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Light and Exposure
    Digital Photography - 2863
The area of visible light is tiny on the entire
    electromagnetic energy spectrum.
The area of visible light is tiny on the entire
    electromagnetic energy spectrum.
This narrow spectrum of visible light is what your
       digital camera’s sensor responds to.
This visible spectrum, the light that we see, ranges
between about 400 and 700 nanometers in wavelength.
Light and exposure
It is possible to take photographs using infrared radiation.
Minor White
Barns and Clouds
      1955
Minor White used infrared film, but digital
 photographers can use an infrared filter.




            Road with Poplar Trees, 1955
Infrared filters block all
visible light rays and let in
only infrared radiation to
react with your sensor.

You will need a long
exposure time - usually
more than a second in
daylight even at your
widest aperture - to get
satisfactory results.
What is “Exposure?”

    Exposure = Intensity x Time
Intensity is the amount of light that
reaches the light sensor

Intensity is controlled by the aperture

Time is the length of time the sensor is
exposed to the light

Time is controlled by the shutter speed
In order to get a good exposure, you must be
  able to ascertain the amount of light that is
              hitting your subject.
In order to “read” the amount of light striking your subject,
     you need some type of exposure or light meter.
There are two basic
 kinds of exposure
      meters:

 There are external,
 hand held meters...
and meters
built right into
your camera
Some exposure meters read the light that is
       reflected off your subject.
Other exposure meters, called incident-light meters
measure the amount of light falling on the meter itself.
A hand-held exposure meter can be one that
 measures either reflected or incident light.
In your camera,
the meter is called
a through-the-lens,
(TTL) meter and
usually measures
the overall light
level.
When coupled
with your camera
the meter
calculates what
aperture and
shutter speed will
produce an overall
light level that
equals middle gray.
In more sophisticated cameras, you can set the
    controls to do more precise metering.
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Of course, how you hold the meter depends on
       the type of meter you are using.
In order to get the best results
   with your digital camera, it is
 advisable to learn to interpret
 the camera readings or meter
    readouts of your particular
                         camera.
One of the ways your camera helps you judge whether you are
  making a good exposure is by showing you histograms.
A histogram is a graph that shows the brightness values of all the
                       pixels in an image.
0              128            255

 Histograms show a range of 0 to 256.
    White is at the right at the 255.
         Black is at the left at 0.
Middle gray is shown in the middle at 128.
Black      Middle Gray      White


The graph shows how much of each tone is
       captured in the photograph.
In this histogram, you can see that most of the
  tones fall in the middle or medium range.
   There are few highlights and few shadows.
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
There are several
 ways to use the
meter built in to
  your camera.
Method 1:
Using a gray card
Gray cards can be
purchased at any
 camera store.
To use a gray card, hold the card up to the
   subject you are about to photograph.
Make sure the card fills the entire viewfinder.
Remember to capture all of the gray card when
       getting your meter readings.
With your camera set to auto or program, let
  the in-camera meter suggest a possible
                exposure.
Then change your camera mode to manual and
choose the settings or their equivalent before
            taking your picture.
“equivalent?”

   more on that later...
Using a gray card
works well under
studio conditions.
A gray card is 18% gray.
If you are ever in a landscape situation without a gray card, you
can use grass or green tree leaves to meter. They are very close
                       to the 18% gray value.
Also, in a pinch, you can meter off your hand.
            Just be sure to use your palm.
      The back of your hand is usually darker.
(Obviously, this method depends on your skin tone.)
Method 2:
Using Histograms
First, you must set your camera to display the
  histogram right after you have taken your
                    picture.
Then after taking your first shot, check the
 histogram to see if you have good tonal
                 coverage.
Adjust your exposure (either the shutter speed
or the aperture) manually and then retake the
                  picture.
Reading a histogram takes some practice.
But it can ultimately be more informative than
the actual photo that shows on your camera’s
                    monitor.
Simplified Histograms




Each of these
photographs is
correctly exposed
for the subject.
Method 3:
Metering for Specific Situations
Exposing an Average
       Scene
What is an
“average scene?”
“average scene?”
one where all the different tones when
averaged together will equal a middle gray.
one where the scene is evenly illuminated
as viewed from the camera position.
one where the darks and lights are
distributed fairly evenly around the scene.
Light and exposure
Alec Soth
Charles, Vasa, Minnesota
2002
Light and exposure
Would
  you
consider
 this an
average
 scene?
Light and exposure
Exposing a Scene
 that is Lighter or
Darker than Average
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
Light and exposure
When you know the scene is mostly dark, you
  will need to adjust your exposure with care,
stopping down the exposure to catch the areas
                     of light.
Light and exposure
When metering for high contrast, do a substitute reading if you
 cannot get close enough to the main subject to get a close
                         reading.
Remember: digital
cameras are more prone
  to clipping in the light
   areas than in the dark,
    so if in doubt, slightly
 overexpose rather than
    underexpose a digital
              photograph.

