MakerBot Replicator 2x Primer

Makerbot Replicator 2X
Using the Replicator 2X Desktop 3D Printer
written by Patrick Delorey & Mauricio Tacaoman
& Luiza De Souza
The City University of New York
Architectural Technology Dept.

This material is based upon work supported by the National Science Foundation
under Grant Numbers 1141234.
Any opinions, findings, and conclusions or recommendations expressed in this
material are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views of the
National Science Foundation.

LEVELING THE BUILD PLATE
Leveling the build plate will ensure that the filament
adheres to the plate evenly across its surface. Don’t
take this step for granted. An out-of-level build plate is
the #1 reason for failed builds. The knobs allow you
to be extremely precise in your leveling. Make use of
them!
Leveling Routine
To level the build plate, select Utilities in the main
menu on the MakerBot LCD screen and then select
Level Build Plate.
The LCD keypad will then prompt you to adjust the
bed at three different points using the three knobs
located underneath the build platform. Tightening
the knobs (to the right) moves the build plate away
from the nozzles. Conversely, loosening the knobs (to
the left) moves the build plate closer to the extruder
nozzles. The distance of the build plate should be the
thickness of a piece of paper, or approx. 0.1 mm.
Adjust the knobs at all three points so that the piece
of paper can slide between the plate and the nozzles.
Note that you should still feel the slightest bit of
friction. You will be asked to do this twice, once closer
to the middle of the bed, and once toward the edges.
After leveling the plate, the LCD panel will ask you to
confirm the adjustments in the center of the platform.
Once satisfied with the adjustment, you are ready to
load the desired filament.
Don’t just walk away immediately when you’ve
released a print. Pay attention, especially during the
first layer. If the build plate is too far from the heads,
the filament might not stick to the plate. If too close,
the extruder nozzles can scratch/tear the Kapton
tape. Additionally, if the plate is not level, the head can
collide with the part causing it to detach from the bed.
A little caution early can prevent hours of wasted time
and potential damage to your print or the machine.
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[1] Heated Build Panel
[2] Leveling Knobs
[3] Exturders
[4] Filament Guide Tubes
[5] LCD Panel
[6] SD Card Slot
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Fig. 1 -MakerBot Front
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LOADING AND UNLOADING THE FILAMENT
The Replicator 2X features dual extrusion capability,
meaning that two different types of filament can be
loaded and printed together. This allows you to print
in different colors and materials in the same part.
Check NYCCTfab website for the student guide for
purchasing filament and then load your desired spool.
www.NYCCTfab.com
To unload the existing filament, select Utilities >
Filament Options > Unload.
You will have to wait for the nozzle to reach the
appropriate temperature. Once the nozzle has
reached the correct temperature, unload the
filament by moving the lever away from the extruder
and pulling the filament out of the the extruder.
To load the filament go to Utilities > Filament Options
> Load.
1. Remove Enclosure Lid & Detach Guide Tubes
2. Feed Filament Through Guide Tube
Cut the end of the filament with scissors to get
a clean edge if it does not have one already.
Feed the filament through the guide tube until
it comes out the opposite side. To avoid jams,
it is best to feed the filament from the bottom
of the spool toward the top. Load the filament
counterclockwise for the left and clockwise for
the right.
3. Load New Filament Into Extruder
The LCD monitor will ask you to load the filament.
Wait for the nozzle to reach the appropriate
temperature. Once the nozzle has reached the
correct temperature, load the filament on top of
the extruder gently pushing filament downward
until you feel the motor grab and start pulling the
filament. Wait until it extrudes a few inches of
filament, then press the ‘M’ button to stop the
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[1] Extruder Cable
[2] Extruder Motor
[3] Filament Guide Tubes
[4] Filament Spools
[5] Lever
Fig. 2 -MakerBot Back
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Fig. 3 - MakerWare User Interface
USING MAKERWARE
MakerWare is used to generate the machine code
to run the Replicator 2X. It can open .STL, .OBJ and
.THING files.
Import your desired file by using the ‘Add’ button at
the top of the screen.
Scale
Bydefault,MakerWareoperatesinunitsofmillimeters.
If your model was created in inches, it may ask you
to re-scale your part. If it doesn’t, select your part by
clicking it, then clicking the ‘Scale’ tool from the menu
at the left. Then click ‘inches -> mm’. Your part will be
scaled correctly.
Orientation
You should always try to print your model in the most
stable orientation (usually with the largest amount
of material in contact with the bed). Orient your part
accordingly by selecting your part, then using the
‘Rotate’ tool.
When importing, MakerWare may also ask to move
your model to the build bed. If you need to re-orient
your model to gain stability, you can always re-position
your model on the build bed by selecting your part,
then selecting the ‘Move’ tool. In that menu, there will
be an option to position the part on the build bed.
Lastly, consider how overhangs will be printed. While
support material can be used to print overhangs, it
uses extra material and machine time, and can leave
artifacts on your finished print. By optimizing the
orientation of your part, you can often avoid this.
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[1] CAMERA: HOME - to reset default view : +/- to zoom in / out.
[2] LOOK- Rotate the plate and the object. Click the icon again to change the view to Top, Side or Front view.
[3] MOVE- Click and drag with your mouse the object around the plate. Click the icon again to change the position
on center, on platform or reset. Alternatively, you can change the position of the object relative to the x, y or z axis.
[4] ROTATE- Click and drag with your mouse to rotate the object. Additionally you can rotate by a specified amount
on the x, y and z axis.
[5] SCALE- Change dimensions by clicking and dragging with your mouse or by using the panel to change the
dimension of the objects in the x, y and/or z axis. You may also choose to scale uniformly (which is recommended).
You also have the option to scale by a percentage or to scale to the maximum size allowed.
[6} OBJECT- This function will allow you to view additional information on the object selected, such as the extruder
to be used.
[7] ADD- Click open and add an object to the current build plate.
[8] MAKE- Click to specify print resolution and export object to 3D print.

