Essential oils presentation

Flavours, Fragrances & Essential Oils Art, Agriculture,Science, Industry & Entrepreneurship Presentation by Murray Hunter © Murray Hunter 2007

Introduction Definitions The Nature of the Industry The Olfactory System and Classification of Fragrances 5. Uses and Markets Natural Product Chemistry Extraction Theory and Practice 8. Aroma Chemicals 9. The Essential Oil Development Process 10. Screening Process 11. Development Process 12. Problems in Developing New Essential Oils 13. Regulatory Requirements 14. Flavour & Fragrance Operations 15. Organic Farming 16. Some Essential Oils Economics 17. Some Fine Fragrance Profiles 18. Formulary of Finished Products 19. The Trends of Fine Fragrance 20. Essential Oils in Thailand 21. Potential Research Projects 22. Potential Careers in the Industry 23. References

Introduction Some Generic Global Issues

Global Warming, The Food and Economic Crisis

Average age of farmers in Malaysia

Templating of Natural Aromatic Molecules

Typical Research Model Idea from Research Institute, University faculty or individual within them Undertake study with objectives interesting to researchers Primarily single discipline approach Objectives based on discipline thinking Project results and conclusion Publish Paper at Conference Add to CV Little commercial interest: Private sector unaware No or limited economic study or little consideration to scale up potential NB: to bioprocess engineer has this as a fundamental consideration (difference between scientist and engineer)

Specific Issues & Challenges To Malaysia

Low Crop Diversity in Malaysia

Limited number of students interested in natural product chemistry & agro-entrepreneurship Very few world class professors

Essential Oil A volatile oil obtained from a wide variety of plant, scrub, and tree species and from various parts of the plant anatomy, such as the roots, rhizomes, wood bark, leaves, stems, fruit, flowers and seeds. Usually extracted by hydro or steam distillation, expression or effleurage - Hunter 1996

Concretes and Absolutes Volatiles and waxes extracted from plant material with hydrocarbon solvents (usually benzene and hexane) through washing and removal of the volatile solvent with distillation. A waxy aromatic substance remaining is called a concrete. The concrete is washed with alcohol to remove the volatile materials and ethanol removed through vacuum distillation to leave an absolute.

The Natural Aromatic Product Family

Raw Herbs Fresh Consumption Dried Fermented Extracts Medicinal Powders Medicinal Beverages Essential Oils & Other Volatiles Flavour & Fragrance Personal Care & Cosmetics Standardised Extracts Phytopharmaceutical Products Fractions & Isolates Bioactive Compounds Prescription & OTC Drugs Figure 1: The Family Tree of Herb Derivatives Agricultural Application Traditional Herbal Medicines Aromatherapy Enzymes

The Biotechnology Pyramid Genomics Fermentation Micro-propagation Mutagenesis Thermodynamic Processes Green Biotechnology Reframed Disciplines White Biotechnology Red Biotechnology Micro-organisms

Characteristics of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry The flavour and fragrance ingredients trade has its own culture and business strategies, which can be summarised as follows: a) Flavour and fragrance ingredients are subject to derived demand, where demand originates from final flavoured and fragranced end product demand, b) Demand for flavour and fragrance ingredients is relatively inelastic in the short term, c) Flavour and fragrance ingredients are subject to fluctuating and cyclic demand, d) Purchasing and use of flavour and fragrance ingredients is based on artistic and technical complexity, and e) The world market is geographically concentrated. Unger (1987)

The Size of the Essential Oil Market

The market size for Natural Raw Material for the Flavor and Fragrance Market is USD650 M Essential Oil Production USD 650 million Fragrance & Flavour Production USD 20 Billion

Ratio of Natural to Synthetic Materials Used in the Flavour & Fragrance Industry Essential Oils & Natural Aromatic Materials 13% Synthetic Raw Materials 87%

Fragrance Flavors Flavor/Fragrance Split 2002

Indonesia USD 85 Million Cajuput Cananga Cassia Citronella Clove Clove Leaf Ginger Gurjun Balsam Nutmeg Palmarosa Patchouli Sandalwood Vetiver Vanilla Massoia Malaysia Tea Tree 200Ha Pepper Oil Nutmeg Oil Lime Oil Lemongrass Tangerine Ginger Tuberose Tumeric Vetivert Grapefruit Sweet Basil Clove Citronella Galabga Jasmine Kaffir Lime Champaka Plai Oil Coffee Bean Extract Rose Absolute Laos Benzoin Resin (100 Tonnes) Sassafras Oil Agarwood Cambodia Cajuput Oil (100 Tonnes) Sassafras Oil (1-200 Tonnes) Lemongrass Tea Tree Oil Vietnam Old Established Industry Cornmint Oil Basil (40 Tonnes) Citronella (2-500 Tonnes) Cajuput Oil (150 Tonnes) Sassafras Oil Star Anise Litsea Cubeba Cassia Patchouli Palmarosa Tea Tree Eucalyptus Citriodora Ginger Agarwood

Top Twenty Essential Oils Produced in the World Essential Oil Botanical Name Volume (Tonnes) Under Threat Cosmetics Under Threat Biocides Under threat Fragrance Orange Citrus sinensis 26000 X X Cornmint Mentha Arvensis 4300 Eucalyptus Euc. globulus 3728 X X X Citronella Cym winterianus 2830 X X X Peppermint Mentha piperita 2367 Lemon Citrus limon 2158 X X Euc. Citriodora Eucalyptus citriodora 2092 X X X Clove Leaf Syzygium aromaticum 1915 X X X Cedarwood (US) Juniperus virginiana 1640 Litsea cubeba Litsea cubeba 1005 X X Sassafras (Brazil) Ocotea pretiosa 1000 X X Lime Citrus aurantifolia 973 X X Spearmint Mentha spicata 851 Cedarwood (China) Chamaecyparis funebris 800 Lavandin Lavandula intermedia 768 X X Sassafras (China) Cinnamomum micranthum 750 X X Camphor Cinnamomum camphora 725 Coriander Coriandrum sativum 710 Grapefruit Citrus paradisi 694 X X Patchouli Pogostemom cablin 563 X X

Potential Models of Essential Oil Production Wild Collection Co-operative or Contract growing (community organisation) Small Scale Plantation (boutique/niche/agro tourism /vertical integration – manufacture consumer products) Large Scale Plantation (competitive cost advantage required to enter market) Production of Essential Oil as a Bi-product (focus on other industry, timber, etc)

Wild Collection & Distillation Tea Tree Australia

Small Holder (Patchouli Indonesia)

Cambodia (Lemongrass, Cajuput)

Large Scale Plantation Tea Tree

Business Positioning – The Value Chain USD 1.2 Billion Industry – poor man’s industry Through Product Development Through Seeing Production as a Means to Another Business Agro tourism FMCG Various Products Ind. Products

Wild Collection and Threatened Plant Species

Bargaining Power of Producers Bargaining Power of Producers

The Olfactory System & Odour Classification ?

The Human Olfactory System Odour molecules pass through the olfactory organ

Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes The Structure of a Fragrance Bergamot oil, Rosewood oil (linalool), Linalyl acetate, Neroli oil, Ciste Oil Rose Oil 5%, Jasmin absolute 4%, Ylang Ylang Oil, Aldehyde C11, C12, Methyl ionone 8%, hydroxycitronellal 10%, Cinamic Alcohol, Styrax. Phenol ethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde Vetiveryl acetate, Sandalwood, Isoeugenol, Vanillin 1.5%, Coumarin 15%, Nitromusks 10% “ First Impression” in Perfume. High Volatile Citrus, Fresh, Green notes….. “ Heart of fragrance”. Intermediate Volale Floral, Aldehydic notes….. Basic of fragrance”. (Bottom) Low Volatile Woody, Powdery, Musky ….. 15-25% 30-40% 45-55%

Classification of Odours Curtis & Williams (1994)

Woody Family Descriptions Animalic Family Descriptions

Balsamic Family Descriptions Herbaceous Family Descriptions Agrestic Family Descriptions

Green Family Descriptions Minty Family Descriptions Coniferous Family Description

Marine Family Descriptions Aldehydic Family Descriptions Medicated Family Descriptions

Fruity Family Descriptions Sub-Class (Citrus)

Spicy Family Description Miscellaneous Notes

Odour Characteristics Additional Characteristics

Fragrance Description Workshop

GC-MS Performance Test A Fragrance Development Lab A trained human more accurate than a GC-MS

A Green Factory UV Input Enzymes

Terpenes Unsaturated hydrocarbons Found mostly in plants Usually monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes used in flavours and fragrances Generally weak odours not fully represented from the essential oils they come from Sometimes poorly soluble in weak ethanolic solutions Primarily used as extenders Can oxidate or polymerise easily changing odour and lessening volatility Cis -3,7-Dimethylocta-2,6-1-ol Colourless to pale liquid Stable Application: Magnolia, Neroli, Jasmin, Lilac and other floral perfumes Origin: Rose, Neroli, Petitgrain, Lavender, Lemongrass, Palmarosa and citrus oils

Geraniol Trans-3,7-Dimethylocta-2,6-dien-ol Colourless liquid Stable Applications: Floral and most other perfumes Origin: Rose, Citronella, Geranium and Palmarosa Linalool 3,7-Dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol Colourless Liquid Stable Applications: Almost universal application in fragrances, especially floral Origin: Rose, rosewood, Lavender, minor constituent of others

Biosynthesis and isomerization-cyclization of geranyl pyrophosphate

The biosynthesis and isomerisation process is undertaken by enzyme from the oil glands of plants in nonoterpene producing species

Alcohols Hydroxy compunds consisting of hydrocarbon chains Primary, secondary and tertiary alcohols (i.e., no. carbon atoms), also aliphatic alcohols Terpenoid alcohols very important chemicals found in many plants Polyhydric alcohols (2 or more hydroxy groups) odourless, but solvents Acyclic alcohols faint odours (close to phenols) Phenylethyl Alcohol 2-Phenylethanol Colourless liquid Stable Sweet rosy like odour Applications: widely used in synthetic form From floral to aldehydic, chypre and fougere Fragrances Origins: Rose, Neroli, Geranium and Ylang Ylang

Octenol OH Oct-1-en-3-ol Colourless liquid Stable Strong, fatty, orange like, balsamic Applications: In the reconstruction of lavender and lavindin oils Origin: in some mushrooms and savory oil Citronellol 3,7-Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol Colourless liquid Stable Applications: used extensively in florals Origin: Rose, citronella oils

Islam & Alcohol Ethanol (alcohol) is a ‘spirit’ odour substance It is a different chemical composition to alcohols used in flavour & fragrance Dodecan-1-ol Benzyl Alcohol Spirit alcohol forbidden in Islam for consumption (An-Nahl 16:67), but allowed in medicine.Many Islamic scholars allow it for use on the skin.

