FABRIC STRUCTURE PART 3
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The document discusses various types of woven fabrics, focusing primarily on honeycomb weaves, including ordinary and Brighton honeycomb weaves, highlighting their structure, characteristics, and design intricacies. It also covers other weave types such as Huck-a-back and mock leno weaves, explaining their construction and applications, particularly in textiles that require absorbency, like towels and curtains. The differences between ordinary and Brighton honeycomb weaves are summarized, as well as the specific techniques required to create these intricate patterns.
![Construction of Mock Leno weaves
Example: Let us make a mock-leno weave on 10 ends and 6 picks.
Step 1: Prepare a grid representing 10 ends and 6 picks and divide it
in to four parts.
Step 2: Copy the following motif in the lower left quarter of the grid.
Copying in the grid we get:
Step 3: Now copy this motif in the upper right quarter of the grid.
Step 4: Now fill the remaining quarters with a weave that work
exactly opposite to the weave chosen for motif.
It means where there is warp up [a (x) mark] in the motif, replace it
with weft up ( a blank mark) and where there is a blank in the motif,
replace it with a (x) in the remaining quarters.
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
24](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/fabricstructurepart3-210623160646/85/FABRIC-STRUCTURE-PART-3-24-320.jpg)
FABRIC STRUCTURE PART 3
- 1. FABRIC STRUCTURE R.PARANTHAMAN, M.TECH, MBA ASSISTANT PROFESSOR INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM TECHNOLOGY, SALEM 1
- 2. UNIT 3 Study of honey comb weaves - Ordinary honey comb and Brighton honey comb – cell formation; study of Huck-a-Back, mock leno and corkscrew weaves. Crepe weaves – construction upon sateen base, by combination of floating weaves with plain thread, by reversing and by insertion of one weave over another; design, draft, and peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves. Colour and weave effect- simple colour and weave effect, continuous line effects, hound’s tooth patterns, bird’s eye and spot effects, hairline stripes, step patterns, and all over effects; combination of weaves – twill and plain, mock leno and plain, honey comb and plain, stripe and check effect by these combinations; distorted thread effects – salient feature, warp and weft distortion. 2
- 3. Honeycomb weave • HONEY IS KNOWN TO EVERY ONE OF US ITS SWEETNESS. • HONEY IS COLLECTED FROM, “BEE’S HIVE”. • ALL MOST EVERYONE US MIGHT HAVE SEEN THE BEE’S HIVE IN ITS REAL STRUCTURE. • BEE’S HIVE LOOKS LIKE CELL. • CELLULAR FORMATION IS BECAUSE OF RIDGES AND HOLLOWS IN THE ARRANGEMENT BY THE BEES AND NATURE. • SIMILAR IS THE APPEARANCE OF HONEYCOMB WOVEN FABRICS. • IN HONEYCOMB WOVEN FABRICS THREADS FORM RIDGES AND HOLLOWS WHICH GIVE A CELL LIKE APPEARANCE TO THE TEXTURES. • BOTH WARP AND WEFT THREADS FLOAT SOMEWHAT FREELY ON BOTH SIDES AND ARE COUPLED WITH ROUGH STRUCTURES, RESULT IS FORMATION OF RIDGES AND HOLLOWS. • THE WEAVES ARE OF TWO CLASSES: 1) ORDINARY HONEYCOMB WEAVES, AND 2) BRIGHTON HONEYCOMB WEAVES.