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Fig. 4 - MakerWare Print Options
USING MAKERWARE (cont.)
Exporting
When your part is ready for printing, click ‘Make’.
Basic Options
Ensure that ‘Export For’ is set to ‘Replicator 2X’ and
the material is set to ABS (unless you have loaded a
different filament).
Turn ‘Supports’ on if you need to build support
material for overhangs. Do the same for ‘Raft’ if you
have a part that touches the bed only in a few places.
This will give it better purchase on the build bed. Both
supports and rafts have some additional settings for
dual-extrusion prints which we will cover in greater
detail later.
Advanced Options
In advanced options, you can adjust a number of
machine settings.
Please do not change the print resolution settings.
‘Standard’ produces parts of sufficient resolution for
all student work. Increasing the resolution results in
longer print times. Please be considerate of other
students who are also trying to print their work.
If you want a smoother and more finished part, see
the post-processing guide later in this primer.

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Fig. 5 - MakerWare Advanced Options / Temperature Settings
USING MAKERWARE (cont.)
Recommended Settings:
Quality:
Infill: 10% (amt. of mat’l used for part interior)
Number of Shells: 2 (part envelope thickness)
Layer Height: .10 mm (self-explanatory)
Temperature:
Extruders: 230°C (DO NOT change this value)
Heat the Build Plate: Yes/Check
Build Plate: 115°C (increase from default 110,
see Fig. 5)
Speed:
Speed while Extruding: 90 mm/s (no change)
Speed while Traveling: 90 mm/s (no change)
Once your have applied your desired settings you can
now export. Click export and this will export a .x3g file.
Save the .x3g file to the provided SD card and print
your file.
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[1] BUILD PLATE TEMP: Set this to 115°C.