Amines Compound with one or more hydrogen atoms of ammonia, replaced with hydrogen radical 3 types, primary, secondary and tertiary Most foul smelling “animalic” Methyl Anthranilate (Methyl 2-aminobenzoate) Colourless liquid Discolouration From many flowers such as orange and ylang ylang

The Esters Derived from alcohols in reverseable reactions Fruity notes Not very pH stable Colourless liquid Stable Applications: Versitile in many fragrances, especially jasmin and gardenia Origin: Jasmin, Tuberose, neroli, Ylang Ylang Benzyl Acetate

The Aldehydes Fatty aldehydes have pungent odours Aliphatices used in perfumery and flavours mainly from synthetic sources Usually used in very diluted forms Aldehydes are very reactive (oxidisation, polymerisation and acetal formations) Benzaldehyde Colourless liquid Can oxidize to benzoic acid Applications: In traceable amounts in sweet florals Origin: Bitter almond oil, cassia

Lactones Naturally ocuring in many fruits Most often hydroxy group of alcohols which reacte with carboxylic acids Contain ester functional group in the cyclic part of the molecule Important fruit flavours & fragrances Y-butyrolactone & a-caprolactone

Carboxylic Acids Organic acids with a carbonyl and hydroxy group Usually derived from aliphatic alcohols or aliphatic aldehydes through oxidisation Odours usually resemble precursers Colourless crystaline solid Slightly pungent odour Benzoic Acid

Phenols Compounds with 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, similar to benzyl alcohols Tend to be toxic and caustic Prone to oxidisation Basically clean type odours Eugenol 4-allyl-2-methoxyphenol Stable Colourless liquid Applications: Carnation, spicy fragrances, rose and oriental perfumes Origin: Clove, cinnamom leaf oil, patchouli, Ylang Ylang

Extraction theory and practice

Principals: Latent Heat Molecule speed and energy dependent upon temperature Change from liquid to gas state requires energy Due to motion of molecules, all compounds with determinable boiling points will emit vapours from their surafaces, if area closed this will insert pressure upon the molecule, termed vapour pressure These vapours will saturate the molecule and take up additional molecules This saturated vapour will carry other molecules Amount of heat required to vapourise a unit mass of liquid, without raising the temperature of the vapour above that of the liquid is called LATENT HEAT of vapourisation Heat and relative pressures are important in distillation

The Gas Laws Energy can neither be created nor destroyed in any system of constant mass and that heat is energy First Law of Themodynamics Mechanical Equivalent of heat Energy exerts a force to move a mass against the forces of friction i.e., 540 kilocalies of latent heat required to vapourise 1 kilogram of water in one second requires 2268 watts of power Second Law of Thermodynamics Heat cannot be transferred from cooler to hotter body

The Gas Laws Fourier’s Law of Heat Conduction Heat will be conducted from one plane surface to another at a rate proportional to the area of contact and at the magnitude of differential temperatures Boyle’s Law At constant temperatures, the volume of a given mass of gas is inversely Proportional to the pressure on the gas Charles’ Law Under constant pressure, the volume of a given mass of gas is proportional To its absolute temperature

The Gas Laws Avogadro’s Law Equal volumes of ideal gases under equal conditions of temperature and pressure contain equal numbers of molecules All the above laws also apply to mixed vapours

Mixed Vapours If two immiscible liquids are in equilibrium with a common vapur space, each will contribute equally to any unit volume of that space. Thus, a mixture of two mutually insoluble liquids will boil when the temperature attains the point where the sum of the two characteristic vapour pressures becomes equal to the surrounding pressure. This is how distillation vapourises relatively high boiling materials under normal atmospheric pressure, without approaching the corresponding boiling temperatures of the essential oil;s constituents.

Mixed Vapours Molecules of water vapour a Molecules of water vapour b Liquid water a Liquid oil b Liquid water a Liquid oil b Molecules of water and gas vapour The composition of mixed vapours from immiscible liquids Eg. Water 99.6c Eg linalyl acetate 226c Together at 99.6c

The Principal of Essential oil Hydro Distillation The principal of all hydro distillation for the recovery of essential oils consists In bringing together two mutually insoluble liquids, water and oil, at a temperature close To the boiling point of the more volatile of the two, the water, so that the addition Of a small extra vapour pressure from the oil, will cause the mixture’s total pressure To equalise to the surrounding pressure. Dalton’s Law

Releasing Oil from Plant Materials In steam distillation water condenses of plant surfaces and latent heat surrounds the material and raises volatile materials to boiling point

Releasing Oil from Plant Materials Herb surface Water liquid mixed liquids oil liquids water liquids Vapour phase 98c saturated mixed vapour General vapour space 99c Region of oil vapour elution Method of Oil Release through Putative Impression from Leaves

The Time-Steam-Yield Rate Relationship for a Distillation

. The Distinct Stages of Distillation and During the Second Phase for Sweet Basil Oil

Slightly Soluble (<500ppm) Moderately Soluble (501-1999ppm) Very Soluble (>2000ppm) Aldehyde C11 Aldehyde C12 (lauric) Aldehyde C12 MNA Amyl cinnamic aldehyde Amyl salicylate Benzyl salicylate Cedrol Citronellol Citronellyl butyrate Citronellyl formate Eudesmol Geranyl formate Limonene Linalyl acetate a -Pinene Calamene 1,8-Cineole Nerol Neryl acetate Rose oxide Benzlaldehyde Benzyl acetate Cinnamic alcohol Citronellyl acetate a- copanene Eugenol Geranial Geraniol Limonene Linalool Mentone Myrcene (E)-β- ocimene Phenylethylacetate Phenylethylalcohol Sabinene Terpinen-4-ol a- Terpineol Terpinolene

Practice of Distillation Different methods of distillation will be used according to: a) Structure of leaves and other plant materials b) “potential modification” of plant’s chemical constituents to heat c) Some resinous materials not volatile and wont react to distillation

Due to material distillation times with differ for various essential oils Lavender Mint

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Schematic View of a Hydro-diffusion Distillation System

Aroma Chemicals Derived from Terpenes

Aldehyde C16 (strawberry) Ethyl methyl phenyl glycidate (the methyl ester of methyl phenyl glycidic acid) Odourless liquid Used at low dosage levels for fruity notes in jasmines, lilac, rose and orange flower and as a sweetening agent Not reported in nature

Anisaldehyde 4-Methyoxybenzaldehyde Colourless liquid Used in lilac, gardenia, honeysuckle and other florals and to produce powdery notes A minor constituent of vanilla

Benzaldehyde Colourless Liquid Used in traces for floral fragrances and in higher quantities for industrial fragrances Found in bitter almond, peach, apricot, ylang ylang, cinnamon bark, cassia.

Benzyl Salicylate Colourless liquid Used as a solvent for crystaline, musk smelling aroma chemicals, as a blender and fixative for florals Naturally occurs in ylang ylang

Cedrol Colourless crystals Powerful odour used as a fixative in soap perfumes and household products Naturally occurs in cedarwood and cypress oils

Cinnamyl Alcohol 3-Phenylprop-2-1-ol White crystalline mass or pale yellow liquid Modifier and fixative in rose, hyacinth, lilac, muguet and other florals, particularly for soaps Found in cinnamon leaf oil

Coumarin 2-Hydroxycinnamic acid lactone Colourless crystals Used in chypre and fougere fragrances, lavenders and other herbal florals, usally as a fixative Found in Tonka bean absolutes, lavender oils

Dihydromyrcenol 2,6-Dimethyloct-7-en-2-ol Slightly coloured yellow liquid Major ingredient in base of citrus fragrances, as a refresher in lilac, lily of the valley and distinction in rose fragrances. Not reported in nature

Exaltolide (Firmenich) Colourless crystaline powder or clear liquid Used at very low dosages as a fixative and intensifier of other fragrance notes in fine fragrances Occurs in traces in angelica root oil cyclopentadecanolide 15-Hydroxypentadecanoic acid ketone

Hedione (Firmenich) Methyl dihydrojasmonate Colourless liquid Used extensively in floral fragrances to create radiance and diffusive power. Not reproted in nature

Cis -3-Hexenol Cis -Hex-3-en-1-ol (Leaf alcohol) Colourless to slightly green liquid In trace amounts for natral green foliage notes in florals Occurs widely in green leaves and many essential oils

Indole Colourless crystals Very lightly in solution as a floral enhancer in jasmines and heavy florals, together with some aldehydic fragrances Occurs in orange flower, jasmine

Alpha-Ionone 4-(2,6,6-Trimethylcyclohex-2-enyl)-but-3-en-2-one Pale yellow liquid In violet compositions, also rose, as a floraliser. Used to contribute to non-florals to enhance the powdery notes in heliotropes, and vanilla In boronia and cassie absolutes and other essential oils

Liliial (Givaudan-Roure) p-tert -Butyl alpha-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde Colourless to pale yellow liquid Very widely used in florals as a floral fortifier Not reported in nature

Methyl Salicylate Methyl 2-hydroxybenzoate Colourless liquid In synthetic floral compositions, especially Ylang ylang and tuberose. Heavy florals. In trace amounts in light florals. In wintergreen oil, ylang ylang.

