Garment testing book

Õ
2017
2018
Dilan chathuranga module 01
Sri lanka institute of textile and apparel
2017 2018
Testing Book

Content…
o Color Fastness Test to Water
o Color Fastness to Commercial Laundering
o Color Fastness To Perspiration
o Color Fastness to Pressing
o Color Fastness to Rubbing
o The Tearing Strength
o Drape test
o Bursting Strength
o Grab test
o Strip Test
o Recovery from Creasing

Color Fastness Test to Water
ISO 105 EO1
Introduction:-
Color fastness to water is designed to measure the resistance to water of dyed, printed, or
otherwise colored textile yarns and fabrics. The test measures the resistance to water of any
colored textiles.
Apparatus:-
o Perspiration Tester
o Oven
o Multi fiber fabric
o Grey scale
o Color matching cabinet
o Glass plate or Acrylic resin plates
o Weight 12.5 kPa or 5kg pressure
o Glass beaker
o Stirring rod
Reagan:-
Distilled water or de-ionized water is used in this test method
Sample Preparation:-
Cut the specimen & multi-fiber 10×4cm & sewn together.

Working Procedure:-
Wet in distilled water at room temperature & it will suck water.
↓
Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates.
↓
Keep it in oven & keep the temperature at 37± 2°C for 4hrs.
↓
Open the specimen & dry it in the air hot exceeding 60°C.
↓
Change in color is assessed with the help of Grey Scale.
sample

Color Fastness to Commercial Laundering
ISO 105 C06
Color Fastness to Washing:-
Color fatness to washing means, A specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two specified
adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and temperature
in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color of the specimen and the staining
of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey scales.
Apparatus:-
o Stainless Still Ball
o Multi-fiber fabric
o Grey scale
o Sewing machine
o Thermometer
o Color matching cabinet
Recipe:-
Sodium Perborate…………..1 gm/litre
ECE Phosphate……………..4 gm/litre
Sample size:-
Sample Fabric………….10 cm*4 cm
Multi fiber fabric…………10 cm*4 cm

Working Procedure:-
Making a specimen of 04 cm x 10 cm in size.
↓
Sewing the specimen with multi-fiber fabric of same size at one corner.
↓
Making the solution of 4gm/liter ECE detergent & 1 gm/liter sodium perborate,
↓
Putting the specimen with multi-fiber fabric into the solution Time: 30 min Still ball: 25 pcs
↓
Rinsing with hot water respectively.
↓
Squeezing with cold water of the sample is done (Hand Wash).
↓
Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 60OC
↓
The stitching is then broken out except on one of the shorter end.
↓
Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale & make a test report.
sample

COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION
ISO105-EO4
Introduction:-
This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determination the resistance of the color to the
action of human perspiration.
Apparatus:-
o Oven, maintained at 37±2C˚
o Alkaline solution
o Acid solution
o Adjacent fabric
o Perspiro meter
o Glass or acrylic-resin plates
o Weight piece of mass approximately 5KG
o Analytical balance
o Flat bottom dish
o Spectrometer
o PH meter
Alkaline Solution
o Grade 3 water 1000ML
o histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate -0.5g
o Sodium chloride-5g
o Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate dodecahydrate-5g or 2.5g of disodium hydrogen
orthophosphate dehydrate-2.5g
Acid Solution
o Grade 3 water 1000ML
o histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate -0.5g
o Sodium chloride-5g
o Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate 2.2g

Procedure:-
Cut two specimen 40mm±2 x 100mm±2
↓
Cut multifiber fabric 40mm x 100mm
↓
Sewing along one of the shorter side of the multifiber fabric next to the face sides of the fabric.
↓
Weight each composite specimen.
↓
Lay out a specimen smoothly in flat-bottomed petri dish.
↓
Corer with solution (liquor ratio 20:1)
Remain in the solution of room temperature for 30min after happing.
↓
Pour off the solution and place the composite sample between two glasses plates
↓
Place the specimen two glass plate under pressure of 4.5kg.
↓
Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the oven for 4 hour at 37±2C˚in the
vertical position.
↓
Separate the sample from the malty fiber and dry them apart in air at the temperature not
exceeding 60C˚
↓
Assess the color change and water staining of the adjacent fabric with reference fabric by
comparison with the grey scale.
(Treat the other sample in the same way but with the solution at PH 5.5.)

