Fashion Industry overview
- 1. Apparel Industry Overview TAM 1200
- 2. Textile Industry Fiber Yarn Fabric Other materials
- 3. Apparel Industry Apparel Manufacturers Contractors Subcontractors Wet Processors Wholesalers Retailers
- 4. Vertical vs Horizontal Integration Vertical Think McDonald’s Horizontal Think Darden Corporation Red Lobster Olive Gardon Bahama Breeze Smokey Bones Barbeque and Grill
- 5. Ready-To-Wear vs Couture Couture: French word meaning “sewing” Produced in small quantities Utilizes a lot of hand sewing Sized to fit an individual’s body shape Generally made of expensive fabric Haute Couture: means “high sewing” Developed in Paris in the 19th Century Ready-To-Wear: means “off the rack” Produced in large quantities
- 6. Wholesale Price Zones Designer: Collections of name designers Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Yves St. Laurent, Bill Blass, Armani, Chanel Bridge: Designers’ less expensive lines DKNY, Ellen Tracy Better: Nationally known brand names Liz Claiborne, Jones New York, Evan Picone, Nautica, as well as private label merchandise
- 7. Wholesale Price Zones Moderate: Nationally known sportswear brand names and less expensive “better” lines Jantzen, Dockers, Levi’s, Guess?, Lizwear Budget: Mass merchandisers and Discount stores Kmart’s Jaclyn Smith Target’s Isaac Mizrahi
- 8. Brand Name Classifications National/Designer Brands: These have a certain image, quality level, and price-point. Hanes, Fruit-of-the-Loom, Calvin Klein, Wrangler Private Label Brands: Owned and marketed by a specific retailer for their stores JCPenney’s Worthington Target’s Greatland or Mossimo Wal-Mart’s George or Metro 1
- 9. Brand Name Classifications Retail Store / Direct Market Brands: Name of a retail chain that is used as the exclusive label on the items in the store. L.L. Bean, Eddie Bauer, The Gap, Victoria’s Secret All Other Brands: Miscellaneous brands including licensed items. Mickey & Co., Looney Tunes Non-brands: Consumers have no identity, awareness, or meaning.
- 10. Designer’s Row Paying attention to trends Know the industry
- 11. Coco Chanel Box jacket suit Simple, elegant, classic
- 12. Pierre Cardin First Designer to put his name on everything.
- 13. Yves Saint Laurent Took over the House of Dior after Christian Dior Died.
- 14. Giorgio Armani Sophisticated, elegant suits for both men and women.
- 15. Emporio Armani
- 16. Issey Miyake Known for unusual pleated designs. Also does menswear
- 17. Ralph Lauren First fashion designer to own his own store. Known for classic designs and a rich mixture of fabrics, texture, and color.
- 18. Betsey Johnson Eclectic, fun style.
- 19. John Galliano
- 20. Karl Lagerfeld
- 21. Michael Kors
- 23. Viktor and Rolf
- 24. Gucci
- 26. Kate Spade
- 27. Shoshanna
- 28. Summary Know your brands. Know a variety of designers. Be able to discuss!
Editor's Notes
- #12: Karl Lagerfeld is the current creative director. Mademoiselle Chanel revolutionized women's fashion with inventions such as trousers for women, the little black dress, the tweed suit, the two-tone shoe and the first shoulder bag. She was born in France in 1883.
- #13: Born in Italy in 1922. Considered to have been the most creative, intellectual and avant-garde designer of the 50’s and 60’s. Showed the first nude look in 1966 followed by unisex astronaut suits, batwing jumpsuits and helmets. Celebrated 50 years in the industry in 2003. Started a new furniture line in 2000.
- #14: Born in Algeria in 1936. At 17 he won first prize in a competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat; at 19 he started working for Christian Dior. He took over the House of Dior in 1957 when Dior died. Opened his own house in 1962. has received numerous awards over this career including a 25 year retrospective of his work shown at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the first time for a living designer. Retired in 2002, his haute couture is no longer available but his sportswear, perfume and accessories live on under the LVMH umbrella.
- #15: Born in Italy in 1934. Produced his first menswear collection in 1974; women’s wear in 1975. He is known for his easy shapes cut out of exquisite fabrics.
- #16: This is Armani’s lower priced, younger label. A?X: Armani Exchange is younger and sportier yet.
- #17: Born in Japan in 1939. Worked for Beene in NYC for a year in 1969 and then returned to Tokyo. In 1971 he formed his own studio and opened a boutique at Bloomingdales in NYC. In 2000, he handed over the design reins to his protégé, Naoki Takizawa (born in 1960).
- #18: Born in NYC in 1939. Known for styles that showcase “American elegance”. Polo for men was established in 1968 and in 1971 he branched out to include women’s designs. In 1983, home accessories joined his repetoire. He has also designed for movies, including The Great Gatsby in 1973 and Annie Hall in 1977.
- #19: Born in Connecticut in 1942. Was established as a designer by the age of 22. Known for unique, imaginative designs that are worn by “spirited nonconformists” such as herself. Her daughter also works for her company.
- #20: Born in Gibralter (near Spain) in 1960. Studied at St. Martin’s School of Art – in the art department before switching to design. His designs are avant-garde, weird but beautiful. He mellowed over the 20 odd years of his career but his work is still in the forefront of fashion. In 1991 he moved to Paris and won rave reviews. In 1997 he took over the house of Dior and yet retained the right to design under his own name as well.
- #21: Born in Germany in 1939. In 1953 at the age of 14, he won an award for the best coat in the same International Wool Secretariat design competition in which St. Laurent won for best dress. A year later he went to work for Balmain and three and a half years later went to work at Patou. In 1984 he became an independent designer
- #22: Born in long island, ny in 1959.Went to FIT for one semester and then worked for three years as a buyer, designer and display director for a boutique store. His first collection was shown in 1981. Known for designing individual pieces that work together for sophisticated, modern women who dress to please themselves.
- #23: Born in NJ in 1961 and is of Cuban descent. After college and a few years of working in NYC, in 1997 Rodriguez moved to Madrid, Spain, as women’s ready-to-wear designer for the house of Loewe. He left the House of Loewe in 2001 to start his own label and has done very well.
- #24: Dutch design team based in Paris. Childhood friends, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have worked together since 1993. Had their Paris catwalk debut in 1998. Known for unwearable but amusing designs their shows are part fashion part performance art.
- #25: Frida Giannini, creative director. Born in 1972 (35 years old). Worked at Fendi for 5 years before joining Gucci in 2002. Made her mark in accessories, then women’s wear and 10 months later became the creative director for Gucci over all divisions.
- #26: Born in Paris 1952. Collections are considered witty – uses unusual mixes of fabrics, scale and shape. His perfume came out in 1994 – corset shaped bottle. Held fashion shows in his living room at age 14.
- #27: Grew up in KC, graduated from college in 1986, worked for Mademoiselle magazine as an accessories editor. She and her husband launched the company “Kate Spade Handbags” in January of 1993. They also have Jack Spade for men’s bags, a line of home products including linens and glassware, baby stores, sunglasses, and paper products.
- #28: Born in 1975 and raised in Manhattan, launched her first line in 1998. Designs women’s wear, bridal wear, swimwear, children’s wear. Also design for chain store A Pea in the Pod since 2001. Married in 2003.