Phenyl ethyl alcohol 2-Phenylethylethanol Colourless liquid Widely used in florals, especially rose and with aldehydes. In rose oil, neroli, geranium and ylang ylang

Vertenex (IFF) P-tert-Butyl cyclohexyl acetate Colourless liquid Modifier, blender and sweetening agent for most perfumes. Not reported in nature

Vetiveryl acetate A mixture of bicyclo- and tricyclo- vetiveryl acetates Colourless liquid Effective in chypre, aldehydic and oriental fragrances for lifting and freshening. Also as a fixative. Not reported in nature

The Essential Oil Development Process

Research Should be Focused Here

Mostly Imitation Here The Areas of Growth are Here

Other Potential Economic Products Herbal Tea, Food Flavouring, Spices Antibacterial, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant Dietary Supplement, Energy Drinks, Toiletries (soap, shampoo) , Aromatherapy and Fragrances Lemon Myrtle Dried leaf Spice extract Essential Oils Pharmaceutical Functional Food Nutraceutical Body Care Semi - Finished Finished Product Potential Product Development

The Essential Oil Strategic Matrix An Existing Crop – Product Already Traded This can be seen as an improvement on existing production or setting up new production in an area already producing the crop. Improving cultivation and harvesting methods to improve productivity Finding new customers and channels to increase sales An Existing Crop – Leading to a New Product This may involve moving along the value chain to a new market based on an essential oil already produced or producing an essential oil for some type of value added product. Improving cultivation and harvesting methods to improve productivity Finding out what products potential customers want In a new product Producing a new product according to identified consumer needs Organising the supply chain for the new product to get to market Making the product available to more consumers who are likely to want it A New Crop to a New Geographic Area This involves producing an essential oil already in trade in a new geographical area. Establishing the most efficient way to cultivate, harvest and process the essential oil Matching the newly produced essential oil with customer expectations and requirements Organising the supply chain so the essential oil reaches the market Making the essential oil available to new customers who are likely to require it A New Crop and New Product This involves producing a product higher up the value chain, differentiating it and producing the essential oil. Making informed decisions about new crop choices Establishing the most efficient way to cultivate, harvest and process the essential oil Finding out from potential customers what they want in the new oil Making sure the oil meets the customers needs as closely as possible Organising the supply chain so the essential oil reaches the market

Market Analysis Knowledge of Industry Knowledge of Potential Applications Knowledge of Customers Understanding of Derived Demand Understanding of Trends Understanding of Other Developments & Improving Technology and Knowledge

Threat of New Entrants Threat of competition from new technology (in past from petrochemicals) Bargaining Power Of suppliers Restrictions on The supply of beta-pinene The required feedstock Other producers of geraniol Industry competitiveness Intensity of rivalry Threat of substitutes Possible reformulation with other rose materials eg. Phenyl ethyl alcohol Bargaining power of buyers Concentration of usage into few major compounders strengthen buyer power Adapted from Porter, M. E, Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York, Free Press, 1985 Porter’s Five Force Analysis for Gernaiol

Scale and Vision/Mission of the farm/plantation Vision and mission and objectives

Adapted from Manitoba Agriculture

Issue Comments Focus Paradigm Requires focus on concept of product application where current focus is on cultivation This requires research This requires an entrepreneurial approach Concepts not readily understood by conventional farmers Basic Research Needs access to Worldwide data Requires availability of suitable germplasms Requires basic R&D to determine where crop technically suitable Requires R&D to determine whether potential crop is economically feasible Very difficult to get R&D assistance Shortage of skills and expertise in many areas Crop Management and Processing Propagation technologies How to plant, cultivate and manage the crop How to harvest, extract, store and handle How to process How to package Transportation and storage Marketing Infrastructure Require coordination of production with demand (important with new essential oil production) Require correct channels of distribution (critical) Requires a marketing strategy (change of paradigm from producing orientation) Economics and Logistics Requires enough volume to economically transport and distribute (especially in low to medium value oils) Requires a solution to inconsistencies of quality and production Organisation Need committed people with strong leadership and trust Government Need to translate support into action Need funding allocations for research & development Need infrastructure Regulation Need to fund infrastructure to meet EPA & HACCP, etc Need to identify and fulfil the requirements of various regulatory bodies Finance Very difficult to obtain funding for these projects Customers & Consumers Need to identify who are the customers in which part of the value chain Need to work closely with selected customers

To Development Process First Stage: Theoretical & Biological Screening Biological Screening Screening For Development Potential To Market Development Linked to all stages Regulatory Screening REACH, BPD, SCP, GRAS, etc

Bio-Prospecting Desktop Studies

Comparison Factors between Potential Cultivation Site and Potential Crop Actual Conditions Range of Possible Growing Conditions for Potential Crop General climate Range of micro-climates Topography that influences micro-climates Rainfall range (access to irrigation) Temperature ranges Daylight hours Soil types Soil characteristics (pH, humus profile, soil layers, etc) Preferred climate(s) Preferred micro-climates Preferred topography Preferred rainfall levels Preferred temperature ranges Preferred daylight hours Preferred soil types Preferred soil characteristics Latitudes 44° North & South

Comparison Factors between Potential Cultivation Site and Potential Crop Actual Conditions Range of Possible Growing Conditions for Potential Crop General climate Range of micro-climates Topography that influences micro-climates Rainfall range (access to irrigation) Temperature ranges Daylight hours Soil types Soil characteristics (pH, humus profile, soil layers, etc) Preferred climate(s) Preferred micro-climates Preferred topography Preferred rainfall levels Preferred temperature ranges Preferred daylight hours Preferred soil types Preferred soil characteristics

Worksheet for Rough Calculation of Financial Viability at Initial Screening Stage 1. Costs of Crop Domestication Can they potential crop be domesticated into field production easily? If not, will biomass be wild-collected? What method would be most suitable for propagation, from seed, cuttings, tissue culture, other? Does nursery propagation of the potential crop require any other special care? What staffing will be required? What would be the approximate costs of achieving the above?

2. Field Preparation and Infrastructure What overall infrastructure will be needed?, nursery, road access, fencing, outbuildings, farming equipment, etc. What land preparation is needed, land levelling and contouring, drainage, etc. Does the crop require large amounts of water to thrive during growth? Is there adequate water available through rainfall to satisfy this? Will irrigation be required? If so, what method? Will dams and catchment areas have to be constructed to ensure a plentiful water supply? What will be the approximate costs of this? Are there any other potential costs?

3. Planting and Maintenance Approximately how long will the crop take from field planting to harvest maturity? How will the potential crop be planted?, manually/automated? What will be the costs involved? What would the approximate planting density be? Will nutrients have to be applied? If so, how regularly?, How much? What method will be used to apply them? What will be the approximate costs of this? How often are re-plantings required? After each harvest, after a number of seasons, after how many years, what are the costs involved to prepare for each re-planting?

4. Harvesting, Extraction and Post Extraction Is harvest timing crucial?, ie, a time of day, a very short window in a particular month, etc What are the costs involved in achieving this harvest window? What method of harvest will be utilised? Manual, semi-mechanised, fully mechanised What would be the approximate costs of building the harvest equipment? What method of extraction will be required? Hydro-distillation, steam distillation, destructive distillation, vacuum distillation, solvent extraction, other What power sources will be utilised? What are their costs? How will spent biomass be dealt with? Does it have any economic value or can it be used back in the farming process? Is the technology understood for the above processes? If not, what will be the costs of acquiring it? What will be the fabrication costs to build the above? What regulations (ie., EPA) are relevant to the processes? And how much will development and compliance cost? Will specialist staff be required? What would the approximate cost of energy to oil yield?

5. Estimated (guessed) Project Size and Yields How many hectares do you anticipate to cultivate? How many years will it take to achieve this? What (based on literature and other knowledge) would be the approximate biomass per hectare achievable? (min. and max. est.) Does the biomass have to be wilted, stored or otherwise processed before extraction? What would be the yield as a percentage of biomass after extraction?

6. Estimated Financial Viability 1. Research costs = 2. Costs of crop domestication = 3. Field preparation and infrastructure costs = 4. Propagation, planting and maintenance costs = 5. Harvesting, extraction & post extraction costs = Total Capital Costs (1+3) = Total operational costs (2+4+5) = Total amount of oil yielded = Total oil value = Value – total operational costs = Return/total capital costs x 100 = Return on investment

Biological Screening Bio-prospecting Literature Review Consider Reintroduction of a Crop Consider Introduction of New Crop Identify Chemical Constituents of Essential Oil

Screening For Development Potential Match Chemical Constituents of Essential Oil to Possible Market Uses Evaluate Application Potential of Essential Oil Evaluate Yields, Cost of production Evaluate Time and Cost of Development Value Determination (Use Criteria)

Screening Require Knowledge of Essential Oil Applications Require knowledge of International Market Require Knowledge of International Regulations Need to Collaborate with Industry Parties

Screening Protocols Anti inflammatory Anti microbial Skin whitening UV absorbing Anti age actives Flavour & fragrance application Aromatherapy

Classes, Characteristics and Uses of Essential Oils Adapted from Naf (1989) and Petrzilka (1991) in Hunter (1995)

A new material must have the following characteristics to have commercial potential The novelty of the new essential oil The perceived potential uses and applications of the new essential oil The closeness of any substitutes to the new essential oil The stability of the new essential oil The cost/price performance ratio of the new essential oil The toxicity aspects of the new essential oil The general consistency of supply and quality The prevailing market/product trends, and The current level of technology Kastner (1991) modified by Hunter (1995)

Evaluating the Characteristic Strengths and Weaknesses of Essential Oils The novelty of a new essential oil The major factor determining the novelty is the perceived uniqueness of the essential oil’s organoleptic profile. Thus, the degree of novelty is limited by the closeness of potential substitutes. The concept of novelty extends to essential oils that are more cost effective sources of natural aroma chemicals. New natural sources of aroma chemicals would also fit into this criteria of novelty.

The potential uses and applications of a new essential oil Without perfumers and flavourists perceiving applications potential, a new essential oil will remain in the realm of curiosity. Time, effort and imagination on the part of perfumers and flavourists is required to discover useful applications for new essential oils. It is under this criteria that most new essential oils will struggle to find acceptance as a new aromatic material.

The closeness of any substitutes It is difficult to find essential oils that cannot be duplicated by reconstitutions. New essential oils with close substitutes are of little value to the flavour and fragrance industry, unless they can offer a significant cost or stability advantage. The only exception is when a new essential oil is a source of a natural aroma material.

