Objective testing
- 1. 1 CLOTHING COMFORT: Objective testing Hema Upadhayay, I.D: 34594
- 2. 1. Clothing Comfort: Types of clothing comfort 2. Comfort testing: Types of comfort testing. 3. Objective testing: Areas of application, Importance 4. Methods of Objective testing 5. Historical Background of Objective testing 6. Important parameters and their effect on clothing comfort 7. Instrument used for Objective testing 8. Advancement in Objective testing. 9. Institutes providing testing facilities in India. 10. Research in the field of Objective testing 11. References CONTENTS
- 3. • Comfort is defined as ‘the absence of unpleasantness or discomfort’ or ‘a neutral state compared to the more active state of pleasure’ (Slater, 1977). • Clothing comfort is defined as a pleasant state arising out of physical, physiological and psychological harmony between a human being and the environment. 3 INTRODUCTION
- 4. PHYSICAL PHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORT PSYCHOLOGICAL Physical comfort : related to the effect of the external parameters on the body. Feeling of well being due to the harmony between physical activity and clothing properties. Physiological comfort relates to the ability of the clothing to maintain equilibrium between the human body and the environment. Psychological comfort :minds ability to keep itself functioning satisfactorily with the external help. It is mainly based on subjective feelings and fashion trends that influence personal preferences.
- 6. COMFORT TESTING Testing of different parameters which determines the comfort properties of fabric and garment for different end uses. Objective Evaluation Quantitative Evaluation of fabric comfort properties by the application of mechanical instruments and equipment. Subjective Evaluation Qualitative evaluation of fabric and garment based on human perception.
- 7. Objective Evaluation 7 . The application of necessary and sufficient instrumental measurements using set standards and procedures on the fabrics and clothing. Importance To specify and control •Quality •Suitability according to end use • Ultimate performance of fabric, garment and clothing system. Feasible •Suitable instruments •Analytical methods for interpretation of data.
- 9. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF OBJECTIVE TESTING FOR COMFORT Heated kata thermometer first attempt to measure human climate comfort 1916 . 9 Eupatheoscope Dufton, 1929 in order to imitate the human body heat loss (eupatheostat), and he termed the measured variable ' equivalent temperature.
- 10. 10 Eupatheoscope •To record the warmth of a room from the point of view of comfort. •It consists of a blackened hollow copper cylinder heated by a carbon filament and a metal filament lamp, which are controlled by a thermostat to maintain a temperature of 75°F. •The power used was interpreted in terms of equivalent temperatures.
- 11. 11 clo unit in 1941 by Gagge, Burton, and Bazett was an important advancement in clothing science as it provided for a standard measure of the thermal insulation of clothing. 1 clo equaled the insulation provided by a typical business suit. The objective measurement of fabric mechanical properties can be traced back to the work reported by Pierce in 1930 in a classic paper” The handle of cloth as measurable quantity” by Pierce in 1930 First book “Psychology of clothes” on clothing comfort by J C Flugel in 1930.
- 12. • In the late 1950s and 1960s, TEFO started the evaluation of stress mechanical properties such as bending, buckling, tensile, shear and compression for the tailorability and formability of the fabrics into garments. • Tatsuki Matsuo ( Toyobo Research Centre) identified useful parameters, and developed a collection of fabrics samples, which provides an Atlas of fabric hand, combining subjective feel and objective characterization. 12 TEFO: Swedish institute for fiber and polymer research
- 13. Efforts of Prof. Seo Kawabata of Kyoto University and his associates led to the development of The Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee (HESC) in 1972 followed by KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) which was used in the wide spread for fabric assessment. CSIRO, Division of Wool Technology, Australia, developed the FAST (Fabric assurance by simple testing) system which is commercially available and is also widely used for the objective evaluation of fabric.
- 14. GE’s “Copper Man,” a quarter-inch-thick, electroplated copper mannequin from the early ’40s that the Army used to evaluate the thermal-insulating quality of protective clothing issued to B-17 and B-24 airmen. 14 The first thermal manikin was a one-segment copper manikin made for the US Army in the 40's (Belding). Dr. Harwood Belding first build a headless and armless manikin from pipes and metal sheets. The manikin had an internal heater and fan to distribute the heat.
