INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING
- 1. UNIT TWO INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN MAKING (PART 1) Ms. Peace Akosua Tsekpo Vocational and Technical Education Home Economics Unit (Clothing and Textiles)
- 2. PATTERNS AND PATTERN MAKING A pattern is a shape of garment made from a brown paper or muslin and it is used as a guide in dressmaking. Patterns are useful for obtaining the correct size, shape, and measurement of a garment. They are templates from which the part of garment are traced onto fabrics before being cut out and assembled. The three basic method of obtaining pattern are drafting, draping and flat pattern making .
- 3. PATTERNS AND PATTERN MAKING contd. Pattern making is the means of achieving shape of garment with the use of brown paper, muslin and accurate body measurement for a style. Or It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of a fabric to conform to one or more cures of a human figure.
- 4. Importance of Pattern making ❑ It makes sewing easy and faster ❑ It is economical in terms of fabric ❑ It gives a feeling of confidence ❑ it gives accurate fit when done correctly ❑ It helps one to design garments that are unique and original. ❑ Old garments can be restyled and remodeled to bring them up to date with fashions in vogue.
- 5. Importance of Pattern Making CTND ❑ It gives better understanding to pattern alternations and fitting of patterns and garments. ❑ It helps to analyze the causes of mistakes during sewing intelligently and make proper correction before cutting out. ❑ It helps one to understand the correct use of grain lines in achieving the desired goal in clothing construction. ❑ Patterns can always be used again in future.
- 6. Tools and materials needed for pattern making Set square Flexible plastic ruler Measuring tape French curve set ½ scale sloper patterns set Brown envelopes Thumb tacks Cellotape Brown paper Tape measure
- 7. Patterns groups: There are two (2) main groups of patterns ❑ Commercial patterns ❑ Home-made/ Paper pattern
- 8. Types of pattern/ Methods of Making Patterns ❑ Commercial pattern ❑ Drafting ❑ Draping/ Modelling ❑ Copying (flat patterns) ❑ Making patterns from existing garment (knock-off)
- 9. Commercial Patterns They are bought paper patterns that come in an envelope with the style and measurement at the back of the envelope. Standardized body measurements are used in making the patterns for different garment designs and offered for sale. They are normally made by well-known and reliable firms. They come in different style, sizes, and manufactures (Brand name).
- 10. Information on Instruction Sheet ❑ Pattern markings and their meanings ❑ Layout and cutting out instructions ❑ Diagrams to guide one in sewing ❑ Suggested sewing techniques and their instructions ❑ General sewing instructions
- 11. Information on Packages/ Envelope Style of dress (front and back view) Brand name of pattern Pattern number or catalogue number Size of pattern Accessories Number of patterns pieces Figure type
- 12. Information on Package/Envelope Suggesting fabrics to use Amount of fabrics needed for style Notions Style number Standard measurement Description of the garment
- 13. Information on Instruction Sheet ❑Pattern markings and their meanings ❑Layout and cutting out instructions ❑Diagrams to guide one in sewing ❑Suggested sewing techniques and their instructions ❑General sewing instructions
- 14. Some popular trade names for commercial patterns are; ❑ Simplicity ❑ Butterick ❑ Style ❑ McCalls ❑ Vogue ❑ Easy ❑ Burda
- 15. Advantages of Commercial patterns ❑ It saves time and energy. ❑ Patterns are available in different figures. ❑ Good patterns are accurate and therefore good fitting is likely to be achieved. ❑ If the instructions are carefully followed, a satisfactory garment can be made ❑ Pattern can be used by inexperienced dressmaker. ❑ It can be used for commercial purposes.
- 16. Disadvantages of commercial patterns ❑ They are expensive ❑ Not available in Ghana ❑ It cannot be used by those who cannot read and write ❑ You may not get your desired style
- 17. Drafting / Block Patterns It is a design process that involves taking measurement from the person’s body adding ease to these measurements and then transferring it onto paper by using ruler, scissors, tape measure, tracing wheel, etc. When accurate measurements are used, the pattern fits very well. Instructions are followed step by step in order to obtain the pattern. All pattern markings are put on the pattern to make the pieces meaningful. Block patterns consist of five parts;
- 18. ❑ Front Bodice ❑ Back Bodice, ❑ Front Skirt ❑ Back Skirt ❑ Sleeve
- 20. Advantages of drafting patterns ❑ It gives confidence ❑ It is economical in terms of fabric ❑ It increases ability to new things ❑ It can be kept for future use ❑ When done accurately the designer can obtain a good fit.