The Toxicity The cost of proving a new material is safe to use in flavours and fragrances is a major obstacle to the development of new aromatic materials. The industry has an impeccable reputation for self regulation and added EU regulations increases the cost of preparing dossiers on new materials even more. In markets outside the EU, most international flavour and fragrance houses would not consider using a new essential oil unless it meets IFRA safety and toxicity recommendations and is included on the GRAS list.

The general consistency of quality and supply Natural material will vary in quality according to geographic origin, type of soil, level of nutrients in the soil, climate and weather, rainfall, time of harvest, season, method of extraction, altitude and the incidence of pests and diseases. Likewise there are risks with continual supply of natural materials because of adverse weather conditions, changes in climate, floods and other natural disasters, wars, political upheavels and the inexperience of new producers. Launching new consumer products require large investments on the part of the end product manufacturer. Flavour and fragrance houses do not want to be placed in a position of being unable to supply a manufacturer with a flavour or fragrance compound because of the unavailability of a raw material.

The prevailing market/product trends Market and product trends slowly evolve. Changes in market trends are the result of complex forces, including technology, which makes new trends possible, advertising, and cultural influences upon consumer tastes and preferences. A particular essential oil may become more or less important to the flavour and fragrance industry, depending upon these trends.

The current level of technology New technology advances influence the value of existing aromatic materials to the flavour and fragrance industry. The development of new essential oil reconstitutions are aimed at eliminating some of the potential toxicity and solubility problems of existing essential oils. Reconstitutions are generally more stable and cheaper than their more expensive natural counterparts. As better and more cost effective reconstitutions are developed in the future, the use of some essential oils will decline. Since the advent of more sophisticated analytical techniques, like GC-MS, headspace analysis, electronic noses, aroma chemical and specialty product manufacturers have been better able to isolate powerful aromatic molecules from essential oils and synthesise these compounds. The discovery of new aroma chemicals in essential oils due to increased equipment sensitivity is more likely to lead to synthesis rather than cultivation.

Regulatory Screening United States - GRAS ( Generally Regarded as Safe) RIFM – Collections of Monographs Food and Drug Administration Europe – REACH, BPD, SCP More Later on this subject

Second Stage: Development Process Environmental Analysis Evaluation of Capabilities Market Analysis Technical Development Opportunities & Threats Finance, Knowledge, Land Tenure, etc Market, Customers, Options Project Development in the Field Commercialisation Strategies Market Development

Evaluation of Resources & Capabilities Resources - Funding - Time - Facilities & Infrastructure - Equipment - Literature Capabilities - Available Skills (Research Team) - Experience

Essential Oil Technical Development Project Preparation and Early Work - Stakeholders - Team - Objectives - Funding - Plan

Essential Oil Technical Development Land Selection - Suitable (Soil, Rainfall, drainage, access) - Climate - Location - Tenure - Future Expansion

Lachowicz, K., J., Jones, G., P., Briggs, D., R., Bienvenu, F., E., Palmer, M., V., Ting, S., T., and Hunter, M., Characteristics of Essential Oil from Basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) Grown in Australia, Journal of Agriculture and Food Technology , Vol. 44, No. 3., 1996, pp. 877-881. Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils Sample Linalool Methylchavical Olfactory Profile India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity. French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes. Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note. Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note. Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

Topographic Variations Mentha piperata Mint

Texture Layer Depth Organic Material Moisture Content pH Drainage & Evaporation, etc

Essential Oil Technical Development Development of Propagation Material - Easy to Domesticate? - Seed Collection (genetic variance) - Other Propagation Methods

Require Uniformity In Product

Genetic material Chemotype Variances for Melaleuca cajuputi Geographic Variances within a single chemotype

Constituent Variations Slee, M., U., 1995

Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils Hunter et al, 1996 Sample Linalool Methylchavical Olfactory Profile India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity. French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes. Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note. Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note. Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

Land Preparation Leveling and contouring Drainage

Objective of Trials to Develop Agronomy Plan Peppermint Management

Trials Response of Major Constituents to Nitrogen Ovens Valley, Victoria, Australia, 1991/92

Response of Yield to Nitrogen Level Persicaria odoratum Ovens Valley, Victoria, Austalia (91,92)

Biomass Production – Lemon Myrtle

Essential Oil Technical Development Planting Harvesting Techniques Extraction Techniques

Planting & Maintenance Post harvest practices Irrigation Methods Planting & Harvesting Methods

Overhead Sprinklers Drip Irrigation Capillary Sand Beds Installation cost Moderate Moderate/High High Maintenance Low High High Durability Excellent Low Moderate Labour Low Moderate Low Water Distribution Fair Good Good Water Use Efficiency Poor, wasteful Good Good Pump Requirement Large, high pressure Small, low pressure Small, low pressure Water Volume Requirement Large Small Small Wind Influence Serious None None

Plant Populations Regular plant spacings maximise biomass Climate, weather, soil fertility and Plant physiology influence Plant spacings Selected plant spacings influence Biomass, leaf size, fruit & rhizome Size, stem growth.

Randomised Complete Block Design for a Field Experiment.

A Factorial Arrangement of Treatments (Moisture (A) and Nitrogen (B) ) in a Randomised Complete Block Design Fertilizer Application Pesticide Application Herbicide Application Irrigation Spacings & plant populations

Selected method often restricted by type of crop Most herbaceous crops can be mowed Many flowers must be hand picked Innovative systems can be designed and developed

Harvest Timing Critical for Some Crops ( Mentha piperata )

Harvesting Maturity Desired Standard Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

Selection of Extraction System Scale up Pilot Plant Large Systems

Essential Oil Technical Development Are Developed Techniques able to Create a Viable and Economic Industry?

Marketing Strategies Develop in Conjunction with International Company - They will have their own strategy Raw Material Finished Product Local Market International Market

Problems in developing new essential oils (Specific problems to essential oils) Lack of industry knowledge Regulatory environment Lack of novelty Technical expertise Planting wrong chemotype Cost timeframe (first returns) Politics

SCCP Responsibility SCCP (The Scientific Committee on Consumer Products – previously called the SCCNFP: Scientific Committee on Cosmetic & Non Food Products) is an expert committee set up under the EC Health and Consumer Protection DG. SCCP reports to the EC H&CP Scientific Steering Committee on matters relevant to the EC countries in their defined area. The committee comprises a diverse range of experts in toxicology from industry, the medical fields and tertiary institutions. SCCP/SCCNFP have provided scientific opinions on a wide range of ingredients used in personal care products including actives & excipients for oral care, haircare and skincare products.

Cosmetic Products in EU are regulated by Directive 76/768/EEC and Amendments Section 7(a) of 76/768/EEC states:- “ Assessment of the safety for human health of the finished product. To that end that manufacturer shall take into consideration the general toxicological profile of the ingredient, its chemical structure and its level of exposure”.

Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP Criteria Protocol Comments 2. General Nomenclature Purity Physical properties MP BP Density Rel. Vap. Dens VP Log PoW Solubility Function

Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP Criteria Protocol Comments 3.3.1 Acute Toxicity Acute Oral Acute Dermal Acute Inhalation OECD 425 OECD 402 OECD 403 US$3000 US$5000 US$10,000 3.3.2 Irritation/Corrosivity Skin Irritation Mucous Membrane Skin Sensitisation Irritation: OECD 404 or OECD 431 (Episkin) Draize OECD 405 Murine Lymph assay OECD 429 or Guinea Pig OECD 406 US$5000 US$5000 US$10,000 US$12,000 3.3.4 Dermal/Percutaneous Absorption OECD 428 Not possible to do in vivo on essential oil. US$50,000 3.3.5 Repeat Dose Toxicity Repeat Dose oral/dermal/inhalation (28 day) Subchronic 90 day oral/dermal/inhalation Chronic (>12 months) OECD 410 OECD 411 OECD 452 US$50,000 US$150,000 US$550,000

Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP Criteria Protocol Comments 3.3.6 Mutagenicity/ Genotoxicity Ames US$4000 Cannot be effectively done on antimicrobial compounds 3.3.7 Carcinogenicity OECD 453 US$1,200,000 – 3 years duration 3.3.8 Reproductive Toxicity Two Generation Reproduction Toxicity - Teratogenicity OECD 416 OECD 414 US$450,000 US$100,000 3.3.9 Toxicokinetics Complex for essential oil 3.3.10 Photo induced Toxicity - Phototoxicity 3T3 NRU US$3000 3.3.11 Human Data Case studies of poisonings, allergic reactions etc

Total Cost for SCCP Dossier ~ US$2,500,000

BPD History Proposed by EC in 1993. Adapted by EC and European Parliament on 16.2.1998. Published 24.4.1998. Enacted 14.5.1998. Implemented:- EU States 14.5.2000. New Member states : date of accession Transition period 10 years (to 14.5.2010).

BPD Objectives High level of protection of human health and environment. Harmonisation of requirements for authorisation of biocides.

What Are Biocidal Products? Active substances and preparations containing one or more active substances. Put up in a form in which they are supplied to the user . . . Intended to destroy, deter, render harmless, prevent the action of or exert a controlling influence on any harmful organism . . . By chemical or biological means

Biocidal Product Types MAIN GROUP 1: DISINFECTANTS & GENERAL BIOCIAL PRODUCTS Product-type 1: Human hygiene biocidal products Product-type 2: Private Area and public health are disinfectants and other biocidal products Product-type 3: Veterinary hygiene biocidal products Product-type 4: Food and feed area disinfectants Product-type 5: Drinking water disinfectants

MAIN GROUP 2: PRESERVATIVES Product-type 6: In-can preservatives Product-type 7: Film preservatives Product-type 8: Wood preservatives Product-type 9: Fibre, leather, rubber and polymerised materials preservatives Product-type 10: Masonry preservatives Product-type 11: Preservatives for liquid-cooling and processing systems Product-type 12: Slimicides Product-type 13: Metalworking-fluid preservatives

MAIN GROUP 3: PEST CONTROL Product-type 14: Rodenticides Product-type 15: Avicides Product-type 16: Molluscicides Product-type 17: Piscicides Product-type 18: Insecticides, acaricides and products to control other arthropods Product-type 19: Repellents and attractants

MAIN GROUP 4: OTHER BIOCIDAL PRODUCTS Product-type 20: Preservatives for food or feedstocks Product-type 21: Antifouling products Product-type 22: Embalming and taxidermist fluids Product-type 23: Control of other vertebrates

What Is Not A Biocide? Plant protection product. Medicine. Veterinary medicines Medical devices Cosmetic Food additive

What Are Active Substances? A substance or micro organism including a virus or a fungus . . . Having general or specific action on or against harmful organism.

