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tuck in The Gentleman’s Guide
March2015
Game of Suits

Flavorful Affordable Whisky
Pitti Immagine Uomo
Individualising the Suit
Glossary of Men’s Style
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March2015

Whiskey is a staple for most men’s liquor cabinets. It’s the foundation that plenty of good parties are built upon. There’s only one
problem with that though: Whiskey can be expensive. Quite expensive. Especially if you want one you’re not going to need to drown
with half a litre of soda.
Whiskey is a bit like the world of watches. It can get very high end, very fast, while the still very worthwhile/yet more affordable
options can get unfairly left in the dust. Arise. Arise from the dust worthy whiskeys! Here we celebrate some of the best bang for the
buck bottles worthy of your booze collection. Cheers!
5 Flavorful Affordable Whiskys
Treat Your Guests
Sazerac Rye
Sazerac is a Rye Whiskey with a lot of history. It comes from the early 1800’s when
New Orleans coffee shops sold a little more than espresso. And, at $25 a bottle, it’s a
steal. Its crisp spicy taste, with a slight hint of licorice, makes it lovely to drink neat.
Tasting note
Nose: Sweet, balanced with allspice and ginger, orange peels and pepper.
Palate: Thick and mouthwatering with syrupy notes of over ripe Seville oranges and
ground spices, beautiful delivery
Finish: Medium-length with tingling sweet spices.
Blanton’s Bourbon
Blanton’s doesn’t come with a lot of history. But, what it loses in history it makes up in
awards. It also comes in a bottle that’ll garner more than a few “what’s that?” questions
from guests. It starts with a full taste of sugars, caramels and citrus, before finishing with
a warm glow of honey and vanilla. Full but accessible.
Tasting note
Nose: Very deep and satisfying
Palate: Caramel is upfront with a rich spice riding shotgun. Citrus zest, cinnamon, hint
of vanilla and a mild oak fill in the backseats and this buggy is rolling.
Finish: Corn, caramel, malt and wood combine and fade on a shockingly short finish.
Glenlivet 12
The Speyside region of Scotland is home to over 50% of their Malt Whiskey Distilleries.
And, in a region of Whiskey Royalty, The Glenlivet reigns king. This 12-year-old Single
Malt is made with the crispest, cleanest water from the river Livet. A river so obscure
that their unofficial slogan has become, “If you find us, you’re lost”. Found on the shelf
at most bars that aren’t dives, it packs a flavorful punch: biscuit, malt and toffee with an
oak-barrelled finish. It all comes together to create a medium bodied taste that appeals to
even the most ardent Scotch Drinker.
Tasting note
Nose: Remarkably flowery, clean & soft
Palate: Flowery, peachy, notes of vanilla, delicate balance between sweetness & malty
dryness
Finish: Long, gently warming
Chivas Regal
The general view of Whiskey is this: the more available it is, the worse the quality.
That’s why you’re not going to read about Jim Beam on this list. However, that stereo-
type shouldn’t be held against Chivas Regal. Another 12 year old on the list, their Blend-
ed Scotch Whiskey can hold it’s own. It has a true Scottish taste – blending citrus notes
with peat, smoke and heather – whilst offering a sweet taste that isn’t overpowering.
Inoffensive, dry and easy to drink. The perfect party Whiskey you can pick up for much
less than its competitors.
Tasting note
Nose: An aromatic infusion of wild herbs, heather, honey and orchard fruits.
Palate: Rich and fruity, bursts with the smooth taste of ripe, honeyed apples, and notes
of vanilla, hazelnut and butterscotch.
Finish: Generous, lingering finish.
Glenkinchie 12 Year Old
The Whiskeys of Lowland Scotland have always been known for their light textures
and flavors. And, the Glenkinchie 12 epitomizes all the best points that the lowlands has
to offer. Made in one of only three distilleries left in the area, Glenkinchie use the East
Lothian barley to create a light, fruity taste mixed with floral notes and honey.
Tasting note
Nose: Light, yet fragrant
Palate: Fruity with notes of Madeira and sweet stewed fruits, hint of calvados and tan-
nic oak lining the mouth.
Finish: Medium length with notes of cereal and a fresh greenness.
4 5

I don’t really
sell clothes,
I sell a way
of living.
Armi Ratia

8 9
Pitti Immagine
The company’s origins date back
totheearly1950sandthefirstfashionshows
staged in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti,
Florence. The next step was the creation of
the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana
(1954), which has grown into the holding
company of a highly diversified group –
that includes Pitti Immagine – that works
to support the Italian fashion system. The
runway shows in the Sala Bianca marked
the beginning of the international success
of Made in Italy and the first chapter in
the history of Pitti Immagine. Through the
fairs and events it stages Pitti Immagine
has added a new dimension to “destination
Florence”, in addition to its artistic and
cultural heritage, the city is a fulcrum for
today’s style and savoir vivre. And the life-
style concept prompted Pitti Immagine to
expand its scope to other fields: wine and
food, fragrances and personal wellness.

