Sweden 4 Getting Started
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This document provides an overview and introduction to travel in Sweden. Some key points: - Sweden has a distinct culture and atmosphere that can feel strangely foreign despite its appearance. The landscape, literature, and films often feature Gothic or lonely themes. - It is an easy country to travel within, with major cities well connected by public transportation. Summer is the most popular time to visit due to weather and longer days, though winter activities are also possible. - Costs vary significantly depending on accommodations and activities, but with planning like hostels, cooking own meals, and discount cards, average daily costs can be kept around 1000 SEK in summer. Sweden has a high standard of living overall.
Sweden 4 Getting Started
- 1. © Lonely Planet Publications 15 Destination Sweden There’s something almost otherworldly about Sweden – and we mean that in the most flattering way possible. It’s just a bit skewed, a bit removed from the norm, and one gets the sense that Sweden likes being that way. For travellers, too, it’s a delight to visit somewhere that, while it may not look terribly outlandish, still feels distinctly and wonderfully foreign. This sense of strangeness is partly a result of Sweden’s out-there position on the map. But there’s more at work than geographical isolation. Sweden’s FAST FACTS literature and cinema favour a weighty, Gothic sense of drama blended Population: 9.1 million with gallows humor and stark aesthetics – all of which, in some form, GDP (2007 estimate): at some point, will confront the visitor. For instance, it’s hard not to see US$300.2 billion; per something faintly hilarious, yet also quite lonely and sad, in the image of a capita US$41,100 single reindeer wandering crookedly along an all-but-abandoned Lappland Inflation: 0.9% highway in the murk of a winter afternoon. There’s also something poign- ant about a capital city that’s so far from the middle of anything, yet is so Unemployment: 2.5% determined to be the centre of everything. Regardless of how it presents Labour force (2008 itself, the visitor will notice a particular tone in Sweden that hints at many estimate): 4.4 million things: depth of feeling, awareness of doom, absence of sentimentality, Literacy rate: 99% strength of principle, avoidance of conflict, a somber conviction that cer- tain things simply matter. Of course, such intangibles won’t likely make it into your post-trip slide show, but nevertheless the mysterious Swedish sensibility enhances every aspect of a traveller’s experience. It’s an exciting time to visit Sweden, too – the small country with its long history of consistent moderation just happens to be in the middle of a whirlwind of change. Swedish music, fashion, film, art and food couldn’t be more vibrant, and it’s even shaking things up in the often rather stolid world of politics. Don’t miss the chance to get in while it’s hot.
- 2. © Lonely Planet Publications 16 Getting Started Travel in Sweden is extremely easy, and a bit of advance planning can help smooth over any rough patches. Historically an expensive place to travel, it’s now more or less in line with the UK in terms of cost. Still, booking ahead for accommodation and transport within the country will help save money, and look into discount travel cards for the major cities before you leave (see p322). Once you arrive, you will find the cities easy to get around and well serviced by public transport, with almost everywhere wheelchair-accessible. WHEN TO GO Despite its north European location, Sweden isn’t as cold as you might expect. The south has a year-round temperate climate and summer can be quite See Climate Charts (p320) warm in the north. Sweden is at its best during summer and autumn (late for more information. May to September), but hikers and campers may wish to avoid the peak of the mosquito season (June and July). Due to the country’s high latitude, daylight hours are long in summer. Malmö gets 17½ hours of daylight at midsummer, and Sundsvall has constant light during the second half of June, but you have to travel north of the Arctic Circle to experience the true ‘midnight sun’: in Kiruna, the sun remains above the horizon for 45 days (31 May to 14 July). Swedes are big on holidays, and even Stockholm shuts down for two or three days around Christmas and Midsummer, so plan accordingly. Most Swedes take their holidays from late June to mid-August, so hostels are crowded, but this is also when most hotels offer discounts of up to 50%. Loners and misanthropes should travel between seasons, in May or early June, when everything is closed and no one’s about. Travel in winter is somewhat restricted and requires some planning as well as serious winter clothing, but