- 4. These weaves are characterized by the following features a) The surface of honeycomb fabric is very rough b) In the repeat size, number of ends and picks may be equal or unequal c) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line d) Ordinary honey is produced by pointed draft and Brighton honeycomb is produced by straight draft e) Weaves forms hollows which forms cell like appearance to the texture f) If repeat size is square, then ultimate raised, and sunk diamond shaped areas are seen g) Large honeycomb weaves are liable to be loose in structure when constructed in ordinary manner. h) To secure the firmness of texture a double row of binding is used. i) This fabrics having high water absorbency property j) For Brighton honeycomb, the number of threads in repeat should be multiple of 4 k) The smallest repeat size for ordinary honeycomb is 6x4 l) The smallest repeat size of brighton honeycomb is 8x8 Honeycomb weave 4
- 5. Honeycomb weave 1) Ordinary Honeycomb weaves: Ordinary Honeycomb weaves produce cell formation on both sides of cloth. Honeycomb weaves are constructed on pointed drafts. Main character of honeycomb weave is the formation of ridges and hollows, which gives cell like appearance. Draft order required is pointed, wavy twill across is arranged on 6 x 4 is shown at ‘A’ on 4 heald shafts (4 x 2 – 2 = 6). Wavy twill across is reversed in the vertical axis on 4th pick, is a blank diamond shown at ‘B’ (6 x 6). Any two sides (left – right or top – bottom) of the blank diamond are filled and the other two sides are left blank as shown at ‘C’ (6 x 6). Design ‘C’ is an ordinary honeycomb on 6 x 6. Draft ‘D’ on 8 x 5, blank diamond ‘E’ on 8 x 8 and ordinary honeycomb at ‘F’ on 8 x 8 are as below A B C D E F 6x6 8x8 5
- 6. Honeycomb weave Honeycomb weave on different repeat size (8x10 and 10 x 8 …) There is a different method of arrangement of ordinary honeycomb weaves to get warp and weft floats equal. This is shown at ‘P’, ‘Q’, ‘R’ & ‘S’. ‘P’ is blank diamond on 8 x 10, ‘Q’ is Honeycomb on 8 x 10. ‘R’ is blank diamond on 10 x 8, ‘S’ is Honeycomb on 10 x 8. ‘P’ Blank diamond is arranged with one blank pick in centre. ‘Q’ Honeycomb is filled on the opposite sides. Similarly, ‘R’ Blank diamond is arranged with one blank end in centre. ‘S’ Honeycomb is filled on the opposite sides. Draft order is pointed for ‘P’ and ‘R’. In ‘Q warp and weft floats are 7, 5, 3 & 1. 8x10 10x8 S Q R P 6
- 7. Double stitched Honeycomb designs Ordinary honeycomb designs constructed on more number of ends and picks beyond 12 x 12 will result the formation of loose structures. In order to secure firm and compact structures a double stitching is inserted, and these are called as double stitched honeycomb weaves which require pointed 7
- 8. Double stitched Honeycomb designs Double stitched honeycomb plan arrangement on 14 x 16 is: 1) Mark on 14 x 16, 2) Mark Wavy twill across on 14 x 8, 3) Miss one pick and reverse wavy twill across in vertical axis, 4) Draw wavy twill along from third pick and move up to 7th end, 5) Miss one end and reverse wavy twill along in horizontal axis, 6) Resultant is two blank diamonds. 7) Top – bottom is filled, left – right blank, is s double stitched honeycomb. Practice plan and design ’B’. 14 x 16 16 x 16 8
- 9. Ordinary honeycomb with equal warp and weft floats It is also possible to construct ordinary honeycomb designs with equal warp and weft floats after slight modification as shown at plan ‘C’, design ‘D’ and plan ‘E’, design ‘F’. Draft order required is straight for designs at ‘D’ on 8 x 8 and ‘F’ on 10 x 10. In this style there will be two similar interlacing ends and picks, which may affect the ridge formation. Plan ‘C’ is arranged on 8 x 8, 1) Left to right diagonal, 2) Reverse on 4th end, and 3) Reverse on 5th end. 4) Fill the longest two sides, is an ordinary honeycomb. Practice ‘E’ and ‘F’ 8 x 8 C D E F 10 x 10 9
- 10. Brighton Honeycomb weaves Brighton honeycomb weaves are quite different in construction from the usual type of ordinary honeycomb weaves. Draft orders required are straight to construct Brighton honeycomb weaves. Brighton honeycomb weaves are constructed on even threads per repeat, which is divisible with 4. Brighton honeycomb weaves will produce cellular formation on one side of the fabric. 10
- 11. Brighton honeycomb Main Features Brighton honeycomb is a complex structure. The main features of Brighton honeycomb are as follows – More honeycomb cells of varying size are produced in this weave. The fabric surface is also rough as ordinary honeycomb. When making the weave, the number of threads per repeat should always be a multiple of 4. The longest float should always be one less than half the number of threads in the repeat (i.e. 12/2 – 1 = 5). Straight drafting system is used to produce this Brighton honeycomb weave. 11
- 12. Brighton honeycomb Principles to construct Brighton honeycomb weave are: 1) Mark on repeat, which is multiples of 4, 2) Mark a left to right diagonal, 3) Mark double diagonal lines in the opposite direction, 4) Mark small diamonds on the double diagonal lines, 5) These small diamonds should not touch the main diagonal (left to right diagonal). 6) Maximum floats in the small diamond are one less than half the number of threads per repeat. 12