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Light and exposure

  • 1. Light and Exposure Digital Photography - 2863
  • 2. The area of visible light is tiny on the entire electromagnetic energy spectrum.
  • 3. The area of visible light is tiny on the entire electromagnetic energy spectrum.
  • 4. This narrow spectrum of visible light is what your digital camera’s sensor responds to.
  • 5. This visible spectrum, the light that we see, ranges between about 400 and 700 nanometers in wavelength.
  • 7. It is possible to take photographs using infrared radiation.
  • 8. Minor White Barns and Clouds 1955
  • 9. Minor White used infrared film, but digital photographers can use an infrared filter. Road with Poplar Trees, 1955
  • 10. Infrared filters block all visible light rays and let in only infrared radiation to react with your sensor. You will need a long exposure time - usually more than a second in daylight even at your widest aperture - to get satisfactory results.
  • 11. What is “Exposure?” Exposure = Intensity x Time
  • 12. Intensity is the amount of light that reaches the light sensor Intensity is controlled by the aperture Time is the length of time the sensor is exposed to the light Time is controlled by the shutter speed
  • 13. In order to get a good exposure, you must be able to ascertain the amount of light that is hitting your subject.
  • 14. In order to “read” the amount of light striking your subject, you need some type of exposure or light meter.
  • 15. There are two basic kinds of exposure meters: There are external, hand held meters...
  • 16. and meters built right into your camera
  • 17. Some exposure meters read the light that is reflected off your subject.
  • 18. Other exposure meters, called incident-light meters measure the amount of light falling on the meter itself.
  • 19. A hand-held exposure meter can be one that measures either reflected or incident light.
  • 20. In your camera, the meter is called a through-the-lens, (TTL) meter and usually measures the overall light level.
  • 21. When coupled with your camera the meter calculates what aperture and shutter speed will produce an overall light level that equals middle gray.
  • 22. In more sophisticated cameras, you can set the controls to do more precise metering.
  • 28. Of course, how you hold the meter depends on the type of meter you are using.
  • 29. In order to get the best results with your digital camera, it is advisable to learn to interpret the camera readings or meter readouts of your particular camera.
  • 30. One of the ways your camera helps you judge whether you are making a good exposure is by showing you histograms.
  • 31. A histogram is a graph that shows the brightness values of all the pixels in an image.
  • 32. 0 128 255 Histograms show a range of 0 to 256. White is at the right at the 255. Black is at the left at 0. Middle gray is shown in the middle at 128.
  • 33. Black Middle Gray White The graph shows how much of each tone is captured in the photograph.
  • 34. In this histogram, you can see that most of the tones fall in the middle or medium range. There are few highlights and few shadows.
  • 38. There are several ways to use the meter built in to your camera.
  • 39. Method 1: Using a gray card
  • 40. Gray cards can be purchased at any camera store.
  • 41. To use a gray card, hold the card up to the subject you are about to photograph. Make sure the card fills the entire viewfinder.
  • 42. Remember to capture all of the gray card when getting your meter readings.
  • 43. With your camera set to auto or program, let the in-camera meter suggest a possible exposure.
  • 44. Then change your camera mode to manual and choose the settings or their equivalent before taking your picture.
  • 45. “equivalent?” more on that later...
  • 46. Using a gray card works well under studio conditions.
  • 47. A gray card is 18% gray.
  • 48. If you are ever in a landscape situation without a gray card, you can use grass or green tree leaves to meter. They are very close to the 18% gray value.
  • 49. Also, in a pinch, you can meter off your hand. Just be sure to use your palm. The back of your hand is usually darker. (Obviously, this method depends on your skin tone.)
  • 51. First, you must set your camera to display the histogram right after you have taken your picture.
  • 52. Then after taking your first shot, check the histogram to see if you have good tonal coverage.
  • 53. Adjust your exposure (either the shutter speed or the aperture) manually and then retake the picture.
  • 54. Reading a histogram takes some practice.
  • 55. But it can ultimately be more informative than the actual photo that shows on your camera’s monitor.
  • 56. Simplified Histograms Each of these photographs is correctly exposed for the subject.
  • 57. Method 3: Metering for Specific Situations
  • 59. What is an “average scene?” “average scene?” one where all the different tones when averaged together will equal a middle gray. one where the scene is evenly illuminated as viewed from the camera position. one where the darks and lights are distributed fairly evenly around the scene.
  • 61. Alec Soth Charles, Vasa, Minnesota 2002
  • 63. Would you consider this an average scene?
  • 65. Exposing a Scene that is Lighter or Darker than Average
  • 71. When you know the scene is mostly dark, you will need to adjust your exposure with care, stopping down the exposure to catch the areas of light.
  • 73. When metering for high contrast, do a substitute reading if you cannot get close enough to the main subject to get a close reading.
  • 74. Remember: digital cameras are more prone to clipping in the light areas than in the dark, so if in doubt, slightly overexpose rather than underexpose a digital photograph.