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Classification of Textile Fibers for Textile Engineers

K
KhSakibFarhad

The document provides a comprehensive classification of textile fibers, dividing them into natural and man-made fibers, detailing their sources, advantages, and disadvantages. It elaborates on various natural fibers such as cotton, flax, jute, coir, hemp, and animal fibers like wool and silk, highlighting their properties and uses. Additionally, it covers manufactured fibers, including regenerated and synthetic types, and discusses their production methods and characteristics.

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Classification of Textile Fibers: Natural Fibers: The main source of natural fibers is in nature and since these are available naturally, these are called natural fibers. The main sources are plants, animals and mineral etc. Textile Fibers Natural Fibers Man-Made Fibers Vegetable Mineral Animal Asbestos Glass Ceramic Silicate Carbon Bast Flax Jute Ramie Leaf Hemp Abaca Sisal Seed/Fruit Cotton Kopak Coir Silk Hair Wool Angora Mohair Camel Natural Polymer Synthetic Polymer Cellulosic Viscose Modal Polynosic Lyocell Diacetate Triacetate Carboxymethyl Polyester Polyolefin Polyethylene Polypropylene Polyurethane Non- Segmented Polyurethane Segmented Polyurethane (Elastane) Polyvinyl Derivatives Acrylic Modacrylic Chlorofiber Flourofiber Trivinyl Polystyrene Polyamides
Plant Fibers: Plant fibers are composed of cellulose and therefore are called natural cellulosic fibers. Let’s delve into the preparation of natural plant fibers. Cotton: Cotton is the most important natural cellulosic natural fiber. It accounts for about 50% of the total fiber production of the world. These are seen in “seed hair pods” or “bolls” growing in bushes and are normally cultivated in warm climates. Cotton fibers are “Environmentally Friendly” fibers that can be grown in a wide range of colors. Cotton fibers are the main Textile products of China, India, Iran, Pakistan, and Egypt. Cotton fabrics are made into a wide range of wearing apparel. Different species of cotton produce fibers of various average lengths. In the United States lengths of cotton staples are designed as follows: Extra long staple 1 3/8- 2 inches Long staple 1 1/8- 1 3/8 inches Medium staple 1- 1 1/8 inches Short staple 7/8- 1 inch Advantages:  The fabrics produced from cotton fibers are comfortable.  Cotton fibers have good water absorbency.  Fabrics produced from cotton fibers Dyes and Prints well.  Cotton fibers have good color retention properties.  Cotton fabrics are washable.  The Fiber bond of cotton fabrics is strong.  Cotton fabrics drape well.  Cotton fabrics are easy to handle and sew.  Cotton fabrics are inexpensive.  Cotton fabrics are cool in touch. Disadvantages:  Cotton fabrics shrink in hot water.  Cotton fabrics wrinkle easily.  Cotton fabrics are weakened by perspiration and sun.  Cotton fabrics and fibers burn easily.  Cotton fabrics and fibers are easily affected by mildew.  Normally attacked by silverfish insects in presence of starch.  Cotton has poor resiliency and recovery from deformation. Linen (Flax):
Flax is a Bast fiber used to manufacture linen textiles. Flax is the name of the fiber and Linen is the name of the fabric. It is derived from the stem of the annual plants, which grows in many temperate and subtropical areas of the world. It is the world’s oldest textile fiber which dates back to Stone Age 5000 years. This is a cellulosic fiber. Handkerchiefs, Towels, Sheets, Table Cloths, and certain garments are called “linens”. Advantages:  Flax fibers have a low elongation at break.  Wet flax fibers are 20% stronger than the dry fiber.  Fibers are fairly elastic.  Flax has good resistance to acids, bases and chemical bleaches.  Flax is resistant to insects and microorganisms.  Fibers have high moisture regain than cotton.  Flax fibers possess good heat conductivity.  Linen fabrics are cool in touch.  Linen Fabrics have good dimensional stability.  Flax is resistant to abrasion. Disadvantages:  Flax is a highly rigid fiber.  Flax fibers have poor resiliency.  Flax is a dull fiber.  Under severe moist conditions attacked by mildews.  Flax slowly degrades by sun light.  The methods used to produce flax involve extensive labor and cost. Jute: Jute fiber comes from a herbaceous annual plant. It is a long, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. The fibers are extracted from the plant stalk in a manner similar to flax. The fibers are off-white to brown and 1-4 meters long (3-12feet). Bangladesh is the world’s largest exporter of Jute. Jute is grown in the same land-water area as rice and is a very difficult crop to grow and harvest. Normally, jute tends to be brown in color but has a silk like luster. Other important jute export countries include India, China, Myanmar, Pakistan, Nepal, and Thailand.
Advantages:  Jute has great antistatic properties.  Jute has low thermal conductivity.  Jute fibers have good moisture regain property.  Jute fibers are biodegradable and so it is environment friendly.  Jute products are cheap in market.  Jute products can be used in Agricultural sector, Textile sector, Woven sector, Non-woven sector etc.  Jute fibers can be blended with natural and synthetic fibers. Disadvantage:  The crease resistance of jute is very low.  Drape property of jute is not good enough.  Create shade effects and becomes yellowish if sunlight is used.  If jute is wetted it loses its strength. Coir: Coir is a natural fiber extracted from the husk of cotton. Products such as rugs, floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses etc. are produced from Coir fibers. Technically, coir is the fibrous material found between the hard internal shell and outer coat of a coconut. Other uses of brown Coir (made from ripe coconut) are in upholstery padding, sacking, and horticulture. White Coir, harvested from unripe coconuts is used for making finger brushes, strings, ropes, and fishing nets.
