Chocobo plush-sewing-pattern

a free sewing pattern by
CHOCOBO
plush

2
sew desu ne?
| www.cholyknight.com |
// ©2018 Choly Knight // Items made using this pattern may be sold. Credit to “Choly Knight” or “Sew Desu Ne?” is appreciated.
You may not reproduce, share, freely distribute, or sell this pattern as your own in digital or printed form.
chocobo plush free sewing tutorial
chocobo plushKweh! Final Fantasy fans are sure to love this
chibi version of the classic rideable bird. It
has a large head, a prominent beak and a big
feather head crest. The body is weighted for
balance and has two tucked wings, tiny feet,
and a cute spiked tail.
difficulty:
The head of the plush calls for a y-seam,
which is tricky to those unfamiliar. And
attaching the head might be difficult to those
not used to the ladder stitch.
makes:
One plush: about 7" tall, 6" long,
and 4" wide.
skills used:
• Fusible web applique
• Sewing inner curves to outer curves,
• Basting
• Y-seams
• Sewing small pieces
• Ladder stitch
sew desu ne?

3
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suggested fabrics:
Plush, stretchy fabrics such as fleece or minky
are suggested. The variations of fleece and minky
mentioned to the left would work well, but really
any plushy fabric with a bit of stretch on the cross-
wise grain would be well-suited.
Stretch fabrics like fleece or minky will create
a more squat, round shape when stuffed.
Non-stretchy fabrics, like felt or cotton, won’t
stretch when stuffed so the resulting plush will look
elongated as shown.
anti-pill fleece
fleece
micro fleece
cuddle fleece
minky
faux fur
minky feltvs.
materials & tools:
• ¼ yd. of fabric for main body
• ⅛ yd. of fabric for beak and feet
• 4" x 8" piece of scrap fabric for bean pouch
• 3” x 3" piece of white applique fabric (felt,
cotton, etc.) for eyes and eye shines
• 3” x 3” piece of blue or accent applique fabric
for irises
• 2" x 2" piece of pink applique fabric for blush
• 4” x 4” piece of light or heavy duty fusible web
• sewing thread to match main fabric and
applique fabrics
• poly-fil stuffing
• poly pellets or beans for weight
• basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors,
iron, needles, pins, fabric marker, seam ripper)

4
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printing the pattern:
To print the pattern, set your computer to print pages 18-20. If you’re unfamiliar with printing
and assembling a .pdf pattern, read the steps below.
1
3
You can trace the patterns onto a different paper,
or you can also just cut them straight from the
printer paper. They might be a little hard to pin
through, so you might want to use your longest
pins. But you could also use pattern weights or
trace the outlines onto the fabric with a washable
marker and cut them out from there.
2
Print the pages needed for the file. You might have
one or more. Either way, be sure you have the
full collection by noting the page numbers in the
corner.
At the print dialog box, check the box that says
print at “Actual Size” or 100%. Any other selection
(such as “Fit to page”) will distort the pattern so it’s
slightly larger or smaller and we don’t want that.

5
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before you begin:
• Briefly read the project instructions so you know what to expect.
• If desired, mark the cut fabric pieces with the markings and symbols from the pattern. Or wait
until the applicable step before transferring.
• Note that the seam allowance used is ¼” throughout the project.
A A
F
F F
F
G G
H H
D
J J J J E B B
C C
CC
I
II
cutting the fabric:
main body fabric
beak fabric main body fabric
38” wide
23” wide
8” wide
cutting layout:
¼yd.;9”long
⅛yd.
4"long
STRETCH
STRETCH
NAPNAP
2 3 41
Place pattern on the fabric,
and make sure the stretch
line matches the stretch
of the fabric. The nap line
should go in the direction of
the fur.
Pin the pattern in place, use
pattern weights, or trace the
outline of the pattern with a
washable marker.
Using the paper as a
template, cut out the fabric.
Cut the required amount
according to the pattern.
For all fur fabrics, shake the
excess fuzz away.

