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21. Although the majority of the Cayuse had become concerned with the
events of that autumn, only a few extremists took part in planning an
attack on the mission. As November 1847 drew to a close both the
whites at the mission and the Cayuse leaders knew that a crisis was
at hand. This crisis grew out of a conflict between two groups holding
opposing ideas, each believing itself to be right. The Whitmans
believed they were fulfilling a destiny that God had determined for
them. The Cayuse believed they were doing what was necessary to
defend and preserve their land and their way of life.
22. 67
The Massacre
When Monday, November 29, 1847, dawned cold and foggy in the
Walla Walla Valley, there were 74 people staying at the Waiilatpu
mission. Most of them were emigrants, stopping over on the way to
the Willamette Valley. The mission buildings were crowded almost
beyond capacity: 23 people were living in the mission house; 8 in the
blacksmith shop; 29 in the emigrant house; 12 in the cabin at the
sawmill, 20 miles up Mill Creek; and the 2 half-breeds, Lewis and
Finley, were living in lodges on the mission grounds.
The Whitmans, aware that a crisis was at hand, had discussed
what they should do. Both Marcus and Narcissa rejected the
idea of attempting flight. Dr. Whitman believed that if the Cayuse
went on the rampage only he would be involved and the others
would not suffer on his behalf. Courageously, the missionaries
decided to continue administering to the sick and to attempt to keep
peace with the Indians. On that Monday morning, Marcus treated the
ill and officiated at the funeral of an Indian child. Narcissa, ill and
temporarily despondent, remained in her room until nearly noon, not
touching the breakfast brought to her.
23. Tiloukaikt and Tomahas, Cayuse chiefs who led the
massacre. Paintings by Paul Kane.
ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM, CANADA
24. After lunch Whitman stayed in the living room, resting and reading.
Narcissa, feeling better, was in the room also, bathing one of the
Sager girls. Throughout the rest of the mission, the duties of the day
were being carried out. Several children were in the classroom where
L. W. Saunders had begun to teach that day after a forced vacation
caused by the measles epidemic. Isaac Gilliland, a tailor, was working
in the emigrant house on a suit of clothes for Dr. Whitman. At the
end of the east wing of the mission house, Peter Hall was busy laying
a floor in a new addition being built that autumn. Out in the yard,
25. 68
Walter Marsh was running the gristmill, and four men were busy
dressing a beef. There were more Indians than usual gathered about
the grounds that day, but it was thought they had been
attracted by the butchering.
Into this scene walked two Cayuse chiefs, Tiloukaikt and Tomahas.
They entered the mission house kitchen and knocked on the bolted
door that led to the living room, claiming they wanted medicine. Dr.
Whitman refused them entry but got some medicine from the closet
under the stairway. Warning Mrs. Whitman to lock the door behind
him, he went out into the kitchen. There, Tiloukaikt deliberately
provoked the doctor into an argument. While the doctor’s attention
was thus diverted, Tomahas suddenly attacked him from behind with
a tomahawk. Whitman struggled to save himself but soon collapsed
from the blows.
Mary Ann Bridger, in the kitchen at this moment, dashed out the
north door, ran around the building to the west entrance of the living
room, and cried out in terror, “They have killed father!” John Sager,
the oldest of the seven orphans, was also in the kitchen when the
two Indians fell upon the doctor. John, recovering from the measles,
had been busy preparing twine for new brooms. When the doctor
was attacked, John attempted to reach for a pistol but was assaulted
by the Indians before he could get it. He fell to the floor mortally
wounded. At this time, a shot rang out that was apparently the signal
for an attack by the Indians in the yard.
At the sound of the shot, the Indians dropped their blankets, which
had concealed guns and tomahawks, and began their attack on the
men at the mission. Saunders, the school teacher, was killed while
trying to reach his wife in the emigrant house. Hoffman, one of the
butchers, was killed while furiously defending himself with an ax.
Gilliland, the tailor, was killed in the room where he had been sewing.
Marsh was killed working at the gristmill. Francis Sager, the second
oldest of the family, was in the schoolroom when the attack began.