- 13. End use of honeycomb woven fabrics In honeycomb woven fabrics threads form ridges and hollows which give a cell like appearance to the textures. Both warp and weft threads float somewhat freely on both sides and are coupled with rough structures, result is formation of ridges and hollows. Honeycomb woven fabrics will absorb more water because of cell formation. Hence, honeycomb weaves are best suitable for bath towels. Requirement of bath towel is soft feel and absorbency. Both the characters are there with the honeycomb woven towels. Honeycomb weaves are combined with other weaves and used for the purpose of bed spread or bed cover cloth. 13
- 14. Difference between ordinary Honeycomb and Brighton honeycomb SNo Ordinary honey comb weave Brighton honey comb weave 1 Draft orders are pointed Draft orders are straight 2 Cellular formation on both the sides Cellular formation on one side 3 Design repeats on even number of threads Design repeats on even number of threads, divisible with 4 4 Minimum number of ends and picks per repeat is 6 x 6 Minimum number of ends and picks per repeat is 8 x 8 5 Diamond formation on any diagonal line Diamonds formation only on double diagonal lines 6 Maximum length of float is one less than the threads per repeat Maximum length of float is one less than half the threads per repeat 7 ordinary honeycomb weave each repeat only forms one cell. whereas a Brighton weave produces two large and two small cells 14
- 15. HUCK A BACK In case of honeycomb woven towels, there will be cell formation because of floats and stitches. Floats and stitches results the hollow like appearance which is called as cell formation. In case of huck – a – back weaves there is a definite area for floats and plain. The foundation is plain weave, which gives the cloths firmness and good wearing qualities, while comparatively long floats are formed by the yarns, so that the fabrics are rendered capable of readily absorbing moisture. In Huck – a – back weaves there is no cell formation but the qualities like absorbency and firmness is obtained because of floats and firmness. These weaves are largely used for linen and cotton towels, glass-cloths, etc Floats in the structure will have the characters of soft feel and absorbency, followed by compact plain structure. The draft which is generally used is so arranged that the odd threads are carried by the two front healds, and the even threads by the back two healds Hence huck – a – back woven towels will have more life than honeycomb woven towels. 15
- 16. Construction of Huck -A -Back Example: Let us make a Huckaback weave on 10 ends and 6 picks. Step 1: Make a 10 end and 6 pick grid and divide the grid in to four equal parts. Step 2: Draw the following motif in the lower left part. Step 3: Copy the same motif in the upper right corner. Step 4: Now fill the remaining two parts with plain weave. Motif Step 2 Step 3 Motif 16
- 17. 6X6 10X6 Construction of Huck -A -Back 17
- 18. Modified Huck – A – Back 10X10 Devon Huck – A – Back 18 x 18 (Honeycomb Huck – a – back) 16 x 16 (Grecian Huck – a – back) The loom equipment required dobby loom fitted with a fast reed mechanism. 18
- 19. Reversible huck a back Example: Let us make a reversible Huckaback weave on 10 ends and 8 picks. Step 1: Make a 10 end and 8 pick grid. Step 2: The motif size will be, Let us make this motif on 5x5 in the lower left corner of the grid. Copying this motif on the lower left corner of the grid. Step 3: Now copy reverse of this motif on the upper right corner of grid but i.e weft up were present it. Step 4: To make it truly reversible, we shift the motif in the upper right hand corner by one pick. Step 5: Now we fill the remaining portion with plain weave Motif Step 2 Step 3 Step 5 19
- 20. Mock Leno weaves The weaves produce effects that are similar in appearance to styles obtained with the aid of a doup mounting. Two kinds of structures are produced by the weaves—viz. 1. Perforated fabrics in imitation of open gauze effects, 2. Distorted thread effects in imitation of " spider " or " net " leno styles 20
- 21. Mock Leno weaves (Perforated fabrics in imitation of open gauze effects) Mock-leno weave: These weaves are generally produced in combination with a plain, twill, satin or other simple weaves or even with figuring, To produce striped fabrics which have a very close resemblance to true leno fabrics. So that the weaves produce effects that are similar in appearance with the gauze or leno styles. These weave form an open structure with small holes or gaps similar to leno weave fabrics. And the fabrics produce an imitation of leno effects, Due to this, the weaves are called mock leno weaves. Used for window curtains and dress goods. Where leno weaves are a mesh-like fabric, Which constructed by a pair of warp threads passed over and under the filling yarns, creating a geometric pattern. And used in households as a thermal blankets and curtains. 21
- 22. Mock Leno weaves These weaves are generally produced in combination with a plain, twill, satin or other simple weaves or even with figuring, To produce striped fabrics which have a very close resemblance to true leno fabrics. So that the weaves produce effects that are similar in appearance with the gauze or leno styles. These weave form an open structure with small holes or gaps similar to leno weave fabrics. And the fabrics produce an imitation of leno effects, Due to this, the weaves are called mock leno weaves. Used for window curtains and dress goods. 22
