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beginner/intermediate
                                                                                    wire/metal




    Tough Cuff
    wire and metal bracelet




              Apply   fiber-working skills to wire to create a
                        crocheted copper cuff.




                              by Stephanie Riger




                              T
                                     hree gauges of copper wire
                                     make up the featured cuff.
                                     You’ll solder and shape
                              10-gauge (2.6mm) wire to make the
                              cuff frame. Then you’ll use 18-gauge
                              (1.0mm) multistrand wire to double
                              crochet the panel, which you’ll then
                              fasten to the frame, using 20-gauge
                              (0.8mm) wire. For a different look,
                              you can make the panel by working
                              in a single crochet stitch, or you can
                                                                             The crocheted panel in the
                              use aluminum knitting needles to               featured bracelet is a wire
                                                                             interpretation of traditional
                              knit the wire instead.
                                                                             needlework. 6 1 /2 x 13 /4 in.
                                                                             (16.5 x 4.4cm).

	                                                                                ar tjewelr ymag.com
1                                     2                                             3


                Figure 1                     Figure 2                                              Figure 3




    crochet	
    anatomy	of	a	


    	       			 	hook                  Cuff frame                                 Crocheted panel
        a                              Anneal and form the wire for the           Practice with yarn. Crocheting with
                                       frame. Use wire cutters to cut a 14-in.    wire is a bit challenging. If you haven’t
    b          [a]	Hook: end used      (35.6cm) piece of 10-gauge (2.6mm)         crocheted before, see “Anatomy of a
               to catch yarn or
               wire and pull it        copper wire. Place the wire on your        Crochet Hook,” left. Practice making a
               through other loops     soldering surface and use a soft, bushy    chain and stitching a few rows of
                                       flame to anneal it. See Basic Tech-        double crochet with 3-ply yarn before
               [b]	Throat: angled
        c                              niques at artjewelrymag.com for infor-     you try to make the crocheted wire
               section behind the
               hook that guides        mation on annealing and soldering.         panel in the featured bracelet. We’ve
               yarn or wire onto       Quench, pickle, and rinse the wire.        provided double crochet instructions
               the working area
                                          File the wire ends smooth with a        for right-handed crocheters. If you are
               [c]	Working	area:       #2-cut, flat hand file, and bend the       left-handed, make a mirrored photo-
               part of the hook        wire into a large oval, making sure that   copy of the illustrations.
               where you work the
    d                                  the ends of the wire are flush with
               stitches
                                       each other.                                Make a chain. Make a slipknot in a
               [d]	Finger	hold:                                                   5½-yd. (5.0m) piece of 18-gauge
               indentation for
               holding the hook        Solder the wire frame. Place the           (1.0mm) copper wire, leaving a 3-in.
               with your fingers       wire on your soldering surface and         (76mm) tail. Insert a size H (5mm)
                                       flux the ends of the wire. Place a         aluminum crochet hook in the knot
               [e]	Handle: end of
               the hook used for       pallion of medium solder where the         [Figure 1]. Tighten the knot to make
               leverage and held in    wire ends touch, and use a soft, bushy     a loop around the working area of
               the palm of the         flame to solder the join [1]. Quench,      the hook. Bring the working wire over
               hand
                                       pickle, and rinse the oval frame.          the working area of the hook. In
        e      For more crocheting                                                traditional crochet, this is referred to
               instructions, go to     Shape the frame. Using a rawhide           as “yarn over,” or YO. We’ll refer to this
               the Crochet Guild of
               America’s Web site,     mallet and an anvil [2], shape the oval    as “wire over,” or WO.
               crochet.org.            so that it is approximately 6 x 1¾ in.         Slide the working wire to the throat
                                       (15.2 x 4.4cm).                            of the hook, and then pull the hook
                                           Use the rawhide mallet and a           and working wire through the loop
                                       bracelet mandrel to curve the oval         [Figure 2], making a chain stitch.
                                       ends toward each other [3].                Continue to WO and pull the wire

	                                                                                             ar tjewelr ymag.com
Figure 4                                         Figure 5                                       Figure 6




