Patternmaking
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Pattern making is a technical process that connects garment design to production. It involves creating paper templates for all garment components that will be cut from fabric. There are three main methods of preparing patterns: drafting, draping, and using commercial patterns. Computer software is now commonly used to assist with tasks like pattern grading and marker making to efficiently produce patterns in multiple sizes.
Patternmaking
- 1. GARMENT PATTERN MAKING Prepared by R.S.BALAKUMAR Associate professor Dept. of Fashion Design &Arts. HITS/PADUR/603103
- 2. • Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. • For successful dress designing patternmaking forms the fundamental step. • This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment. • There are three methods of preparing patterns: • Drafting • Draping • Bought or commercial pattern
- 3. Drafting • Is a two dimensional basic method of preparing a paper pattern. The pattern is prepared on brown paper using personal measurements of the wearer. • The garment prepared by this method fits exactly to the satisfaction of the wearer. • It is economical to draft one's own pattern. Also changes in style can be made adopting the basic pattern. • This type of pattern can be constructed by drafting manually or produced by a computer which has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given measurements and proportions.
- 4. Draping • Draping can be treated as one involving a detailed survey and study of the figure to build up a reliable fitting experience. • Draping originally was called modelling. • • This was the original method of constructing garment patterns and is still widely used in the clothing design houses in Paris Draping is a free approach and is always to a certain extent experimental and cannot be described as a precise technique.
- 5. • Modelling is done in a fitting room on a dress form with a stand. Dress forms vary in size. • Generally an average sized dress form of bust 88 cms or 92 cms is selected for this purpose. • The designer works from a sketch or a mental picture and gives a 3-dimension form to an idea of a garment. • The wrong side of the fabric is draped on the dress form or a figure. • The effect of the fabric as it flows and drapes is readily visible on the dress form. Muslin cloth is used for draping. • As the fabric is draped on the dress form pin, and mark the stitching line with a pencil. • The muslin pattern which is the end product of draping is removed from the stand and each component is copied on to the paper pattern and necessary allowances are then added to give the design effect as planned by the designer.
- 6. Bought or Commercial Patterns • These patterns provide fashions in current trend designed to fit certain sizes. • It is available in tissue paper. • These patterns indicate neck sizes for garments such as shirts, chest or bust measurements for children and women; waist, hip and length measurements for pants and skirts. • Even to those with the ability and desire to design their own clothing, a commercial pattern makes a good starting point.
- 7. • These patterns explain the steps in using the pattern and are mostly used by dress manufacturing companies. It also gives information on suitable fabrics, quantity of material required, pattern layouts etc. Most figures differ considerably from the average. Uses of Paper Patterns: • Paper patterns are useful not only to the beginner but also to the expert as there is no risk of the material being wrongly cut. • It is particularly useful to the beginner as it is a better method of learning than cutting the material directly. • Paper patterns can be preserved and used whenever required and is therefore time and labour saving. • Adjustment in paper patterns can be done to ensure perfect fitting. • By using the basic paper pattern it is possible to bring changes in the design. For example the basic sleeve can be adopted to puff or bell sleeve. • The use of paper pattern will enable one to cut a garment with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for the dress designer to try out the placement of pattern pieces in an economical way.
- 8. The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. • Patternmaking is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. • It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. • Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. Now a days sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.
- 9. Contents of Paper Patterns • Margin: Extra safety margins are cut beyond the actual cutting line to make adjustments while stitching. Margins are generally allowed on upholstery items such as sofa slip covers. • Cutting line: This is the actual line on which garments are cut. • Stitching line: Paper pattern shows the exact stitching line so that the person stitching the garment will identify where exactly the actual stitching has to be done. • Fold line: When there are two sides to a pattern such as back & front side then the fold line on the pattern has to be clearly indicated marking it as Fold Line. • Grain line: Every pattern piece has an arrow indicating the grainline - whether the fabric has to be cut on straight or cross grain, Collars, cuffs and other trimmings are cut on the cross grain to give a better finish to the garment. • Construction details: Tucks, darts, button holes, Centre front, Centre back, pocket markings, buttons, style features of the garment are all shown on the paper pattern' • Graceful curves and shapes wherever required on the paper pattern are also clearly indicated. • Pattern size and particulars like front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff etc are shown. • If necessary the pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the garment. This is generally done in a commercial pattern to enable the sewer to use the pattern correctly.
