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Faculty of Geosciences
Faculty of Geosciences
Beach-dune interaction
for dynamic coastal
management
Gerben Ruessink
Faculty of Geosciences
Beach-dune interaction
Urgency:
• nature restoration
• long-term coastal safety
No sand sharing: (1) loss in geomorphological dynamics
(2) loss in biodiversity
(3) no vertical growth with sea-level rise
Dune erosion Dune growth
Faculty of Geosciences
Building with Nature: Sand Engine
5 July 2011 10 January 2012
1 October 2013 1 oktober 20134 May 2015
Faculty of Geosciences
Building with Nature: Sand Engine
Beach-dune interaction:
• Short gradients (new embryo dunes)
• Foredune growth ~ 15 m3/m/year
• No dune erosion
Faculty of Geosciences
Building for Nature: NWNKern
Faculty of Geosciences
Building for Nature: NWNKern
Trenches:
V- to U-shape
Construction After 2 years
Foredune
scarping
Sedimentation
lobes
Faculty of Geosciences
Combination: HPZ
Faculty of Geosciences
Questions
• How much sand is actually blown toward the dunes?
• Which factors affect this amount?
• What to expect from dune remobilization?
• Are present-day large-scale measures effective?
• Can nourishments and dune remobilization be combined?
• …
Faculty of Geosciences
Needs
• Experiments: Learning by doing
• Long-term (years) monitoring with high resolution (seasons)
• Close co-operation between stakeholders and scientists
• Models with different complexity
• …
Faculty of Geosciences
Beach-dune interaction: models
Keysers et al. (2014)
Plos ONE
Poseidon Aeolus
Faculty of Geosciences
My projectBeach-dune interaction: models
Need
Accurate predictive
model of aeolian sand
supply
Challenges
Supply limitation
1. How wet?
2. When?
3. How much?
4. Upscaling
Faculty of Geosciences
Timing of aeolian events
Potential transport
• Events (4 hrs > 8 m/s)
• Hsu (1974)
Observed transport
• Sand-strip activity
Faculty of Geosciences
Timing of aeolian events
Mismatch between potential and actual events:
• Moderate wind speeds: considerable aeolian activity
• Large speeds are large: no aeolian activity
Faculty of Geosciences
Considerable aeolian activity under moderate,
shore-oblique/parallel winds
Timing of aeolian events
Faculty of Geosciences
Timing of aeolian events
No aeolian activity under strong shore-normal
/ oblique winds because of surge
Faculty of Geosciences
Summary
• From preventing dune-erosion to beach-dune interaction
• Building with and for Nature
• Practice-inspired questions and scientific ideas
• Pilot experiments: ‘Learning by doing’ with long-term
monitoring to eventually predictively understand
Only then ready for the challenges of the decades to come
Faculty of Geosciences
Faculty of Geosciences
Surface moisture content
saturated
Reflection (dB)
Moisturecontent(%)
dry
Faculty of Geosciences
Surface moisture content
Faculty of Geosciences
Mismatch between potential and actual events:
• Moderate wind speeds: considerable aeolian activity
• Large speeds are large: no aeolian activity
Timing of aeolian events
Faculty of Geosciences
Transport magnitude
Faculty of Geosciences
Results (Xaver)
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20Elevation(mMSL)
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20
Elevation(mMSL)
Distance (m)
before
after
I. Destruction of new foredune and embryo dunes
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
Elevatio
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20Elevation(mMSL)
Distance (m)
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20
Elevation(mMSL)
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20
Elevation(mMSL)
Distance (m)
II. Failure of dune front with successive rotational slides
before
after
Faculty of Geosciences
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20
Elevation(mMSL)
-80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30
0
5
10
15
20
Elevation(mMSL)
Distance (m)
before
after storm
recovery
Results (post-Xaver)

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Beach-dune interaction for dynamic coastal management

  • 1. Faculty of Geosciences Faculty of Geosciences Beach-dune interaction for dynamic coastal management Gerben Ruessink
  • 2. Faculty of Geosciences Beach-dune interaction Urgency: • nature restoration • long-term coastal safety No sand sharing: (1) loss in geomorphological dynamics (2) loss in biodiversity (3) no vertical growth with sea-level rise Dune erosion Dune growth
  • 3. Faculty of Geosciences Building with Nature: Sand Engine 5 July 2011 10 January 2012 1 October 2013 1 oktober 20134 May 2015
  • 4. Faculty of Geosciences Building with Nature: Sand Engine Beach-dune interaction: • Short gradients (new embryo dunes) • Foredune growth ~ 15 m3/m/year • No dune erosion
  • 5. Faculty of Geosciences Building for Nature: NWNKern
  • 6. Faculty of Geosciences Building for Nature: NWNKern Trenches: V- to U-shape Construction After 2 years Foredune scarping Sedimentation lobes
  • 8. Faculty of Geosciences Questions • How much sand is actually blown toward the dunes? • Which factors affect this amount? • What to expect from dune remobilization? • Are present-day large-scale measures effective? • Can nourishments and dune remobilization be combined? • …
  • 9. Faculty of Geosciences Needs • Experiments: Learning by doing • Long-term (years) monitoring with high resolution (seasons) • Close co-operation between stakeholders and scientists • Models with different complexity • …
  • 10. Faculty of Geosciences Beach-dune interaction: models Keysers et al. (2014) Plos ONE Poseidon Aeolus
  • 11. Faculty of Geosciences My projectBeach-dune interaction: models Need Accurate predictive model of aeolian sand supply Challenges Supply limitation 1. How wet? 2. When? 3. How much? 4. Upscaling
  • 12. Faculty of Geosciences Timing of aeolian events Potential transport • Events (4 hrs > 8 m/s) • Hsu (1974) Observed transport • Sand-strip activity
  • 13. Faculty of Geosciences Timing of aeolian events Mismatch between potential and actual events: • Moderate wind speeds: considerable aeolian activity • Large speeds are large: no aeolian activity
  • 14. Faculty of Geosciences Considerable aeolian activity under moderate, shore-oblique/parallel winds Timing of aeolian events
  • 15. Faculty of Geosciences Timing of aeolian events No aeolian activity under strong shore-normal / oblique winds because of surge
  • 16. Faculty of Geosciences Summary • From preventing dune-erosion to beach-dune interaction • Building with and for Nature • Practice-inspired questions and scientific ideas • Pilot experiments: ‘Learning by doing’ with long-term monitoring to eventually predictively understand Only then ready for the challenges of the decades to come
  • 18. Faculty of Geosciences Surface moisture content saturated Reflection (dB) Moisturecontent(%) dry
  • 19. Faculty of Geosciences Surface moisture content
  • 20. Faculty of Geosciences Mismatch between potential and actual events: • Moderate wind speeds: considerable aeolian activity • Large speeds are large: no aeolian activity Timing of aeolian events
  • 22. Faculty of Geosciences Results (Xaver) -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20Elevation(mMSL) -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20 Elevation(mMSL) Distance (m) before after I. Destruction of new foredune and embryo dunes -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 Elevatio -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20Elevation(mMSL) Distance (m) -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20 Elevation(mMSL) -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20 Elevation(mMSL) Distance (m) II. Failure of dune front with successive rotational slides before after
  • 23. Faculty of Geosciences -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20 Elevation(mMSL) -80 -70 -60 -50 -40 -30 0 5 10 15 20 Elevation(mMSL) Distance (m) before after storm recovery Results (post-Xaver)