there are good opportunities for activities like skiing, dogsledding and snowmobiling. The big cities are in full swing all HOW MUCH? year, but the smaller towns almost go into hibernation when the temperatures 0.7L bottle of Swedish begin to drop. The notable exceptions are the popular ski resort towns like brännvin (vodka) Skr225 Åre and Jukkasjärvi (home to the Ice Hotel). Coffee and saffron pancake Skr45 COSTS & MONEY Sweden has a very good standard of living, which means the travel experi- Souvenir Dalahäst ence is generally high quality but doesn’t come cheap. Careful planning can (wooden horse) help reduce costs. Skr70-3000 During the low-price summer period (June to August), if you stay in a mid- Cinema ticket Skr90 range hotel (which usually includes a huge buffet breakfast), eat a daily special for lunch and have an evening meal at a moderately priced restaurant, you can Nightclub admission expect to spend Skr1000 per person per day if you’re doubling up, and Skr1500 Skr150 if you’re travelling alone. Staying in hostels, making your own breakfast, eating the daily special for lunch, and picking up supermarket items for dinner will probably cost you Skr450 per day. The cheapest way to visit Sweden is to camp in the woods for free, eat supermarket food, hitchhike or cycle to get around, and visit only the attractions that have free admission – this will cost less than Skr200 per day, depending on your supermarket choices. If you stay in com- mercial camping grounds and prepare your own meals you can squeak by on around Skr300 per person per day. If there are a few of you, sharing car rental for a weekend in order to see some out-of-the-way places is worth considering (some petrol stations offer small cars for as little as Skr300 per day). Self-service pumps that take banknotes or credit cards are slightly cheaper, though many won’t accept foreign credit cards without a PIN code.
- 3. lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l l i n g R e s p o n s i b l y 17 DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… Your ID, passport and visa (if applicable) Industrial-strength mosquito repellent in summer Good walking shoes Layers of warm clothing, just in case A swimsuit – again, just in case Sunglasses – when the sun does shine, it’s bright A map of Stockholm’s tunnelbana (metro) A taste for pickled fish A fast-acting liver for snaps (Swedish liquor) TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY Sweden makes it easy to be a responsible traveller: recycling, for example, is practically effortless, as bins and sorting instructions are everywhere, from inside hotel rooms to near highway rest stops. There’s a high level of general environmental consciousness in the country. Two organisations that set standards for labelling products as ecologically sound are the food- focused KRAV (www.krav.se), a member of the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements, and Swan (www.svanen.nu), which has a wider scope and certifies entire hotels and hostels. Aside from environmental concerns, one of Sweden’s biggest challenges is protecting the cultural heritage of the Sami people. The two issues are closely linked: the harnessing of rivers for hydroelectric power can have massive (negative) impact on what has historically been Sami territory, whether by flooding reindeer feeding grounds or by diverting water and drying up river valleys. In general, the mining, forestry and space industries have wreaked havoc on Sami homelands. Travellers interested in learning more and experienc- ing Sami culture are encouraged to look for the ‘Naturens Bäst’ logo, which indicates that an excursion or organisation has been approved by Svenska Ekoturismföreningen (www.ekoturism.org, in Swedish), the country’s first ecotourism regulating body. TRAVEL LITERATURE Good books on travelling or living in Sweden are few and far between. Mary Wollstonecraft’s A Short Residence in Sweden, Norway and Denmark records the pioneering feminist author’s journey to Scandinavia in 1795 in search of happiness. It’s a classic of early English Romanticism and well worth a read. The always hilarious Bill Bryson had an entertainingly difficult time of it in Sweden, as described in two chapters of his European travel book Neither Here Nor There. There are also a couple of good views of Sweden from within, includ- ing Selma Lagerlöf’s The Wonderful Adventures of Nils. This creative account of the country’s history and geography is still taught in Swedish classrooms. Get a taste of a thematic journey in the remotest parts of northern Sweden in Torgny Lindgren’s wonderful novel Hash. Two odd characters set off on a motorcycle in search of the perfect, life-altering pot of hash (pölsan), a sort of potted-meat dish traditionally prepared in the rural north.