6
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a. Take your fusible web and trace all your applique pieces onto the smooth (paper) side. You should
have 2 eyes, 2 irises, 2 eye shines, and 2 blush marks.
b. Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. The eyes and eye shines
go onto white, the blush onto pink, and the irises onto blue (or your color of choice).
c. Cut out the eye pieces and arrange them on the head side (A) piece. Set your paper pattern on top
of the fabric piece (right sides up), align the eye piece on top where the placement markings are, then
carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique piece in place.
a. Tuck the blush pieces under the eyes, then fuse the eye pieces in place with your iron (use a press
cloth -- such as a scrap piece of cotton -- if you’re using a polyester or fur fabric like minky).
b. Next, move onto the iris and eye shine pieces. Fuse them much the same way as you did the eyes,
using the paper pattern and photos as a guide.
c. If you used heavy duty fusible web, you can keep the pieces fused without sewing, or you can sew
them in place a number of ways. I’ve used a zigzag stitch here.
→→ Refer to the next step for some other applique options.
1. prepare the face applique
2.fuse the applique
fuse eyes
first
add smaller pieces next
sew around
edge of
applique
trace onto
paper side
fuse onto
applique fabric
hold applique
while pulling
paper away

7chocobo plush free sewing tutorial
sew desu ne?
Other good options for applique include a straight stitch, which involves sewing around the edge of the
applique pieces with a straight stitch using matching thread -- about 1/8” in from the edge.
You can also applique by hand; I prefer a whipstitch. Thread a hand-sewing needle with some matching
thread and knot it. Bring the thread up from the back of the project; about 1/8” in from the edge of the
applique shape. Bring it down perpendicular from the curve, just outside of the applique shape. This
completes one stitch.
For the next stitch, bring the needle back up about 1/8” away from the previous stitch and 1/8” in from
the edge just as in the first stitch. Once again, bring it down just outside the applique shape. Continue
this way until you’ve sewn around the shape.
2a.other applique options
straight stitch;
great for felt
applique
whipstitch 1
2
3
4
a. Grab your beak side piece (B). To be sure you attach the right edge, locate the notch marking on the
beak and head side (A) pieces.
b. Align the notched edge of the beak with that of the head side. Stretch the head side to fit around the
curve of the beak. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the fabrics together along this edge.
Once complete, repeat with the remaining head side and beak side pieces.
3.sew the beak side
line up
notched edges
of head & beak
stretch head
to fit around
beak

8
sew desu ne?
a. Grab your feather pieces (C). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the feathers around the pointed edges, leaving the short straight edge free for turning right side
out.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance at the inner and outer corners of the feathers to reduce bulk and
increase flexibility when the feathers are turned. Repeat with the remaining two feather pieces for two
complete tufts total.
a. Turn the feathers right side out through the opening you left before.
b. If you haven't already, locate the feather placement lines located on the
paper pattern for the head sides (A). Transfer them over to the right
side of the fabric. Align the open end of the feather tuft within these
lines. Mine have the larger feather pointing toward the front of the head,
but either way looks fine.
c. Baste the feather to the head side within the seam allowance. Repeat for
the other head side and the other feather tuft.
4.sew the feather tuft
5.baste the feather tuft
leave open
for turning
trim inner and
outer corners
align within
placement lines repeat for both
head sides
basting:
A form of temporary
sewing meant to hold pieces
in place. A long stitch length is
often used for this reason. The
finished result is not meant
to be seen and sometimes
is even removed later
(depending on your
project).

sew desu ne?
a. Grab your head bottom (D) and beak bottom (E) pieces. Locate the single-notched edges of both
pieces. These are the edges that will be matched up next.
b. Stretch the notched edge of the head bottom piece to fit along the beak. Pin the edges together.
c. Sew the two fabrics together along the notched edge.
a. With the head side and bottom sewn, you can finally attach the two. If you haven't already, locate the
circle markings found on the paper pattern for the head side and bottom. This is where the head side
will match up with the back corner of the head bottom.
b. Bend the head side to fit around the curved edge of the head bottom. The seam from the beak should
match up as well as the circle marking at the corner of the bottom. Make sure the feather is tucked
inside. Pin the fabrics together.
c. Sew the head side to the bottom along this edge. Try to stop at the circle point exactly and go no
further. This will make future steps easier.
6.sew the head bottom & beak
7.sew the head side to the bottom
line up
notched
edges
stretch head
bottom to fit
match
up circle
markings
match
up beak
seams
stop sewing at
circle marking

