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HERBS IN COSMETICS
1 SUN PROTECTION
In the past, sun exposure was thought to be a healthy benefit of outdoor
activity.
However, studies have shown many unhealthy effects of sun exposure, such
as early aging of the skin and skin cancer.
Part of the sun's energy that reaches earth is composed of rays of invisible
ultraviolet (UV) light.
When ultraviolet light rays (UVA and UVB) enter the skin, they damage skin
cells, causing visible and invisible injuries resulting in increased numbers of
moles, freckles, wrinkles, weakening of the immune system and skin
cancers.
More than 1 million people in the US are diagnosed with skin cancer each
year.
Sunburn is a visible type of damage, which appears just a few hours after
sun exposure.
In many people, this type of damage also causes tanning, or increased
pigmentation of the skin, which is noticeable a few days after sun exposure.
Freckles, which occur in people with fair skin, are usually due to sun
exposure.
Freckles are nearly always a sign of sun damage, and therefore demonstrate
the need for sun protection.
Ultraviolet light rays also cause invisible damage to skin cells.
Some of the injury is repaired, but some of the cell damage adds up year
after year.
After 20 to 30 years or more, the built-up damage appears as wrinkles, age
spots, and even skin cancer.
UVA rays, which are not absorbed by the ozone layer, penetrate deep into the
skin and heavily contribute to premature aging.
Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging
are caused by sun exposure.
UVB are the powerful rays, which are partially absorbed by the ozone layer,
mostly affect the surface of the skin and are the primary cause of sunburn.
Because of the thinning of the ozone layer, the effects of UVB radiation will
pose an increased threat until the layer is restored in the latter half of the
21century.
The high energy contained within a photon of UVB light is sufficient to
induce permanent structural changes in DNA and, in so doing, will disrupt
the genetic coding of individual cells.
In most cases this damage is corrected by cellular 'repair'
mechanisms, but occasionally 'repair' is not 100% accurate or
complete and this may ultimately lead to the degenerative process
of malignancy.
UV radiation is also linked with various eye diseases, including
cataract formation and retinal degeneration.
Certain diseases, such as lupus, can also make a person more
sensitive to sun exposure.
Some medications, such as antibiotics and antihistamines and even
certain herbal remedies, can cause extra sensitivity to the sun's
rays.
The clouds block a good part of UVB, the burning rays, but they
do not block UVA, the tanning rays.
Therefore, while there is less probability of getting sunburn, the skin is
exposed to the deeper penetrating UVA rays, which cause tanning and
wrinkling.
As a result, it is important to stay protected from the sun, even on cloudy
days.
If possible, avoid the sun between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
It is best to plan indoor activities or seek trees, umbrellas, or tents.
One useful rule of thumb is that if your shadow is shorter than you, the sun is
directly above and it is best to head for cover.
Sun exposure is more in closer to the equator, in the mountains, and in the
summer.
The sun's damaging, increased by reflection from water, white sand, and
snow.
All infants should be kept direct sun and be covered by protective clothing
when possible.
If sun expo unavoidable, sunscreen should be applied to exposed areas (ie.
face, hands) Su have been deemed safe for infants older than 6 months of
age.
UV filters, ingredients have been day protect the skin from UV radiation,
moisturizing creams, foundations sunscreens & lipstick skin care should
follow any skin with sun but also in daily-use cosmetics, such as maintain
its integrity and barrier function.
Cover skin with sun protective clothing outdoors, including a wide-
brimmed hat to protect the face, scalp, ears and neck.
In add to filtering out the sun, tightly woven clothing reflects heat and
helps keep you feeling Multiple retailers now sell sun protective
clothing for adults and children.
Sunglasses UV protection can help protect the eyes and eyelids from
the harmful effects of UV light all sunglasses have UV protection, so be
sure to check the label.
Avoid artificial tan devices, such as tanning booths and sunlamps.
Use the UV index when planning outdoor activities.
Apply sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) greater than or
equal to daily.
SUNSCREEN
Sunscreen (also commonly known as sun block, sun tan lotion, sun
screen, sunburn cream or block out) is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical
product that absorbs or reflects some of fir sun's UV radiation on the
skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn Skin
lightening products have sunscreen to protect lightened skin because
light skin is no susceptible to sun damage than darker skin.
Sunscreen products can be classified into two main categories
according to their purpose Primary sunscreens are products whose
main purpose is to provide photoprotection for the skin, such as
beach sunscreens and products used for outdoor activities
Secondary sunscreens are products that have a primary use other
than skin protection, such as daily moisturizing creams, antiaging
creams, and color cosmetic such as facial foundations.
For this category of products, sun protection is an additional benefit,
but not the main purpose of the products, sun pes, they are also
considered over the counter (OTC) drugs in the US since they
provide photoprotection.
Sunscreens for infants and children
Sunscreens are not recommended for infants.
The FDA recommends that infants be kept out of the sun during the hours of 10
a.m. and 2 p.m., and to use protective clothing if they have to be in the sun.
Infants are at greater risk than adults of sunscreen side effects, such as a rash.
The best protection for infants is to keep them out of the sun entirely.
Ask a doctor before applying sunscreen to children under six months of age.
Sunscreen comes in many forms, including lotions, creams, sticks, gels, oils,
butters, pastes, sprays.
The directions for using sunscreen products can vary according to their forms.
For example, spray sunscreens should never be applied directly to your face.
This is just one reason why you should always read the label before using a
sunscreen product.
How to apply and store sunscreen
Apply 15 minutes before you go outside.
This allows the sunscreen (of SPF 15 or higher) to have enough time to
provide the maximum benefit.
Use enough to cover your entire face and body (avoiding the eyes and
mouth).
An average-sized adult or child needs at least one ounce of sunscreen
(about the amount it takes to fill a shot glass) to evenly cover the body
from head to toe.
Frequently forgotten spots
Ears, nose, lips, back of neck, hands, tops of feet, along the hairline, areas
of the head exposed by balding or thinning hair.
Storage of sunscreen
To keep sunscreen in good condition, the FDA recommends that sunscreen
containers should not be exposed to direct sun.
Protect the sunscreen by wrapping the containers in towels or keeping them
in the shade.
Sunscreen containers can also be kept in coolers while outside in the heat
for long periods of time.
This is why all sunscreen labels must say: "Protect the product in this
container from excessive heat and direct sun."
Sunscreen ingredients.
Every drug has active ingredients and inactive ingredients.
In the case of sunscreen, active ingredients are the ones that are protecting
your skin from the sun's harmful UV rays.
Inactive ingredients are all other ingredients that are not active ingredients,
such as water or oil that may be used in formulating sunscreens.
Although the protective action of sunscreen products takes place on the
surface of the skin, there is evidence that at least some sunscreen active
ingredients may be absorbed through the skin and enter the body.
This makes it important to perform studies to determine whether, and to what
extent, use of sunscreen products as directed may result in unintended, chronic,
systemic exposure to sunscreen active ingredients.
Below is a list of acceptable active ingredients in products that are labeled as
sunscreen:
1:List of approved UV filters
Aminobenzoic acid or PABA, Avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Cinoxate, Dioxybenzone, Homosalate, Menthyl anthranilate or meradimate,
Octocrylene, Octyl methoxycinnamate or octinoxate, Octyl salicylate or
octisalate, Oxybenzone or benzophenone-3, Octyl dimethyl PABA or padimate
O, Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or ensulizole, Sulisobenzone, Titanium
dioxide or TiO2, Trolamine salicylate
Qualities of an ideal sunscreen agent
To be considered as a potential UV screening agent a chemical entity
must have the following attributes:
1. It must absorb UV light over a broad or specified part of the
spectrum without any chemical breakdown which would lead to a
reduction in efficacy or the production of toxic or irritant by-products.
2. It must possess suitable characteristics to allow it to be readily
formulated cosmetic vehicles and should be absorbed easily into the
skin.
3. It must be resistant to removal by water or sweat.
4. It must not require too-frequent re-application to be
effective.
5. It must be highly effective at low concentrations.
6. It must be non toxic, non irritant and non sensitizing.
Function of sunscreen
The function of sunscreen products is to absorb/scatter/reflect solar
UV, thereby reducing the dose of such harmful radiation to the skin.
This is accomplished through the use of a combination of UV filters
and an appropriate film forming vehicle.
Safety
The safety of sun screening agents is determined by toxicity studies,
ability to cause irritation, sensitization, phototoxicity, and its impact
on environment.