- 10. Pattern Markings
- 11. • Once the pattern is graded, the fabric must be prepared for cutting. • In order to spread the fabric properly, the spreader must know how the pattern pieces will be placed on the fabric. • "Marking" refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be cut out of a given piece of fabric. • Firms strive for "tight" markers largely because fabric is one of a manufacturer's most significant business costs, often exceeding the cost of labor. • Although markers can be made by hand or using CAD software, the computerized method is up to eight times faster. • Once a marker is completed, a CAD system can use a plotter to print a full size layout on a long sheet of paper. This layout becomes the guide for the cutter.
- 12. • Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. • Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. • Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation. • After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step.
- 13. • Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. • In computerized marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required. • Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique. • Layout and cutting markings don't need to be transferred to the fabric. Construction markings, on the other hand, are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea.
- 14. • Pre-Layout Markings • Pattern Adjustment Lines: Two parallel lines that indicate where you can lengthen or shorten a pattern piece to maintain the original shaping. This should be done before layout. • Waistline Marking: A short solid line that indicates the natural waistline of the wearer. During tissue-fitting, if the waistline is not in the same position as the pattern marking, adjustment may be needed on the Pattern Adjustment Lines.
- 16. • Marker making is the creation of cutting temples for the various parts of a garment. • This may be done on the card board or paper, the former being more durable. • In some cases markers are made on continuous rolls of paper for proficiency. Form all the pattern pieces of varying size, a master marker is made. • The marker is the cutting guide or pattern. Lay out made on a sheet or light weight paper the same width as the fabric. The purpose of the marker is three fold:
- 17. • The purpose of the marker is three fold: • To make a lay out for the cutter to allow • To place pattern pieces close together to avoid fabric waste • To accommodate the cutting order (ensuring that the correct quantities of each size are cut). • The desire economical use of space is called a tight marker, which utilizes the highest percentage of fabric possible to avoid waste. • Patterns are laid out so that each size and • colour is cut as needed (popular sizes are repeated on the marker). Grain direction, one-way prints, plaids, strips, and naps are considered in making the marker. • Computerized marker making.
- 18. • Most manufacturers now make their marker on a CAD system or have it made by an outside service. • Miniatures of the graded pattern pieces are displayed graphically on the computer screen. • The operator can electronically position the pattern pieces in to the most efficient arrangement. • Once the marker is completed, a full-scale marker is printed by the plotter on a long sheet of paper.
- 19. General information on the Pattern marking • Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique. • Layout and cutting markings don't need to be transferred to the fabric. Construction markings, on the other hand, are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea. • Every pattern piece has general information printed in the center. Each piece is numbered and the number indicates the order in which the pieces are sewn together.
- 20. • For example: Skirt Front 1 is joined to Skirt Back 2. • Other helpful information includes: • Pattern brand and style number • View letter (if there is more than one view) • Size • Name of the piece (skirt front, sleeve, pleat underlay, etc.) and its number • Cutting information (cut one on fold, cut two, etc.) • Lining/interfacing information (if applicable)
- 21. • Patterns can be formed by either a 2D or 3D process. • Often a combination of methods is used to create the pattern. • The most common 2D patternmaking methods are flat, drafting and reverse engineering. • In the flat method, a pattern is generated from an existing foundation pattern called a sloper or block. • A sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines. • From a sloper a numerous of garment styles can be generated. • The patternmaker creates a new style by adding design details such as a collar, pocket and pleats. • The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate.
- 22. Notches • After all the pattern pieces are cut, you can begin marking each piece. • It provides “road signs” showing where to sew and press. It will also speed your sewing time when done correctly. • Marking will take only a little time and is not as tiring as using the tracing wheel or placing the pattern back on the fabric to look for a lost detail. • There are 2 types of notches Pattern notches and centre notches. •
- 23. Notches • By using ready-to-wear tricks, like nips, notches, and tailor tacks for marking, you can make your sewing projects much easier to complete. There are two areas that must be marked when you transfer the pattern marking to the cloth: outside edges and the inside details. • There are two types of notches in sewing: pattern notches and center notches.