10
sew desu ne?
a. Repeat the same process for the other head side (A) piece on the other curved edge of the head
bottom (D).
b. Line up the edge of the head side that has the feather attached and match up the circle markings. For
an even better finish, match up the beak seams as well.
c. Sew this edge of the head pieces. For the best result, your seam should start and end exactly at the
points you started and ended in step 7. There should be no gap, and ideally no overlap either.
a. After sewing the sides and bottom, this just leaves the top of the head free. Line up the free edges of
the head side pieces. Match up the jagged edges that make the head crest as well as the beak seams.
b. Sew from the point of the beak around the back of the head, and back down to the circle marking
from steps 7 & 8. For the best results, start and stop your seam at the ends of your previous seams.
c. Trim the excess seam allowance around the inner and outer corners of the head. This will reduce bulk
and increase flexibility when the head is turned later.
8.sew the other head side
9.sew the top head seam
match up circle
markings
line up
top edge
seam ends at beak
point & circle marking
trim seam
allowance at
corners
match
up beak
seams
stop sewing at
circle marking

sew desu ne?
a. Turn the head right side out
through the opening in the
head bottom. Define the
points in the back of the head
with a chopstick or similar
turning tool.
b. Stuff the head through the
opening in the bottom. Be
sure to get plenty of stuffing
in the beak. The back of the
head looks best with very
light stuffing.
a. Grab your wing pieces (F). Take two of them and align them with right sides facing and raw edges
matching up.
b. Sew the wings together along the jagged edge; be sure to pivot at the corners for the best result.
Leave the short straight edge free for turning the wing later.
c. Trim the seam allowance between the inner and outer corners of the wing to reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the wing is turned.
Repeat this with the remaining two wing pieces for two complete wings total.
10.turn and stuff the head
11.sew the wings
keep
stuffing
light near
back
turn right
side out
leave open
for turning
trim seam allowance
at corners

12
sew desu ne?
a. Turn the wings right side out through the opening you left before.
b. If you haven't already, locate the wing placement lines located on the paper pattern for the body (G).
Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric. Align the open end of the wings within these lines.
The sample has the wings with the largest point near the top, but either way looks good as long as it's
consistent.
c. Baste the wings to the body within the seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the body and the
remaining wing.
a. Grab your tail pieces (H). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching up.
b. The points of the tail are a little detailed, so to get the seam line right, use the paper pattern as a
tracing template. Trim away the seam allowance and line up the paper against the wrong side of the
fabric. Trace the seam lines onto the fabric for stitching later.
c. Sew the tail pieces together along the traced edge. Leave the bottom straight edge free for turning the
tail later.
12.baste the wings
13.sew the tail
align wings within
placement lines
baste within
seam allowance
use template to
trace seam lines
leave open
for turning

sew desu ne?
a. Trim the seam allowance between the inner and outer corners of the tail to reduce bulk and increase
flexibility when the tail is turned.
b. Turn the tail right side out. Define the points with a chopstick or similar turning tool.
c. Stuff the tail very lightly with stuffing.
a. Grab your remaining body piece (G). If you haven't already, locate the tail placement lines located on
the paper pattern for the body (G). Transfer them over to the right side of the fabric. Align the open
end of the tail within these lines.
b. Baste the tail to the body within the seam allowance. Push the stuffing out of the way for an easier
time sewing.
c. Grab both of your body pieces. Once should have the wings basted and the other should have the tail.
Line them up with right sides facing and raw edges aligning.
14.turn and stuff the tail
15.baste the tail
trim seam
allowance at
corners
stuff very
lightly
baste within
seam allowance
align both
body pieces

14
sew desu ne?
a. Grab your two bottom pieces (I) from the scrap fabric. Align them both with either side facing and
raw edges matching up. Sew around the perimeter of the pieces, but leave about a 2" opening along
the side for filling the pouch next.
b. Grab a spoon or funnel and fill the pouch with poly pellets until it's a little over half full. Pin the
opening closed so no pellets spill out.
c. Sew the opening closed with a back stitch or whip stitch by hand. If you're more experienced, you can
also do it by machine, but go very slowly and carefully so you don't sew over a pellet. They are very
prone to breaking needles.
17.sew the bean pouch
a. Sew the body (G) pieces together
along the straight edges. The
upper curved edge is for the neck
and the lower edge is for the body
bottom.
b. Grab the bottom piece (I) from
your main fabric. Align the larger
lower opening of the body around
the circle that is the bottom. Make
sure the tail and wings are tucked
inside. Pin the edges together.
c. Sew around the bottom piece to
secure the body. Be sure to sew
slowly and carefully through the
tail.
d. Turn the body right side out.
16.sew the body
a. b.
d.c.
sew sides of
body only
line up body
with bottom
leave open
for filling fill over half
full
machine or
hand-sew closed