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Fig. 6 -Dual Extrusion on MakerWare User Interface
DUAL EXTRUSION
Dual extrusion can be used to print objects of two
distinct colors or materials. Be aware that dual
extrusion can take considerably longer to output a
cut-file and to print compared to single extrusion.
First make sure to check that the MakerBot Replicator
2X is selected as current printer on the bottom right
corner of the user interface. If you don’t have the
Replicator 2X as the current printer, on the top menu
of MakerWare, go to MakerBots > Type of MakerBot
> Replicator 2X.
Once the Replicator 2X is selected as current printer,
you can import the objects to be printed.
Importing
Objects you wish to print as separate colors or
materials must be imported as separate files (.stl,
.obj, etc.). For example, to print the teapot in Fig. 6,
the lid must be exported separately from the body.
Objects exported from other modeling software (such
as Rhino) maintain their position in space when
brought into MakerWare. For instance, one could
model the whole teapot in Fig. 6, then export the lid
and body separately to allow the parts to be colored
differently.
When you begin the importing process, be sure not to
move, scale or rotate any parts you intend to position
together. If MakerWare asks if you would like to adjust
units or reposition the parts, choose not to do so
immediately. Instead, import all your parts and then
select everything together, and perform the necessary
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[1] Object Dropdown Menu - Select which extruder will print the
selected object.
[2] Save - Use the save icon to save any changes. This feature
is especially important in dual extrusion since it will save the
position and extruder selection as a .thing file.
[3] Object to be printed by Left extruder
[4] Object to be printed by Right extruder.
Additionally, you can change the object display color of the
extruder by going to the top menu of MakerWare under
Edit>Setting.
Changing the display color will not change the color of the
filament extrusion. To change the color you must change the
spool to the available colors.
Note: A portion of the model should always touch the base.

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Fig. 7 -Dual Extrusion on MakerWare User Interface
DUAL EXTRUSION (cont.)
Extruder Selection & Saving
To choose which extruder is used to print the objects,
first select the part in question. Then, using the Object
tool, select which extruder you wish to use from the
dropdown menu.
Once you have imported all the files, verified their
position and picked the apporpiate extruder(s), you
may save the project as a .thing file using the ‘Save’
icon. Saving the file as a .thing will save all the changes
made to your objects in MakerWare.
Advanced Dual Extrusion Options
When you are designing a dual-extrusion print, you
will have a few choices to make regarding supports
and rafts (should your print require them). MakerWare
can automatically assign matching colors to supports
and rafts. In other words, any support or raft material
that contacts the model would be the same color as
the portion of the model that it touches. This prevents
contrasting colored artifacts left on your finished
prints.
There may be situations in which you wish to have
one extruder head or the other handle all support
and raft printing. For these situations, you can select
either the left or right extruder perform the operation
in question.

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PREPPING THE BED
Using a thin layer of ABS Slurry on the Build platform
right on top of the Kapton tape will improve the
adhesion to the build plate.
This process can prove quite useful to save time and
ABS plastic since the melted plastic tends to warp or
curl after being extruded. The warping can damage
some or all of the model.
To apply the ABS slurry, use a cotton swab to apply
a thin layer on the surface of the Kapton tape right
where the model will get printed.
Applying too much of the slurry will make it very
difficult to remove your object. Be sure to apply only
one thin, sketchy coat. With this process you can print
many objects without a raft.
REMOVING PRINT
To remove a print safely first be sure to move the
bed down away from the extruders. Once you have
removed your object, check the base of the printed
object. If it’s not smooth or if the extruded layers are
unevenly spread, this usually means that the build
plate is uneven. Try leveling the build plate again for
a better print.
Removal difficulty depends on the size of the objects
and the amount of surface contact with the bed.
Rafting an object with large surface area contact can
facilitate print removal.
If a print seems extra difficult to remove, carefully
use a metal spatula to pry under the piece and
incrementally pull the object off the bed.
Cold compressed air can help release prints when
working with a heated aluminum bed . Simply flip
the compressed air can upside down and spray the
base of the print.
Fig. 8 -Applying the ABS and Acetone mix (Slurry)
Fig. 9 -Taking off the 3D printed object