- 4. © Lonely Planet Publications 18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com TOP 10 MUST-READ BOOKS BY SWEDISH AUTHORS One of the best ways to get inside the collective mind of a country is to read its top authors. Following is a selection of some of the greatest and most popular works by Swedish authors. The Long Ships (1954) by Frans Gunnar The Emigrants series (1949–59) by Wilhelm Bengtsson Moberg The Wonderful Adventures of Nils (1906–07) Faceless Killers (1989) by Henning Mankell by Selma Lagerlöf Marking (1963–64) by Dag Hammarskjöld Pippi Longstocking (1945) by Astrid Röda Rummet (1879) by August Strindberg Lindgren Merab’s Beauty (1982) by Torgny The Evil (1981) by Jan Guillou Lindgren Hash (2004) by Torgny Lindgren FEEL-BAD FILMS The Swedish film industry is active and varied (see p41), but most people associate it with the godfather of gloom, Ingmar Bergman. Many filmmakers have followed in his grim footsteps, including these: Songs from the Second Floor (2000), Roy Darling (2007), Johan Kling – harsh Andersson – a post-apocalyptic urban economic realities bring together a nightmare in surreal slow motion; it’s not shallow, privileged party girl and a sweet for everyone. old man in an unlikely friendship. Lilya 4-ever (2002), Lukas Moodysson – a Let the Right One In (2008), Tomas grim tale of human trafficking. Alfredson – an excellent, stylish, restrained Ondskan (Evil; 2003), Mikael Håfström – take on the horror-film genre that gets at violence at a boys’ boarding school. what it’s like to be a lonely preteen in a cold, hostile world. Zozo (2005), Josef Fares – a Lebanese orphan makes his way to Sweden alone, then has culture shock. INTERNET RESOURCES Many Swedish towns and organisations have websites in both Swedish and English (although the English pages are often less detailed). Hotels, restau- rants and museums throughout the country can also frequently be found online. The following websites are useful for pre-planning: An introduction to the Sami people (www.itv.se/boreale/samieng.htm) A good place to start learning about the indigenous people of northern Sweden and the issues they face, including racism and habitat destruction. Smorgasbord (www.sverigeturism.se/smorgasbord/index.html) A comprehensive website devoted to Swedish culture, industry, history, sports, tourism, environment and more, produced by the nonprofit FÖRST Föreningen Sverigeturism (Swedish Tourism Trade Association). Sweden.se (www.sweden.se) All kinds of useful information about the country, in a variety of languages. Swedish Film Institute (www.sfi.se) Loads of information on Swedish films and their signifi- cance within and outside the country. Swedish Institute (www.si.se) The Swedish Institute publishes the best academic information on Sweden in English and offers scholarships for study in Sweden. Visit Sweden (www.visitsweden.com) The official website for tourism in Sweden.
- 5. © Lonely Planet Publications 19 Events Calendar Swedes love their holidays. Most towns and cities APRIL have frequent summer festivals and concerts (usu- VALBORGSMÄSSOAFTON ally May to September). Books on festivals include (WALPURGIS NIGHT) 30 Apr Monica Rabe’s Sweden (Festivals of the World) and This public holiday, a pagan holdover that’s Jan-Öjvind Swahn’s Maypoles, Crayfish and Lucia – partly to celebrate the arrival of spring, involves Swedish Holidays and Traditions. Visit www.musik lighting huge bonfires, singing songs and form- festivaler.se for many more music festivals. Towns ing parades; parties are biggest in the student hosting large rock concerts include Sundsvall, towns. Östersund and Skellefteå; see town websites for details. For a list of public holidays, see p323. MAY JANUARY FÖRSTA MAJ (MAY DAY) 1 May KIRUNA SNOW FESTIVAL last week of Jan Traditionally a workers’ marching day in indus- Based around a snow-sculpting competition, trial towns and cities, it’s observed with labour- this annual fest (www.kiruna.com/snowfestival) movement events, brass bands and marches. began in 1985 to celebrate a rocket launch and now draws artists from all over to carve ever- more elaborate and beautiful shapes out of the JUNE snow. It also features reindeer-sled racing, with SWEDEN ROCK FESTIVAL early Jun Sami traditions also emphasised. This large annual three-day summer rock festi- val is held in Sölvesborg (www.swedenrock.com) and features huge metal and hard-rock bands FEBRUARY like AC/DC, In Flames and Dragonforce, with JOKKMOKK WINTER camping available on site. MARKET 1st Thu-Sat in Feb A large annual gathering of Sami people from SWEDISH NATIONAL DAY 6 Jun across Scandinavia, this festival (www.jokkmokks Known merely as Swedish Flag Day until 1983, marknad.se) includes a market, meetings, craft this public holiday