Color Fastness to Pressing
ISO 105-X11
Color Fastness to Pressing:-
This method is used for determining the resistance of the colour of textile of all kinds and in all
forms to ironing and processing on hot cylinders.
Apparatus:-
o Heating device,
o Smooth heat-resistant sheet,
o Padding,
o cotton cloth,
o Cotton Adjacent fabric,
o Grey scale
o Grade3 water
Working Procedure:-
Specimen preparation
Specimen of materials, which has been subjected to any heat or drying treatment, must be
allowed to condition at 65% RH, temp. 20±2C˚, before they tested.
Dry Pressing:-
Place the specimen on the piece of dry cotton cloth on a smooth horizontal surface. Place the
iron on the specimen and leave it for 15 Sec.
Wet Pressing:-
Soak the specimen and cotton cloth in distilled water and squeeze or extract them to contain
their own weight of water. Place the wet specimen on a piece of the dry cotton cloth and place
the wet cotton cloth on the specimen, press by moving the iron to and fro over the wet cloth
(without additional pressure) for 15 sec.

Assessment
Assess the change in color of the specimen with appropriate grey scale.
sample
sample

Color Fastness to Rubbing
ISO105-X12
Introduction:-
Colorfastness to rubbing is a basic test used by customers to determine the quality of a colored
Fabric and has been an area of concern for processors for many years. The processor has to be
aware of the required standards and relate them to the possible limitations of what can be
achieved on the finished products.
Principle:-
Specimen of the textile are rubbing with a dry rubbing cloth and with a wet rubbing cloth the
machine provides two combination of testing condition through two alternative sizes of rubbing
finger one for pile fabrics one or solid fabrics or large print fabric.
Apparatus:-
o Crockmeter
o Cotton rubbing cloth
o Soft back waterproof paper
o Grade 3 water
o Grey scale
Procedure:-
Use the holding clamp to mount the specimen on the baseboard of the Crockmeter. The Long direction
of the specimen is parallel to the track of rubbing Ensure the specimen lays Flat on the baseboard.

Dry rubbing:-
Placed the conditioned rubbing cloth
↓
Flat over the end of the finger with the wearer parallel to the direction of rubbing finger at a
rate cycle for second
↓
Down ward force 9N track length 104 + 3
↓
Run the machine for 10 cycles
↓
Remove the tested specimen and condition
↓
Assessing & Rating with gray scale
Wet rubbing:-
Establish a technique for preparing rubbing cloth by weighing a conditioned piece of cloth.
↓
Then thoroughly soak in distilled water
↓
Re weight by using waterproof paper.( Very commonly used level of soak is 65% + 5%)
↓
Repeat the dry rubbing procedure for the wet rubbing specimen
↓
Down ward force 9N track length 104 + 3
↓
Run the machine for 10 cycles
↓
Remove the tested specimen and condition
↓
Assessing & Rating with gray scale

The Tearing Strength
ISO13937
Introduction:-
Determine the force required to tear the material under given condition.
Principle:-
The force required to continue a still previously in a fabric is telemid by measuring work done in
tearing the fabric through a fixed distance the apparatus consider of pendulum caring a clamp
which is in alignment with a fixed clamp when the pendulum is the raised starting positioning
with minimum potential energy.
The specimen is fastened in the clamp and the tear is started by cutting a slit in the specimen
between the clamp the pendulum is then released and the specimen is torn completely fixed
one. The tear force is measured.
Apparatus:-
o Pendulum testing machine
o Select the suitable mass of the pendulum so that measurement taken from the test
specimen given result between 15% & 85%

Procedure:-
Cut 5 specimen warp and weft in diagonally
↓
Place the machine balance position (can check water level mark)
↓
Mount the specimen in the jaws long side of the test specimen is parallel to the upper edge
↓
Using the scissors cut a slit 20mm
↓
Release the pendulum
↓
Recode the tearing force in newton
↓
Some procedure done for all sample and recode the result.
sample

Drape test
BS 5058
Introduction:-
This used to determine the extent to which a fabric will deform when it is allowed to hang
under its own weight.
Principle:-
A circular fabric specimen is held concentrically between smaller horizontal discs, and an
annular ring of fabric is allowed to drape into fold around the lower supporting disc. The
shadow of the draped specimen is cast onto an annular ring of paper of the same size as the
unsupported part of the fabric specimen. The outline of the shadow is traced on to the ring of
paper, the mass of which is determined. The paper is then cut along the trace of the shadow
and the mass of the inner part responding the shadow is determined. The drape coefficient is
calculated from the two masses.
Apparatus:-
o Drapability tester.
o Suitable weighing scale.
o Templates for mark specimens.
o Diameter 24cm – for limp fabric
o Diameter 30cm - for medium fabric.
o Diameter 36cm - for stiff fabric
sample Preparation:-
o Avoid selvages, folded and creased areas.
o Mark the sample using a suitable template and mark the middle.
o Cut the sample.