Types of sunscreen
Sunscreen comes in many forms including:
Emulsion , Lotions, Creams, Sticks, Gels, Oils, Ointment,
Pastes, Sprays, Butters
Recent Developments
The term "broad spectrum protection" refers to protection against both UVA
and UVB rays.
It has been shown in studies that using sunscreens with even a high SPF value
does not provide appropriate protection against UVA radiation, which is
responsible for photoaging and skin cancer formation.
Therefore, in order to prevent the long term effects, protection is needed against
both types of rays. Due to increasing concerns regarding the skin damaging
effect of UVA radiation, the FDA recently issued new requirements for
sunscreens.
The new rules include testing and labeling requirements for protection against
UVA radiation. Sunscreens that meet the FDA standard for both UVA and UVB
protection can be labeled as "broad spectrum."
This term has been used for a while; however, it did not have an official
definition or a standard testing.
Now standardized methods are available to measure UVA protection.
The new requirements also specify statements that should be used on
product labels to indicate whether the product provides protection
against aging and skin cancer or just sunburn.
Scientific studies have demonstrated that products that are broad-
spectrum with SPF 15 or higher can reduce the risk of skin cancer and
early skin aging when used with other skin Protection measures (e.g.,
sun protective clothing).
According to the new rules, broad spectrum sunscreens with an SPF 15 or
higher can have the following statement on the labels: "...decreases the risk
of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun."
However, any sunscreen that is not broad spectrum or is less than SPF 15
broad spectrum has to put the following warning statement on its label to
inform consumer the potential adverse effects of sun damage.
The warning statement as follows:
"Spending time in the sun increases risk of skin cancer and early skin aging
The product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or
early skin aging
Newer broad spectrum chemical agents, such as bisethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphen Newer broad some thylene bis-benzotriazolyl
tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), and butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl methane
(BMDBM), have been found to be effective against UVA and UVB rays
ranging from 280 to 400nm.
These new agents have been formulated to be more in soluble (oil soluble
in cosmetic oils) to aid in efficacy and broad-spectrum activity.
They known to prevent the formation of free radicals induced by UV
radiation to a significant level.
These agents claim to be photostable, minimize erythema, and provide
excellent antiaging effects as well as protect the skin's antioxidant defense
system.
In studies, these new agents have shown to provide protection
against intentional self tanning.
Further, the also claim that there is no bioaccumulation, thereby
exhibiting a good safety profile.
The also claim to have the following advantages: instant action,
longer duration of protection improved cosmetic appearance of
the skin in the form of less wrinkles, suitability fat sensitive skin,
and suitability for children.
CLASSIFICATION OF SUNSCREEN
We will discuss only two categories of sunscreen agents: organic and inorganic.
The organ sunscreens are referred to as soluble or chemical sunscreens. The
inorganic sunscreens commonly known as physical, mineral, insoluble, natural
or nonchemical.
Organic sunscreens
Organic sunscreens have been the mainstay of sunscreen formulation for
decades and although inorganic sunscreens are gaining in popularity, organic
sunscreens are still used greater amounts.
Organic sunscreens are often classified as derivatives of anthranilates
Salicylates es, camphors, cinnamates, dibenzoylmethanderivatives , benzoate,
salicylates.
These aromatic compounds absorb a specific portion of the UVR spectrum that
is generally re-emitted at a less energetic, longer wavelength i.e. heat or light or
used in photochemical reaction, such as cis-trans or keto-enol photochemical
isomerization.
The organic sunscreens are almost always used in combination because no
single organic sunscreen agent, used at levels currently allowed by the U.S.
food and drug administration, can provide a high sun protection factor.
Further, individual organic sunscreens have a relatively narrow absorption
spectrum that can be broadened by combinations.
Specific combinations of organic sunscreens are used frequently depending on
the intended product usage, recreational or daily photo protection and the
desired attributes such as waterproof or sweat proof.
Most recently, the combination of organic and inorganic sunscreens has become
increasingly popular in sunscreen products.
Inorganic sunscreens
During this decade, the inorganic sunscreens have been used with increasing
frequency in beach and daily use photo protection products.
This has been driven, in part, by their safety and effectiveness, particularly in
blocking UVA, and the concern regarding potential adverse effects of organic
sunscreens.
The inorganic sunscreens are generally viewed as harmless Pigments that
cannot enter the skin and are largely unaffected by light energy like organic
sunscreens may be.
The two most commonly used inorganic sunscreens are titanium dioxide
(TiO ) and zinc oxide (ZnO). Although these two metal oxides differ
₂
substantially in their appearance and attenuation spectra, they share some
general properties that are discussed briefly.
Zinc oxide and TiO, exist as odorless white powders comprised of a
Gausian or normal distribution of particle sizes.
Microfine powders, used in sunscreen products, have an average particle
size of approximately 0.20 pm (micron) or less with a distribution that is
narrow and well controlled.
Importantly, compared to the traditional pigment grades of
these metal oxides that have been used for years in cosmetic products,
microfine powders do not contain smaller particles, rather the lower end
of the normal particle size augmented through specialized manufacturing
procedures.
In other words, microfine powders have always been present in ZnO- or
TiO2, containing products but were optically overwhelmed by the larger
particles.
Thus, microfine particles do not represent an entirely new particle size, just
a refinement of the existing particle size distribution.
Zinc oxide or TiO2 used in sunscreen preparations is often coated with other
materials such as silicones distribution is fatty acids or oxides of aluminum,
silicon or zirconium to aid in dispersion.
The coatings were developed by the paint industry to reduce particle
agglomeration, which improves the distribution of particles when applied as
a thin film on a surface.
The proper coating provides better compatibility between the particle and
the dispersion medium, which ultimately improves aesthetics and decreases
processing costs.
Further, coating tray reduce any potential photo reactivity of the metal
oxides.
SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (SPF)
The term "sun protection factor" was adopted by the FDA to describe the
effectiveness of sunscreens.
4 SPF is a measure that indicates how long it takes for UV rays to redden
protected skin (ie., skin with a sunscreen) compared to unprotected skin
(i.e., skin without a sunscreen).
As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases.
The effectiveness of a given SPF is measured in terms of redness (medically
termed "erythema") that appears on the skin after sun exposure.
The amount of UV energy required to produce the first visible redness on
the skin is referred to as the minimal erythema dose (MED).
As SPF values are determined from the test that measures protection
against sunburn caused by UVB radiation, SPF values only indicate a
sunscreen's UVB protection.
The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of specific
wavelength of range of wavelengths which produces the first unambiguous
reddening of human skin, 24 hours after exposure.
Under constant intensity conditions the total quantity or dose of radiant
energy is directly proportional to total time of exposure and hence MEDs
are often described as either total energy dose or exposure time at a stated
constant energy flux.
Depending upon wavelength and intensity of the source of
irradiation, an MED time (or dose) can vary from a few minutes
(high intensity UVB) to many hours (sun light intensity UVA).
Within this range, minor variations will also occur between
individual skin types
In the Federal Register, SPF is defined as the UV radiation required
to produce 1 MED on protected skin after application of 2 mg/cm2
of product divided by the UVR to produce MED on unprotected
skin.
Sun protection factor (SPF) = Minimal erythema dose with sunscreen
Minimal erythema dose without sunscreen
Currently, sunscreens in the US are required to carry an SPF value, which
informs users how well the product protects against UVB light.
The number you see associated with SPF represents the length of time (in
minutes) you can theoretically stay out in the sun without burning,
multiplied by the corresponding number.
For example, a person who would normally start to burn in 10 min could
theoretically have 150 min of sun protection with a sunscreen that has an
SPF of 15.
This is only true in theory, though since SPF is not directly related to the
time of solar exposure, but to the amount of solar exposure.
Although the amount of solar energy is related to the exposure time, there
are other factors that can impact the dose of solar energy.
The amount of sunscreen applied also impacts the amount of solar
radiation absorbed; more sunscreen results in less solar energy absorption.
The amount of 2 mg/cm² is used for SPF effectiveness testing; however,
studies show that in reality, users usually use only 20-50% of the amount
needed to achieve the labeled SPF,
Sunscreens wear off over time; therefore, reapplication frequency is also
critical for optimal effectiveness.
Physical activities, sweating, and running may rub off the products, while
swimming may wash off the product; these conditions shorten the
reapplication time.
Historically, SPF values have ranged from 2 to greater than 100.
This led to the assumption that higher SPF provides significantly better
sun protection (ie., SPF 30 being twice as protective as SPF 15).