sew desu ne?
a. Place the finished pouch at the bottom of the body of the Chocobo so it rests flat.
b. Stuff the rest of the body with stuffing until it's full.
c. Align the head over the body so the openings match up. The back of the head should go in the same
direction as the tail. The front of the head should point between the wings.
Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot it at the end. Insert the needle from the inside of the plush
outward.
a. Ladder stitch the head to the body. Take a ⅛" stitch into the center
back of the body, then take one into the center back of the head. Go
around the neck in this manner until the head is completely secured.
→→ Check the plush from different angles as you go. Be sure that
the head is centered as you stitch around the neck.
b. When you’re finished, stitch a knot into the end of the seam. Then
insert the needle near the finished knot and out of the plush about
1-2” away.
c. Pull the thread through and hold it taut while snipping the thread.
The excess thread should sink back inside the plush -- all hidden!
18.stuff the body
19.attach the head
12
3 seam allowance
(folded inside)
4
place
pouch on
bottom
align head
over body
opening
ladder stitch
around neck
bring needle
out 1-2" away
hold thread taut
while clipping

16
sew desu ne?
a. Grab your feet pieces (J). Take two and align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching
up.
b. Sew around the perimeter of the foot. Be sure to pivot at the corner between the toes.
c. Clip into the seam allowance at the corner between the toes to increase flexibility with the foot is
turned later.
a. To turn the feet, cut a small clip into the 'heel' of the foot, at the base
between the toes. Cut through one layer of the fabric only.
b. Turn the foot right side out through the opening in the base. Stuff the
foot lightly with stuffing.
c. Close up the opening in the foot with a quick whip stitch to keep the
stuffing from spilling out in future steps.
20.sew the feet
21.turn the feet
whip
stitch:
A kind of overhand stitch
where the needle is brought
from the back of the seam to
the front. The thread wraps
around the fabric edge and
the process is repeated
for each stitch.
clip
between
toes
cut through one
layer of fabric only
whip
stitch
closed

sew desu ne?
a. Align the foot at the front of the plush. Place it with the whip stitched side toward the body (so it's
not seen) and flush with the bottom, toes pointing up. They're placed about ½"-1" away from the side
seams, but the paper pattern has guidelines as well.
Hold the feet in place by sticking pins into the base of the foot through the body of the plush.
b. Ladder stitch the feet in place similar to how you did back in step 19. Stitch around the base of the
foot.
c. When you reach the toes, fold them back and stitch from the underside of the shape. This will leave
the toes free. Repeat with the other foot on the other side of the body.
a. You can choose to leave the wings open, or have them folded. For
folded wings, bring the top edge of the wing down so it's parallel
with the side body seam.
b. Sew this top edge of the wing to the body with a ladder stitch.
Repeat with the other wing.
22.attach the feet
23.fold the wings
congrats!
this completes
your plush! Now
give it a big
hug!
align feet
flush with
bottom
stitch along
base of foot
stitch
underneath
toes
fold wing
to body
stitch
top edge of
wing

pg. 1/3
NAP
STRETCH
feather
placement
head bottom
guide
Chocobo Plush
P
A
T
T
E
R
N
www.cholyknight.com
HEAD SIDE (A)
Cut 2 from
main fabric
¼” seam
allowance
applique
placement
NAP
STRETCH
FEET(J)
Cut4fromaccentfabric
¼”seamallowance
NAP
STRETCH
HEAD
BOTTOM (D)
Cut 1 from main fabric
¼” seam allowance

pg. 2/3
NAP
STRETCH
TAIL(H)
Cut2frommainfabric
¼”seamallowance
NAP
FEATHER(C)
Cut4frommainfabric
¼”seamallowance
NAP
STRETCH
wingplacement
wingplacement
tail placement
foot
placement
foot
placement
BODY (G)
Chocobo Plush
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BOTTOM/BEAN POUCH (I)
Cut 2 from scrap fabric

pg. 3/3
NAP
STRETCH
Chocobo Plush
P A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
WING (F)
NAP
STRETCH
BEAK SIDE (B)
Cut 2 from accent fabric
NAP
STRETCH
BEAK
BOTTOM
(E)
Cut1from
accentfabric
¼”seam
allowance
BLUSH
applique
trace & cut
2 of pink
EYE
applique
trace & cut
2 of white
IRIS
applique
trace & cut 1
each of blue
EYE SHINE
applique
trace & cut
2 of white

Chocobo plush-sewing-pattern

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