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Fig. 11 -Apply even pressure to Kapton tape
Fig. 10 -Peel of the plastic to expose adhesive side
INSTALLING KAPTON TAPE
The Kapton Tape is the orange protective tape that
covers the top of the build plate. The Kapton tape can
degrade over time as it will get scratched and torn.
Since a degraded Kapton tape can affect the quality
of your prints, it’s important to have a good cover on
the build plate for better adhesion.
To change the Kapton tape, first peel off the old tape
and discard of it. Make sure you get all small pieces
so that you will have a smooth and clean platform.
Take out a new sheet of Kapton tape. Peel back the
plastic about 1/4” from the edge so that the adhesive
side is exposed on one of the short sides.
Lay down the exposed edge along the corresponding
side of the bed. Then, using the tape applicator, use
even pressure to slowly apply the rest of the Kapton
tape on the build plate.

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ACETONE VAPOR BATH
Placing a 3D printed ABS part in acetone vapor can
smooth the surface of the part thus reducing or
eliminating the ‘banding’ visible from the layered
printing process. It can take an hour or more
(depending on the object) to achieve a good result.
To give your 3D object a vapor bath you will suspend
it in a metal can as the acetone vaporizes and bathes
the entire object.
First, fill the can with about 1/4” of acetone. Then
suspend your object from the wire protruding on the
lid. You may want to consider modeling a small loop
into your print specifically for this purpose. Beware
though, that as your print softens from the acetone
vapor, this loop can fail if made too small, dropping
your whole part into the acetone at the bottom.
Lower the build plate as much as possible (Utilities
> Jog Axes > Z+), then place the can at the center of
the build plate. Heat the bed to 110 °C by running the
Preheat function.
Note: DO NOT LEAVE THE MAKERBOT REPLICATOR 2X
UNATTENDED DURING THIS PROCESS.
Be sure to check your object periodically until you
have the desired result. Then let the object rest for
several hours (overnight, if possible). Try to touch the
object as little as possible. It will be soft and squishy
until the plastic re-hardens. When it does, the print
should be smooth and glossy.

DISSOLVABLE CITRUS BATH
Dissolvable Filament is designed for use as a solid
infill material with ABS filament. It dissolves in a
limonene bath in 8-24 hours (depending on size and
geometry of your print)
To dissolve the dissolvable support material on your
3D object, you will need to submerge it in a container
filled with limonene. ABS will float when placed in
liquid, so periodically agitating the container will result
in a more even dissolve and can reduce dissolving
time considerably. Consider using a smaller container
that can be completely filled.
First, make sure your container is large enough to fit
your geometry. Then fill your container with enough
limonene to submerge your entire object. Periodically
check your model and shake the container to agitate
the solution and evenly spread it throughout your
object. Your object could take up to 24 hours to fully
dissolve.
Note: DO NOT DISPOSE OF SOLVENT, LIMONENE IS
REUSABLE.
Limonene is a common, colorless, citrus scented
solvent available online and in grocery/home stores.
The finished ABS filament print will carry a citrus scent
for a few days after bath.
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OPTIMAL ORIENTATION
There is no one solution for optimally orienting models
for 3D printing using the MakerBots. However, there
are general principles which apply.
Optimizing the orientation of your print can save you
a significant amount of filament typically used for
supports.
The best orientation is to lay print as flat as possible
on the build bed. This will minimize build time and
reduce the need for support material. This can also
help with the success of your print as the more
surface area in contact with the bed, the better your
print will stick to the bed.
Remember that models are created by building one
layer on another. It is best to minimize cantilevers and
overhangs. It is best if each layer can settle securely
on the previous layer. Angles 45 degrees might need
supports.
Rafts are used with prints that do not have sufficient
surface area contact with the bed. Some models,
because of their design, will not have a flat bottom. In
this case, a raft will act as that flat surface to ensure
that your piece does not move during printing.
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Fig. 12 -support material for overhangs and
cantilevers
Fig. 13 -Model requires a raft

MakerBot Replicator 2x Primer

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