What Are Harmful Organisms? Any organism which has:- An unwanted presence or a determined effect. For humans, their attributes or the products they use or produce or for animals or for their environment.

Approval Process Active substance must be listed in “Annex 1”. The product is:- Sufficiently effective No unacceptable effects on target organisms No unacceptable effects on human or animal health No unacceptable effects on the environment

Acceptance Arrangements Existing active substances:- Contained in biocidal products on the market in EU area before May 14, 2000 Subject to 10 year Review Program May stay on market until EU decision is made New active substances:- May not be used in EU before full review New EU member states:- Treated as new existing substances

BPD Data Requirements All data requirements we laid out in annexes II, III and IV of the Directive 98/8/EC Annex part A is for active substances Annex part B is for biocidal products containing them

NEW SUBSTANCES EXISTING SUBSTANCES BIOCIDES INFORMATION GATHERING EFFECTS ASSESSMENT Hazard identification Dose (concentration) – response (effect) Assessment EXPOSURE ASSESSMENT Human exposure assessment (Workers, consumers, via the environment) Environmental exposure assessment (water, soil, air) RISK CHARACTERISATION HUMAN HEALTH Evaluation of effects data and comparison with exposure data ENVIRONMENT Evaluation of effects data and comparison with exposure data OUTCOME OF RISK ASSESSMENT One or more of the following conclusions/results i) No immediate concern No need to consider again before next tonnage trigger ii) Concern Define further information needs and requests at next tonnage trigger iii) Concern Define further information needs and seek immediately iv) Concern immediately make recommendations for risk deduction i) Need for further information and/or testing ii) At present no need for further information and/or testing and no need for risk reduction measures iii) Need for limiting the risks Recommen- dation of an inclusion of the active substance in Annex I, IA or IB Recommen- dation of a non- inclusion of the active substance in Annex I, IA or IB

Member states designated Rapporteurs – these are responsible for data review in specific categories Charges:- Rapporteurs € Belgium 50,000 Denmark 175,000 Germany 75 – 125,000 Netherlands to 350,000 Austria 200 – 220,000 Individual states may impose additional levies for products registered (e.g. UK ~ US$1000 p.a.)

Rapporteur Review Data Review ~ 15 months Other MS have 3 months for comment Data is owned by the entity compiling the dossier

BPD Data Requests General:- Substance identification (CAS, IUPAC, formula etc) Substance information – colour, purity, physical properties Spectra Synonyms and trade names Impurities Additives Quantity used in EU Labelling Hazard classification and labelling Usage pattern – including application, types of use, volume per application, recovery, industry types Manufacturing method Existing exposure restriction and limits Hazards Degradation products

Physical & Chemical Properties MP BP VP Viscosity Density Granulometry Partition coefficient Solubility in different media Surface Tension Flash point, flammability, explosivity Oxidising properties Dissociation constant

Environmental Fate Photodegradation Stability in water and soil Monitoring data Field studies Transport between environmental compartments Actual use degradation model Biodegradation, BOD/COD Bioaccumulation

Ecotoxicity Acute toxicity to:- Fish Aquatic invertebrates Aquatic plants (e.g. algae) Micro-organisms Chronic toxicity to:- Fish Aquatic invertebrates Toxicity to:- Sediment dwelling organisms Terrestrial plants Soil dwelling organisms Other non mammalian terrestrial species Biotransformation and Kinetics

Toxicity Acute oral Acute inhalation Acute dermal Skin irritation Eye irritation Sensitisation Repeat dose toxicity Genetic toxicity in vitro Genetic toxicity in vivo Carcinogenicity Toxicity to fertility Developmental toxicity/teratogenicity Exposure experience

Effect Against Target Organism Function Effects on organisms to be controlled Organisms to be protected User Resistance End point summary Risk Assessment

Total Cost for BPD Dossier Compliance ~ US$4 million +

REACH Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals

Objectives at REACH Protection of human health and the environment Maintenance and enhancement of the competitiveness of the EU chemical industry Prevention of fragmentation of the internal market Increased transparency Integration with international efforts Promotion of non-animal testing Conformity with EU international obligations under the WTO

Objectives at REACH EU:- “ Regulation proposed by the commission on 29 October 2003 achieves all the objectives identified in the White Paper and this represents a model of sustainable development by pursuing objectives of the three pillars:- Economic (industrial [ ]) Social (health protection and jobs) Environment

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration Greater than 1MT p.a. Melting/freezing point Boiling point Relative density Vapour pressure Surface tension Water solubility (or water extractivity for polymers) n-Octanol-water partition coefficient Flash point or flammability Explosivity Auto-flammability Oxidising properties Granulometry Skin irritation or corrosivity evaluation or in vitro tests Eye irritation evaluation or in vitro test Skin sensitisation evaluation or local lymph node assay Ames test In vitro chromosome aberration test Acute Daphnia toxicity Algal growth test Ready biodegradation Deadline for Registration 10 years from REACH enacting legislation

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration B) Greater than 10MT p.a. Light-stability for polymers Long-term extractivity for polymers Skin irritation (unless classified from Annex V data) Eye irritation (unless classified from Annex V data) In vitro gene mutation assay Acute oral toxicity Acute inhalation or dermal toxicity 28-day (or 90-day) repeat-dose study in the rat (normally oral exposure) Developmental toxicity screening study (OECD 421) Developmental toxicity study Toxicokinetics assessment (a prediction based on the available data) Acute fish toxicity Activated sludge respiration inhibition test Hydrolysis test Adsorption/desorption screening test Plus A) requirements Deadline for Registration 6 years from REACH enacting legislation

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration C) Greater than 100MT p.a. Stability in organic solvents and identification of degradants Dissociation constant Viscosity Reactivity to container material In vitro Mutagenicity studies 28-day or 90-day repeat-dose study in the rat (if not part of the Annex VI data) Developmental toxicity studies in two species (if not part of the Annex VI data) Two-generation fertility study in the rat (if there are adverse findings from the 28-day or 90-day studies) 21-day Daphnia reproduction study Chronic fish toxicity study Simulation test on the ultimate degradation in surface water Soil simulation test Sediment simulation test Fish bioaccumulation study (unless there is a low predicted bioaccumulation potential, e.g. from Log PoW < 3) Further adsorption/desorption study 14-day earthworm toxicity Study of the effects on soil micro-organisms Short-term toxicity to plants Plus A) and B) requirements Deadline for Registration 3 years from REACH enacting legislation

Derelict vanilla plantation, Seychelles. EU/IFRA policy will repeat similar scenes.

Old clove distillation works, Zanzibar before eugenol was classified as R36-43. Subsequently became derelict!

Flavour & Fragrance House Operations

Perfume Brief Type of product Market Positioning Price range Dosage Expectations Cost range Product manufacturing methods Shelf life Lead time

Fragrance Attributes Features Benefits Signal Attributes Base Cover Impact Odour Profile Malodour Counteractant Substantivity Ingredients Eg essential oils Tangible Benefits Pleasant Fragrance Lasting Fragrance Offensive Odour Cover Intangible Benefits Romance Well-Being Caring Security Lifestyle Association Strength Performance Variant Indicator of Use Life Status Freshness Structure of Attributes for a Fragrance in a Product

The Perfume Development Fragrance Matching New Fragrance according to customer requirement

Testing in Application Test & Evaluation

Comparison of the Industrial and Biological Models of Agriculture Industrial Model Community Model Energy Intensive Information Intensive Linear Process Cyclical Processes Farm as a Factory Farm as an Ecosystem Enterprise Separation Enterprise Integration Single Enterprise Many Enterprises Monoculture Diversity of Plants and Animals Low-Value Products Higher Value Products Single Use Equipment Multiple Use Equipment Passive Marketing Active Marketing

Certification and Value Organic Products have 3 times the value as conventional crops

Rose Oil ( Rosa damascena) Rose alcohols, methyleugenol, beta-damascenone and (-)-cis-rose oxide Produced in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, Thailand, India, China major constituents: (-)-citronellol, certain specific paraffines, geraniol and nerol, phenethyl alcohol, and methyleugenol . Others (-)-cis-rose oxide , beta-damascenone , beta - ionone, 1-p-menthen-9-al, and rose furan (340 other constituents) Method of Extraction: Hydro-distillation of flowers

Rosemary Oil ( Rosmarinus officinalis) (+)-borneol, (+)-bornyl acetate, (+)-camphor, (+)-alpha-terpineol, (+)-verbenone and 1,8-cineole Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of flowering tops Produced in Spain, Morocco and Tunisia Major Constituents : (+)- Borneol, (+)- verbenone , (+)- Alpha - pinene, (+)- bornyl acetate, (+)- camphor and 1,8-cineole

Acacia Absolute ( Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (Mimosaceae) 2-hydroxyacetophenone Origin: Eastern Australia Major Constituents: 2-hydroxyacetophenone Method of Extraction: Solvent extraction

Agarwood ( A quilaria agallocha) karanones in Agarwood Origin: Western Australia, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos Constituents: multitude of oxygenated sesquiterpenes Method of Extraction: infect with a mould, react by producing an aromatic resin, oil extracted by supercritical CO2 from the oleoresin

Ambrette seed Oil Abelmoschus moschatus 5(Z)-tetradecen-14-olide ambrettolide Major Constituents: macrocyclic musks 5 ( Z )- tetradecen-14-olide and 7(Z)-hexadecen-16-olide, also called ambrettolide

Basil Oil Ocimum basilicum estragol, eugenol, methyleugenol and methyl cinnamate linalool, 1,8-cineole and caryophyllene Major constituents: linalool and methylchavicol (estragol), eugenol, methyleugenol, methyl cinnamate, 1,8-cineole, caryophyllene Extraction method: Steam Distillation