This is not true, however.
It has been shown into in vitro tests that SPF 15 sunscreens filter out
93% of UVB rays, while SPF 30 protects against 97% and SPF 50,
98%.
The higher the number, the smaller is the difference in terms of UVB
protection.
The SPF value refers to the amount of solar exposure against which the
sunscreen provides protection and not the length of solar exposure you
can have without getting sunburn.
Sun Protection Factor Classification
Protection level
Low protection- 15
Medium protection- 20
High protection- 25
Very high protection- 50+
SKINCARE
1. ALOE
Aloe vera has been used for a host of purposes since the ancient Egyptians
called "plant of immortality" also known as Ghritkumari in Hindi.
Kalabandain Telugu, Katralal in Tamil ,Kumarijn Malayalam an perform
miracles not just for your skin but for your hair and health as well.
Aloe vera is a common plant that was originally native to the hot and health
the Arabian Peninsula.
Nowadays the plant genus Aloe incorporates over different species that are
grown and cultivated all over the world.
Aloe vera is distinguished by its dark green, often grey, leaves that
can grow to be anywhere from 20 to 100cm .
The plant has triangular, fleshy leaves with serrated edges, yellow
tubular flowers and fruther the contain numerous seeds.
Each leaf is composed of three layers:
An inner clear gel that contains 99% water and rest is made of
glucomannans, acids, lipids, sterols and vitamins.
The middle layer of latex which is the bitter yellow sap and
contains anthraquinones and glycosides.
The outer thick layer of 15-20 cells called as rind which has
protective function ang synthesizes carbohydrates and proteins.
Inside the rind are vascular bundles responsible for transportation
of substances such as water (xylem) and steam (phloem).
Different aloe vera varieties produce different kinds of leaves, with some
being smooth an fleshy, whilst others feature prominent, white-tipped
spines.
Despite the popularity that a plant contain today's society, this is not a recent
phepines.
Despite the pes of the ale v so versatile and huge variety of different
nutrients, hemmenon.
The leave mes that make beneficial to human health.
These include: Vitamins A, B, C, D and E, Vitamin B12 (aloe vera is one of
only a few plants to contain this nutrient) Copper, Magnesium, Potassium,
Zinc, Calcium, Chromium, Manganese, Sodium
Over 75 different compounds have been found within aloe vera
that is regularly exploited by a variety of different industries to
maximise the nutritional content of their products.
Since then, its uses have become more targeted and medicinal, and
it's one of the leading therapies for sunburns.
Aloe vera is a cactus plant that belongs to the Liliaceae family.
It grows in dry climates such as those found in parts of Africa and
India and has been used medicinally for centuries.
Aloe leaves secrete a clear gel that when broken off from the rest of the
plant that can be applied topically to heal wounds and soothe skin.
Various studies have been conducted to examine the benefits of the aloe
vera plant and it was found out that aloe vera does in fact have several
properties that are effective in treating a variety of skin conditions, from
flaky or dry skin, cosmetic ailments, hair and scalp problems to many
more.
It is also said to be useful in treating wounds and burns, minor skin
infections, cysts, diabetes, and elevated blood lipids in humans, and
shows some promise in treating more serious and persistent conditions
such as eczema, genital herpes, dandruff, psoriasis, canker sores, skin
ulcers and others.
Benefits of Aloe Vera
1. It treats sunburn
Aloe vera helps with sunburn through its powerful healing activity
at the epithelial level of the skin, a layer of cells that cover the
body.
It acts as a protective layer on the skin and helps replenish its
moisture.
Because of its nutritional qualities and antioxidant properties, the
skin heals quicker.
2. It acts as a moisturizer
Aloe moisturizes the skin without giving it a greasy feel, so it is perfect for
anyone with an oily skin complexion.
For women who use mineral based make up, aloe vera acts as a moisturizer
and is great for the face prior to the application to prevents skin drying.
For men aloe vera gel can be used as an aftershave treatment as its healing
properties can treat small cuts caused by shaving.
The aloe vera gel features cooling properties that can be soothing for skin
that has been exposed to the sun for a long period of time.
In general, aloe can be used to reduce skin irritation and inflammations
such as acne and eczema.
3. It treats acne
Acne is a skin disease that is caused when pores on your body become
clogged with cells, toxins and/or bacteria.
These areas can begin to exhibit symptoms like blackheads whiteheads,
spots and even oily skin.
Aloe vera, given its anti microbial properties, is the used as a facial herbal
remedy to help heal blemishes and scars that may be created result of acne.
Aloe vera is a rich natural source of vitamin C, which can help with
production of collagen, an important protein that can be found in the skin
and connective tissues.
Collagen helps to ensure that skin cells remain supple, firm and song, which
help to combat spots and acne, may be a beneficial addition skincare
treatment
Aloe vera gel contains two hormones: Auxin and Gibberellins.
These two hormones provide wound healing and anti-inflammatory
properties that reduce skin inflammation.
Gibenla in aloe vera acts as a growth hormone stimulating the growth
of new cells.
It allows the sid to heal quickly and naturally with minimal scarring.
Aloe is soothing and can reduce skin inflammations, blistering and
itchiness, while helping the skin to heal more rapid Additionally, in
Ayurvedic medicine, Aloe is used to effectively heal chronic skin
problems such as psoriasis, acne and eczema.
4. It fights aging
Aloe vera may be able to help promote the production of collagen
to help keep skin healthy
Without sufficient collagen you may begin to see your skin sag,
wrinkle and age fastet.
Ad vera skin creams, gels and supplements might be able to help
counter these different derms known to play of the diverse
nutritional content they possess.
Vitamin C play a role in collagen production, so increasing your
intake of this nutrition to help the use or ingestion of aloe vera
products or supplements may be an ideal so to boost anti ageing
efforts.
5. It lessens the visibility of stretch marks
The skin is like one big piece of elastic that will expand and contract as
needed accommodate growth.
But if the skin stretches too far, too fast (due to pregnancy cars weight
gain or loss) the elasticity of the skin can be damaged.
That is what leaves those unsightly stretch marks.
These marks appear due be damaged.
Tin the layers of the skin caused by sudden and excessive stretching.
Aloe vera gel can help hide these stretch marks by healing these
wounds,
Aloe is rich in vitamins
It has polysaccharides that give hydrating, anti-inflammatory
benefits and allow for aloe to give a protective barrier on the skin.
Aloe also has phytosterols which help to soothe itchiness and
irritation while also giving protection to prevent TEWL (trans-
epidermal water loss).
Aloe vera gel has bioactive compounds in the plant that are rich in
vitamins A, B, C, D and E as well as minerals like magnesium,
potassium and zinc.
These are all thought to aid in the healing benefits of aloe.
7.Aloe is perfect for skincare
Aloe vera soap and gel come loaded with several nutrients like glycerin,
sodium palmate, sodium carbonate, sodium palm kemelate, sorbitol.
These are good for the skin and nourish your skin from within, giving
you the skin that glows with health.
Aloe vera gel can be fill into ice cube trays and freeze.
Then, whenever needs a source of cooling relief, can easily grab one and
rub onto the inflamed area.
The esthetician also claims some people use aloe vera gel for
shaving their legs.
Due to the consistency of a gel, it will hug' the skin nicely so a
razor can go over the skin easily without causing irritation.
Plus, aloe vera will be significantly more hydrating and
conditioning to the skin than a traditional shaving foam or bar
soap.
3. Effects on skin exposure to UV and gamma radiation
Aloe vera gel has been reported to have a protective effect against
radiation damage to the slan
Exact role is not known, but following the administration of aloe vera
gel, an antioxidant protein, metallothionein, is generated in the skin,
which scavenges hydroxyl radicals and prevents suppression of
superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase in the skin.
It reduces the production and release of skin keratinocyte derived
immunosuppressive cytokines such as interleukin-10 (IL-10) and
hence prevents UV induced suppression of delayed type
hypersensitivity.
9. Healing properties
Be it psoriasis or eczema, blisters or bites, aloe vera's antiallergenic
properties can help heal them.
Aloe is most commonly used as a topical treatment for cuts, burns and
other wounds and with good reason.
10. Helps in getting radiant skin
It is very effective in ridding your body of dead skin cells and
replenishing it with new ones. This, in turn, gives skin a healthy glow.
11. Used for tan removal
It can help restore the natural colour of skin if it has been tanned.
12. Gives softer lips
Using an aloe vera based lip balm can really help soothe
chapped lips, making them soft supple.
