Basic weaves

Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets
of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
The majority of woven products are created with one of three
Basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill.
INTRODUCTION

A weave may be characterized by its repeat unit. Basic weaves are those
that require a minimum number of warp and weft yarns to constitute their repeat
units, e.g. plain weave needs just 2 warp and 2 weft yarns. Twill weave needs 3 warp
and 3 weft yarns while satin weave needs a minimum of 5 warp and 5 weft yarns.
The classification of weaves are,
1. Plain weave
2. Twill weave
3. Satin weave
4. Basket weave
CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVES

CHARACTERISTICS
Weave Structure Properties Typical Fabric
Plain
Each weft passes alternatively
over and under each warp in a
square pattern
Easily produced, inexpensive,
durable and adaptable dyeing,
printing and finishing.
Batiste, Cheesecloth,
Cretonne, Gingham,
Parcel, Voil.
Basket
Two or more warps
simultaneously interlaced with one
or more weft.
Inexpensive, drapable,
resilient, absorbent, soils more
easily.
Monk's cloth, Oxford,
Ribbed
Plain weave with wales or cords in
warp or weft.
Drapes well, durability affected
by pronounced rips, yarn
slippage.
Bengaline, broadcloth,
poplin,
Twill
Warp or weft floats over two or
more counterpart yarns in
progressively stepped up right or
left direction.
Srong, increased drapability,
flexible resilient, and lustrous.
Chevot, denim, drill,
fabardine, serge,
tweed,

Satin Four or more shaft with warp floats in interrupted diagonal,
Lustrous, excrllent drapability, floated
fashion.
Sateen Four or more shafts with weft floats in interrupted Similar to Satin
Crepe Combination of plain and satin or Sateen weaves.
Irregular, industinct pattern, textured
surface.
Pile
Extra set of warps or wefts woven over ground yarns of plain or
twill weave to form loops.
Soft, warm, resilient, absorbent,
interesting surface effects,
Cut Pile Pile Loops cut As Pile
Uncut Pile Pile loops intact As Pile

Double cloth
Two fabrics of independent weaves
woven together with extra set of yarns.
Strong Warm, bulky
Blanket, coatings,
upholstery
Leno
Pairs of warps twisted over each other
with each passing of weft
Open mesh, sheer but
durable for its weight.
Grenadine, marquisette.
Swivel
Small designs interwoven on surface of
fabric with extra weft yarn insertion.
Attractive design yarns tend
to roughness on back side.
Dotted swiss, Madras
Lappet
Small designs, stitched into fabric
during weaving.
Attractive designs are more
durable than swivel
Madras, Grenadine.
Dobby
Small, geometric designs composed of
short floats created by dobby loom
attachment.
Attractive generally good
body.
Hukaback, Granite cloth,
Pique.
Jacquard
Any combination of weaves and patterns
possible since each warp is individually
controlled with each pick passage.
Attractive, drapes well. Brocade, damask, tapestry.
Triaxial
Three yarns construction at various
angles
Strong, stable, minimum
stretch.
Industrial uses and home
furnishings,

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave. It is the
simplest of all weaves
having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this weave is wide.
The plain weave has the following characteristics :
(i) It has the maximum number of binding points
(ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
(iii) The thread density is limited
(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple
combination of
threads, excepting that of “gauze”or “cross weaving”.
PLAIN WEAVE

The principle involved in the construction of plain cloth is the
interlacement of any two continuous
threads either warp or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each other, with
every thread in each series
passing alternately under and over consecutive threads of other series interlaces
uniformly throughout
the fabric. By this plan of interlacement, every thread in each series interlaces
with every thread in the
other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing a comparatively firm
and strong texture of cloth.

MODIFICATION OF PLAIN WEAVE
The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft
way or both. The extension of the plain
weave thus produces a rib effect. A warp rib results from extending the
plain weave in the warp direction
and a weft rib structure results from extending the plain weave in the
weft direction. A matt rib results
from extending the plain weave in both directions.
The chart below shows the derivatives/modifications of plain weave :

WARP RIB WEAVE
These are produced by extending the plain weave in warp wary direction. Warp rib
weaves constructed on regular and irregular basis.
At A, B and C are seen regular warp rib weaves and at D, is shown the
irregular warp rib weave. E and Fshow the interlacing of D and A
respectively.

WEFT RIB WEAVE
In both the warp and weft rib weaves, the appearance of the cloth depends on the
respective thread settings, and to achieve good effects, it is necessary to weave a
weft rib with a high number of picks per inch and a comparatively low number of
ends per inch. Similarly the warp rib effect can be enhanced with a high number
of ends per inch and a comparatively low number of picks per inch. The
prominence of the rib can be increased by suitable use of coarse and fine yarns.
The dependence of all rib constructions upon the correct thread settings is
marked.