Bay Leaf Oil Pimenta racemosa chavicol, eugenol and myrcene Main Constituents: chavicol, eugenol and myrcene Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation Origin: West Indies

Beeswax Absolute phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate Main Constituents: phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate and lower esters (multitude of other odourants) Method of extraction: extraction of the beeswax with ethanol followed by evaporation, yielding around 1 % of absolute useful for creating honeyed flower nuances in luxury perfumes

Benzoin Resin Styrax benzoin , S . tonkinensis coniferyl benzoate and cinnamyl cinnamate Produced mainly in Asiatic countries such as Indonesia, Sumatra, Java, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. Two varieties of benzoin gums exist in the trade: benzoin gum Siam from S. tonkinensis and benzoin gum Sumatra from S. benzoin coniferyl benzoate (65-75 %), p-coumaryl benzoate (10-15 %), cinnamyl cinnamate (styracine) (0.5-6%) , benzoic acid (12 %), siaresinolic acid (6 %) and vanillin (0.3 %).Cinnamyl cinnamate has a mild, soft and very tenacious balsamic-floral odour. However, the odour of the balsam is influenced by minor amounts of volatile constituents like benzaldehyde and methyl benzoate. Benzoin gum Sumatra is richer in cinnamates, cinnamic acid and styrene Method of extraction: Distillation

Buchu leaf Oil Agathosma betulina 'sulphur-terpenoids' from buchu leaf Origin: South Africa Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves Major Constituents:menthone and isomenthone, diosphenol, limonene, pulegone and isopulegone . constituents responsible for the characteristic black currant odour are p - menthane-8-thiol-3-one ( mercapto - menthone ) and its S - acetate ( ca . 3 %).

Boronia Absolute Boronia megastigma examples of boronia odorants derived from carotene: beta-ionone, 3a-hydroxymegastigm-7(E)-ene-9-one and megastigm-7(E)-ene-3,9-dione Production: Tasmania, Australia Method of Extraction: The flowers are extracted with petroleum ether, yielding a waxy concentrate after evaporation. The concentrate is then extracted with alcohol, chilled, filtered and finally evaporated at reduced pressure (Rota-Vapor).

Coriander Oil Coriandrum sativum 2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal (+)-linalool Main constituents: The green leaves have a powerful and penetrating, 'aldehydic' aroma dominated by 2-alkenals, e.g. 2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal , (+)-linalool Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation

Cedarwood Oil ( Cedrus atlantica) atlantone cedrol and cedrene Origin: USA and China Main Constituents: 30 % of (+)- cedrol, alpha - cedrene and other sesquiterpenes used for the synthesis of advanced odorants of the 'precious - woody' and ambery type

Michellia Champaca Origin: India and China (some in Thailand) methyl benzoate and (E,E)-alpha-farnesene from champak headspace Identified Constituents: Methyl benzoate, phenethyl alcohol, phenylacetonitrile, indole and methyl anthranilate, along with sesquiterpenes, e . g . ( E,E )- alpha - farnesene, constituted the body of the headspace . Moreover, ionones, e . g . dihydro - beta - ionone, ( Z )- methyl - epi - jasmonate, a number of aromatic esters, etc . , have been identified in extracts from the flowers Method of extraction: Solvent Extraction

Clove Oil ( Syzygium aromaticum) Bud eugenol, eugenyl acetate caryophyllene Origin: Madagascar, Zanzibar and Indonesia (Limited) The fragrant buds contain about 20 % essential oil . Eugenol ( ca . 80 %) , eugenyl acetate and caryophyllene are the major constituents . Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

Lavender Oil ( Lavandula angustifolia) (-)-linalool, (-)-linalyl acetate (-)-lavandulol and (-)-lavandulyl acetate True lavender oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula angustifolia The classical cultivation area is in the Haute Provence region in France at an altitude of 600-1500 m, where this species grows naturally . The distillation takes place at small local distilleries, collectively producing around 100 t yearly . Today, however, L. angustifolia is grown for oil production in several countries . (-)-( R )- linalool ( 35 %) and its acetate ( 40 %) are the most important constituents of lavender oil . (-)-( R )- lavandulol and its acetate are characteristic, as well as 1-octen-3-yl acetate . More than 300 components have been identified, among them a number of sesquiterpenoids and a multitude of odour - determining trace constituents . Coumarin makes itself conspicuous in particular from the withered flowers

Lemon Oil ( Citrus limon) citral 3,7-dimethyl-2(E),6- octadienal (+)-limonene Lemons are cultivated primarily for their juice . Italy is one of the major exporters . Lemon juice is rich in citric acid and vitamin C ( ascorbic acid ) and is used in cooking for its freshness and sourness . However, the characteristic lemon flavour is due to the essential oil of the peel and is dominated by the aldehyde citral ( geranial + neral, ~ 5 %) combined with smaller amounts of linear aliphatic aldehydes ( C7-C13 ). As with most citrus oils, (+)- limonene is by far the major component ( ~ 65 %) Method of extraction: Expression or steam distillation

Lemongrass Oil ( Cymbopogon citratus) citral geranial : neral = 4 : 1 main constituent of lemongrass oil is citral ( 75 %) , present as a 4:1 mixture of geranial, 3,7-dimethyl-2 ( E ) ,6-octadienal, and neral, 3,7-dimethyl-2 ( Z ) ,6-octadienal The development of newer synthetic methods in terpene chemistry has made these oils less important

Ginger Oil ( Zingiber officinale) citral, beta-sesquiphellandrene, zingeberene, and gingerols/shogaols The fresh ginger rhizome is a versatile ingredient of the far eastern cuisine, and is now commonly used in most of the world. Its flavour is lemony-balsamic and its taste is medium hot.The lemony character of fresh ginger is due to citral. Major components of the essential oil are the sesquiterpenes beta-sesquiphellandrene and zingiberene. The 'sharp' constituents, causing the burning sensation on the mucous membranes, are substituted phenols (gingerols/shogaols) Extraction Method: Steam Distillation Origin: Indonesia, India, Sri Lanka, China

Massoia Bark Oil ( Cryptocarya massoy) Origin: New Guinea and Irian Jaya Highlands Massoia bark has a sweet, coconut-like aroma and is steam distilled to yield massoia bark oil. The bark is obtained by cutting the tree at the base, making circular incisions at one meter intervals, lifting the bark off and allowing it to dry. Each tree yields on average 65 kg of air dried bark. C-10 massoia lactone C-12 massoia lactone Extraction: hydro - distillation of the bark, heartwood and fruits of the massoia tree afford pale yellow - coloured oils in 0.7, 1.2 and 1.0 % yields, respectively Constituents: C-10 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-pentyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (65-68 %), and the C-12 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-heptyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (17-28 %), while the major fruit oil constituent is benzyl benzoate (68%)

Nutmeg (mace) Oil ( Myristica fragrans) (+)-sabinene, (+)-1-terpinen-4-ol safrole, myristicin and elemicin Oil consisting of approximately 90 % terpenes, with sabinene, alpha- and beta-pinene, and 1-terpinen-4-ol as major components. However, a number of phenol ethers play a decisive role for the overall fragrance, three of them are above. Production: Indonesia Extraction Method: Hydro Distillation

Pandanus Oil ( Pandanus odoratissimus) phenethyl methyl ether pandanol Origin: native of South East Asia and is much cultivated on the Indian East Coast The flowers are hydro-distilled to yield a 'kewda attar phenethyl methyl ether ( pandanol) (38 %), together with terpinen-4-ol (19 %), alpha-terpineol (8 %) and phenethyl alcohol (7 %) [79]. Phenethyl alcohol and its derivatives are common odorants in flowers

Orange Oil Sweet ( Citrus sinensis) (all-E)-alpha-sinensal 2,6,10-trimethyl-2(E),6(E),9(E), 11-dodecatetraenal (+)-limonene Major Contstituents: (+)-limonene is the major component, but the distinctive fresh sweetness from the orange peel is mainly due to the sesquiterpene aldehyde sinensal, especially the isomer (all-E)-alpha-sinensal, whose odour detection threshold is as low as 0.05 ppb. Orange oil, obtained by cold-pressing of the peels, is made in several countries in conjunction with orange juice production.

Patchouli Oil ( Pogostemon cablin) (-)-patchoulol and norpatchoulenol Obtained by steam distillation under pressure or CO2- extraction of the dried leaves Patchouli is mostly grown in Indonesia There are no synthetic equivalents of the patchouli scent. Main Constituents: (-)-patchoulol (30-40 %). However, it is maintained that norpatchoulenol, present in only 0.3-0.4 %, is playing a principal part in the overall odour picture.