13. Softens feet
Aloe vera gel scrubs help exfoliate your skin and make them
smooth and soft.
TURMERIC
Turmeric has also been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, which
integrates medicinal properties of herbs with food.
This extraordinary herb has found its way indo spotlight in the west and
rest of globe, because of its wide range of medicinal benefits.
Used turmeric dates back nearly 4000 years to the Vedic culture in India.
It is extensively used in Ayurveda, Unani and Siddha medicine as home
remedy for various diseases.
Turmeric derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa, (family-
Zingiberaceae) is a perennial plant having short stem with large oblong
leaves, and bears ovate, pyriform or oblong rhizome which are often
branched and brownish-yellow in colour.
Turmeric a native of South-Ea Asia, is used as a food additive (spice),
preservative and colouring agent in Asian countries including China,
Bangladesh and South East Asia.
It is primarily cultivated in Chin Taiwan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Burma
(Myanmar), Nigeria, Australia, West Indies. Per Jamaica and some other
Caribbean and Latin American countries.
Accounting for about 78 percent of world turmeric production, India is
the largest product of turmeric.
It is also the biggest consumer and exporter of turmeric.
Turmeric also known 'Haridra' or 'Haldi', turmeric contains protein
(6.3%), fat (5.1%), minerals (3.552 Carbohydrates (69.4%) and moisture
(23.1%) The essen), dat (5.1%), mined by steam distillation of rhizomes
has a-phellanderene (1%), sabielle (58%) obtains), (0.5%), zingiberene
(25%) and sesquiterpines (53%).
Curcumin is the principal curcuminoid
turmeric gives yellower two are desmethoxycurcumin and
bisdesmethoxycurcumin.
Curcumin gives yellow colour to turmeric and is now recognized as
being responsible for most of the therapeutic effects.
Although its ability to preserve food through its antioxidant
mechanism, to give colour to fed and to add taste to the food is well
known, its health promoting effects are less well noognized or
appreciated.
It was once considered a cure for jaundice, an appetite suppressant
and a digestive.
In Indian and Chinese medicines, turmeric was used as anti-
inflammatory agents to treat gas, colic, toothaches, chest pains, and
menstrual difficulties.
This spice was also used to help with stomach and liver problems,
to heal wounds and lighten scars and as a cosmetic.
BENEFITS OF TURMERIC
1. Protects from sun damage
In a 2009 animal study, researchers applied turmeric extract to skin that had
been damaged by long-term, low-dose ultraviolet radiation.
They found that it protected the skin from UV rays, prevented the formation of
wrinkles, helped retain skin elasticity, and reduced the appearance of dark spots.
2 years later, a study mixed turmeric extract into a skin cream, and then applied
it to skin for six weeks.
Results showed that the cream protected against the sun, and also improved the
skin's ability to naturally moisturize itself.
The researchers suggested that the extract could be incorporated into sunscreen
formulas.
2. Helps reduce acne
Turmeric appears to have natural oil controlling properties.
In 2013, researchers evaluated cream with turmeric extract on acne
sufferers.
They first evaluated the amount of oil, or sebum, on the skin of the
volunteers.
They then gave some the cream with the turmeric, and others a cream
without turmeric.
Results showed that those using the regular cream actually experienced an
increase in skin sebum (more oil production) starting the sixth week of the
study.
Those using the turmeric cream, on the other hand, experienced
a reduction in skin oil starting in the fourth week of use, and that
reduction reached 25 percent by the end of the study period (10
weeks).
Research is still new in this area but if you have oily skin that
frequently breaks out, try adding turmeric extract to your
homemade masks to see if it helps.
If you are using the powder, be sure to mix it with other
ingredients, as otherwise it may, over time, leave a yellow stain
on your skin.
3. Reduces risk of skin cancer
Here is another reason manufacturers would be wise to add turmeric
to sunscreens-it has anti-cancer activity.
Many studies show that this natural ingredient helps slow the
growth of cancer cells, and even shrinks tumors.
A few studies have looked at skin cancer, in particular.
In 2011, for example, researchers pretreated mice with curcumin
extract for three days.
They then injected skin cancer cells into the treated areas, and
measured the resting tumors.
Results showed that in the control mice, tumor volume increased 2.3
times faster than in the mice that received the 15 mg curcumin extract.
Researchers concluded that curcumin Inhibits the growth of skin
cancer cells, and blocks tumor progression.
An earlier 2 study found similar results, with curcumin killing and
stopping the growth of melanin skin cancer cells as melanoma is the
most deadly form of skin cancer.
4. Helps heal wounds
Turmeric has a long history of being a wound-healer.
Whether one was to suffer a bru insect bite, infected wound, or even mouth
inflammation, a turmeric salve or paste was the answer.
Modern research has confirmed this is a good idea.
Turmeric paste was jull effective as honey in healing wounds, helping skin
to heal faster than it would have without the application of either substance.
An earlier 1999 study compared turmeric with coconut oil and a control,
and found that turmeric was more effective at helping the wound to clog and
heal.
The curcumin found in turmeric can help wounds heal by
decreasing inflammation and oxidation.
It also lowers the response of your body to cutaneous wounds. This
results in your wounds healing more quickly.
Studies have found that turmeric can positively affect tissue and
collagen as well.
The journal Life Sciences recommends applying curcumin as an
optimized formula to best work on skin wounds.
In 2011, researchers assessed the use of a topical curcumin solution
on burn wounds, and found it to be just as effective as the standard
drug used on bums silver sulfadiazine.
In 2012, researchers tried curcumin patches on wounds and found
that not only did it improve healing time, but it also helped the skin
repair itself, encouraging the production of collagen and promoting
tissue regeneration.
5. Helps treat psoriasis
Curcumin has a natural anti-inflammatory action, which we now
know can help treat the symptoms of psoriasis.
Patients with psoriasis have elevated PhK, a particular type of
protein associated with the disease.
In 2000, researchers found that curcumin inhibit the activity of PhK
with a corresponding decrease in the severity of psoriasis symptoms.
Some studies have also found that oral curcumin may also be helpful.
In 2008, researchers reported that after giving 12 patients with
psoriasis 4.5 grams a day of oral curcuminoid C3 comples, two of them
showed an 83-88 percent improvement in their symptoms.
Researchers suggested that larger studies may show more significant
results.
Researchers gave oral curcumin 30 patients with psoriasis, and another
30 received a placebo.
Results showed that the curcumin cut levels of inflammation in the
blood by half, and improved symptoms
6. Delays the appearance of aging
Turmeric contains potent antioxidants known to protect cells against free
radical destruction
Researchers reported that curcumin protect cells from asidant damage
linked with Alzheimer's disease and that it did so in a way linked to
preserving long life.
An earlier 2010 study also reported that curcumin could be a useful anti-
aging substance.
Not only does it potentially reduce the risk of many of today's deadly
diseases, including heart disease, cancer, and Alzheimer's, it may improve
the health status of the elderly because of its powerful anti-inflammatory
properties.
Curcumin can counteract the pro-inflammatory state and believed to
participate in many age related diseases.
It makes sense that topical application of turmeric may also help delay
the appearance of aging on the skin.
Researchers applied a cream with both turmeric and niacinamide in it
(niacinamide is a form of vitamin B used in many facial creams), or a
cream with just niacinamide, to groups of women aged 40 to 60.
They found that after eight weeks, those using the cream with
both the turmeric and the niacinamide experienced a 15 percent
improvement in fine lines and wrinkles over those using the
cream with the niacinamide alone.
In a second study, women aged 25 to 55 were able to reduce the
appearance of age spots by an average of 15 percent after eight
weeks of using a cream with turmeric twice daily.
7. Fades hyperpigmentation
The spice seems to be able to affect melanin, which is the substance in skin
responsible for pigmentation.
If you have melasma, you have too much melanin on your cheeks, chin, and
forehead. Age spots are also created by too much melanin in one place.
The curcumin in turmeric seems to block the activation of proteins that
increase and regulate melanin production.
Researchers found that curcumin extract not only protected from UV rays,
but also prevented the formation of pigmentation caused by UV radiation.
In 2013 study looked at the ability of curcumin to inhibit tyrosinase, which
is an enzyme involved in the production of melanin.
They found that it did indeed inhibit the activity of the enzyme at a
level comparable to other ingredients used in common products that
help prevent hyperpigmentation.