- 15. 1942 Belding collaborated with engineers at the General Electric Co., build a new thermal manikin made out of an electroplated copper shell with electrical circuits that uniformly heated the surface. The manikin was made with a feature to change the surface temperature of the hands and feet independent of the surface temperature of the rest of the manikin’s body. 15
- 16. • In 1961, military thermal manikin work was centered at the new U.S. Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine (also known as "USARIEM") located at Natick, Massachusetts. • The introduction of the moisture permeability index (im) was given by Woodcock in 1962 at USARIEM. • This value is the ratio of the maximum evaporative cooling, at a given ambient vapor pressure, from a 100% wetted surface through a fabric, to the maximum evaporative cooling of a psychrometric wet bulb thermometer at the same vapor pressure. • This parameter characterized the permeability of clothing materials to the transfer of water vapor. 1616
- 17. • Woodcock used a sweating, heated cylinder to conduct his permeability evaluations of both the bare cylinder surface and various protective clothing textiles. • Goldman and Breckenridge, interested in utilizing this index for practical clothing applications, outfitted thermal manikins with tight fitting cotton skins that could be saturated with water to simulate a sweat wetted skin surface. • This work made it possible to begin a concerted effort to increase the "breathability" of chemical and biological protective clothing. 17
- 18. • USARIEM 1984 began using a new articulated, thermal manikin employing 19 separate heating zones. • Ability to simulate the bodily movements involved in walking and running. • The manikin is housed in a climatic chamber with precise control over the air velocity directed at the manikin.
- 19. S.no Segment Series Material Posture Country 1. 1-Segment SAM Copper Standing USA 1942 2. 11-Segments ALMANKIN Aluminum Standing UK 1964 3. Radiation Manikin CEPAT400 Aluminum Standing France 1972 4. 16-Segments HENRIK2 Plastic Moveable Demark 1973 5. 16 –Segments CHARLIE Plastic Moveable Germany 1978 6. 16 –Segments SIBMAN Plastic Sit stand Sweden 1980 7. 19-segments VOLTMAN Plastic Sitting Sweden 1982 8. 36-Segments ASSMAN Plastic Sitting Sweden 1983 9. 19-Segments TORE Plastic Moveable Sweden 1984
- 20. S.No Segment Series Material Posture Country 10. 7-Segments CLOUSSEAU Plastic Standing Sweden 1987 11. Sweating manikin COPELIUS Plastic Moveable Finland 1988 12. Female manikin NILLE Plastic Moveable Denmark 1989 13. 33+3 Segments HEATMAN Plastic Moveable Sweden 1991 14. 1-segment sweating WALTER Fabric Moveable Hong Kong 1991 15. 36-segments HEATMAN Plastic Moveable France 1995 16. Breathing Manikin NILLIE Plastic Moveable Denmark 1996 17. Sweating manikin SAM Plastic Moveable Switzerland 2001 18. 26-segments TOM Copper Moveable USA 2003 19. 126-segments ADAM Composite Moveable USA 2003
- 22. •KAWABATA •FAST •Water vapour permeability. •Water Resistance. •Water Repellency •Air permeability •Air resistance Air Management Moisture Management Hand testing Thermal Management •Thermal resistance •Thermal Transport •Water Vapour permeability • Water Resistance Water Repellency COMFORT TESTING
- 23. Water vapour Permeability Air permeability Water resistance and repellency Flexibility Thermal Insulation Stiffness Warmth Breathability
- 24. Destructive Non destructive METHODS OF OBJECTIVE TESTING Fabric testing Garment testing
- 25. EQUIPMENTS AND TESTING OF PHYSIOLOGICAL PARAMETERS FOR COMFORT
- 26. Air Permeability •Number of cubic centimeters of air passing through one square centimeter of fabric per second when the differential between the air pressures on opposite sides of the fabric is equal to 12.7 mm of water. Major •CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 36 – M89. •ASTM D – 737.
- 27. 27 EQUIPMENTS USED Air Permeability Tester
- 28. ASIAN Air Permeability tester 28 Digital Air Permeability tester Akustron Air Permeability tester
- 29. Dynamic Air Permeability tester TEXTEST Air Permeability tester Portable Air Permeability Tester
- 30. • Moisture vapour permeability • The ability of a fabric to allow perspiration in its vapour form to pass through is measured by its moisture vapour permeability in grams of water vapour per square meter per 24 hours. • A fabric of low moisture vapour permeability is unable to pass sufficient perspiration and this leads to sweat accumulation in the clothing and hence comfort.
