Variation in linear density of combed yarn due to dyeing with reactive dye in different shade percentages

IJRET: International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology eISSN: 2319-1163 | pISSN: 2321-7308
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Volume: 03 Issue: 01 | Jan-2014, Available @ http://www.ijret.org 268
VARIATION IN LINEAR DENSITY OF COMBED YARN DUE TO
DYEING WITH REACTIVE DYE IN DIFFERENT SHADE
PERCENTAGES
Abu Naser Md. Ahsanul Haque1
, Md. Arafat Hossain2
, Md. Azharul Islam3
1,2
Lecturer,Department of Textile Engineering, BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh,
3
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Abstract
Though yarn dyeing is a significant part of wet processing, it still has some major obstacles. It loses its weight as well as strength
due to wet treatment. A study on the changes of linear density in combed yarn due to different shade percentages of reactive dye
has been conducted and the results are statistically analyzed. Remazol Red RR, Remazol Yellow RR and Remazol Blue RR were
used for this experiment. The study reveals that dye shade percentage effects on the linear density negatively. Before 2.5% shade
the yarn loss is greater and after 3.5% shade linear density also decreases. 2.5% to 3.5% shade percentage can be taken as the
range where loss of linear density is much less than the other percentages. The lowest loss percentage was found for 3% shade for
every dyestuff among which Remazol Red RR was the least.
Key Words: Combed yarn, Loss percentage, Shade, Linear density.
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1. INTRODUCTION
Linear density or count is widely used term in Textile
industry when it comes to define fabric construction and yarn
specification (weight per unit length or length per unit
weight) those are made using staple fibers or filaments. The
art of dyeing is a branch of applied chemistry in which a use
of both physical and chemical principle is made in order to
bring about a permanent union between the dyes and the
textile material. Most usually we see the use of solid dyeing
method for the coloration of fabrics that are used in textile
industries. But yarn dyeing has a very exceptional identity.
Though solid dyeing is much applied but the yarn dyeing has
create the opportunity to make the fabric with different color
where in solid dyeing several color effect cannot be imparted.
Yarn dyeing is very much popular for the woven fabric
especially for the check and stripe fabrics and used to
produce stripe in knit fabric also.
Several researchers work with cotton yarn damage and count
variations. Shaid A. et al. [1] investigated the shade
variation, density variation and package dia variation.
Package weight variation in yarn dyeing and focused on the
various machine setting parameters of yarn dyeing machine.
On another paper Karim S.K et al.[2] worked with melange
yarn and suggested that it was found out that flock dyeing
increases fibre damage when compared with grey fibres. The
higher degree of damage of the dyed cotton fibres mixed with
white ones has a negative effect on the quality of the melange
cotton yarn.
Singh G et al. [3] concluded on his research that square root
of linear density influences the dimensional parameters to
variable degrees. This paper also observed that dimensional
parameters also influences by stitch length, machine gauge
and twist factor of yarn. William et al. [4] worked with the
fibre length disturbance of yarn which causes the weight loss
of yarn and reported that changes in a typical portion of fibre
length distribution of fibre arrays of 50 samples of raw cotton
and 65 of corresponding grey cloth and yarn are not of such a
character as to affect the reliability of the estimates of staple
length. Koo et al. [5] showed that the average elongation,
fibre length and tenacity decreases after pre-treatment and
this decrement of properties influences to loss the weight of
yarn after dyeing. Behara et al. [6] investigated that after
dyeing of spun cotton yarn the broken fibre amount was
higher than that of cotton bale. It indicates that the strength at
break of dyed fibre in yarn was weaker than cotton fibre in
bale. This broken and weak fibre causes the weight reduction
of yarn after dyeing. Moghassem A. R [7] suggested on his
paper that fiber length by number and weight of grey cotton
was longer than that of dyed cotton, while the amount of
fiber nep and short fiber content of dyed cotton were more
than those of grey cotton.
Dyed cotton yarns are used in Ready-made garments,
Hosiery industries, Bag closing industry, Sports goods,
Umbrella and carpet making, Book binding, Handloom
textiles, Furnishing textiles, etc. But being so popular, a dyed
yarn is less strong than a grey yarn. For the reason the speed
of a weaving machine or a knitting machine are kept lower
for the dyed yarn so that it does not breaks regularly. The
paper tried to find out how yarn dyeing effects on the linear
density of a yarn. The test is made on the cotton yarn by
different shade percentages of three reactive dyes and
summarized.