Pepper Oil ( Piper nigrum) (+)-3-carene piperine Main producer: Sarawak, Malaysia Main Constituents: The pepper seeds contain avolatile oil and the non-volatile compound piperine, the latter being responsible for the burning effect on the mucous membranes.Also, cyclic monoterpenes with 3-carene as the major component (around 35 %). Moreover, a number of hitherto unidentifiedsesquiterpenes probably contribute to its character. Extraction: Steam Distillation of the crushed seeds

Peppermint Oil ( Mentha piperita) (-)-menthol, (-)-menthyl acetate, (-)-menthone and (+)-menthofurane Origin: USA, China, India and Australia The main component of peppermint oil is (-)-menthol (ca. 50 %) followed by (-)-menthone (ca. 20 %) and(-)-menthyl acetate (ca. 10 %). A characteristic of peppermint oil is the high content of (+)-menthofurane (ca. 3 %, sometimes much higher) and a number of specific sesquiterpenes, one of them viridiflorol. Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

Petitgrain Oil ( Citrus aurantium) (-)-linalyl acetate (-)-linalool trace constituents from petitgrain oil Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves (-)-Linalyl acetate and (-)-linalool in the proportion 2:1 make up about 80 % of the oil, but a great number of trace constituents, a few of which are shown above, contribute to its special character Azzaro pour Homme (Azzaro 1978). Origin: Paraguay

Shitake Mushrooms ( Lentinus edodes) lenthionine Main Flavour Constituent: 1,2,3,5,6- pentathiepane, called lenthionine

Star Anise ( Illicium verum) (E)-anethole shikimic acid anisatin Vietnam and southern China Main component (80-90 %) is (E)-anethole and (E)-anethole Steam distillation

Vanilla ( Vanilla planifolia) vanillin and a vanilla vitispirane fruits ('beans' or 'pods') are harvested before they ripen, but the powerful vanilla flavour only develops after a several months of special curing. The beans are spread in the sun in the morning, then covered and kept enclosed during the night. After a while the green beans turn brown, and the glycosidically bound vanillin is slowly liberated. Vanillin, or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde, is by far the major odorant from vanilla, but several additional aroma compounds are formed during the curing process (more than 100 are identified). Guaicol, creosol, acetovanillone, vanillyl alcohol and methyl salicylate seem to be of importance, together with vitispiranes Production: West Indies, Madagascar and Bali

Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata) benzyl acetate (ca. 25 %), p-cresyl methyl ether (ca. 20 %), methyl benzoate (ca. 5 %), methyl salicylate, cinnamyl acetate, (-)-linalool (ca. 15 %), geranyl acetate (ca. 10 %) , farnesyl acetate (ca. 3 %), as well as a number of other sesquiterpenes and their oxygenated derivatives, e.g. muurolol T (ca. 2 %) Extraction Method: Steam distillation of the flowers Origin: Indonesia, Madagascar

Jasmine Absolute ( Jasminum grandiflorum) (-)-jasmine lactone, (Z)-jasmone, (-)- and (-)-epi-methyl jasmonate. benzyl acetate, p-cresol and indole . J. sambac (Z)-3,4-epoxyhex-1-yl acetate and trans-2-ethyl-3-acetoxy-tetrahydrofurane from Arabian jasmine, J. sambac Egypt is the main producer, but demand islowering. In recent years reconstructed oils have been available, almost identical with the natural product, but at a much lower prize. Extraction Method: Solvent extraction

Melaleuca bracteata Source of Aromatic Ethers that can Assist in Relieving Plant Stress Cultivates Well in Thailand Rapidly Growing Market 1,8-cineole A-terpineol Methyl eugenol

Artemisia annua A source of artemisinin for treatment of malaria World Shortage Straight forward cultivation

Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) High Investment to Expand Industry in Australia Strong Demand as an Ingredient for tea Good Crop to Grow in Most Parts of Thailand Citral (geranial 51.43 % and neral 42.12 % )

Eucalyptus citriodora Good Monsoon Crop Easy to Cultivate Oil is a bi-product Excellent & High Valued Hard Wood One year for oil 10 years for timber Percentage of oil yields is 0.9 %. citronellal (88.62%), β-pinena (0.16%), 1, 8-cineol (0.32%), 5-hepten (0.14%), linalool (0.12%), citronellol (0.52%), isopulegol (0.33%), 3- cyclohexanol (3.66%)and β-citronellol (0.52%).

Lengkuas (Alpinia galanga) UV Properties Flavour Ingredient Easy to cultivate Niche Oil –specialised market kampheride, alpinin, galangin, methyl cinnamate , cincole, 1’-acetoxychavicol acetate, 1’-hydroxychavicol acetate, galantin-3-methyl ether, a-terpineol, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, trans -coniferyl diacetate, trans-p -courmaryl diacetate, a-bergamotene, b-bisabolene, borneol, borneol acetate, butanol acetate, campene, carveol I, carveol II, chavicol acetate, citronellol acetate, a-copaene, curcumene, p-cymene, p-cymenol, eugenol methyl ether, 1’-acetoxyeugenol acetate, trans-b -farnescene, geraniol acetate, a-humulene, limonene, myrcene, nerol acetate, pentadecane, linalool, propanol acetate, 2-methyl sabinene, santalene, b-sesquiphellandrene (Malaysian Herbal Monograph) , g-terpinene, terpinolene, tridecane, caryophyllene oxide, 1’hydroxycineol acetate, p-hydroxycinnamaldehyde, di-(p-hydroxy-cis-styryl)-methane, a-pinene, b-pinene, quercetin, kaempferol, quercetin-3-methyl ether, isorhamnetin and derivative of 4-allylphenol

Geranium ( pelargonium species) Potential High Value Boutique Crop Good for Hilly Terrain Citronellol, andgeraniol, which occur in different proportions according to the origin of the oil. Both Bourbon and North African-types contain unusual high quantities of (-)-citronellol, isomenthone and monoterpene formates. However they can be distinguished by the presence of different constituents such as guaia-6,9-diene in Bourbon oil and 10-epi-[gamma]-eudesmol in the African-type. The Chinese oil is similar to Bourbon-type, having higher content of citronellol (+40%) and lower content of Iinalool and geraniol (1,3). Distillation or solvent extraction of the dried leaves

Tea Tree ( Melaleuca alternifolia) No Stable Production Forecast Shortage Potential Downstream Suitable All Areas Few Pest & Disease Issues Small or Large Scale Production Established Market

Tea Tree: Economics (1 st Year) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 200kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 272,000 Estimated Costs Amount Nursery BHT20,000 Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000 Total Cost BHT50,000 Net Profit First Year: BHT222,000 Net Profit First Year (If Organic): BHT 766,000

Tea Tree: Economics (2 nd Year) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 300kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 408,000 Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000 Total Cost BHT30,000 Net Profit 2nd Year: BHT378,000 Net Profit 2nd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,194,000

Tea Tree: Economics (Subsequent Years) Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 450kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg) Revenue= BHT 612,000 Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000 Maintenance BHT5000 Harvesting & Distillation BHT35,000 Total Cost BHT45,000 Net Profit 3rd Year: BHT 567,000 Net Profit 3rd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,791,000

Tea tree Industry in Australia High capital Investment Industry

No major producers left in Australia

China taking over as the largest producer

Failure of the Australian Industry to take a global business view

Citrus Floral Aldehydic Spicy Basic Fragrance Types Oriental Chypre Fougere

Representative Ingredients Natural : Lemon Oil, Bergamote, Lime…. Chemical : Citral, Dihydo Myrcenol…. Representative Fine Fragrance O de Lancome (1975. Lancome) Bulgari Eau Parfume (1992. Bulgari) CK one (1994. C.Klein) Eau Savage (1966.C.Dior) Bergamot Lemon Orange Rose Jasmine Lily of Valley Oakmoss Ambergris Civet Eau Savage Citrus notes Citrus + Floral

Citrus notes Bergamot Lemon Mandarin Dihydro Myrcenol Jasmin Muguet Amber Musk Sandalwood Green CK One Citrus Floral Amber Woody Musk

Floral notes Floral + Floral Representative Ingredients Natural : Jamine Abs, Ylang Ylang, Rose Abs. Tuberose …. Chemical : Hedion, Benzyl Acetate…. Representative Fine Fragrance Joy (1935. Jean Patou) Diorssimo (1956.C.Dior) Anais Anais (1979. Cacharel) Paris (1983. YSL) Beautiful (1985. E. Lauder) Green Jasmine Rose Ylang Ylang Violet Muguet Musk Sandalwood Powdery JOY Green Floral Musk Woody Powdery

Aldehydic notes Floral + Aldehydic Representative Ingredients Natural : Not available Chemical : Aldehyde C-11, Aldehyde C-12..…. Representative Fine Fragrance Chanel No. 5 (1921. Chanel) Calandre (1969. 1969. Rabanne) First (1976. Van Cleef & Arpels) Chanel No. 5 Aldehyd 10 Muguet Ylang-Ylang Jasmine Rose Carnation Aldehyde C-11 Aldehyde C-12 Vanilla Sandalwood Musk Floral Aldehyddic Woody Powder

Spicy notes Floral + Spicy Representative Ingredients Natural : Clove Buds oil, Pepper oil, Cinnamon oil. Carnation……. Chemical : Eugenol, Cinnamic Aldehyde ..…. Representative Fine Fragrance L’air du Temps (1948. Nina Ricci) Fidji (1966. Guy Laroche) Egoist (1990. Chanel) Bergamot Ylang Ylang Carnation Jasmine Rose Iris Sandalwood Cedarwood Musk Floral Spicy Floral Woody Musk L'Air du temps

Chypre notes What is Chypre ….? Citrus Green Aldehyde Floral (Jasmine, Rose, Ylang…) Woody Mossy Patchouli Representative Fine Fragrance Mitsouko (1919. Guerlain) Miss Dior (1947. Christian Dior) Coco (1984. Chanel) Ysatis (1984. Givenchy) Representative Ingredients Natural : Oak moss Abs. Vertiver, Patchouli oil Galbanum Cederwood, Sandalwood Chemical : Veramoss, Iso E Super..….

Bergamot Mandarin Galbanum AldehydC-11 Jasmine Rose Ylang-Ylang Muguet Amber Mossy Patchouli Mossy Woody Oriental Citrus Green Aldehyde Floral Amber Woody Mossy Chypre notes - Fine Fragrance COCO

Oriental notes What is Oriental ….? Representative Ingredients Natural : Vanilla, Tolu Balsam, Mandarin, Cinnamon Chemical : Vanillin, Galaxolide..…. Representative Fine Fragrance Shalimar (1925. Guelain) Obsession (1984. Calvin Klein) Opium (1977. YSL) Samsara (1989. Guelain) Jean Paul Gaultier (1993. J.P.Gaultier) Citrus Mandarin Lemon Spicy(cinamon..) Floral Vanilla Abs. Sweet Balsam

Bergamot Orange Jasmine Rose Tuberose Orangeflower Vanilla Amber Castoreum Citrus Floral Woody Powdery Oriental notes - Fine Fragrance Shalimar

Fougere notes What is Fougere ….? Representative Ingredients Natural : Lavender, Lavendin, Eucalyptus Chemical : Lavender Spike Oil, Carvone-L..…. Representative Fine Fragrance Brut (1964. Faberge) Drakkar Noir (1982. Guy Laroche) Paco Rabanne (1973. Paco Rabanne) Cool Water (1988. Davidoff) Herbacious Bergamot Lavender Floral (Muguet, Geranium, Carnation) Powdery Mossy Woody

Bergamot Lavendin Clove Spearmint Muguet Geranium Carnation Powdery Mossy Cederwood Herbacious Floral Woody Powdery Fougere notes - Fine Fragrance Drakkar Noir

