Resin Finishing
19 likes5,384 views
Denimist specializes in denim finishing and garment washing, providing customers with expertise in chemicals and procedures to enhance fabric properties and avoid production errors. The document details resin finishing processes, including the advantages and disadvantages of different resin types, and emphasizes the importance of cooperation among fabric producers, garment manufacturers, and laundries for achieving desired results. Additionally, it outlines specific applications, temperature conditions, and chemical interactions vital for maintaining fabric strength during the finishing processes.
Resin Finishing
- 1. d n m o k 11 e i b o DENIMIST 2011 DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE DB DENIM BOOK D E N I M I S T
- 2. DB DENIM B O O K DENIMIST T U R K E Y Since decades Denimist has developed know-‐how in denim finishing prior to garment manufacturing and also in jeans washing. Our customers derive benefit from this experience.For the fabric production we offer finishing chemicals which provide the demanded fabric properties such as good sewability, stiffness,elasticity and handle. The other field of our activity is the recommendation of laundring Procedures for ready-‐made clothing such as trousers, jackets or skirts, shirts. In doing so we have learned that many errors may occur in this complicated production process. The laundry, the last step in the sequence of producers, is faced to difficulties which are caused by previous inaccuracies. Therefore, a good cooperation among the steps of jeans manufacturing is required to avoid problems. Fabric producer, garment manufacturer and laundries have to work together to obtain the desired end result. By means of our contacts on both sides of the production process we are able to make our contribution. The technical stuff of Denimist is always ready to help our customers with eventual problems and to modify production procedures according to the respective requirements. Through our numerous contacts which we have got with denim producers, garment manufacturers and laundries during the years we support the team work among all sections of the jeans chain and make our know-‐how available to all of the parties concerned
- 3. DBDENIM B O O K RESIN FINISHING Resin processes have become more popular recently. The biggest disadvantage of the resin processing is the strength loss of the fabric. There are 3 main reasons for this strength loss. The binds which are formed by resin break the binds which are already formed on the fabric and giving the strength of the fabric. The damage of cellulose fibers by resin which has a very low pH As the fabrics treated with resin have a stiff handle and low Slippin gover properties the tear strength of the fabric falls down.
- 4. DBDENIM B O O K After the resin process around 15-‐40% tear strength loss is observed on the fabric.For this reason some standards are required. E.g. for trousers min 750 N strength for warp wise and 600 N strength for weft wise are required. Resin Processes can be done either on the washed fabric or on the greige fabric.If it is to be done on the greige fabric,a deairating wetting agent like Deniwet SI must be used due to the hydophility problems. Denires CUBE has been being used not just only for crinkles and whiskers but also hand-‐sanding effect as the hand sanding effects of the fabric will be brighter than those which are not treated with Denires CUBE.( Especially if Denires U-‐ TEAR Denicoat DERM , Denires TRITON ) Denires CUBE treated fabric will have a good hand-‐sanding effect as well as a good sand blasting effect. The most crucial thing for the resin treated fabrics is the strength loss if they will be applied handsanding or sand blasting. Like resins,hand sanding and sand blasting also causes strength loss.For this reason,on the fabrics which will be done handsanding or sand blasting,along with Denires CUBE , Denires U-‐TEAR , Denicoat DERM also advised to be used.
- 5. DBDENIM B O O K RESIN PROCESSES FOR INDIGO DYED GARMENTS It is one of the most dangerous process in a washing plant.Resin processes are applied to a garment for different processes.These are ; Permanent 3-‐D Grey cast Unwashed appereance Different handles. After the application of resin,the temperature is increased and condensation is completed. the process is all about giving a new form to a garment and then making it permanent. In that sense this is a permanent process which means ther is no chance to correct the faulty garments. MOST COMMON PROBLEMS 1. Strength loss and tearing 2. Temporary 3-‐D 3. Lighter shade or turning of the cast into blue 4. Failure of formaldehyte test 5. Differences in production To solve these problems,first the chemistry of the process must be understood. As mentioned before,the aim of the process is to give a new format to the fibre and keeping it permanently.This happens at 150 °C and meanwhile due to the catalayst the pH falls down. Theorically cellulosic fiber breaks down at high temperature and low pH which is not required practically. For this reason the conditions must be controlled as much as possible and some auxilaries must be used.
