Introduction to Cosmetics formulation and development
- 2. WHAT YOU’LL LEARN • Cosmetic industry • Types of products & formulation forms • Types of raw materials • Testing requirements • Setting up a cosmetic lab Information to make you a better cosmetic chemist
- 4. ALMOST EVERYTHING I LEARNED ABOUT FORMULATING, I LEARNED ON THE JOB AND FROM OTHER FORMULATORS… NOT IN COLLEGE
- 5. You don’t need chemistry degree to learn to formulate… •BUT IF YOU WANT A JOB AS A FORMULATOR, THEN YOU’LL
- 6. BEING A COSMETIC CHEMIST IS GREAT! • Low stress • Inventing • Creative • Learning • Fun! • Actual Impact
- 8. KNOWING THE INDUSTRY WILL HELP YOU START YOUR CAREER, GET FORMULATION IDEAS, & HELP YOU INNOVATE
- 10. Image of hair products HAIR PRODUCTS
- 11. Image of color cosmetics COLOR COSMETICS
- 13. ORAL / PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS • Toothpaste • Mouthwash • Whitening strips • Deodorant • Depilatories
- 14. COSMETIC-TYPE PRODUCTS WITH FDA MONOGRAPHS (OTC) • Restricted Active Ingredients • Restricted Claims
- 15. COSMETIC-TYPE PRODUCTS WITH FDA MONOGRAPHS (OTC) • Sunscreen • Antiperspirant • Skin lightening • Psoriasis treatments • Wart Removers • Anti-acne products • Toothpaste (with fluoride) • Anti-microbial products • Topical Analgesics
- 16. TOP COSMETIC COMPANIE S 2019* 1. L’Oréal 2. Unilever 3. Estée Lauder $30.8 billion $23.6 billion $14.9 billion 4. Procter & Gamble $12.4 billion 5. Shiseido 6. Coty 7. LVMH 8. Beiersdorf 9. J&J 10. Kao $9.9 billion $9.3 billion $6.9 billion $6.7 billion $6.3 billion $5.7 billion * https://www.beautypackaging.com/heaps/ view/6459/1/
- 17. STRONGEST PERSONAL CARE BRANDS • 1) L’OREAL PARIS • 2) COLGATE • 3) GILLETTE • 4) LANCOME • 5) NIVEA • 6) GARNIER • 7) CLINIQUE • 8) DOVE • 9) ESTEE LAUDER • 10) PANTENE PRO V • 11) OLAY • 12) CREST • 13) SHISEIDO • 14) ORAL-B • 15) HEAD AND SHOULDERS * According to Women’s Wear Daily
- 18. TOP COSMETIC BRANDS Emulate Formulas From these brands when you Create Products
- 20. KNOWING THE RAW MATERIALS IS ESSENTIAL INFORMATION FOR YOU TO MAKE COSMETIC FORMULAS
- 21. COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS • Functional • Aesthetic • Claims / Marketing • Found in the INCI Dictionary
- 23. MOST IMPORTANT FUNCTIONAL COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS ● Cleansers Conditioning Agents Colorants Fragrances Active ingredients Film formers ● ● ● ● ●
- 24. AESTHETIC RAW MATERIALS • Solvents • Adjusters • Thickeners • Fragrance • Fillers • Special Effects • Delivery Systems • Preservatives
- 25. CLAIMS INGREDIENTS • Added to support a marketing story • Vitamins • Botanical Extracts • Proteins • Anti-Aging • Advanced technology
- 26. TYPES OF COSMETIC FORMULAS
- 27. KNOWING THE FORMULA TYPES WILL ALLOW YOU TO CREATE PRODUCTS THAT CONSUMERS WANT TO USE
- 28. 8 FORMULATION TYPES ● Solutions Creams Lotions Ointments Powders Gels Sticks Aerosols ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
- 29. 6 STEPS TO CREATING A COSMETIC FORMULA / PRODUCT • Getting set up • Picking a benchmark • Starting formulas • Raw materials • Making prototypes • Testing
- 30. TO FORMULATE YOU NEED TO HAVE THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT
- 31. ESSENTIAL LAB EQUIPMENT • Containers • Weighing equipment • Mixers • Heating & Cooling devices • Lab supplies • Testing equipment
- 32. STEP 2 – PICKING A BENCHMARK Benchmark: A commercial product that approximates your desired product
- 33. FACTORS WHEN CHOOSING A BENCHMARK • Performance characteristics • Aesthetics • Market Popularity • Matches your consumer expectations
- 34. USING A BENCHMARK •QUANTIFY HOW IT WORKS USE THE PRODUCT •NOTE PERFORMANCE DO LAB TESTS CHARACTERISTICS ● ● ● ● ● ● Foam Feel Odor ● ●
- 35. STEP 3 – FINDING A STARTING FORMULA
- 36. WHERE TO GET STARTING FORMULAS ● Chemical suppliers Patents Books Trade journals Ingredient lists LOIs ● ● ● ●
- 37. STEP 4 - COSMETIC RAW MATERIALS
- 38. LEARNING ABOUT RAW MATERIALS • INCI Dictionary • Buyer’s Guide – Happi.com – PCPC buyers guide • Aggregators – ulprospector.com – knowde.com – chemberry.com • Trade shows
- 39. Get in-depth information about How, when & why to use specific cosmetic ingredients https://bit.ly/PCF-raw-materials
- 40. GETTING RAW MATERIALS • Order from supplier • Meet sales people at SCC meetings • Trade shows • Buying ingredients – Amazon – Direct from supplier – eBay
- 41. STEP 5 – MAKING PROTOTYPES
- 42. BASIC PROCEDURE • Largest volume first • Add powders first. • Heat formula • Add liquid ingredients • Mix at high temp 20 min • Cool batch • Below 40C add temp sensitive ingredients • Cool to RT
- 43. Step 6 - Testing Prototypes Knowing how to test cosmetics ensures you make high quality, safe, stable & legal products
- 44. TYPES OF TESTING ● QC / QA pH Viscosity test Odor check Appearance check Stability testing Microbial testing Performance testing ● ● ● ● ● ● ●