Just as in any other industry technology in the flavour and fragrance industry is rapidly changing due to technology, consumer tastes and regulation Technology Consumer style change

Illustration of Lily of the Valley Fragrances from 19 th Century and Today 19 th Century Tuberose extract 21oz Jasmin extract 3oz Rose extract 2oz Orange flower extract 2oz Spirit of rose 2oz Essence of vanilla 2oz Ylang ylang No.1 1/2 oz Bergamot oil 1/2 oz Bois de rose extract 1/4oz Present Hydroxycitronellal 35.0 Rhodinol 18.0 Linalool 14.5 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 12.0 Geraniol 4.5 Di methyl benzyl cabinal acetate 4.5 Amyl cinnamic aldehyde 3.6 Lilial (Givaudan) 2.0 Iso eugenol 0.5 Phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal 0.2 Benzyl benzoate 4.2 Indole (10% solution DPG) 1.0 Addition of aroma chemicals and proprietary specialties

Emerging Fragrance Trends Sophisticated Red Fruits Pomegranate, redcurrant, raspberry leaves Red Fruit will go darker Blackcurrant, blackberry, black rose and black plum Gourmand notes Chocolate replacing vanilla as a base, brown sugar Milky notes Milk, milky coconut More specific exotic fruit Passionfruit, star fruit, kiwi, guava, litchi sorbet instead of pineapple, and coconut Pink pepper New spicy note Oriental influences Tea (red tea and green tea), ginger and bamboo for herbal notes based on oriental influences Chocolate, mango and musk black

USA Asian Influence Sesame, wasabi, ginger, noodle and Asian cabbage Indian Influence Fruit, spice and toasted nuts, chutney, quince pear, roasted coriander, pistaschio,almond & walnut Blue and goat cheese Mexico Tarmarind, squash flowers, huitlacoche (corn mushroom), portobello mushroom, duck meat North America Cuisines with most potential for growth Mediterranean influence Indian influence Middle East influence Slow Food Europe Fusion style Thai, Indonesian, Vietnamese influences Contemporary cuisine Mediterranean influence Exotic combinations South America Fusion style Thai/Chinese Western/Chinese Indonesian/Thai American/Mediterranean Italian French Asia/Pacific

Emerging Processed Food Flavour Trends Exotic Infusions A spicy kick of lemongrass, curcuma, pepper, coriander, ginger, basil, cardamom, cinnamon, oregano Red Pleasures Strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate, roobos, greengage, rhubarb, plum, blood orange, cherry variants, black current, huckleberry Black Health Black tea, black vinegar, black sesame seeds, black soybeans, black rice, black sugar, malt Botanical Power Honeysuckle, lavender blossom, elderflower, hibiscus, sunflower blossom, rose Attracting Opposites Spicy/mild, sweet/sour, hot/cold, fire/ice Ethnic Revival Traditional tastes and flavours, African hibiscus, Japanese cherry blossom, or Maroccan kumquat Flavour Migration Different categories start to mingle, desert drinks, coffee, cocktails

Formulary of finished products

The Evolution of the Laundry Detergent Product Evolution changes market positioning

Fragrance Terpineol 50 Dihydromyrcenol 50 Floramat (Henkel) 50 Vertacetal (Dragoco) 50 P-tertButyl cyclohexal acetate 50 Cyclemen aldehyde 50 Magoflor 50 (IFF) 50 Citronellol 50 Galaxolide (IFF) 50 Benzyl Salicylate 50 Linalool 80 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 100 A-amyl cinnamaldehyde 100 Isoeugenol 10 Undecylenaldehyde 10 Benzyl acetate 20 Allyl ionone 20 Vigorose (IFF) 20 Dimetol (Givauden) 20 Ionone 20 Coumarin 20 Ocimenyl acetate 20 Anisaldehyde 30 Cinnamic alcohol 30 Fragrance Formulation for Kao Attack

Considerations in Developing Fragrances for Laundry Products Loss of perfume materials from a detergent powder after storage at room temperature in a cardboard container

Diffusion Constants of Some Perfume Materials Through High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) from a Methanol Solution at 23c

Benefits and Technologies in Cleaning Clothes Problem Dirty Clothes Hand Washing Automatic local Washer/Dryer Launderette Machine Dry Cleaners Electrical Technology Solvents Washing Powders Fabric Conditioners Benefit Clean Clothes Laundry Powders Liquid Detergents

Demographics of Odour Communication Perfumery Marketing Mix Cleanliness Softness Citrus Lemon Herbal Green Psychological Association Objective: to reinforce the belief of the consumer in the desired and projected image of the product Synergy with product presentation: packaging, colour, advertising, corporate image Product Differentiation

What is this the formula of? Part 1 3.50 ml orange oil 1.00 ml lemon oil 1.00 ml nutmeg oil 1.25 ml cassia oil 0.25 ml coriander oil 0.25 ml neroli oil 2.75 ml lime oil 0.25 ml lavender oil 10.0 g food-grade gum arabic 3.00 ml water Part 2 2.00 tsp. Flavouring formula 20g coca leaf extract 20g cola extract 5 g vanilla 3.50 tsp. 75% phosphoric acid 2.28 l water 2.36 kg plain granulated white table sugar 0.50 tsp. caffeine 30.0 ml caramel colour 500 ml lime juice Part 3 Mix parts 1 & 2 together and then add 1:5 parts of water and carbonate.

Phurua, Loei Province The system of extraction uses a new family of benign non-CFC gaseous solvents (R134a) 1,1,1,2 tetrafluoroethylene Producing Rose oil, jasmin grandiflorum and sambac, champaca, ylang ylang, frangipani. Selling to Europe and US markets Coffee Extract Tuberose

Rose Harvesting Rose Collection Extraction Preparation Extraction

Non Commission Officer Welfare Project

Plai oil (Zingiber cassumunar) Major Constituents: terpinen-4-ol, a-terpinene, sabinene, g-terpinene, cis -3-(2',4',5'-trimethoxyphenyl -4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''-trimethoxy-styryl]cyclohex- 1-ene, cis -3-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-3''',4'''- dimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene, cis -3- (3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''- trimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene (3),(E)-4- (3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-ol, E)-4- (3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-yl acetate, 8-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-2-methoxynaphtho- 1,4- quinone Sabinene and terpinen-4-ol a-terpinene g-terpinene Extraction Method: Steam distillation of the rhizomes

Cajuput (Gelam) Melaleuca cajuputi Local Tree Number potential Markets Can Basically Set Price Easy to Cultivate

Persicaria odoratum ( Kesum) New Material Good Highland Crop Small Scale High Value Pests Easily Controlled Doesn’t need Registration as an Aromatic Chemical

Potential Careers in the Industry Technical Natural Products Chemist BHT 30-70K p.m. Product Development Chemist BHT 40-120K Analytical Chemist BHT 30-70K Fragrance Compounder BHT 25-50K Product Application Chemist BHT 30-80K Specialist Agrominist BHT 40-80K per Month Distillation Engineer BHT40-70K per month

Potential Careers in the Industry Professional Perfumer BHT 150-500K per month Flavourist BHT 120-400K per month Fragrance evaluator BHT 40-60K per Month Flavour and Fragrance House Sales & marketing BHT60-120K per month Product Manager Cosmetic Industry BHT 60-120K per Month

Potential Careers in the Industry Entrepreneurial Essential Oils Farming Agro tourism & Spa Cosmetic Business Aromatherapy/Herbalist Producer of spices Islamic Herb Producer

http :// www . bojensen . net / EssentialOilsEng / EssentialOils26 / EssentialOils26 . htm IFF Basic Perfume Course Curtis, T. & Williams, D. G., Introduction to Perfumery, New York, Ellis Horwood, 1994 Hunter, M., M., Extrait Perfumes, Cosmetic World News, July, 1994, (UK) Hunter, M., M., The Evolution of Extrait Perfumes, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia , Vol. 9, No. 2, pp. 19-24, May 1995 (Aus) Hunter, M.M., A Framework to Develop New Essential Oils, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia , Vol. 9, No. 4, pp. 23-31, Sept. 1995 (Aus) Hunter, M.M., Some Issues and Difficulties Related to Developing New Essential Oils with Reference to the Essential Oil of Polygonum odoratum , Grown in Southern Australia, in Baser, K.H.C., (Editor), Flavours, Fragrances and Essential Oils, Proceedings of the 13th International Congress of Flavours, Fragrances and essential Oils, Istanbul, Turkey, 15-19 October 1995, P. 389. Hunter, M., M., Kesom Oil: A New Essential Oil for the International Flavour Industry, Agro-Food High-Tech, International Journal of Green Chemistry , Vol. 7., No. 5, Sept.-October 1996, Hunter, M., M., The Flavour and fragrance Industry: Structure and Future trends, Cosmetics, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia, Vol. 9, No. 6, pp. 20-31, March 1996 (Aus) Hunter, M.M., Malaysia: A New Source of Tea tree Oil. Invited Paper presented at Personal Care Ingredients Asia Exhibition and Conference , April 1997, PWTC, Kuala Lumpur Hunter, M. M., Essential Oils: Various Industry Models Around the World, Invited Paper Presented to the Seminar on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants 2005 , Forest Research Institute of Malaysia, Cititel Mid valley, 13-14th September, 2005. Hunter, M., The Growing Demand for essential oils and other plant extracts in agricultural applications, Berita IKM (Malaysian Institute of Chemistry) , December, 2006 Porter, M. E, Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance, New York, Free Press, 1985 Developing Essential Oils in Malaysia as a Global Industry, Paper delivered to the 2nd. Malaysia Agro-Bio Business Conference , 2006, 13-14th July, PWTC, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Invited Speaker) References

Muller, P. M. and Lamparksky, D., Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology, London, Blackie Academic & Professional, 1994 Denny, E. F. K., Field Distillation for Herbaceous Oils, Tasmania, Self Published, 1990. Brophy, J., J. and Doran, J., C., Essential Oils of Tropical Asteromyrtus, Callistemon and Melaleuca Species, Canberra, ACIAR, 1996

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