- 6. DB DENIM B O O K AUXILARIS AND FACTORS 1. TEMPERATURE It is one of the most important factors.The temperature must be increased upto 150 °C and kept stable till the reaction is completed. The important thing is the temperature of the surface of the fabric not the oven temperature. The temperature of the oven will be adjusted according to the humidity of the fabric,the in-‐oven time and weaving of the fabric.If it is higher than 160 °C then the strength loss will be more and if the temperature is less than 150 °C,then permanency problem will come up. 2. FABRIC TYPE The strength of the fabric at the beginning should be high and there shouldn’t be any alkali on the fabric as it will disturb the pH. 3. OVEN To avoid the failure from the formaldehyte and differences in production,there should be enough ventilation inside of the oven and the air should be thrown out regularly. 4. RESIN TYPES Resins and auxilaries are subject after all the above conditions have been ensured. Generally 2 types of resins are being used in the market; a. Catalayst built-‐in resins as Denires CUBE b. Resins without catalayst as Denires CUBE-‐NC Practically the catalayst gives extra stiffness to the fabric but that doesn’t mean the more catalayst,the better permanancy But the more catalayst means the Lower pH and lower strength.This problem won’t be faced with the resins that Have catalayts in as the adjustment of the amount of the catalayst is done properly.
- 7. DB DENIM B O O K 5. AUXILARIES Denires U-‐TEAR : Decreases the strength loss.Mixture of acrilates and gives grey cast. Denires U-‐HRD : Harder version of Denires U-‐TEAR Denıres TRITON : Wrinkle Resistant Agent Denicoat DERM : Polyethilene emulsions are very useful to avoid the strength loss and to increase extra strength after its loss.But it must be remembered that,if it is used at the beginning of the process,it decreases the unit amount of resin on the fabric and effects the permanancy of the 3-‐D ina negative way. Denires CUBE-‐ML : Special chemical for cross-‐linking.It increases the unit amount of the resin on the fabric.In some cases they ensure that the temperature of the oven drops down by 15-‐25 °C and still the reaction continues.This is helpful with the garments where the strength loss is inevitable. Denisoft VIVID : Increases the brightness of the fabric after resin applications.effects the strength positively and as it is a reactive silicone,washing permanancy is high.
- 8. DB DENIM B O O K Denires CUBE Deni Res CUBE Product Line Product Group Resin Name
- 9. DB DENIM B O O K SPRAYING RESIN 150 gr Denires CUBE 50 gr Denires U-‐TEAR 800 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min If a brighter look is required, 20-‐50 gr/lt Denisoft VIVID is added into the solution. The above solution is made 1 liter by water.Then it is applied onto the fabric by spraying and the crinkles are formed and baking procedures start.
- 10. DB DENIM B O O K DIPPING RESIN Denires CUBE : 75 g/l Denires U-‐TEAR : 25 g/l Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min The solution is prepared according to the above ratios.The trousers are dipped into the solution. After keeping them in the solution for about 5-‐15 min,they are taken out and hung on the hangers for about 10-‐30 min. to ensure that the excessive amount of resin will flow down. Then the crinkles are formed and the baking is done.
- 11. DB DENIM B O O K WASHING MACHINE RESIN Denires CUBE : 50 – 80 g/l Denires U-‐TEAR : 25 – 50 g/l Deniwet ZEN : 1 g/l Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min Liqour : 1/4 or 1/10 Temperature : 25 º C The above solution is prepared.1 trousers is weighed. Then water is taken into the machine and the chemical solution is given into the machine. After the machine runs a few seconds,the trousers are put in the machine and run about 5-‐15 min. Then the bath is dropped and the machine does exctraction.(Crease risk at extractor).After the exctraction has been completedone of the trousers is weighed again and if it has %50-‐65 of its weight of resin then the baking process is applied.