- 23. Construction of Mock Leno weaves These are constructed by reversing a small unit of the weave. The weaves are in sections and tend to oppose each other. The outer threads of adjacent sections tend to be forced apart. The manner of interweaving in each section permits the threads to readily approach each other. 23
- 24. Construction of Mock Leno weaves Example: Let us make a mock-leno weave on 10 ends and 6 picks. Step 1: Prepare a grid representing 10 ends and 6 picks and divide it in to four parts. Step 2: Copy the following motif in the lower left quarter of the grid. Copying in the grid we get: Step 3: Now copy this motif in the upper right quarter of the grid. Step 4: Now fill the remaining quarters with a weave that work exactly opposite to the weave chosen for motif. It means where there is warp up [a (x) mark] in the motif, replace it with weft up ( a blank mark) and where there is a blank in the motif, replace it with a (x) in the remaining quarters. Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 24
- 25. Construction of Mock Leno weaves Formation of holes or perforations in mock leno weaves: Mock leno weaves are constructed by reversing a small unit. Illustrations of these weaves are given below. Design “A” is repeating on 6 x 6, wherein a small unit of 3 x 3 is forming with warp and weft and the whole is reversed, can be seen in design “A”. In design “A”, 1 & 3 ends and 4 & 6 ends are similar interlacing ends. 1 & 3 ends are 1 down – 1 up, and 4 & 6 ends are 1 up – 1 down interlacements which are opposite. Second end is floating in between 1 & 3 ends for 3 up and 3 down. Because of the second end floating continuously, first and third ends will have the tendency to move closer. Similar is the case with 4 & 6 ends because 5th end is floating continuously 3 down and 3 up. Interlacement in both warp and weft is same. Hence 1, 2, 3 ends and 4, 5, 6 ends will form into groups and there by the formation of openness or holes or perforations. Denting each group of 3 ends in one dent and missing dent or dents in between can further increase holes or perforation formation. Design, draft order, peg plan and denting plans are as shown. 25
- 26. • Fig. shows the various types of perforated fabric designs. • Figures show the 3 X 3, 4 X 4 and 5 X 5 imitation gauzes. The warp threads run in groups with a space between, and are crossed by weft threads which are grouped together in similar manner. The designs A, B and C are dented 3, 4 and 5 ends respectively per split as shown above the plans. The arrows above the denting plans indicate the positions of the empty splits 3 X 3 5 X 5 4 X 4 Mock Leno weaves 26
- 27. Distorted Thread Effects 1. In Fig. the ground structure is plain weave, and the fourth and eleventh ends, which are distorted, float over all the plain picks, but pass under the fourth and eleventh picks. 2. The latter float over one group of plain ends, and under the next group in alternate order. 3. The distorted ends are placed on a separate beam and are given in more rapidly than the ground ends and hence they are drawn towards each other where the picks four and eleven, float over the ground ends. 4. As the latter floats occur in alternate order, the ends are drawn together in pairs, and then separated, as indicated by the zig zag lines. 5. The distorted warp effects are chiefly used in combination with other weaves in stripe form. 6. When used in stripe form the ends which form the zig zag effect should be somewhat crowded in the reed. Figure 10.3, shows a distorted weft design. 7. The design is arranged with plain ground similar to that in fig. 8. The floating ends pass over all the distorted picks, and alternately over the ground picks between. 9. Therefore the distorted picks, which float over all the ground ends, are alternately drawn together and separated, as shown by the zig zag lines of Fig. 27
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- 29. 29
- 30. Corkscrew weaves Corkscrew weaves are the real twilled rib weaves, and similar in many respects to the diagonal rib weaves. Twilled ribs arranged in warp direction are called, ”warp corkscrew weaves” and The twilled ribs arranged in weft direction are called, “weft corkscrew weaves”. But these twilled rib weaves are not directly constructed from simple twill weaves. Corkscrew weaves produce twilled rib weaves, but not the diagonal lines. To construct a corkscrew weave, base has to be regular sateen repeats on odd number of threads like 5 threads, 7 threads, 9 threads, 11 threads, etc., preferably with two move (2 out and one up). Base sateen with 2 move is preferred to have twilling lines but not diagonals in the final corkscrew weave which is the basic character of corkscrew weaves. 2 move sateen is possible only on odd number of threads per repeat and are regular sateen. Hence sateen weaves repeating on odd number of threads per repeat are more suitable to construct corkscrew weaves. However sateen weaves repeating on even number of threads per repeat are also possible with slight modification. 30