Advantages:  Coir fibers are relatively water proof.  Coir fibers have strong resistance to salt water.  Coir fiber is strong.  Coir fibers have higher elongation at break.  Coir fiber products are of low cost. Disadvantages:  Coir fibers have low density.  Coir fibers exhibit lower tensile strength. Hemp: Hemp is a bast fiber harvested from hemp plants and processed in a manner similar to flax. It is a coarser fiber than flax. Hemp fiber has been widely used through history. Items ranging from rope to fabrics to industrial materials were made from hemp fibers. Hemp was often used to make sail canvas. Today modest hemp fabric industry exists and hemp fibers are used in making coarse fabric, sack material, canvas, ropes and twines. Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen. Advantages:  Hemp is a coarser fiber like flax.  Hemp fibers are strong.  Hemp fibers are durable.  Hemp fiber strands can reach up to 6 feet or longer.  Hemp fibers are resilient.  Hemp fibers are environmental friendly. Disadvantage:  Hemp fibers are darker in color and difficult to bleach.  Hemp fabrics are prone to wrinkle.  Hemp products are expensive. Ramie: Ramie is a bast fiber which means it is soft woody fibers obtained from stems of dicotyledonous plants. Ramie is often referred to a china grass. Ramie fiber is removed from the plant by peeling or removing the bark and soaking the fibers in water, followed by scraping. Ramie is a white fiber. Ramie is useful in industrial applications and its being used in furnishings where rough irregular fabrics are desired.
Advantages:  Ramie is one of the longest natural fibers.  Ramie fibers have good strength.  Ramie fibers have good luster.  Ramie fabrics do not shrink or lose its shape.  Ramie fabrics dry quickly. Disadvantages:  Ramie fibers have low elasticity.  Ramie fibers lack resiliency.  Ramie fabrics wrinkle easily. Sisal: Sisal is a perennial hardy plant, which unlike the other fibers is not a seasonal crop. It can establish and grow easily in all states of India covering sub humid to arid and semiarid regions, which cover major parts of India. Sisal fibers are used in making ropes, twines and various other products such as paper, cloth, footwear, hats, bags, carpets, geotextiles, and dartboards. Advantages:  Sisal carpets can be used for high-traffic areas like steps, hallways, and entryways.  Sisal fibers are durable.  Sisal fibers are strong fibers.  Sisal fibers are water-resistant.
 Sisal fibers are biodegradable and thus environmental friendly. Disadvantage:  Sisal fibers absorb air humidity, causing expansion and contraction products made from sisal fiber.  Sisal fibers are prone to microbial attack when wet.  Sisal fibers degrade when exposed to heat, light and ultraviolet radiation. Banana: Banana is a native plant of Southeast Asia and is now grown extensively in all tropical countries for fruit, fiber or foliage. Banana fibers are obtained mainly from the stem. The fibers obtained from central core are of lower quality compared to fibers obtained from the pseudo stems. Banana fibers have three qualities. It is used to make fancy items like bags, table mats, purses, banana fabrics etc. Advantages:  Banana fibers are strong and durable.  Banana fibers are soft and comfortable.  Banana fibers are environmentally friendly.  Banana fibers are of strong.  Banana fibers are water and UV resistant.  Banana fabrics are sustainable. Disadvantages:  The processing of Banana fiber is challenging.  Banana fibers have limited availability.  Banana fibers have less moisture absorbency.  Banana fibers have limited coloring options. Pina: Pina is a fiber made from the leaves of pineapples and is commonly used in Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The people there used to extract fiber from pineapple leaves and through hand spinning made a soft, sheer and a little stiff fabric called the Pina fabric. It’s regal and exotic.
Advantages:  Pina fibers have flexibility.  Pina fibers have density.  Pina fibers have fineness. Disadvantages:  Pina fibers have poor tensile strength. Animal Fibers: Animal fibers or Natural protein fibers are achieved from animal sources like hair or other secretion. Fibers include coverings or hairs from animals like Sheep, Mohair goat, Cashmere goat and Camel. Secretions are obtained from the larva or worm stage of the silkworm which spins the cocoon from which silk fibers are obtained and from the spider which spins fine fibers to make its web. There are some properties of hair fibers and secretions which are quite similar and on the other hand there are properties which are completely different. Wool: Wool is the protein fiber obtained from sheep or lambs. It is a highly crimped protein hair fiber. Among different types of wool fibers, worsted wool is of higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches). Wool fibers are perfect natural insulators. The term wool can apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of cashmere or angora goat. Also the hair fibers of camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna are included in this group. It is used in men’s and women’s apparel, outer wear and cold weather clothing, suits, blankets, felts, and carpeting.
Advantages:  Wool fibers are warm.  Wool fibers are of lightweight.  Wool fabrics are wrinkle-resistant.  Wool fibers have good water absorbency.  Wool fibers dye well.  Wool fabrics are comfortable.  Wool fabric is durable.  Wool fabric is more crease-resistant than other natural fibers.  Wool fabrics are easy to tailor.  Wool fibers are recyclable.  Wool fabrics possess high to moderate luster.  Wool fabrics have good drapability.  Wool fabrics have good stretch and recovery properties. Disadvantages:  Wool fibers are affected by moths.  Wool fabrics shrink with heat and moisture.  Wool fabrics need special care, dry cleaning.  Wool fabrics are scratchy on skin.  Wool fibers weaken when wet.  Wool fabrics are harmed by bleach, perspiration.  Wool fibers have low strength.  Causes yellowing of Wool fabric in presence of sunlight.  Wool fabrics are slow dried. Silk: Silk is a natural protein fiber extracted by moth larva Bombyx mori, better known as the common silkworm. Silk is a fine continuous mono filament fiber. These filaments are long, fine continuous threads. It can take as many as 500 cocoons to create one blouse. Silk is extensively used in luxury fabrics, apparel, home furnishing, and accessories such as scarf.
