Intro to pattern making - S. Manohari
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1. The document provides an introduction to pattern making, discussing that patterns are templates used to cut fabric for garments. 2. Pattern making involves technical skills to interpret designs and understand garment construction, acting as a bridge between design and production. 3. The document describes different types of paper patterns including standardized, individualized, final, block, readymade, graded, and commercial patterns.
Intro to pattern making - S. Manohari
- 1. INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING S.Manohari, msc., Assistant professor, Department of fashion technology and costume designing, Bon secours college for women, Thanjavur.
- 2. PATTERN Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garment or apparel. Actually pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. It is one of the most important parts of garment manufacturing industry. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding of garment construction. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.
- 3. PATTERN MAKING Pattern Making is a blueprint for the garment, on the basis of which the fabric is cut. It is the technical drawing or drafting of a garment. Standard size charts, dress forms or figure are measured, these measurements are then converted into 2D patterns and then garments are made from them.A
- 4. TYPES OF PAPER PATTERN 1. Standardized paper pattern: Paper patterns prepared using standardised body measurements are called standardised paper patterns. This method is followed in training and tailoring schools. 2. Individual paper pattern: The measurement of a particular person is taken and a pattern is prepared using these individual measurements. The pattern prepared for a particular person will not suit another person. These are usually done at home and some tailor shops.
- 5. TYPES OF PAPER PATTERN 3. Final paper patterns: Once the individual is satisfied with the paper patterns, they are made into final paper patterns. Though, while making individual patterns all the precautions are taken, yet, there could be some minor points, which are to be considered. These minor details are corrected and finally made into permanent patterns. 4. Block paper pattern: Normally these are made with standard sizes with thick cardboard. These are mostly used in the garment industry. The garment made out of these block patterns will fit those who have measurements equal to that of the standardised body measurement.
- 6. TYPES OF PAPER PATTERN 5. Readymade patterns: These are made using a unique type of tracing paper. These can be procured from the market and are more useful for people who can do stitching, but not drafting. These can be bought readymade and can be easily used by placing on the material and cutting and stitching accordingly. 6. Graded paper pattern: Patterns of five consecutive sizes (e.g. 30″, 32″, 34″, 35″ and 38″ chest size) are marked in one single pattern. The required size according to the individual body measurement is traced separately, cut and used. 7. Commercial paper pattern: The paper patterns for different designs are available in readymade forms. These patterns are called commercial patterns. These patterns are enclosed in an envelope along with an instruction sheet. The instruction sheet will provide information about selection of fabric, preparation of fabric, marking, cutting, and steps for sewing. The front side of the envelope contains the front view, side view and back view of the garment design along with the body measurements.
- 7. WORKROOM TERMS 1. CUT AND SEW Knit fabrics that are laid out and cut like a woven fabric, instead of being full-fashioned 2. CAD Computer Aided Design- used as a conceptual tool to design and develop products 3. FLAT SKETCHES Technical sketch of a product as if it were laying flat- includes stitching & seaming details 4. FULL-FASHIONED Knit garments that have been shaped on a flat knitting machine
- 8. WORKROOM TERMS 5. GRADING Proportionately increasing or decreasing the dimensions of parts of a product according to the size ranges intended for production. 6. KNIT Fabric created by interlocking loops of yarn 7. MARKER A full-scale diagram, usually on paper, indicating the most fabric conscience placement for all the graded pattern pieces in a garment. Used in the fabric cutting process for production. 8. MINIMUMS The minimum quantity that a vendor requires in order to contract their goods or services. 9. PATTERN A paper or computer model for each piece of a product. Used as a guide to construct a product. 10. PROTOTYPE A full size working model of a new product or new version of an existing product used as a basis for later production stages.
- 9. WORKROOM TERMS 11. PURCHASE ORDER (PO) A legal, binding contract between a buyer and a supplier. 12. SOURCING Process of obtain goods and/or services from a manufacturer either domestically or globally. 13. TECHNICAL SPEC PACKAGING (TECH PACK) Includes all the information to communicate to a vendor how to produce a product (size, fabrication, quality standards, etc.) 14. WOVEN Fabric composed of two yarns running in perpendicular directions woven together 15. FABRIC CONSTRUCTION The specific base construction of a fabric: (knit, woven, or non- woven), type of structure and size/weight.
- 10. ADVANTAGES OF PAPER PATTERN: A better pattern of the appropriate size manipulated to individual requirements results in a better fit. A pattern made in a thick paper or cardboard shall be maintained for a longer period of time and can be reused several times. By modifying the basic pattern pieces using the flat pattern technique, it is feasible to make patterns for intricate and original designs. A paper pattern of a specific size can be used to produce patterns of other sizes by means of a grading process. The errors that occur during pattern drafting can be corrected in the pattern itself. Patterns can be changed/modified according to the latest fashion trend.