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All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Elements of Textile
Anil Kumar
Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Design
Pt. Lakhmichand State University of Performing & Visual
Arts, Rohtak
E-Mail-anilkumar@plcsupva.ac.in
Mobile.9729138649
2
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Weaving  “Interlacement of warp and weft”
•Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right
angles to make a fabric.
•A woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns
3
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Weaving Table top loom
Parts of Table top loom
4
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Weaving loom
Pawer loom
5
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Loom
 A machine for producing fabric by weaving.
Handloom Power looms
Air jet
Rapier
Shuttle less looms
Shuttle looms
Water jet
Projectile
6
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Weaving Process
7
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Weaving & Its Parts
8
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
 Primary motions:
1. Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves.
2. Picking : Insertion of weft.
3. Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth.
 Secondary motion:
1. Take up motion: Taking up the woven cloth and winding on the cloth
roller.
2. Let-off motion: Letting of the warp wound on the warp beam when the
cloth is taken up on the cloth roller
9
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
 Primary motions:
1. Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves.
2. Picking : Insertion of weft.
3. Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth.
Shedding Picking Beating
10
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Classification of Weave Patterns
The two major categories based on the types of weaves are Basic or Simple
weave and Compound or complex weaves which are further categorized in the
following categories:
•Basic/Simple Weaves
 Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves
Dobby Weave &Jacquard Weave
Double Cloth & Multilayer
Surface Figure Weaves
Bedford cord etc.
11
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Basic Weave
Plain Weave :
Most simple and most common type of construction
,Inexpensive to produce, durable ,Flat, tight surface is
conducive to printing and other finishes
•Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes
alternately under and over the warp yarns
•Common Fabrics: Cotton calicos, cheesecloth,
gingham, percale, voile
•Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery
12
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Derivatives of Plain weave
13
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Derivatives of Plain weave
Warp Rib
These are produced by extending the
plain weave in warp wary direction.
Figure shows the warp rib weaves
constructed on regular and irregular
basis.
At A, B and C are seen regular warp rib
weaves and at D, is shown the irregular
warp rib weave. E and F show the
interlacing of D and A respectively.
-
14
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Derivatives of Plain weave
Weft Rib
These are constructed by extending the
plain weave in weft direction In both the
warp and weft rib weaves, the
appearance of the cloth depends on the
respective thread settings, and to achieve
good effects, it is necessary to weave a
weft rib with a high number of picks per
inch and a comparatively low number of
ends per inch.
15
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Basket weave
• Made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings
• Interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel
path
• Most common are 2x2 or 4x4
• Variations include 2x1 and 2x3
fabrics that have a basket weave:
• Oxford cloth
• Duck
• Canvas
• Hopsacking
16
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Twill Weave
Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or
other design ,The design is enhanced with colored yarn.
• Method of Construction:
• Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or
more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left
• Common Fabrics:
• Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed
• Household Uses:
• Upholstery, comforters, pillows
17
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Derivatives of Twill Weave
Ordinary or continuous twills
Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills
Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves
Combination twills
Broken twills
Figured and other related twill weaves
The above types of twills are further sub classified as:
•Warp face twills
•Weft face twills
•Warp and weft face twills
•Continuous Twills
18
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
2/2 Twill 2/1 Twill Triple twill 16 x16 Steep twill,
Derivatives of Twill weaves
19
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
• Satin & Sateen
• Smooth, soft luster , Excellent Drape
,Floats snag easily
• Method of Construction:
• Floats one warp yarn over four or
more weft yarns, then tied down with
one thread, resulting in a smooth face
• Common Fabrics:
• Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of
fabrics such as cotton.
• Household Uses:
• Draperies, quilts
Element of Textile
20
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
• Satin & Sateen
Element of Textile
21
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Knitted Fabrics
 Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into
a series of interlocking loops to make a
fabric
 Knits provide stretch
 Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will
not fray
 Single knit fabric curls to the right side when
stretched
 Interlock knit is thicker
22
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Non-woven
• Does not have a distinct pattern
• Generally stiff and somewhat scratchy
• Method of Construction:
• Fibers are bonded by mechanical or chemical
means
• Common Fabrics:
• Pelon
• Household Uses:
• Bedding, backing for quilts, dust cloths for
box springs, carpet backing, and upholstered
furniture
23
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Felt Fabric
• Soft, non-woven, can pull apart
• Method of Construction:
• Felting occurs when heat, moisture, agitation,
and pressure are applied to wool fibers, causing
the fibers to interlock permanently.
• Common Fabrics:
• Felt
• Household Uses:
• Padding, sound-proofing, insulation, filtering,
and polishing, wall hangings and other
decorative items
24
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Foam
• Soft, air holes, absorbent, resilient
• Method of Construction:
• Rubber or polyurethane substance with air
incorporated causing foaming, quite inexpensive,
rots
• Common Fabrics:
• Sponges
• Household Uses:
• Carpet backing, padding, pillows and cushions,
laminates to other fabrics
25
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Element of Textile
Film:-
• Plastic-like material, repels liquid, stiff
• Mildews, rots, tears
• Inexpensive, fairly durable
• Method of Construction:
• Made from synthetic solutions formed into thin
sheets
• Common Fabrics:
• Vinyl
• Household Uses:
• Tablecloths, shower curtains, draperies,
upholstery, and wall coverings
26
All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Thank you

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Element of Textile I Handloom I Parts of Looms & Accessories I Basic Weaves Fabric Structures Plain Weave I Twill Weave I Sateen weave.