Procedure:-
Place the specimen on the lower horizontal disc of the drapability tester with the pin passes
through the center of the specimen.
↓
Position the top disc on the specimen with the pin fitted into the hole in the instrument.
↓
Lower the lid of the instrument.
↓
Place the annular ring of the paper, of the same outside diameter as test specimen, on the lid.
↓
Switch on the light and without any delay, draw around the periphery of the shadow on the
paper ring
↓
Remove the paper ring and fold it so that the mass can be determined.
↓
Determine the mass of the paper ring to the nearest 0.01g as (M1)
↓
Cut the paper ring around the periphery of the shadow which was drawn on the paper and
discarded the area of the paper ring which was not shaded.
↓
Determine the mass of residual portion of the paper ring to the nearest 0.01g as (M2)
Report the result method/Sample Identification/ Number of specimens and observers.
sample

Bursting Strength
ISO 13938-1
Introduction:-
This method is used to determine the Bursting strength and bursting distension of textile fabrics
Apparatus:-
o Bursting Tester
05 peace of 15cm × 15cm square or as it is the garment. It should be without creases or defects.
And Condition for 24 hrs. In standard atmosphere.
Test Procedure:-
Set the test area 50 cm2 .
↓
Adjust a time to distend a test specimen to burst of (20±5s) using preliminary trials.
↓
Place the specimen over the diaphragm so that it lies in a flat tensionless condition, avoiding
distortion in its own plane.
↓
Clamp it securely in the holder.
↓
Start the test and after the burst, record the bursting pressure and height at burst.
↓
Repeat the test at least 5 times at different places on the fabric.
Test Results Reporting : -
 Report the method and the year which is used.
 Sample Identification and sampling procedure.
 Make and model of bursting tester used.
 Test area used, in square centimeters.
 Rate of volume or time.
 No. of test specimens, no. of “close breaks” and no. of rejected.
 Observation of bursting behavior.
 State of test (conditioned or wet)
 Any deviation from the given procedure.
 Mean bursting strength in Kilo Pascal.
 Mean height at burst , in millimeters.

Grab test
ISO 13934-2:2014
Introduction:-
This method is used to determine the maximum force of textile fabrics known as the Grab test.
This method is mainly used for woven fabric.
Principle:-
A fabric test specimen, gripped in its center part by jaws of specified dimensions, is extended at
constant rate until it ruptures. The maximum force is recorded.
Apparatus:-
o Tensile Tester
o Contact jaws ( 75mm× 75mm / 25mm× 75mm )
o Sesor
o Ruler
o Condition the sample for 24hrs at standard condition before cut specimens.(Avoid
150mm from the selvages, Free of defect and free of creases)
o Mark the direction ( warp or weft)
o cut 5 specimens for warp and 5 specimens for weft.(Size- 100mm ±0.5mm width and
200mm of length)
o Align the long side of the specimen exactly parallel to warp or weft direction.
o No two test specimens shall contain the same set of warp or weft yarns.
o Draw a line at a distance of 38mm from on edge parallel to the warp or weft threads
running the full length.

Test Procedure:-
Set the gauge length of the machine to 100mm ±1mm
↓
Select the test method of the machine.
↓
Select new test and enter the settings ( Load 2000N / Ext 100 / Speed 50mm )
↓
Clamp the specimen centrally to the upper jaw and allow to hang with it own weight and mount
to the bottom jaw.
↓
Apply the pressure
↓
Zero the ext. and force.
↓
Start the test.
↓
Do the same for rest of specimens.
↓
Disregard the results if the specimen is slipped.
↓
Recored any break which occurs within 5mm of the jaw.( finally if any jaw break result results
falls below the lowest “normal” break result, then need to do a re-test for that specimen.
sample