        Figure 7                                         Figure 8




        Figure 9                                        Figure 10
                                                                                                                                   4
    through the loop [Figure 3] until you      [Figure 5]. You will be left with three   the next row of double crochet
    have a total of 15 chain stitches or       loops on the hook.                        stitches. Double crochet across the
    until your chain is 6 in. (15.2cm) long.      WO and pull the working wire           chain as you did to stitch the first
    You need a crocheted panel that is         through the first two loops on the        row. Work the last double crochet in
    approximately 6 x 1¾ in. (15.2 x           hook [Figure 6]. This leaves you with     the back loop of the last chain stitch
    4.4cm) to fit the cuff frame.              two loops on the hook. WO and pull        [Figure 10].
                                               the working wire through the
    Double crochet the first row.              remaining two loops on the hook           Measure the panel. Check the fit
    I made my double crochet stitches          [Figure 7]. This leaves you with one      of the crocheted panel on the frame.
    through only the back loop of each         loop on the hook [Figure 8] and one       If you stitched tightly, you may need
    chain stitch to create a ridged            complete double crochet stitch. WO        to crochet another row. Although
    pattern that gives the bracelet more       and insert the hook into the back         the wire does not stretch, you can
    texture. If you prefer, you could use      loop of the next chain stitch.            use your hands to pull the panel to
    a stitch of your choice, such as single       Repeat the steps illustrated in        loosen the stitches for some
    crochet, or work your double crochet       Figures 5–8 to complete the second        additional width or length [4].
    stitch through both loops of each          double crochet stitch. Continue
    chain stitch.                              to double crochet to the end of           Tie off the end. At the end of the
        WO and insert the hook into the        the chain.                                last row of double crochet, leave a
    back loop of the fourth chain stitch                                                 3-in. (76mm) tail of working wire.
    from the hook (do not count the            Turning chain. Make three chain           Cut the wire and pull the tail through
    loop on the hook), keeping the new         stitches and turn your work around        the remaining loop to finish off the
    loop on the hook [Figure 4]. WO and        [Figure 9]. This is called “turning       panel [Figure 11].
    pull the working wire through the          chain.” The three chain stitches
    loop that is closest to the hook           provide the proper row height for

	                                                                                                           ar tjewelr ymag.com
Process photos by Stephanie Riger.
                                                                                                                                       materials
                                                                                                                                       ■   Copper wire:
                                                                                                                                           ■ 10-gauge (2.6mm), 14 in.

                                                                                                                                             (35.6cm)
                                                                                                                                           ■ 18-gauge (1.0mm),

                                                                                                                                             multistrand, 5½ yd.
                                                                                                                                             (5.0m)
                                                                                                                                           ■ 20-gauge (0.8mm), 39 in.

                                                                                                                                             (1m)

                   Figure 11
                                                                                             5                                         tools  supplies
                                                                                                                                       ■

                                                                                                                                       ■
                                                                                                                                           Wire cutters
                                                                                                                                           Hand file: #2-cut flat
                                                                                                                                       ■   Soldering station: torch,
                                                                                                                                           solder (medium), fire-
Assembly                                                                                                                                   resistant surface (soldering
Secure the wrapping wire. Cut a 39-in.          Stephanie Riger knitted                                                                    pad, firebrick, or charcoal
(1m) piece of 20-gauge (0.8mm) copper           her way through classes                                                                    block), pickle pot with
                                                                                                                                           pickle, flux, copper tongs
wire (this will be your working wire). Use      in college and did
                                                                                                                                       ■   Rawhide mallet
400-grit sandpaper to smooth the wire           macramé through
                                                                                                                                       ■   Anvil
ends. Beginning at one end of the frame,        graduate school. She                                                                   ■   Bracelet mandrel
tightly wrap the working wire around it         began making jewelry                                                                   ■   Yarn: 3 ply (optional)
three times.                                    about eight years ago                                                                  ■   Crochet hook: size H (5mm)
                                                and quickly became                                                                         aluminum
Attach the crocheted panel. Fit the             addicted to wire crochet, which she teaches in                                         ■   Knitting needles: aluminum
panel against the frame so that the tail on     the San Francisco Bay area. Recently, Riger has                                            (optional)
one end of the panel aligns with the three      been doing more metalsmithing and wire                                                 ■   Sandpaper: 400 grit
wraps you just made on the frame. Fold          wrapping. To see more of her work, visit her                                           ■   Pliers: chainnose
the tail back against the panel. Holding the    Web site, stephanieriger.com.
panel tightly against the frame, use the                                                                                               suppliers
                                                                                                                                       ■   18-gauge (1.0mm)
working wire to wrap the tail and edge of
                                                                                                                                           multistrand (“stranded”)
the panel around the frame [5].
                                                                                                                                           copper wire (American
   Continue to attach the panel to the                                                                                                     Science  Surplus,
frame, inserting the working wire through                                                                                                  888.724.7587, sciplus.com)
the loops of the crocheted stitches at the                                                                                             ■   10-gauge (2.6mm) and 20-
edge of the panel. Be careful not to split                                                                                                 gauge (0.8mm) copper wire
the crocheted stitches with the working                                                                                                    (Rio Grande, 800.545.6566,
wire. When you reach the remaining tail,                                                                                                   riogrande.com)
tuck it against the crocheted panel and                                                                                                ■   Crochet hook (local craft
wrap around it as you did the first tail.                                                                                                  and fabric stores)


Finish off the wraps. When you have
worked all the way around the form,
tightly wrap the working wire around the
frame a few times. Cut off any excess wire,
file the end with 400-grit sandpaper, and
use chainnose pliers to press the end
against the frame.