- 24. • Pattern notches are the single or double notches printed on the pattern’s cutting • Denote center front and center back pattern pieces • Allow for easing and stretching • Avoid confusion among a number of pieces that may look alike
- 25. Center Notches Center notches are small V-shaped wedges of fabric removed from a seam allowance. They should be cut into all centers and folds to indicate center and grain. For example, when matching the neckline to the facing, match the notches in the dress to the notches in the facing. The dress will be perfectly on grain. Notches should be placed on the pattern edge in the following areas: •All center dots in sleeve caps •All centers of the neckline, front and back of the garment, facings, and the collars •All centers in hems
- 26. What is a Nip? Nips are small cuts put into the outside edge of the fabric with the point of your shears. These are placed wherever the 5/8" stitching starts or stops at the edge of a seamline.
- 27. • It is better to sit down for pattern nipping, as you will have better control of the shears. • You need to be near your work for control and simply to see what you are doing. • Take one piece of the pattern and fabric (still pinned or weighted together) and carefully go all the way around each piece. • Nip all the seam edge intersections.
- 28. 1.All zipper endings (or notch) 2.Pockets on seam edges (or notch) 3.Interfacing and underlining 4.Linings • If the layers of fabric are too much for the shears to nip when there are interfacing and linings, simply place the point of the shears on the fabric as if to cut.Give the point a swift tap with the edge of your left hand. This small tap will force the shears through the layers of fabric cleanly and quickly.
- 72. • In the drafting method, patterns are made directly from measurements taken from a preexisting garment, an individual or a body form. • Using the collected measurements, the pattern is drawn directly onto paper. • Reverse engineering is sometimes referred to as garment deconstruction or a knock-off. • In the reverse engineering process, patterns are made from an existing garment. • The garment is taken apart, analyzed and the patterns pieces are made.
- 73. • In the 3D patternmaking process, the pattern pieces are generated from a 3D form. • Draping is one of the oldest methods used to generate a pattern. • In the traditional draping process, a garment is produced by molding, cutting and pinning fabric to a mannequin or individual. • Style lines and constructions details of the drape are carefully marked and removed. • Fabric pieces with the construction and style details are generated. • The fabric pieces are then laid flat over pattern paper and traced. • The pattern is finalized by adding directional markings such as grainlines, notches, buttonholes, correct seam and hem allowances and facings. • Draping is especially helpful when developing intricate garment styles or using unusual fabric.
- 74. • Computers have been used by apparel companies since the early 1980's. • Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking. • PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked and re-filed. • Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and make changes. • There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. • In today's competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.
- 75. • The ability to mass produce customized patterns according to an individual's unique body shape could offer tremendous benefits to the consumer, retailer and apparel manufacturer. • The textile industry continues to research this exciting field with a long term goal of bringing superior fit and performance to the customer.
- 76. • The apparel industry is notoriously fast-paced and competitive. • Innovative software companies continue to make improvements to their PDS to enable apparel companies to better serve their customers. • Current research focuses on generating patterns that produce better fitting garments and 3D visualization tools to help fine tune style. • With ongoing technological advances and diligent research, patternmaking software companies continue to successfully address the needs of their customers.
- 77. Pattern Making Process • Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. • Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. • "Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a complete garment. • For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper because the cost of computerized systems remains too expensive.
- 78. • The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. • S/he may "manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces. • S/he may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the shapes of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces. • Alternatively, s/he may pin pieces of muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts, making a "muslin rub." • The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern.
- 79. • From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed. • The sample process allows a designer to correct any problems inherent in translating a one-dimensional sketch into a two- dimensional garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are accurate; and it provides an opportunity to spot potential production problems inherent in a design. • Once the sample is made, the manufacturer makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales force to test market. If they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production.
- 80. • Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns on a computer using CAD software. • Other systems have been developed that allow patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a computer. • As the patternmaker indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces are automatically entered into the CAD system where they can immediately be accessed for grading and marking. • Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized, patternmakers still must learn the manual method because making patterns manually develops an advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a computer.
- 81. •THANK YOU.