Another study also compared a cream containing curcumin against a
cream with four percent hydroquinone (a common lightening
ingredient) in 50 human subjects, and found that while both showed
comparable lightening effects after four weeks, the hydroquinone
cream caused mild to moderate adverse effects, while the curcumin
cream did not.
8. Scabies Treatment
Scabies is a condition caused by microscopic mites that
leave a rash in the skin.
It was found that a combination of turmeric and neem, a
plant native to India, was effective in treating scabies.

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Unit III.pptx cosmetic science unit 5 notes

  • 1. HERBS IN COSMETICS 1 SUN PROTECTION In the past, sun exposure was thought to be a healthy benefit of outdoor activity. However, studies have shown many unhealthy effects of sun exposure, such as early aging of the skin and skin cancer. Part of the sun's energy that reaches earth is composed of rays of invisible ultraviolet (UV) light. When ultraviolet light rays (UVA and UVB) enter the skin, they damage skin cells, causing visible and invisible injuries resulting in increased numbers of moles, freckles, wrinkles, weakening of the immune system and skin cancers.
  • 2. More than 1 million people in the US are diagnosed with skin cancer each year. Sunburn is a visible type of damage, which appears just a few hours after sun exposure. In many people, this type of damage also causes tanning, or increased pigmentation of the skin, which is noticeable a few days after sun exposure. Freckles, which occur in people with fair skin, are usually due to sun exposure. Freckles are nearly always a sign of sun damage, and therefore demonstrate the need for sun protection. Ultraviolet light rays also cause invisible damage to skin cells. Some of the injury is repaired, but some of the cell damage adds up year after year. After 20 to 30 years or more, the built-up damage appears as wrinkles, age spots, and even skin cancer.
  • 3. UVA rays, which are not absorbed by the ozone layer, penetrate deep into the skin and heavily contribute to premature aging. Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by sun exposure. UVB are the powerful rays, which are partially absorbed by the ozone layer, mostly affect the surface of the skin and are the primary cause of sunburn. Because of the thinning of the ozone layer, the effects of UVB radiation will pose an increased threat until the layer is restored in the latter half of the 21century. The high energy contained within a photon of UVB light is sufficient to induce permanent structural changes in DNA and, in so doing, will disrupt the genetic coding of individual cells.
  • 4. In most cases this damage is corrected by cellular 'repair' mechanisms, but occasionally 'repair' is not 100% accurate or complete and this may ultimately lead to the degenerative process of malignancy. UV radiation is also linked with various eye diseases, including cataract formation and retinal degeneration. Certain diseases, such as lupus, can also make a person more sensitive to sun exposure. Some medications, such as antibiotics and antihistamines and even certain herbal remedies, can cause extra sensitivity to the sun's rays. The clouds block a good part of UVB, the burning rays, but they do not block UVA, the tanning rays.
  • 5. Therefore, while there is less probability of getting sunburn, the skin is exposed to the deeper penetrating UVA rays, which cause tanning and wrinkling. As a result, it is important to stay protected from the sun, even on cloudy days. If possible, avoid the sun between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. It is best to plan indoor activities or seek trees, umbrellas, or tents. One useful rule of thumb is that if your shadow is shorter than you, the sun is directly above and it is best to head for cover. Sun exposure is more in closer to the equator, in the mountains, and in the summer. The sun's damaging, increased by reflection from water, white sand, and snow.
  • 6. All infants should be kept direct sun and be covered by protective clothing when possible. If sun expo unavoidable, sunscreen should be applied to exposed areas (ie. face, hands) Su have been deemed safe for infants older than 6 months of age. UV filters, ingredients have been day protect the skin from UV radiation, moisturizing creams, foundations sunscreens & lipstick skin care should follow any skin with sun but also in daily-use cosmetics, such as maintain its integrity and barrier function. Cover skin with sun protective clothing outdoors, including a wide- brimmed hat to protect the face, scalp, ears and neck.
  • 7. In add to filtering out the sun, tightly woven clothing reflects heat and helps keep you feeling Multiple retailers now sell sun protective clothing for adults and children. Sunglasses UV protection can help protect the eyes and eyelids from the harmful effects of UV light all sunglasses have UV protection, so be sure to check the label. Avoid artificial tan devices, such as tanning booths and sunlamps. Use the UV index when planning outdoor activities. Apply sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) greater than or equal to daily.
  • 8. SUNSCREEN Sunscreen (also commonly known as sun block, sun tan lotion, sun screen, sunburn cream or block out) is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of fir sun's UV radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn Skin lightening products have sunscreen to protect lightened skin because light skin is no susceptible to sun damage than darker skin.
  • 9. Sunscreen products can be classified into two main categories according to their purpose Primary sunscreens are products whose main purpose is to provide photoprotection for the skin, such as beach sunscreens and products used for outdoor activities Secondary sunscreens are products that have a primary use other than skin protection, such as daily moisturizing creams, antiaging creams, and color cosmetic such as facial foundations. For this category of products, sun protection is an additional benefit, but not the main purpose of the products, sun pes, they are also considered over the counter (OTC) drugs in the US since they provide photoprotection.
  • 10. Sunscreens for infants and children Sunscreens are not recommended for infants. The FDA recommends that infants be kept out of the sun during the hours of 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and to use protective clothing if they have to be in the sun. Infants are at greater risk than adults of sunscreen side effects, such as a rash. The best protection for infants is to keep them out of the sun entirely. Ask a doctor before applying sunscreen to children under six months of age. Sunscreen comes in many forms, including lotions, creams, sticks, gels, oils, butters, pastes, sprays. The directions for using sunscreen products can vary according to their forms. For example, spray sunscreens should never be applied directly to your face. This is just one reason why you should always read the label before using a sunscreen product.
  • 11. How to apply and store sunscreen Apply 15 minutes before you go outside. This allows the sunscreen (of SPF 15 or higher) to have enough time to provide the maximum benefit. Use enough to cover your entire face and body (avoiding the eyes and mouth). An average-sized adult or child needs at least one ounce of sunscreen (about the amount it takes to fill a shot glass) to evenly cover the body from head to toe.
  • 12. Frequently forgotten spots Ears, nose, lips, back of neck, hands, tops of feet, along the hairline, areas of the head exposed by balding or thinning hair. Storage of sunscreen To keep sunscreen in good condition, the FDA recommends that sunscreen containers should not be exposed to direct sun. Protect the sunscreen by wrapping the containers in towels or keeping them in the shade. Sunscreen containers can also be kept in coolers while outside in the heat for long periods of time. This is why all sunscreen labels must say: "Protect the product in this container from excessive heat and direct sun."
  • 13. Sunscreen ingredients. Every drug has active ingredients and inactive ingredients. In the case of sunscreen, active ingredients are the ones that are protecting your skin from the sun's harmful UV rays. Inactive ingredients are all other ingredients that are not active ingredients, such as water or oil that may be used in formulating sunscreens. Although the protective action of sunscreen products takes place on the surface of the skin, there is evidence that at least some sunscreen active ingredients may be absorbed through the skin and enter the body.
  • 14. This makes it important to perform studies to determine whether, and to what extent, use of sunscreen products as directed may result in unintended, chronic, systemic exposure to sunscreen active ingredients. Below is a list of acceptable active ingredients in products that are labeled as sunscreen: 1:List of approved UV filters Aminobenzoic acid or PABA, Avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cinoxate, Dioxybenzone, Homosalate, Menthyl anthranilate or meradimate, Octocrylene, Octyl methoxycinnamate or octinoxate, Octyl salicylate or octisalate, Oxybenzone or benzophenone-3, Octyl dimethyl PABA or padimate O, Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or ensulizole, Sulisobenzone, Titanium dioxide or TiO2, Trolamine salicylate
  • 15. Qualities of an ideal sunscreen agent To be considered as a potential UV screening agent a chemical entity must have the following attributes: 1. It must absorb UV light over a broad or specified part of the spectrum without any chemical breakdown which would lead to a reduction in efficacy or the production of toxic or irritant by-products. 2. It must possess suitable characteristics to allow it to be readily formulated cosmetic vehicles and should be absorbed easily into the skin. 3. It must be resistant to removal by water or sweat.
  • 16. 4. It must not require too-frequent re-application to be effective. 5. It must be highly effective at low concentrations. 6. It must be non toxic, non irritant and non sensitizing.
  • 17. Function of sunscreen The function of sunscreen products is to absorb/scatter/reflect solar UV, thereby reducing the dose of such harmful radiation to the skin. This is accomplished through the use of a combination of UV filters and an appropriate film forming vehicle. Safety The safety of sun screening agents is determined by toxicity studies, ability to cause irritation, sensitization, phototoxicity, and its impact on environment.
