Introduction to textile testing presentation

Introduction
Submitted To: Dr. Habib Awais
Submitted By: Hafiz Usama ,Hamza, Hammad ,Ghayyas
Registration: 20-ntu-ba-1428,1550, 012-kc,1443
Course: Introduction to Textile testing and quality control
Semester : BSTMM 8th
Department: Textile Management and Marketing
2

Table of Content
•Fabric Fault or Defect
•Fabric Inspection
•American System (4 point system)
•Major & Minor Defects
•Woven Fabric Faults
•Knitted Fabric Faults
•Conclusion
•References
3

Fabric fault and Their Remedies
4
o Fault / Defect
o An imperfection that impairs worth or utility
o Want or absence of something necessary for completeness or
perfection
o A fault that spoils the material
o Fabric Defect
o A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders
its acceptability by the consumer

Fabric Inspection
5
”Activities such as Measuring, Examining, Testing, Gauging,
one or more characteristics of a product or source
comparing these with specific requirements to determine
conformity”
o Visual examination of fabric in relation to some
standards, specifications or requirement.
o The most commonly used systems for the fabric i.e.
American System (4 point system)

Fabric Inspection
6
o In inspection following points are checked,
o EPI
o PPI
o Width and Length of fabric
o GSM
o Weave design
o Types of Fabric Faults
o Major and Minor
o Mendable and non-mendable

American System (4 point system)
9
o Widely used for fabric inspection
Size of defect Points
Up to 3 inches 1
From 3 inches to 6 inches 2
From 6 inches to 9 inches 3
More than 9 inches 4
Hole up-to 1 inch 2
Hole over 1 inch 4

10 point system
• In this system, the fabric fault are identified with points on the
basis of the scale of 10. i.c. fabric will be rejected.
• In this system the maximum defect point is 10.
• According to this system. If the total defect points per 100 yards
of fabric are 100 or more the warp & weft direction faults are
separately inspected and assigned defect points.
10
10

Defect point Chart
Warp defect Penalty points
Up to 1“ 1 points
From 1" to 5” 3 points
From 5" to 10" 5 points
From 10” to 36" 10 points
Weft defect Penalty points
Up to 1” I points
From 1" to 5" 3 points
From 5" to full width 5 points
Full width 10 points
11

Some general rules for 10 points
• Not one meter of cloth is penalized more than 10 points.
• Any defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece is marked second.
• Combination of warp and weft defect running is one meter should
• not be penalized more than
• 10 points in the meter.
• Cloth is inspected on face side only unless specified.
12

Dallas system
• The Dallas system was introduced in the 1970s and it was
developed particularly for knitted fabrics. According to this
inspection method, if any fault was observed on a finished
garment
garment would he called ‘seconds. It describes the seconds as
more than one defect per ten linear yards, determined to the
nearest ten yards*. For example, one piece 60 yards long would
be allowed to have six defects.
• Disadvantage of Dallas system
• It increases the cost of production as defect is located after the
garment is finished
13

Major & Minor Defects
14
o Major Defects:-Those defects which are clearly
visible and may cause sample to be second.
o Minor Defects:-Those defects that are not clearly
visible and don’t cause the fabric to be a second.
o Second:-It is a defected fabric that affects the
salability and service ability of the sample/item.

Woven fabric faults
o Missing Pick
o Oil and other stain
o Oily ends
o Oily picks
o Reed mark
o Slough off
o Shuttle smash
o Snarls
o Stitches
o Untrimmed loose threads
o Weft bar
o Coloured flecks
o Knots
o Slub
o Broken ends woven in a bunch
o Broken pattern
o Double end
o Float
o Gout
o Hole, cut, or tear
o Lashing-In
o Local distortion
16

Coloured Flecks
17
o Presence of coloured foreign matter in
the yarn.
o Causes
o Cotton fibres getting contaminated during
the ginning stage with leaves, immature
fibre, yellow fibre, etc.
o Remedies
o Coloured portion is removed from the yarn
with a plucker.
o The resultant bare patch can be corrected
by combing with metallic comb.

Knots
18
o Knot is a fastening made by
tying together the ends of
yarn
o Causes
o Thread breaks during process of
winding, warping, sizing or
weaving.
o Remedies
o Non Mendable.

Slub
19
o A bunch of yarn having less twist
or no twist and has a wider
diameter compared to normal spun
yarn.
o Causes
o Improper carding/combing.
o Broken tooth in the chain of gear
system.
o Remedies
o The slub should be cut with the clipper
from both the ends. The resultant
bare patch can be corrected by
combing with a metallic comb or by
insertion of a separate thread with the
help of fine needle.

