session 9 - garment SEAM CLASSIFICATION.ppt
- 2. What is Seam ??? A seam is a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two or more pieces of material(s) and is used for assembling parts in the production of sewn items. Joint = stitches + 2 or more pcs. of material
- 3. Seam Classes As per Federal Government Standard 751a Four Seam Classes- Superimposed Seam Lapped Seam Bound Seam Flat Seam Two Stitching Classes- Edge Finishing Ornamental Stitching
- 4. Superimposed Seam The superimposed seam (SS) class is formed by joining two or more pieces of fabric, usually with seam allowance edges even and one piece superimposed over the second.
- 8. Superimposed Seam Types SSd-Not common. SSe- Runstitch & Topstitch- For making collars & cuffs on shirts; attaching front pockets, bagging front pockets, setting fly on chinos, etc.
- 9. Superimposed Seam Types SSd-Not common. SSe- Runstitch & Topstitch- For making collars & cuffs on shirts; attaching front pockets, bagging front pockets, setting fly on chinos, etc. SSf-Butt Seam & Tape- For butt seaming & taping heel seams on shoes, etc. SSh- Seaming & Cover seaming- For cover seaming knit tops, undergarments to reinforce seam and give it a decorative appearance.
- 10. Superimposed Seam Types SSj-For attaching a zipper tape between shell and facing. SSk- Seam with Piping-For seam apparel, furniture with piping in seam. SSl- For setting front pockets on jeans. SSn- Hem Seam- For seaming fabrics that may be susceptible to seam slippage.
- 11. Superimposed Seam Types SSp- Hem Seam - For seaming fabrics that may be susceptible to seam slippage. SSq- Seam, Fold & Cord-For attaching yokes to back or shoulder joining on shirts, blouses, etc. Similar to LSe but done in 2 steps. SSs-Hemming and attaching zipper tape.
- 12. Superimposed Seam Types SSt- For seaming knitted or woven elastic to boxers and gym shorts. SSv-Not common. SSw- Mock Felled Seam - For side seaming shirts, blouses, dresses, etc.
- 13. Lapped Seam The lapped seam (LS) class is defined as two or more pieces of fabric joined by overlapping at the needle.
- 14. Lapped Seam Types LSa- Lap seaming- Attaching knitted cuffs – generally sewn with a coverstitch - 605 or 607. LSb- Not as common as LSq where piece is attached and then corded or topstitched. My T-shirt!! LSc- Felled Seam - Seaming jeans, shirts, jackets, etc. Generally, with a two or three needle 401 Chain stitch. LSd- Patch Pocket Setting - For setting patch pockets, flaps, pocket facings, etc., generally, with a 301 Lockstitch.
- 15. Lapped Seam Types SSe- Yoking - Seaming yokes to back on shirts or blouses in one operation. Not as common as SSq. SSf- Yoking-Seaming yokes to back on shirts or blouses in one operation. SSg-Two Piece Waistband-Attaching a waistband to chinos or work pants. SSj-Two Piece Waistband-Attaching a waistband to chinos or work pants. Fusing, interlining
- 16. Lapped Seam Types LSk- Waist banding on pajamas; making rod pocket on curtains & shower curtains, etc. LSl- Joining bib to pants of bib overall in 1 operation. LSm-Set- On Center Plait- Attaching set-on center plaits to shirts and blouses. LSn- Not common.
- 17. Lapped Seam Types LSq- Seam & Cord Seam- Side seam on jeans; chinos; jackets, etc. LSr- Sleeve Set- Setting sleeves on dress shirts or blouses. LSs-Patch Pocket Setting- For setting large patch pockets on suit coats, overcoats, and jackets. LSz-Joining & Taping- Joining & taping fronts of knit briefs & thermal underwear.
- 18. Bound Seam The bound seam (BS) Class requires a separate piece of fabric that encompasses the edge of one or more pieces of the garment.
- 19. Bound Seam Types BSa- Binding carpets, etc, with selvedge edge binding. BSb- Setting collarettes on tee shirts; binding legs and fly on knit briefs, etc. Usually sewn with a 406 bottom cover stitch. BSc- Waist banding on Jeans-For setting sleeve facings to shirts, piping edges of outerwear, etc. Can be sewn with a 301 lockstitch or 401 Chain stitch. BSd- Seaming with selvedge edge binding on outerwear.