- 31. Warp corkscrew weaves Warp corkscrew weaves are constructed on sateen bases repeating on odd number of threads per repeat with 2 move (2 out, 1 up). These base sateen weaves are regular sateens. Hence the bases are shown on 5 x 5, 7 x 7, 9 x 9 and 11 x 11 at “A”, “B”, “C” and “D” respectively. Additional marks are added to each of the above bases in the vertical axis to have at least one mark more than the blanks including that of the base mark. Add 2 marks to base “A” in the vertical axis and is called as “E”. Then “E” becomes 3 up and 2 down. Similarly add 3, 4 and 5 marks to bases “B”, “C” and “D respectively. Resultant designs are called as “F”, “G” and “H” respectively. Finally “F” becomes 4 up and 3 down, “G” is 5 up and 4 down and “H” is 6 up and 5 down. Base sateen 5 x 5 Base sateen 7 x 7 Base sateen 9 x 9 Base sateen 11 x 11 A B C D 31
- 32. Warp corkscrew weaves on even number of threads In constructing warp corkscrew weaves that repeat on an even number of threads, it is necessary to employ a modification of the foregoing method. As shown at J and K in Fig., which represent the bases of the 8- and 10-shaft warp corkscrew weaves respectively, the repeat is upon twice as many ends as picks. A base line of marks, as shown by the crosses, is inserted on the odd vertical spaces, counting 2 Then a second line—indicated by dots—is run in on the even vertical spaces, as centrally as possible. The design is completed by arranging each vertical space with two more marks than blanks, as shown at L, or with the marks and blanks equal, as represented at M. In the latter case, however, the weft shows slightly on the surface of the cloth. J K L M 32
- 33. 13-shaft warp corkscrew (Used for fine worsted coatings) The standard 13-shaft warp corkscrew, which has been extensively used for fine worsted coatings, is based on a 13-thread sateen, counting 4 outwards, as shown at Fig. N . Marks are added to the base marks in the order of 4/ 2, 4, / 2, as indicated at 0, and very flat twill lines are formed in the cloth, as represented by the different marks in the design N O 33
- 34. Weft corkscrew weaves Weft corkscrew weaves are exactly opposite to warp corkscrew weaves. Simple and ordinary weft corkscrew weaves are constructed on odd number of threads per repeat. Bases are regular sateen with 2 upward and one outward moves as shown at “A”, “B”, “C” and “D” on 5 x 5, 7 x 7, 9 x 9 and 11 x 11 respectively. Additional marks are added horizontally. While adding additional marks, ensure that at least one blank space will be greater than the weave marks in pick way including the base mark. The following are the marks and blanks in the final designs. Base weave 5x5 B Base weave 9 x 9 C Base weave 11 x11 D Base weave 7 x 7 B 34
- 35. Weft corkscrew weaves on even number of threads Base weave 8 x 8 35
- 36. Crepe weaves The term crepe is applied to the weaves, which do not have twill diagonals or any other prominent effects. Fabrics, which will have subdued effects or being covered by minute spots or dot effects, are called as “Crepe”. These weaves are applied alone and in combination with other weaves. Crepe weaves are very largely used as ground weaves in figured fabrics. Crepe weaves are also known as, “Oatmeal weaves”. Crepe effects are produced in two ways: 1) By the use of crepe yarn (high twisted yarn) and 2) By employing the actual crepe weaves. Crepe woven fabrics must not be confused with that of crepe effects imparted by the use of crepe yarn, which produces highly irregular effects and texture in plain woven fabrics. Some times high twisted crepe yarns are combined with crepe weaves and this combination results in cloth very markedly pebbly and puckered (seersucker) effects. 36
- 37. Construction of Crepe weaves Construction upon sateen base, Combination of floating weaves with plain thread, Crepe Weaves produced by Reversing By insertion of one weave over another 37
- 38. Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen bases: Crepe weaves are constructed in various methods and styles. One such method is upon a sateen base. Simplest sateen base is on 8 x 8 with 3 move is shown at “A” is a regular sateen. Additional marks are added to the base in such a way that there should not be any prominent effect in the resultant design. additional marks are added to “A” and the resultant design is shown at “B”. additional marks are added to “A” and the resultant design is shown at “C”. In case of “B” warp and weft floats are equal and hence same effect on both face and back. Where as in “C” warp floats are more than weft floats. Base weave 8 x 8 with 3 move 3 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 38
- 39. Sateen base on 10 x 10 One simplest sateen base on 10 x 10 with 3 move is shown at “D”. Additional marks of are added to the base “D” and the resultant design is shown at “E”. The term, ‘Sponge’ is applied to the design “E” because of equal number of marks and blanks on face and back, also in same size and shape, hence same effect on both face and back . Base weave 10 x 10 with 3 move 1 3 1 1 1 2 39
- 40. It is also possible to construct better effective crepe weaves on ir-regular sateen bases because of lack of twilling lines. ir-regular sateen bases on 6 threads and 8 threads are shown at “H” and “I”. Base weave 6 x 6 1 2 1 1 Base weave 8 x 8 40
- 41. CREPE WEAVE Combination of floating weaves with plain threads: In this system of constructing crepe weaves plain threads are combined with that of a floating weave which are regular or ir – regular sateen bases. Suitable additional marks are added sateen base to result the formation of perfect crepe weave. Select sateen base for the purpose of combining with plain threads. If a 4 thread ir – regular sateen base is selected as float weave, the final crepe weave will repeat on twice the number of ends and picks of the float weave. In this case of 4 thread ir – regular sateen base, mark on 8 x 8 for the insertion of float weave to get complete crepe weave. 41