  • 18. Types of sunscreen Sunscreen comes in many forms including: Emulsion , Lotions, Creams, Sticks, Gels, Oils, Ointment, Pastes, Sprays, Butters
  • 19. Recent Developments The term "broad spectrum protection" refers to protection against both UVA and UVB rays. It has been shown in studies that using sunscreens with even a high SPF value does not provide appropriate protection against UVA radiation, which is responsible for photoaging and skin cancer formation. Therefore, in order to prevent the long term effects, protection is needed against both types of rays. Due to increasing concerns regarding the skin damaging effect of UVA radiation, the FDA recently issued new requirements for sunscreens. The new rules include testing and labeling requirements for protection against UVA radiation. Sunscreens that meet the FDA standard for both UVA and UVB protection can be labeled as "broad spectrum."
  • 20. This term has been used for a while; however, it did not have an official definition or a standard testing. Now standardized methods are available to measure UVA protection. The new requirements also specify statements that should be used on product labels to indicate whether the product provides protection against aging and skin cancer or just sunburn. Scientific studies have demonstrated that products that are broad- spectrum with SPF 15 or higher can reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used with other skin Protection measures (e.g., sun protective clothing).
  • 21. According to the new rules, broad spectrum sunscreens with an SPF 15 or higher can have the following statement on the labels: "...decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun." However, any sunscreen that is not broad spectrum or is less than SPF 15 broad spectrum has to put the following warning statement on its label to inform consumer the potential adverse effects of sun damage. The warning statement as follows: "Spending time in the sun increases risk of skin cancer and early skin aging The product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging
  • 22. Newer broad spectrum chemical agents, such as bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphen Newer broad some thylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), and butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl methane (BMDBM), have been found to be effective against UVA and UVB rays ranging from 280 to 400nm. These new agents have been formulated to be more in soluble (oil soluble in cosmetic oils) to aid in efficacy and broad-spectrum activity. They known to prevent the formation of free radicals induced by UV radiation to a significant level. These agents claim to be photostable, minimize erythema, and provide excellent antiaging effects as well as protect the skin's antioxidant defense system.
  • 23. In studies, these new agents have shown to provide protection against intentional self tanning. Further, the also claim that there is no bioaccumulation, thereby exhibiting a good safety profile. The also claim to have the following advantages: instant action, longer duration of protection improved cosmetic appearance of the skin in the form of less wrinkles, suitability fat sensitive skin, and suitability for children.
  • 24. CLASSIFICATION OF SUNSCREEN We will discuss only two categories of sunscreen agents: organic and inorganic. The organ sunscreens are referred to as soluble or chemical sunscreens. The inorganic sunscreens commonly known as physical, mineral, insoluble, natural or nonchemical. Organic sunscreens Organic sunscreens have been the mainstay of sunscreen formulation for decades and although inorganic sunscreens are gaining in popularity, organic sunscreens are still used greater amounts. Organic sunscreens are often classified as derivatives of anthranilates Salicylates es, camphors, cinnamates, dibenzoylmethanderivatives , benzoate, salicylates.
  • 25. These aromatic compounds absorb a specific portion of the UVR spectrum that is generally re-emitted at a less energetic, longer wavelength i.e. heat or light or used in photochemical reaction, such as cis-trans or keto-enol photochemical isomerization. The organic sunscreens are almost always used in combination because no single organic sunscreen agent, used at levels currently allowed by the U.S. food and drug administration, can provide a high sun protection factor. Further, individual organic sunscreens have a relatively narrow absorption spectrum that can be broadened by combinations. Specific combinations of organic sunscreens are used frequently depending on the intended product usage, recreational or daily photo protection and the desired attributes such as waterproof or sweat proof. Most recently, the combination of organic and inorganic sunscreens has become increasingly popular in sunscreen products.
  • 26. Inorganic sunscreens During this decade, the inorganic sunscreens have been used with increasing frequency in beach and daily use photo protection products. This has been driven, in part, by their safety and effectiveness, particularly in blocking UVA, and the concern regarding potential adverse effects of organic sunscreens. The inorganic sunscreens are generally viewed as harmless Pigments that cannot enter the skin and are largely unaffected by light energy like organic sunscreens may be. The two most commonly used inorganic sunscreens are titanium dioxide (TiO ) and zinc oxide (ZnO). Although these two metal oxides differ ₂ substantially in their appearance and attenuation spectra, they share some general properties that are discussed briefly.
  • 27. Zinc oxide and TiO, exist as odorless white powders comprised of a Gausian or normal distribution of particle sizes. Microfine powders, used in sunscreen products, have an average particle size of approximately 0.20 pm (micron) or less with a distribution that is narrow and well controlled. Importantly, compared to the traditional pigment grades of these metal oxides that have been used for years in cosmetic products, microfine powders do not contain smaller particles, rather the lower end of the normal particle size augmented through specialized manufacturing procedures. In other words, microfine powders have always been present in ZnO- or TiO2, containing products but were optically overwhelmed by the larger particles.
  • 28. Thus, microfine particles do not represent an entirely new particle size, just a refinement of the existing particle size distribution. Zinc oxide or TiO2 used in sunscreen preparations is often coated with other materials such as silicones distribution is fatty acids or oxides of aluminum, silicon or zirconium to aid in dispersion. The coatings were developed by the paint industry to reduce particle agglomeration, which improves the distribution of particles when applied as a thin film on a surface. The proper coating provides better compatibility between the particle and the dispersion medium, which ultimately improves aesthetics and decreases processing costs. Further, coating tray reduce any potential photo reactivity of the metal oxides.
  • 29. SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (SPF) The term "sun protection factor" was adopted by the FDA to describe the effectiveness of sunscreens. 4 SPF is a measure that indicates how long it takes for UV rays to redden protected skin (ie., skin with a sunscreen) compared to unprotected skin (i.e., skin without a sunscreen). As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases. The effectiveness of a given SPF is measured in terms of redness (medically termed "erythema") that appears on the skin after sun exposure. The amount of UV energy required to produce the first visible redness on the skin is referred to as the minimal erythema dose (MED).
  • 30. As SPF values are determined from the test that measures protection against sunburn caused by UVB radiation, SPF values only indicate a sunscreen's UVB protection. The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of specific wavelength of range of wavelengths which produces the first unambiguous reddening of human skin, 24 hours after exposure. Under constant intensity conditions the total quantity or dose of radiant energy is directly proportional to total time of exposure and hence MEDs are often described as either total energy dose or exposure time at a stated constant energy flux.
  • 31. Depending upon wavelength and intensity of the source of irradiation, an MED time (or dose) can vary from a few minutes (high intensity UVB) to many hours (sun light intensity UVA). Within this range, minor variations will also occur between individual skin types In the Federal Register, SPF is defined as the UV radiation required to produce 1 MED on protected skin after application of 2 mg/cm2 of product divided by the UVR to produce MED on unprotected skin.
  • 32. Sun protection factor (SPF) = Minimal erythema dose with sunscreen Minimal erythema dose without sunscreen
  • 33. Currently, sunscreens in the US are required to carry an SPF value, which informs users how well the product protects against UVB light. The number you see associated with SPF represents the length of time (in minutes) you can theoretically stay out in the sun without burning, multiplied by the corresponding number. For example, a person who would normally start to burn in 10 min could theoretically have 150 min of sun protection with a sunscreen that has an SPF of 15. This is only true in theory, though since SPF is not directly related to the time of solar exposure, but to the amount of solar exposure. Although the amount of solar energy is related to the exposure time, there are other factors that can impact the dose of solar energy.
  • 34. The amount of sunscreen applied also impacts the amount of solar radiation absorbed; more sunscreen results in less solar energy absorption. The amount of 2 mg/cm² is used for SPF effectiveness testing; however, studies show that in reality, users usually use only 20-50% of the amount needed to achieve the labeled SPF, Sunscreens wear off over time; therefore, reapplication frequency is also critical for optimal effectiveness. Physical activities, sweating, and running may rub off the products, while swimming may wash off the product; these conditions shorten the reapplication time. Historically, SPF values have ranged from 2 to greater than 100.