The Pitti Immagine events
are centered in the Fortezza da Bas-
so, a Renaissance era military complex
that comprises structures built from the
eighteenth century to the present; and
facilities outside the fortress walls: the
former customs house – Dogana on Via
Valfonda, the nineteenth century Villa
Vittoria and the late twentieth century
Palazzo degli Affari.
The Stazione Leopolda, the city’s
first railroad station is now the venue Pitti
Immagine uses to stage events and exhibi-
tions dedicated to the various languages of
contemporary living, art and culture. Over
the years Pitti Immagine has built up an im-
portant historical archive. Part has already
been digitized and it can be accessed – on
request – by scholars, members of the trades
and students. It is an invaluable resource on
the development of Italian fashion from the
‘fifties to the present.

10 11
Sandwiched snugly between London
Collections: Men and Milan Fashion Week
is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trade show in
Florence by the name of Pitti Uomo. On
first glance, it might appear like a large
global convention for bearded and suited
gentlemen to stroll around the city’s pic-
turesque piazza, getting their street style
photograph taken. However, on closer
inspection, Pitti is widely recognised as
the leading menswear trade show, show-
casing some of the world’s most exciting
emerging and established talents.
The Power of Pitti
Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo 87
Pitti’s influence on the industry seems
to grow stronger from season to season,
having quickly shaken off its dry business
to business image to become something
more of a spectacle, and a highly antici-
pated fixture on the fashion month calen-
dar. This past season the event, held from
January 13th-16th, saw 35,000 industry
insiders descend on Tuscany’s capital in
search of the next major trends in men’s
fashion.
Over the four days, every street, corner
and walkway is crammed with menswear’s
key trendsetters and influencers, offering
up new ways of reinterpreting traditional
tailoring – it’s not unheard of for certain
attendees to spend months preparing their
three or four outfits for their stay in Pitti.
We hit the streets to see what the Pit-
ti Uomo 87 attendees were wearing to
deliver some essential style lessons we can
all learn.

12 13
This season more than any other, Pitti’s finest were heralding a return to
1930s and 1950s era fabrics and patterns. Tweed, flannel, corduroy and
heavy duty wools featured prominently over the course of the four days.
Yet the way in which these pieces were worn was just as much a twist on, as
a homage to, the classics, with sharply contrasting colour combinations and
bold checks breathing new life into these old-school fabrics.
The Golden Age Is Returning
White in Winter
Pitti’s elite must have been paying attention when we debunked
the ‘no white in winter’ myth late last year. Aside from the odd
day of heavy rain or snow, there’s really no good reason why you
can’t wear white year-round.
Look to our street style favourites for inspiration and use a pair
of well-cut white trousers/chinos or a crisp piece of knitwear to
brighten up your cold-weather ensembles.
Amp Up Your Accessories
One of the things that always marks Pitti apart from
other fashion month events is colour. Bold, bright
and ballsy, Pitti attendees may well often limit their
looks to tailoring, but their choice of colours is
unquestionably liberal.
From patterned pocket squares and neckerchiefs to
fedoras in primary hues, it’s via colourful accents
that the Pitti trendsetters individualise their outfits.
They also tend to take a more playful approach to
accessories: layering them up (e.g. a heavy scarf
draped around the neck on top of a neatly tied
neckerchief), storing gloves in their breast pocket,
switching traditional neck ties for neckerchiefs, or
letting their scarf show from the bottom of their
buttoned-up blazer.