- 42. Construction procedures of crepe weave Step 1: Mark design area on 8 x 8 and draw plan with plain threads only on odd ends. Step 2: Plain ends are arranged in the same interlacing order (1/1 ) on all the odd ends. Step 3: Combine 4 thread ir – regular sateen weave with the plain above on even ends and odd picks to have crepe weave base. Step : 4Add additional marks of one up-one down, one up-three down and one up ( 1/1,1/3, 1/1 ) to all sateen base marks in the vertical axis. Step 5: Completed crepe design is shown at “A” which forms small units with warp and weft. PLAIN PLAN CREPE PLAN CREPE WEAVE 42
- 43. Insertion of one weave over another: This method of constructing crepe weaves consists of inserting two different weaves repeating on same number of threads per repeat or different number of threads per repeat one over the other. Base weaves for insertion of one over the other are preferably sateen bases of regular and ir-regular or both ir-regular. Crepe effect is more attractive in case of both the sateen bases are ir-regular. The sateen bases selected are 8 thread regular sateen with one additional mark on the right side to sateen mark and the other base is a satinette. First base on 8 threads with one additional mark is shown at “A” and the second base on 4 threads is shown at “B”. Both “A” and “B” are combined by inserting “B” over “A” and the final crepe design is shown at “C” repeating on 8 x 8. When one weave is inserted over other weave, there may be possibility for over lapping of weave marks. 43
- 44. Construction of crepe weave by reversing of a small motif In this method a simple motif can be chosen and reversed at intervals within the design repeat to get an irregular effect as shown in Fig. 44
- 45. End uses of crepe weave fabrics Crepe weaves are frequently employed in conjunction with other elementary weaves, in order to produce a variety of different and contrasting effects in elaborate jacquard designs for brocade and similar fabrics. They are also employed in the production of cotton piece goods that are usually woven in the grey state, to be afterwards bleached and used for a variety of domestic purposes. Crepe fabrics are also sometimes printed with decorative designs and sold as a light and cheap material known as “cretonne”, which is employed extensively as loose coverings for furniture, antimacassars, covers, curtains and wall hangings, and for many other similar household articles. 45
- 46. Colour and weave effect When a fabric is woven with a particular weave using two or more colours in a particular pattern, a colour and weave effect is produced. In such an effect the weave tends to show a discontinuity of the colours of the warp and weft and the colour shows on the face of the fabric, irrespective of the warp or weft float. Colour and weave effects enable the designer to observe the effect that a colour plan will produce for a given weave. They can be indicated on point paper and serve as an experimental tool in assessing the effect. Three important parameters are required to be known, namely (a) The order of warping (b) The order of wefting, and (c) The weave 46
- 47. The orders of colouring the threads can be classified as follows: (a) Simple warping and simple wefting (b) Simple warping and compound wefting (c) Simple wefting and compound warping (d) Compound warping and compound wefting In the first and the last the order of warping may be the same, or different from the order of wefting. Simple stripe and check patterns may be applied to each order of colouring 47
- 48. Effect produced by simple colour and weave feffect Simple colour and weave effect, Continuous line effects, Hound’s tooth patterns, Bird’s eye and spot effects, Hairline stripes, Step patterns, and All over effects 48
- 49. Continuous line effects 49
- 50. Hound’s tooth patterns, 50
- 51. Bird’s eye and spot effects 51
- 53. Step patterns 53
- 54. All over effects 54
- 55. Combination of weaves Stripe and check designs result from the combination, in equal or unequal spaces, of two, three, or more weaves or weave variations. Weaves that are suitable for combining in stripe form can very frequently be combined also in check form, while each transverse section of a check design, can generally be used alone in forming a stripe pattern. For these reasons, and in order to avoid repetition, the two classes of designs are described and illustrated together. The introduction of differently coloured threads may modify the appearance of both stripe and check weave combinations to a considerable extent, weave structure is considered. 55
- 56. Forms of stripes and checks Weave combinations are employed in nearly all kinds of fabrics and in every class of material; the kind of cloth to be woven, and its purpose, largely influence the form or style of the design, and the selection of the weaves that are combined. As a rule, very diverse form is more suitable for stripes than for checks, because in the latter the surface of the cloth is more broken up by the weave changes than in the former. In both styles the form should be originated, not haphazardly, but orderly; the degree of contrast of space and of weave between the several sections being kept clearly in mind. 56
