Shutter speed
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This document discusses shutter speed and its relationship to the exposure triangle of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. It explains that shutter speed is the length of time the camera sensor is exposed to light, and is usually measured in fractions of a second. For handheld shots, shutter speeds faster than 1/60 sec are recommended to avoid blur from camera shake. Slower shutter speeds require a tripod or image stabilization. The document also discusses how shutter speed, aperture, and ISO interact and provides examples of settings for different lighting conditions and effects like freezing or blurring motion.
Shutter speed
- 1. Night photography & Shutter speeds
- 2. Exposure Triangle The three things to get you away from the auto button… Shutter speed ISO Aperture
- 3. Shutter Speed is… shutter speed is ‘the amount of time that the shutter is open’. In film photography it was the length of time that the film was exposed in digital shutter speed is the length of time that your image sensor ‘sees’ the scene you’re attempting to capture.
- 4. Shutter speed is measured in seconds… or in most cases fractions of seconds. The bigger the denominator the faster the speed (ie 1/1000 is much faster than 1/30) 1/5000 of a second>
- 5. You’ll probably be using shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or faster This is because anything slower than is difficult to use getting camera shake. Camera shake is when your camera is moving while the shutter is open and results in blur in your photos.
- 6. Tripods If you’re using a slow shutter speed (anything slower than 1/60) you will need to either use a tripod or some some type of image stabilization (more and more cameras are coming with this built in).
- 7. Available speeds Shutter speeds available to you on your camera will usually double 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8
- 8. Some cameras also give you the option for very slow shutter speeds 1 second, 10 seconds, 30 seconds These are used in very low light situations, when you’re going after special effects and/or when you’re trying to capture a lot of movement in a shot). QuickTime™ and a decompressor are needed to see this picture.
- 9. how you’d like to capture that movement? f there is movement in your scene you have the choice of either freezing the movement (so it looks still) or letting the moving object intentionally blur (giving it a sense of movement).
- 10. Shutter Speed – Bringing it Together Remember that thinking about Shutter Speed in isolation from the other two elements of the Exposure Triangle (aperture and ISO) is not really a good idea. As you change shutter speed you’ll need to change one or both of the other elements to compensate for it.
- 11. Aperture & ISO For example if you speed up your shutter speed one stop (for example from 1/125th to 1/250th) you’re effectively letting half as much light into your camera. To compensate for this you’ll probably need to increase your aperture one stop (for example from f16 to f11). The other alternative would be to choose a faster ISO rating (you might want to move from ISO 100 to ISO 400 for example).
- 12. ISO The ISO of your film or sensor is a measure of how sensitive it is to light. “Normal” ISO, for taking shots outdoors on bright sunny days is 100. If you’re shooting indoors, or you’re shooting, say, sports and you want to use a high shutter speed, you may need to use a higher ISO (400 is common for sports photography).
- 13. Now go play with traffic Take 6 photos for your blog 4 at different speeds from fast to slow 1 with a static person or object against moving traffic on slow shutter showing the contrast 1 with deliberate shake