- 12. DBDENIM B O O K BAKING PROCESS • After the permanent crinkles are done and the garments are clipsed, • They are put in the oven at 100 -‐120 C for 15-‐ 25 min.Then the garments are taken out of the oven,the clipses are undone and put in back in the oven again at 155-‐160 °C for 10-‐20 min.In this point 2 parameters are crucial; 1.Oven Temperature : The temperature inside of the oven. 2.Fabric Temperature: The temperature reached on the surface of the fabric. There are 2 types of timing: 1.Baking Time : The duration of the garments staying inside of the ove 2.Reaction Time : The duration after the temperature of the garment is reached up to required temperature • For example in an conveyored oven where the entrance into the oven and exit out of the oven is 15 min.,the reaction time would be around 5-‐6 min. • The same thing happens in the chambered ovens,too.For this reason,the temperature on the surface of the garment must be considered and the calibration of the oven must be done regularly. Calibration is done with thermal papers and they are placed on the garment as follows: Waist Band Area : As this area is thick it will take more time to reach to the desired temperature.So the thermal paper must be placed right above this area. Knee Area : Thermal paper must be placed right in the middle of this area Leg Area : Thermal paper must be placed around 1 cm above the leg If 3 garment having those thermal papers placed on them are placed in the front,middle and back of the oven,the temperature circulation of the oven can be measured properly.
- 13. DBDENIM B O O K DENIMIST PRODUCTS FOR RESIN FINISHING Denires CUBE : Reactive Resin With Catalyst Denires CUBE-‐ NF : Non Formaldehyde Resin Without Catalyst Denires CUBE-‐ML : Self –Cross Linking Denires U-‐TEAR : Soft PU & Acrylate Denires U-‐HRD : Hard Acrylate Denires TRITON : Wrinkle Resistant Agent Denires CUBE-‐NC : Self Cross-‐Linking ( Catalyst -‐Free ) Denifix BOND-‐DR : Special Fixing-‐agent For Getting Dark Cast Indigo Denicoat 1415 : Polyurethane Emulsion For Soft Handle Denicoat 1500 : Polyurethane Emulsion For Soft Handle Denicoat CORE-‐TR : Polyurethane Emulsion For Soft Handle Denicoat 1507 : Polyurethane Emulsion For Soft Hand And Shinny Effect Denicoat DERM : Polyethylene Emulsion Deniart TRINITY : Special product for brillant effect Denisoft VIVID-‐U : Concentrated Macro Silicone Emulsion
- 14. DB DENIM B O O K RECIPE OF THE DENIRES CUBE 1. STANDARD RESIN APLICATION 200 gr Denires CUBE 100 gr Denires U-‐TEAR 700 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min. 2. RESIN APPLICATION fOR HIGH 3 D 200 gr Denires CUBE 100 gr Denires U-‐TEAR 20 gr Denires TRITON 680 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min. 3. RESIN APPLICATIONS FOR HIGH STRENGTH 200 gr Denires CUBE 100 gr Denires U-‐TEAR 100 gr Denires DERM-‐H 600 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min.
- 15. DB DENIM B O O K 4. RESIN APPLICATION AT LOW TEMPERATURE FOR HIGH STRENGTH 200 gr Denires CUBE 100 gr Denirea U-‐TEAR 20 gr Denires TRITON 10 gr Denires CUBE-‐ML 670 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 135 °C for 15 min. 5. RESIN APPLICATION FOR ULTRA GREY CAST 200 gr Denires CUBE 100 gr Denires U-‐TEAR 100 gr Denires BOND-‐I 550 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min. 6. RESIN APPLICATIONS FOR EXTRA BRIGHT LOOK 200 gr Denires CUBE 150 gr Denicoat DERM-‐H 100 gr Denisoft VIVID 500 gr Water Drying at 100 °C for 15 min. Curing at 155 °C for 15 min.