Advantages:  Silk fibers are soft.  Silk fabrics drape well.  Silk fabrics dye and print well.  Silk fibers are very strong.  Silk fibers are of lightweight.  Silk fibers resist soil, mildew and moths.  Silk fabrics are comfortable.  Silk fabrics are water absorbent. Disadvantages:  Silk fabrics are expensive.  Silk fabrics need special care, dry cleaning.  Silk fibers stain with water.  Silk fibers yellow with age.  Silk fibers weaken by perspiration, sun, soap.  Silk fabrics are attacked by insects, silverfish. Manufactured Fibers: Manufactured Fibers are fibers created by manufacturing process of any substance that is not a fiber. These are cellulosic from generated fibrous substance in plants. On the other hand non-cellulosic or synthetic from petrochemical products. Processes to develop man-made fibers are given below:  Raw material is first melted or dissolved to form thick syrup.  Then the liquid is extruded through spinneret.  Finally, extruded filaments are stretched and hardened into fibers. The Spinning process is done through three different spinning methods. 1. Wet spinning: Examples: Acrylic, Rayon, Spandex. 2. Dry Spinning: Examples: Acetate, Acrylic, Mod-Acrylic, Spandex, Triacetate, Vinyon.
3. Melt Spinning: Examples: Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran. Regenerated fibers: Regenerated fibers are artificial fibers transformed from plant cellulose into yarn. The resulting fiber is soft, even, and infinitely recyclable. Rayon: Rayon was the first man-made fiber to be produced commercially. Rayon was 1st manufactured by American Viscose Company. Rayon fibers were commercially used during World War 1 for industrial products. These are derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or vegetable matter. Rayon led to crepe, velvet, satin fabrics.
Advantages:  Rayon fabrics are soft and comfortable.  Rayon fabrics drape well.  Rayon fabrics are durable.  Rayon fibers are highly water absorbent.  Rayon fabrics dye and print well.  Rayon fabrics have no static or pilling problem.  Rayon fabrics are inexpensive.  Rayon fabrics have good colorfastness.  Rayon fabrics are washable. Disadvantage:  Rayon fabrics wrinkle easily unless treated.  Rayon fabrics have low resiliency.  Rayon fibers are heat sensitive.  Rayon fibers are susceptible to mildew.  Rayon fabrics stretch.  Rayon fabrics weaken when wet.  Rayon fabrics shrink when washed.  Rayon fabrics need dry cleaning. Acetate Rayon: Rayon can be produced from cellulose acetate yarn through a process called saponification. The rayon fibers produced from this process are called Acetate Rayon. Acetate Rayon was developed in the early 20th century. It was first commercially produced in 1924 by the Celanese Corporation. It is used to line coats and fabrics.
Advantages:  Acetate Rayon fabrics have luxurious appearance.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have crisp soft hand feel.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have wide range of colors.  Acetate Rayon fabrics drape well.  Acetate Rayon fabrics dye and print well.  Acetate Rayon fabrics resist shrinkage.  Acetate Rayon fabrics resist moths and mildew.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying.  Acetate Rayon fibers have no pilling, little static. Disadvantages:  Acetate Rayon fabrics require dry cleaning.  Acetate Rayon fibers are weak.  Acetate Rayon fibers are heat sensitive.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have poor abrasion resistance.  Acetate Rayon fibers dissolve by nail polish remover (acetone). Lyocell: Lyocell is the newest of the manufactured cellulosic fibers. Lyocell is defined as the cellulose fiber that is precipitated from organic solution in which no substitution of hydroxyl groups takes place and no chemical intermediates are formed. The trade name for Lyocell is Tencel. Lyocell is used to make Reusable woven materials, Fashion fabrics, Soft denims, Shirts etc. Advantages:  Lyocell fibers are absorbent.  Lyocell fibers are biodegradable.  Lyocell fibers are strong.  Lyocell fibers resist sunlight, aging, and abrasion. Disadvantage:  Lyocell fiber is susceptible to mildew.
Bamboo: Bamboo fibers are regenerated cellulose fibers. Bamboo fiber is 100% made from bamboos through hi-tech process. Bamboo is the fastest growing plant and takes only 3-4 years to reach maturity. Advantages:  Bamboo fibers are of high strength.  Bamboo fabrics are used in health care.  Bamboo fibers have anti-bacteria.  Bamboo fabrics have soft hand feel.  Bamboo fibers are anti-static.
 Bamboo fabrics are perfect for sensitive skin.  Bamboo fibers are perfect for moisture management. Disadvantages:  Bamboo fibers have poor spin ability.  Production is of high cost (30% to 40% higher than cotton) Corn: Trade name of the fiber produced from corn is Ingeo. Ingeo is the world’s first and only man-made fiber produced from 100% annually renewable resources such as Corn- not oil. Ingeo fibers combine the qualities of natural and synthetic fibers in a new way. Strength and resilience are balanced with comfort, softness and drape in textiles. In addition, ingeo fiber has good moisture management characteristics. This means ingeo fiber is ideally suited for fabrics to fashion to furnishing. Advantages:  Ingeo fabrics have good color fastness.  Ingeo fabrics are wrinkle free.  Ingeo fabrics have good resiliency.  Ingeo fabrics don’t shrink.  Ingeo fabrics don’t absorb odors.  Ingeo fabrics have excellent soil release and stain resistance.  Ingeo fibers have excellent performance compared to other fibers.  Ingeo fibers never cause allergic reactions.  Ingeo fibers have excellent UV resistance. Disadvantage:  Ingeo fabrics are too rigid and frail. Milk: Milk yarn is made from milk protein fibers. To produce milk yarn, milk is first dewatered which is water is first taken out of milk and then it is skimmed. New bio-engineering technique is then applied to make a protein spinning fluid. The fluid is suitable for wet spinning process through which final high grade textile fiber is made. There are several Milk casein based fibers such as Lanital, Fibrolane and Aralac.