With the other children, he hid in the rafters above the room. Before
26. 69
long he was discovered by Joe Lewis, and soon he too was shot and
killed.
Two others—Kimball who also was working on the beef, and Andrew
Rodgers who was down by the river—were wounded; but both
were able to reach the mission house where Narcissa let them
into the living room. A few minutes later, Mrs. Whitman, looking
though the window in the east door, saw Joe Lewis in the yard. She
called out to him asking if all this was his doing. Lewis made no reply,
but an Indian standing on the schoolroom steps heard her voice and,
raising his rifle, fired. The bullet hit Mrs. Whitman in the left breast.
She fell to the floor screaming but quickly recovered her composure
and staggered to her feet.
Narcissa gathered those about her, including several children and the
two wounded men, and led them upstairs just as the Indians burst
into the living room. In the attic bedroom, a broken, discarded
musket was found, and the refugees used it to fend off the Indians.
Finally, Tamsucky, an old Indian whom the Whitmans had long
trusted, convinced Narcissa that the mission house was about to be
burned and that all must go to the emigrant house for safety.
Narcissa and Rodgers agreed to come downstairs, but for the time
being the children and the wounded Kimball were to stay. At the foot
of the stairs Narcissa caught a glimpse of her husband who now lay
dead, his face horribly mutilated. Shocked and weak from loss of
blood, she lay down upon a settee. Rodgers and Joe Lewis picked up
the settee and carried Mrs. Whitman outdoors. Just beyond the north
door of the kitchen, Lewis suddenly dropped his end of the settee,
and a number of Indians standing there began firing at Narcissa and
Rodgers. After her body had rolled off the couch into the mud, one
Indian grabbed her hair, lifted her head, and struck her face with his
riding whip. Mrs. Whitman probably died quickly, but Rodgers
lingered on into the night.
Kimball remained upstairs with the children through the long night. In
the early dawn of Tuesday, he slipped down to the river to get water
27. 70
for them. But he was discovered by the Indians and killed. On that
same day, unaware of what had happened, James Young drove down
from the sawmill with a load of lumber. He was caught a mile or to
from the mission and slain on the spot. A few days later two more
victims were added when the Indians killed Crockett Bewley
and Amos Sales, two sick youths who dared to openly criticize
the Cayuse for the massacre. These two young men brought the
death total to 13.
Peter Hall, the carpenter working on the house, managed to escape
when the Indians attacked. He made his way to Fort Walla Walla
where he received help from the trader, William McBean. Departing
from there, he started across the Columbia River to make his way
down the north bank to Fort Vancouver. But he never arrived.
Perhaps he drowned in the Columbia, perhaps he was caught and
killed. Nothing further is known about him.
A few of the people at the mission made successful escapes. W. D.
Canfield, one of those dressing the beef, managed to hide in the
blacksmith shop until nightfall. Then he set out on foot for Lapwai,
110 miles away. Though he had only a general knowledge of the trail
and the direction, he reached Spalding’s mission on Saturday. But the
most desperate escape was that of the Osborn family. Josiah Osborn,
his wife, and their three children were living in the “Indian Room” of
the mission house. When the attack came, Osborn hid himself and
his family under some loose boards in the floor and escaped
detection throughout the afternoon and evening. Crouched under the
floor, they could hear the groans of the dying and the sounds of
looting above their heads.
After the coming of darkness when the rooms above them grew
quiet, the Osborns came out of hiding and made their way silently to
the river. They started walking to Fort Walla Walla, but after a short
distance, Mrs. Osborn, who had just recovered from measles and the
loss of a child at its birth, could not go on. Hiding his wife and two of
the children in the willows, Osborn continued on to the fort where he
28. 71
eventually was able to get a horse and a friendly Indian to help him.
After some difficulty, he found his family where he had left them and
took his wife and children on to Fort Walla Walla. The Osborns did
not reach the security of the fort until Thursday—after 4 days in the
damp cold of an Oregon autumn. Sick and afraid, all five of the family
survived the ordeal and eventually reached the Willamette
Valley.
