Tests for Fabrics Dr.Ash
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The document outlines various fabric testing methods essential for determining fabric characteristics such as length, width, weight, tensile strength, drape, thickness, pilling, crease recovery, stiffness, air permeability, and abrasion resistance. It elaborates on the importance of testing for performance metrics relevant to garment quality and durability, providing detailed testing methodologies and equipment used. Additionally, the document discusses colorfastness tests that assess the stability of fabric colors under various conditions.
![FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT
2. Fabric Weight : [grams persquare meter]
Sample (from 3 locations) is taken and cut using GSM Cutter
Weighed using an electronic weighing balance](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/testsforfabricsdr-190528122203/85/Tests-for-Fabrics-Dr-Ash-3-320.jpg)
![FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT
3. Fabric Count: [no. of warp and weft yarns in one inch of
fabric]
It is number of thread in ONE unit of length
Threads include warp and weft
Defined as “no of yarns in the warp and weft yarns in one inch of a
fabric.
Measured using pick glass and needle or counting device](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/testsforfabricsdr-190528122203/85/Tests-for-Fabrics-Dr-Ash-4-320.jpg)
![How to test ?
ICI PILLING TESTER
Fourspecimen (125mm x 125mm) are taken
[2 in warp/2 in weft]
Placed on polyurethane tube and
sewn on tube
Put inside the box
5 hours – 18,000 revolutions
Sample compared with standard
(Pilling can be seen)
Graded
1 – poor
5 – very good (no pilling)](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/testsforfabricsdr-190528122203/85/Tests-for-Fabrics-Dr-Ash-15-320.jpg)
![DIFFERENT TYPES OF TESTS FORWOVEN
1. Tensile strength - STRENGTH
2. Tearing strength – MAXIMUM STRENGTH
3. Bursting Strength – POWER TO WITHSTAND FORCE
4. Pilling resistance – NO SHORT FIBERS
5. Abrasion resistance - ON USEAGE - FORCE – PRESSURE
6. Seam Slippage - SEAM QUALITY ON USEAGE
7. Recovery Test – FABRIC AFTER STRETCHING - POWER TO GET BACK TO
ORIGINAL SHAPE
8. Water Repelency – POWER TO REPEL WATER
9. pH Value 0-7-14 [ACIDIC-NEUTRA-BASIC]
10. Pile Loss - HOW MUCH PILE CAME OUT AFTER ABRASION](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/testsforfabricsdr-190528122203/85/Tests-for-Fabrics-Dr-Ash-35-320.jpg)
Tests for Fabrics Dr.Ash
- 2. 1. FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT &COUNT Why important? To find out how much fabric is needed to make a desired product Eg. : pant, curtain, table cloth 1. Length and Width (IS method) : Fabric is usually exposed to conditioning (to lab conditions) Measured using scale on a sample taken from population (usually three areas) – Mean value is taken Measurement is taken from end to end – between two selvedge • Scale • Measuring table • Machine – Trumeteris used Width, whereas is measured as distance from one selvedge to another (perpendicularto fabric length)
- 3. FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT 2. Fabric Weight : [grams persquare meter] Sample (from 3 locations) is taken and cut using GSM Cutter Weighed using an electronic weighing balance
- 4. FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT 3. Fabric Count: [no. of warp and weft yarns in one inch of fabric] It is number of thread in ONE unit of length Threads include warp and weft Defined as “no of yarns in the warp and weft yarns in one inch of a fabric. Measured using pick glass and needle or counting device
- 5. 2. Tensile strength Why this test ? •Important test for – knitted, nonwoven, lace •Bursting strength is method to measurethestrength, where the materialis stretchedinalldirections and pressure is applied. •Filters, sack, net, parachute, clothing near knee and elbow – these suffer pressure in all directions •Bursting in service happens, so in same condition test is also done What tests can be done? 1.Diaphragmbursting test 2.Ball bursting test (Picture here ->) Use a inch diameterball (solid) as pressure
- 7. Sample is taken Placed in the clamp and tightened Machine is run, Piston starts to pressure and pressure gauge shows reading Pressure keeps raising and fabric bursts Reading is noted in gauge How? Diaphragmbursting test Here pressure can be gas/liquid Step 1: Ten samples – tested – average 1st – without sample – machine is run. Extension of rubber diaphragmis noted. (P2) Sample should burst within 20 + 3 sec (P1) P1-P2 = bursting strength of the specimen
- 8. 3. Fabric Drape Why? •It is the way in which the fabric hangs in its own weight •Important to assess how a garment will look when it is worn What? Drape meter / Cusick Drape Test How? •Based on type of fabric – specimen size change •The fabric is laid on a plate, and the ligt source is used to get the shadow. More shadow region –more drape.