  • 35. This led to the assumption that higher SPF provides significantly better sun protection (ie., SPF 30 being twice as protective as SPF 15). This is not true, however. It has been shown into in vitro tests that SPF 15 sunscreens filter out 93% of UVB rays, while SPF 30 protects against 97% and SPF 50, 98%. The higher the number, the smaller is the difference in terms of UVB protection. The SPF value refers to the amount of solar exposure against which the sunscreen provides protection and not the length of solar exposure you can have without getting sunburn.
  • 36. Sun Protection Factor Classification Protection level Low protection- 15 Medium protection- 20 High protection- 25 Very high protection- 50+
  • 37. SKINCARE 1. ALOE Aloe vera has been used for a host of purposes since the ancient Egyptians called "plant of immortality" also known as Ghritkumari in Hindi. Kalabandain Telugu, Katralal in Tamil ,Kumarijn Malayalam an perform miracles not just for your skin but for your hair and health as well. Aloe vera is a common plant that was originally native to the hot and health the Arabian Peninsula. Nowadays the plant genus Aloe incorporates over different species that are grown and cultivated all over the world.
  • 38. Aloe vera is distinguished by its dark green, often grey, leaves that can grow to be anywhere from 20 to 100cm . The plant has triangular, fleshy leaves with serrated edges, yellow tubular flowers and fruther the contain numerous seeds. Each leaf is composed of three layers:
  • 39. An inner clear gel that contains 99% water and rest is made of glucomannans, acids, lipids, sterols and vitamins. The middle layer of latex which is the bitter yellow sap and contains anthraquinones and glycosides. The outer thick layer of 15-20 cells called as rind which has protective function ang synthesizes carbohydrates and proteins. Inside the rind are vascular bundles responsible for transportation of substances such as water (xylem) and steam (phloem).
  • 40. Different aloe vera varieties produce different kinds of leaves, with some being smooth an fleshy, whilst others feature prominent, white-tipped spines. Despite the popularity that a plant contain today's society, this is not a recent phepines. Despite the pes of the ale v so versatile and huge variety of different nutrients, hemmenon. The leave mes that make beneficial to human health. These include: Vitamins A, B, C, D and E, Vitamin B12 (aloe vera is one of only a few plants to contain this nutrient) Copper, Magnesium, Potassium, Zinc, Calcium, Chromium, Manganese, Sodium
  • 41. Over 75 different compounds have been found within aloe vera that is regularly exploited by a variety of different industries to maximise the nutritional content of their products. Since then, its uses have become more targeted and medicinal, and it's one of the leading therapies for sunburns. Aloe vera is a cactus plant that belongs to the Liliaceae family. It grows in dry climates such as those found in parts of Africa and India and has been used medicinally for centuries.
  • 42. Aloe leaves secrete a clear gel that when broken off from the rest of the plant that can be applied topically to heal wounds and soothe skin. Various studies have been conducted to examine the benefits of the aloe vera plant and it was found out that aloe vera does in fact have several properties that are effective in treating a variety of skin conditions, from flaky or dry skin, cosmetic ailments, hair and scalp problems to many more. It is also said to be useful in treating wounds and burns, minor skin infections, cysts, diabetes, and elevated blood lipids in humans, and shows some promise in treating more serious and persistent conditions such as eczema, genital herpes, dandruff, psoriasis, canker sores, skin ulcers and others.
  • 43. Benefits of Aloe Vera 1. It treats sunburn Aloe vera helps with sunburn through its powerful healing activity at the epithelial level of the skin, a layer of cells that cover the body. It acts as a protective layer on the skin and helps replenish its moisture. Because of its nutritional qualities and antioxidant properties, the skin heals quicker.
  • 44. 2. It acts as a moisturizer Aloe moisturizes the skin without giving it a greasy feel, so it is perfect for anyone with an oily skin complexion. For women who use mineral based make up, aloe vera acts as a moisturizer and is great for the face prior to the application to prevents skin drying. For men aloe vera gel can be used as an aftershave treatment as its healing properties can treat small cuts caused by shaving. The aloe vera gel features cooling properties that can be soothing for skin that has been exposed to the sun for a long period of time. In general, aloe can be used to reduce skin irritation and inflammations such as acne and eczema.
  • 45. 3. It treats acne Acne is a skin disease that is caused when pores on your body become clogged with cells, toxins and/or bacteria. These areas can begin to exhibit symptoms like blackheads whiteheads, spots and even oily skin. Aloe vera, given its anti microbial properties, is the used as a facial herbal remedy to help heal blemishes and scars that may be created result of acne. Aloe vera is a rich natural source of vitamin C, which can help with production of collagen, an important protein that can be found in the skin and connective tissues. Collagen helps to ensure that skin cells remain supple, firm and song, which help to combat spots and acne, may be a beneficial addition skincare treatment
  • 46. Aloe vera gel contains two hormones: Auxin and Gibberellins. These two hormones provide wound healing and anti-inflammatory properties that reduce skin inflammation. Gibenla in aloe vera acts as a growth hormone stimulating the growth of new cells. It allows the sid to heal quickly and naturally with minimal scarring. Aloe is soothing and can reduce skin inflammations, blistering and itchiness, while helping the skin to heal more rapid Additionally, in Ayurvedic medicine, Aloe is used to effectively heal chronic skin problems such as psoriasis, acne and eczema.
  • 47. 4. It fights aging Aloe vera may be able to help promote the production of collagen to help keep skin healthy Without sufficient collagen you may begin to see your skin sag, wrinkle and age fastet. Ad vera skin creams, gels and supplements might be able to help counter these different derms known to play of the diverse nutritional content they possess. Vitamin C play a role in collagen production, so increasing your intake of this nutrition to help the use or ingestion of aloe vera products or supplements may be an ideal so to boost anti ageing efforts.
  • 48. 5. It lessens the visibility of stretch marks The skin is like one big piece of elastic that will expand and contract as needed accommodate growth. But if the skin stretches too far, too fast (due to pregnancy cars weight gain or loss) the elasticity of the skin can be damaged. That is what leaves those unsightly stretch marks. These marks appear due be damaged. Tin the layers of the skin caused by sudden and excessive stretching. Aloe vera gel can help hide these stretch marks by healing these wounds,
  • 49. Aloe is rich in vitamins It has polysaccharides that give hydrating, anti-inflammatory benefits and allow for aloe to give a protective barrier on the skin. Aloe also has phytosterols which help to soothe itchiness and irritation while also giving protection to prevent TEWL (trans- epidermal water loss). Aloe vera gel has bioactive compounds in the plant that are rich in vitamins A, B, C, D and E as well as minerals like magnesium, potassium and zinc. These are all thought to aid in the healing benefits of aloe.
  • 50. 7.Aloe is perfect for skincare Aloe vera soap and gel come loaded with several nutrients like glycerin, sodium palmate, sodium carbonate, sodium palm kemelate, sorbitol. These are good for the skin and nourish your skin from within, giving you the skin that glows with health. Aloe vera gel can be fill into ice cube trays and freeze. Then, whenever needs a source of cooling relief, can easily grab one and rub onto the inflamed area.
  • 51. The esthetician also claims some people use aloe vera gel for shaving their legs. Due to the consistency of a gel, it will hug' the skin nicely so a razor can go over the skin easily without causing irritation. Plus, aloe vera will be significantly more hydrating and conditioning to the skin than a traditional shaving foam or bar soap.
  • 52. 3. Effects on skin exposure to UV and gamma radiation Aloe vera gel has been reported to have a protective effect against radiation damage to the slan Exact role is not known, but following the administration of aloe vera gel, an antioxidant protein, metallothionein, is generated in the skin, which scavenges hydroxyl radicals and prevents suppression of superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase in the skin. It reduces the production and release of skin keratinocyte derived immunosuppressive cytokines such as interleukin-10 (IL-10) and hence prevents UV induced suppression of delayed type hypersensitivity.
  • 53. 9. Healing properties Be it psoriasis or eczema, blisters or bites, aloe vera's antiallergenic properties can help heal them. Aloe is most commonly used as a topical treatment for cuts, burns and other wounds and with good reason. 10. Helps in getting radiant skin It is very effective in ridding your body of dead skin cells and replenishing it with new ones. This, in turn, gives skin a healthy glow. 11. Used for tan removal It can help restore the natural colour of skin if it has been tanned.
  • 54. 12. Gives softer lips Using an aloe vera based lip balm can really help soothe chapped lips, making them soft supple. 13. Softens feet Aloe vera gel scrubs help exfoliate your skin and make them smooth and soft.