- 20. Bound Seam Types BSe- Seaming and binding on outerwear. BSj- Sewn in 2 operations - Mock clean, finish binding. BSg- Sewn in 2 operations - Mock clean, finish binding.
- 21. Flat Seam The flat seam (FS) class is the smallest class. The formation of this seam occurs with the butting together of two pieces of fabric, but not overlapping them.
- 22. Flat Seam Types FSa- Flat seaming - Flat seaming underwear, fleece, exercise wear, etc. Generally, sewn with a 607 stitch. Sometimes a 606 Flatlock Stitch. Fsf- Bolt-end seaming with a 501 Stitch.
- 23. Stitching Classes In this class the stitching is performed on a single piece of fabric. The fabric may be folded in variety of ways so the stitching may be through more than one thickness
- 24. Stitching Classes Two Stitching Classes- Edge Finishing Ornamental Stitching
- 25. Edge Finishing Edge finishing (EF) is stitching that encompasses the cut edge or provides a finish for a single ply of fabric with a folded edge configuration.
- 26. Edge Finishing Types EFa- Hemming selvedge edge, shirtfront. EFb-Clean Finish Hem-Hemming shirts, jeans, shorts, etc. EFc- Blindhemming-Hemming bottoms of tee shirts, undershirts, etc. usually sewn with a 503 Stitch. EFd- Serging- Serging pants panels, fly facings, etc.
- 27. Edge Finishing Types EFe- Serge & Hem-Serging edges of napkins, sheer curtains, etc. EFf- Hem & Insert- Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc. EFg-Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc. EFh- Belt loops- Making belt loops for jeans and casual pants, shorts, etc. usually sewn with 406 stitch.
- 28. Edge Finishing Types EFj- Making straps or belts with clean finish. EFl- Blindstitch Hem- Hemming dresses, slacks, coats,and bedspreads. Generally, sewn with 103 blindstitch. EFm- Blindstitch Hem- Hemming Dresses, slacks, coats, and bedspreads. Generally, sewn with 103 blindstitch. EFn- Making straps or belts with clean finish.
- 29. Edge Finishing Types EFp- Making straps or belts with clean finish. EFq-Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc. EFr-Tunneled elastic- Hem and insert elastic to infant panties, etc. EFu- Making Spaghetti- Making straps. Stitch is hidden and not visible.
- 30. Edge Finishing Types EFv- Centerplaiting- Cut-on centerplait. Generally, sewn with 2 rows of 401 stitch. EFy- Making straps or belts with clean finish. EFz- Making straps or belts with clean finish.
- 31. Ornamental Stitching Ornamental stitching may be used on a single ply for decorative purposes. It can be done anywhere except the edge.
- 32. Ornamental Stitching Types OSa- Decorative Stitching-Decorative stitch back pockets on jeans; saddle stitching. OSf- Sewing Darts- Dart panel on slacks, chinos, blouses, etc.
- 33. Seam Appearance Is evaluated on the following factors: Drapability- is affected by the flexibility of materials and seam construction. Seams need the same amount of drapability as the rest of the garment. Use of heavy thread, complex seam structures mainly contribute to the rigidity of a seam.
- 34. Seam Appearance Consistency of stitch & seam formation- very critical to garment appearance as irregularity affects the shape of the garment and can cause poor fit and unsightly appearance.
- 35. Seam Appearance Seam Flatness- A flat seam is free of fabric creases, waviness and pucker. Some factors affecting seam flatness may be controlled by pressing, top stitching and cover stitching.
- 36. Seam Performance Relates to the elasticity, strength and flexibility of a seam. Elasticity- Involves two factors-elongation and recovery. Seam elasticity is the degree that a seam recovers to its original length immediately after elongation.
- 37. Seam Performance Elongation is the amount that a seam can be stretched without breaking. Recovery is the return of its original length when the stress is removed.
- 38. Seam Performance Strength- is important factor in determining the durability of a garment and determined by the pulling force & abrasion Seam Tenacity is the force necessary to break the fabric or the weakest stitch of a seam
- 39. Seam Performance Seam abrasion resistance is the amount of rubbing action needed to wear away stitches in the seam Seam strength is related to stitch type, thread strength & tension, seam type & width and spi