1. Guest lecture on
Guest lecture on
FABRIC STRUCTURE AND
FABRIC STRUCTURE AND
DESIGN
DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
February 24, 2025 1
2. PART – II
TYPES OF WEAVES
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
February 24, 2025 2
4. Fundamental Weaves
Fundamental Weaves
• Weft or warp threads must have only one warp
or weft overlapping within the repeat.
• The number of warp threads in a repeat must
be equal to the number threads.
• There are 3 kinds of fundamental weaves:
• Plain
• Twill
• Sateen
• Each weave is determined by 2 parameters:
• The repeat, R of weave.
• The shift, S of overlapping either vertical
shift, Sx or Horizontal shift, Sy
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5. Plain Weave
Plain Weave
• The simplest weave where the threads
interlace in alternate order and
classified as balanced and unbalanced.
• In trade, such terms as tabby, calico,
batiste are applied to plain weave
fabrics.
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6. Twill Weaves
Twill Weaves
• The twill order of interlacing produces
diagonal lines on the cloth.
• The purpose is to make cloth havier,
closer setting and better drapping.
• The parameters: R ≥ 3 Sx = Sy = + 1
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7. Regular Sateen and Satin and Irregular Sateen Weaves
Regular Sateen and Satin and Irregular Sateen Weaves
Sateen Weaves
• In pure sateen weaves the surface of the
cloth consists almost entirely of weft
floats.
• The parameters of sateen weaves: R ≥ 5; 1
< S < (R – 1)
• For regular sateen the shift (S) and repeat
(R) must be expressed by prime numbers,
it’s called weft face fabric.
• The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction
and the numerator of this fraction is equal
to the repeat of weave.
• The denominator is equal to the shift (Sy)
of overlaps.
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8. Satin (Warp Face Fabric)
Satin (Warp Face Fabric)
• Usually constructed using
the vertical shift (Sx).
• Satin has the warp effect,
and the density of warp is
much higher than the
density of weft.
Sx=3
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9. Irregular Sateen
Irregular Sateen
• Regular sateen cannot be constructed with a
repeat of four or six threads, because the
repeat and shift cannot be expressed by
mutually prime numbers.
• It is impossible to construct the regular
sateen if R = 6, because among the possible
values of shift found from the formula 1 < S <
(R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5, the number 2, 3, 4 have a
common divisor with 6.
• In this case, we cannot choose a constant
shift, but the sateen with a variable shift can
be constructed.
• This sateen is called irregular sateen.
• 4-shaft irregular sateen can be constructed
by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2 as shown aside.
• 6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed
shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.
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10. Derivatives of Fundamental Weaves
Derivatives of Fundamental Weaves
“Constructed by means of deriving from plain, twill and sateen
weaves, and retain their structural features”
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11. Plain Weave Derivatives
Plain Weave Derivatives
• This group of structure comprises various simple weave which are
varieties of the plain weave and can be produced on two heald shafts.
Warp Rep Weaves:
Denoted by a fraction.
The numerator shows the number
of warp overlapping and the
denominator, the number of weft
overlapping on the same thread
within repeat.
Extending the plain weave
vertically.
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12. Weft Rep Weave:
Opposite to warp rep weave.
Extending the plain weave
horizontally.
Denoted by a fraction.
Sum of the fraction numerator and
denominator equal to the warp
repeat.
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13. Rug from Rep Weave
Rug from Rep Weave
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14. Hopsack Weaves:
Constructed by extending the plain
weave both vertically and horizontally.
There are 2 or more warp threads
working in the same manner and 2 or
more weft threads grouped in the
same shed.
It’s denoted by a fraction, the
numerator is the number of warp
overlapping, and the denominator is
that of weft overlapping on each
thread.
The sum of the numerator and
denominator shows the repeat on
warp and weft.
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19. Weaves Constructed on Twill Bases
Weaves Constructed on Twill Bases
• Regular twill are often used as the bases for the construction of new weaves.
Reinforced Twills:
Warp overlaps are added to the single warp
overlaps of the basic weft-face twill.
The simplest reinforced twill is twill 2/2 (widely
used).
In producing this twill the same four shafts can
be used for making the selvedges on the warp
rep weave (necessary to coordinate the
operation of shedding and picking
mechanisms).
Retain the property of the original twill.
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20. Reinforced twill 2/2 (left hand twill, S
Reinforced twill 2/2 (left hand twill, Sy
y = -1)
= -1)
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21. Compound Twill:
It is obtained in parallel construction
of two or more twill weaves on the
same area.
The number of shafts for producing
compound twill is equal to its repeat.
Retain the property of the original
twill.
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23. Angled Twill
Angled Twill
Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to minus, after an
assigned number of threads.
With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also changed.
To construct:
i. Calculate its repeat
ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill
iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, Rx = 2Kx - 2
Rx = repeat of warp
Kx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift changes.
Ryb = repeat of the basic twill
Ky = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes
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24. Example:
Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill 2/4. The repeat of basis
twill is 6.
Answer:
Ry = Ryb = 6
Rx = 2Kx – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10
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25. Diagonal Twill
Diagonal Twill
Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift (to increase the
inclination angle of the diagonal changes).
The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to the doubling of
warp density (practically the shift can be accepted equal to two or three).
Can be constructed into 2 cases:
i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the increased shift.
Warp repeat, Rx = R ÷ So
Weft repeat, Ry = R
ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the increased shift.
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26. Example 1:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill 4 . 4 . 1 ,
if Sx = 2.
1 . 2 . 2
Answer:
Warp repeat;
Rx = R ÷ Sx R = 14
= 14 ÷ 2 Sx = 2
= 7
Weft repeat;
Ry = R
= 14
First warp constructed according the basic twill.
Second warp constructed according to the same formula but the shift equal to two,
and so on.
If the repeat of the basis twill is nit divided by the increased shift the diagonal
weave will have repeat Rx = Ry = R.
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27. Example 2:
Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill 5 . 1 . 1 , if Sx= 2
1 . 2 . 1
Answer:
In this case, Rx = 11 and Ry = 11
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29. Shaded Twill:
Represent a gradual transition from twill with weft effect to the
twill with warp effect and vice-versa.
Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-pattern fabrics.
The repeat on warp and weft for the shaded twill is determined
by the formula;
Warp repeat, Rx = Rxb (Rxb – 1)
Weft repeat, Ry = Ryb
Only straight draft is used.
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30. Example:
Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 1 to 4 .
4 1
Answer:
Rx = Rxb (Rxb – 1)
= 5 (5 -1)
= 5 X 4
= 20
Ry = Ryb
= 5
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32. Weaves Constructed on Sateen Bases
Weaves Constructed on Sateen Bases
In simple derivatives, a new design is built up by using the
original sateen as the base and adding overlaps, as required
to each base overlap.
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33. Reinforced Sateen:
Reinforced Sateen:
Similar to reinforced twill.
If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen on the basis of simple
sateen 8/5.
One more overlap should be added to every overlap of the basis sateen.
Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in the repeat make
the fabric structure stronger).
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34. Shaded Sateen:
Shaded Sateen:
Like the shaded twill.
Shaded sateen represents a gradual transition from the
sateen with weft effect to the sateen with warp effect, vice
versa.
The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded sateen is determined
by the formula;
Ry = Ryb
Ro = Rob (Rob – 1)
Example:
Construct a shaded sateen weave on the
transitions of shaded sateen 5/3.
Answer:
Ry – Ryb = 5
Ro = Rob (Rob -1)
= 5 (5 – 1)
= 5 X 4
= 20
February 24, 2025 34