- 57. Forms of stripes and checks • Figure illustrates the various forms of weave checks that are in general use, and in this case also it will be understood that different weaves may be introduced in a more varied manner than is indicated by the different markings. • Thus, the form shown at A, in which the sections are equal in size, permits of the combination of two, three, or four weaves, although two only are employed most frequently. • The pattern indicated at B, in which the spaces vary in size, is particularly suitable for the combination of three weaves, the large and small squares being in different weaves, and all the oblong spaces in a third. • C and D are modifications of A, while E shows a further development of the combination of spaces of different sizes. • The form of check, indicated at F, is too stiff for ordinary purposes, but the introduction of an overcheck, as shown at G, greatly improves the effect, particularly if the over checking lines are emphasised. • Such arrangements as those given at H and I are especially useful when it is desired to show an expensive material prominently on the surface. 57
- 58. Selection of weaves In selecting weaves for combination it is necessary to take into account the nature of the cloth as to: (a) The class of material; (b) The thickness of the threads and the number of threads per unit space; and (c) The kind of finish that is applied. Either simple or elaborate weaves may be employed when the threads are smooth and even—e.g. cotton, linen, worsted, similar man-made staple yarns and all filament materials—or, if the finishing process removes the loose fibres from the surface of the cloth; because the smooth thread structure that is formed renders the weaves clearly apparent. Woollen cloths vary considerably according to the class of yarn that is used and the finish that is employed, but as the threads, in any case, are somewhat rough and uneven, weaves of a fancy character are usually unsuitable. 58
- 59. Selection of weaves The finest woollen cloths, which are finished with a clear face, however, admit of the combina tion of such weaves as twills, sateens, whipcords, ribs and corkscrews, but for similar cloths which have a raised or 'dress' face, and for rough cheviots and tweeds, only the simplest weaves are suitable. When different materials are used in a cloth weaves should be employed which will bring the better and more expensive threads chiefly to the surface. More elaborate weaves may be employed in fine yarns and fine setts than in thick yarns and coarse setts, because in producing a given length of float more threads are passed over in the former case, which enables more detail to be introduced in the weaves. In any material, if a raised finish is applied, the weave structure is more or less concealed by the surface fibres, and in such circumstances it is wasteful to employ elaborate weaves. A clear finish, on the other hand, develops the weaves so that a design is shown under the most favourable conditions. 59
- 60. Joining of weaves It is very important to avoid the formation of long floats where the different sections of a design are in contact. Certain equal-sided twills, and weaves that are the reverse of each other, may be arranged to cut at the junctions— that is, with warp float against weft float. If the weaves will not cut they require to be carefully joined together, and, if possible, no longer float should be made at the junctions than there is in the weaves that are combined. In joining the weaves vertically the prevention of long weft floats on the face side of the cloth is of greatest importance, whereas at horizontal junctions (in check designs) chiefly the long surface warp floats have to be avoided. Long floats on the underside are of secondary importance, but they should be prevented if possible, as they may adversely affect the wearing properties of the cloth. Sometimes it is necessary to modify one or both weaves where they are in contact in order to make them join properly, and in some cases a weave with a minimum length of float—such as plain—is introduced between two weaves. 60
- 61. Relative firmness of the weaves In stripe designs, if the warp is brought from one beam, the weaves that are combined should be similar in firmness. If there is much difference in the relative number of intersections in the weaves, the ends should be brought from separate beams to correspond, in order that the take-up of each series may be properly regulated. For example, the plain ends of the stripe design given at A in the Figure will take up much more rapidly than the ends that form the 3-and-3 hopsack, hence if all the warp is brought from one beam the plain ends will become very tight, and the others slack. This will not only make it very difficult, if not impossible, to weave the cloth, but will result in the fabric having an uneven or 'cockled' appearance. 61
- 62. Relative firmness of the weaves In check designs similarity in the firmness of the weaves is not of the same importance, because succeeding sections of the design compensate for one another, so that the average take-up of the ends is about equal. Thus, 3-and-3 hopsack weave and plain, when combined in check form, as shown at Figure B, will weave all right, except that in a heavily wefted cloth the picks tend to group together in the hopsack sections, and to spread out in the plain sections, and, therefore, are distorted in the cloth. This is illustrated in Figure C in which a fabric is represented that is woven in a check combination of hopsack and plain weave similar to the design, Figure B 62