14 15
Move over navy and grey, rust could very
well be here to stay.
We know that doesn’t read like the most
exciting prospect, but rusty hues are espe-
cially autumnal and surprisingly versatile –
appearing in the form of suit jackets, contrast
sleeves and accessories at pitti.
Whether you opt for a rust-coloured suit
jacket, pair of chinos, or go for something
subtler in the shape of a tie or pocket square,
it’s time to introduce this ruddy colour into
your core palette.
Make use of Rusty Hues
Get Clashing
Flouting outdated style rules, the turnout at Pitti was all for clashing colours and mixing patterns.
Checks of different scales were paired together, while colour contrasts that really shouldn’t have
worked – but did – cropped up regularly throughout the four-day event.
The antithesis to the growing trend for minimalist, monochrome ensembles elsewhere, the outfits at
Pitti featured three to four contrasting colours on average, and sometimes more when vivid prints were
involved.
Layer with Dinem
Perhaps spurred on by the likes of Tom Ford and Prada’s denim-filled spring/summer 2015
collections, Pitti’s finest looked to the key workwear fabric for layering.
Some swapped the traditional white button-down shirt for an indigo denim style, often com-
bining with tailoring and a tie, while others used denim jackets as the middle layer between
their shirt and a piece of statement outerwear like a fur-trimmed collar coat – proof that this
material’s humble origins don’t necessarily prevent it from being dressed up.

16 17
Appreciate All-New Nick Wooster x Lardini
No Pitti-themed round-up would be complete without a mention of street style king Nick
Wooster’s latest exploits.
Currently in its second season, Wooster’s collaboration with Italian brand Lardini deliv-
ers more of the sartorial smarts unveiled with the debut collection in June 2014.
Combining Lardini’s renowned fabrics and construction with The Woost’s signature mix
and match patterned blazers, trousers and natty tailoring, it’s the definition of classic
with a twist.

18 19
Awards season is well and truly under way, and with the Oscars steadily approaching, peo-
ple can’t seem to get enough of the red carpet – though sadly, the best dressed guys often
get overlooked amongst a sea of samey suits and headline-grabbing dresses.
Menswear is often built around rigid rules and strict codes, nowhere more so than evening
wear – but what if you fancy switching things up now and again by adding a dose of per-
sonality to your formal looks?
The good news is that the limitations of tailoring and evening wear are actually strengths; a
good suit or tux is a blank canvas for you to customise. With that in mind, we’ve compiled
the easiest ways to make your suit your own without looking like you’ve tried too hard.
Armed with these handy tips, you can easily switch up the same suit for different occa-
sions, whether it’s a spring wedding or client dinner.
Individualising The Suit

20 21
Although often overlooked, your jacket lapel is primed for accessorising.
The most formal option available to you is a boutonnière. If you’re
going down this route, you could always ask your florist for a sprig
of flower to pop in your buttonhole (I actually know someone who
habitually does this, relying on florists handing over their offcuts for
free) – but there’s always the chance that it might wilt in a matter
of hours, leaving your suit looking more mobile garden than your
wardrobe’s finest.
In our eyes, it’s far better to settle for a luxe, reusable solution that’s
not in danger of going limp, such as a floral fabric pin – Parisian
brand Lanvin’s are exceptional.
With a wide spectrum of colours available on the current market,
you could go bright and contrast it against your jacket, or try tonally
matching it to your neck wear or pocket square. For example, a mid-
grey suit worn with a pale grey tie and charcoal flower pin always
looks sharp, no matter if you’re bound for a wedding or charity gala.
At the other end of the scale, a simple metal lapel pin makes an
interesting addition to a suit during the working week (dress code
permitting) and for less formal occasions. Just remember to match
it to the other metals you’re wearing (watches, belts, cuff links, etc.)
and don’t over-accessorise – if you opt for a lapel pin, forgo the
collar bar and tie clip.
Decorate Your
Lapel

22 23
An easy way to bring character and personality to any suit is to opt
for textured neck wear. While many formal occasions will restrict
just how creative you can be with your styling, a tie or bow tie in an
interesting material will add a subtle tactile edge to your ensemble,
separating your look in a refined and understated way.
Just like your choice of attire, your neck wear should be seasonal-
ly-appropriate. For spring/summer, consider lightweight fabrics such
as linen, chambray and knitted silks, switching for rugged heritage
fabrics such as tweed, wool, flannel and cord during the colder
months of the year.
Becky Marwood’s eponymous label has truly reinvented neck wear
and is now widely considered one of the leaders in the field. Special-
ising in woven and lace-covered ties and bow ties that are more like
miniature works of art, any design from Marwood is sure to bring an
extra dimension to your formal attire.
Textured
Neck Wear