Advantages:  Milk fibers are eco-friendly in nature.  Milk fibers can be considered as a green product.  Milk fibers are more compatible to human skin.  Milk fibers have sanitarian function.  Milk fabrics are comfortable.  Milk fabrics have excellent water transportation and air permeability. Disadvantages:  Milk fabrics get wrinkle easily after washing.  Milk fabrics should not be washed in machine as it is not a very hard fiber.  Milk fabrics have low durability.  Milk fabrics are expensive. Synthetic Fibers: Synthetic fibers are non-cellulosic or synthetic from petrochemical products. This can also be said that Synthetic fibers are prepared from chemical synthesis process. Polyester: Polyester fibers are formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain at least 85% of ester of a diol and terepthalic acid. It is known as “big mixer” as it creates the most successful fiber blend and is famous for retaining fiber property after blending. Polyester was developed in the 1950s by DuPont. Advantages:  Polyester fibers are strong.  Polyester fibers are crisp, but polyester fabric has soft hand feel.  Polyester fabrics resist stretching and shrinkage.
 Polyester fabrics are washable or dry-cleanable.  Polyester fabrics dry quickly.  Polyester fabrics are resilient, resist wrinkles.  Polyester fabrics resist abrasion.  Polyester fibers are resistant to most chemicals.  Polyester fibers have good colorfastness.  Polyester fabrics are durable.  Polyester fibers dye well. Disadvantages:  Polyester fibers have low absorbency.  Polyester fibers have static and pilling problem. Nylon: Polyamide or Nylon fiber is formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain the recurring amide functional group. Nylon was invented in 1938 by DuPont. It was made completely from petrochemicals in an experimental laboratory. Advantages:  Nylon fibers are lightweight.  Nylon fibers have exceptional strength.  Nylon fabrics are abrasion resistant.  Nylon fabrics are easy to wash.  Nylon fabrics resist shrinkage and wrinkles.  Nylon fabrics are resilient, pleat retentive.  Nylon fabrics dry fast and have low moisture absorbency.  Nylon fibers can be pre-colored or dyed.  Nylon fabrics resist damage from oil and other chemicals.  Nylon fabrics have insulating properties. Disadvantages:  Nylon fibers cause static and pilling.  Nylon fibers have poor resistance to sunlight.  Nylon fibers have low absorbency.  Nylon fabrics pick up oils and dye in wash.  Nylon fibers are heat sensitive. Acrylic: Acrylic fiber is formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85% (by mass) in the chain of acrylinitrilic pattern. Acrylic fiber was manufactured in the 1950s by DuPont. Originally, Acrylic was used to manufacture blankets and sweaters as it resembled wool.
Advantages:  Acrylic fibers are lightweight, soft, warm, wool-like hand feel.  Acrylic fibers dye to bright colors.  Acrylic fabrics are machine washable, quick drying.  Acrylic fabrics are resilient, retain shape, resist shrinkage and wrinkles.  Acrylic fabrics have wool-like, cotton-like blended appearance.  Acrylic fabrics have excellent pleat retention.  Acrylic fabrics resist moths, oil and chemicals. Disadvantages:  Acrylic fabrics have low absorbency.  Acrylic fibers develop static.  Acrylic fibers cause pilling.  Acrylic fibers are heat sensitive.  Acrylic fibers are weak.  Acrylic fibers can be dissolved by nail polish remover. (acetone) Spandex: Spandex or elastane is a elastofiber composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length. Spandex was developed in 1959 by DuPont. Advantages:  Spandex fibers are lightweight.  Spandex retains its original shape.  Spandex fabrics are abrasion resistant.  Spandex fibers are stronger than rubber.  Spandex fabrics are soft, smooth, and supple.  Spandex fabrics resist body oils, perspiration, lotions, detergents.
 Spandex fibers cause no static, pilling. Disadvantage:  Spandex fibers yellow with age.  Spandex fibers are heat sensitive.  Spandex fibers are harmed by chlorine bleach.  Spandex fibers are non absorbent. Microfiber: Microfibers are ultra-fine fibers. Denier is the unit of measurement used to find the thickness of diameter of the fibers. Microfibers are the newest trend in fashion. It was 1st developed by DuPont in 1989. Advantages:  Microfibers are extremely drapeable.  Microfibers have very soft, luxurious hand feel.  Microfibers are washable or dry cleanable.  Microfibers are shrink-resistant.  Microfibers are strong.  Microfibers insulate against rain, cold and wind. Disadvantage:  Microfibers are heat sensitive. Kevlar and Nomex: Kevlar and Nomex are strong, heat resistant, synthetic fibers. These were developed by DuPont in 1965. Kevlar is used for making Bullet Proof Vests and Cut/Heat/Chemical resistant gloves. Nomex is used for making Fireman Uniforms, Racing Apparel.
Advantages:  Exceptional Strength.  Exceptional heat and flame resistance.  Resistant to stretch and abrasion. Disadvantages: 1. Not absorbent.