- 11. Light source is On and shadow of support disc is taken This gives Total Initial Area of Specimen (circle like diagram) Fabric is hung on diskand shadow is taken Calculation is done How? Drape meter/CusickDrape Test Drape co-efficient (D)= A3 - A2 < 1 A1 - A2 A1 = Total Initial area of specimen (outside instrument) A2 = Area of support disk(plate) A3 = Total projected area (sample - shadow)
- 12. 4. Fabric Thickness Why? •Fabric insulation property, drape, porosity and simply the durability is understood from this value How? •Thickness gauge instrument measure fabric’s thickness •Thickness value depend on pressure applied on fabric during testing (so pressure value should be mentioned) •The fabric is placed on flat anvil and circular pressure foot is press the fabric under and standard fixed load Digital Fabric Thickness
- 13. Precise measurement of distance between two plane parallel plates, separated by cloth, when known pressure is applied and maintained on the plate •Maximumcapacity : 10mm •Thickness in millimetre •Standard Dead weight •Least count of dial gauge : Accuracy 0.01mm •Throat depth : 22 mm Procedure: Fabric is kept on anvil, press foot is lowered, reading showcasing the sample thickness in mm is noted on the dial. Three different locations, sample thickness is tested
- 14. 5. Pilling/Abrasion Testing Why? •Small knots on the surface of fabric – undesirable – pilling •Result of abrasion (rubbing of two surfaces) •Different qualities of fiber •Low twist -> high hairiness -> Pilling What? •Objective and subjective method (Visual) •Martindale abrasion tester •ICI Pilling box Visually how? •Counting the number of pills – in a small area •Removing and weighing them – from a specific area •Comparing with a standard sample/ photo – analyzing the difference
- 15. How to test ? ICI PILLING TESTER Fourspecimen (125mm x 125mm) are taken [2 in warp/2 in weft] Placed on polyurethane tube and sewn on tube Put inside the box 5 hours – 18,000 revolutions Sample compared with standard (Pilling can be seen) Graded 1 – poor 5 – very good (no pilling)
- 17. 6. Crease Recovery Why? •Crease is an undesirable property – caused by type of fiber used •Fabrics that can resist a crease is appreciated •Wool and silk – good crease resistance (structure) •Cotton, linen, viscose – bad crease resistance What? Shirley Crease recovery tester How? Instrument has sample holder and circular dial
- 18. Specimen of 2 inch long 1 inch wide taken and folded half Weight of 2 kg is placed on the fabric – for1 min Specimen is taken and hung on the centerof instrument 1 min – time given and recovery is checked – angle noted (before & after–its difference ) How? Shirley Crease recovery tester • Note : Selvedge should not be used • Warp side and weft way is taken – each ten readings • Load, time of creasing, recovery time – changes as perend product • Higher recovery angle – show good resistance against crease• More the angle – more crease recovery the fabric has (fish net, chiffon scarf) • Less angle – less recovery (leather, cardboard)
- 19. Shirley Crease Recovery Tester • The scale is 180 degree calibration • When sample is folded into half , it travels fromthat 180 to anotherdegree. • The difference in first and last degree value should be observed and noted
- 20. Different Types of Fabric Stiffness or Bending modulus
- 21. 7. Fabric Stiffness orBending modulus Why important? •Each fabric is different •When understanding of a fabrics performance it is important we check the drape/ bending capability/ smooth/ tough/ stiff etc., What test is done? Shirley stiffness tester/ hand crank How is test done ? A horizontal strip of fabric is made to bend because of its own weight . Small scale is used in guiding the fabric in the action. The angle is considered.