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2. MATERIAL & METHOD
2.1 Materials & Sample Preparation
For this process first 30 Ne combed yarn was taken & tested
for some of its major properties. The results are furnished in
table 1. After testing them 24 yarn samples of 500 meter
length were taken. They all divided into three groups. Each
group is for a single color with different shade percentages.
Each one is folded in small size and knotted in two ends so
that they do not become disheveled in wet treatment. Then
they are individually scoured-bleached in single stage method
with 5.0 g/L NaOH, 1.0 g/L detergent, 5 g/L Hydrogen per
oxide, 1.0 g/L acetic acid, 0.5 g/L stabilizer and 1.0 g/L
sequestering agent. The process continued 60 minutes in 95⁰c
and material- liquor ratio was 1:8. Then they are cold washed
and dried in a sample dryer at 60⁰c.
Table-1: Properties of 30Ne comb yarn
Properties Tests Results Average
Twist factor Test 1 33.18
31.36Test 2 30.2
Test 3 30.7
Tenacity
mN/Tex
Test 1 161.5
159.7Test 2 159.5
Test 3 158
Elongation at
break %
Test 1 4
4.07Test 2 4.2
Test 3 4
Unevenness,
U%
Test 1 9
9Test 2 9
Test 3 9
Thick
Place/1000m
Test 1 22
25.67Test 2 30
Test 3 25
Thin
Place/1000m
Test 1 0
0.33Test 2 0
Test 3 1
Neps/1000m
Test 1 51
53Test 2 63
Test 3 45
After the successful pretreatment they are weighted in a
electric balance. Then Remazol red RR, Remazol blue RR &
Remazol yellow RR these 3 dyes are taken and 24 samples
were dyed with 8 different shade percentages on the weight
of the yarn. The selected shade percentages were 0.5%, 1.0%,
1.5%, 2.0%, 2.5%, 3.0%, 3.5% and 4.0%. And there are
certainly different amount of dyeing auxiliaries for different
shade percentages as practiced generally. For 0.5% shade,
6.0g/L NaOH & 30 g/L NaCl, for 1.0% shade, 8.0g/L NaOH
& 40 g/L NaCl, for 1.5% shade, 10.0g/L NaOH & 45 g/L
NaCl, for 2.0% shade,11.0g/L NaOH & 50 g/L NaCl, for
2.5% shade,12.0g/L NaOH & 55 g/L NaCl, for 3.0%
shade,14.0g/L NaOH & 60 g/L NaCl, for 3.5% shade,
14.0g/L NaOH & 65 g/L NaCl, and for 4.0% shade, 15.0g/L
NaOH & 70 g/L NaCl is added for exhaustion & fixation.
Dyeing is done for 1 hour in 60⁰c with a M: L ratio of 1:8.
The dyeing was done in a industry dyeing lab in a closed bath
sample dyeing machine. After that the samples treated
through a cold wash and a hot wash (70⁰c) with 1.0g/L
detergent and again a cold wash respectively. After that they
are dried in a sample dryer at 60⁰c. Then the above
specimens are conditioned for 72 hours in a standard
atmosphere of 27 2c and 65 2% RH.
2.2 Sample Analysis Procedure
The target is to determine how the linear density of a yarn
behaves with different shade percentages of a dye. So the
Loss% of the linear density of a yarn due to dyeing can be
calculated as-
Values of loss% for each dye for each shade percentages are
noted and shown in the table 3. After getting the values of the
Loss%, graphs has been made by plotting the Loss% in y-
axis and shade percentage in x-axis. The graphs (Figure 1, 2,
3 & 4) can show the relation between weight loss% of yarn
with the increasing shade percentages of the dyes.
Table-2: Weight loss% of 30 Ne comb yarn after dyeing for
different dyes at different shade%
Dyes Shade%
Before
dyeing
weight
(gm)
After
dyeing
weight
(gm)
Loss%
Remazol
Red RR
0.5 9.89 9.30 5.97%
1.0 9.86 9.34 5.27%
1.5 9.87 9.46 4.15%
2.0 9.88 9.50 3.85%
2.5 9.86 9.53 3.35%
3.0 9.85 9.61 2.44%
3.5 9.84 9.49 3.56%
4.0 9.86 9.48 3.85%
4.5 9.87 9.44 4.36%
5.0 9.85 9.42 4.37%
Remazol
Yellow
RR
0.5 9.90 9.32 5.86%
1.0 9.88 9.35 5.36%
1.5 9.83 9.40 4.37%
2.0 9.87 9.48 3.95%
2.5 9.85 9.51 3.45%
3.0 9.86 9.57 2.94%
3.5 9.88 9.50 3.85%
4.0 9.89 9.47 4.25%
4.5 9.84 9.42 4.27%
5.0 9.87 9.43 4.46%
Remazol
Blue RR
0.5 9.85 9.33 5.28%
1.0 9.86 9.36 5.07%
1.5 9.88 9.41 4.76%
2.0 9.84 9.45 3.96%
2.5 9.88 9.52 3.64%
3.0 9.87 9.58 2.94%
3.5 9.86 9.52 3.45%
4.0 9.88 9.47 4.15%
4.5 9.83 9.42 4.17%
5.0 9.86 9.43 4.36%