Strip Test
ISO 13934-1
Introduction:-
This method is used to determine the maximum force and elongation at maximum force of
textile fabrics using a strip method. This method is mainly used for woven fabrics.
Apparatus:-
o Tensile Tester
o Contact jaws ( 75mm× 75mm)
o Sesor,ruler
o
Test Specimen Preparation:-
o Condition the sample for 24hrs at standard condition before cut specimens. (Avoid
150mm from the selvages.)
o Free of defect and free of creases, Mark the direction ( warp or weft)
o cut 5 specimens for warp and 5 specimens for weft.(Size- 50mm±0.5mm width and
300mm of length)
o Align the long side of the specimen exactly parallel to warp or weft direction.
o No two test specimens shall contain the same set of warp or weft yarns.

Test Procedure:-
Set the gauge length of the machine to 200mm ±1mm
↓
Select the test method of the machine.
↓
Select new test and enter the settings ( Load 2000N / Ext 100 / Speed 100mm )
↓
Clamp the specimen centrally to the upper jaw and allow to hang with it own weight and mount
to the bottom jaw
↓
Apply the pressure.
↓
Zero the ext. and force.
↓
Start the test.
Do the same for rest of specimens.
↓
Disregard the results if the specimen is slipped.
↓
Recorded any break which occurs within 5mm of the jaw.( finally if any jaw break result results
falls below the lowest “normal” break result, then need to do a re-test for that specimen.
Test Results Reporting:-
o Report the method which is used and the year of updated.
o Sample Identification and sampling procedure.
o Gauge length used, in mm.
o Date of test.
o Rate of extension or elongation as % /m.
o Pretension applied, in newton.
o No. of test specimens, no. of rejected and reasons.
o Any deviation from the given procedure.
o Arithmetic mean of the maximum force.

Recovery from Creasing
ISO 12313 :(E)
Introduction:-
Crease in textile fabrics diminish at varying rates on the removal of the creasing forces. The
magnitude of the crease recovery angle is an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from
accidental creasing.
Principle:-
A rectangular specimen of prescribed dimensions is folded by means of a suitable device and
maintained in this state for a specified short time under a specified load. This creasing load is
removed, the specimen allowed to recover for a specified short time, and the crease recovery
angle then measured.
Apparatus:-
o Loading plate 10N
o crease recovery angle machine
o Tweezer
o Stop watch.
o Avoid 50mm from the selvages. Without creased, wrinkled, bent or deformed parts.
o Mark the direction and Face side.
o cut 20 specimens 40mm × 15mm ( 10 warp and 10 weft )
o Condition for 24hrs at standard atmosphere. (20±2 0C / 65% ±2 RH)
o Sheet of paper or metal foil ( 18mm × 15mm )

Test Procedure:-
01. Fold the specimen end to end and hold in this position
by tweezer, by gripping no more than 5mm from the ends.
02. Place the sheet of paper between the limbs of the
specimen.
03. Place the specimen on the marked area of the lowest
plate of the loading device and apply the load without delay.
04. Load the specimen for 5min ± 5s and remove the load
and remove the specimen from the device quickly and smoothly so that the specimen does not
suddenly spring open. ( Completing the removal in less than 1 s )
05. Transfer the specimen directly to the specimen holder of
the measuring instrument using Tweezers.
06. Keep the sample in this instrument for 5 min.
07. While the specimen is in the holder, adjust the
instrument continuously to keep the suspended free limb always in a vertical position.
08. Read the crease recovery angle after 5min and record. (
if the free limb twists or curls slightly, use a vertical plane through its center and the axis of the
circular scale to serve as a basis for reading the crease recovery angle.
Test Results Reporting:-
01. Report the method which is used.
02. Simple designation of the tested cloth.
03. Whether a standard or high humidity atmosphere was
used.
04. Date of beginning of pre-conditioning and conditioning,
and duration of exposure of the specimen to the standard atmosphere for testing textile.
05. Date of test.
06. Number of specimen evaluated.
07. Test results as follows.. ( Each individual and mean
values must be recorded )

01. Crease across length ( warp)
a. Face to face
b. Back to back
02. Crease across transverse ( weft )
a. Face to Face
b. Back to Back

Garment testing book

More Related Content

What's hot (20)

Similar to Garment testing book (20)

More from dilan chathuranga (7)

Recently uploaded (20)

Garment testing book