commemorates the crowning shows, performances and more. in 1523 of King Gustav Vasa and Sweden’s inde- pendence from the Danish-led Kalmar Union. HOUSE OF METAL early Feb An annual hardcore music festival (www.house SMAKA PÅ STOCKHOLM 1st week of Jun ofmetal.se, in Swedish) in Umeå at Folkets Hus, Taste samples from some of Stockholm’s top House of Metal features big-name artists as well kitchens in manageable quantities, and watch as local bands. cooking duels at this week-long annual fest in Kungsträdgården (www.smakapastockholm.se). MARCH MIDSUMMER’S EVE & MIDSUMMER VASALOPPET 1st Sun in Mar DAY 1st Fri-Sat after 21 Jun This huge annual ski race (www.vasaloppet.se) Arguably the most important Swedish holiday, between Sälen and Mora, started in 1922, com- Midsummer starts on Friday afternoon/evening memorates Gustav Vasa’s history-making flight with the raising of the maypole, followed by on skis in 1521; it has grown into a week-long lots of singing and dancing, drinking and the ski fest and celebration with several different massive consumption of pickled herring with races: short, gruelling or just for fun. potatoes and sour cream.
- 6. 20 EVENTS CALENDAR •• Jun-Sep lonelyplanet.com HULTSFRED FESTIVAL mid-Jun STORSJÖYRAN late Jul-early Aug This is a large annual three-day summer rock Östersjön hosts this annual three-day music festival (www.rockparty.se) at Hultsfred, a small festival (www.storsjoyran.se), which features inter- southeastern village reachable by train from national artists and crowds of up to 55,000 people. Stockholm-Arlanda Airport. Artists have included Regina Spektor, Dropkick Murphys and Timbuktu. AUGUST MEDIEVAL WEEK, VISBY early Aug ÖJEBY CHURCH MARKET last weekend in Jun Find yourself an actual knight in shining armour at This market near Piteå attracts some 20,000 visi- this immensely popular annual fest (www.medel tors each year. tidsveckan.se), which puts Gotland’s medieval city to great use with a market, games, costumes and JULY a huge banquet. PITEÅ DANSAR & LER late Jul One of Sweden’s biggest street festivals (www DALHALLA early Aug .pdol.se), the PDOR draws 120,000 visitors for The stunning Dalhalla venue in Rättvik hosts an music, dance, crafts, food and a carnival. opera festival (www.dalhalla.se), with the awe- some acoustics of the venue allowing for mostly STOCKHOLM JAZZ FESTIVAL 19-23 Jul unamplified performances. Held on the island of Skeppsholmen, this interna- tionally known jazz fest (www.stockholmjazz.com) STOCKHOLM PRIDE 1st week in Aug brings artists from all over, including big names This annual parade and festival (www.stockholm like Van Morrison and Mary J Blige; evening jam pride.org/en/) is dedicated to creating an atmos- sessions at famed Stockholm jazz club Fasching phere of freedom and support for gay, lesbian, are a highlight. bisexual and transgender people. MUSIC VID SILJAN early Jul WAY OUT WEST mid-Aug A midsummer music festival (www.musikvidsiljan Göteborg hosts this music fest (www.wayoutwest .se), it takes place in the towns around Lake Siljan, .se) that features the likes of Broder Daniel, Sigur and includes chamber, jazz and folk music; local Rós, Grinderman and Franz Ferdinand. tourist offices will have up-to-date schedules. TJEJMILEN 31 Aug ARVIKA FESTIVALS mid-Jul Sweden’s biggest sporting event for women This large annual three-day summer rock festival (www.tjejmilen.se) features 24,000 runners of (www.arvikafestivalen.se, in Swedish) is held in all ages in a race that begins from Gärdet in western Värmland near Glafsfjorden, and features Stockholm. mostly Scandinavian rock bands. KRÄFTSKIVOR FALUN FOLKMUSIK FESTIVAL mid-Jul (CRAYFISH PARTIES) late Aug Falun has a popular folk and world-music festival Swedes celebrate the end of summer by wearing (www.falufolk.com), but funding has been trou- bibs and party hats while eating lots of crayfish blesome in recent years and the festival’s future is and drinking snaps (usually aquavit). In the north uncertain; check online for the latest news. similar parties take place but with surströmming (strong-smelling fermented Baltic herring), while RÄTTVIK FOLKLORE FESTIVAL late Jul in the south similar gatherings in September feast An annual celebration of international folk dance on eels and snaps. (www.folklore.se) on the shores of Lake Siljan. SEPTEMBER CLASSIC CAR WEEK late Jul-early Aug GÖTEBORG INTERNATIONAL Rättvik hosts this gathering of motorheads and BOOK FAIR late Sep the objects of their devotion (www.classiccar Scandinavia’s biggest book fair, this event (www week.com, in Swedish); there are monster truck .bok-bibliotek.se) brings together authors, read- battles, drive-in movies, laid-back cruising and ers, publishers, agents, teachers, librarians and lots of chrome. the media.
