Fusing
- 1. FUSING By: Aditi Agrawal Tannishtha Maherda FP- Tech
- 2. What is Fusing? • The means of fusing are temperature and pressure, applied over a period of time, usually in some kind of specialised fusing press. • The rise in temperature at the ‘glue line’, the interface of resin and outer fabric where the resin is active, is caused by the electric heating elements of the press. • This changes the state of the resin from a dry solid to a viscous fluid. • Only with appropriate pressure will this flow among the fibres of both the outer fabric and the fusible base cloth. • On cooling, the resin re-solidifies and forms a bond between the two components of the laminate.
- 4. Fusible Interlining Interlining: A layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining of a garment, drapery or quilt. Fusible Interlining: A base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to another fabric by the controlled application of Heat and Pressure.
- 5. Fusible Interlining Fusible Interlining is a combination of three factors: • Base Material • Thermoplastic Resin • Coating
- 6. Base Material • It is the Substrate or bottom cloth. • It can be produced from Natural fibres or Synthetics or Blends of each of these fibres. • It influences the hand, bulk, appearance, durability, Crease Recovery, Shape Retention and Shrinkage Control of the finished garment. • It is mainly produced in three basic types: 1. Woven 2. Knitted 3. Non-Woven
- 7. Resins • These are the materials applied to the base cloth, and when subjected to heat and pressure they become the sole agent between the top cloth and the interlining. • Through the application of heat and pressure, the heated resin penetrates into the top cloth; on cooling it solidifies again, forming a bond between two fabrics. Resins have to conform to the following conditions: • Upper limit temperature: The resin should become viscous at a temperature below that which would damage the top cloth. This temperatures varies according to the top cloth, it rarely exceeds 175˚C.
- 8. Resins • Lower limit temperature: This is the lowest temperature at which the resin starts to become viscous. For most fusible fabrics, it is about 110˚C and for the fusible used for leathers and suede materials it is considerably lower. • Clean ability: The adhesive properties of the resin have to be sufficiently strong to withstand washing / dry- cleaning throughout the normal life of the garment. • Handle: The resin must contribute to the required handle and not act as an unwanted stiffening agent on the final laminate.
- 9. Methods of applying resins(Coating) 1. Scatter coating (particle size- 150-400 microns) • In this ,specifically designed scattering heads are used to provide an even scatter under automatic control. • The resin is then softened in an oven, pressed on to the base cloth and cooled.
- 10. Methods of applying resins(Coating) 2. Dry dot printed coating (particle size- 80-200 microns) • With dry dot printed coating,the powdered resin is filled in engraved holes on a roller. The base cloth passes over a heated roller and then against the engraved roller. • The powdered resin adheres to the cloth in the form of dots. Oven heating follows the printing operation to ensure permanent adhesion.
- 11. Methods of applying resins(Coating) 3. Paste coating (particle size- 0- 80 microns) • With paste coating,Fine resin powders are blended with water and other agents to form a smooth paste and are printed on to the base cloth. • Heat removes the water and the dots coalesce into solid resin. • This type of coating gives precisely shaped dots and is used to produce the finer dots used in shirt collar fusible.
- 12. Fusing Equipment and methods • Electric Iron: • Hand fusing with electric an iron relies on the operator to control the pressure and the time. • The temperature is rather variable. • With polyamide resins, bond formation is assisted by providing steam. • The result is better if a damp cloth is used, rather than a steam is distributed more evenly.
- 13. Fusing Equipment and methods • Flat bed press: • With a modern flat bed press, the pressure, temperature and time can be closely controlled. • These devices are especially suitable for fusing short runs of small parts. • A relatively high pressure is required, which is applied either pneumatically or hydraulically.
- 14. Fusing Equipment and methods • Conveyer fusing press: • Temperature, pressure and time are infinitely variable within the working ranges. • The enclosed construction allows for any vapours given off by the fusible to be exhausted safely. • The short pressing time gives a relatively gentle process.
- 15. Methods of Fusing • The simplest and safest of all is “Single Fusing”, in which a single piece of interlining, with raisin side laid down, is placed over a single piece of fabric with face side laid down. Some variations are as follows. 1. Reverse Fusing: • In this method, the outer fabric lies on top of the fusible. • On flat bed presses with elements only in the top layer, it is necessary to adjust temperature settings.
- 16. Methods of Fusing 2. Sandwich Fusing: • This is effectively carried out on horizontal continuous fusing press where heat is applied from both sides, above and below. • Two pairs of components, forming two laminates are fused together, with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich and the two interlinings on the inside. 3. Double Fusing: • This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in a single operation. • In creation of a satisfactory one-piece collar with a definite break- line, fusible interlinings play a very important part. Two different constructions are in common use, both requiring two thicknesses of interlining to be fused to the top collar. • It is most commonly used in Shirts’ collars and Men’s jackets front.
- 17. Double fusing
- 18. Problems associated with fusible interlinings • Boardiness • Bubbling • Color change • Delamination • Shrinkage • Strike back • Strike through
- 19. Brands & Manufacturers • Some popular Brands for fusible interlinings Brands for Fusing Machines: Royal Gold (India) Oshima (China) Martin (Italy) Duke ( Hongkong) Konwa (Selangor , Malaysia) Hashima Co. Ltd.(Japan)
- 20. Fusing Machines seen at GTE
- 21. Fusing Machines seen at GTE
- 22. References Reference books- • Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture • Clothing technology • Apparel manufacturing
- 23. Thank You By: Aditi Agrawal Tannishtha Maherda FP- Tech