- 24. Base flat = sprit Sample 150 x 25 mm using Acrylic Specimen Preparing Template Using calibrated scale fabric is moved till the edge of the sample touch the two inclined lines Angle and reading on scale is noted. Repeated 4 times for average value
- 25. 8. Air Permeability Why? •Transfer of air, water, heat by textile is important to determine comfort •Various textile product like sails, air bag, parachute, filterneeds this test result • Curtain – high air permeability • Fire resistant, pesticide clothing – medium air permeability •Fiber nature, yarn type, structure of fabric affects this value (Compare W and K)
- 26. Principle fortest: A specific volume of air is passed through the textile material – and resultant airvolume is evaluated. Difference is discussed Air permeability is volume of air (in cc) (volume) which pass in one second (time) through 1 cmof fabric (area)under a pressure head of 1 cm2 of water
- 27. How? •This test is important to measure how good the fabric can transfer air •twist factor, •thermal properties (fiber used) •cloth cover •Fiber and yarn type, •structure of fabric affects this value Shirley Air Permeability Apparatus is used
- 28. Testing forAirPermeability Air permeability is volume of air (in cc) which pass in one sec through 1 cm2 of fabric under a pressure head of 1 cmof water
- 29. Suction pump – A By-pass valve – B Series valve – C Draught gauge – D Reservoir – E Safety valve – F Rota meter – R Specimen – S
- 30. Suction pipe A draws air through sample S B, C control the airflow D– monitoramount of air E – reservoirto control airflow F is safety value to prevent accidents Initially airis pumped through first tube in R, laterin second and so on As the airis pressurized in the region below S, the readings in Dis noted •If sample is loosely woven, more airpass •Material like leatherless aironly is transferred Shirley AirPermeability tester Temperature 20±2o C and 65±2% R.H. Either permeability or resistance is calculated
- 31. 8. Abrasion tester Why? •Fabric abrasion is one of wear. Repeated application of stress Inherent fiber properties Are major reasons for causing abrasion
- 32. FACTORS THAT AFFECT ABRASION 1.Condition of specimen (Dry/wet) 2.Choice of testing instrument: e .g-flat abrasion, flexing abrasion, etc. 3.Choice of abrasive motion : Movement may be reciprocating, rotary or multidirectional. 4.Direction of abrasion : Direction of abrasion - can be at angles to the warp and weft directions. 5.Choice of abradant : For example: steel and silicon carbide, standard worsted orcanvas fabric, emerycloth of various grade are also used as abradant 6.Backing the specimen - felt orfoam rubber 7.Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument : accessories of the instrument which may rub the fabric must be spotlessly clean and free from grease 8.Tension on the specimen 9.The pressure between abradant and specimen 10.The end point of the test
- 33. How? •Cut the fabric (4 pieces) – take the weight •Place the samples in instrument under certain load •Start the machine- observe the counterof abrasion no •Abrasion of 200 – take the first sample - weigh it •Abrasion of 300 - second sample - weigh it •After abrasion – 400/ 500 - take their weight •Before and after weight – taken - find their wear index
- 35. DIFFERENT TYPES OF TESTS FORWOVEN 1. Tensile strength - STRENGTH 2. Tearing strength – MAXIMUM STRENGTH 3. Bursting Strength – POWER TO WITHSTAND FORCE 4. Pilling resistance – NO SHORT FIBERS 5. Abrasion resistance - ON USEAGE - FORCE – PRESSURE 6. Seam Slippage - SEAM QUALITY ON USEAGE 7. Recovery Test – FABRIC AFTER STRETCHING - POWER TO GET BACK TO ORIGINAL SHAPE 8. Water Repelency – POWER TO REPEL WATER 9. pH Value 0-7-14 [ACIDIC-NEUTRA-BASIC] 10. Pile Loss - HOW MUCH PILE CAME OUT AFTER ABRASION
- 36. Other basic tests include Flame retardant Presence of chemicals Heavy metal like mercury Crimp test Shrinkage COLOURFASTNESS All these affect the serviceability /durability which is the most important factorin making a textile product and purchase of a product. Change in surface Wearing/worn out/ sagging of garment Tearing
- 37. TEST FOR COLOR FASTNESS
- 38. COLOURFASTNESS: When a dyed/ printed textile is exposed to water and light, there will be a change in the color. There are various types of issues that a colored fabric face. Colour will go in washing Eg: Cotton chudi top When colour bleed from one part to other Eg. White and red cotton sari Color bleeds from fabric when wearing Eg. Uniform sari. After 10 wash, colour starts to fade Mistakenly dried under sun (tag will have no sun dry) Bleach for whites and color is available. Once a new bleach is applied to a fabric, it may loose color completely showing some signs There are cases when a white fabric is stained by the border color (red) – color fastness by rubbing
- 39. There are different types of ColorFastness namely 1.Colorfastness to Washing – after wash – color bleeding/ fading 2.Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning – after dry cleaning – color bleeding/ fading 3.Color Fastness to Ironing – after hot iron – color change 4.Color Fastness to Water - on exposure to water – change in color 5.ColorFastness to Rubbing – on rubbing – color change 6.ColorFastness to Perspiration – on exposure to sweat – changes 7.Color Fastness to Light – on exposure to sunlight – color change 8.ColorFastness to Chlorine Bleach – on exposure to chlorine bleach
- 40. Light Fastness – measured in scale of 1 to 8 Wash fastness – measured in scale of 1 to 5 Highernumberbetterfastness
- 41. References 1.https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102029/ 2.https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/different-types-of-fabric-testing- with.html 3.Principles of Textile Testing: An Introduction to Physical Methods of Testing Textile Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics, J. E. Booth, 1986 4.Handbook of Textile Testing and Quality Control. Elliot B. Grover and D. S. Hamby. Textile Book Publishers (Interscience), New York, 1960 5.A Practical Guide to Textile Testing, K. Amutha, Woodhead Publishing Company, India, 2016.