- 7. © Lonely Planet Publications lonelyplanet.com E V E N T S C A L E N D A R • • S e p - D e c 21 ÖLAND’S HARVEST UMEÅ INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL late Sep JAZZ FESTIVAL late Oct This celebration of the local harvest (www.skor International jazz musicians have filled Umeå’s defest.nu) takes place each autumn in Borgholm, stages for this annual event (www.umeajazzfes Öland. tival.se) 40 years running. LIDINGÖLOPPET late Sep NOVEMBER Enshrined in the Guinness World Records as the STOCKHOLM INTERNATIONAL FILM world’s largest terrain race, this annual event FESTIVAL mid-late Nov (www.lidingoloppet.se) takes place on Lidingö, Screenings of new international and independent just northeast of Stockholm. films, director talks and discussion panels draw cinephiles to this important annual festival (www OCTOBER .stockholmfilmfestival.se); tickets go quickly, so STOCKHOLM OPEN early Oct book early if you’re interested. A huge event among the international tennis crowd, this annual tournament (www.ifstockholm STOCKHOLM INTERNATIONAL open.se) draws its share of top-100 male players HORSE SHOW late Nov from all over the world. This annual horse show (www.stockholmhorse show.com) advertises itself as the largest indoor HOME: INTERIOR equestrian event in the world. It takes place in DESIGN FAIR early Oct the Globe in southern Stockholm. ‘Hem’ in Swedish, this is the country’s largest in- terior decor and design fair, drawing more than DECEMBER 60,000 visitors eager to check out new furniture LUCIADAGEN (ST LUCIA DAY) 13 Dec trends, textiles, lighting schemes, and arts and Wearing a crown of lit candles, Lucia leads a crafts. The event (www.hemmassan.se), held in white-clad choir in traditional singing in a celebra- Stockholm, includes displays, lectures and of course tion that seems to merge the folk tradition of the shopping. longest night and the story of St Lucia of Syracuse. UPPSALA SHORT FILM FESTIVAL late Oct JULAFTON (CHRISTMAS EVE) 24 Dec Approaching its 30th anniversary, this annual film The night of the smörgåsbord and the arrival festival (www.shortfilmfestival.com) screens more of jultomten, the Christmas gnome, carrying a than 300 short films at four cinemas in central sack of gifts, this is the biggest celebration at Uppsala. Christmas time.