Broken pattern
20
o A broken pattern is the non continuity of a weave/ design/
pattern.
o Causes
o Wrong drawing in of threads.
o Incorrect shedding.
o Remedies
o Non Mendable.
o preventions
o Regular loom maintenance.
o Proper yarn selection
o Quality control checks

Broken Ends woven in a bunch
21
o This defect is caused by a bunch of
broken ends woven into the fabric.
o Causes
o Failure of the weaver in attending the warp
breaks properly.
o Remedies
o The broken ends woven in a bunch can be
removed by using a plucker and the
resulting loose ends should be cut with
clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs
and combing in both directions with a
metallic comb can fill this up.

Double end
22
o When two or more ends gets woven
as one. This defect is characterized
by a thick bar running parallel to the
warp.
oCauses
o Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald
eye.
o Remedies
o This fault can be corrected by pulling out
the extra end with the help of needle. A
bare patch is formed and can be filled by
combing in both directions with the help
of metallic comb.
o Preventions
o Proper Warp Handling
o Meticulous Drawing-in

Float
23
o Float is the improper interlacement
of warp and weft threads over a
certain area.
o Causes
o Improper sizing (ends sticking).
o Broken end entangling with the other
ends.
o Remedies
o Only minor floats can be rectified. The
floating threads are cut with a clipper .
Combing in both direction rectifies the
resultant patch.

Gout
24
o Gout is a foreign matter accidently
woven into the fabric.
o Causes
o Improper loom cleaning.
o Unclean environment.
o Remedies
o The extra foreign matter can be pulled
out with a plucker. Combing in both
direction rectifies the resultant patch.

Hole, Cut, Tear
25
o This is self explanatory.
o Causes
o Sharp edges on cloth roll.
o Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll
o Course temples used for fine fabric.
o During removal of hard particles like, Iron particles
woven in the cloth.
o Remedies
o Non mendable.
o Preventions
o Careful Handling
o Fabric Selection
o Proper Garment Construction

Missing Ends
26
o The fabric is characterised by a gap, parallel
to the warp. The number of ends missing may
be one or more.
o Causes
o Loom not equipped with warp stop motion.
o Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent
their dropping.
o In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are
dirty or corroded.
o Remedies
o When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the
fault can be rectified by combing in both directions
using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare patch
formed due to missing ends.

Missing Picks
27
o A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due
to absense of weft.
o Causes
o Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
o Faulty weft-stop motion.
o Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage for mending.
o Remedies
o When there are only two adjacent picks missing, the fault can be
rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb. This may fill
the bare patch formed due to missing ends.

Untrimmed Loose Threads
28
o Any hanging threads on the face of the
fabrics are termed as loose threads.
o Causes
o Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up.
o Remedies
o These defects can be easily rectified with
the help of clipper.

Weft Bar
29
o An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece
which differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric.
o Causes
o Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre.
o Faulty let-off and take-up motion.
o Remedies
o Non mendable

Shuttle Smash
30
o Ruptured cloth structure characterised by many
broken warp ends and floating picks.
o Causes
o Improper timing.
o Insufficient picking force.
o Slack ends in certain portion. The sagging ends obstructs
shuttle flight.
o Remedies
o Non mendable.
o Preventions
o Regular Loom Maintenance
o Proper Warp Tensioning
o Quality Shuttle Inspection

Lashing In
31
o An extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric
in the vicinity of the selvedge.
o Causes
o Defective setting of the shuttle box.
o Early or late picking.
o In case of auto loom, weft cutters worn out or
not set properly
o Remedies
o This defect can be corrected by pulling out the
extra pick from the selvedge end, which can be
clipped with the help of clipper. A bare patch is
formed and can be filled by combing in both
directions with the help of metalic comb.

Oily Ends
32
o These are oily warp ends.
o Causes
o Improper handling and storage of material in spinning
department.
o Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process
of warping.
o Improper handling of warp beams.
o Remedies
o Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an
absorbent pad. Apply the stain remover, wetting the
stain and surrounding portion throughly.
o Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain
remover.
o Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain
to avoid spreading.
o Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure,
otherwise, hole formation or displacement of the
fabric will occur.

Local Distortion
33
o A Distortion occurs when
there is displacement of warp
and/or weft threads from
their normal position.
o Causes
o The emery roll is worn out.
o In filament fabric having low
reed picks.
o Remedies
o This defect can be corrected by
combing in both directions using
a metalic comb.

Slough Off
34
o A slough-off is a bunch of weft woven
into the fabric.
o Causes
o Improper winding of the yarn onto the weft
pirn.
o Improper shape and size of the pirn.
o Harsh picking.
o Remedies
o The bulk yarn can be pulled out by means of
plucker. Combing in both direction with help
of mettalic comb can fill up the resultant
bare patch.

Shuttle Marks
35
o A width wise mark due to abrasion of warp yarn by
the shuttle.
o Causes
o Improper Shedding.
o Remedies
o Non Mendable.