24 25
An underrated choice, silk scarves aren’t there to keep you warm
– we’re talking pure decoration in the most luxurious sense. The
slightly rakish touch a silk scarf brings to an ensemble (think icons
like Lucien Freud) makes it a particularly debonair accessory that,
while not always the easiest to pull off, promises major style points
if you manage to nail it.
Black, white, red and green versions are best for evening engage-
ments (worn draped over the shoulders or tied loosely around the
neck) and go well with deep coloured suits and tuxedos from mid-
night blue to black. Scarves in softer hues and more vibrant prints,
on the other hand, can be used for daylight hours and work well
with tailoring in white, light grey and pastel shades.
Need inspiration? Sam Smith recently gave the classic black suit
and white shirt combination a contemporary twist with a patterned
silk scarf at the GQ Men of the Year awards, while Jared Leto has
also called on a scarf time and time again to add a touch of insouci-
ance to his look. Try a black tasselled scarf to keep it classic, or go
1970s rock ‘n’ roll with a Saint Laurent creased polka dot number.
If you’re comfortable with patterns and prints, Hawes & Curtis’
lightweight paisley version for SS15 is truly eye-catching.
Style It Out With
A Silk Scarf

26 27
Shake Up Your
Shirt
A tux is a tux, and a suit is a suit. If your event’s dress code is strict,
these rules are pretty unshakeable – after all, completely ignoring
etiquette is anything but stylish. However, if the invite doesn’t
explicitly state black tie, why not play with what’s layered under-
neath?
For formal occasions, granddad collar shirts in cotton or silk can
look striking under a blazer, whether they’re buttoned right up or
left a little open. Both Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester
are renowned for crafting slightly oversized granddad collar shirts
that are sure to look just as good with your suit/dinner jacket off, as
on.
For the office and smart-casual events, you can afford to be slightly
bolder with your choice. A patterned shirt in a timeless motif – think
checks, polka dots, stripes and subtle florals – will instantly add
interest and flair to a standard navy or grey suit, while smart but-
ton-downs in unconventional, textured materials such as flannel and
denim (trending for SS15) can help introduce character and depth to
an otherwise classic look.

28 29
Get Collar
Barred
A distinguished choice when the dress code is slightly more rigid,
the collar bar is another item that doesn’t really serve much sartorial
purpose beyond, well, looking good (and making your choice of tie
stand out).
Favoured by gentlemen at each end of the style spectrum, from the
superlative (Tom Ford, the cast of Mad Men) to the questionable
(Gary Barlow), the collar bar shirt works with or without a tie,
adding a bit of toughness to a tux or suit without screaming ‘fashion
victim’.
Truth be told, there’s no real limit to wearing them – we’ve seen ties
worn under and over, and even without. T.M.Lewin and Reiss pro-
duce some nice affordable versions, but designer labels from Maison
Margiela to Gucci occasionally have them in their collections too.

30 31
Mark Your Feet
Apart
There are no hard and fast rules about what shoes to wear with a suit
or tux. And while we’d advise against something like trainers for
an important social engagement, dress slippers are a stylish way to
break apart from the herd.
At this year’s Grammys, the always-stylish Donald Glover went
sockless in a pair of Lanvin slippers with his tux, and it looked like
the most natural pairing since the shirt and tie.
Plain black velvet slippers are great, but there’s so much more
choice out there if you want to be adventurous – from patent styles
like Mr. Hare’s Belafonte, to Jimmy Choo’s classic Sloane in pat-
terned silk, to Church’s velvet slippers with embroidered detailing
on the toe.
For a next-level evening wear move, Stubbs & Wootton specialise
in customised, embroidered velvet shoes. We can’t think of a better
way to announce your arrival than showing up with your family
crest or initials (in varsity-style ‘sweater letters’) discreetly
displayed on your footwear.