- 8. © Lonely Planet Publications 22 Itineraries CLASSIC ROUTES AROUND THE CAPITAL & BEYOND One Week / Start & End in Stockholm Start in Stockholm (p67), where mandatory attractions include the Kungliga Slottet (p74), Gamla Stan (p74) and Skansen (p78). You can cover those in a couple of days, which leaves an evening for enjoying some of the capital city’s nightlife in Södermalm (p81) – try the clubs around Medborgarplatsen, and bars in the SoFo district. On day three, take a boat tour to the ancient settlement on Birka (p117); it’s an all-day affair. The next day, check out the spectacular cathedral and palace at Uppsala (p242) and delve into early Swedish history via the burial mounds and museum at Gamla Uppsala (p244). Spend the rest of the day exploring the adorable village of Sigtuna (p123), with its old-fashioned buildings, cute cafes and atmospheric church ruins. If you fancy a drive, head over to Göteborg (p206) and explore the Bohuslän Coast (p224) for the last couple of days. Alternatively, you could stay put and sample further from the cultural smörgåsbord that is Stockholm. This trip takes you through some of Sweden’s most accessible high- Arctic Ci lights in and rcle around the capital city. NORWEGIAN SEA GULF OF BOTHNIA Gamla Uppsala Uppsala Sigtuna Birka STOCKHOLM Bohuslän Coast Göteborg BALTIC SEA
- 9. lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes 23 THE MIDDLE WAY Two Weeks / Stockholm to Göteborg Spend the first week as outlined above, exploring the sights around Stockholm (p67). Then head north toward Lake Siljan (p268) to take in the surrounding villages, which are famous for being postcard-pretty and steeped in history. Don’t miss the family home of noted Swedish painter Anders Zorn in Mora (p272), the town where the world’s biggest cross-country ski race, Vasaloppet (p19), ends. Tour a copper mine in Falun, home of the World Heritage–listed Falu Kopparbergsgruva (p266). Stop at Örebro (p258) to see the fine castle and to wander through one of Sweden’s most beautiful parks before continuing down through the heart of Sweden to Göteborg (p206). Spend a day or two in Sweden’s engaging second city, making sure you visit its theme park and take time to enjoy the city’s hip cafes and bars, as well as its eclectic museums. Spend the rest of your trip exploring the craggy coastline and picturesque fishing villages of the Bohuslän Coast (p224). This journey cuts a swath through the belly of the beast, touching on two of Arctic Circle the country’s best cities and taking in some archetypal NORWEGIAN SEA Swedish villages. GULF OF BOTHNIA Lake Mora Siljan Gävle Falun Uppsala Sigtuna Örebro STOCKHOLM Birka Bohuslän Coast Göteborg BALTIC SEA
- 10. 24 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com TIP TO TAIL One Month / Kiruna to Malmö This trip is takes you from the northernmost city in Sweden to just shy of Denmark in the south. Fly in to Kiruna (p306), stopping to check out the Ice Hotel if the season is right. Take the train toward Narvik and stop at Abisko National Park (p309), a hiker’s paradise. Spend a day or so exploring the wilder- ness, either along the Kungsleden (p60) or via any of the shorter nearby trails in the area. Expert hikers may opt instead to spend their mountaineering time in the more challenging Sarek National Park (p313). From here, head to Gällivare (p311) and catch the historic Inlandsbanan railway to Jokkmokk (p312), home of the world’s best museum of Sami culture, the Ájtte (p312). Continue on the railway through some of the most spectacular scenery in the country, stop- ping, if your schedule allows, at Sorsele (p314), Storuman (p316) and Östersund (p290). From here, rent a car and cruise over to explore the breathtaking scenery of Höga Kusten (High Coast; p287). Continue southward toward Lake Siljan (p268) and the surrounding villages. Stop to see the pre-Viking burial mounds Gamla Uppsala (p244) with a detour to stroll Sweden’s oldest main street in cute Sigtuna (p123) on your way to Stockholm (p67). The wonderful capital city will hold your attention for as many days as you can devote to it. When it’s time to move on, head towards dynamic Göteborg (p206), and Kalmar (p144) with its fantastic Renaissance-era castle. Visit the island town of Karlskrona (p199), which is on the Unesco World Heritage List. Stop and take a deep breath in the beautiful Österlen area (p189). Wrap things up by exploring the vibrant southern towns of Lund (p179) and Malmö (p170), from where it’s a cinch to cross the Öresund bridge (p171) into Copenhagen. There’s a lot of territory to cover in Sweden, but in Abisko Kiruna a full month you Arctic C ircle Gällivare Sarek can see most of its National Park Jokkmokk highlights by following this top- NORWEGIAN SEA Sorsele to-bottom route. Storuman Östersund Höga Kusten GULF OF BOTHNIA Lake Siljan Gävle Gamla Uppsala Uppsala Sigtuna STOCKHOLM Göteborg Kalmar BALTIC SEA Lund Karlskrona Malmö Österlen