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Classification of Textile Fibers for Textile Engineers

  • 1. Classification of Textile Fibers: Natural Fibers: The main source of natural fibers is in nature and since these are available naturally, these are called natural fibers. The main sources are plants, animals and mineral etc. Textile Fibers Natural Fibers Man-Made Fibers Vegetable Mineral Animal Asbestos Glass Ceramic Silicate Carbon Bast Flax Jute Ramie Leaf Hemp Abaca Sisal Seed/Fruit Cotton Kopak Coir Silk Hair Wool Angora Mohair Camel Natural Polymer Synthetic Polymer Cellulosic Viscose Modal Polynosic Lyocell Diacetate Triacetate Carboxymethyl Polyester Polyolefin Polyethylene Polypropylene Polyurethane Non- Segmented Polyurethane Segmented Polyurethane (Elastane) Polyvinyl Derivatives Acrylic Modacrylic Chlorofiber Flourofiber Trivinyl Polystyrene Polyamides
  • 2. Plant Fibers: Plant fibers are composed of cellulose and therefore are called natural cellulosic fibers. Let’s delve into the preparation of natural plant fibers. Cotton: Cotton is the most important natural cellulosic natural fiber. It accounts for about 50% of the total fiber production of the world. These are seen in “seed hair pods” or “bolls” growing in bushes and are normally cultivated in warm climates. Cotton fibers are “Environmentally Friendly” fibers that can be grown in a wide range of colors. Cotton fibers are the main Textile products of China, India, Iran, Pakistan, and Egypt. Cotton fabrics are made into a wide range of wearing apparel. Different species of cotton produce fibers of various average lengths. In the United States lengths of cotton staples are designed as follows: Extra long staple 1 3/8- 2 inches Long staple 1 1/8- 1 3/8 inches Medium staple 1- 1 1/8 inches Short staple 7/8- 1 inch Advantages:  The fabrics produced from cotton fibers are comfortable.  Cotton fibers have good water absorbency.  Fabrics produced from cotton fibers Dyes and Prints well.  Cotton fibers have good color retention properties.  Cotton fabrics are washable.  The Fiber bond of cotton fabrics is strong.  Cotton fabrics drape well.  Cotton fabrics are easy to handle and sew.  Cotton fabrics are inexpensive.  Cotton fabrics are cool in touch. Disadvantages:  Cotton fabrics shrink in hot water.  Cotton fabrics wrinkle easily.  Cotton fabrics are weakened by perspiration and sun.  Cotton fabrics and fibers burn easily.  Cotton fabrics and fibers are easily affected by mildew.  Normally attacked by silverfish insects in presence of starch.  Cotton has poor resiliency and recovery from deformation. Linen (Flax):
  • 3. Flax is a Bast fiber used to manufacture linen textiles. Flax is the name of the fiber and Linen is the name of the fabric. It is derived from the stem of the annual plants, which grows in many temperate and subtropical areas of the world. It is the world’s oldest textile fiber which dates back to Stone Age 5000 years. This is a cellulosic fiber. Handkerchiefs, Towels, Sheets, Table Cloths, and certain garments are called “linens”. Advantages:  Flax fibers have a low elongation at break.  Wet flax fibers are 20% stronger than the dry fiber.  Fibers are fairly elastic.  Flax has good resistance to acids, bases and chemical bleaches.  Flax is resistant to insects and microorganisms.  Fibers have high moisture regain than cotton.  Flax fibers possess good heat conductivity.  Linen fabrics are cool in touch.  Linen Fabrics have good dimensional stability.  Flax is resistant to abrasion. Disadvantages:  Flax is a highly rigid fiber.  Flax fibers have poor resiliency.  Flax is a dull fiber.  Under severe moist conditions attacked by mildews.  Flax slowly degrades by sun light.  The methods used to produce flax involve extensive labor and cost. Jute: Jute fiber comes from a herbaceous annual plant. It is a long, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. The fibers are extracted from the plant stalk in a manner similar to flax. The fibers are off-white to brown and 1-4 meters long (3-12feet). Bangladesh is the world’s largest exporter of Jute. Jute is grown in the same land-water area as rice and is a very difficult crop to grow and harvest. Normally, jute tends to be brown in color but has a silk like luster. Other important jute export countries include India, China, Myanmar, Pakistan, Nepal, and Thailand.
  • 4. Advantages:  Jute has great antistatic properties.  Jute has low thermal conductivity.  Jute fibers have good moisture regain property.  Jute fibers are biodegradable and so it is environment friendly.  Jute products are cheap in market.  Jute products can be used in Agricultural sector, Textile sector, Woven sector, Non-woven sector etc.  Jute fibers can be blended with natural and synthetic fibers. Disadvantage:  The crease resistance of jute is very low.  Drape property of jute is not good enough.  Create shade effects and becomes yellowish if sunlight is used.  If jute is wetted it loses its strength. Coir: Coir is a natural fiber extracted from the husk of cotton. Products such as rugs, floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses etc. are produced from Coir fibers. Technically, coir is the fibrous material found between the hard internal shell and outer coat of a coconut. Other uses of brown Coir (made from ripe coconut) are in upholstery padding, sacking, and horticulture. White Coir, harvested from unripe coconuts is used for making finger brushes, strings, ropes, and fishing nets.