At Waiilatpu, the Cayuse were exultant. They had destroyed what
they believed had been the cause of all their troubles; once again
their lands would be free from the tracks of wagon wheels and the
unfathomable ideas of the whites.
Their victory was to be but a short respite. Before long, the Cayuse
were to suffer heavily for these deeds. They could not foresee that
Marcus and Narcissa Whitman would be regarded as martyrs by their
countrymen. They did not understand that Americans could and
would wreak a terrible vengeance.
The second great grave, where the Oregon Volunteers
buried the massacre victims in 1848.
29. The Harvest of Violence
Peter Skene Ogden.
With the exception of David Malin and the two Manson boys, whom
the Indians allowed to go to Fort Walla Walla, they held all 49
30. 72
survivors captive at Waiilatpu. Although most of them suffered
greatly from shock and were fearful of the future, most of the
captives were not treated severely. Three of the older girls were
singled out by Indians who desired them for wives. Especially
maltreated was Lorinda Bewley who was subjected to the
unwanted attentions of Five Crows, a chief who had not participated
in the attack and who had long enjoyed many favors from the
Whitmans. During their captivity, two young girls died—Louise Sager
and Helen Mar Meek. Both these children had been critically ill with
measles before the massacre, and it is possible they would have died
even with Dr. Whitman present to care for them.
On Tuesday, the day following the attack, Joe Stanfield dug a shallow,
mass grave near the mission cemetery north of the mission house.
On the same day, Father Brouillet, one of the priests whose arrival in
the vicinity a few weeks earlier had so greatly disturbed Dr. Whitman,
reached Waiilatpu. Horrified by the scene of death and destruction,
Brouillet helped Stanfield prepare the dead. Rendering “to those
unfortunate victims the last service in my power to offer them,”
Brouillet officiated at the burial. A few days later wild animals
disturbed the shallow grave, and it had to be covered again. In March
1848 the remains, which again had been disturbed by wolves, were
placed in a new grave and covered with an upturned wagon bed by
the Oregon Volunteers. On the 50th anniversary of the massacre, the
bodies were disinterred and reburied in a more fitting tomb, where
they lie today.
News of the massacre reached Fort Vancouver early in December.
Moving quickly, Chief Factor James Douglas sent Peter Skene Ogden
up the Columbia with a supply of goods to bargain for the release of
the captives. On December 29, one month after the massacre, the
prisoners were exchanged for 62 blankets, 63 shirts, 12 guns, 600
loads of ammunition, 37 pounds of tobacco, and 12 flints.
None of the other American Board missions were attacked. On
January 1, 1848, the Nez Percé escorted the Spaldings to Fort Walla
31. 73
Walla, where they joined the 49 Waiilatpu survivors for the journey to
Willamette. The Eellses and Walkers continued to live among the
Spokan until the following spring when they, too, left for
Oregon City. Thus the activities of the American Board came to
an end in the Pacific Northwest.
When Gov. George Abernethy, head of the provisional government in
Oregon Territory, heard of the massacre, a company of riflemen was
enrolled to punish the Cayuse. Soon the call was increased to 500
volunteers. At the end of February the volunteer soldiers reached the
Walla Walla Valley. The Cayuse fled to the mountains north of the
Snake River, but the disorganized and poorly disciplined troops did
not pursue them far. These volunteers stayed at Waiilatpu until early
summer. Then, leaving behind a guard of 50 men at the mission—by
now called Fort Waters—the rest returned home.
After 2 years of wandering and hardships, the Cayuse gave up five of
their men in an effort to make peace with the whites. These five were
arrested for murder and tried by jury in Oregon City. All five were
found guilty (although one of them probably took no part in the
massacre) and were hanged in 1850. There is bitter irony in the fact
that the hangman was Joe Meek, the father of Helen Mar. The
Indians’ problems were not solved by the hanging. In fact, the time
of troubles was just starting. For the next generation intermittent
Indian wars plagued the Pacific Northwest; but the Cayuse were
never again a source of real trouble.