- 11. lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d 25 ROADS LESS TRAVELLED REINDEER GAMES Five to Seven Days / Luleå to Luleå From Luleå (p302), cruise up to the historic military outpost of Boden (p303). Continue heading northwards and cross the Arctic Circle around Jokkmokk (p312), which is a Sami cultural centre and home to the excellent Ájtte Museum (p312). If the weather’s in your favour, branch off to Kvikkjokk (p312), next- door neighbour to the rugged Sarek National Park (p313). Then push on toward Gällivare (p311) and up to Kiruna (p306). Sweden’s northernmost city is worth some exploring on its own, but it also has a charming neighbour in Jukkasjärvi (see boxed text, p308), home to the famous Ice Hotel. From here, you could dash over to Abisko National Park (p309) for some spectacular and easily acces- sible hiking, or go straight north to the remote village of Karesuando (p306), on the Finnish border. Make your way along the Sweden-Finland border toward Pajala (p305), keeping an eye out for stray Rudolphs – for entertainment, keep a log of the number of reindeer you have to follow at casual trotting speed along a major highway. Stop in Haparanda (p305) for some serious shopping, then follow the curve of the coastline back to Luleå. Dodge herds Karesuando Abisko of reindeer on this Kiruna Jukkasjärvi journey, where Sarek Arctic Circle National Pajala Gällivare the domesticated Park Kvikkjokk Jokkmokk critters outnumber Boden Haparanda cars on NORWEGIAN Luleå SEA the highway. GULF OF BOTHNIA BALTIC SEA
- 12. 26 I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d lonelyplanet.com VICIOUS CYCLING One to Two Weeks / Visby to Visby This journey starts directly behind the ferry station in Visby, where you can rent a bicycle and camping equipment from various outlets. Once you’ve sorted your equipment, head north along the waterfront to catch Gotlandsleden, the bicycle trail that circumnavigates the island. Follow it to the grotto at Lummelunda (p166), then continue northward past Stenkyrka and around to the inlet at Kappelshamn. From here it’s an easy morning’s ride to Fårösund, where you can stock up on picnic items and catch the free ferry to the islet of Fårö (p166), home of Ingmar Bergman. There’s a tourist informa- tion centre in Fårö town, near another grocery store and cafe. Take your time circling the islet, stopping at the gravesite of British troops who fought in the Crimean war at Ryssnäs (p166) and at any of the beaches or harbours that strike your fancy. Your goal is to reach Langhammarshammaren (p166) in time to watch the sunset over the eerie rock formations. Afterwards, head back to Fårösund and follow the Gotlandsleden signs southward, stopping for a peek at Bungemuseet (p165). At Slite you can choose to stick to the coastline or head inland through the Kallgateburgs Nature Reserve; the coastal route is lined with pretty beaches, while the inland option passes through pastoral countryside. (The less ambitious can easily loop back to Visby and wrap up their tour at this point.) The paths converge further south to follow along the coast – don’t miss the detour to the Bronze Age cairns at Uggarderojr (p167) – and go through Öja (p167), where there’s a fine church. Then loop around to return through Burgsvik (p167). Around Sandön you’ll have fine views of Lilla Karlsö and Stora Karlsö (p164). Continue along the bike path northward until you’re back in Visby (p158). Make sure you leave time at the end of your trip to enjoy the beautiful medieval city itself. Cycling the STOCKHOLM Gotlandsleden is an ideal way to see the best of this idyllic island, from Nynäshamn sandy beaches to medieval churches. BALTIC SEA Langhammarshammaren Fårö Ryssnäs Fårösund Lummelunda Slite Visby Kallgateburgs Nature Reserve Gotland Östersjön Lilla Oskarshamn Karlsö Sandhamn Stora Karlsö Uggarderojr Öja Burgsvik Öland