  • 5. Advantages:  Coir fibers are relatively water proof.  Coir fibers have strong resistance to salt water.  Coir fiber is strong.  Coir fibers have higher elongation at break.  Coir fiber products are of low cost. Disadvantages:  Coir fibers have low density.  Coir fibers exhibit lower tensile strength. Hemp: Hemp is a bast fiber harvested from hemp plants and processed in a manner similar to flax. It is a coarser fiber than flax. Hemp fiber has been widely used through history. Items ranging from rope to fabrics to industrial materials were made from hemp fibers. Hemp was often used to make sail canvas. Today modest hemp fabric industry exists and hemp fibers are used in making coarse fabric, sack material, canvas, ropes and twines. Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen. Advantages:  Hemp is a coarser fiber like flax.  Hemp fibers are strong.  Hemp fibers are durable.  Hemp fiber strands can reach up to 6 feet or longer.  Hemp fibers are resilient.  Hemp fibers are environmental friendly. Disadvantage:  Hemp fibers are darker in color and difficult to bleach.  Hemp fabrics are prone to wrinkle.  Hemp products are expensive. Ramie: Ramie is a bast fiber which means it is soft woody fibers obtained from stems of dicotyledonous plants. Ramie is often referred to a china grass. Ramie fiber is removed from the plant by peeling or removing the bark and soaking the fibers in water, followed by scraping. Ramie is a white fiber. Ramie is useful in industrial applications and its being used in furnishings where rough irregular fabrics are desired.
  • 6. Advantages:  Ramie is one of the longest natural fibers.  Ramie fibers have good strength.  Ramie fibers have good luster.  Ramie fabrics do not shrink or lose its shape.  Ramie fabrics dry quickly. Disadvantages:  Ramie fibers have low elasticity.  Ramie fibers lack resiliency.  Ramie fabrics wrinkle easily. Sisal: Sisal is a perennial hardy plant, which unlike the other fibers is not a seasonal crop. It can establish and grow easily in all states of India covering sub humid to arid and semiarid regions, which cover major parts of India. Sisal fibers are used in making ropes, twines and various other products such as paper, cloth, footwear, hats, bags, carpets, geotextiles, and dartboards. Advantages:  Sisal carpets can be used for high-traffic areas like steps, hallways, and entryways.  Sisal fibers are durable.  Sisal fibers are strong fibers.  Sisal fibers are water-resistant.
  • 7.  Sisal fibers are biodegradable and thus environmental friendly. Disadvantage:  Sisal fibers absorb air humidity, causing expansion and contraction products made from sisal fiber.  Sisal fibers are prone to microbial attack when wet.  Sisal fibers degrade when exposed to heat, light and ultraviolet radiation. Banana: Banana is a native plant of Southeast Asia and is now grown extensively in all tropical countries for fruit, fiber or foliage. Banana fibers are obtained mainly from the stem. The fibers obtained from central core are of lower quality compared to fibers obtained from the pseudo stems. Banana fibers have three qualities. It is used to make fancy items like bags, table mats, purses, banana fabrics etc. Advantages:  Banana fibers are strong and durable.  Banana fibers are soft and comfortable.  Banana fibers are environmentally friendly.  Banana fibers are of strong.  Banana fibers are water and UV resistant.  Banana fabrics are sustainable. Disadvantages:  The processing of Banana fiber is challenging.  Banana fibers have limited availability.  Banana fibers have less moisture absorbency.  Banana fibers have limited coloring options. Pina: Pina is a fiber made from the leaves of pineapples and is commonly used in Philippines. It is sometimes combined with silk or polyester to create a textile fabric. The people there used to extract fiber from pineapple leaves and through hand spinning made a soft, sheer and a little stiff fabric called the Pina fabric. It’s regal and exotic.
  • 8. Advantages:  Pina fibers have flexibility.  Pina fibers have density.  Pina fibers have fineness. Disadvantages:  Pina fibers have poor tensile strength. Animal Fibers: Animal fibers or Natural protein fibers are achieved from animal sources like hair or other secretion. Fibers include coverings or hairs from animals like Sheep, Mohair goat, Cashmere goat and Camel. Secretions are obtained from the larva or worm stage of the silkworm which spins the cocoon from which silk fibers are obtained and from the spider which spins fine fibers to make its web. There are some properties of hair fibers and secretions which are quite similar and on the other hand there are properties which are completely different. Wool: Wool is the protein fiber obtained from sheep or lambs. It is a highly crimped protein hair fiber. Among different types of wool fibers, worsted wool is of higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches). Wool fibers are perfect natural insulators. The term wool can apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of cashmere or angora goat. Also the hair fibers of camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna are included in this group. It is used in men’s and women’s apparel, outer wear and cold weather clothing, suits, blankets, felts, and carpeting.
  • 9. Advantages:  Wool fibers are warm.  Wool fibers are of lightweight.  Wool fabrics are wrinkle-resistant.  Wool fibers have good water absorbency.  Wool fibers dye well.  Wool fabrics are comfortable.  Wool fabric is durable.  Wool fabric is more crease-resistant than other natural fibers.  Wool fabrics are easy to tailor.  Wool fibers are recyclable.  Wool fabrics possess high to moderate luster.  Wool fabrics have good drapability.  Wool fabrics have good stretch and recovery properties. Disadvantages:  Wool fibers are affected by moths.  Wool fabrics shrink with heat and moisture.  Wool fabrics need special care, dry cleaning.  Wool fabrics are scratchy on skin.  Wool fibers weaken when wet.  Wool fabrics are harmed by bleach, perspiration.  Wool fibers have low strength.  Causes yellowing of Wool fabric in presence of sunlight.  Wool fabrics are slow dried. Silk: Silk is a natural protein fiber extracted by moth larva Bombyx mori, better known as the common silkworm. Silk is a fine continuous mono filament fiber. These filaments are long, fine continuous threads. It can take as many as 500 cocoons to create one blouse. Silk is extensively used in luxury fabrics, apparel, home furnishing, and accessories such as scarf.