  • 55. TURMERIC Turmeric has also been used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine, which integrates medicinal properties of herbs with food. This extraordinary herb has found its way indo spotlight in the west and rest of globe, because of its wide range of medicinal benefits. Used turmeric dates back nearly 4000 years to the Vedic culture in India. It is extensively used in Ayurveda, Unani and Siddha medicine as home remedy for various diseases. Turmeric derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa, (family- Zingiberaceae) is a perennial plant having short stem with large oblong leaves, and bears ovate, pyriform or oblong rhizome which are often branched and brownish-yellow in colour.
  • 56. Turmeric a native of South-Ea Asia, is used as a food additive (spice), preservative and colouring agent in Asian countries including China, Bangladesh and South East Asia. It is primarily cultivated in Chin Taiwan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Burma (Myanmar), Nigeria, Australia, West Indies. Per Jamaica and some other Caribbean and Latin American countries. Accounting for about 78 percent of world turmeric production, India is the largest product of turmeric. It is also the biggest consumer and exporter of turmeric. Turmeric also known 'Haridra' or 'Haldi', turmeric contains protein (6.3%), fat (5.1%), minerals (3.552 Carbohydrates (69.4%) and moisture (23.1%) The essen), dat (5.1%), mined by steam distillation of rhizomes has a-phellanderene (1%), sabielle (58%) obtains), (0.5%), zingiberene (25%) and sesquiterpines (53%).
  • 57. Curcumin is the principal curcuminoid turmeric gives yellower two are desmethoxycurcumin and bisdesmethoxycurcumin. Curcumin gives yellow colour to turmeric and is now recognized as being responsible for most of the therapeutic effects. Although its ability to preserve food through its antioxidant mechanism, to give colour to fed and to add taste to the food is well known, its health promoting effects are less well noognized or appreciated.
  • 58. It was once considered a cure for jaundice, an appetite suppressant and a digestive. In Indian and Chinese medicines, turmeric was used as anti- inflammatory agents to treat gas, colic, toothaches, chest pains, and menstrual difficulties. This spice was also used to help with stomach and liver problems, to heal wounds and lighten scars and as a cosmetic.
  • 59. BENEFITS OF TURMERIC 1. Protects from sun damage In a 2009 animal study, researchers applied turmeric extract to skin that had been damaged by long-term, low-dose ultraviolet radiation. They found that it protected the skin from UV rays, prevented the formation of wrinkles, helped retain skin elasticity, and reduced the appearance of dark spots. 2 years later, a study mixed turmeric extract into a skin cream, and then applied it to skin for six weeks. Results showed that the cream protected against the sun, and also improved the skin's ability to naturally moisturize itself. The researchers suggested that the extract could be incorporated into sunscreen formulas.
  • 60. 2. Helps reduce acne Turmeric appears to have natural oil controlling properties. In 2013, researchers evaluated cream with turmeric extract on acne sufferers. They first evaluated the amount of oil, or sebum, on the skin of the volunteers. They then gave some the cream with the turmeric, and others a cream without turmeric. Results showed that those using the regular cream actually experienced an increase in skin sebum (more oil production) starting the sixth week of the study.
  • 61. Those using the turmeric cream, on the other hand, experienced a reduction in skin oil starting in the fourth week of use, and that reduction reached 25 percent by the end of the study period (10 weeks). Research is still new in this area but if you have oily skin that frequently breaks out, try adding turmeric extract to your homemade masks to see if it helps. If you are using the powder, be sure to mix it with other ingredients, as otherwise it may, over time, leave a yellow stain on your skin.
  • 62. 3. Reduces risk of skin cancer Here is another reason manufacturers would be wise to add turmeric to sunscreens-it has anti-cancer activity. Many studies show that this natural ingredient helps slow the growth of cancer cells, and even shrinks tumors. A few studies have looked at skin cancer, in particular. In 2011, for example, researchers pretreated mice with curcumin extract for three days. They then injected skin cancer cells into the treated areas, and measured the resting tumors.
  • 63. Results showed that in the control mice, tumor volume increased 2.3 times faster than in the mice that received the 15 mg curcumin extract. Researchers concluded that curcumin Inhibits the growth of skin cancer cells, and blocks tumor progression. An earlier 2 study found similar results, with curcumin killing and stopping the growth of melanin skin cancer cells as melanoma is the most deadly form of skin cancer.
  • 64. 4. Helps heal wounds Turmeric has a long history of being a wound-healer. Whether one was to suffer a bru insect bite, infected wound, or even mouth inflammation, a turmeric salve or paste was the answer. Modern research has confirmed this is a good idea. Turmeric paste was jull effective as honey in healing wounds, helping skin to heal faster than it would have without the application of either substance. An earlier 1999 study compared turmeric with coconut oil and a control, and found that turmeric was more effective at helping the wound to clog and heal.
  • 65. The curcumin found in turmeric can help wounds heal by decreasing inflammation and oxidation. It also lowers the response of your body to cutaneous wounds. This results in your wounds healing more quickly. Studies have found that turmeric can positively affect tissue and collagen as well. The journal Life Sciences recommends applying curcumin as an optimized formula to best work on skin wounds. In 2011, researchers assessed the use of a topical curcumin solution on burn wounds, and found it to be just as effective as the standard drug used on bums silver sulfadiazine.
  • 66. In 2012, researchers tried curcumin patches on wounds and found that not only did it improve healing time, but it also helped the skin repair itself, encouraging the production of collagen and promoting tissue regeneration. 5. Helps treat psoriasis Curcumin has a natural anti-inflammatory action, which we now know can help treat the symptoms of psoriasis. Patients with psoriasis have elevated PhK, a particular type of protein associated with the disease. In 2000, researchers found that curcumin inhibit the activity of PhK with a corresponding decrease in the severity of psoriasis symptoms.
  • 67. Some studies have also found that oral curcumin may also be helpful. In 2008, researchers reported that after giving 12 patients with psoriasis 4.5 grams a day of oral curcuminoid C3 comples, two of them showed an 83-88 percent improvement in their symptoms. Researchers suggested that larger studies may show more significant results. Researchers gave oral curcumin 30 patients with psoriasis, and another 30 received a placebo. Results showed that the curcumin cut levels of inflammation in the blood by half, and improved symptoms
  • 68. 6. Delays the appearance of aging Turmeric contains potent antioxidants known to protect cells against free radical destruction Researchers reported that curcumin protect cells from asidant damage linked with Alzheimer's disease and that it did so in a way linked to preserving long life. An earlier 2010 study also reported that curcumin could be a useful anti- aging substance. Not only does it potentially reduce the risk of many of today's deadly diseases, including heart disease, cancer, and Alzheimer's, it may improve the health status of the elderly because of its powerful anti-inflammatory properties.
  • 69. Curcumin can counteract the pro-inflammatory state and believed to participate in many age related diseases. It makes sense that topical application of turmeric may also help delay the appearance of aging on the skin. Researchers applied a cream with both turmeric and niacinamide in it (niacinamide is a form of vitamin B used in many facial creams), or a cream with just niacinamide, to groups of women aged 40 to 60.
  • 70. They found that after eight weeks, those using the cream with both the turmeric and the niacinamide experienced a 15 percent improvement in fine lines and wrinkles over those using the cream with the niacinamide alone. In a second study, women aged 25 to 55 were able to reduce the appearance of age spots by an average of 15 percent after eight weeks of using a cream with turmeric twice daily.
  • 71. 7. Fades hyperpigmentation The spice seems to be able to affect melanin, which is the substance in skin responsible for pigmentation. If you have melasma, you have too much melanin on your cheeks, chin, and forehead. Age spots are also created by too much melanin in one place. The curcumin in turmeric seems to block the activation of proteins that increase and regulate melanin production. Researchers found that curcumin extract not only protected from UV rays, but also prevented the formation of pigmentation caused by UV radiation. In 2013 study looked at the ability of curcumin to inhibit tyrosinase, which is an enzyme involved in the production of melanin.
  • 72. They found that it did indeed inhibit the activity of the enzyme at a level comparable to other ingredients used in common products that help prevent hyperpigmentation. Another study also compared a cream containing curcumin against a cream with four percent hydroquinone (a common lightening ingredient) in 50 human subjects, and found that while both showed comparable lightening effects after four weeks, the hydroquinone cream caused mild to moderate adverse effects, while the curcumin cream did not.
  • 73. 8. Scabies Treatment Scabies is a condition caused by microscopic mites that leave a rash in the skin. It was found that a combination of turmeric and neem, a plant native to India, was effective in treating scabies.