1.tests and testing for colouring hair
- 1. Tests and Testing • Skin Test • Elasticity Test • Porosity Test • Strand Test • Incompatibility Test • Test Cutting
- 2. SKIN TESTING THERE ARE 2 REASONS WHY WE SKIN TEST 1. to get a result – Para content in tint 2 .as a duty to care There are 2 types of reactions 1. Allergic 2. Irritant
- 3. Irritant • Client may be sensitive to an ingredient or the product you are applying • They can also have an irritant reaction to the smell of the product • This is an external reaction • It is confined to the area product is applied to
- 4. Allergic reaction • It is only as a formality we check for an allergic reaction • Allergic reaction can occur at anytime • Takes up to 24-48 hours to occur • This is a severe reaction • The immune system starts to fight • Antibodies change shape and swell
- 5. Allergic reaction • Blisters on the skin taking several weeks to heal • Anaphylactic shock- severest reaction DEATH
- 6. Allergic reaction to hair colour
- 7. Allergic reaction to hair colour
- 10. How do we skin test • Each company have their own way of testing • Always follow manufacturers guidelines • Wella-Mix a small amount of colour with peroxide and place behind ear with cotton bud • Inform client that it must stay on for the next 24-48 hrs and of the type of reaction that may occur if there is an allergy
- 11. Symptoms • Hot spots • Heat • Stinging • This is due to blood capillaries been aggravated in the dermis • If this type of reactions occur you must remove the product immediately • By not skin testing we are open to being sued and permanent damage to your business
- 12. Elasticity test • Purpose is to check the hairs internal strength • Hair in good condition can hold a 100gms in weight • Hair in poor condition can hold only 30gms in weight • Hair which is in poor condition will not hold colour well as there is to much space in the cortex • Hair in poor conditioned is known as sensitised hair
- 13. Elasticity test • To perform an elasticity test • Take a few strands of hair and stretch between fingers • Hair in good condition will stretch and return • Hair in poor condition will not return
- 14. Porosity test • 2 types of porous hair • Naturally porous hair • Chemically /physically porous • Purpose of the test is to check the hairs ability to absorb moisture in varying degrees • Condition of the cuticle- EXTERNAL DAMAGE • If the hair is externally damaged the effect is on the outside • Cuticle scales could be broken or missing
- 15. Incompatibility test • We are looking for a reaction due to metallic salts being present in the hair • Compound henna, some colour sticks, sun in • These products can contain metallic salts which can have an adverse reaction to professional products
- 16. Incompatibility Test • If no test was carried you could jeopardise the condition of the hair • Breakage or complete disintegration • If client has used home colour ALWAYS carry out an incompatibility test • To test- take cuttings of hair from various areas of the head • Place in an non metallic bowl with 20ml of 20vol liquid + 1ml ammonia solution
- 17. Incompatibility • Leave for 3-5 mins • Look for signs of bubbling attracting along the hair shaft • Fizzing , heat, discolouration of hair, disintegration of hair • If any of these reactions occur never proceed with colour
- 18. Colour Test or Test Cutting • Test cutting – done prior to colouring to check if colour result will be even or will be achievable • Will the hair tolerate the service • To perform the test apply your chosen colour to various cuttings from round the head (discreet areas) • Develop for full development time • Rinse, dry and check
- 19. Colour Test / Test Cutting • Negative Result • When the desired colour is not achieved or unsuitable for client • DO NOT PROCEED WITH COLOUR SERVICE • Positive Result • When the desired colour has been achieved and is suitable for the client • PROCEED WITH COLOUR SERVICE
- 20. Strand test • This test is performed during the colouring process • Ideally to check the lightening on bleaching and tones when using toner • Remove a piece of colour using damp cotton wool • If colour achieved rinse and remove colour • If colour not achieved massage product back into area removed from and further develop