- 13. © Lonely Planet Publications lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 27 TAILORED TRIPS WORLD HERITAGE SITES Culture hounds might enjoy a quest to see the best of Sweden as defined by Unesco. To start there’s the vast Laponia area (p312) in the north, an entire jour- ney’s worth of territory on its own. Working your way down, there’s Gammelstad church village (p302) in Luleå. Höga Kusten (High Coast; p287) decorates the coast- line from Härnosand to Örnsköldsvik. In Falun there’s the Falu Kopparbergsgruva (p266), and the nearby picnic-friendly Engelsberg Bruk (p257). In the suburbs of Stockholm you’ll find the royal palace and grounds of Drottningholm (p115), plus the unlikely beauty of the Skogskyrkogården cemetery (p85). Also near the capital is the ancient Viking settlement of Birka (p117). Moving south, there’s Tanumshede rock carvings (p224) and the well- preserved naval port of Karlskrona (p199). Off the Luleå coast are the Hanseatic town of Visby (p158) on Laponia Gotland and the agricultural landscape of southern Öland (p157). There’s also the historic Varberg Radio Höga Kusten Station (p238) in Grimeton. Falun ACTIVITIES Stockholm Birka Outdoorsy types are spoilt for choice in Sweden. Tanumshede There’s excellent hiking and camping many of Visby the country’s national parks, especially Abisko Varberg Southern Öland (p309), as well as the more challenging territory Radio Karlskrona Station of Sarek National Park (p313), and the intermedi- ate Padjelantaleden (p62) and Skuleskogen (p288). Closer to Stockholm is the very accessible wilderness of Tyresta (p123). Cycling is another popular activity, and Sweden is well set up for it. The best areas are found in Skåne (p170) and Gotland (p158); see the cycle tour of Gotlandsleden (opposite) for one suggestion. For diving, rock climbing and caving, head south to Kullaberg Nature Reserve (p197). Wintertime brings another batch of activities to the sporting crowd, most notably alpine skiing in resorts such as Åre (p293), Sälen (p274), Hemavan (p315) and Riksgränsen (p310). Cross-country skiing is popular along the hiking trail Kungsleden (p60) and other long-distance tracks. Ice skating is a popular activity for kids and adults alike, and it’s easy to do on the frozen winter surfaces of Kung- strädgården (p86) and other public areas in Björkliden Stockholm. Riksgränsen Abisko National Park Golf is huge in Sweden – there are more than Kungsleden Sarek National Park 400 courses to choose from. The most popular Padjelanta Green Line Course options are in the south, but the quirkier choices Hemavan are up north, including Björkliden (p310), near Abisko – home to the country’s northernmost Åre Skuleskogen National Park course, 240km above the Arctic Circle – and the Green Line Golf Course (p305) at Haparanda, where Sälen Kungsträdgården playing a round means repeatedly crossing the Stockholm Sweden–Finland border. Tyresta National Park Both canoeing and kayaking are popular in a Gotland number of rivers and the canals that honeycomb Kullaberg Nature Reserve Stockholm (p85). Skåne
- 14. © Lonely Planet Publications THE AUTHORS 352 The Authors BECKY OHLSEN Coordinating Author, Central Sweden, Northern Sweden, Lappland & the Far North Becky grew up with a thick book of Swedish fairy tales illustrated by John Bauer, so the deep, black forests of Norrland hold a particular fascination for her. When hiking through them, she’s constantly on the lookout for tomtes and changelings, green-haired witches and moss-covered trolls (which, to the untrained eye, look just like enormous rocks). Though raised in Colorado, Becky has been a frequent explorer of Sweden since childhood, while visiting her grandparents in Stockholm and her great-aunt in Härnösand. She loves the music of the Swedish language, although she can’t really dance to it. She loves herring and gravlax, Swedish potatoes and aquavit. But mostly she loves getting lost in those forests, among the trolls and tomtes. CRISTIAN BONETTO Stockholm, Southeast Sweden, Southern Sweden, Southwest Sweden Considering his soft spot for blondes, it’s not surprising that Cristian Bonetto calls Sweden his ‘Nordic nirvana’. Despite his many returns, the crush is yet to mellow; nor is his fondness for glögg and Swedish pop. Born and bred in Australia, the reformed TV-soap scribe is smitten with Sweden’s sense of space, its enlightened attitudes and its fascination with the new. Cristian‘s musings on Sweden have appeared in both Australian and UK magazines and he is also the author of Stockholm Encounter. When he’s not scouring Nordic streets for the next big thing, you might find Cristian in his home town of Melbourne, listening to his first ever album, ABBA’s Arrival. Cristian also wrote the Culture and Food & Drink chapters in this guide. LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you’re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
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