- 31. MOISTURE COMFORT RELATED TESTING 1.WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY A)Gravimetric methods: Most simple and commonly used methods. These methods are named also “cup method” and “dish method”. 31 31Cup method Inverted cup method
- 32. B) Sweating Guarded Hot Plate 32 ISO 11092: 1993 (E)
- 33. Permetest skin model (Sensora instruments) •Slightly curved porous surface is moistened and exposed in a wind channel to the parallel air flow of adjustable velocity. •The tested sample is placed on the wetted area of diameter about 80mm.The amount of evaporation heat taken away from the active porous surface is measured by integrated system. •In the beginning of the measurement, the measuring head is first covered by semi permeable foil to keep the measured garment dry. Then ,heat flow value (q) without a sample is registered. • The full-size garment is inserted between the head and the orifice in the bottom of the channel. With the signal gets steady, the level of qs, which quantifies heat loses, of wet measuring head covered by a sample, is registered. • Both values then serve for automated calculation of mean value and variation coefficient of the following characteristics of the tested fabric/garment. SAMPLE THERMAL INSULATION TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEMPERATUR E SENSOR WIND CHANNEL RELATIVE HUMIDITY SENSOR FAN HEATING ELEMENT INSTRUM. BODY WATER INLET POROUS LAYER SIMULA- TING THE HUMAN SKIN WITH INTEGRATED SEN- SOR OF COOLING POWER MEASURING HEAD
- 34. Water Resistance and Repellency Standard Test Methods AATCC Method 21, Water repellency: Static absorption test AATCC Method 22, Water repellency: Spray test AATCC Method 35, Water resistance: rain test AATCC Method 42, Water resistance: Impact penetration test AATCC Method 127: Water resistance: Hydrostatic pressure test 34
- 36. BUNDESMANN WATER REPELLENCY TEST HYDROSTATIC HEAD TESTER
- 38. Single plate method: In this method the specimen under test is placed on the heated lower plate as above but it is left uncovered. The top plate being used to measure the air temperature (T3). The air above the test specimen has a considerable thermal resistance itself so that the method is in fact measuring the sum of the specimen TOGMETER
- 39. Two plate method: In this method the specimen under test is placed between the heated lower plate and an insulated top plate. The top plate has a low mass so that it does not compress the fabric. The temperature is measured at the heater (T1), between the standard and the test fabric (t2) and between the fabric and the top plate (T3)
- 40. The guarded hot plate is used to measure thermal transmittance which is reciprocal of the thermal resistance. The apparatus consist of a heated test plate surrounded by a guard ring and with a bottom plate . the test fabric in place the apparatus is allowed to reach equilibrium before any readings are taken. This may take some time with the thick specimens. The amount of heat passing through the sample in watts per square meter is measured from the power consumption of the test plate heater. The temperature of the test plate and the air 500mm above the test plate are measured. GUARDED HOT PLATE
- 41. ALAMBETA INSTRUMENT Alambeta measuring device is a fast measuring of transient and steady state thermo-physical properties (Thermal insulation and thermal contact properties). 1. Thermal conductivity (a) 2. Thermal absorption(b) 3. Thermal resistance (r) 4. The ratio of maximal to stationary heat flow density (q max/qs) 5. Stationary heat flow density qs at the contact point (qs) 6. Samples thickness.
- 42. ASTM F1868 Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot Plate • This test method covers the measurement of thermal resistance and evaporative resistance under steady-state conditions for fabrics, films, coatings, foams, and leathers, including multi-layer assemblies, as used in clothing systems.
- 43. ASTM F1291-05 Temperature Ratings: Heat transfer models are used with the insulation value to determine the temperature ratings for comfort at different activity levels. 43
- 44. Evaporative Resistance of Clothing 44 ASTM F2370-05
- 45. HAND PROPERTIES
- 46. •The Kawabata evaluation system (KES) is used to measure the mechanical properties of fabric. •Developed by a team led by Professor Kawabata in the department of polymer chemistry, Kyoto University ,Japan. •KES is composed of four different machines on which a total of six tests can be performed: • Tensile & shear tester – tensile, shear • Pure bending tester – pure bending • Compression tester – compression • Surface tester – surface friction and roughness 46
- 47. Tensile LT Linearity of load extension curve WT Tensile energy RT Tensile resilience Shear G Shear rigidity 2HG Hysteresis of shear force at 0.5º 2HG5 Hysteresis of shear force at 5º Bending B Bending rigidity 2HB Hysteresis of bending moment Later compression LC Linearity of compression thickness curve WC Compressional energy RC Compressional resilience Surface characteristics MIU Coefficient of friction MMD Mean deviation of MIU SMD Geometrical roughness Fabric construction W Fabric weight per unit area To Fabric thickness
- 48. Automatic Tensile & Shear Tester-KES-FB1 This machine is a new automated model of tensile and shear tester that can measure tensile property and shear property of fabrics, papers, non-woven fabrics, and films by one machine. 48
- 49. Automatic Pure Bending Tester - KES-FB2 This machine is a new automated model of bending tester that can measure bending property (bending rigidity, hysteresis in bending moment) of fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and yarns, hairs, optionally. 49
- 50. Automatic Compression Tester - KES-FB3 This machine is a new automated model of compression tester that can measure compression property such as fabric thickness, work of compression and recoverability of fabrics and films by applying compression load. 50
- 51. Automatic Surface Tester - KES-FB4 This machine is a new automated model of surface tester that can measure surface property of fabrics, papers, non- woven fabrics, and films. 51
- 52. •FAST has been developed by CSIRO in Australia which is designed to predict the properties of wool and wool blended fabrics that effect their tailoring performance and the appearance of the tailored garments in wear. •These instruments also give information which can be related to the fabric handle. •Unlike KES-F system, FAST only measures the resistance of fabric to deformation and not the recovery of the fabric from deformation. •However , The FAST system is much cheaper, simpler and more robust than KES-F system, and , as such, perhaps more suited to an industrial revolution. •FAST can predict how a fabric will perform when made up into a garment- an information of importance for fabric manufactures, suppliers, finishers and garment makers. FAST (Fabric assurance by simple testing) 52
- 53. 53 •Test results from FAST-1,-2,-3 can be recorded instantly and automatically, FAST-4 results are recorded manually. •The results are plotted on a control chart to provide a fabric fingerprint, which indicates weather the tested fabric will be suitable for the intended use.
- 54. 54 FAST-1 (Compression Meter) Measures the thickness of the fabric under two fixed loads First the fabric is measured under the load of 2g/cm2 And then again under a load of 100g/cm2
- 55. 55 •Measure the stiffness or conversely, the flexibility of a fabric. •The instrument works on the cantilever principle, which involves pushing a fabric over a vertical edge until it has bent to a specified angle (41.5) •Stiff fabric will need pushing further to bent to this angle, whereas a flexible, or limp one will fall quickly. •The bending rigidity , which is related to the perceived stiffness, is calculated from bending length and mass/unit area. •Fabrics with low bending rigidity may exhibit seam pucker and are prone to problems in cutting out. •They are difficult to handle on an automated production line. •A fabric with a higher bending rigidity may be more manageable during sewing, resulting in a flat seam but may cause problems during moulding as it is stiffer FAST-2 (Bending Meter)
- 56. 56 •Measures the amount (in per cent) that the fabric will stretch under three fixed loadings (5,20 and 100g/cm) •Fabrics are measured at all three loads in the warp and weft directions and (at the lowest load only) in a bias direction of 45. •Bias extension is converted to shear rigidity which is directly related to fabric looseness. •Both high and low values of Extensibility can have serious consequences if the garment maker is not aware of them. FAST-3 (Extension Meter)
- 57. 57 FAST-4 (Dimensional stability Test) •In this test (which requires a laboratory oven), the fabric is subjected to a cycle of drying, wetting and then drying again. •After each stage the fabrics dimensions in both warp and weft are measured •The results give valuable information to the garment maker as to how the dimensions of a fabric will change when exposed to moisture. •The test method enables the Dimensional stability properties of the fabric to be split into clearly identifiable components whose cause and effect are quite different. •The se are: Relaxation shrinkage and Hygral expansion.
