 inches and
the walls 8 inches thick. Four men built the pit in two days.
Materials Required
Screened gravel or crushed rock 17 cubic yards at $1.10 $18.70
40. Materials Required
Sand 8½ cubic yards at $1.00 8.50
Portland cement 30 barrels at $2.50 75.00
$102.20
The Value of Manure Pits
Rotten manure not only enriches the ground, but also increases
the water-holding capacity of the soil. One load of well rotted
manure from a concrete pit is worth two loads of manure as
ordinarily stored.
41. Concrete Barnyards
The advantages of concrete feeding floors so appealed to the
farmers who first built them that they enlarged the floors until their
entire barnyards were surfaced with concrete.
It is no uncommon sight in the spring and winter to see an
earthen barn lot so deep with mud that animals go thirsty rather
than attempt a trip to the water trough.
The effect is bad on all kinds of livestock, especially on fattening
animals and dairy cattle. “Feeders” must have an abundance of
water to fatten quickly. Insufficient water cuts down the quantity of
milk given by dairy cows. Lack of enough exercise further decreases
the yield. An occasional trip through this mud to the trough, so
cakes the cows’ udders with dirt that the milker wastes valuable time
in washing them—and they must be washed, if one would have
clean, wholesome milk. Continual tracking through the mud not only
makes more currying, but often produces that irritation on horses’
legs known as “scratches.” Suddenly frozen, such an earthen lot is so
rough that it is impassable. Moreover, the old barnyard—with its
surface worked up year after year—becomes a storage place, which
carries over the disease germs from one season to another. The
“droppings” are entirely lost, and, mixed with the earth, tend to
make the lot muddier the following year. To keep up the fertility of
the soil, all the manure produced on a farm should be saved and
returned to the fields.
Concrete Floors Increase Profits
A concrete barnyard makes a fine exercise lot in all kinds of
weather and always affords a dry spot for the animal’s bed. Every
shower washes the surface clean and flushes the droppings into the
42. manure pits. Concrete yards lighten the work of the housewife, as
there is no mud to be tracked on the walks and kitchen floor. The
use of rubber boots is unnecessary. On concrete floors not a particle
of grain need be wasted. The way to the water trough is always dry,
smooth and passable. Concrete floors promote and protect the
health of farm animals and increase the profits of farming, stock
raising and dairying.
Construction
The construction of concrete barnyards is exactly like that of
Feeding Floors, page 43, except that the work is on a larger scale.
Often the entire lot is not paved in one season, but from year to
year as the farmer has time. In excavating for the drainage
foundation (see Sidewalks, page 29), be careful to remove all manure
and straw which may be tramped into the ground and which may be
so solid as to resemble earth. In time any kind of manure decays,
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