The typical constructional particulars for a weft rib structure is given
below:
Warp - 2/14s & 36s
Ends/inch - 56
Weft - 18s
Picks/inch - 100
The typical constructional particulars for a warp rib structure is
given below:
Warp - 30s cotton
Ends/inch - 126
Weft - 15s cotton
Picks/inch - 38

Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp
cloth which is extensively employed
for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering
furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.
USES

MATT RIB WEAVE
These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or basket weaves.
The matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions.
In case of regular matt weave, the plain weaves are extended equally in the warp
and weft directions, where as in case of irregular matt weaves, the plain weave is
extended unevenly or irregularly in the warp and weft directions.

TWILL WEAVES
Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be
constructed in a variety
of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is
the presence of
pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.
The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :
(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.
(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth
(iv) Better cover than plain weave
(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

The twill weaves are produced in a wide variety of forms. They are
however classified broadly into
important categories, namely :
(i) Ordinary or continuous twills
(ii) Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
(iii) Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
(iv) Combination twills
(v) Broken twills
(vi) Figured and other related twill weaves
CLASSIFICATION OF TWILL WEAVE

(RHT) is the most common and can be easily identified by the diagonal
pattern that moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right. This style was
made also famous by Levi’s and has become the industry standard amongst many
denim producers.
Right hand twill, or “Z-twill”, has a flatter and smoother surface than the
other types of twill. One differentiating characteristic is how much tighter and compact
the RHT is due to being woven with S-twist yarn; which is spun counterclockwise, and
creates more defined fades.
RIGHT HAND TWILL

Conversely, Left hand twill (LHT) or “S-twill”, is woven in the exact opposite
direction as RHT, starting from the bottom right and moving up to the top left of the
fabric.
Denim powerhouse, Lee, originally used LHT, which has an even softer feel than
right hand twill because it is woven with Z-twist yarn, which is spun clockwise. If a
left hand twill denim is worn heavily over a period of time, the end results typically
carry fuzzy, vertical fading.
LEFT HAND TWILL

HERRING BONE TWILL WEAVE
In the case of these twills, the twill is reversed as in the case of pointed twills.
However, the pointed
effect is broken. This type of construction produces a distinct stripe effect and
also prevents the
formation of an extended float where the weave turns. In this aspect the
herringbone twills are considered
to be more advantageous than the pointed twills.
A typical example of herringbone twill is shown in Fig

SATIN AND SATEEN WEAVES:
Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill. Thus
satin is the reverse side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of
weaves. They are used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of
ornamented fabrics. The striking feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and
smooth feel.
The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are :
•They are either warp or weft faced weaves.
•Have no prominent weave structures.
•Only one binding point in each end or pick
•No continuous twill lines
•Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
•More thread density is possible in warp and weft
•More mass per unit area is possible
•Have less binding points and more float lengths
•Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves.

Regular and Irregular satin weaves
A, B and C show the different types of irregular satins and Figs. D and E show the
designs of regular satin. Fig. A shows a 4 end irregular satin constructed by using a
step number of 1, while Fig. B show the same satin constructed using step number of
2. Fig. D shows a 5 end regular satin constructed with a step number of 3 and Fig. E
shows an 8 end regular satin constructed with a
step number of 3. Fig. F and G shows the corresponding interlacing of designs D
and A respectively.

Figs. A, B and C show the design of irregular sateen
weaves and Figs. D and E show regular sateen design.
Fig. A shows a 4 end irregular sateen constructed with the
step number of 1 and Fig. B shows the same design using
the step number of 2.
Fig. C shows a 6 end irregular sateen. Fig. D and E
show the designs of a regular 5 end and 8 end sateen
constructed with step number of 3.
Fig. F and G show the interlacing of design D and A
respectively.
Regular and irregular sateen
weaves

TABLE SHOWING SUITABLE MOVE NUMBERS FOR THE
CONSTRUCTION OF SATIN WEAVES:

STRIPE AND CHECK EFFECT ON SATIN/ SATEEN WEAVES
By a combination of suitable identical satin-sateen designs, stripe and check effects
can be produced.
Satin-sateen stripes Satin-sateen checks

Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as denim, interlining cloth,
ribbons, dress materials
(lustrous), children’s dress materials etc.
END USES OF SATIN AND SATEEN WEAVE

Basic weaves

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Basic weaves