- 63. Combination of weaves CLASSIFICATION OF STRIPE AND CHECK DESIGNS Stripe and check weave combinations may be conveniently classified as follows : (1) Designs in which the same weave—usually a twill—is used throughout, but turned in opposite directions. (2) Designs in which the sections are in different weaves that are derived from the same base weave. (3) Combinations of warp and weft face weaves. (4) Combinations of different weaves. 63
- 64. 1.Effects produced in one weave turned in opposite direction A stripe and check weave of this class is shown in Figure. In this 3/3 twill of opposite direction” S ” twill and “Z” twill has been used to produce stripe and check effect. The principle of herringbone junction at each weave at reversal line. In fine warp-face cloths, such weaves as warp satins, warp twills, whipcords and warp corkscrews—twilling in opposite directions—are suitable for stripe patterns when a strong contrast between the sections is not desired. Mostly, however, they are not fit for checks, because the preponderance of warp float makes it impossible, as a rule, to avoid the formation of long surface floats at the horizontal junctions. Draft view Fabric view Stripe effect Check effect 64
- 65. 2. Combinations of weaves derived from the same base weave When the same base weave is used throughout a design, two or more different systems of drafting are employed; a stripe design resulting from a simple lifting plan, while a check design is formed by constructing the lifting plan in sections upon bases which correspond with the draft. For instance, the design given at L in Figure, which is based upon an 8-thread twill weave, is produced by means of a combination of straight and sateen drafting, as indicated at M. If the straight twill given in the lower portion of the plan N is used for the lifting plan, a stripe design will be formed consisting of the first 8 picks of L; whereas the complete check design results from using the whole of the plan N for the lifting plan. It will be seen that the shaded squares in N, which show the basis of the lifting plan, are arranged vertically in the same order as the marks are indicated horizontally in the draft M. The twill weave shown in the upper right-hand section of L is produced by the combination of a sateen draft and a lifting plan that is based upon the sateen. It does not necessarily follow that such a result will be obtained in all cases, as sometimes the combination simply produces another sateen re-arrangement of the twill. 65
- 66. 3. Combination of warp and weft face weaves These produce the clearest effects in the cloth, particularly if there is a difference in colour between the warp and weft yarns. Some of the possibilities of producing stripe designs on this basis have been explored in the section devoted to the warp and weft faced herringbone twills, and further development of these into diamond forms has in effect resulted in the formation of dice checks. A simple dice check design is represented in Figure, and many similar effects are produced on this principle by combining two opposite twill or sateen weaves. It is particularly necessary, in dice patterns, that the weaves cut at the junctions both vertically and horizontally in order that the sections will be firmly bound at the edges; otherwise the outermost threads, which are floated, are liable to slip over the threads in the adjacent sections. 66
- 67. 4. Combinations of different weave In this class of stripe and check designs, there is practically no limitation to the variety of effect that can be obtained except what is imposed by the loom and the materials employed. For fabrics such as suitings and coatings the patterns are not striking in appearance, and designs of the class shown at A, B, and C in Figure are employed, in each of which it will be noted that the weaves join well together. In the warp and weft rib sections of the design C, the threads should be more finely set than in the body of the check. 67
- 68. Stripe and Check effect by combination of weaves twill and plain, Stripe Check 68
- 69. Stripe and Check effect by combination of weaves mock leno and plain Stripe Check 69
- 70. Stripe and Check effect by combination of weaves honey comb and plain Stripe Check 70
- 71. Text book and References 1. Grosicki Z. J. “Watson’s Textile Design and Colour: Vo.1, Woodhead Publications, Cambride England, 2004. 2. Grosicki Z. J., “Watson’s Advanced Textile Design and Colour”, Vol.II, Butterworths, London, 1989. REFERENCES: 1. Wilson J., “Handbook of Textile Design”, Textile Instiute, Manchester, 2001. 2. Home C.E., “Geometric Symmetry in Patterns and Tilings” Textile Institute, Manchester, 2000. 3. Seyam A. M. “Structural Design of Woven Fabrics, Theory and Practice” Textile Institute, Manchester, 2002. 4. Geormer D, “Woven Structure and Design, part 1: Single Cloth Construction: WIRA, U.K. 1986. 5. Geomer D, “Woven Structure and Design, Part 2: Compound Structures” WIRA, U.K., 1989 Dr. N. Gokarneshan “Fabric structure and design”, New Age International (P) Limited, Publishers 4835/24, Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002. 71
- 72. Thank you 72