                                                   The crocheted
                                               panel is secured
                                               to the sturdy cuff
                                               frame with wraps
                                               of 20-gauge (0.8mm)
                                               copper wire.


	                                                                                                                                      ar tjewelr ymag.com
Make jewelry
          that makes a
          statement . . .
          your statement
          Looking for projects that use different
          materials such as metalwork, wirework,
          stone, glass, polymer, and enamel? Then
          Art Jewelry is the magazine for you!
          Discover the secrets you need to create
          breathtaking pieces that express your own
          distinctive style like never before! Whether
          you want to learn a new technique, try a
                                                                      Subscribe
          different material, or get ideas for your
          own jewelry projects, there’s something for
                                                                       Today!
          you in Art Jewelry!




                              Order online at
                      www.artjewelrymag.com/promo
                            Enter code: I4XZ1
                                or call 800-533-6644
                    Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time.
                     Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 262-796-8776, ext. 661.
05X1017




                                                                                 I4XZ1

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Art on0807

  • 1. beginner/intermediate wire/metal Tough Cuff wire and metal bracelet Apply fiber-working skills to wire to create a crocheted copper cuff. by Stephanie Riger T hree gauges of copper wire make up the featured cuff. You’ll solder and shape 10-gauge (2.6mm) wire to make the cuff frame. Then you’ll use 18-gauge (1.0mm) multistrand wire to double crochet the panel, which you’ll then fasten to the frame, using 20-gauge (0.8mm) wire. For a different look, you can make the panel by working in a single crochet stitch, or you can The crocheted panel in the use aluminum knitting needles to featured bracelet is a wire interpretation of traditional knit the wire instead. needlework. 6 1 /2 x 13 /4 in. (16.5 x 4.4cm). ar tjewelr ymag.com
  • 2. 1 2 3 Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 crochet anatomy of a hook Cuff frame Crocheted panel a Anneal and form the wire for the Practice with yarn. Crocheting with frame. Use wire cutters to cut a 14-in. wire is a bit challenging. If you haven’t b [a] Hook: end used (35.6cm) piece of 10-gauge (2.6mm) crocheted before, see “Anatomy of a to catch yarn or wire and pull it copper wire. Place the wire on your Crochet Hook,” left. Practice making a through other loops soldering surface and use a soft, bushy chain and stitching a few rows of flame to anneal it. See Basic Tech- double crochet with 3-ply yarn before [b] Throat: angled c niques at artjewelrymag.com for infor- you try to make the crocheted wire section behind the hook that guides mation on annealing and soldering. panel in the featured bracelet. We’ve yarn or wire onto Quench, pickle, and rinse the wire. provided double crochet instructions the working area File the wire ends smooth with a for right-handed crocheters. If you are [c] Working area: #2-cut, flat hand file, and bend the left-handed, make a mirrored photo- part of the hook wire into a large oval, making sure that copy of the illustrations. where you work the d the ends of the wire are flush with stitches each other. Make a chain. Make a slipknot in a [d] Finger hold: 5½-yd. (5.0m) piece of 18-gauge indentation for holding the hook Solder the wire frame. Place the (1.0mm) copper wire, leaving a 3-in. with your fingers wire on your soldering surface and (76mm) tail. Insert a size H (5mm) flux the ends of the wire. Place a aluminum crochet hook in the knot [e] Handle: end of the hook used for pallion of medium solder where the [Figure 1]. Tighten the knot to make leverage and held in wire ends touch, and use a soft, bushy a loop around the working area of the palm of the flame to solder the join [1]. Quench, the hook. Bring the working wire over hand pickle, and rinse the oval frame. the working area of the hook. In e For more crocheting traditional crochet, this is referred to instructions, go to Shape the frame. Using a rawhide as “yarn over,” or YO. We’ll refer to this the Crochet Guild of America’s Web site, mallet and an anvil [2], shape the oval as “wire over,” or WO. crochet.org. so that it is approximately 6 x 1¾ in. Slide the working wire to the throat (15.2 x 4.4cm). of the hook, and then pull the hook Use the rawhide mallet and a and working wire through the loop bracelet mandrel to curve the oval [Figure 2], making a chain stitch. ends toward each other [3]. Continue to WO and pull the wire ar tjewelr ymag.com