At the time that he dispatched the Oregon Volunteers, Governor
Abernethy and the provisional legislature sent emissaries to
Washington (led by Joe Meek) to call attention to the state of affairs
in Oregon. News of the massacre moved Congress to act, and in
August 1848 a bill was passed creating the Territory of Oregon. Thus
did Marcus and Narcissa Whitman serve the Pacific Northwest and
their country after death.
Alive, they had striven to prepare the Cayuse for the civilization that
was sure to engulf them. When the emigrants did arrive, the
32. 74
Whitman mission became a haven in the wilderness for these weary
wanderers. The Whitmans’ deaths had the immediate result of
creating the first formal American territorial government west of the
Rocky Mountains. Today, the story of the Whitmans serves to
inspire all people who would pursue the way of high principles
and ideals. Events at Waiilatpu were climaxed with disaster, but from
this tragedy there shines a rare courage, dedication, and strength
that men will ever need.
33. 75
Preservation of the Past
For a brief time in 1848, the Oregon Volunteers occupied the mission
in their unsuccessful campaign to punish the Cayuse. Building an
adobe wall around the mission house, they named it Fort Waters. In
1859 the Reverend Cushing Eells, the former associate of Dr.
Whitman, established a claim on the former mission site and lived
there until 1872, when his house burned down. His great
achievement during these years was the founding of Whitman
Seminary (now Whitman College) in the new community of Walla
Walla, 6 miles east of the mission site.
For the next few generations the land that Dr. Whitman first tilled
continued to be farmed by a number of owners. In 1897, on the 50th
anniversary of the massacre, Mr. and Mrs. Marion Willard Swegle
donated about 8 acres, including the site of the Great Grave and the
Memorial Shaft Hill, to a group of citizens interested in perpetuating
that historic spot. As the 100th anniversary of the Whitmans’ arrival
at Waiilatpu approached, public-spirited citizens initiated efforts to
acquire and preserve the land on which the mission itself had been
located. In 1936 the Whitman Centennial Co. acquired 37½
additional acres of land, which included the building sites. These two
tracts were donated to the Nation, and on January 20, 1940,
Whitman National Monument was formally established.
In 1961 an additional 45 acres of land were purchased by the Federal
Government, pursuant to an Act of Congress, to permit the proper
development of the monument. In 1962 Congress changed the name
of this area to Whitman Mission National Historic Site.
36. 78
TESTIMONY FROM THE EARTH: A FOLIO
Archeologists uncovered the ruins of the mission buildings
in the 1940’s. The rectangle of packed earth with the two
large pits is the base of the large hearth in the mission
house kitchen. Narcissa Whitman cooked on this hearth for
only a few years before it was replaced with a regular
cookstove.
37. A plan of the foundation ruins of the mission house, as
found by archeologists.
41. A useful everyday object was this fine-tooth comb, found in
the ruins. The missionaries had to be constantly on the
watch for lice, especially in their children’s hair. In a letter
home, Narcissa asked that some of these “louse traps” be
sent.
46. 89
About Your Visit
Whitman Mission National Historic Site is 6 miles west of Walla Walla,
Wash., just off U.S. 410. Walla Walla is served by an airline, two
railroads, and bus-lines. Since there is no public transportation
between the town and the monument, you must arrange your own
transportation between these two points.
The grounds of the historic site are open from 8 a.m. until dark. A
self-guiding system of trails enables you to tour the mission grounds
and see the great grave and the memorial shaft. Markers, pictures,
wayside exhibits, and an audio system are located along the trails.
Special guide service is available to groups making advance
arrangements with the superintendent. In summer, free guided tours
are usually available on weekends without prior arrangement.
A visitor center housing a museum and a small auditorium is open
from 8 a.m. until 4:30 p.m. every day except Christmas. The museum
tells the story of the missionaries in the Pacific Northwest, especially
that of the Whitmans. Illustrated talks about the missionary era and
special programs are given in the auditorium. Uniformed personnel
are stationed at the visitor center, where free informational literature
and sales publications of special historical interest are available.
Administration
Whitman Mission National Historic Site is administered by the National
Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior.
The National Park System, of which this Site is a unit, is dedicated to
conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United
States for the benefit and inspiration of the people.