  • 10. Advantages:  Silk fibers are soft.  Silk fabrics drape well.  Silk fabrics dye and print well.  Silk fibers are very strong.  Silk fibers are of lightweight.  Silk fibers resist soil, mildew and moths.  Silk fabrics are comfortable.  Silk fabrics are water absorbent. Disadvantages:  Silk fabrics are expensive.  Silk fabrics need special care, dry cleaning.  Silk fibers stain with water.  Silk fibers yellow with age.  Silk fibers weaken by perspiration, sun, soap.  Silk fabrics are attacked by insects, silverfish. Manufactured Fibers: Manufactured Fibers are fibers created by manufacturing process of any substance that is not a fiber. These are cellulosic from generated fibrous substance in plants. On the other hand non-cellulosic or synthetic from petrochemical products. Processes to develop man-made fibers are given below:  Raw material is first melted or dissolved to form thick syrup.  Then the liquid is extruded through spinneret.  Finally, extruded filaments are stretched and hardened into fibers. The Spinning process is done through three different spinning methods. 1. Wet spinning: Examples: Acrylic, Rayon, Spandex. 2. Dry Spinning: Examples: Acetate, Acrylic, Mod-Acrylic, Spandex, Triacetate, Vinyon.
  • 11. 3. Melt Spinning: Examples: Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran. Regenerated fibers: Regenerated fibers are artificial fibers transformed from plant cellulose into yarn. The resulting fiber is soft, even, and infinitely recyclable. Rayon: Rayon was the first man-made fiber to be produced commercially. Rayon was 1st manufactured by American Viscose Company. Rayon fibers were commercially used during World War 1 for industrial products. These are derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or vegetable matter. Rayon led to crepe, velvet, satin fabrics.
  • 12. Advantages:  Rayon fabrics are soft and comfortable.  Rayon fabrics drape well.  Rayon fabrics are durable.  Rayon fibers are highly water absorbent.  Rayon fabrics dye and print well.  Rayon fabrics have no static or pilling problem.  Rayon fabrics are inexpensive.  Rayon fabrics have good colorfastness.  Rayon fabrics are washable. Disadvantage:  Rayon fabrics wrinkle easily unless treated.  Rayon fabrics have low resiliency.  Rayon fibers are heat sensitive.  Rayon fibers are susceptible to mildew.  Rayon fabrics stretch.  Rayon fabrics weaken when wet.  Rayon fabrics shrink when washed.  Rayon fabrics need dry cleaning. Acetate Rayon: Rayon can be produced from cellulose acetate yarn through a process called saponification. The rayon fibers produced from this process are called Acetate Rayon. Acetate Rayon was developed in the early 20th century. It was first commercially produced in 1924 by the Celanese Corporation. It is used to line coats and fabrics.
  • 13. Advantages:  Acetate Rayon fabrics have luxurious appearance.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have crisp soft hand feel.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have wide range of colors.  Acetate Rayon fabrics drape well.  Acetate Rayon fabrics dye and print well.  Acetate Rayon fabrics resist shrinkage.  Acetate Rayon fabrics resist moths and mildew.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying.  Acetate Rayon fibers have no pilling, little static. Disadvantages:  Acetate Rayon fabrics require dry cleaning.  Acetate Rayon fibers are weak.  Acetate Rayon fibers are heat sensitive.  Acetate Rayon fabrics have poor abrasion resistance.  Acetate Rayon fibers dissolve by nail polish remover (acetone). Lyocell: Lyocell is the newest of the manufactured cellulosic fibers. Lyocell is defined as the cellulose fiber that is precipitated from organic solution in which no substitution of hydroxyl groups takes place and no chemical intermediates are formed. The trade name for Lyocell is Tencel. Lyocell is used to make Reusable woven materials, Fashion fabrics, Soft denims, Shirts etc. Advantages:  Lyocell fibers are absorbent.  Lyocell fibers are biodegradable.  Lyocell fibers are strong.  Lyocell fibers resist sunlight, aging, and abrasion. Disadvantage:  Lyocell fiber is susceptible to mildew.
  • 14. Bamboo: Bamboo fibers are regenerated cellulose fibers. Bamboo fiber is 100% made from bamboos through hi-tech process. Bamboo is the fastest growing plant and takes only 3-4 years to reach maturity. Advantages:  Bamboo fibers are of high strength.  Bamboo fabrics are used in health care.  Bamboo fibers have anti-bacteria.  Bamboo fabrics have soft hand feel.  Bamboo fibers are anti-static.
  • 15.  Bamboo fabrics are perfect for sensitive skin.  Bamboo fibers are perfect for moisture management. Disadvantages:  Bamboo fibers have poor spin ability.  Production is of high cost (30% to 40% higher than cotton) Corn: Trade name of the fiber produced from corn is Ingeo. Ingeo is the world’s first and only man-made fiber produced from 100% annually renewable resources such as Corn- not oil. Ingeo fibers combine the qualities of natural and synthetic fibers in a new way. Strength and resilience are balanced with comfort, softness and drape in textiles. In addition, ingeo fiber has good moisture management characteristics. This means ingeo fiber is ideally suited for fabrics to fashion to furnishing. Advantages:  Ingeo fabrics have good color fastness.  Ingeo fabrics are wrinkle free.  Ingeo fabrics have good resiliency.  Ingeo fabrics don’t shrink.  Ingeo fabrics don’t absorb odors.  Ingeo fabrics have excellent soil release and stain resistance.  Ingeo fibers have excellent performance compared to other fibers.  Ingeo fibers never cause allergic reactions.  Ingeo fibers have excellent UV resistance. Disadvantage:  Ingeo fabrics are too rigid and frail. Milk: Milk yarn is made from milk protein fibers. To produce milk yarn, milk is first dewatered which is water is first taken out of milk and then it is skimmed. New bio-engineering technique is then applied to make a protein spinning fluid. The fluid is suitable for wet spinning process through which final high grade textile fiber is made. There are several Milk casein based fibers such as Lanital, Fibrolane and Aralac.