- 21. Disadvantages of drafting patterns ❑ It wastes time ❑ Its expensive ❑ The ability to cut freehand is lost ❑ It is difficult to work if one lacks the techniques
- 22. Draping / Modelling This method involves wrapping fabric around a dress form whiles creating the desired style. As the fabric is wrapped around the dress form, it is pinned in place and cut along proposed seam line. Once this process is completed the fabric is taken off and used as the pattern or transformed into paper pattern by using tracing wheel, pencil, ruler, scissors, tape measure, etc. It gives opportunity for creativity. This is usually used on figures that have some peculiar features like very heavy bust, small waist or very heavy hips. The fabric used is a test fabric which is usually called muslin. It is advisable that the muslin should have weight and structure similar to the final fashion fabric that will be used for the garment.
- 23. Advantages of Draping/ Modelling ❑ One can design with the individual figure in mind. ❑ It is the most suitable way for draped styles. ❑ It is easier to obtain a pattern in this form for difficult figures. E.g. hunch back and front, sloping shoulders. ❑ It is durable. ❑ Modelling is the easiest.
- 24. Disadvantages of Draping / Modelling ❑ It is very expensive. ❑ It is not good for beginners. ❑ It is slower than flat pattern. ❑ Large paper is needed for obtaining the pattern. ❑ It cannot be used when the wearer is far away.
- 26. Taking Patterns from Existing Garment (knock-off) It is taking pattern from an existing garment or article. It is used when you want to repeat the design. This is done by unpicking a dress and then placing it on a fabric after ironing it out and then cutting out. Most dress makers use this method to obtain a style they find difficult to cut out.
- 27. Advantages of taking patterns from Existing Garment ❑ It is inexpensive as compared to modelling ❑ Right style is obtained ❑ It saves time ❑ It is economical ❑ Old articles with interesting style can be obtained. ❑ Old garments are not wasted.
- 28. Disadvantages of taking patterns from Existing Garment ❑ The unpicked dress/article can be spoiled ❑ Pieces of the original or the existing garment can be misplaced. ❑ It is difficult to fix the parts to get the style sometimes
- 29. Flat Pattern It is a design process in which basic blocks are used to create a pattern for new styles. The sloper is traced then set aside. The trace copy is transferred into a new style using one or more pattern techniques. E.g. slashing and spreading, adding fullness, pivoting, contouring or curving. A sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines. From the sloper a myriad of garment styles can be generated.
- 30. Flat pattern technique is a method of manipulating the pattern while the pattern is laid flat on the table. Pattern manipulation is a common word applied to the act of slashing and spreading or pivoting a pattern section to alter its original shape. Dart plays an important role in the flat pattern technique, which are as follows; Pivot point: this method, darts can be moved from one point to another for this, a thick cardboard, which is firm and study, is required. Seam allowance is not added. Slashing and spreading method: in this method darts are shifted by cutting and spreading the pattern along the dart to the desired position. This is a relatively easy method provided the slashes are made correctly. Care is taken to see that the cuts are not made through the pivot point.
- 32. FREEHAND CUTTING It is technique for using individual’s body measurements to cut garments/ articles directly on fabrics. This cutting process is usually used by people with experience in garment cutting for desired styles.
- 33. Advantage of freehand cutting ❑ It is a fast method: the body measurements of the client are used directly to cut the desired design from the fabric and this saves a lot of time. ❑ It is easier to learn: there are few instructions in free-hand cutting so it easy to commit them in memory and use them to cut at any time. ❑ No cost is involved: there is no need to buy paper to make patterns and there is no need to buy commercial patterns too. ❑ There is no complicated drafting process ❑ It builds self confidence in dressmaking: being able to design, cut, and sew unique styles within short time. There are fewer mathematical problems.
- 34. Disadvantage of freehand cutting ❑ The fabric can easily be spoilt if one is not skilful: it demands a lot of skills to be able to cut out accurately. It is difficult to cut complicated styles with this method ❑ There is no record of used designs: since freehand cutting is done straight away on the fabric, no record of the design is available for reference. ❑ Fabrics may be wasted through lack of skills: if one is not alert and skilled, it is possible that he or she will cut wrongly and spoil the fabric Mistakes cannot be corrected.
- 35. Points to Consider When Choosing Patterns ❑ Money/cash at hand. ❑ Time available for sewing. ❑ The body measurement used. ❑ The style on the pattern envelope.
- 36. Pattern Markings and Labels and Their Meanings Pattern symbols are markings on pattern which guide cutting and assembling of articles. MEANING SYMBOL Lay to the fold Straight of grain Adjustment line Fitting line or seam allowance -------------------------
- 37. Notches or balance marks Cutting line Stitching line Darts
- 38. Centre or fold lines Pleats Gathers Button and buttonhole positions
- 39. Gavor et al. clothing and textiles for schools and colleges, Adwinsa Publications (GH) Ltd (2014), pg 140-146. Chris J. The complete book of sewing, Darling Kindersley Limited, London (2006) page 72-77 Modesta E. Gavor. Flat pattern Designing for Women, Adwinsa Publications (GH) Ltd (2011). Aldirich Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting. Blackwell Science Ltd U.K Helen Stanley, 1991, Flat pattern cutting and modeling fashion, U.K REFERENCE: