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Title: Cathedral Cities of France
Author: R. W. S. Herbert Marshall
Hester Marshall
Release date: August 1, 2012 [eBook #40390]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This ebook
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CATHEDRAL
CITIES OF FRANCE ***
36. Certain typographical errors have been
corrected (see list at the end of this etext.).
Except for a few normalizations, the
spelling of French words and names has
not been corrected, but left as the writer
wrote them.
LÂON, VIEW FROM THE PLAIN
CATHEDRAL CITIES
OF FRANCE
37. BY
HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S.
AND
HESTER MARSHALL
WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
BY HERBERT MARSHALL, R.W.S.
TORONTO
THE MUSSON BOOK CO., Limited
1907
COPYRIGHT, 1907, BY
DODD, MEAD & COMPANY
Published September, 1907
40. ILLUSTRATIONS
Lâon: view from the plain Frontispiece
St. Martin, Lâon Facing Page 2
The Quayside, Amiens " " 6
A Street in Perigueux " " 10
The Porte Gayole, Boulogne " " 16
Abbeville " " 24
The Place Vogel, Amiens " " 28
Evening on the Somme at Amiens " " 32
The Ramparts, Lâon " " 42
Lâon from the Boulevards " " 48
Rheims " " 54
Soissons " " 58
Rouen from the River " " 68
Rue de l’Horloge, Rouen " " 78
Rue St. Romain, Rouen " " 84
Evreux " " 90
The Towers of Evreux " " 96
St. Jacques, Lisieux " " 100
A Street Corner, Bayeux " " 110
Bayeux from the Meadows " " 122
St. LĂ´ " " 130
The Cathedral Front, St. LĂ´ " " 134
Coutances " " 140
The South Porch of the Cathedral, Coutances " " 146
St. Pierre, Coutances " " 152
Le Mans " " 158
Nôtre Dame de la Coûture, Le Mans " " 164
Angers " " 176
Tour de l’Horloge, Tours " " 184
42. A FRENCH CATHEDRAL CITY
HERE are in France to-day three distinct classes of cities—one
might even add, of cathedral cities—and as the bishopric is a dignity
far more usual in France than in England, “cathedral” may serve for
the present as a term inclusive of many towns.
Firstly, there is the town whose local importance has remained
unchanged through a succession of centuries and an eventful history, which
has added a modern importance to that bequeathed to it by Time. Such
towns are Le Mans, Angers, Amiens and Rouen. Secondly, we find the
towns whose glory has departed, but who still preserve the outward
semblance of that glory, though they remind us in passing through them of a
body without a spirit, of an empty house, whose inhabitants are long dead
and have left behind them only the echoes of their past footsteps. These
towns are a picturesque group, and if we go back upon the centuries, we
shall find in them the centre of much that has made history for our modern
eyes to read. Look at Chartres and Bayeux, and Lâon and Troyes, for
embodiments of this type. And lastly, there are the cities which exactly
reverse the foregoing state of affairs, and owe their growth to the kindly
fostering of a later age—an age which has learnt wisdom more quickly than
its predecessors, and has learnt, moreover, to love the whirr of engines and
the busy paths of commerce more than the safe keeping of ancient
monuments and the reading of history in the worn greyness of their stones.
Among these we may count Havre; but of this class it is more difficult to
find examples in France, although in England the north country is thick
with such mushroom cities.
43. ST. MARTIN, LÂON
The history of the growth of one Gaulish town may easily serve for that
of another: later days decided its continued importance or its gradual decay,
as the case might be; and, as Freeman points out in his essay upon French
and English towns, “the map of Roman Gaul survives, with but few and
those simple changes in the ecclesiastical map of France down to the great
Revolution.” Thus the history of these cities affected themselves alone and
not, to any great extent, the lands in which they stood. It is a salient
testimony to the lasting influence of ancient Gaul that in most town-names
some trace can be found of the old name, either of the tribe which inhabited
it, or of the territory belonging to that tribe; and even under the Roman rule
the Gallic forms did not entirely disappear. Later, when the Franks came
44. from the East, one would suppose that they had names of their own for the
conquered cities; but if this were the case, these names have not come down
to us—all of which goes to show that the Frankish dominion, though it
lasted on, and gave to the land her ablest dynasty of kings, had no real
rooted influence in the country, and that France, as relating to ancient Gaul,
is a formal and almost an empty title.
The Gallic cities owed their origin in the earliest times, naturally, to their
situation. The roving tribes, looking for a settlement, would choose a
camping ground either on a rocky hill, where they could safely entrench
themselves against a possible enemy, or on an island in the midst of a river
or marsh, where the surrounding fens would be an efficient safeguard; and
it speaks well for their choice, that when the Romans came, skilled in the
knowledge of war, offensive and defensive, they did not destroy the
settlements of the conquered tribes, but rebuilt and fortified them according
to the inimitable pattern of Rome, not effacing but improving what was
already to hand. Instead of the rude Gallic huts, stately palaces rose up, with
their marble baths; aqueducts threw a succession of arches to the nearest
water source, theatres sloped up the hill-side, bridges crossed the river, and
where the grottoes of the Druidic or other primitive faiths had been, rose the
columns and friezes of splendid temples to Jupiter and Diana and Apollo.
Certainly it was a change for the better; and the appearance of many of
these towns under the Cæsars was probably much more imposing, though
perhaps less picturesque, than that which they presented in mediæval days.
In the later Roman era a new element introduces itself. From the early
Christian Church at Rome come missionary saints; not saints in those days,
but often the poorest and meanest of the brethren, charged with a message
to Gaul—Hilary, Martin, Dionysius, and the others. Fierce conflicts follow,
persecutions, burnings, martyrdoms—Dionysius bears witness at Lutetia,
Savinian and Potentian at Sens—and at last the first church arises within the
city, poor and meagre very often in comparison with the huge pagan
temples which it replaces, but loved and venerated by the faithful few, and,
best of all, the origin of the grand cathedrals which are now the glory of
France. “The votaries of the new creed found a home within the walls of
their seats of worship such as the votaries of the elder creed had never
found within theirs. And around the church arose the dwellings of the
bishop and his clergy, a class of men destined to play no small part in the
history of the land.” In the Christian city, then, we can begin to trace the
46. THE QUAYSIDE, AMIENS
This power within itself was undoubtedly all to the advantage of the city;
but it was fatal to the unity of the kingdom, since it cut France up into a
mass of separate states, any one of which could, on the occasion of a
quarrel with the sovereign—and these quarrels were rather the rule than the
exception—fortify itself by means of its count, its castle and its city walls,
and defy the royal forces at its pleasure. While cathedral cities in England
were drawing closer and closer to the king as their head, and thereby
sinking their own strength in the unity of the Crown, those in France were
striving at a power apart from the Crown, or, rather, striving to maintain a
power which the Crown had never yet been able to incorporate with itself.
Thus a city of France has a much more varied, a much more individual
47. history than has the sister city in England; a story less bound up as part of
the great whole of the history of the French kingdom, more concentrated
within its own walls, and therefore more tangible, if it be desired to study it
irrespective of that whole history. This, then, is the story of its growth from
almost pre-historic days. Whether, as an individual city, it flourished after
the Middle Ages had fortified and strengthened it, or whether it fell into a
state of quiet, picturesque and peaceful decay, depended of course upon
particular circumstances, but enough remains to make of the general history
of the French city a fascinating though almost inexhaustible study, only
surpassed by the study of each town in its separate case.
A STREET IN PÉRIGUEUX
49. BOULOGNE TO AMIENS
OULOGNE is perhaps too near the starting point to arrest the
outward-bound traveller; he ranks it with Calais, Dieppe, and Havre,
as a place to be passed through as quickly as possible; and the
splendid train service to Paris naturally makes him hesitate to break his
journey at Boulogne. The general tendency in England is to despise the
French railway service, and some guide-books even now tell us that the
average speed of a French express is from thirty-five to forty-five miles an
hour, also that the trains invariably pass each other on the left-hand side. As
a matter of fact, all the main lines follow the same rule of the road which
obtains in England, and as to average speed, the run from Calais to Paris
equals, if it does not exceed, that of any long-distance train-service in our
own country, covering the distance of 185 miles at the rate of fifty-six miles
an hour.
As a seaport and fishing centre, Boulogne is one of the most interesting
and important towns in France; and its fishing-boats sail out in great
numbers to the North Sea for the cod fishery along the north coast of
Scotland. When the herring fishing begins, Boulogne adds its contingent to
the fleets of Cornwall, to the luggers of the West Coast, and to the cobbles
of Whitby; and on the eve of the departure to the fishing-ground, the
fisherman’s quarter, known as La Beurière, is alive with the orgies of its
sailor population. Dancing takes place on the quays, and short
entertainments are held in an improvised theatre, while the rich brown-
ochre sails of the splendid luggers and smacks are stretched from deck to
deck, forming an awning under which the owners and captains meet
together with their friends to wish success to the undertaking of those who
“go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters.”
Boulogne has the reputation of being the most Anglicised of French
towns, and was in years gone by often associated with the seamy side of
society. Many a stranger found here a convenient refuge, and Mr. Deuceace
50. and other of Thackeray’s heroes enjoyed the sea breezes of Boulogne after
the mental strain of somewhat questionable financial manœuvres.
THE PORTE GAYOLE, BOULOGNE
The city walls, restored in the sixteenth or seventeenth century, date back
to 1231, and were built on the foundations of the ancient town of Bononia,
generally identified with the Roman Gesoriacum, though not on very
reliable authority. From its position on the high grassy cliffs of Picardy,
guarding the little river Liane and looking out over the waves to the white
line of the English shore, Boulogne in other days had an importance quite
distinct from that which we now assign to it. The Viking sailing down the
English Channel saw it as one of the outposts of a new and fair land open to
52. Of the cathedral at Boulogne it is difficult to speak with any enthusiasm.
It stands as a memorial of the Renaissance work of that period which we
should call early Victorian; but like so many modern churches, it possesses
an ancient crypt, part of which belongs to the twelfth century, showing that
the foundations at least are those of a Gothic church, which was probably
destroyed during the Revolution.
On the journey to Amiens the train passes through Abbeville on the
Somme, a place some sixty years ago sacred to geologists, who, led by the
distinguished Boucher de Perthes, Prestwick and Evans, extracted from the
river bed and neighbouring peat and undisturbed gravels, not only remains
of beaver, bear, &c., but also innumerable hand-fashioned flints and stone
hatchets, and made the valley of the Somme up to Amiens and St. Acheul
classic ground to the antiquary and an object of pilgrimage to the student of
pre-historic man.
In the early days of the Frank kings this quiet little town upon the
Somme had acquired enough importance for fortification, and its city walls
were built by Hugh Capet. Later on, after Peter the Hermit had lifted up his
voice in Europe, and every man who called himself a true warrior turned his
face eastward to Palestine, Abbeville was destined to play her part in the
affairs of the great world outside her walls, and to share in the fortunes of
that company of men whose watchword was “Jerusalem.” In the first two
Crusades, when the crusading spirit was as yet ardent and pure and had not
degenerated into a desire for plunder and rapine, the leaders met within the
gates of Abbeville before setting out to the Holy Land.
One can well imagine the stir their presence made within the quiet
precincts of the little town, the excitement of the townfolk, the eager
crowding of the youth of the place around the standards of these great
chiefs, Godfrey de Bouillon, destined to become king of Jerusalem; dark,
passionate Robert of Normandy, son of the Conqueror; Hugh of
Vermandois, brother to the King of France; Stephen of Blois; Raymond of
Toulouse; Robert of Flanders, he who was called the “Sword and Lance of
the Christians”; and, lastly, Tancred the chivalrous, the very embodiment of
the spirit of the crusaders—and a “very perfect, gentle knight.”
For nearly two hundred years the English ruled Abbeville. When, in
1272, Eleanor of Castile was married to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward
I., the town was included in the estates which she brought to England as her
53. dowry; and being near the sea coast, and consequently within easy reach of
England, its new lords were able to retain their hold upon the city even after
the disastrous close of the Hundred Years’ War had given almost every
English conquest back to France. Towards the end of the fifteenth century it
fell into the hands of the Burgundian party, but the French crown finally
reclaimed it in 1477. Since that time it has twice seen an international
alliance concluded within its gates. In 1514, Anne of Brittany, the wife of
Louis XII.—“Pater Patria”—died without having an heir in the direct line,
and her husband, unwilling that the crown should go to François
d’Angoulême, determined to take another wife, and made advances to
Henry VIII. for the hand of his beautiful sister, Mary Tudor; and after the
negotiations were completed, they were married at Abbeville. As far as
Louis’s purpose went, however, the marriage was a failure, as the King died
a few months later, and the Duc d’Angoulême, his son-in-law, ascended his
throne as François Ier. To his reign belongs the second alliance in the history
of Abbeville, the pact signed between the King of France and Cardinal
Wolsey, on behalf of Henry VIII., against the common enemy, Charles V.—
a figure so commanding, so infinitely greater than his contemporaries, that
beside him the brilliancy of François, the gallantry of Henry, and the pomp
and magnificence of his favourite Wolsey, seemed entirely eclipsed, and the
three men appear almost as puppets, unstable and vacillating, now the
closest of friends, and now the bitterest of enemies.
Abbeville still maintains many of the old picturesque landmarks which
made it a favourite sketching ground for Prout and for Ruskin. The market-
place is surrounded by a number of houses with high pitched gables,
coloured in various tints of white, grey and pale green. Some beautiful
drawings by Ruskin, executed in pencil and tint, which have lately been
exhibited to the public, bear testimony to its picturesqueness, of which a
great deal still remains in the side streets and along the river front.
54. ABBEVILLE
The church of St. Wolfran is late Flamboyant, and is looked upon by
Ruskin as “a wonderful proof of the fearlessness of a living architecture,”
for, say what one will of it, that Flamboyant of France, however morbid,
was as vivid and intense in its imagination as ever any phase of mortal
mind. The nave consists of bays having a high clerestory and a triforium
screened by rich sixteenth century carving. The ribs of the vaulting fall
sheer down without imposts or break of any kind. The low chancel and
eastern termination of the church are unworthy of the splendid carving of
the western façade.
The approach to Amiens offers no coup d’œil of clustering towers or
spires such as an English or Norman cathedral city usually gives us, and the
55. Cathedral itself is hidden as we pass into the heart of the town along the
Rue des Trois Cailloux, a street which is said to follow the alignment of the
old city walls. Ruskin advises the traveller, however short his time may be,
to devote it, not to the contemplation of arches and piers and coloured glass,
but to the woodwork of the chancel, which he considers the most beautiful
carpenter’s work of the Flamboyant period. Note should be taken of two
windows in the Chapel of the Cardinal de la Grange, built about 1375.
These are very interesting as foreshadowing in their detail that style of
architecture—the Flamboyant—which obtained in France in the fifteenth
century and was contemporaneous with the English Perpendicular.
The two western towers look little more than heavily built buttresses,
and as towers are not very appropriate in design, being not square, but
oblong in plan. They rise little above the ridge line of the nave, whose
crossing with the transepts is marked by a beautiful flèche, which Ruskin,
however, describes as “merely the caprice of a village carpenter.” As he
further declares, the Cathedral of Amiens is “in dignity inferior to Chartres,
in sublimity to Beauvais, in decorative splendour to Rheims, and in
loveliness of figure sculpture to Bourges,” yet it fully deserves the name
given to it by Viollet-le-Duc—“The Parthenon of Gothic architecture.”
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