- 16. DB DENIM B O O K APPLICATIONS TO INCREASE THE STRENGTH 7. STANDARD APPLICATIONS TO INCREASE THE STRENGTH 5 gr/lt Denicoat DERM Temperature: 35 – 40 °C Time : 15 -‐ 20 min. Drain -‐ exctract -‐ dry Recipe 8 :For extra strength increase 3 -‐ 5 gr/lt Denires U-‐TEAR 3 -‐ 5 gr/lt Denicoat DERM temperature: 35 – 40 °C Time : 15 -‐ 20 min Drain – Exctract -‐ Dry 9. FOR ALREADY RESIN APPLIED WASHED BUT HAVING STRENGTH FAILURE GARMENTS Firstly 8 gr/lt SODA ASH temperature : 40-‐ 45 °C Time : 5 min. Drain Rinsing at 50 – 55 °C for 2 min. -‐ drain Secodly 5 gr/lt Denires U-‐TEAR 5 gr/lt Denicoat DERM temperature: 35 – 40 °C Time : 10 -‐ 15 min. Drain -‐ Extract -‐ Drying
- 17. DB DENIM B O O K FABRIC PROPERTIES Changes in fabric properties are related to the number of crosslinks imparted to the fiber. Improvements in wrinkle recovery and DP ratings, and reduction in residual shrinkage are proportional to the number of crosslinks. Losses in strength and abrasion resistance are also related to the number of crosslinks and to the degree of cellulose damage by the acid catalyst. The number of cross-‐links is influenced by the add-‐on, (the amount of reagent deposited on the fabric) and the degree of curing (percentage of the amount applied that become actual cross-‐links). The degree of curing is influenced by the chemical structure of the reagent, the type of catalyst, the ratio of catalyst to resin, the presence of buffers and the time and temperature of cure. A. DURABLE PRESS PERFORMANCE VERSUS ADD-‐ON The most obvious way to increase DP performance is to add more finish to the fabric. The relationships between fabric performance and add-‐on of DMDHEU can be seen in figures 46. Figure 46 shows that both wet and dry wrinkle recovery improvewith increasing concentration of reagent in the bath. Also shown is the relationship between DP rating (fabric smoothness) and add-‐on.
- 18. DB DENIM B O O K 1. IMPORTANT POINTS There is a sharp increase in wrinkle recovery with increasing resin level. As bath concentration approaches 7 % DMDHEU (15-‐20 % commercial product in bath),wrinkle recovery and DP Rating begin to levels-‐off. Above this level, the rate of improvement is less rapid and only modest gains are obtained with massive amountsof resin. Rela:onship of DP Performance versus DMDHEU Add-‐on
- 19. DB DENIM B O O K B. EFFECTIVENESS OF DIFFERENT CROSSLINKERS How many cross-‐links does it take to obtain optimum performance? Are some cross-‐linkers more effective than others? The answer to these questions can be seen in figure 47. Figure 47 is a composite chart where wrinkle recovery is plotted against the concentration (expressed as millimoles of reagent per 100 grams of fabric) of a number of different reagents. It is interesting to note that one curve fits all the data points. Wrinkle recover levels-‐off at 2 to 2.5 millimoles of reagent. While DMDHEU was not included in figure 16, 6 to 7% weight add-‐on calculates to be 2 to 2.5 millimoles per 100 grams of fabric and so it too follows the same general trends. Crease Recovery versus Resin Concentra:on
- 20. DBDENIM B O O K C. TENSILE TEAR AND ABRASION RESISTANCE Losses in tensile, tear and abrasion resistance in 100% cotton are directly related to the number of cross-‐links, The relationship between abrasion resistance,tensile and tear strength versus resin add-‐on is seen in figure 48. The trends established in these curves mirror those seen in figures 46 and 47, except these are going the opposite direction. The steep part of each curve appears to level off at 15 % commercial DMDHEU (7 % bath solids) in the bath. Improved DP properties also tend to level off at this concentration. Strength and abrasion resistance losses will amount to between 30 to 60 % of the original fabric values Physical Proper:es versus Add-‐On
- 21. DB DENIM B O O K Abrasion Resistance