Reed Marks
36
o A warp way crack caused by a damaged or defective
reed.
o Causes
o Defective or damaged reed
o Remedies
o Non Mendable.

Barrie
o A fabric defect characterized by
textural bands or colour bands in
the course direction of a weft
knitted fabric.
o Visible after dyeing
o Causes
o Use of irregular yarn having
higher long term irregularities.
o Using different count thread.
o Remedies
o Non Mendable.
38
o Preventions
o Regular Machine Maintenance
o Synchronized Machine Speeds:

Bunching Up
39
o Appeared as beads or irregular surface.
o This is largely influenced by take-up mechanism and whether
it functions properly or not.
o Causes
o Fabric take-up too weak.
o Thick place in yarn.
o Remedies
o Non-mendable
39
o Preventions
o Precise Tension Control
o Proper Knitting Techniques
o Regular Machine Maintenance
o Following Knitting Patterns

Drop Stitch
40
o Un-knitted stitch, Needle cast off the old loop with no new yarn in the hook.
o Local column of dropped stitches.
o Row of dropped stitches in a wale is called Run/Ladder (Continuous knitting with
broken needle)
o Causes
o Yarn guide not set properly (i.e. yarn is not fed properly during loop formation).
o Defective latch needle.
o yarn tension is not sufficient. High yarn tension
o Take-down is too high.
o Wrong yarn threading.
o Remedies
o This fault can be corrected by stitches
reforming using a simple needle.
o Can be avoided by:
o Precise yarn-guide setting.
o Needle change.
o Dial position readjustment. Use of fabric fault detector.
36

Cloth Fall-out
o It is an area of consisting of drop stitches lying adjacent to one an other.
o It occurs after drop stitches.
o Causes
o Group of 3 to 4 needles are defective.
o Yarn carrier is not set properly.
o Take-down is too high.
o Wrong yarn threading.
o Remedies
oThis fault can be corrected by stitches
reforming using a simple needle.
o Precise yarn-guide setting.
o Needle change.
o Use of fabric fault detector.
37

Holes or Crack
42
o Local holes obtained when yarn breaks during loop formation
in needle hook.
o (Large hole in the fabric is called Press-off, Needle get
stucked in flat bed machine)
o Causes
o Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct.
o Weak places in yarn, Which breaks during loop formation Knots.
o Yarn running tension is too high.
o Due to slub, thick and thin places
o High take –up tension
o Use of flat knots.
o Accurate yarn guide setting.
o Use of fabric fault detector. Use of yarn having lower hairiness
38

Horizontal stripes
o Are caused by unevenness in the courses. They traverse
horizontally and repeat themselves regularly or irregularly.
o Causes
o Yarn feeder set badly
o Differences in the yarn running-in tension.
o Jerky impulse from fabric take up .
o Remedies
o Non mendable.
43
o Preventions
o Maintaining Consistent Tension
o Using Consistent Needle Size

Vertical stripes
o They can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The
space between adjacent wales is irregular.
o Causes
o Bent needles.
o Heavily running needles.
o Damaged latch needle.
o Damaged needle hook.
o Damaged dial or cylinder.
o Needles and sinkers change after long time use.
44

Birds eye/UnwantedTuck stitch
o An unwanted knitted stitch that produces tuck or open
effect due to the needle having more than one stitch at a
time.
o Causes
o Bent needles.
o Damaged latch needle.
o Damaged needle hook.
oNeedle not raised properly for old loop
to cat off
oNeedles and sinkers change after
long time use.
41

Conclusion
In conclusion, the identification and resolution of fabric faults are critical steps
in ensuring the quality and longevity of textile products. By addressing issues
such as defects, imperfections, and damages promptly, manufacturers can
uphold customer satisfaction and preserve brand reputation. Implementing
effective remedies, such as quality control measures, repair techniques, and
preventive strategies, is essential in minimizing the occurrence and impact of
fabric faults. Ultimately, a commitment to continuous improvement and
proactive management of fabric quality is key to delivering superior products
that meet the expectations of consumers and contribute to the success of
textile businesses.
46

References
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZE-0Pma_G9o
• https://textilelearner.net/different-types-of-fabric-faults-causes/
• https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/08/fabric-inspection-in-textile-
and.html
• https://www.textilesphere.com/2019/10/fabric
• https://textileinformations.com/different-types-of-knit-fabric-faults/
• https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2019/02/classification-of-fabric-defects.html
• https://www.cottoninc.com/quality-products/textile-resources/fabric-defects-
classification/
• https://www.scribd.com/doc/109593209/Fabric-Defects
47

Introduction to textile testing presentation

Introduction to textile testing presentation

More Related Content

Similar to Introduction to textile testing presentation (20)

Recently uploaded (20)

Introduction to textile testing presentation