  • 1. 1 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Elements of Textile Anil Kumar Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Design Pt. Lakhmichand State University of Performing & Visual Arts, Rohtak E-Mail-anilkumar@plcsupva.ac.in Mobile.9729138649
  • 2. 2 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Weaving  “Interlacement of warp and weft” •Weaving occurs when two or more yarns are woven together at right angles to make a fabric. •A woven fabric consists of warp and weft yarns
  • 3. 3 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Weaving Table top loom Parts of Table top loom
  • 4. 4 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Weaving loom Pawer loom
  • 5. 5 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Loom  A machine for producing fabric by weaving. Handloom Power looms Air jet Rapier Shuttle less looms Shuttle looms Water jet Projectile
  • 6. 6 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Weaving Process
  • 7. 7 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Weaving & Its Parts
  • 8. 8 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile  Primary motions: 1. Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves. 2. Picking : Insertion of weft. 3. Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth.  Secondary motion: 1. Take up motion: Taking up the woven cloth and winding on the cloth roller. 2. Let-off motion: Letting of the warp wound on the warp beam when the cloth is taken up on the cloth roller
  • 9. 9 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile  Primary motions: 1. Shedding: Dividing the warp threads in to two halves. 2. Picking : Insertion of weft. 3. Beating up: Beating the weft up to fell of the cloth. Shedding Picking Beating
  • 10. 10 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Classification of Weave Patterns The two major categories based on the types of weaves are Basic or Simple weave and Compound or complex weaves which are further categorized in the following categories: •Basic/Simple Weaves  Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves Dobby Weave &Jacquard Weave Double Cloth & Multilayer Surface Figure Weaves Bedford cord etc.
  • 11. 11 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Basic Weave Plain Weave : Most simple and most common type of construction ,Inexpensive to produce, durable ,Flat, tight surface is conducive to printing and other finishes •Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns •Common Fabrics: Cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile •Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery
  • 12. 12 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Derivatives of Plain weave
  • 13. 13 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Derivatives of Plain weave Warp Rib These are produced by extending the plain weave in warp wary direction. Figure shows the warp rib weaves constructed on regular and irregular basis. At A, B and C are seen regular warp rib weaves and at D, is shown the irregular warp rib weave. E and F show the interlacing of D and A respectively. -
  • 14. 14 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Derivatives of Plain weave Weft Rib These are constructed by extending the plain weave in weft direction In both the warp and weft rib weaves, the appearance of the cloth depends on the respective thread settings, and to achieve good effects, it is necessary to weave a weft rib with a high number of picks per inch and a comparatively low number of ends per inch.
  • 15. 15 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Basket weave • Made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings • Interlacing pattern similar to plain—two or more yarns follow same parallel path • Most common are 2x2 or 4x4 • Variations include 2x1 and 2x3 fabrics that have a basket weave: • Oxford cloth • Duck • Canvas • Hopsacking
  • 16. 16 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Twill Weave Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design ,The design is enhanced with colored yarn. • Method of Construction: • Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left • Common Fabrics: • Denim, gabardine, serge, tweed • Household Uses: • Upholstery, comforters, pillows
  • 17. 17 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Derivatives of Twill Weave Ordinary or continuous twills Zig zag , pointed or wavy twills Rearranged twills such as satin/sateen weaves and corkscrew weaves Combination twills Broken twills Figured and other related twill weaves The above types of twills are further sub classified as: •Warp face twills •Weft face twills •Warp and weft face twills •Continuous Twills
  • 18. 18 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile 2/2 Twill 2/1 Twill Triple twill 16 x16 Steep twill, Derivatives of Twill weaves
  • 19. 19 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) • Satin & Sateen • Smooth, soft luster , Excellent Drape ,Floats snag easily • Method of Construction: • Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face • Common Fabrics: • Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton. • Household Uses: • Draperies, quilts Element of Textile
  • 20. 20 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) • Satin & Sateen Element of Textile
  • 21. 21 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Knitted Fabrics  Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into a series of interlocking loops to make a fabric  Knits provide stretch  Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will not fray  Single knit fabric curls to the right side when stretched  Interlock knit is thicker
  • 22. 22 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Non-woven • Does not have a distinct pattern • Generally stiff and somewhat scratchy • Method of Construction: • Fibers are bonded by mechanical or chemical means • Common Fabrics: • Pelon • Household Uses: • Bedding, backing for quilts, dust cloths for box springs, carpet backing, and upholstered furniture
  • 23. 23 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Felt Fabric • Soft, non-woven, can pull apart • Method of Construction: • Felting occurs when heat, moisture, agitation, and pressure are applied to wool fibers, causing the fibers to interlock permanently. • Common Fabrics: • Felt • Household Uses: • Padding, sound-proofing, insulation, filtering, and polishing, wall hangings and other decorative items
  • 24. 24 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Foam • Soft, air holes, absorbent, resilient • Method of Construction: • Rubber or polyurethane substance with air incorporated causing foaming, quite inexpensive, rots • Common Fabrics: • Sponges • Household Uses: • Carpet backing, padding, pillows and cushions, laminates to other fabrics
  • 25. 25 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Element of Textile Film:- • Plastic-like material, repels liquid, stiff • Mildews, rots, tears • Inexpensive, fairly durable • Method of Construction: • Made from synthetic solutions formed into thin sheets • Common Fabrics: • Vinyl • Household Uses: • Tablecloths, shower curtains, draperies, upholstery, and wall coverings
  • 26. 26 All Right Reserve © State Institute Of Design Lect. Anil Kumar (Textile Design) Thank you