- 22. DB DENIM B O O K D. Crease Recovery versus Curing Temperature The relationship between crease recovery and temperature of cure is shown in figure 49. The temperature required to obtain cross-‐linking is very much a function of the reactant structure. The reactant structures included in figure 18 fall into two groups, easy to cure and hard to cure. U/F and DMEU fall into the easy to cure category. Curing starts as soon as the fabric is dry. These reagents would not be suitable for delay cure where one needs the resin to remain unreacted until after the garment is made and pressed. DMDHEU and carbamates fall in the hard to cure category where curing temperatures must exceed 1300 C. DMDHEU has been successfully used in delay cure applications. The fabric can be handled on commercial ranges where nearly all of the resin is still uncured after dryin Crease Recovery versus Temperature of Cure and Resin
- 23. DB DENIM B O O K E. OTHER FABRIC PROPERTIES 1. SHRINKAGE Much of a fabric's residual shrinkage is the result of tensions applied to the fabric during wet processing. Some woven fabrics will shrink both in width and length during preparation and dyeing. These must be pulled out to maintain width and yardage yields. These stresses add to residual shrinkage. Knit goods are inherently wrinkle resistant; however, some are pulled out to a width wider than the fabric's knitted gauge and this too adds to residual shrinkage. Much of the stress induced shrinkage can be eliminated by mechanically compacting the fabric. Compacting will result in reduced yardage yields. Crosslinking also reduces fabric shrinkage. For this reason, chemical stabilization of cellulosic fabric has real economic value. Without resin finishes, the fabrics described here will have excessively high residual shrinkage. Fortunately, a good resin finish will stabilize the fabric and reduce the residual shrinkage to less than 2%. The degree of stabilization required by chemical finishes will depend on the fabric's previous history. In some cases, much more finish is applied than one would reasonably consider simply to keep residual shrinkage within the required tolerances. In these cases, reduced shrinkage is the real reason for DP finishes rather than wrinkle resistance or no-‐iron features. 2. YELLOWING Yellowing of DP finished fabrics can be caused by a number of condi:ons. For example, excessive curing temperatures and /or excessive catalyst will scorch cellulosic fabrics. Some reactants have color bodies that cause yellowing. Usually nitrogenous compounds discolor with heat. Buffers are oRen added to commercial finishes to combat yellowing problems.
- 24. DB DENIM B O O K 3. CHLORINE RESISTANCE The term chlorine resistance encompasses two problems, yellowing of fabric by the bleach and tendering (strength loss). Nitrogenous finishes will react with hypochlorite bleaches to form a reaction product (chloramides) that decomposes with heat. These chloramides liberate hydrochloric acid which degrade cellulose. Fabric develops the characteristic scorched look and the fibers become very weak. Residual -‐NH groups are responsible for the formation of chloramides. Resins and reactants with residual -‐NH groups and cross-‐links that hydrolyze in laundering are especially prone to pick-‐up chlorine from a bleach bath. Both tendering and scorching are caused by the breakdown of the chloramide with heat to form hydrochloric acid. The reactions can be written as follows:
- 25. DB DENIM BOOK Head Office : Kazimiye Mah. Karadeniz Cad. Kiliçoğlu Al:n Evler No: 37/5/21 Çorlu / Tekirdağ / TURKEY Ph: 90 282 673 62 40 Fax : 90 282 673 59 75 eyup@denimist.com.tr Factory : Motor Yerleri Mevkii E-‐5 Uzeri Ulaş / Corlu / Tekirdag / TURKEY mustafa@denimist.com.tr Pakistan : Plot No: 2/C Lane No: 3 Itehad Coom Phase – VI D.H.A Karachi / PAKISTAN Ph: 92-‐21-‐37820980 – 35348720 Cell : 92-‐300-‐214430 tanveer@denimist.com.tr Bangladesh : Road 36 , House 15, F4, Gulshan 2, Dhaka /BANGLADESH Cell: 8801741393879 serkan@denimist.com.tr