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3. RESULT & DISCUSSION
Here we get almost very similar results for all the dyestuffs.
They all started with a great fiber loss. Then the curves go
down that means loss of linear density comes down with the
increase of dye percentage. In compare with fabric dyeing,
we see that fabric GSM increases after dyeing due to dye take
up. But in case of yarn, strength is lost due to wastage of
fiber and after increasing the dye shade percentage, the take
up also increases. For that reason the yarn gains some weight
and linear density increases.
Figure 1: Effect of shade% of Remazol Red RR on weight
loss% in linear density
Figure 2: Effect of shade% of Remazol Yellow RR on
weight loss% in linear density
Figure 3: Effect of shade% of Remazol Blue RR on weight
loss% in linear density
Figure 4: Comparison among Remazol Red RR, Yellow RR
& Blue RR against weight loss% in linear density
From figure 1, figure 2, figure 3 & table 2, it is clear that in
every case higher weight of yarn (Remazol Red RR= 9.61
gm, Remazol Yellow RR= 9.57 gm, Remazol Blue RR= 9.58
gm) was observed at 3% shade after dyeing. It was also
observed that up to 3% shade loss% of linear density
decreases and after that loss% increases. In addition, it was
also perceived that the ratio of loss% from 0.5% shade to 3%
shade is higher than the ratio of loss% from 3% shade to 5%
shade. Figure 4 shows the summary of all dyes and it
confirms that minimum loss% of linear density is found for
Remazol Red RR (2.44%) at 3% shade where at 3% shade
Remazol Yellow RR and Remazol Blue RR shows 2.94%
loss.
Now the question is why there is such a point. For all the
three dyeing 3% shade of dye gave the lower loss of yarn.
And 2.5% and 3.5% shade% gave the value closer to the
lowest. So we can identify the range 2.5%-3.5% as the area
where yarn losses its linear density in a lower limit.
May be it is because, how much fiber have been lost are
recovered in sense of weight by this range of shade%. Before
this range yarn cannot recover its loss of weight because it

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does not get sufficient amount of dyes. Moreover the loss
gradually increases after this range in a lower rate. With the
increase of dye shade% the amount of salt and NaOH are also
increases. So this lost must be because of the high amount of
NaOH, which can hydrolyze the cellulose at a high
concentration.
4. CONCLUSIONS
Yarn dyeing is needed highly for the exceptional design
perspective. If we can do the dyeing with less harm to the
yarn surface, that will be better both for the weaving and
knitting process. After the experiment we can come to the
following conclusion-
1. Linear density of yarn must be lost due to dyeing.
2. Loss is greater before 2.5% of shade percentage.
3. Loss also increases slowly after 3.5% shade
percentage.
4. So 2.5%-3.5% shade can said as safe zone for yarn.
5. Before or after the safe zone we should take extra
care or can use related chemicals to keep the yarn
more safe.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The authors gratefully acknowledge the help & support from
Impress-Newtex Composite Textile Ltd, Gorai, Mirzapur,
Tangail, Bangladesh.
REFERENCES
[1].Abu Shaid,Md. Abdus Shahid, Md. Abdur Rahman
Bhuiyan, Md. Abdullahil Kafi, Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir,
Md. Azijur Rahman, International Journal of Engineering &
Technology IJET-IJENS, Vol: 11 No:1 PP: 241-248.
[2].S. Karbalaie Karim, A. A. Gharehaghaji, H. Tavanaie, A
Study of the Damage Caused to Dyed Cotton Fibres and its
Effects on the Properties of Rotor- and Ring-Spun Melange
Yarns, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, July/September
2007, Vol.15, No. 3, PP:63-67.
[3].G. Singh, K Roy, R Varshney & A Goyal, Dimensional
parameters of single jersey cotton knitted fabrics, Indian
Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol, 36, June 2011, PP:
111-116.
[4].Williams J.F., Vlases G. and Fielding H., ‘The effect of
manufacturing processes on the fibre length distribution and
staple length of raw cotton used in grey yarn and grey cloth’,
Textile Research Journal, 1950, PP: 719-725
[5].Koo J. G., Park, J.W. and An S.K., ‘Properties of
specialty yarns based on raw and dyed cotton’, Textile
Research Journal, vol. 73, 2003, PP: 26-30.
[6].Berberi, P.G. 1991, ‘Effect of lubrication on spinning
properties of dyed cotton fibers’, Text. Res. J, vol. 61, May,
PP: 285-288.
[7].A.R. Moghassem, Study on the Dyed Cotton Fibers
Damage in Spinning Processes and its Effect on the Cotton
Mélange Yarn Properties, RJTA Vol. 12 No. 1 2008, PP: 71-
78.
BIOGRAPHIES
Abu Naser Md. Ahsanul Haque
completed his graduation from College
of Textile Technology, University of
Dhaka. His area of interest textile wet
process. He has 4+ years of teaching
experience.
Md. Arafat Hossain finished his
graduation from Ahsanullah University
of Science & Technology. He has more
than 4 years of teaching experience and
previously worked as quality
inspection & audit officer in a
multinational company.
Md. Azharul Islam completed his
graduation from College of Textile
Technology, University of Dhaka. His
interest area in textile is fabric
manufacturing technology. He has
teaching experience over 4 years and
currently working at Daffodil
International University.

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Variation in linear density of combed yarn due to dyeing with reactive dye in different shade percentages