32 33
The classic teardrop- shaped, wire-
rimmed sunglasses originally devel-
oped for military pilots, as the name
suggests. Other classic frame styles in-
clude ovals (worn by Mr John Lennon),
shades (wide, almost ski-goggle frames
initially developed for race car drivers),
splits (tortoises hell top and lenses open
at the bottom), wayfarers, and wrap-
around (worn by Mr Aristotle Onassi)
Alternating stripes in a shirt fabric.
Usually white and another colour such
as blue or pink. In terms of width, Ben-
gal is a happy medium between thinner
“pencil stripes” and the fatter “candy
stripes”.
A knitwear pattern that originated on Fair Isle, an is-
land off the north coast of Scotland, and which was
originally created using natural dyes made from li-
chen. It first became popular in 1921 after the Duke
of Windsor (who was Prince of Wales at the time)
wore a Fair Isle sweater to play goolf at the Royal and
Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews, Scotland, and has
recently enjoyed a fashion renaissance.
An ankle-high boot that is held together
with two high lacing. It takes it’s name
from the sport of polo, where a chukka
is a measurement of play similar to a set
in tennis. These boots can run the gam-
ut from dressy in a black kid leather to
casual in suede. The desert boot and the
brothel creeper are technically chukkas
of the casual variety.
A collarless T-shirt, with either long or
short sleeves, that usually has two or
three buttons under the neckline.
Aviator
Bengal Stripes
Fair Isle
Chukka
Henley
“Handmade in Italy, Designed in NY” is
the philosophy behind Illesteva, a con-
temporary eyewear brand renowned for
it’s stylish sunglasses. The firm is know
for pushing the boundaries of eyewear
by experimenting with materials as di-
verse as wood and natural buffalo horn.
All pairs are handmade in Europe.
Any ture man of style will own at lease
on pair. The slip-on shoe, distinguish-
able from the moccasins by a wide
heel, has its provenance in Norway- a
happenstance that would lead G.H.
Bass to begin producing loafers under
the appellation Weejuns in 1934. De-
spite once being labelled casual-only,
style can now be found up and down
the formality spectrum - from tasseled
tp penny and driving, in leather, suede
and nubuck; all prepetually laceless and
eternlly rekish.
A monk strap shoe is one which contains no laces and instead is closed with a buckle and strap
fastening. Historically, monk straps were worn by monks and members of the Roman Catholic
clergy as early as the 11th Century. In modern society, monk strap shoes offer a distinctive
style which stands out from the common lace-up. The beauty of monk straps is that they offer
a huge variety of options as ultimately it is only the fastening which is different.
Iillesteva
Loafer
Monk Strap
Glossaryof
Men’sStyle

34 35
This English town has benn a centre of
quality shoesmaking since the 17th cen-
tury. Some of the brands that are still
headquartered here include Church’s
and Jogn Lobb.
The perfect summer shoe - great for
laughing by the pool, wearing on deck,
or for adding an element of 1950s style
to your off-duty look. Constructed from
canvas and cotton mesh, with leath-
er-lined soles, Rivieras are elegant and
hard-wearing.
An overcoat is made of a heavier, warmer cloth than a top-
coat. If you live in a place with real winter, you might use a
topcoat for the late fall and early spring and keep an over-
coat for the teeth-chattering months of January and Febru-
ary. Overcoats usually extend below the knee as opposed
to a “car coat”, a slightly antique term used to describe an
overcoat that stops at the knees and leaves the drivers legs
unencumbered to work the gas, clutch abd brake pedals.
A desired pelt for winter coats, hats and gloves. Sheep or lambskin tanned with the wool attached.
The wool lined hide offers a rugged appeal and ultimate warmth. Commonly associated with the
shearling collar, which is often found on leather jackets.
Pocket squares are popular once again;
it’s now largely unremarkable to have a
piece of cotton, linen or silk adorning
your suit’s breast pocket.
A tie bar is a piece of funtional jewel-
lery designed to keep the two blades of
a tie together.
A tiepin os a wholly decorative piece
of jewellery that consists of a large pin
with some kind of feature at the visible
end- a pearl or miniature casting of an
animal’s head, perhaps. Originally they
were used to secure the folds of a man’s
cravat.
When a filling - traditionally goose or
duck down - is sandwiched between
two layers of fabric to create a warm
and insulating garment, usually a coat.
The reason these take on a patchwprk
appearance is that the filling must be
kept in small pockets, it would other-
wise all fall to the bottom of the coat.
Stands for Unique Personal Style. This is a term
often applied to idiosyncratic dressers who have
figured out a look that works for them. It should
be the goal of every man by the time he hits 30.
Northampton Rivieras Overcoat
Shearling
Pocket Square
Tie Bar and Tiepin
Quilted Coat
U.P.S.
Wingtip shoes feature a top cap that
comes to a point in the center, and
spreads out toward to sides of the
shoes, in a shape that somewhat resem-
bles wings. This part of the shoes is
sometimes perforated with small holes
around the edges.
Wingtips
Taken from the Persian word for dust, “kha-
ki” was first used to describle the colour of the
field uniform adopted by the British military in
19th century India. Similar to the word “chino”
(which originally referred to a type of fabric, not
a garment), the term has also come to refer to tan
cotton trousers in general.
Khaki

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