Development of the site is part of MISSION 66, a dynamic conservation
program to unfold the full potential of the National Park System for
47. 90
91
the use and enjoyment of present and future generations.
A superintendent, whose address is Whitman Mission National
Historic Site, Route 2, Walla Walla, Wash., 99362, and whose
offices are in the visitor center, is in immediate charge.
America’s Natural Resources
Created in 1849, the Department of the Interior—America’s
Department of Natural Resources—is concerned with the
management, conservation, and development of the Nation’s water,
wildlife, mineral, forest, and park and recreational resources. It also
has major responsibilities for Indian and territorial affairs.
As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department works
to assure that nonrenewable resources are developed and used
wisely, that park and recreational resources are conserved, and that
renewable resources make their full contribution to the
48. 92
progress, prosperity, and security of the United States—now and in
the future.
Related Areas
Included in the National Park System are these other areas
commemorating phases of early western history: Jefferson National
Expansion Memorial National Historic Site, Mo.; Homestead National
Monument of America, Nebr.; Chimney Rock National Historic Site,
Nebr.; Scotts Bluff National Monument, Nebr.; Fort Laramie National
Historic Site, Wyo.; Grand Teton National Park, Wyo.; Custer
Battlefield National Monument, Mont.; Big Hole National Battlefield,
Mont.; Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, Wash.; McLoughlin
House National Historic Site, Oreg; and Fort Clatsop National
Memorial, Oreg. The nearby city of Walla Walla has preserved the
military cemetery of the U.S. Army Post, Fort Walla Walla.
49. Suggested Readings
Bagley, Clarence B. ed., Early Catholic Missions in Old Oregon. 2 vols.
Lowman & Hanford Company, Seattle, 1932.
Bancroft, Hubert Howe, History of Oregon, 2 vols., (vol. 2, 1834-1848).
The History Publishers, San Francisco, 1886.
Bischoff, William N., S.J., The Jesuits in Old Oregon, 1840-1940.
Caxton Printers, Caldwell, Idaho, 1945.
Brosnan, Cornelius J., Jason Lee, Prophet of the New Oregon. The
MacMillan Company, New York, 1932.
Drury, Clifford M., Marcus Whitman, M.D.: Pioneer and Martyr.
Caxton Printers, Caldwell, Idaho, 1937.
Elliott, T. C., The Coming of the White Women. Oregon Historical
Society, Portland, 1937.
Garth, Thomas R., “The Archeological Excavation of Waiilatpu Mission.”
Oregon Historical Quarterly, XLIX, 117-36 (June 1948).
Haines, Francis, The Nez Percés: Tribesmen of the Columbia Plateau.
University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, 1955.
Hulbert, Archer B. and Dorothy P., eds., Marcus Whitman, Crusader. 3
vols. Stewart Commission of Colorado College and the Denver
Public Library, Denver, 1936, 1938, 1941.
Jones, Nard, The Great Command: The Story of Marcus and Narcissa
Whitman and the Oregon County Pioneers. Little, Brown, and
Company, Boston, 1959.
50. 93
Lavender, David, Land of Giants: The Drive to the Pacific Northwest,
1750-1950. (Mainstream of American Series, Lewis Gannett, ed.)
Doubleday & Company, Garden City, N.Y., 1958.
★ U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1964 O-747-534
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE HISTORICAL HANDBOOK SERIES
Antietam
Aztec Ruins
Bandelier
Chalmette
Chickamauga and Chattanooga Battlefields
Custer Battlefield
Custis-Lee Mansion, the Robert E. Lee Memorial
Fort Laramie
Fort McHenry
Fort Necessity
Fort Pulaski
Fort Raleigh
Fort Sumter
Fort Union
George Washington Birthplace
Gettysburg
Guilford Courthouse
Hopewell Village
Independence
Jamestown, Virginia
Kings Mountain
The Lincoln Museum and the House Where Lincoln Died
Manassas (Bull Run)
Montezuma Castle
Morristown, a Military Capital of the Revolution
Ocmulgee
Petersburg Battlefields
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