  • 3. Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9 Figure 10 4 through the loop [Figure 3] until you [Figure 5]. You will be left with three the next row of double crochet have a total of 15 chain stitches or loops on the hook. stitches. Double crochet across the until your chain is 6 in. (15.2cm) long. WO and pull the working wire chain as you did to stitch the first You need a crocheted panel that is through the first two loops on the row. Work the last double crochet in approximately 6 x 1¾ in. (15.2 x hook [Figure 6]. This leaves you with the back loop of the last chain stitch 4.4cm) to fit the cuff frame. two loops on the hook. WO and pull [Figure 10]. the working wire through the Double crochet the first row. remaining two loops on the hook Measure the panel. Check the fit I made my double crochet stitches [Figure 7]. This leaves you with one of the crocheted panel on the frame. through only the back loop of each loop on the hook [Figure 8] and one If you stitched tightly, you may need chain stitch to create a ridged complete double crochet stitch. WO to crochet another row. Although pattern that gives the bracelet more and insert the hook into the back the wire does not stretch, you can texture. If you prefer, you could use loop of the next chain stitch. use your hands to pull the panel to a stitch of your choice, such as single Repeat the steps illustrated in loosen the stitches for some crochet, or work your double crochet Figures 5–8 to complete the second additional width or length [4]. stitch through both loops of each double crochet stitch. Continue chain stitch. to double crochet to the end of Tie off the end. At the end of the WO and insert the hook into the the chain. last row of double crochet, leave a back loop of the fourth chain stitch 3-in. (76mm) tail of working wire. from the hook (do not count the Turning chain. Make three chain Cut the wire and pull the tail through loop on the hook), keeping the new stitches and turn your work around the remaining loop to finish off the loop on the hook [Figure 4]. WO and [Figure 9]. This is called “turning panel [Figure 11]. pull the working wire through the chain.” The three chain stitches loop that is closest to the hook provide the proper row height for ar tjewelr ymag.com
  • 4. Process photos by Stephanie Riger. materials ■ Copper wire: ■ 10-gauge (2.6mm), 14 in. (35.6cm) ■ 18-gauge (1.0mm), multistrand, 5½ yd. (5.0m) ■ 20-gauge (0.8mm), 39 in. (1m) Figure 11 5 tools supplies ■ ■ Wire cutters Hand file: #2-cut flat ■ Soldering station: torch, solder (medium), fire- Assembly resistant surface (soldering Secure the wrapping wire. Cut a 39-in. Stephanie Riger knitted pad, firebrick, or charcoal (1m) piece of 20-gauge (0.8mm) copper her way through classes block), pickle pot with pickle, flux, copper tongs wire (this will be your working wire). Use in college and did ■ Rawhide mallet 400-grit sandpaper to smooth the wire macramé through ■ Anvil ends. Beginning at one end of the frame, graduate school. She ■ Bracelet mandrel tightly wrap the working wire around it began making jewelry ■ Yarn: 3 ply (optional) three times. about eight years ago ■ Crochet hook: size H (5mm) and quickly became aluminum Attach the crocheted panel. Fit the addicted to wire crochet, which she teaches in ■ Knitting needles: aluminum panel against the frame so that the tail on the San Francisco Bay area. Recently, Riger has (optional) one end of the panel aligns with the three been doing more metalsmithing and wire ■ Sandpaper: 400 grit wraps you just made on the frame. Fold wrapping. To see more of her work, visit her ■ Pliers: chainnose the tail back against the panel. Holding the Web site, stephanieriger.com. panel tightly against the frame, use the suppliers ■ 18-gauge (1.0mm) working wire to wrap the tail and edge of multistrand (“stranded”) the panel around the frame [5]. copper wire (American Continue to attach the panel to the Science Surplus, frame, inserting the working wire through 888.724.7587, sciplus.com) the loops of the crocheted stitches at the ■ 10-gauge (2.6mm) and 20- edge of the panel. Be careful not to split gauge (0.8mm) copper wire the crocheted stitches with the working (Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, wire. When you reach the remaining tail, riogrande.com) tuck it against the crocheted panel and ■ Crochet hook (local craft wrap around it as you did the first tail. and fabric stores) Finish off the wraps. When you have worked all the way around the form, tightly wrap the working wire around the frame a few times. Cut off any excess wire, file the end with 400-grit sandpaper, and use chainnose pliers to press the end against the frame. The crocheted panel is secured to the sturdy cuff frame with wraps of 20-gauge (0.8mm) copper wire. ar tjewelr ymag.com
  • 5. Make jewelry that makes a statement . . . your statement Looking for projects that use different materials such as metalwork, wirework, stone, glass, polymer, and enamel? Then Art Jewelry is the magazine for you! Discover the secrets you need to create breathtaking pieces that express your own distinctive style like never before! Whether you want to learn a new technique, try a Subscribe different material, or get ideas for your own jewelry projects, there’s something for Today! you in Art Jewelry! Order online at www.artjewelrymag.com/promo Enter code: I4XZ1 or call 800-533-6644 Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 262-796-8776, ext. 661. 05X1017 I4XZ1