Tools used for measurement.pdf
- 1. Tools used for Measurement & Cutting
- 7. Measuring Devices • Measuring tools are the most essential things in making a pattern. • The key to success in garment construction lies in taking accurate measurements of the subject and by using the appropriate tool for pattern making. Measuring tape: It is indispensable for taking body measurements. • It is 152 cm or 60″ long with measurements on both sides. • Its one end is made of metal having 3″ length and the other is made of the same metal having 1/2″ length. • The side with the 1/2″ length is used for measuring a circular area, while the side with 3″ length is used for a vertical area.
- 8. CPG measuring tape: • This is used for taking measurements for a coat. • Three measurements, that is, chest, shoulder and depth of side can be taken at a time. • Apart from these, shoulder and under shoulder measurements can be recorded with this tape. • With the help of this scale one can take more than one measurement at one placement.
- 10. Leg measuring tape: • It is a tape used for measuring the inner part of the leg. • It is made of wood in the shape of a crescent and a measuring tape is fixed at the centre of the circle. • The circle is entrapped with the leg to measure the inner portion of the leg by tape.
- 12. Measuring stand: • This stand is used to measure long garments such as long overcoats, frocks or gowns, as well as flare of the garment. • In this stand, a rod of aluminum is fitted on the stand. • The rod has a graduated scale, which gives the vertical measurement.
- 14. Ruler: • It is the best device for taking long straight measurements. • It is mostly used for checking grain lines and marking hems.
- 15. Drafting Devices • Drafting equipment is used for making paper patterns. • This is the second stage of pattern making. • Using the measurements taken, the drafting is carried out according to the design of a garment. The following drafting equipment is used: 1.L-scale: • It is also called a triscale or L-scale and is made of wood or steel. • L-scale has one arm, which measures 12″ and the other is 24″.
- 16. • Basically used for drafting on brown paper to draw perpendicular lines. • L – scale is one of the basic of the pattern drafting rulers. • This ruler helps to draw accurate 90° angles and straight edges. It measures, rules, and squares jointly.
- 18. 2. Leg shaper • It is made of wood or plastic. Either or 24″ or 36″ lengths are available. • It’s used to measure and shape the interior part of the leg.
- 19. 3. Tailor’s art curve or Vary Form Curve: • Tailor’s art curve is used to draw curves in the drafting and is made of plastic or wood. • For blending and shaping armholes and neck.
- 20. 4.Curve Ruler • To shape hip,hem,elbows.
- 21. 5. French curve • French curve is made of transparent plastic. • It helps in marking shapes of the neck, depth of sides and garments bottom. • Essential tool for perfect shaping armholes, necklines, and collars.
- 24. • Drafting table and Cutting Table: • It’s a wooden table of 3ʹ height, 4ʹ wide and 6ʹ long. • The dimensions of the table top should be approximately 120 by 75(48 by 30”) • The surface of table should be smooth and firm. • So that garments of any measure can be cut easily. • For drafting purpose use the same table after spreading a felted cloth over it.
- 25. • Brown paper: • Paper is used for drafting by placing on the drafting table. • While using brown paper, a grain line should be tracked. • Mechanical Pencil • Pencil is used to marking on brown paper. Ideal for pattern work. • Lead is easily Sharpened. • Use 2-H for drawing and 4-H for pattern work. • Use red and blue and washable tip pens in black, green and blue. These are used for marking on fold (red line) and grain line (blue arrow).
- 26. • Rubber • Good quality rubber, which does not leave black lines, should be used. • Awl • A handy tool and often neglected, the awl will pierce a small hole in your pattern to indicate the end of a dart, pocket and button hole placement and locations on Pattern. • The awl is also handy for scoring paper to fold, and also “walking” your measuring tape around curves for accurate measuring.
- 28. • Notcher • To show balance marks on a pattern. • The pattern notcher will create flawless pattern markings. • For example, dart legs, seam allowance, center lines, ease, and to identify front from back patterns.
- 30. • Tracing wheel • Pointed and very sharp tracing wheel transfers marking onto a clean sheet of paper. • For transferring muslin pattern to paper and other uses. • Tool is often used when retracing patterns or when transfer draped muslin onto paper.
- 32. MarkingDevices: Marking devices are used for transferring the details of the paper draft to the fabric. • Tailor’s chalk: • It is made of Wax or clay and is available in different colours. • Black, White and yellow used for marking fabric. • It is used for marking the paper patterns on the cloth. • Alterations and construction markings are drawn using tailors’ chalk.
- 33. • Chalk in pencil form: • This is used like a pencil and is ideal for marking thin accurate lines. • This is used for marking pleats, darts and buttonholes. • Tracing wheel: • It is used for transferring the pattern markings on fabrics. • But for sheer fabrics and loosely woven fabrics, the tracing wheel should be used with care; otherwise, the fabric may get damaged.
- 34. • Dressmaker’s carbon paper: • Carbon papers are mostly used for transferring patterns. • In embroidery, they use for tracing designs. • They are available in several colour’s including white.
- 35. • Cutting Devices: • Cutting devices/equipment should be selected and used with maximum accuracy. • A slight change in cut results in huge fitting problems. • These tools must be selected and maintained properly in order to use them effectively. • Cutting table and cutting board: • A cutting table is 6ʹ long, 4ʹ wide and 3ʹ height. People working in a standing position use the table and people who work sitting use a cutting board. A cutting board should be 6″ height.
- 36. • Shears: • These are typically utilised for cutting thick materials and usually 10–15″ in length. • Scissors: • These are used for cutting ladies’ and children’s garments. They are 7–10″ in length. • Paper cutting scissors: • These are small scissors available in various sizes and meant for cutting paper.
- 37. Pinking shears: • This cuts the edges in a zigzag manner. • It is used for finishing seams and raw edges. • It gives a decorative appeal to the raw edges while at the same time avoids unravelling of yarns. • Trimming scissors: These are used for carrying out alterations, trimming seams, repairs and cutting thread while sewing. • Buttonhole scissors: These are used for making holes for buttons and eyelet holes in garments.
- 40. • Finishing or Pressing Devices: The following equipment are needed for pressing: • Iron: A good brand with after sale services should be chosen. A steam iron with a thermostat regulator is preferred. • Ironing board: For ironing clothes, a table or ironing board can be used. An ironing board is 36″ long and 12″ wide. Six inches are left on its right side to keep the iron box. The left side of the board is angular and is suitable for ironing dart edges and sleeve darts while stitching. The table or ironing board should have proper stuffed backing. • Sleeve board: It is in the shape of a sleeve. This board is 30″ long and 3/4″ thick.
- 41. • General Tools: Often, a few more tools and equipment may be required other than the above-mentioned items, in making the pattern and constructing the garment. These can be termed miscellaneous tools. • Sponge: While pressing, a sponge is used to wet the fabric pieces to smooth the surfaces. • Water container: A container with water, which will accommodate the sponge, should be selected. While ironing, water is sprinkled to remove wrinkles. • Damp cloth: If a steam iron is not available, a damp cloth can be used. Any rectangular absorbable cloth can be chosen for this purpose. • Hole maker: It is a sharp-edged instrument with a handle. This is used to make buttonholes. • Orange stick: This is a long tool with a pointed edge. This is inserted into the collars or seams to get pointed edges.