  • 16. Advantages:  Milk fibers are eco-friendly in nature.  Milk fibers can be considered as a green product.  Milk fibers are more compatible to human skin.  Milk fibers have sanitarian function.  Milk fabrics are comfortable.  Milk fabrics have excellent water transportation and air permeability. Disadvantages:  Milk fabrics get wrinkle easily after washing.  Milk fabrics should not be washed in machine as it is not a very hard fiber.  Milk fabrics have low durability.  Milk fabrics are expensive. Synthetic Fibers: Synthetic fibers are non-cellulosic or synthetic from petrochemical products. This can also be said that Synthetic fibers are prepared from chemical synthesis process. Polyester: Polyester fibers are formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain at least 85% of ester of a diol and terepthalic acid. It is known as “big mixer” as it creates the most successful fiber blend and is famous for retaining fiber property after blending. Polyester was developed in the 1950s by DuPont. Advantages:  Polyester fibers are strong.  Polyester fibers are crisp, but polyester fabric has soft hand feel.  Polyester fabrics resist stretching and shrinkage.
  • 17.  Polyester fabrics are washable or dry-cleanable.  Polyester fabrics dry quickly.  Polyester fabrics are resilient, resist wrinkles.  Polyester fabrics resist abrasion.  Polyester fibers are resistant to most chemicals.  Polyester fibers have good colorfastness.  Polyester fabrics are durable.  Polyester fibers dye well. Disadvantages:  Polyester fibers have low absorbency.  Polyester fibers have static and pilling problem. Nylon: Polyamide or Nylon fiber is formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain the recurring amide functional group. Nylon was invented in 1938 by DuPont. It was made completely from petrochemicals in an experimental laboratory. Advantages:  Nylon fibers are lightweight.  Nylon fibers have exceptional strength.  Nylon fabrics are abrasion resistant.  Nylon fabrics are easy to wash.  Nylon fabrics resist shrinkage and wrinkles.  Nylon fabrics are resilient, pleat retentive.  Nylon fabrics dry fast and have low moisture absorbency.  Nylon fibers can be pre-colored or dyed.  Nylon fabrics resist damage from oil and other chemicals.  Nylon fabrics have insulating properties. Disadvantages:  Nylon fibers cause static and pilling.  Nylon fibers have poor resistance to sunlight.  Nylon fibers have low absorbency.  Nylon fabrics pick up oils and dye in wash.  Nylon fibers are heat sensitive. Acrylic: Acrylic fiber is formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85% (by mass) in the chain of acrylinitrilic pattern. Acrylic fiber was manufactured in the 1950s by DuPont. Originally, Acrylic was used to manufacture blankets and sweaters as it resembled wool.
  • 18. Advantages:  Acrylic fibers are lightweight, soft, warm, wool-like hand feel.  Acrylic fibers dye to bright colors.  Acrylic fabrics are machine washable, quick drying.  Acrylic fabrics are resilient, retain shape, resist shrinkage and wrinkles.  Acrylic fabrics have wool-like, cotton-like blended appearance.  Acrylic fabrics have excellent pleat retention.  Acrylic fabrics resist moths, oil and chemicals. Disadvantages:  Acrylic fabrics have low absorbency.  Acrylic fibers develop static.  Acrylic fibers cause pilling.  Acrylic fibers are heat sensitive.  Acrylic fibers are weak.  Acrylic fibers can be dissolved by nail polish remover. (acetone) Spandex: Spandex or elastane is a elastofiber composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length. Spandex was developed in 1959 by DuPont. Advantages:  Spandex fibers are lightweight.  Spandex retains its original shape.  Spandex fabrics are abrasion resistant.  Spandex fibers are stronger than rubber.  Spandex fabrics are soft, smooth, and supple.  Spandex fabrics resist body oils, perspiration, lotions, detergents.
  • 19.  Spandex fibers cause no static, pilling. Disadvantage:  Spandex fibers yellow with age.  Spandex fibers are heat sensitive.  Spandex fibers are harmed by chlorine bleach.  Spandex fibers are non absorbent. Microfiber: Microfibers are ultra-fine fibers. Denier is the unit of measurement used to find the thickness of diameter of the fibers. Microfibers are the newest trend in fashion. It was 1st developed by DuPont in 1989. Advantages:  Microfibers are extremely drapeable.  Microfibers have very soft, luxurious hand feel.  Microfibers are washable or dry cleanable.  Microfibers are shrink-resistant.  Microfibers are strong.  Microfibers insulate against rain, cold and wind. Disadvantage:  Microfibers are heat sensitive. Kevlar and Nomex: Kevlar and Nomex are strong, heat resistant, synthetic fibers. These were developed by DuPont in 1965. Kevlar is used for making Bullet Proof Vests and Cut/Heat/Chemical resistant gloves. Nomex is used for making Fireman Uniforms, Racing Apparel.
  • 20. Advantages:  Exceptional Strength.  Exceptional heat and flame resistance.  Resistant to stretch and abrasion. Disadvantages: 1. Not absorbent.