- 58. 58 •The whole results are plotted on a chart, which is similar to the chart produced by the KES-F system. • The shaded area show regions where the fabric properties are likely to cause problems in garment manufacture. •These limits have been determined from experience and apply only to the worsted suiting's for which the systems was originally designed.
- 59. Recent advances
- 60. 60 Modern Manikins Measurement of Sleeping Comfort CHARLIE 3rd 60 Measurement of Wearing Comfort CHARLIE 4th CHARLINECHARLIE 1st
- 61. 61 •World's most advanced thermal comfort manikin having 126 individual sweating zones. •Developed for the Department of Energy's National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL). •Mimics human responses such as sweating and breathing with incredible accuracy. • High spatial resolution and rapid response to environmental changes allow it to respond realistically to transient, non-uniform inputs. • All electronics including batteries and a wireless transceiver for true cordless operation of all manikin systems. A.D.A.M. = Advanced Automotive Manikin
- 62. 62 • Constructed of a thermally conductive carbon-epoxy shell with embedded heating and sensor wire elements. • Jointed at the hips and shoulders only, with simplified hands and feet, and having 13-zones. • Complete turn-key system for sleeping bag and environmental testing • Hidden hanging hook at top of head provides an attachment point for support, when needed • System includes a PC computer and Thermal DAC control software S I M O N
- 63. • Complete turn-key thermal manikin system perfect for a broad range of clothing and environmental testing. • Developed using advanced CAD digital modeling and is constructed using a thermally conductive composite shell with embedded resistance wire heating and sensor wire elements. • Available in standard 20, 26, or 34-zone configurations. • Optional removable fabric sweating skin with computerized fluid flow. • Motorized walking motion and support stand available. • Breathing machine with nose/mouth manifold and filter available 63 NEWTON
- 64. SHERLOCK • "Sherlock" is the latest member (2014) of a large "test family" • Sweating thermal articulated manikin possible to measure both the thermal insulation and the breathability of clothing of all kinds using one measuring system. • Work in closely controlled conditions. • Different ambient temperatures and humidity levels can be simulated, along with other external influences such as wind, radiated heat and rain. • "Sherlock" will have to work until he "sweats," so that the moisture management of clothing can be assessed in real wearing conditions. 64
- 65. CONCLUSION •The quality and performance characteristics of fabric and clothing are closely related to their basic engineering properties and can, therefore, be control led through fabric objective measurements. •These measurements provide objective communication between various sectors of textiles and clothing industries, thus facilitating fabric specifications for quality and performance requirements and transactions based on these specifications. •The development and application of fabric objective measurement technology is consistent and compatible with the continuing trends to high technology in the textile and clothing industries. 65
- 66. REFERENCES •Anonymous retrieved on 23 march 2015 from http://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102029/55 •Behera B.,K., and Hari, P.K. 1994. Fabric quality evaluation by objective measurement. Indian Journal of fiber & Textile research. 19, pp168-171 •Anonymous retrieved on 20 march 2015 from http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/tpacc/comfort-performance/kawabata-evaluation- system.cfm •Ingvar Holmér. 2004. Thermal manikin history and applications, European Journal of Applied Physiology© Springer retrieved on 23 march 2015 from http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00421-004-1135-0/fulltext.html •Anonymous. 2009. Clothing physiology. 2009 retrieved on 17 feb 2015 from http://www.hohenstein.org
- 67. REFERENCES •Das B. et al., 2007. Moisture transmission through textiles. Part II: Evaluation methods and mathematical modelling. AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 7, No3. Retrieved on November 30 from http://www.autexrj.org/No3- 2007/0236.pdf •Saville, B.P., 2004, Comfort, Physical Testing of Textiles, The textiles Institute, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England, pp 209-243. •Slater,K.,1986, The assessment of comfort, Journal textile Inst., 77(3),pp 157-171. •Uttam,D.,2012,Objective Measurement of heat transport through clothing, International Journal of Engineering research and Development, 12(2),pp 43-47. •Kaplan, S. and Okur, A., 2012, Thermal comfort of sports garments with objective and subjective measurements, International journal of Fiber & Textile research , 3, pp 46-54.
- 68. THANK YOU
Editor's Notes
- #28: http://www.frazierinstrument.com/products/fap/fap.html